Maroon Star,Daokajay,Purple Siam and Doxzon Adenium

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

This is 4 out of the six varieties I started the middle of summer. Cant wait for a bloom! This spring I am starting several more varieties from seed,since thats the only way to get that unique cauldex.
I have 45 varieties and I would like to add them to the plant files. Since its so time consuming its going to take a while. There should be an easier way then one group at a time. If anyone knows a easier way please let me know.

Thumbnail by froggie_adg
Greensburg, IN(Zone 6a)

nice looking plants, may I ask where you purchased your seed, I have the Purple Siam, Dark Knight, and Pink Pearl, I am anxiouse to see if they look as they were advertised.

Doris

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

I have seeds from all over but the purple siam and maroon star came from Th-TopTrade in Bangkok, Thailand.
Im starting 6 new ones soon havent decided which. I have way to many to start all.
Im excited to start seeing blooms so I can compare as well. Starting from seed there is always a slight change but the only way to get the swollen trunk is from seed.

Greensburg, IN(Zone 6a)

I have quite a few started now, only problem with these seeds you cannot keep them, they are only viable for a short time then they will not sprout, not like seeds you can keep and plant at a later time.


doris

(Clint) Medina, TN(Zone 7b)

I thought the grafted plants were grafted to a plant that has a swolen caudex. Since named varieties don't come true from seeds, the only way to get a true plant is by either grafted plants or cuttings. The grafted plants should have the caudex. I don't think you can guarantee you are getting a certain variety from seeds.

Greensburg, IN(Zone 6a)

I only know that the swollen caudex only comes from seed, and seed is never reliable to be the same as the parent, so who knows what you will get, only a bloom will tell.


Doris

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

They do make fat roots that can be interesting, from the bottom of the cutting. Go to the rather long thread about "How to make your DR produce seed" thread, and scroll nearly to the bottom to see what he shows us.

Melissa

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

I started 5 new varieties Black Fire 2, Special Siam,Keleidoscope,Dark Knight and Gobari all the seeds were last years seed. When I started the others those seeds were older but germinated very well. I havent had any trouble this far. I will be heartbroken if all my seeds were bad.

Greensburg, IN(Zone 6a)

froggie I hope they are OK but from all I have read the seeds only last a short time and should be planted as soon as possible.be sure and let us know.


Doris

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

I have 600 seeds different varieties. I will start alot but noway I can house that many in my greenhouse for the winter.
Its full of plumeria now.lol I will take all my little ones to the market just to make room in all my windows for the ones I start this year. It will be a good germination test and may lead to good insight on the rate of decrease in germination.
I will start the rest of last years seed and let you know. Last year my germination rate was 100%

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

So far 1/2 of 2008 seeds germinated that I planted and 100% of 2009 has germinated so far only been sowed a week.
They are all strong and doing well. Some are still in mini greenhouse while others that have grown faster are out of the bag.lol

Akron, OH(Zone 5a)

Hi Froggie, I'm very interested in your older Thai seedlings, any chances of blooms? I also started several varieties and wondered what flowers I'd get. Keep us posted, will you?

Maria

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

Hey, Froggie, congrats on the success!

I'm thinking that the older seeds might be just as viable, but they need a four hour soak before planting.

And one person said she was looking closely at an overnight soaked seed, and it popped out of the jacket, hit her between the eyes! LOL! She then gently squeezed all 100 seeds she had, they all popped out of the coat, and she put them in Jiffy Pellets. She had something like 96% success.

Good luck with your DRs.

Melissa

(Audrey) Dyersburg, TN(Zone 7a)

All this is soooo interesting! I just got my first plant, and am waiting for seeds to be sent!

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

Great news I have lots of new babies! Without soaking i have 75% germination of 2008 seeds and 100% 2009. I cant wait to se the blooms. I moved last years plants to the patio. Its still mild enough here to make them happy. I will upload a pic so you all can see my newbies. I also raise plumeria so part of my pics will have plumeria in them. I just used jacks bloom booster to help flowering on both adenium and plumeria.

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

Froggie, this is so against what we are told.

There's an Ebay seller (who also has a website) named Adenium_Ko. He says he must carefully dry his seeds before sending them so they won't get moldy. Perhaps un dried seed go bad so quickly, and we are lead to believe that in general Adenium seed isn't viable for long.

Can't wait to see the baby pics!

This message was edited Apr 19, 2010 8:00 AM

Thumbnail by Molamola
Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

Froggie went to market with large seedlings?? Were any blooming?

This message was edited Apr 27, 2010 5:08 AM

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

No blooms yet still waiting.

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

If you don't have buds yet, here's a trick to try. Don't water the plants for two weeks, let them get fairly dry. Then give them a good soak with superbloom fertilizer. I've heard two growers say that makes them produce blooms.

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

I use Jacks Classic Bloom Booster 10-30-20. I also have a 9-59-8 that I use on my plumies. Which one would be better? Hers all the babies so far. Some were just started a few weeks ago.

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Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

The first one, because of the 20.. I haven't found it yet, but something with ascending numbers, like 10 20 30 would be best according to the long timers.

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

I will go today to chemical plant and have that mixed. Thank you.

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

And the micro nutrients. I don't have the whole list of thirty some, but look for that on the lable.

Chemical plant???? haha Bone meal and potash.

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

Im still learning the whole fertilizer thing. I have a friend that works at the chem. company and he special mixes for me.
When someone says you need 8-60-8 I can get it without searching the universe.

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

I was quoting a long time, grower and breeder , Mark Dimmitt. He recommended the numbers, tho' I don't remember exactly what they were. But they definitely went up, a lot, for nice caudex development. The first number, Nitrogen, will make only long stems and leaves. Even if a DR is about to bloom, a big dose of nitrogen will make the plant start growing leaves on past the flower buds, and the buds will shrivvel and die. That happened to me recently.

Ha, what I do if I see a stem start growing beside flower buds, I get my Exacto knife and carefully cut the new stem off. Then I blot the sap with a bit of tissue. Left the sap the first time I did that, and the sap dried into a shiny dark brown. Doesn't look good at all, very distracting.

Fuzzy, enlarged photo, but there's the shrivveled up flower bud on the stem.

Thumbnail by Molamola
New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

I let them dry out and used the bloom booster 10-30-20 today. Hopefully I will see blooms this year.

Fort Lauderdale, FL

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This message was edited Aug 23, 2010 5:06 PM

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

I haven't found any yet, is there such a fertilizer?

Fort Lauderdale, FL

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This message was edited Aug 23, 2010 5:07 PM

New Bern, NC(Zone 8a)

I called the chemical company and they have a 4-6-24 that they use for centipede grass. Would that work or not?

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

That could be combined with a superbloom fert, that has the high middle number.

And maybe that's why my little bit of centipede grass doesn't do so well, I give it tons of nitrogen.

Or bone meal and potash.

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