One user here recommened using Bayer tree and shrub systemic to kill the mealy bugs on coleus. I don't have any of that, but I have some Bayer Rose and Flower Systemic. The instructions very specifically say not to use on potted plants and containers. Yet the instructions for the tree and shrub one do give instructions for containers. Does anyone know what the difference is between these two products and why one is ok for containers and the other not?
Check the ingredients to see if the main one is Imidacloprid. I think it is. If so, I would not hesitate to use it on your coleus. The difference is that the rose formula last for 6 or 9 weeks, if I remember correctly while the other one is good for twelve months. The Bayer Tree and Shrub stuff was not recommended for potted plants until last year. If fact, the label said to NOT use it on potted plants. Go figure.
I use the rose stuff on my potted tree roses every year, so I can't imagine it wouldn't help the coleus. If all else fails, my local big box stores and WalMart have the 12-month Bayer in stock already for spring, so yours probably does too.
I use the Bayer Rose on everything that is not edible. Great results.
I err on the weak side when mixing.
I'm ordering from Gerhardt even without a discount.
I am also moving to a much warmer part of Florida.
I maybe able to overwinter next year.
My Bayer Rose and Flower is an "all in one" one, so it contains fertilizer too. I wonder if that is why it's not good to use in containers, like maybe it would be too much. Still, if one makes it on the weak side, as you say, then I should think it would be ok. Is that Bayer Tree and Shrub one an "all in one" also? I noticed that the Imadaclo... ingredient, is the SECOND one, and NOT the main ingredient. Might be worth getting the Tree and Shrub one just for comparison.
Actually, the Bayer brand rose and flower systemic that I see locally comes in a drench (concentrate). I've never seen a Bayer rose and flower spray. I can't vouch for how effective the spray is on coleus, but I would think it would help.
In the past I used Garden Safe Insecectidal Soap to drench a Coleus with mealy bugs and it worked. Afterwards the foliage looked great and did well in the spring indoors and outside in the summer without any mealy bugs!
I havnt used the drench yet. I bought the Bayer last fall on the recomendation of Pollyk.
She uses it for iris borer as well as lily beetles.
I had used Rose and Flower spray and Sevin .I would drench with Sevin in April as soon as the lilies appeared. I didnt own any Iris at that time but purchased some since.
DD has Iris that have been eaten with the borer. I hope we can keep the iris that were here when we bought the house in '07.
I continued to spray with Sevin all summer or when I saw beetle activity. I have a considerable bunch of lilies and dont want to loose any.
If it's the rust on the back of the leaves, Sharon, we have it in the northeast as well. I've never found a cure for it so it's planted in the back of the garden and I just rip off the offensive leaves but I won't add them to compost - that would spread the problem.
I don't cure rust. I try to get each hollyhock seedling (self-sown from former years) and rip them out since the leaves will be ugly before the plants even get to the point of blooming. If it gets away from me, I just rip off all the infected leaves for the trash - never for compost or in with garden waste.
I'm just not such a devoted gardener that sprays constantly to avoid plant problems. I try to grow more plants that don't have the problems at all.
WormsLovSharon: There is a little green worm(s) that will skeletonize your hollyhock leaves. I read somewhere that they are actually the caterpillars of Painted Lady butterflies. You can spray for them if you want, although they usually don't kill the plants.
The rust is the fungus Puccinia malvacearum, which can be controlled by fungal sprays. However, modern cultivars are more resistant to this fungus. The spores overwinter on dead, but infected, leaves on the ground. Removing infected leaves as they appear helps, as well as raking up and removing any dead stems and leaves in the fall, or at least in early spring before new growth appears. Since hollyhocks are biennuals, there are always green rosettes in the fall that stay green through the winter so they get infected quickly.
Thank both of you. I usually do not use pesticides. I feed the birds and they take care of my garden. About the only thing that gets hit is the hollyhocks. I only have them because I remember them from my mother's front yard. I think I will just have to think about this a little more. Maybe I will send the seeds to someone else. Later, Sharon.