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You, know -- this Ask Carolyn should be a permanent thread -- a sticky -- maybe.
So -- I am not from Missouri, I actually pride myself on being a Bostonian. But, I am stubborn.
While eating through a package of Campari tomatoes from Sam's Club, and having a tiny spot of vacant plant bed (in full sun) I decided -- what the heck. I'll try it.
Now I know that it's written somewhere in Dave's Garden that Campari's don't propagate from seeds from the fruit -- but, they looked so good. So I put a clump of the seeds in water -- and waited and watched them separate and drop down to the bottom -- and dried them -- and planted them. Lo and behold -- the seedlings are now springing forth from the planters.
So, Carolyn, what am I going to get if I start them in the ground?
The above link will tell you what some folks have gotten from saving seeds from Campari. They're supposed to be round red and I saw that someone got egg shaped ones.
Without knowing what the genetic parentage is there's really no way to know what you'll get, so go to it. LOL
There's a new hybid out there that is being called a Campari type and while I've never eaten a Campari fruit I can tell you that this variety, called Mt Magic F1 is very very good. It's golf ball size, same as Campari, has all sorts of genes in it for tolerance to certain diseases, which may or may not be important in terms of where a person lives and gardens.
It was bred by Dr. Randy Gardner, formerly of NCSU, who bred the whole series of Mountain varieties and many more.
Randy sent me some seeds for this one as well as for Smarty F1, his new grape one that JOhnny's has now, as well as Plum Regal F1.
With his permission I distributed seeds this past Spring for all three and I'd grown all three in the summer of 2009 and MM is my fave.
Seeds are in short supply.
Seedway is selling 100 minimum seeds for $32, Twilley is selling seeds, about 20-25 for about $!0 and I was talking with Linda Sapp at TGS last week and she's going to be selling them for $4.95 for about 20 seeds.
Pick them when they're full red but then keep them for a few days since the flavor improves greatly and they do have long shelf life just like a Campari.
So please read the thread I linked to above re growing saved F2 seeds of Campari.
Carolyn, who doesn't really need or want a sticky devoted to her just answering questions. LOL
Why should I look elsewhere, when I know that I believe in you.
Thank you -- thank you -- thank you.
I appreciate all of the advice and will carefully read that link.
But, I am short of space -- and too lazy to try EB's -- so I am going to follow through with these seedlings and hold my breath. I put them in a little seed box and already have about 85 percent germination. And they got into the sun this morning, since the survivors are already 1 1/2 inches tall.
Hehehe, yep, I saw those multiple plants...that just means you had great germination, right!? *grin
Sure, you can cull them leaving only one plant per cell, but from the looks of them they'd be better off moved into deeper pots. Don't get me wrong, they look GREAT, but transplanting them will give them a nice strong stem to support that top growth much better, and that means setting them deeper than they are now. If you choose to pot them up you can easily save those extras, potting them up as well. I hope you have room for them all in your garden.
Have fun. (And be brave! You can cull and live through it, flyboy!) :>)
Hello Flyboy! So the northeners chased you out of town. Welcome to the south! LOL I sure hope those Campari produce for you as they are truly delicious and I will follow Carolyn's info and buy the similiar ones from TGS when available.
I've had some serious health problems so I had to cut back from 19 EBs to 8 but still going and will also share with you and Aries44 (Flip) on the production of my limited garden and a BIG HELLO to you SHOE.
Sorry I've been away for so long but I'm backkkkkkk..
Well look who's back! Howdy T-plant! Good to see you. I haven't been to the Containers Forum lately but last time there saw you weren't doing so good...glad you've pulled thru and have your beloved EBs going. And if you're doing 8 of them I'd say you're doing mighty fine. Congrats!
Shoe (who wonders just how cold it is at Longboat Key, especially for a northerner) *grin
Let me tell you about the Red Sox. They were really the very greatest, until they sold Babe Ruth to the Yankees in '18 (1918 -- that is.)
They have tried hard since then and have had many successful seasons -- and a couple of pennants. We had seen them many times when we were still in Boston. I was at the Carlton Fisk homer -- and the time Lou Boudreau beat them with a cheap home run. Ted Williams was a real star -- had he been nicer to the fans he could have been elected Mayor of Boston -- but he wasn't. The real heartbreaks were the reputation they had for fading during September.
The only sad part of the Red Sox story is that they cannot come up against the hated Yankees in the World Series.
It was a fantastic old-time ball park. I haven't been in the rebuilt one. And, don't think that I'll ever get the chance.
Boston is a great town -- really a historical gem.
Thank you for the history lesson. I can't believe you were at those games, my oldest son would love to talk with you. That trip to Fenway was one of the best trips I've ever taken and I've been all over the world! I also like Dodgers Stadium an older ball park also.
Russ Martin, a DGer here has been asking folks to grow out his Camparis for several years. I participated last year with five plants on the F3 gen and have just sent him back the seed from four. I'm sure he would be looking for volunteers this Spring. I can report the results of the dozens of plants I started, if there are any questions here, and the results of the five I grew. Just ask if interested.
Here's the cut and paste version of the note sent to Russ...
"I am sending four individual packets...Campari #1- #3 and Campari IG, which stands for "In Ground", and was the single seed that germinated after being direct sown. All performed well and had good natural disease resistance. The numbers refer to plant growth vigor and timing of first fruiting. Once #2 and #3 caught up with #1 and the IG, the production was pretty equal. They were not highly flavorful, were tough skinned and not good for roasting or sauces. They were just okay for salads. Their best use, IMO is for salsas, in pasta salads or marinated with other vegetables because they stay firm, are on the dry side, like a Roma, and store well."
So in re-reading the above it sounds somewhat negative but they were incredibly prolific and consistent in size and flavor from plant to plant. They were at least as good as the store bought ones and of the smaller variety, not the golf balls. The continued to produce until hard freeze, even surviving six weeks of intermittent frosts.
The blossoms are popping -- and the main stems seem thicker that what I am accustomed to seeing.
(oops) The ones in the pots -- each pot has one degradable starter cube with two, three inch tall, seedlings that was planted in about four inches of of potting soil -- and I've added soil on two occasions -- so it is now pretty close to the top.
The three cubes in the ground are a little slower -- but catching up.
The miracle to me is that they were growing while I was still consuming their cousins. The fruit certainly has a long shelf life!
If anyone wants to dehybridize a campari type variety I highly suggest the variety Mt Magic F1, which I've grown for two years and offered free seeds for it last year coutesy of Dr. Randy Gardner who bred it, and it's now available at many sites for 2011.
The best money deal for these seeds is at TGS. Trust me that as each new site is reported to have the seeds folks are taking out their abacuses, tweaking the beads and locating the best deals. LOL
And I suggest it b'c of its ability to produce in adverse conditions, its disease tolerant genes bred in for many diseases, which may or may not be applicable to where a person lives and gardens, and it also tastes darn good to boot. LOL
I can link to site where its traits are noted if that would help anyone interested.
Thanks, Laurel for sharing your grow-out/critique. Much obliged.
Carolyn, so you've been sharing seeds of Mt Magic F1? Or saved seeds of Mt Magic F1 growouts (F2, etc)? Would this be one that Randy would tell you the parents of, or how many? (I don't want much, do I!?) *grin
Carolyn, so you've been sharing seeds of Mt Magic F1? Or saved seeds of Mt Magic F1 growouts (F2, etc)? Would this be one that Randy would tell you the parents of, or how many? (I don't want much, do I!?) *grin
Shoe, last Jan I did my usual seed offer then I think it was in March I did a separate one for Mt Magic F1, Smarty F1 and Plum Regal F1, all bred by Randy Gardner. Bejo seeds in the Netherlands was supposed to have all three placed commercially in 2010 but it didn't happen. I should correct myself, Smarty F1 was offered by Johnny's Seeds either last year or the year before, it's a grape tomato. MM is a somwhat larger cherry and Plum Regal is a saladette type and I far preferred the other two.
No, I saved no F2 seeds from any of them, but I know there are several folks who breed varieties that are using especially MM in their breeding projects b'c of the tolerances bred in and of course started with saved F2 seeds from the F1, or even crossed the F1 with the proverbial X. LOL
And no, Randy would tell no one what the parents are for any of them b'c he bred them when he was still at NCSU, although retired now but still breeding tomatoes. he sent me seeds for 4 hybrids this past spring and all of the parental inputs were specified in an e-mail, and that's not info to be shared as I'm sure you can inderstand.
Shoe, he's still in Fletcher most of the time and I'll e-mail you the rest.
But if you're that close to Fletcher then you aren't THAT far from where my brother is about 18 miles north of Asheville, Fletcher being about the same below Asheville, so you darn well should drive up to my brother's place and ID his tomato diseases for him b'c I've given up trying to help him. LOL
He complains all the time that he never had such disease problems when he was living up near me. Oh well.
Maybe I should pick up Craig and Lee and take them. I have a feeling they are better at disease diagnosis than I am.
Thanks...and yes, give me a reason to head to the hills, I need to escape here when I can!
Shoe (who thinks Carolyn is counting down the days to the up-coming tennis matches, sitting and counting out tomato seeds, hollering "Love!" by accident instead of "9,10, 11, 12 seeds...") (ya see, we all know you too well!) grin*
What green when ripe tomato would you recommend for someone who is new to them. I had trouble knowing when Ananas Noir was ripe. Are there green when ripe tomatoes that tell you when they are ripe by visual clues? I don't understand the spicy description. Spicy like what other food if it is possible to describe the taste. I have read that green zebra is zingy and other places that it is sweet.
There are those who like the taste of Green Zebra and those who don't and I'm in the lattter group and don't even consider it a typical GW ripe variety.LOL
I don't think I'm very good at explaining taste but almost all of the GWRipe varieties that I've grown do have more of a sweet taste than an aggresive taste and yes, for me most of them are somewhat spicy but I have no comparison spice to compare it with.
Most GWRipes do form an amber blush at the blossom end and even higher than that and when you see that and the fruits are starting to get a bit soft to the touch, then I think it's time to pick them.
For someone new at growing GWripes and not being sure when they are ripe I suggest growing a GWRipe cherry variety b'c on one truss you have fruits at all stages of maturation and you can directly see and sample the ones that are ripe.
I used to grow Green Grape, but haven't ever since the variety Green Doctors came on the scene and I highly suggest GD as the cherry to grow. If you want to grow another, somewhat larger fruited variety I think a good one to start with is Cherokee Green based on the many GWRipes I've grown and I could easily suggest lots more but CG is usually at the top of lots of lists that folks grow and I'd put it there as well.
Thanks.That is a good idea to start with a cherry. I just read your snow rant elsewhere and so I am not feeling sorry for myself with 4 dogs in the house last night and 3 below zero this morning. There is one track down the middle of the highway with a foot of snow in the high center. I am going to my mailbox after I get my coveralls on to see if the mail came today; there could be tomato seeds.
I just read on another thread that one of our DGers encountered a lady at a compost teaching class. They got into a discussion, and she commented that her tomato crop the year before was not good. But this year she had a bumper crop.
She grew them in:
A large bag of dog food
A large bag of kitty litter
A large bag of alfalfa
Would you comment on why this would or would not work, please.
She grew them in:
A large bag of dog food
A large bag of kitty litter
A large bag of alfalfa
Would you comment on why this would or would not work, please
If the woman teaching the class had a bumper crop using the above. well, I dunno, I wouldn't use any of them. And did she tell others what amendments she used or whether the above were grown strictly in just the above or mixed with something else.
Dog food? I have no idea what the NPK is but it shouldn't be too far off but the stuff would have to be pulverized first. Tomato roots don't chomp down food and digest it as would a doggie, and I havve no idea if she was talkiong about wet or solid dog food.
Kitty Litter? There are all kinds with different compositions but I can't think any of them have any NPK worthwhile, usually none of them do except what one might find in clay.
Alfalfa? Almost pure N, many folks use the pellets to fertilize with but I've never heard of anyone growing anything in pure alfalfa and it too would have to be pulverized.
Nope, not for me, not any of them in any form whatsoever. ( smile)
A bit off topic, but since the thread turned to NPK fertilizers, I've been meaning to mention one I've started using.
I ordered a liter of "Algoflash" liquid fertilizer from Shumway along with some seeds, and I've been using it on our potted plants for about a month. A capful of the fertilizer goes in every gallon of water, and it's used every time the plants are watered - one bottle doses 128 gallons. So far, I've been real happy with it.
I got the "tomato" formulation because it's 4-6-8, a little higher in phosphorus. The fertilizer also contains many trace minerals in small amounts. Our indoor-in-the winter plants are going nuts - I've never seen them look this good.
In particular, my pot of Maui Purple Pepper plants has thrived. The plants are by a window looking out at the snow, they're a foot taller than they've ever been, and they're blooming and setting on peppers like crazy.
I'm not saying that this fertilizer brand is better than anyone else's, you understand - just that it's sure working for me. Once I get tomatoes in the garden, in addition to my regular fertilizer and compost practices, I think I'll go around with a watering can every couple of weeks and give them some "Algoflash". Can't hurt.
Gymgirl, here ya go- 3 photos that tell the story- I checked last year if DE is harmful to earthworms and was told no- I use many bags of it during the summer- it's great to add to container soil, too.
Since this is a Q&A thread I hope that you don't mind if I ask a question. I planted 4 tomato plants and out of the 4 there is one that's loosing the bottom leaves. They turn yellow and fall of. It's a Heirloom Beefsteak. Don't know if it's normal since the other 3 are all green and with fruit. This one is just starting to bloom even though it's one of the tallest plants and I'm just a bit concerned. If photos are needed just let me know.
A question and answer thread? Here's what Carolyn said when Flyboy decided on the title of this thread, and said it back in Novermber:
(Carolyn, who doesn't really need or want a sticky devoted to her just answering questions. LOL)
Flyboy has done the majority of the posts here following the matruation of plants, but I think everyone should be able to contribute, I really do.
That being said, what are the variety names of the four that you planted and did you buy them as plants or raise them from seed and are they inground or in containers?
it's normal to have lower leaves drop off but not for just one variety out of four. IS there anything at all that you can think of that makes that one plant different from the others in terms of where it's being grown and whether you've grown tomatoes in the past in that specific area?
On that one plant do you see any spots on the lower leaves before they fall off and if so can you please describe what they look like as to size and shape and color and if there are any yellow halos around those spots?
Carolyn...as a fairly recent convert to the tomato cult and already a Carolyn fan, I was just curious if you ever attended
the Tomatofest in Monterrey, CA (Gary Ibsen). Regrettably, it ceased to exist before my tomato interest began to
exist, but I think I would loved to have attended. My question...are you aware of any similar tomato fairs in Calif.,
Nev. or Ariz.? Before venturing much further, I would have to see just how nutso I get over tomatoes.
While I've known Gary since about 1990, he used to subscribe to an International newsletter on heirlooms that Craig LeHoullier and I published back then, I've had no interest in attending his former Tomatofest event.
That NORCAL thread gets more active as the time when the event is held gets closer, which is true for all the regional events.
Hope that helps.
Carolyn, who welcomes you to the tomato obsessed club. LOL
Your welcome. It's a great way to make plants for a second crop, especially if you are dealing with determinates that will poop out on you at some point. Root some suckers and you'll have plants for setting out, getting that last little bit of season out of the year.
beausMom wrote:What green when ripe tomato would you recommend for someone who is new to them. I had trouble knowing when Ananas Noir was ripe. Are there green when ripe tomatoes that tell you when they are ripe by visual clues? I don't understand the spicy description. Spicy like what other food if it is possible to describe the taste. I have read that green zebra is zingy and other places that it is sweet.
If you like a good, BIG tomato that is GWR, you might like Malakhitovaya Shkatulka ("Malachite Box"). Ripe when there's just a hint of pink on the bottom. It grew well here, winning a Gold for taste and a Bronze for size at our local tomato contest (see http://www.bensonfarmersmarket.org/page/the-good-the-big-and-the-ugly). The taste has (to me) just a hint of citrus on top of mild tomato flavor; I liked it, as did everyone who tasted it. I don't care especially for Green Zebra, but I know others who like it a lot. I don't know anyone who describes Green Zebra as "sweet".
What an OUTSTANDING forum and bunch of folks here! I just joined and have loads of questions. I got interested in Camparis because I assumed that since I purchased them in the winter and they were from Canada, they must be good greenhouse candidates. I bought a little 6X6 portable greenhouse and ordered 6 Mountain Magic plants from Burpee. I live in Powhatan, VA, which some zone maps say is 7a, but another map shows a little area in the middle of the state that includes Richmond and Powhatan (30 mi west) as zone 6b. Burpee wouldn't ship the plants earlier than their 6b time, so I'm having them sent to a friend in the Outer Banks of NC where we have a little cottage (Duck) with a small herb and salad garden. That seems to be 8a. They should arrive in NC the first week in April and I'll bring them back home to the greenhouse, wait till mid April to plant in Duck, May 1 in Powhatan. I also fermented and cleaned the seeds from one grocery store Campari, and have 100% germination, skinny teeny little things. Now for a bunch of questions:
1. Are the plants from Burpee F1? I did pass my botany class, but that was somewhere around 1966, so I don't remember anything about genetics. Could somebody give me a quick explanation of F1, F2, F3 WRT to these camparis?
2. Do the grocery store tomato seeds have any chance of producing tomatoes like their parent?
3. If I save seed from the Burpee tomatoes, will they be F2, and what does that mean for trying to grow plants from those seeds?
4. My main goal is to get some winter tomatoes. In Duck, we can often go well into December without a frost. Would August be a good time to plant a new plant there, or should I start in July? Would it just be a lot safer to buy the seeds from TGS and start them myself, or could I try starting from cuttings from the Burpee plants? Or would the whole project not be worthwhile because the days will be short and so much cooler than summer? This is zone 8a
5. I've never had a greenhouse before. I'm thinking maybe I could plant a campari late (again, don't know what date) in a huge pot, let it grow outside through, say, mid September, and then put it in the greenhouse (zone 6b). I have a cheap heater in there and a pretty good greenhouse thermostat that has been able to keep the temp around 50 degrees when the outdoor temp was in the low 20s.
I've grown Mountain Magic for two years now, seeds sent to me by the Breeder Dr. Randy Gardner of NCSU.
So I'll try as well.
The Burpee Plants will be F1 plants but it would have been a heck of a lot cheaper to buy the MM F1 seeds from the many places that are selling them, but TGS has the best price.
Since MMF1 is a hybrid the saved seeds will be viable but the plants you get will probably be different from the original F1 plants and fruits b'c F1's are not stable. If you sow lots of the F2 seeds and then lots of F2 plants you will see what's called genetic segregation. That is, some of the parental inputs in the construction of MM F1 may , probably will, show different plants and fruits, and you may find something you like If so save seeds from many fruits on that plant, now the F3 seeds and repeat what you've already dine, selecting for that plant and fruit until what you have is called Open pollinated, OP, selection, which is not longerMM F1.
And that means that every seed you sow gives rise to the same plants and fruits.
It can take from 5-7 years to get to the OP state.
Frankly I wouldn't bother. The parentage for MM F1 is complex and I think it's cheaper and more expedient to just buy the seeds.
I f you want to take sucker cuttings from the F1 Burpee plants you can do that but I'mnot so sure about the timing as you've described it
As for timing, I have many friends in NC and they're just now sowing seed and I mean in Raleigh, Efland and I forget where Lee lives. My brother lives about 20 miles north of Asheville and so it's cooler there.
I've forgotten all your place and timing other questions b'c I'm tired and want to go to bed, LOL, but if you could tell me if my post helped and what questions I didn't answer that would help a lot/
Carolyn, who forgot tosay that the store bought Camapari's are F1 hybrids so just follow alongwith what I said about MMF1/
Carolyn, thanks for the great info. I went ahead and ordered seeds for mid summer planting, got them for $3.95 for 10 from Johnnyseeds.com. At that price I won't be throwing 3 seeds in each little pot! The seeds are probably more expensive than the pots. You've convinced me not to count on seeds from grocery store tomatoes, but I'll find some place to plant one of them just for fun.
My garden in NC is on the Outer Banks, so there probably won't be another frost. Here in Powhatan we don't generally put in tomatoes until the first of May, probably about the same as inland NC. We're on the east side of a dune about 1100' from the ocean, so the wind is pretty brisk in the spring. I planted a Celebrity and a San Marzano a week ago since I have a bunch of them from seed. If the wind destroys them, I'll just plant some more in a couple weeks. The garden there is for our renters, so I like to have a few early tomatoes for them in June.
P.S. I have some Black Russian seeds coming from Hazzards, if anyone wants to trade.
From what I read about them:
72 days (or 78 days)
rich old fashioned complex heirloom flavor
sweet taste with spicy and smoky undertones
turns dark red-black (mahogany red) when mature
Heavy producer and early!
I am sooooooooooooooooooo glad you posted this! I just cleared out my garage to gather all my seed-starting paraphernalia for sowing again in mid-June, and I ran across whole packages of peat pots and peat pellets, and thought, "hmmmm. no sense in these going to waste..."
Are the peat pots (they're single little pots) the same as those thingies you used?
I recall the roots grew through the peat pots, and definitely through the peat pellets...problem was keeping them watered properly. They stay too wet and/or dry out too fast.
I've used peat pots in the past and found them to get moldy. I would always peel the pot away from the plant and then put it in the ground. I have a stack of those things in the basement somewhere. I prefer to use the peat pellets now. They work great for me; water from the bottom and they soak up what they need and when it's time for potting up, I always take off the netting even if it disturbs some of the roots. They never show any distress and take off once in the bigger pots (16 oz. cups).
Yup, I'll chime in. Not a fan of the peat pots. This season I used pellets from a store over in Dallas Drthor recommended. I don't think they are totally peat (bat guano added). My older son is in college and visits the area with his friends every now and again so he picked some pellets up for me. Definitely had some nice veg starts this year!
terry-emory, I am glad that you enjoy Texas Hydroponic store.
I love the Roots Organic products.
I have millions of tomatoes, pepper and eggplants already this year thanks to their products ... and maybe luck !!
Toni and Terri, I'm a bit particular with my peat pots. There are problems with the small ones (rotting, confining, etc.). I like starting with the 5-6" pots and about an inch of soil. As the plants develop their first set of true leaves, we watch them carefully and continue to add fresh soil to the pots. With larger volumes of soil, the roots spread. They are also not so sensitive to drying between watering if necessary. The we start to put them into direct sunlight by putting them into the car of van under the windshield (front or back) in a car we don't often use. (Our own personal greenhouse.)
When we plant, we tend to wet an d rip the peat pots, but in any case we plant deep to encourage more root growth.
LEt's just say that I am alive and good grief why did you ever bring this thread back to the first page. LOL
Yes, I know what that disease is, but can't remember the name right now so will have to check it out and get back to you when I can.
Just too much catching up to do after being off line for almost three weeks and now dealing with a new computer.
I think it maybe Buckeye Rot, but would like to confirm that. It's a systemic disease, not a foliage disease. Maybe you can go to one of the good disease sites and check it out, starting perhaps with ones from FL.
New computer! My, aren't you the brave one. You are gutsy. Me, I keep my abacus handy -- and still remember the "times" tables. Remember when Dick Tracy had a two-way wrist radio and Buck Rogers could actually fly through space. (But, if i remember correctly, it was "Buck Rogers in the 25th century!"
It affected only that one tomato, so far. I will check around! The blemish actually seems confined. I don't know whether I should pull it off and send it swimming -- or wait and see what develops.
I'd pick off the worst leaves, research has indicated that the plants can stand about 1/2 leaf loss and still ripen the fruits. Spraying does little since the miners are inside the leaves.
And only plants where the vector has landed and laid the eggs go on to have miner problems, so i don't think it is JUST the black varieties that escapeed, theoreticaly it could be any variety color.
Being in FL I know it's a bad problem andif it were me I'd consult the experts;. have you Googled the U of FL to find their fact sheet on leaf miners and theirlife cycle and their suggestions as to what to do? I know I would.
Paul is correct, not so much health problems per se but I fell march 7th, EMT's said I was OK, next day not as to pulled muscles in my back, very painful, ended up having to get to the ER by ambulance to be sure I hadn;t broken anything, I hadn;t, but consequences from what the ER MD said I should take for spasms and pain and I won't go into that at all.
Probably tomorrow I can get back about Grey Mold, which I've also had to deal with just a few times, as well as you know it's Grey Mold and not Late Blight, which it resembles.and give you a link or two.
Thank you for your response -- and I am sorry to hear about your mishap. But -- happy to hear that you are on the mend.
Welcome to super-maturity. Falling, however, does come into play. I just heard about a new product, by one of the security companies, that sends out an alarm to its control center IF the wearer suffers a fall -- and, sends EMS help.. Seems better than having "Big Brother' watching over one.
I am awaiting your "grey mold" advice with bated breath.
I wasn't sure if you went looking for the FL Disease sites as I suggested in a post above, so above is a Google link to those.
I think it's the thirid one down that says that grey mold and other fungal diseases can only be prevented, but not cured, by prior application of anti-fungals, of which Chlorothalonil is mentioned, that's Daconil, which is the best antifungal that I know of, and also Mancozeb.
If you use Daconil it's the concentrate you want with active ingredient of something like 26%, I can't remember the exact % but that's in the ballpark.
I don't want to get into organic or not here, Daconil is not, but it has lower toxicity than does Rotenone ( organic), which is approved by every organic cerrtifying agency I know of. Which is why I think it's very wrong to say that organic is good and synthetic is not.