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Plumerias: Please advise

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Forum: PlumeriasReplies: 22, Views: 180
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daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 26, 2011
11:00 AM

Post #8824945

This plumeria had rotted in the spring from too much water too early. The stem was pulled from the soil and left for dead. About a month ago, while visiting my folks, I took it to try to revive it. I broke off the rotted portion ( which practically fell off), wet the end, dipped in rooting hormone, and planted in cactus mix with added perlite. Over the past month it has only looked better. No softness, no blackening. Still wrinkled, but not as much as before (I think, no worse anyway). Well the growing season is coming to an end, and I'm not sure what to do. Do I pull it out to check for roots? Pull it out and save it plant again in spring? Leave it where it is, and cut off water when it comes inside for winter ? The only part that actually looks healthy is the last two or so Inches of the stems. Will a stem that short root if all else fails? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks.

I'll send pics soon
daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 26, 2011
11:04 AM

Post #8824953

here we are

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daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 26, 2011
11:05 AM

Post #8824957

another

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daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 26, 2011
11:06 AM

Post #8824959

and another

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daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 26, 2011
11:07 AM

Post #8824960

and the last

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tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

September 27, 2011
3:17 AM

Post #8826130

how does it feel at the soil line? i don't like how it looks at the base. hopefully, it is not rot.
daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 27, 2011
8:15 AM

Post #8826461

It's solid at the base. That's why I'm still hopeful it'll survive. That's one of the parts that's improved.
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

September 27, 2011
11:48 AM

Post #8826692

you want to dig down gently with a fork and check for roots. you can also give it a gentle twist. the latter can be misleading though.

where do you keep it?

Lily_love

Lily_love
Central, AL
(Zone 7b)

September 27, 2011
11:58 AM

Post #8826703

I fear that the cambium layers are severely affected, thus unable to transport nutrients back and and forth. As an experimentation. I tried to root an old inflorescent with grew adventitious leaves. The terminal ends with small leaves lasted a long while. I guessed it was relying on the reserved energy from the petiole to survive but not actively growing. I recently dug it up, to find there was no viable rootlets.
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

September 27, 2011
12:12 PM

Post #8826714

hi lily,

the cutting will not plump up until it has roots. then, the xylem can transport water and nutrients up from the soil.

right now the cuttings is probably relying one the reserves in the pith.
daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 27, 2011
12:24 PM

Post #8826726

It's in full shade, north side of house. If no roots are found can I store the stem till spring to try again?

Lily_love

Lily_love
Central, AL
(Zone 7b)

September 27, 2011
12:34 PM

Post #8826739

Mr. D. Your point is well taken. But, the point I try to make is that the whatchamacallit "xylem" within the cambium system is collapsed and won't be able to recover? Dnh. I can't answer that question. For myself, I would cut all the sick looking cane back to the healthy looking point of the cane. Then allow the cut end to callous over and promptly try to root it again. Good lucks, and happy gardening.
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

September 27, 2011
2:39 PM

Post #8826896

dave you want to continue the rooting process but hold off on the water. the cutting will only shrivel more if it doesn't root soon. six months from now there might be much of nothing left.

it can recover lily. it just needs roots to start pulling up water and nutrients. someone gave me a plumie that was badly shriveled because the soil was bone dry. i transplanted it and watered it. the next day it was plump as can be and looked like a completely different plumie. i do agree that the base does not look the best but it could just be discoloration from the soil.

i would definitely check it dave. rot can travel beyond just the part that actually looks rotted. did you cut it back to clean wood before you prepared it to root?
daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 27, 2011
11:10 PM

Post #8827411

I wouldn't say it was clean. Badly shriveled, but no rot.
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

September 28, 2011
12:01 PM

Post #8828011

not sure what you mean. but what i was getting at is that you always want to see clean, white flesh after cutting away any rot. that way you know that you have a good start. i always like to let it callous over before planting but some ppl have had good luck just planting right after cutting. i don't know how but it works for some. check out my beeswax post when you have time.
daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

September 29, 2011
12:53 PM

Post #8829437

When I got the stem it was so dry that the rot had stopped and the stem from that point on was shriveled, badly. The only part that wasn't shriveled was the last few inches of the stem. I thought I'd try as is and if it didn't work, then cut the good part off and try with that. Then I'd have three! Very small, but three none the less.
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

September 29, 2011
1:37 PM

Post #8829492

oh, okay.
daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

April 19, 2012
11:57 AM

Post #9089034

Well, all the tips rotted over the winter. Now I have another pot for something else.
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

April 20, 2012
9:01 AM

Post #9090126

why?
daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

April 20, 2012
9:37 AM

Post #9090199

Because I thought I could get it to root in our master bathroom over the winter. With our houses as close together as they are, the bathroom gets more sun and stays warmer than any other room. I had been keeping the stem in the garage and for some reason I panicked and thought I had to try to root it immediately. I was going to try again to root the entire piece. If that didn't work, I'd cut the tips off and try to root them.

As Lily_love said the xylem was too far gone. Then neglect took over, as well as the soil gnats that took over. I wasn't very popular because of those little buggers. I was afraid to water for fear of encouraging more gnats. I never thought to switch to plan B and cut the tips off. The healthy tips were so small though, I didn't think they would have a chance. That about sums it up.

Here's a question. What is the smallest cutting that has been attempted, or successfully rooted?
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

April 20, 2012
5:29 PM

Post #9090861

i think ppl have rooted 4" cuttings. you need to start of with something healthy and plump if you are rooting that small though.

are you on facebook? lots of plumeria talk on there. good stuff on rooting. allowing cuttings to produce callus tissue and then bag rooting has definitely caught on in the plumeria world.

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daves_not_here
Las Vegas, NV
(Zone 9b)

April 20, 2012
7:19 PM

Post #9091000

Nope, not on Facebook. To say the tips had two inches of healthy flesh would be a stretch.

I'm going to focus on getting the plumies I have to flower. If I learn that, I'll look into getting some cuttings. I don't know what it is. My plants grow an inflo, the buds just dry up before they open. :(
tucsonplumeriaz
Tucson, AZ

April 20, 2012
8:03 PM

Post #9091042

it could be a gazillion things really. would need more explanation and details.

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Other Plumerias Threads you might be interested in:

SubjectThread StarterRepliesLast Post
What about a "new forum" for plumerias? Plumeriagod 56 Apr 25, 2007 2:15 AM
Feeding CaCajun 9 May 12, 2007 12:09 AM
underplanting plumies vossner 21 May 19, 2008 10:33 PM
have neve hard this happen to one of my plumies before junglebob 56 Sep 19, 2007 3:28 AM
Panama plumies vossner 53 Apr 15, 2007 11:22 AM


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