I am looking for a plant software. I need it to list a plant, care of the plant, propagating the plant, zone for the plant, inside or outside plant and if possible where the seeds are in the plant. I need it to tell me just about everything there is to know about the plant? Does the roots rot easily? What bugs to look for? Needs full sun or full shade? Pots of garden needed? Likes Bud Light with Jack Daniels of Miller Light with Jamison's (LOL)?
I just do not want to kill another plant because it is not to be watered in the winter, or it needs more water, or it likes a lot of fertilizer, or that is should be outside... and when to move it inside. I want to keep my plants alive (go figure)!!!
I do not need to design anything!! Help... please!
I think above you just described Davesgarden.com. That's where I go to find that info. I just wish there was a way to hard copy the info into my own book for just the plants that I have.
I agree, between the info in Plant Files and the forums where you can ask for advice I think spending some time here will be better than any software to help you learn how to take care of your plants.
Thanks for your input but even Dave's, doesn't give me what I need. Example.... I bought a Euphorbia capsaintemariensis from Desert Garden that I promptly killed. I looked on this form for info. Did not find this on exactly but find PlantFiles: Euphorbia / Euphorbia decaryi var. capsaintemariensis. A picture by palmbob was on the side so I knew I was on the right track! This is what is listed on the page.
Family: Euphorbiaceae (yoo-for-bee-AY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Euphorbia (yoo-FOR-bee-uh) (Info)
Species: decaryi var. capsaintemariensis
Synonym:Euphorbia decaryi var. cap-saintmariensis
Alpines and Rock Gardens
Cactus and Succulents
under 6 in. (15 cm)
6-12 in. (15-30 cm)
6-9 in. (15-22 cm)
9-12 in. (22-30 cm)
12-15 in. (30-38 cm)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)
Sun to Partial Shade
Handling plant may cause skin irritation or allergic reaction
Late Summer/Early Fall
Grown for foliage
Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping
Suitable for growing in containers
Soil pH requirements:
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)
6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)
From leaf cuttings
From seed; germinate in vitro in gelatin, agar or other medium
Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed
Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove and collect seeds
Properly cleaned, seed can be successfully stored
No where does it say not to water in the winter or how much to water it. So I watered it like every other week about 4 oz. It rotted.
Dave's says that can propagate it form a leaf or seeds but doesn't tell you HOW to do that. And when I have asked how to do something on this form I am almost always referred back to the plantfiles that doesn't tell me what I want to know (((ie: care of the plant, propagating the plant, and if possible where the seeds are in the plant))). So I am full circle. Is there another place I should be looking on this form for the info I am seeking?
That's what the forums are for. Just go to the appropriate forum, say you need info on how to care for your new plant. someone on here will have that plant, have had it for years and will be so glad to teach you. I dont think what you desire has ever been compiled yet. It's kinda like marble with gold flecks. It would be nice to have but it doesn't exist.
You are wonderful!! I really need someone like you with more experience than I have on certain plants. I have been a avid grower for years but sometimes it is all so confusing. The internet gives so much conflicting info. That is why I joined the forms. Most folks are very helpful.
So then let me ask you... I got a piece of crown of thrones unrooted. I used cactus soil with extra sand and put it in my inside patio. It flowered but did not root. So I moved it outside to full sun about 6 weeks ago. No change. Will you explain to me how to root it or if I am on the right track what I should do next!
The flowering was probably already "programmed in" by the plant before it was cut from the mother plant. Ive never rooted that plant but most plants that I do root, I do it this way. Any cutting you want to root must have two nodes. That's the joint looking thing where leaves or roots will come out. Cutting should not be any longer than you need to get two nodes. The farther the nutrients have to travel, the less likely they will get all the way there. Remove any leaves except maybe 1 or two at the very top. Dip the root end of the cutting into water and then into root powder, Rootone is the brand I use. Get it anywhere plant stuff is sold. Shake off the excess powder leaving on as much as you can so don't shake too hard. Use a stick or a pencil to poke a planting hole in you pot of soil. I use potting soil. Carefully place the powdered end of the cutting into the hole without knocking off the powder. Use the pencil to firm up the soil around the cutting. Be sure to place the cutting deep enough so that the bottom node is below the soil surface. You can put 1 cutting per cell of a 6 pk or 6 cuttings in a 6" pot. I like to root in the larger pot because it needs to remain moist and it is easier to maintain that in a larger pot. Once the cuttings are placed, water from the bottom by setting the pot in a saucer of water for about an hour. Then find a plastic bag that will fit over the pot and put it on the pot like a little tent. It should fit fairly snug_ly. The purpose of the tent is to maintain the humidity of the pot and keep the cuttings from drying out. Dont leave the pot sitting in a saucer full of water. with the tent on, you will not need to water again until the plant rootsw and starts to take up water thru the roots. This could be a month for some plants. Plant the pot in bright shade outdoors if the weather is warm and indoors under strong flourescent light until you see the plant putting out new growth. Taking the tent off too soon can ruin all your hard work. You may remove it to check on things but replace it when you finish. Some plants don't need all this trouble but this is more reliable if the plant is hard to root.
Some things you can just stick in the ground and some you can root in a glass of water on the windowsill but things that are harder to root I do this way. There is a propagation forum on DG so if you need more or have questions just head on over there and ask. Best of luck. Cam
Any cutting you want to root must have two nodes. That's the joint looking thing where leaves or roots will come out.--->>> The clown of thorns cutting is 18 inches and the leave come from the top. Where are the nodes? Maybe at the thorns themselves? If they are at the thorns then the cutting wouldn't even be one inch.
I like to root in the larger pot because it needs to remain moist and it is easier to maintain that in a larger pot. --->> Point Taken
Then find a plastic bag that will fit over the pot and put it on the pot like a little tent.--->>> Every time I do that I get mold. So I found a small glass fish tank with a lid and light and put it next to the window inside. That seems to work well.
Taking the tent off too soon can ruin all your hard work. You may remove it to check on things but replace it when you finish.-->> Point Taken
There is a propagation forum on DG so if you need more or have questions just head on over there and ask.--->>> This is the Propagation Form!
Best of luck. Cam--->> Thank you bunches!!
If the cutting has many nodes, just take a cutting of about 6". You would only need a longer cutting if the nodes were very far apart as they are on larger shrubs. It looks in the photo that your plant has many nodes close together but I cannot see it really well.
If you use the bag, you must use very strong light to prevent mold. The aquarium should work fine. and
DUH, I did not notice which forum on which I had posted. Your patience is appreciated.
That is a really pretty plant.
When I owned and operated a commercial greenhouse in Nebraska during the 80's, I started many plants from cuttings after purchasing the "mother" plant. I specialized in succulent and drought-resistant plants for both indoors and outdoors.
Back then, I mixed my own rooting media that I use even now. It consist of 1 part peatmoss and 1part perlite. It holds just enough moisture for cactus and succulent cuttings. I also used a rooting powder. However, the important first step when rooting cactus and succulents is allowing the cut end to dry and callous over, or it will tend to rot. I leave cuttings to dry for a week before sticking it in the rooting mix. The mix should be damp, not wet. Place the cutting in a plastic bag but if the bag gets condesation, open it to air out. .
Rhapsody, Euphorbia cultivars are succulents so need to dry out somewhat between watering. They require even less water during the winter when some go dormant even when grown in the house. It is controlled by lenght of natural daylight.