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Caudiciforms: Maroon Star,Daokajay,Purple Siam and Doxzon Adenium

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Forum: CaudiciformsReplies: 30, Views: 308
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froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

March 15, 2010
12:21 PM

Post #7631155

This is 4 out of the six varieties I started the middle of summer. Cant wait for a bloom! This spring I am starting several more varieties from seed,since thats the only way to get that unique cauldex.
I have 45 varieties and I would like to add them to the plant files. Since its so time consuming its going to take a while. There should be an easier way then one group at a time. If anyone knows a easier way please let me know.

Thumbnail by froggie_adg
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kareoke
Greensburg, IN
(Zone 6a)

March 15, 2010
1:26 PM

Post #7631330

nice looking plants, may I ask where you purchased your seed, I have the Purple Siam, Dark Knight, and Pink Pearl, I am anxiouse to see if they look as they were advertised.

Doris
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

March 16, 2010
2:34 PM

Post #7633970

I have seeds from all over but the purple siam and maroon star came from Th-TopTrade in Bangkok, Thailand.
Im starting 6 new ones soon havent decided which. I have way to many to start all.
Im excited to start seeing blooms so I can compare as well. Starting from seed there is always a slight change but the only way to get the swollen trunk is from seed.
kareoke
Greensburg, IN
(Zone 6a)

March 17, 2010
4:44 AM

Post #7635409

I have quite a few started now, only problem with these seeds you cannot keep them, they are only viable for a short time then they will not sprout, not like seeds you can keep and plant at a later time.


doris
echinaceamaniac
(Clint) Medina, TN
(Zone 7b)

March 17, 2010
10:05 AM

Post #7636105

I thought the grafted plants were grafted to a plant that has a swolen caudex. Since named varieties don't come true from seeds, the only way to get a true plant is by either grafted plants or cuttings. The grafted plants should have the caudex. I don't think you can guarantee you are getting a certain variety from seeds.
kareoke
Greensburg, IN
(Zone 6a)

March 17, 2010
4:58 PM

Post #7637037

I only know that the swollen caudex only comes from seed, and seed is never reliable to be the same as the parent, so who knows what you will get, only a bloom will tell.


Doris
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

March 17, 2010
6:46 PM

Post #7637340

They do make fat roots that can be interesting, from the bottom of the cutting. Go to the rather long thread about "How to make your DR produce seed" thread, and scroll nearly to the bottom to see what he shows us.

Melissa
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

March 18, 2010
8:58 AM

Post #7638437

I started 5 new varieties Black Fire 2, Special Siam,Keleidoscope,Dark Knight and Gobari all the seeds were last years seed. When I started the others those seeds were older but germinated very well. I havent had any trouble this far. I will be heartbroken if all my seeds were bad.
kareoke
Greensburg, IN
(Zone 6a)

March 18, 2010
9:41 AM

Post #7638512

froggie I hope they are OK but from all I have read the seeds only last a short time and should be planted as soon as possible.be sure and let us know.


Doris
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

March 18, 2010
12:20 PM

Post #7638824

I have 600 seeds different varieties. I will start alot but noway I can house that many in my greenhouse for the winter.
Its full of plumeria now.lol I will take all my little ones to the market just to make room in all my windows for the ones I start this year. It will be a good germination test and may lead to good insight on the rate of decrease in germination.
I will start the rest of last years seed and let you know. Last year my germination rate was 100%
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

March 30, 2010
11:08 AM

Post #7667261

So far 1/2 of 2008 seeds germinated that I planted and 100% of 2009 has germinated so far only been sowed a week.
They are all strong and doing well. Some are still in mini greenhouse while others that have grown faster are out of the bag.lol
carpathiangirl
Akron, OH
(Zone 5a)

April 8, 2010
7:52 PM

Post #7690763

Hi Froggie, I'm very interested in your older Thai seedlings, any chances of blooms? I also started several varieties and wondered what flowers I'd get. Keep us posted, will you?

Maria
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

April 9, 2010
5:28 AM

Post #7691349

Hey, Froggie, congrats on the success!

I'm thinking that the older seeds might be just as viable, but they need a four hour soak before planting.

And one person said she was looking closely at an overnight soaked seed, and it popped out of the jacket, hit her between the eyes! LOL! She then gently squeezed all 100 seeds she had, they all popped out of the coat, and she put them in Jiffy Pellets. She had something like 96% success.

Good luck with your DRs.

Melissa
Doe41
(Audrey) Dyersburg, TN
(Zone 7a)

April 9, 2010
5:36 AM

Post #7691367

All this is soooo interesting! I just got my first plant, and am waiting for seeds to be sent!
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

April 18, 2010
9:39 PM

Post #7716916

Great news I have lots of new babies! Without soaking i have 75% germination of 2008 seeds and 100% 2009. I cant wait to se the blooms. I moved last years plants to the patio. Its still mild enough here to make them happy. I will upload a pic so you all can see my newbies. I also raise plumeria so part of my pics will have plumeria in them. I just used jacks bloom booster to help flowering on both adenium and plumeria.
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

April 19, 2010
3:49 AM

Post #7717242

Froggie, this is so against what we are told.

There's an Ebay seller (who also has a website) named Adenium_Ko. He says he must carefully dry his seeds before sending them so they won't get moldy. Perhaps un dried seed go bad so quickly, and we are lead to believe that in general Adenium seed isn't viable for long.

Can't wait to see the baby pics!

This message was edited Apr 19, 2010 8:00 AM

Thumbnail by Molamola
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Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

April 19, 2010
4:03 AM

Post #7717254

Froggie went to market with large seedlings?? Were any blooming?

This message was edited Apr 27, 2010 5:08 AM
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

April 26, 2010
1:45 PM

Post #7739411

No blooms yet still waiting.
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

April 27, 2010
1:10 AM

Post #7741011

If you don't have buds yet, here's a trick to try. Don't water the plants for two weeks, let them get fairly dry. Then give them a good soak with superbloom fertilizer. I've heard two growers say that makes them produce blooms.
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

April 28, 2010
8:43 AM

Post #7745100

I use Jacks Classic Bloom Booster 10-30-20. I also have a 9-59-8 that I use on my plumies. Which one would be better? Hers all the babies so far. Some were just started a few weeks ago.

Thumbnail by froggie_adg
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Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

April 28, 2010
8:55 PM

Post #7747216

The first one, because of the 20.. I haven't found it yet, but something with ascending numbers, like 10 20 30 would be best according to the long timers.
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

April 29, 2010
10:09 AM

Post #7748511

I will go today to chemical plant and have that mixed. Thank you.
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

April 29, 2010
5:25 PM

Post #7749559

And the micro nutrients. I don't have the whole list of thirty some, but look for that on the lable.

Chemical plant???? haha Bone meal and potash.
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

April 30, 2010
9:37 AM

Post #7751248

Im still learning the whole fertilizer thing. I have a friend that works at the chem. company and he special mixes for me.
When someone says you need 8-60-8 I can get it without searching the universe.
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

April 30, 2010
4:07 PM

Post #7752231

I was quoting a long time, grower and breeder , Mark Dimmitt. He recommended the numbers, tho' I don't remember exactly what they were. But they definitely went up, a lot, for nice caudex development. The first number, Nitrogen, will make only long stems and leaves. Even if a DR is about to bloom, a big dose of nitrogen will make the plant start growing leaves on past the flower buds, and the buds will shrivvel and die. That happened to me recently.

Ha, what I do if I see a stem start growing beside flower buds, I get my Exacto knife and carefully cut the new stem off. Then I blot the sap with a bit of tissue. Left the sap the first time I did that, and the sap dried into a shiny dark brown. Doesn't look good at all, very distracting.

Fuzzy, enlarged photo, but there's the shrivveled up flower bud on the stem.

Thumbnail by Molamola
Click the image for an enlarged view.

froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

May 1, 2010
6:35 PM

Post #7755605

I let them dry out and used the bloom booster 10-30-20 today. Hopefully I will see blooms this year.
bwolfsohn
Fort Lauderdale, FL

May 3, 2010
10:20 AM

Post #7760271

Message removed by sender

This message was edited Aug 23, 2010 5:06 PM
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

May 4, 2010
12:57 AM

Post #7762381

I haven't found any yet, is there such a fertilizer?
bwolfsohn
Fort Lauderdale, FL

May 5, 2010
6:32 PM

Post #7767833

Message removed by sender

This message was edited Aug 23, 2010 5:07 PM
froggie_adg
New Bern, NC
(Zone 8a)

May 6, 2010
8:28 AM

Post #7769219

I called the chemical company and they have a 4-6-24 that they use for centipede grass. Would that work or not?
Molamola
Christiansted, VI
(Zone 11)

May 6, 2010
12:28 PM

Post #7769809

That could be combined with a superbloom fert, that has the high middle number.

And maybe that's why my little bit of centipede grass doesn't do so well, I give it tons of nitrogen.

Or bone meal and potash.

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