You've found the famous Dave's Garden website! Join this friendly global community that shares tips and ideas for home and gardens, along with seeds and plants!
Check out the DG homepage for a brief overview of what you'll find in this gardening mega-site.
Login
If you don't have an account yet, visit the registration page to sign up.
My spigot broke out back , and I cant replace it because its so old and stuck on ( the part that you use to turn it on and off
and I have to replace the whole part)
was wondering if anyone had an idea on what I could do to replace or get it off without breaking the pipe coming out of the wall.
I replace my outside faucet recently. It went through the brick wall and connected to a tee under the kitchen sink. I was able to hold the tee with one wrench and turn the pipe going outside with another wrench. Some outside faucets connect to the plumbing under bathroom sinks. If it is your lucky day it may be one of these connections. If it connects to a tee or elbow inside of a wall,I'd check with a plumber.
If the supply line is copper, it might be a challenge. If galvanized, it should be easy to replace the hose bib.
I failed to remove the hose when we had a house in CO. It took a plumber to replace the part. It was a freeze-resistant one, not freeze-proof, but still the actual valve was about 14 inches into the basement - and soldered to the copper supply line. I have lots of tools and know how to use them, but did not want to work with a torch against old wood joists to remove and replace that one. Even the plumber asked for a pan of water and an old towel to wet things before he started - still scorched the wood, but at least did not burn the house down.
Here in Houston, I have always had galvanized pipes, so never a problem with replacing them. Two pipe wrenches and you are in business.
Be sure to turn off the supply and drain the line if possible, and keep some towels handy anyway.
The hose bib is probably soldered to the supply line. You will need to heat it enough to remove it.
This will require a propane torch - a solder gun does not generate enough heat - the copper will disipate it too quickly. The replacement will requite thouroughly cleaning the supply of all remaining solder, then applying some flux. I would lightly sand the copper the copper with some emory cloth or steel wool before applying the flux.
Also clean the connecting end of the hose bib - you don't want to have to start over because the solder did not make a complete seal.
Soldering copper connections is a learned skill. You want the solder to draw into the joint. Too little or too much heat will not work. The parts need to be hot, don't heat the solder itself - it should flow because of the heated copper.
If you have not done this type of soldering, buy several connectors and a length of copper pipe and experiment.
Nothing like experience to teach you.
There are some well engineered alternatives to soldering your pipes. Check your local hardware store or plumbing specialty shop, or even one of the big boxes(Lowes,HomeDepot) for available options. The fittings I am referring to use a mechanical seal, either brass or rubber, to connect same size pipes together. They have been called Dresser couplings, compression fittings, and various other trade names. Not for purist, but they do an adequate job. Just cut off the water supply, cut out the old and splice in the new with some wrenches.