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Water Gardens: Problems with my potted plants.

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FrillyLily
springfield area, MO
(Zone 5b)

July 14, 2010
9:15 AM

Post #7967774

My creeping jenny is dying. I think it is sunburnt. I guess I will mark that one off the list.
Next, my Siberian iris, I planted it in a large plastic dark green pot. I filled it with sort of a heavy clay dirt, and put it in that.
My trouble is when it rains, the rain sets on the top of the soil in the pot and does not drain. The top of the pot is probably 5 inches above water, but the pot stays full because it doesn't drain. I have to go out and manually tip it over and let it run out and then set it back up again. I am afraid this will rot the plant. Does anyone else have this trouble, and what should I do?
The other thing is, I am concerned about what to do w my Siberian iris come winter. Can I leave it in the pot sitting in the water? It will all freeze of course.
Next I have a Jap Iris I just planted. Same question- how do I over winter it?
I would love to find a plant that would grow like weeds all around the edge of my pond, be winter hardy, and not need potted. I would be tickled pink if I could find something like that.
I tried some parrots feather, but it died. I have some chameleon plant in their now, but it doesn't' seem to be growing at all, and is also sun burnt. My pond is in total full sun.

cathy166
Stamford, CT
(Zone 6b)

July 15, 2010
7:14 PM

Post #7971577

I'm no authority, but I think you'd do better with ensatas with that much water. There are water irises and wetlands irises. I think your Siberians and Japanese irises would do better outside the pond and in the ground. We have cold winters here in Connecticut, and our irises do well. The dwarf irises start out in the snow in late February. As soon as it gets a little warmer, the Japanese irises are the earliest followed by the tall bearded irises. The pond iris blooms very early also. It is somewhat insignificant, white bloom, and the pot sits in the pond. We also have dwarf japanese sweet flag which is a year round bog plant, but the bloom is insignificant.

The ensatas bloom last. These are some of the bog plants here: http://www.ensata.com/HTML/PlantPages/species_&_bog.htm

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FrillyLily
springfield area, MO
(Zone 5b)

July 15, 2010
9:46 PM

Post #7971935

Ok now i am really confused. I thought that ensata and Jap iris were the same thing?
cathy166
Stamford, CT
(Zone 6b)

July 16, 2010
8:55 PM

Post #7974466

The ensatas I bought were specifically wetlands irises. They are not the only wetlands irises, and since my ensatas probably came from Costco, they came without extensive literature even though they are healthy, sturdy plants.My standard Japanese irises are not water plants.

You can probably get more info from the iris forum than the water gardens forum on this specific plant.

Also see http://www.paghat.com/iris-ensata.html. There's a lot of info on the internet, some from botanists, some from growers and some from capitalist resellers.

This may also help: http://www.irisgarden.org/irisculture2.html. You'll note the difference between Japanese and Siberian irises as well.

I do have to divide these every couple of years. They are not in full sun for more than 2 hours each day and are not heavily watered except during droughts.

As I am in southern New England and you are in Missouri, our conditions may be vastly different despite similar growing zone temperatures.

I also strongly suggest you go to a water landscaper in your area and choose marginal irises from the grower. If they are meant to sit in water, you will purchase them with water in the pot. Since they make their living landscaping around water features, they are certain to know which go in the water and which irises should be in moist areas outside the pond.

I am not an authority. I just love and grow a lot of irises.

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kittriana

kittriana
Magnolia, TX
(Zone 8b)

July 17, 2010
6:55 AM

Post #7975127

FrillyLilly, do you know which zone you live in? I know where Lebanon, Mo is- my favorite route up thru Lake of the Ozarks cuts off of I44 there, and your winters always catch the winter storms the worst an deepest ice across I44, every year, so you have heavy weather changes to cope with. You would need a plant that roots below the freeze line, can survive hot windy summer conditions, or just arrange to have an over wintering shelter, and there is a lot of limestone rock formations so I have no clue of the ph of your soil too well either. It would fare you well to take an exploring drive in the area and ck out the older homes to see what plants they work into their landscaping and do the least amount of work on before you spend a ton of hard earned money.
turttle
Chapel Hill, NC

July 20, 2010
4:49 PM

Post #7984260

FrillyLilly, I would suggest you invest in "Encyclopedia of Water Garden Plants" by Greg and Sue Speichert. I was having very similar problems to yours, and had believed (mistakenly) that if a water plant was sold by a nursery in my area that it would be hardy here in Chapel Hill. When I complained to the nurseries in the following spring, I was told that I should have known that I needed to bring them inside in tubs of water under lights all winter. Not me! Instead, I invested in this book, which I got off of Amazon, which is very detailed on where things will and will not grow, and my pond is looking much better. You also might consider planting a tree or shrub so your pond isn't in quite so full sun - buttonbush might do okay there, and is really pretty.

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