unfortunately, the heat, dry air and too much sunlight got the best of my large konjak. now the air is humid since the monsoon has arrived. too late for one of my konjaks though.
is there a chance that it will try and push out another leaf after this petiole shrivels up? or should i just dig it up and store it until the next growing season.?
i am hoping that a new bulb actually started forming. i doubt it will be big though. it's sad that i still have three months of good growing. i have learned my lesson will will grow them in the shade next year.
Good question. I am not sure as I have only grown these for 2-3 years. My biggest corm (8" around) refuses to wake up this year for me. The smaller ones are up and doing fine. I would say it MAY try to send up another but I can't be sure. Hopefully someone more experienced will reply!
Mr. D, I learned that once the plant made flower, the original tuber will die making room for new offsprings underground. So during the growing season, keep caring the area as you'd normally do to nourish the young bulbils (our is that bulblets?)being formed even though above ground the leaflets and petiole are fafiding/ shriveling up.
thanks for the comments. i might dig down to see if a new corm has formed. lily_love i was concerned about watering it if there is no leaf to draw up the water. are you saying that the bulbs will still pull in water w/o a leaf?
You bet, I don't know what truly trigger the breaking of dormancy. Some is the temp. other is sunlight, but mine took months before I saw sign of life from the pot. So happen a Sunflower seedling volunteered in the pot. I nourished that sunflower seedling, then months later, the Konjac made its way to the life of the living-- so to speak. lol. I've posted another thread on my finding here on the Aroid forum. :))
The leaf on my A. albispathus was broken off but after a few weeks a new one grew. It was smaller but grew right into winter which has given it some extra time to catch up. I'd keep it from drying out and you could get a comeback, although smaller in size. You'd be better off not interfering with the tuber/roots as you'll only damage anything that's there and further restrict its development. I think nearly all Amorphs do better in good light but shade.
tropicbreeze, thank you for your input. Is the Amorph your native plant? I've seen your thread in regard to these plants. They're fascinating! They def. have a benefit of longer growing season there in Australia since I gathered your winter is mild there? Here in our zone, we do get some light frost, occasional freezes during the winter.
Only 2 are native here (in the north only), paeoniifolius and galbra, the other 200 odd species come from around south east Asia, New Guinea. The winters are milder here. Although, I tend to grow plants that need high temperatures so the weather here can be borderline sometimes. Like this winter has been the coldest on record here. But my Cyrtospermas and the A. titanum still seem to cope.
thanks for the added input tropicbreeze. i followed lily_love's lead and have kept it going. i am giving the pot more sun for heat and keeping the soil moist. i will move it into bright indirect light as soon as i see signs of new growth. thanks everyone for helping me!
They don't cost much;). I know you really don't have to worry about such but I was just curious after I read you were having a colder Winter than normal. Looking forward to viewing more pictures from you.
Rachel, I'll have to try to remember next time I go into the big smoke. I have to work out what they did on that other site, then I'll post some more pics. The newest Lasia spinosa flower/inflorescence is much bigger than the first few were.
I'll keep checking the other sites but we would enjoy viewing them on this site too. I'm looking forward to seeing those newer inflorescense from your Lasia. Mine is still yet to produce one but I've had to repot it twice to larger pots since the advice you gave me. It sure is proving to be a fast and easy grower.