| Author | Content |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 08, 2009
03:32 PM Post #6923267
| My previously healthy tomato plants have, in the last week, developed extensive brown, crinkly leaves (moving up from the bottom to mid-plant by now) and even worse, soft brown disfiguring spots on the green tomatoes themselves. Nothing is really ripe yet (very wet and cool June & July.) They are several heirlooms (raised from seed) in the ground and next to each other and almost all have developed this problem, which looks like it's moving rapidly up towards the top of each plant.
My five tomatoes in Earth Boxes (away from the affected plants) are still fine. Only the EB Stupice is ripe yet, but these five seem to have only the usual minor yellowing of the leaves at the very bottom of the vine.
What is this, and what do I do now? Pull up and discard the affected vines? ;-(
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
Ray_Der_Phan
Oceanside, CA
(Zone 10a)
August 09, 2009
12:16 AM Post #6924970
| That is so sad to look at. I'm sorry CCG. Without seeing the plant, I would guess LB. shame :(
Spray your toms in EBs immediately.
|
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 09, 2009
08:04 AM Post #6925377
| Thanks, Ray. I have now looked up Late Blight photos on the Web, and that's what I've got, all right.
Thanks for the response, and for the advice about spraying the apparently healthy toms in my EBs ASAP. I garden organically, and the only preventatives listed seem to be Serenade and something using copper. I'll go by my local Agway to get more information.
I thought I was "protected" against LB because my toms were all grown from seed, but the prolonged wet weather must have been the perfect "nursery" for spores that blew in from elsewhere. And I wasn't maintaining a vigilant preventative spraying program against it because I thought I was immune! NOT! |
adapa
North Conway, NH
August 16, 2009
07:11 PM Post #6954200
| The pictures look like my tomato plants also. I'm in the area affected by Late Blight.
What is the spray EB? |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 17, 2009
01:10 AM Post #6955386
|
| Quoted: | | What is the spray EB? |
Hi Adapa: By "EB" I meant Earth Boxes. Sorry for the confusing initials.
If you want to see a further discussion of the tomato blight problem, go to the thread below.
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1025016/ |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 17, 2009
08:50 AM Post #6955922
| there are threads describing LB .. check the vines - they frequently have blackening from blight as well. I will try to find the link to help you diagnose.
if you di spray, I used ortho disease control and have had no issues this year... people in NY are having a horrific time.
-joe- |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 17, 2009
08:55 AM Post #6955935
| http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1025016/
a good discussion on blight... i am still looking for the disease id chart
-joe- |
Foodee
London
United Kingdom
August 17, 2009
10:44 AM Post #6956390
| I cant seem to find how to start a 'new thread' but would like to know whether I can still eat/cook the tomatoes from a plant that has something (possibly) wrong with it! I found about a 4" black piece of stem and some odd looking leaves on one plant, although the tomatoes themselves looked just fine. There were two similar possibly infected plants so I have got rid of them, but am still wondering whether the fruit is edible? |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 17, 2009
11:03 AM Post #6956482
| I don't see why not. if the tomatoes are sick they would show signs even after you pick them.. after a day or so.
someone has a thread here.
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1022067/
if you need to start a thread go to the main page of beginner vegetables. scroll all the way down and the form is at the bottom. fill out the subject and than your post. hit the preview button than post it...
either way.. I have never had a problem eating tomatoes off a sick plant.. if I get a sick tomato, I cut off the bad part and if the inside looks good - it's off to dinner! - if it has late blight the tomato will die on your windowsill in a two or three days.. take all the fruit (even the green ones) if you are pulling out your plants.. most tomatoes will ripen on the windosill.. be as sure as you can before pulling the plants out.
-joe- |
Foodee
London
United Kingdom
August 17, 2009
12:17 PM Post #6956823
| Thank you very much for the advice. I'm not sure whether it is tomato blight exactly - the plants may have had 'something' though I'm not quite sure what. I kept the tomatoes outside in a separate bag for a couple of days and I've cut a couple open, and they seem just fine. Fingers crossed! Thanks again. |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 17, 2009
01:19 PM Post #6957052
| i will try to find this link I have .. it has pictures of every disease...
|
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 17, 2009
01:24 PM Post #6957071
| http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/diagnostickeys/To...
found it.. it is dry but comprehensive...
(some things i can never figure out ) if it is just the leaves, I usually let them go and just pull off the dying ones. your problem is fruit .. i'd start spraying.
this one is a little easier but less comprehensive
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproble... |
adapa
North Conway, NH
August 17, 2009
11:39 PM Post #6959421
| Thanks JJ & Capecod
Thanks for the link to the other thread, Capecod. Unfortunately I'm not a subscribing member yet. (yep, I'm a n00b)
The problems I'm having most closely resemble LateBlight. The conclusive pics are the ones of Green tomataos, both in the pic & my tomatos are rotting from the stem.
At what point is trying to save the plant hopeless? I've got 7 close together, most of them seem to be a loss. All tho there are some unaffected stems & green tomato's.
4 other plants are farther away & have considerably more foliage left. On the 4 plants, I've trimmed the brown & yellow stems off & spayed with a fungicide spray recommended by the local extension office. I don't remember the name.
|
Foodee
London
United Kingdom
August 18, 2009
06:16 AM Post #6959888
| JJconcepts - thanks very much for the links. I think if I have got tom. blight - it's fairly mild but I got rid of a few plants, just in case. The other plants seem to be ok, though I'm keeping an eye on them. I picked the fruit from the plants I pulled up, left them in a bowl and after a few days they seem just fine. I'd always thought tomatoes were so easy! |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 18, 2009
08:40 AM Post #6960229
| Fodee, you are doing a great job.. and tomatoes are easy. What we have is an extreme case this year, like the swine flu - in that once in a blue moon something comes along and is crazy- at least that is what is happening in the northeast U.S... well. being that you are in the U.K. you have similar issues that will occasionally pass thru. you do have to care for the soil like it is your child (sounds funny) if you care for it, organically or not, all your crops will seem 'easy' and be extremely rewarding.
|
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 18, 2009
08:51 AM Post #6960253
| Adapa.. great to meet you. ... We are very wet in New England this year - and there is a lot of hype for late blight... justified, but be sure that is what you have because unless plants are too far gone they can and will rebound or reproduce. EXCEPT for late Blight (i am sure there are others, i am speaking from experience - not education) if your plants are yellowing, it may not be late blight - look at the stems - they may turn grey before they get a chance to yellow with LB. yellowing can be too much rain or early blight, or a host of others. If you have Late blight the responsible thing is to pull the plants and toss them into regular garbage so they never see the light of day again.
Keep spraying.. spray the soil as well and be sure to spray after each rain.
good luck - I hope you get to harvest something during this unusually wet year.
-joe- |
adapa
North Conway, NH
August 19, 2009
07:48 AM Post #6963957
| Thanks for your kind words JJ. No, there is no graying, just browning of the stems, rot on the stem end of some tomatoes and a progressive browning of the foliage in a pattern exactly like the LB pictures.
If it is LB and some plants only moderately effected, can I aggressively trim the browned leaves & spray according to the directions. Or are all the tom's a loss?
Also, after spraying the soil can I plant another crop, say of carrots? or should I let it sit for a while?
I've had this small (10'x20') garden for 10 years with occasional success. Actually this year was shaping up to be a very successful year. I've got exceptionally well draining soil despite all the massive amounts of organic matter I've added over the years. My beans, peas, cuks & summer sq have been *very* productive.
This message was edited Aug 19, 2009 6:50 AM |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 19, 2009
08:35 AM Post #6964081
| it is my understanding that LB will devastate everything and spread for miles.. It is also my understanding that the disease gets inside the plants and therefore you will most likely be unable to recover.. I have been spraying diligently since the warnings came out..and am still having some issues due to the rain. many others.. especially in NY state have seen total losses. I am not a botanist by any means - just lucky sometimes. if Carolyn or some of the other knowledgeable users stops by this thread - they have been extremely helpful to everyone in Identification of diseases and there are several others who can give you advice to hang your hat on .
if you leave them in and it is LB - you may lose every tomato and possibly potatoes as well. If it isn't LB you (in my experience) you have a shot. My guess - reading about how fast LB moves.. If you still have plants in a few days it might be something else...by no means is that advice .. i am just calling it a guess. |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 19, 2009
01:59 PM Post #6965193
| JJ, that aggie-horticultural thread with photos that you listed was really helpful. Thanks. I'm bookmarking it for future reference in my garden.
The responses to my question on the other DG thread (which you cited above) helped me decide that I actually had a severe case of Early Blight plus leaf wilt. I didn't have the tell-tale LB blackened spots on the stems. But I still had 30 plants in all that were so decimated that I decided to pull them up anyway. ;-(
Still have five 'maters in Earth boxes that I am nursing along (pulling off leaves, spraying with Serenade) and I'm getting some ripe toms finally--now that the weather has finally warmed up. But I still have crispy brown leaves and brown fruits developing. Not a good year for tomatoes!
Thanks for all your good advice. |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 19, 2009
04:53 PM Post #6965741
| i didn't even consider a combination of diseases.. I am glad it is working out.. I have a lot going on as well, but the tomatoes keep coming. Just hoping to keep them perky for a few more weeks..
-joe- |
adapa
North Conway, NH
August 19, 2009
05:44 PM Post #6965897
| joe,
I pulled up the worst of the tom's. I'm gonna try the fungicide on the lesser problem plants to see if maybe the problem isn't LB. We'll see, I'm not optimistic.
I've got some of it replanted already with bush beans. I had some seed leftover. ;-) They'll freeze but who knows maybe I can get a harvest. What I really need to find is that package of kale seeds I had a few weeks ago...
We're working up a plan to deal with the clean up/sterilization.
thanks for the advice on the botany of LB! I do need to look into going 'subscriber'
alyssa |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 20, 2009
11:16 AM Post #6968413
| I found subscribing to be immensly useful.. as far as later ceops .. it is late for broccoli for you, beans were a good idea. Peas might make it, but the best - if you have use for them - are root crops like carrots, turnip, swede, parsnips for winter soup and stews. You may be able to get dwarf cabbage but you are right with the kale - i'm not a fan - but some people love it.
keep spraying, I am using otho disease control and it is working out well ..
goog luck and i hope you are inland enough that if this hurricane goes inland your tomatoes will stay up. (i'm on the shore and nervous about a nor'easter like effect)
-joe- |
adapa
North Conway, NH
August 20, 2009
08:42 PM Post #6970301
| thanks for the suggestion of parsnips. I hadn't thought of them. i've got to get some carrot seed anyway I might as well look for parsnips seed too.
I'm well inland, almost in the mountains, zone5a ish in a easy winter. Yeah, the hurricane is worrisome, the last thing the coastal tourist industry or healthy tomato plants need.
Putting my garden to bed this fall will include a healthy dose of fungicide. Along with bleaching my tools & tomato cages. I think I will also add some of the fungicide to my compost heap- just 'cuz.
Good thought to preemptively spray my tomato plants next year. thank you |
jjsgramma
Woodhull, IL
(Zone 5a)
August 21, 2009
09:45 AM Post #6971856
| Hi all, I too have had a tough time with tomatoes. I have many things going on. Japenese beetles, flea beetles, and what I believed to be bacterial leaf spot or blight.
I was told after growing season to solarize my soil by using a tarp or black plastic to cover the garden spot bury the edges and put a couple rocks in middle so it will stay put. Leave on until ready to start next spring. Supposedly the heat buildup is suppose to kill any spores in the ground.
Nothing to lose so am going to give it a try. Good luck with your toms. So far mine are still alive but been raining so much haven't been able to spray for a couple days that it don't get washed off. I also pull all bad leaves and stems. New leaves keep coming on so haven't pulled any |
adapa
North Conway, NH
August 22, 2009
08:43 AM Post #6975368
| I actually tried solarizing my soil one summer, 2 years ago I think. I wasn't worried about fungus but particularly annoyed about bugs. Plus it was a busy summer & the garden had not been very productive.
It was moderately successful. My lack of success turned out to be a fertilizer problem as apposed to a insect issue.
I do put black plastic over my garden after I put it to bed, primarily to keep acidic pine straw out of my garden. It would be super cool if doing the the plastic would sterilize the soil!
Thanks
This message was edited Aug 22, 2009 7:44 AM |
bookreader451
Waterford, NY
(Zone 5b)
August 23, 2009
06:53 PM Post #6980594
| I am an upstate New Yorker and once I heard about the late blight I started spraying with Bonide Fungonil. I tried to be as organic as I could but this year it is impossible.
At least I have tomatoes. I put in 50 plants I started from seed and cared for more lovingly than I did my DH. If it took fungicide to get tomatoes I was okay with that.
|
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 24, 2009
10:21 PM Post #6985072
|
| Quoted: | | I was told after growing season to solarize my soil by using a tarp or black plastic to cover the garden spot bury the edges and put a couple rocks in middle so it will stay put. Leave on until ready to start next spring. |
Since I pulled up my tomatoes, I am wondering what I should do now to assist my soil for next year. Did you leave the tarp on all winter? Did the soil get hot enough to solarize the soil even in a cold-winter climate?
|
Foodee
London
United Kingdom
August 25, 2009
10:22 AM Post #6986302
| We also have a problem with Blight here in the UK. I have salvaged most of my tomatoes and made lots of chutney (yummy) with them. I found the tomatoes I'd grown in pots seem to be fine, but the ones I'd grown in the garden itself, were suspect - so have bagged them up and watered the soil with Jeyes Fluid and wont grow tomatoes there next year. |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 25, 2009
04:02 PM Post #6987399
|
| Quoted: | | so have bagged them up and watered the soil with Jeyes Fluid and wont grow tomatoes there next year. |
What solution of Jeyes fluid to water do you use to disinfect your soil? I've been reading about JF on the internet, and have found various opinions about whether it is bad for worms. |
jjsgramma
Woodhull, IL
(Zone 5a)
August 28, 2009
05:00 PM Post #6998862
| CCGardener I was told to leave tarp on all winter and that even with our cold temps it will get hot enough under the tarp. Don't know if it works this will be first year to try it. Figured it couldn't hurt anything.
Good Luck |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 28, 2009
09:09 PM Post #6999675
| Good luck to you, too. jjsgramma. I'm very tempted to do the tarp thing with my veggie garden. Usually I sow winter rye for a green manure crop over the winter, but I'm nervous this year since I had such a bad case of Early Blight--maybe solarizing my garden under a tarp would be a good thing. |
cptspanky
Pine City, NY
August 29, 2009
05:45 PM Post #7002347
| isn't it airborne though? |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 29, 2009
09:14 PM Post #7002982
|
| Quoted: | Early blight control is based on crop rotation, removal and destruction of crop debris from previous crops, staking, mulching, and timely application of fungicides.
Staking and mulching are important in an early blight control program, since staking keeps foliage and fruit from contacting the soil surface, and mulching cuts down on "soil splash" onto lower parts of the plant. Since soil particles often contain the early blight fungus, this is a good way of keeping the fungus from invading plants. |
Cptspanky, I wasn't sure about what caused Early Blight, so I looked it up on the Net. This source indicates that the EB fungus can come from soil particles. |
cptspanky
Pine City, NY
August 30, 2009
01:11 PM Post #7004889
| wow thanks! guess I missed that.. good thing to think about for next spring
|
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
August 31, 2009
08:17 AM Post #7007757
| it would seem, from my experience that is is airborne and settles on or in the soil. the plants are generally affected from the bottom and it works it's way up. I planted a new area on the other side of the house where there was only grass.. tomatoes still showed signs. With fungicide, I am having a very productive year. A gentleman from ct. dept. of agriculture came today to test my chickens. He has seen at least half of the people he visited (residences) lost everything. |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
August 31, 2009
10:01 AM Post #7008126
| JJ, that makes sense--that the funguses arrive in the air and can settle in the soil.
I staked my in-ground tomatoes AND used black plastic mulch underneath them (watering by drip) and still they were so badly affected that I had to pull them up, which is an indication that the diseases arrived via air. Planting mine too close together in a very wet summer just made it worse.
Wonder how long the fungus stays in the soil particles? A season? A year? |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 01, 2009
03:12 PM Post #7013649
| i have been growing for years... I learned to work with it.. most years get dry much earlier. I water only in july and august 1 time per week. I will always lose some lower parts of the plants but that is usually all i lose. when the diseases get bad every fer years i spray regularly until it dries up and again and in the following spring I spray the soil--- things clear up pretty well for 4-5 years after that |
cptspanky
Pine City, NY
September 02, 2009
09:58 AM Post #7016840
| So how did my upside down plants get it if it comes from the ground up? just curious :)
-Dave |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 02, 2009
12:57 PM Post #7017484
| spores are airborne.. I don't know the pathology... do you know what in fact they got? My personal devils are EB and grey mold. |
cptspanky
Pine City, NY
September 02, 2009
02:35 PM Post #7017869
| I don't know the exact name... but I do know I lost 13 tomato plants :( 3 hung and the rest in the ground |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 02, 2009
02:40 PM Post #7017882
| wow.. i would keep a bottle of fungicide in mind.. some years, like this one , that is all you can do.. sorry for the loss. many diseases will overwinter. again, i don't know what or how - but tomatoes shouldn't be too complicated and sometimes you gotta spray them or take the loss.. |
jjsgramma
Woodhull, IL
(Zone 5a)
September 03, 2009
06:51 PM Post #7022645
| I don't know for sure what mine got keep pulling off bad leaves and spraying. I have one that is almost leafless.LOL
Planted two in pots, left on cement patio next to house and there is not one leaf bad on either of them and they have never been sprayed with anything. So whatever it is it has to be in the soil I would think.
leafless plant
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
fruiteater
Almont, MI
September 08, 2009
03:15 PM Post #7041037
| Hi.
I'm not sure if I have the same problem . See the pic below . I live in Michigan and 3 days ago I had nice and healthy tomatoes. Today at least 6 of my plants are sporting brown spots and some have holes. The one with holes has a brownish worm inside , but I'm assuming that first came the fungus which weakened the fruit and that how the worm got in. Any idea on what I have ?
So far only affected are Romas and Rutgers.
Help to identify the problem please
Correction: Worm was in one tomato. I just opened others to see if they all contained them - No...There is a white fungus on the inside of brown spots and some tiny brown spots (not sure what they are )
This message was edited Sep 8, 2009 2:27 PM
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 09, 2009
08:36 AM Post #7043508
| you two should get over to the tomato forum... they are excellent pics... carolyn over in tomatoes is an expert.. and more than fantastic with pathology.
i hope it is not too late for the rest of your harvest. I have never seen anything like that... are the tomatoes actually ripening on the charlie brown plant?
wow.. post the pic on the tomato forum asap. |
jjsgramma
Woodhull, IL
(Zone 5a)
September 09, 2009
03:14 PM Post #7044838
| Yes they are. And they taste really good. I have more than I know what to do with and am supplying a couple other people with tomatos also. There are even new leaves starting to come out.
I am not a subscriber. Trying to decide if I want to now or wait until next sprng. My growing season is coming to an end.
Thanks for the interest and if they would like to come over to this forum I will appreciate any and all advice.
Thanks |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 09, 2009
03:23 PM Post #7044870
| There is a lot of great subscribers and a wealth of information. Almost any question is answered within a few hours, most often by someone with a great deal of experience.. mostly, there is a kind of reward when you become confident enough to help someone out. I enjoy being a subscriber.. I will dig up two links that have helped a few people sort out the disease or disorder. you should be able to pick a few leaves or stems and match them up to the pictures to find out what you have and how to fix it. |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 09, 2009
03:27 PM Post #7044877
| actually, i posted them earlier.. if you havn't seen them here they are.. i fixed the links.. the earlier ones had spelling errors on my part.
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/To...
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproble... |
jjsgramma
Woodhull, IL
(Zone 5a)
September 09, 2009
03:35 PM Post #7044893
| Thank you very much |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 09, 2009
03:39 PM Post #7044907
| I hope it is of some help and good luck. if they are producing, they will usually heal in my experience.
-joe- |
Jim41
Delhi, LA
September 12, 2009
09:16 PM Post #7057307
| Carolyn wrote in another post that you need to spray tomatoes with daconil from the time you set them out on a scheduled basis with an occasiona copper spray. Will definitly give that a try next season. |
bookreader451
Waterford, NY
(Zone 5b)
September 12, 2009
09:29 PM Post #7057366
| all of my neighbors lost their tomatoes this year but as soon as I read about the blight I started spraying with Bonide Funginol. I have tiny tomatoes due to the weather but I have tomatoes!
I would love to be organic but I am a realist. I would rather wash the tomatoes and take my chances than not have tomatoes at all.
|
jjsgramma
Woodhull, IL
(Zone 5a)
September 12, 2009
09:40 PM Post #7057403
| JJconcepts I checked out the links thank you.
And I subscribed and posted on the tomato forum.
Carolyn seemed to think it was a septoria leaf spot.
They are producing well so I keep picking them and it has helped since it has stopped raining and I can spray without raining the next day.
Jim did you see my bald plants? |
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)
September 13, 2009
04:07 PM Post #7059681
| Welcome, jjsgramma, to being a subscriber to DG! I've never seen anyone's request for information and help be ignored on the forums.
Jjconcepts, that aggie-hort site with photos is priceless.
Yesterday, I pulled up the last of my few remaining tomato plants--the ones in the EarthBoxes--that had managed to avoid the very worst of the early blight. But by now the vines were just too bald ; no new tomatoes were forming and the ones still on the vine mostly had ugly brown lesions. In previous seasons I've been harvesting tomatoes into November! Not this year.
For the last several weeks I've been driving around and peering jealously into other people's veggie patches to see how THEIR 'maters are doing. I've seen a lot of bad looking (like mine) vines and some that seem to have avoided disease. There's a all-organic community garden near me, and I noticed that one person's vines look good and are still bearing. The difference is that he had affixed a little windmill to blow on his tomatoes. I'm wondering if the movement of air may have helped his plants stay healthier. I know I planted mine too close together.
Either that or he was spraying with Funginol secretly at midnight LOL!
|
Jim41
Delhi, LA
September 13, 2009
10:59 PM Post #7061366
| I saw your baldy tomatoes, jjs. Mine to that to some degree, every year. Usually starts at the bottom and follows production up to the top. Doesn't seem to effect my tomatoes, so I don't worry about it. If I have time I cut the dead stems off. Mainly have this on the 444's I plant. I just thought it was a characteristic of the variety. Guess not. Already made up my mind to start using Daconil weekly from the time of planting with an application of copper spray occasionally. |
jjconcepts
Milford, CT
(Zone 6a)
September 14, 2009
08:32 AM Post #7062244
| I have been using the ortho disease spray with the daconil weekly and after most every rain.. The results are fantastic, however i got comfortable (lazy) when the nights temp dropped into the 50's and haven't sprayed in two weeks. Sure enough i went out Thursday morning and my tomatoes and squash plants were dying in front of me..yellow, spotty, brown leaves everywhere.. I immediately picked up the sprayer and the problems receded some and it looks as though i will be fine to harvest the full season! I feel for those that had a lot of problems, like bookreader, organic is great - tomatoes filling my freezer is better!
Glad the links helped and Welcome to daves; jj's gramma!
-joe-
|
jjsgramma
Woodhull, IL
(Zone 5a)
September 14, 2009
06:34 PM Post #7064315
| Thanks Joe.
Jim mine will be getting sprayed at the beginning as well. But I still have two in pots on the patio that look great. I think they are coming in the house later!! |
