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I am remodeling a trailer and have come up on a problem and I'm not sure the best way to repair it. The board that runs along the bottom of the wall of an exterior wall under a window is rotten. The leak has been repaired. Do I make a dummy wall of sorts so I can pull the bad wood out to replace it? I have the paneling and insulation out already. The studs are good and so are the floor joists. I will be replacing the subfloor. Here is a picture of the wall
You say the studs are good, but it looks like mold or rot on the two supporting the window.
The plate that the studs stand on is what you want to replace?
To do that, you need to build a temporaty support wall to hold the weight of the ceiling and attached roof until you can replace the bottom plate and all the bad studs.
If that plate rests on a sub-floor and it is rotten, and that is what you wnat to replace,the job just got a lot bigger.
Sub floor replacement must match the original thickness, but pressure treated or other replacement material may be used. I have done partial sub floor replaecment, and plate & wall replacement, but not at the same time/building.
Dmail me if you want more assistance. I'm currently working on a house gutted to the studs and beyond in some places.
The sill plate is not on the subfloor but the subfloor will need replaced due to a poor patch job by previous owners. The 2 studs under the window are indeed. Dark due to moistureso they will be replaced as well. The stud nearest the door has carpenter ant damage which I discovered when pulling the paneling and insulation off. I have been undermeath the trailer and the damage has not spread to floor joists. Thank goodness! My other problem area right now is around my water heater and furnace area. I will post pictures as I can on that area, but I am most concerned about the previously stated wall at this time.
So how close to the wall should I place the temporary to the existing wall?
You need enough room to work, so I would allow at least two feet. Nice to have the wall open to finad ALL the damage at one time, tho.
What we have done on the current project house is make a 2x6 strongback and attach it to the ceiling rafters with support legs every six feet apart. Made the legs with laminated 2x4's and slightly longer than required so we could wedge and drive them into position - this insurred that we had lifted the weight off the outside wall.
That way it was safe to totally reconstruct the wall. Between hurricane and termite damage, we have a LOT of work ahead of us, so can share your pain.
Replaced the dining room floor in our restaurant and had to rebuild the sub floor, so know about that, too. Worked from 11PM Saturday thru 8PM Monday - did not want to be closed any longer than required, and Sunday was one of our annual holidays, so just lost Monday's revenue.
Thank you for the info. I thought this was how I would have to do this, but my dad seems to think it should be hired done bc im a woman. Thing is, I am doing all the work myself because A_it fits my budget. B_the sense of satisfaction!
Darius is amazing! I have followed several threads and gleaned lots from her wisdom. I mainly follow homesteading threads but check some others from time to time. I love dg. Its awesome! And I so appreciate your time and feedback. Thank you so much!
Oh I see you have a serious problem in your renovation kitchen process. If that so, why not consult a professional one for this. They can surely help you a lot better and can do less damage with your ideas. But the consequence is that you might spend some extra cash just to pay their labor. But I can assure you that an emergency cash loan can help. I also avail the service and it helps me fix my house improvement when I was struggling financially. Good luck to you dear!
I do not have much experience on that issue but it looks serious to me. I will suggest you to call an expert or a construction company. They have lots of man power and experienced person they will easily solve the issue.[LINK DELETED BY ADMIN]