Help! My rims don't look very good.

Broxton, GA(Zone 8b)

Can anyone give me advice on how to make my rims look better. I use bowls covered in plastic for my molds and the edges look terrible. Sharon

Thumbnail by Kgb4013
Danville, IN

I can't give you any advice, but I actually like the look of the rims!

Gilroy (Sunset Z14), CA(Zone 9a)

I don't know if it would work on the material you're using (hypertufa?) but what I do with clay and concrete is take a strip of heavy plastic sheeting and pull it gently back and forth across the wet edge I want to smooth.

Hamilton, OH

I hope this helps you, I use a wire Brush, before it's completely dry to distress it, do you use fibremesh in your mix, also perlite looks better than vermiculite, in Hypertuffa mix

Irvine, KY(Zone 6a)

Try using a small hand tool such as a margin trowel or spatula to trim the rim while it is still somewhat plastic/

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

Next time work on an inch deep bed of damp sand so you can run your finger around the bottom edge to make a smooth groove?

Portsmouth, VA(Zone 8a)

Hello Everybody, I am new to Hypertufa. I am going to be watching this forum so I can get some ideas. I watched a video from a link a nursery gave me, but it left a lot of unanswered questions. So even though I have all the stuff I still would like some tips and ideas before I get started. Also if you use a bowl as a mold, when or how do you remove it? Please send pictures of your master pieces and your flops tell me why they flopped so I will not make the same mistakes. Tell me your secret for successful projects. This is the link:

http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Make-Hypertufa-Pots-18630332

mulege, Mexico

Wuvie just put a thread in the Trash to Treasure forum that will help. Also, go back through the old threads here; there is a lot of useful information.

kb

mulege, Mexico

I watched the video which is fine as far as it goes.

I'd suggest you get some plastic containers for molds and some PAM for mold release and then start small. Wear a dust mast for the cement and perlite.

Then have fun. If you're working with small amounts at first it's less to handle and less worry about "messing up" thouogh that's hard to do with this.

HAVE FUN. That's an order.

kb

Portsmouth, VA(Zone 8a)

I hear you! Thanks for the 'Pam' idea. Should you remove the molds before it dries or after, I was afraid I would mess it up. Plus it seems like it would dry faster without the mold.

mulege, Mexico

Just be sure it has set up. A day or two is fine. One reason to use cheap plastic molds to start is that there's less worry about destroying them.

Also, keep you objects under a damp towel or soaking in water for a few days.

Again, read the other threads. The concrete needs to cure while staying damp to make it strong. There's probably other information I'm not remembering but I think these are the most important things.

kb

Portsmouth, VA(Zone 8a)

Thank you again, I was reading some of Wuvie's stuff under trash to treasurer and I loved it, especially the bird bath. ( I'm actually more confused about the dry time)!

How can it dry if it is siting in water ??

PERTH, Australia

LOL. Good point.

mulege, Mexico

It needs to get dry enough to hold together. Then you want to slow the drying time to give the cement time to cure - whatever that means. Don't know the science but slowing the drying time makes the cement stronger. Slow, damp drying equals strong cement.

kb

mulege, Mexico

A person who used to be here started TheGardenArtForum.com He does beautiful faux bois work. They have articles on concrete, too. kb

Portsmouth, VA(Zone 8a)

OK, I found the part about curing and other stuff concerning concrete.

http://www.thegardenartforum.com/sb/index.php?mod=content&id=55&hid=30&itemid=

I will have more time for reading this weekend. It will probably be very hot and I will look for reasons to stay in the house!!

Thank You very much Katiebear, I will keep reading and let you know how it goes. I will post some pics whenever I get it together. :)

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