most of what ive read..and truely grateful for ..seems most growers of amorphs pot their
corms up during vegetative stage..
my thing is..im going to start running out of BIG/HUGE pots for my amorphs soon..
i was thinking of devoting an area of garden to just growing out my amorphs..
i will need to pay attention to drainage,good soil mix,as i do in potted up amorphs..
my thinking is.. not just running out of big pots, but also if im correct in my understanding
the corms need plenty of room so they can put on girth during vegetative growth ..??
is that correct?
there wouldnt be any competition with any other plants/weeds,etc..
garden space isnt a concern for me..
anyone doing this? what are u all's thoughts on this??
If you've got no root problems from other plants/trees then it should be okay. They do grow amongst trees in nature, it's just that as a gardener it's always good to get faster growth out of them. I'm getting that many excess tubers now, especially paeoniifolius and bulbifer I'm going to give them a permanent they garden can take over (down wind from the house of course). Konjac are going to be the next with a population explosion and then probably galbra. It would be good to see a garden of them all growing together.
im jealous u can grow them out where your at in australia..sigh..
i too am looking to create a situation for the corms to grow fastest,and attain largest size in
a growing season..
there would be no obstruction from any other plant/roots from trees,etc where they'd be planted..
im going to do a test this summer.. im going to leave the 4 i have potted up..potted..
and others out in garden..see if either does better than the other..:)
All you need to do is pack all your gear, jump into your car. Drive down to Nicaragua and you'll be pretty close to my climate. Or the north coast of Columbia.
To save you that long drive, could you raise up the level of the garden (look up hugelkultur) for good drainage? At the end of the growing season cover over the ground with a real lot of compost/mulch). Put a good waterproof cover over that and leave it for the winter. Dry soil is a very good insulator and the mulch will generate a little warmth. That could be enough to get the tubers through the cold weather. I don't know how cold it gets where you are or how much the cold can penetrate, but it's a thought.
lol.. i think id rather live in australia.. :) but id be a beach bum..
guess id have to watch out for salt water gaters..and great whites though..
i wont mind digging the corms in fall.. plus i think it would ensure they dont rot
in the ground..
we had a really mild winter this last.. i think it was a fluke..???who knows..
good idea on the burming up soil..ive thought of trying that with a few thai giants
and see if they over winter that way..they are so finicky with overwintering..
i set aside area (10'X8') raised bed..using water filled 2 1/2 gal water jugs as the bed sides..
for keeping soil warm at nite.. i used compost,shredded leaves,coir,and alot of perlite as the soil
3 of the bigger corms have veg spikes up about 6".. smaller ones are popping up now too..:) yea !!
i have 4 still in big pots ..and im not going to disturb them..
heres pic of one leafing out
being a corm..im guessing they need phoshate and potash replentish???
im using a compost tea of alphalfa meal/rabbit manure..
and a water soluable fert 15:8:30 along with kelp powder..
In my experience, if you want maximum tuber growth you need to follow a fert regime such as I will detail below. First know that the leaf being produced this season is based on the nutrients that were available to form the tuber LAST season. What this means is that the care and feeding you provide this season will determine the growth that you see next season. That is not to say that what you do now won't matter for THIS season - it does, but the greatest impact of what you do this season will be seen next season, especially in terms of blooming or lack thereof.
Now, the fert regime: On emergence, be sure you are applying a fert with an analysis similar to 18-6-8 (higher nitrogen than P or K). This fert is used until about mid season, when you'll switch to something akin to a 14-14-14. When the growing season is just beginning to wane (say about a month to 6 weeks before onset of dormancy), switch again to a high phosphorus fertilizer akin to 14-26-6. Using a regime like this, I managed to distort or break pots open with the vigorous tuber growth that resulted.
A caution about putting tubers in the ground - the old tuber (last year's) is completely consumed and a new tuber formed in the current season. Now, the important part - the new tuber is formed LOWER in the ground than the old tuber was. Essentially, the plant is burying its tuber deeper each season. As the old tuber is consumed, the plant gradually subsides into the area previously occupied by the old tuber. As the new tuber is formed, it develops at a lower position in the ground than the previous tuber was located. So when you go to dig it up where you remember planting it, it will not be there, but lower in the soil, raising the risk of cutting into it inadvertently with your shovel or other digging instrument.
thanks lariann.. :)
btw..your robodora's are doing great.. hoping to see maybe 6' this yr !!!! :)
they overwintered really well..and are putting out new..bigger leaves..yea!!!
reason i planted some amorphs right in soil..was my concern/thinking that the corms need
much bigger pots..so roots and new growth have room..
i only have konjac..so far.. and biggest ones were at start of this yr.. 8-9" so..not huge
yet.. thats cool on your corms on some of your hyper growing corms.. !!! :)
i will follow regimen you suggest.. im always curious as to growth of corm under the vegy
growth..have to restrain myself from digging in there to see whats going on..LOL
thanks for insight on digging.. i do tend to dig deep and at distance..it would be sad to have a
fantastic corm..only to spade it.. sigh..
looking foward to many yrs with these facinating plants !!!!