Something rotten...Adenium

Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

I wanted to repot a nice fat Adenium - and didn't see it coming: A major root was rotting badly, so I had to remove the infected tissue and dusting with cinnamon.

I don't think the plant is ruined if I can hide the large gap. I thought about placing the plant this way in a shallow pot.

Regards,

Martin



Thumbnail by MartinDK
Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

Gap...

Thumbnail by MartinDK
Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

New position in pot...

Thumbnail by MartinDK
Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

What do you think?

Thumbnail by MartinDK
Arlington, TX

Not sure but I was wondering if the gap might create a bridge like pattern if it was potted differently. That might be interesting, especially if you trimmed a bit more and there was a tunnel through the bottom.
C

Greensburg, IN(Zone 6a)

That looks pretty impressive. JT has one that has a huge hole init, hasn't bothered the plant at all.
Looks like you have some realy nice ones in the background also, where do you purchase yours from, I am raising some seedlings but that takes awhile.


Doris

Plumiedelphia, PA(Zone 7a)

itll work,
just keep the freshly cut area out of the soil till it hardens ;)

Mountlake Terrace, WA(Zone 8a)

Good to hear from you Martin!

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

Oh, boy, I bet you said "Eek!" or something like that when you discovered such a disaster. Bummer. The plant should survive OK.

Best time to push a DR is spring and summer when it's hot and they're growing a lot.

Some crazy things I've found on the internet lately concerning cutting roots for shape says they hang the plant for five days before they repot in barely damp medium. Yes, a sturdy string, and there the DR is up in the air at least sideways if not upside down. And, once again, I didn't save the link.

Thanks for posting this!

Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

Newtonsthirdlaw,

Excellent idea. I trimmed more - and found more hidden rot even though the roots weren't mushy but firm. Apparently the rot - barely visible - has spread upwards and infected the caudex, so the plant is a goner.:-( I have saved a few cuttings, though.

Oh well, I have a few others to nurse.;-)

Regards,

Martin

Plumiedelphia, PA(Zone 7a)

ive lost count with learning about rot casualties.
Good luck and never give up!!
check your soil ph too ;)

Arlington, TX

Ah bummer! But at least you do have some nice specimens. The cuttings are a new begining too. I am really new to these plants, why do you suppose rot is so common a problem. I put mine in some soil mix that drains extremely fast and here in hotter than hell TX the odds of a potted plant staying too moist in the summer seems unlikely. I think next winter there will be no watering...
C

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

Martin, so sorry you lost your plant, it looks like it was a beauty.

I keep reading, "Perfect Drainage!" Plus the plants don't use water unless their leaves are growing, hey? They need gradually less water in the fall, and little or no water in the winter months, and definitely no water if there are no leaves. Flowers don't need water, if there are flowers and no leaves, don't water.

I have a new trick, a weed! I have warm temperatures year around, but I still, in my first year, have had a generous rot problem. Here's a seedling that I water when the resident weed is shrivveled, seems to be working. I need a 'dry' photo, this is a 'wet' photo. Some sort of ornamental companion would probably do as well as a weed for a resident water meter! I am rooting some small types of coleus for my other potted plants.

This message was edited Apr 9, 2010 10:12 PM

Thumbnail by Molamola
Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

I have lost countless plants over the years - but that's how you learn to treat them right.;-) I'll buy a new one (or more) in May.

The problem with this Adenim was that it wasn't fully established in the pot but actively growing again (I just cut it back).

Watering in spring can be a little tricky in this cold climate especially after a dry winter dormancy (with the feeder roots dried up). Most of my Adeniums on the window sill leaf out in March and April but the temperature is still only 65-78 F - on sunny days! On cloudy days the temperature can easily drop to 50 F.

The ones I've raised from seeds myself are somewhat adapted to the shift in temperatures in spring - they even grow and take some water without rotting.:-)

Regards,

Martin

This message was edited Apr 10, 2010 8:42 AM

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

OK, so cut back an actively growing adenium when you haven't watered in ? at least a week? and then wait to water until it sprouts new leaves, and has these leaves in reasonable size, at least one full grown?

How about that? Would you edit what I wrote above, to show your thinking?

Thank you for this post! Tho' i doubt I'll ever prune a plant!

Melissa

Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

Melissa,

Apparently the plant has been slowly rotting for several days - perhaps a couple of weeks. But despite that it was still growing happily - or should I say, it was desperately trying to grow stems for the last chance of flowering and reproduction.;-) Well, it didn't succeed because I cut it back before the stems matured.;-)

It has been 10-12 days since I watered it the last time - I cut it back a week ago.

Regards,

Martin

Mountlake Terrace, WA(Zone 8a)

its tough to grow adenium in the north county as they like year around light and warmth. Martin is a master. I bow to him. I hope to put on some size watering them and giving them bigger pots when the weather gets warmer. Now I wonder how much rot I have induced on the window sill.

Arlington, TX

Watch out for pot size, its easier to give them too much moisture in a larger pot.
C

Copenhagen, Denmark(Zone 7b)

Newtonsthirdlaw,

You are definitely right about that. Use shallow wide pots instead of deep ones. And deep pots make the roots go down, so you end up with "carrot-like" Adeniums. I like Adeniums growing fat/wide with matching thick roots spreading sideways - not downwards.:-)

Regards,

Martin

Greensburg, IN(Zone 6a)

How do you handle that if you just got new seedlings and they already have long roots.

Plumiedelphia, PA(Zone 7a)

place them in a bowl where the roots reach the bottom of the pot so they curl and start making neat shapes.
You can also weave or twist the soft ends gently
Dont break em!! ;)

Mountlake Terrace, WA(Zone 8a)

Interesting. I have some repotting to do.

Christiansted, VI(Zone 11)

How's it going, Martin? I'd be keeping that plant really dry until it decides to start growing again. Hope it's OK.

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