| Author | Content |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 02, 2009
04:24 PM Post #7234461
| I edged a bunch of flannel blankets recently using the "serger stitch" on my regular sewing machine... that worked OK, but I'm thinking that a real serger would do a better job and be much faster.
With a new baby, I think there will be more blankets and the like in my future (especially now that my sewing machine is uncovered again). I'll probably be using it more for edging than for finishing seams, but who knows, maybe I will start getting ambitious and move beyond straight-line sewing. LOL
What features should I look for? Are there brands that are especially good?
I'd really appreciate any advice, recommendations, links, etc.
THANKS! |
TxBelle326
Dallas, TX
November 02, 2009
05:28 PM Post #7234636
| I have a Babylock Imagine that I love. It is very easy to thread (a frequent complaint with other sergers) and works like a charm over several layers of thick fabric. Wherever you decide to buy, be sure to sit down and thread it yourself so that you know that you can do it.
HTH
Linda |
Qwilter
Severn, MD//Flem Is,, FL
(Zone 9a)
November 02, 2009
05:35 PM Post #7234661
| Kenmore... |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 02, 2009
05:43 PM Post #7234692
| Thanks, Linda! That's a great tip about trying to thread it before purchasing, too.
Hey, about those huge spools I see on sergers... I understand that overlock edges can take enormous amounts of thread, but if I'm just doing a little project can I use a "regular" spool of thread rather than one of those big cones? Or will I just be buying big cones of thread from now on? |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 02, 2009
06:02 PM Post #7234761
| I've been reading up on different brands and models for the last little bit... A lot of them sound like they've got a pretty steep learning curve, so I guess I'm particularly looking for recommendations for an easy, introductory model.
I can't imagine that I'd need 8 threads, and my current machine is nice for decorative sewing... I really just want something that will make a nice, quick overcasting stitch that looks like satin stitching around the edge of a blanket, table runner, etc.
Thanks! |
Qwilter
Severn, MD//Flem Is,, FL
(Zone 9a)
November 02, 2009
06:09 PM Post #7234789
| I've had my 4 needle Kenmore for @15 years. It does a rolled edge and normal serging.
Serger thread is finer than normal sewing thread and comes off the spool smoother. |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 02, 2009
06:28 PM Post #7234843
| Thanks, Qwilter, that explains those special cones of serger thread.
I'm definitely a newbie at this, so I appreciate everybody's patience! |
JoParrott
Richland, WA
(Zone 5b)
November 02, 2009
08:43 PM Post #7235345
| I use serger thread a lot for regular sewing- I get mine when Joann's has it on half price- you can get a big cone for about the same as a spool of regular thread, and it lasts forever! I even use it for machine embroidery when I want a matte look. You just have to clean out fuzz more often than with polyester thread. I have several big cones of wooly nylon to use for edging fleece projects. You can get those very cheap at longcreekmills.com in fact they sell all types of thread at reasonable prices. |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 02, 2009
08:57 PM Post #7235400
| ooh, another great tip... thanks! I've been eyeing the fleece lately, too. :-) |
jumper2
Huron, OH
(Zone 5b)
November 02, 2009
09:30 PM Post #7235533
| I have a Huskylock 4 thread. It can be used 3 or 4 thread. I mainly finish seams with it, but it makes a nice rolled hem as well.
Whatever you do, TEST DRIVE!
This message was edited Nov 2, 2009 8:31 PM |
bloomheaven
South, LA
(Zone 8b)
November 02, 2009
10:13 PM Post #7235686
| I have a Juki that's about 11-12 years old. I love it and I have used it mainly for making fleece blankets. I use basic colored threads like white, black, and navy and tie the new thread color to the old thread color and slowly run it through the machine so it automatically changes the thread colors. Usually all I have to do is re-thread the needles and sometimes I don't even have to do that. I love mine. I used it for other things when I first got it, I was doing regular sewing then, but since that time I have used it pretty much exclusively for fleece blankets. My family loves them and every year it seems like I'm making new LSU blankets to give away as gifts. I just take a plate and round off the corners of the fabric with a marker and serge away, a super fast gift. I can make them in about 15 minutes.
As far as features I would look only for what I'm planning to use it for, that's just my opinion though. No use paying a lot for other features you're not going to use. You should be able to get a basic model that does what you need for a reasonable price. I haven't looked into them in so long, I used to work in a fabric store so I was on top of things, but it's been a while. Mine is not computerized and doesn't have any kind of special features. I've made napkins, veils, craft projects, blankets, scarves, and clothing projects. I've never lacked anything on it. I just adjust the settings between fine rolling and blanket stitches. When I bought it I got a good quality basic machine, I probably bought better than I needed, I think I always tend to do that lol. It's always so boggling for me to make purchases like that, too many thoughts about what I can do with it.
As for thread you can use regular sewing thread, but it is different than serger thread. I can't remember if it's coated or if it's made of a different material, but it's texture is different than serger thread. Serger thread is kind of more fuzzy and not as tight as regular sewing thread. I found when I use regular thread on my serger that I have to adjust the tension a little because it runs tighter on my fabric and makes it pucker. Since I don't like to fiddle with the tension I usually buy the basic colors of serger thread and use that unless I'm making something special. Serger's use a lot of thread, a whole lot of thread. So unless it is a small project, then you need like the 2 big spools of regular thread and 2 small if you're using regular thread. Now if you are going to be serging a lot in a certain color then it's worth it to buy the 4 spools of serger thread. If not then I think it looks just as good to go with black or white. It's a contrast and looks nice. Some people are finicky about thread. I like it to look nice and have been known to buy the regular thread for matching, but for space and cost preferences I try to use what I have as long as it looks good. I'm sure you'll be needing the pink though :) Off topic - - You should look in the craft sections of pattern books, they have tons of fun things for little ones, or used to. I made tons of these pillow animals when I was sewing a lot, they were a big hit. The pattern I had made the cutest dinosaur pillow buddies. The body fit a regular sized pillow and had a detachable head and tail with velcro. So cute and easy. I used fleece and velour, sold tons of them and gave lots as gifts. I loved to make them.
Hope that helps some :)
|
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 02, 2009
10:20 PM Post #7235722
| Good tip about test driving... I just found out there's a quilt store in town that carries several brands of machines, and they seem to have a lot of floor models.
Bloomheaven, that is a LOT of really useful information -- THANK YOU.
I'm looking for a good basic serger... my "regular" sewing machine does all the fancy computerized stuff, decorative stitching, etc. I'm hoping to spend maybe $100 to $150.
BTW, if anybody reading this thread has a "good basic" machine that's been idle because you bought a better, fancier one and don't use the old one any more... well, if you'd consider selling it, please Dmail me. Thanks! |
abbisgranma
(Marion) Havana, FL
(Zone 8b)
November 02, 2009
11:18 PM Post #7235906
| I go with the Babylock brand. Yes, regular thread can be used on sergers by putting them on the spindles or dropping them in hard plastic cups and then feeding the threads through. No, the bouncing doesn't usually effect the stitching. I would use a polyester threads for the serger as cotton can shred at the speed the sergers work. Everyone is different but the best over all advice, is find a reputable dealer and test drive several brands--you will find one that suits your needs better if you try several.
Hint: Many, many moons ago when I was sent for training to demo, repair and sell Babylocks I was told that I should thread the machine for test drives with different colors so the customer could see how the threads interlock. This helped a great deal with understand the machine better. However, things do change but not the basic workings of a serger. Be sure to ask to see what a rolled hem looks like on each machine you test--will be a huge help if that is what you will be using it for mostly. |
bloomheaven
South, LA
(Zone 8b)
November 02, 2009
11:33 PM Post #7235956
| I agree with your hint! You can see which thread goes where and will answer lots of questions in the long run. Good tip! |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 03, 2009
08:33 AM Post #7236595
| Thanks!
I'm quite curious about how sergers do that overlock stitch, and seeing it in different colors would be really cool.
I'm really glad I came here with my questions... for instance, I hadn't realized that rolled hems was something sergers could do. |
abbisgranma
(Marion) Havana, FL
(Zone 8b)
November 03, 2009
11:03 AM Post #7237020
| Thanks. The rolled hem is what I use the most and why I stick with the Babylock brand of sergers. Others do nice rolled hems but to me I expect a rolled hem to look like they did way back when we were taught to do them by hand (never did learn to do a good job). Each person has their own set of priorities so use all suggestions and good luck.
Incidentally the overcast of the raw edge is done by interactions of the upper looper and lower looper and something as simple as one missed thread placement can change the entire stitch pattern. Thus the reason for the different colored threads. What ever you do---enjoy! |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 03, 2009
04:38 PM Post #7238011
| I think sergers may be more complicated than I think, LOL, but hopefully the time savings will make learnign the how-to worthwhile.
A lot of online stores won't give prices, but it looks like sergers run anywhere from $100 to ten times that much...
Should I be able to buy a good entry level machine for under $200, do you think? I'm willing to pay more to get one that's easy to thread, etc., because if I don't use it then it's not worth much to me. But I don't want to pay more for additional features (like decorative stitching, cording, etc.) that my other machine does just fine.
|
JoParrott
Richland, WA
(Zone 5b)
November 03, 2009
05:55 PM Post #7238265
| If I were you I would go to a local sewing machine dealer and see if they have any used sergers. I have bernina that I paid $2000 about 10 years ago, and it doesn't even have an automatic threader. I do like it but I paid way too much for it.If you are not very familiar with different sewing machines, I would definitely go for a self threader. With 3 or 4 threads, when one needs to be rethreaded you have to start with #1 again, since there is a sequence that has to be followed.(at least mine is that way) But I promise you will love it- I use the rolled hem a lot to make napkins with. Happy hunting! |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 03, 2009
07:36 PM Post #7238642
| Thanks, Jo!
I can thread most regular sewing machines with ease, although I do love how easy my Janome is to thread... but it looks like sergers are a whole new level of confusion! |
gardenglory
Gainesville, FL
(Zone 9a)
November 03, 2009
07:52 PM Post #7238690
| Buying from a shop, you usually get alot of lessons and service...some places for life. For me, even paying a little extra is more returned in the things you actually learn you can do/make with your machine. They also have good deals on used machines. Helpful with the more expensive machines. They still give the same service and perks. |
abbisgranma
(Marion) Havana, FL
(Zone 8b)
November 03, 2009
09:19 PM Post #7238969
| Please, don't think they are all that complicated--actually a very simple machine once you understand the workings. As stated earlier they do have to be threaded in a correct sequence. Most start with the lower looper (far right thread); the upper looper (next thread from the right) then the needles. Most all do the stitches you mention as part of the machine even the very inexpensive ones. The newer models have various feet to use whereas some of the older ones it is a technique you learn after much use.
Again find a reliable dealer, test drive and remember no question is silly, the more ask the better you will be a making a decision. |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 03, 2009
11:05 PM Post #7239390
| Thanks!
I really appreciate everyone's advice & encouragement.
:-) |
LadyLondon
Baton Rouge, LA
November 07, 2009
09:59 PM Post #7251801
| Hello all!
I am also looking for a serger. In the midst of researching which one may be right for me, I found I'm looking for a machine that does a cover stitch as I plan on making activewear for the family. I had no idea that not all machines do this, which brings me to my question(s.)
Do most people use their serger for constructing and cover stitch or usually one or the other? I've read that it could be quite troublesome to change the machine over to cover stitch and back to regular serging. Or is there a machine that makes it easy? Since I am on a budget - $200-$300, I will be looking for a used machine and probably won't be top-of-the-line... any suggestions on brand/model? Also, are there sergers that primarily do cover stitch that may be less expensive?
Hopefully this isn't a confusing mess of questions. I just don't know that much about them. I've asked a couple of friends who don't have cover stitch machines so they weren't much help. I also asked a local dealer... apparently I had the wrong person because she doesn't even sew.
Thanks for any help and suggestions.
Cheers |
JoParrott
Richland, WA
(Zone 5b)
November 07, 2009
10:35 PM Post #7251905
| I have a Bernina 2000DCE which does cover stitch. I have never had any luch with it. It takes 2 needles, and when 1 thread breaks it messes the entire line of stitching. I paid $2000 for it about 10 years ago- don't know what they are like now, but I really don't think you could touch one for that low range. I saw one on Sewitsforsale a few days ago, used for $500. And yes, it is a hassle to switch from serging to cover stitch-my 2 cents worth! |
LadyLondon
Baton Rouge, LA
November 08, 2009
12:10 AM Post #7252090
| Thank you for the info. It will help greatly in my decision... of course price will play a big role too :)
I did not know about sewitsforsale... I just requested membership.
Thanks again! |
siliolegma
Rochester, MI
November 08, 2009
12:21 AM Post #7252112
| In about 1985 I bought a Singer serger from Spiegal catalog. I absolutely love that machine and have really put it through the mill. I have even used it to resize down comforters. A few months ago it went on the fritz and I took it in for repair. I was worried about it getting fixed and so looked on Craigs List. There I found the exact same machine for $50.00 except it had hardly been used. Mine was repaired and is back to being used hard, but it's good to know I have a back up...just in case.
I can no longer quilt because of good ole arthritis, but I do make duvet covers. My machine makes perfect 1/4 in seams and because they aren't hidden away, I like the neat look of them. |
abbisgranma
(Marion) Havana, FL
(Zone 8b)
November 08, 2009
01:03 PM Post #7253133
| LadyLondon, when you refer to the cover stitch are you meaning the flatlock stitch? All sergers do a stitch that covers the cut edges of the fabric using 3-4 threads and up. The flatlock stitch is done using 2 threads and when you fold the material out, the stitching is on top--like fusing to cut edges together side by side. Confused you yet? Yes, if you are referring to the flatlock stitch is can be troublesome to switch back and forth as to do the flatlock stitch you must disengage the upper looper. I use the regular serging stitch to sew active wear using as in sweatshirts, t shirts, and pants. I do have a BabyLock but it was considerable more than the price you stated.
When I refer to the regular serging stitch I mean the stitch that sews and overcast the cut edges all in one process. |
jumper2
Huron, OH
(Zone 5b)
November 08, 2009
01:52 PM Post #7253278
| There is a stitch called a cover stitch that is different than the one mentioned by Marion. Some machines do this and some do not. |
abbisgranma
(Marion) Havana, FL
(Zone 8b)
November 08, 2009
03:04 PM Post #7253434
| Lucy, what does it look like? |
abbisgranma
(Marion) Havana, FL
(Zone 8b)
November 08, 2009
03:27 PM Post #7253490
| Okay, so I researched the "cover" stitch and it is one and the same as far as I can tell from the article and pictures. I learned it as a flatlock. Yes, it can be troublesome but it also depends on the individual and how much sewing they will do using the stitch. |
JoParrott
Richland, WA
(Zone 5b)
November 08, 2009
05:20 PM Post #7253810
| re: cover stitch- I'm posting a photo that should help clear the confusion- the big difference is that Flatlock is done on the edge then when the fabric is opened up flat, there is a ladder stitch on the right side. Cover stitch is NOT done on the edge, and the fabric does not get cut. Instead it is done with 2 needles on the right side, and there is no cutting. 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
abbisgranma
(Marion) Havana, FL
(Zone 8b)
November 08, 2009
05:52 PM Post #7253936
| Right, flatlock (as I learned it) doesn't have to be done on the edge either; can be done by folding the fabric as if doing a blind hem on regular machine. I do admit I learned many many years ago and the terms have changed.
I appreciated the pictures to look at.
This message was edited Nov 8, 2009 4:52 PM |
jumper2
Huron, OH
(Zone 5b)
November 08, 2009
09:40 PM Post #7254575
| Flatlock is different than cover stitch. If you look at the pic, you'll see. Years ago when they first came out with the machines that did cover stitch, I saw it done to put a zipper into a project. The fabric was not folded to acheive it. |
Kizmo
Marietta, OH
(Zone 6a)
November 08, 2009
11:00 PM Post #7254772
| sooo, is one of these stitches used more than the other when sewing? My aunt had 4-5 of these things, I didn't get any of them when she passed, so have not tried one. |
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 09, 2009
12:29 AM Post #7254968
| One of the serger info sites I checked out said that "cover stitch" is what you see on the hem of your t-shirts... it looks like 2 lines of straight stitching, but when you flip it over you also see a ladder-like series of stitches between the 2 lines. |
JoParrott
Richland, WA
(Zone 5b)
November 09, 2009
12:35 PM Post #7256128
| Critter- you hit it on the nose! That's exactly what coverstitch is. And when it works right it is really nice, but one little burp and the row is just about ruined! When I shorten tshirts (often, since I buy men's tshirts at thriftshops a lot)I use my regular sewing with 2 needles. I turn the hem up and sew, then trim close to the stitching after it is done. |
gardenglory
Gainesville, FL
(Zone 9a)
November 09, 2009
12:39 PM Post #7256142
| It was one happy day , the day Mary at the quilt shop turned me on to those double needles for a regular machine. . Perfect for when I was doing this stained glass tuff and you had to sew on seam binding as the outline. To be able to do both sides at once and have them, of course, perfect. A great thing. |
LadyLondon
Baton Rouge, LA
November 09, 2009
10:38 PM Post #7258277
| I have read so much about sergers and stitches in the last few days I think I'm overloaded and now it's all jumbled up. I'm the type that likes to know a lot about something before I make a decision... this could take months! OR - I may toss a coin and purchase the next one I can afford :-)
I take it a lot of people don't actually use cover stitch... and JoParrott never had luck with it anyway. I watched a video on Youtube - converting a huskylock 936 from serging to coverstitch, threading it, then back to serging. It was actually 3 videos - approx. 6 minutes to convert, another 5ish to thread (looked like a real pain), then a few more to convert back. She looked like a novice as well... so that was a little encouraging.
Finally - thank you all for replying with thoughts and opinions. I'll let you know what comes of this.
|
JoParrott
Richland, WA
(Zone 5b)
November 10, 2009
12:06 AM Post #7258693
| Don't get discouraged- a serger is a joy, but you just need to know that they are not real simple to use. I believe you would be very happy with one that does not do the cover stitch.Sergers are great for rolled hems on napkins, and lingerie and fine silky fabrics, as well as finishing seams on garments. Get it from a dealer who will give you the support when you need it. Most of them have used ones for sale. Good luck- don't give up! |
siliolegma
Rochester, MI
November 10, 2009
01:20 AM Post #7258883
| The first time I ever used a serger was in a class. I hated it said I never want one of these. It was several years before I tried again. Now I don't know what I would do without it. I usually take the easy way out in threading...cut old threads leaving about 5 inches of tail at top by spool. Tie on the new color to each thread. Loosen tension and run machine. Most of the time it will thread for you except for needles. Re-do tension, thread needles and you are good to go. I don't find my machine hard to thread though, it's color coded, so if I must can thread pretty quickly. A pair of long tweezers is a must. |
quilter_gal
Arlington, TX
November 10, 2009
02:00 AM Post #7258970
| I found a Babylock 400 on eBay for about $60 or 65 including shipping. It didn't have a manual or all of the attachments, so I bought a manual, a blind hem foot, a rolled hem needle plate and two spare knives and my investment is still only about $100-120.
It's a fantastic little machine with differential feed, free arm, adjustable stitch length and width, it can take two needles and it has a rolled hem function. I think this is really the minimum that you should look for - easy functionality and the extra features that allow you to go beyond finishing seams if you want to. It's very easy to thread and it takes standard 15X1 sewing machine needles, so no special needles to keep track of.
The first serger I bought was a 3-thread Huskylock - beautiful edge, but no ability to alter the stitch length or width, only one needle, no differential to help with knits or special effects - I only used it for a couple of weeks before stepping up to the Babylock. That's why I recommended those "minimum" requirements.
A long pair of curved tip "squeezers" (tweezers that open when you squeeze them and close when you stop) is very helpful in threading the loopers and a twisted wire beading needle is just about indispensable for threading the needle.
You can buy them from jewelry supply shops or maybe even in the beading section of Joann. The needles are a very fine wire twisted to create a tiny loop for an eye. Much easier to thread the needle on a serger with one of these beading needles than with your fingers - the space and position of the eye makes it difficult to see what you're doing.
I always said that I didn't need a serger, but once I had one, I wondered why I had waited so long.
Happy shopping!
Elizabeth
|
critterologist
Frederick, MD
(Zone 6b)
November 10, 2009
09:47 AM Post #7259492
| thanks for adding your experience... this is all very helpful! |
