Photo by Melody
It's time now to VOTE in our 14th annual photo contest! Voting ends November 7, so be sure to cast your votes for your favorites in each category here. Good luck to all contestants!

Beginner Vegetables: Cabbage and Carrots

Communities > Forums > Beginner Vegetables
bookmark
Forum: Beginner VegetablesReplies: 17, Views: 144
Add to Bookmarks
-
AuthorContent

Chillybean

Chillybean
Near Central, IA
(Zone 5a)

June 18, 2012
5:21 PM

Post #9170650

The first photo shows what should have been broccoli. Somehow a couple cabbage (At least I am guessing this is what it is) seemed to have gotten mixed in from the starts we bought at the nursery. I've never grown cabbage and very rarely ever bought a whole head from the store, so have no clue when it is ready. These were planted in the last week of April, so about how long before they can be harvested? I am thinking of making cole slaw with it. That's usually how I buy my cabbage. :)

We planted an heirloom carrot, a Parisian type, but not many have come up at all, so I am not eager to yank any just to see what they are. Since there appears to be two different plants, which one is the carrot? And out of curiosity, what is the other, if not a carrot? I had a bunch of darker ones spread through the gardens that had a carrot-type leaf, but I pulled those and they were not carrots.

Thank you for any help.

Thumbnail by Chillybean   Thumbnail by Chillybean   Thumbnail by Chillybean
Click an image for an enlarged view.

gardenworm2
Standish, MI

June 19, 2012
7:55 AM

Post #9171422

Your cabbage looks like it is just forming the head. You should wait until the head has completely formed and is firm to the touch. One problem that you do have is the presence of cabbage worms. Or at least it looks like that is your problem. You will notice either white or yellow, small butterflies fluttering around the garden and often they are in groups. They lay the eggs and when they hatch the larvae or the worm that you are looking for is a green worm about 1 to 3 inches long. They usually eat the leaf from the bottom so look there, but that does not always hold true.

Carrots often will show orange at the ground level when they are forming and sometimes you can tell by watching at that point how big they are getting. But this is not a fool proof method because what is forming under the ground in not always what you see at that level. But it may help you know when or how close they are to harvest. Understand that you will not always be able to see the orange so again this is not a fool proof method.


This message was edited Jun 19, 2012 11:02 AM

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

June 19, 2012
8:40 AM

Post #9171480

Give that cabbage at least 6-8 more weeks to form a head. Spray it with some Daconil for the cabbage worms.

Carrots usually take a minimum of 100 days to maturity, from seeds, depending on the variety. You can check the size, by sticking your finger down into the dirt at the base, and feeling around the "shoulders" of the carrot. It should be anywhere from nickel to quarter size diameter, depending on which variety you planted.

I Googled your Parisienne variety and found they are short, wide and squatty carrots. So, your shoulders will be wider, and the maturity time should be way less than 100 days.

Pic#1 Parisienne carrot picture from Google images
Pic #2 (My) Cabbage at 4 months, after transplanting out, and almost a full head.
Pic #2 (My) Cabbages at 2 months after transplanting out
Pic #3 (My) Three cabbages close to maturity at about 60 days after transplanting

The cabbage head should be tight, again, depending on the variety you planted. You may start harvesting some of the loose outer leaves, but leave at least one -two layers of leaves around the head that's forming.

Linda

This message was edited Jun 19, 2012 10:47 AM

Thumbnail by Gymgirl   Thumbnail by Gymgirl   Thumbnail by Gymgirl   Thumbnail by Gymgirl
Click an image for an enlarged view.

HoneybeeNC

HoneybeeNC
Charlotte, NC
(Zone 7b)

June 19, 2012
9:41 AM

Post #9171557

My broccoli last spring took 84 days from sowing to harvest. Cabbage and broccoli look similar when young.

Carrots, dill, fennel, parsley and a few others have similar looking leaves.

Be vary careful of leaves that look like parsley because poison hemlock is in the same family.

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/3785/
Horseshoe
Efland, NC
(Zone 7a)

June 19, 2012
11:24 AM

Post #9171663

Gymgirl:
"Give that cabbage at least 6-8 more weeks to form a head. Spray it with some Daconil for the cabbage worms."

Linda, Daconil is a fungicide and will have no affect on cabbage worms. I think you may have meant to suggest Bt (Thuricide or Dipel).

Nice looking cabbage pics, by the way!

Shoe






Chillybean

Chillybean
Near Central, IA
(Zone 5a)

June 19, 2012
11:35 AM

Post #9171674

Thank you for the replies. We are striving for organic gardening and have been trying to catch those white moths. Any time I look at the undersides of leaves, I am not seeing any bugs, but do see the damage. :/

I'll see if there's any orange near the base.

We didn't plant any parsley, fennel or dill, only carrots that should have leaves like that. Well, of what we purposely planted. We have such poor soil here... but that's another issue.

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

June 19, 2012
11:39 AM

Post #9171676

Thanks Shoe! I was trying hard to remember which was which!

Chillybean,
If you don't see worms, it may be pillbugs. They were doing a number on my greenery last season. You hardly ever catch them in the act, or on the leaves cause they work under cover of darkness.

I sprinkle SLUGGO PLUS on the perimeter of my growing patch. That ends that!
Horseshoe
Efland, NC
(Zone 7a)

June 19, 2012
1:16 PM

Post #9171781

Looks like caterpillar damage to me, chillybean. And those little green caterpillars are very hard to see sometimes since they blend in so easily with the green color of cabbage. It doesn't look like pill bug damage to me since they tend to go for younger plants/seedlings that are much more tender. I'd go with Bt (which is considered an "organic" product) or diatomaceous earth (DE).

Of course now slugs could be contributing to that damage as well, especially if your garden is damp and/or shady. Ditto what Linda said on the Sluggo plus in that case!

Shoe

HoneybeeNC

HoneybeeNC
Charlotte, NC
(Zone 7b)

June 20, 2012
7:02 AM

Post #9172616

Chillybean - the caterpillars you are trying to spot are the same color as the cabbage leaves. If you let your eyes slowly look along the veins, you will spot them. Once you get used to how they look, it will get easier to see them.
idealpeggy
Lexington, KY
(Zone 6b)

June 20, 2012
9:47 AM

Post #9172858

We got those *&$#@ caterpillars on our broccoli and kale. It took me a while to find them too. They are the EXACT color of the leaves and they lie along the spine of the leaf, so they are really hard to see. They completely destroyed all of my broccoli, which I had raised from seed. I even covered it with cheesecloth and they got underneath it! I uncovered it one day, and out flew a white butterfly! They lay their eggs on the underneath side of the leaves. They're called Cabbage White Butterflies. I haven't been able to research them on DG, also didn't get any responses to my question in the Pest forum. They seem to be leaving my kale alone now, and it's coming back, but the broccoli is too far gone, I think. I was thinking of replanting for fall, but I'll be darned if I'm going to go to all that trouble just to feed caterpillars! I also do not use pesticides on my veggies. I guess I'll just not plant anything that they like! Since they are gone off my kale, I'm wondering if their life cycle is complete or if they just got tired of kale or full of broccoli. . . grumble, grumble.

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

June 20, 2012
10:35 AM

Post #9172915

You'll have far less of them on a fall crop...all last fall, I pulled off only about 10 worms from over 25 broccoli plants...

The Bt will work. I mixed up something called Garden Dust (HD or Lowe's) into a liquid form and sprayed that. It worked, too.

Don't give up...

Something else that worked for me, too, was to segregate a lone plant as a sacrifice to the Cabbage Moth. It could lay as many eggs as it wanted to on the one plant I didn't spray...it worked, too.

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

June 20, 2012
10:38 AM

Post #9172919

a thousand words...

Thumbnail by Gymgirl   Thumbnail by Gymgirl
Click an image for an enlarged view.

gardadore
Saylorsburg, PA
(Zone 6a)

June 20, 2012
8:45 PM

Post #9173676

I finally gave up last year battling the cabbage worms (molasses added to water helped somewhat but had to constantly be resprayed after rains) and purchased a Pop-up tent from Gardener's Supply for the Broccoli and Brussels sprouts. It was the best investment ever. They grew beautifully and not a worm to be found. I did have to sprinkle some Sluggo around for the slugs as they were in the soil. I have just finished harvesting the first round of broccoli for this year and was again delighted to have such beautiful, clean heads. The tents offered last year were 3' X 3' or 3' x 6' and fit my garden perfectly. The new tall ones this year are 4' x 4' or 4' x 8' which are a little wide unless I move the walking paths. But I am tempted to get more since I can use them for other cabbages and partenocarpic squashes ( don't need to be fertilized by bees) to avoid the squash bugs and borers. The tall ones are on sale at the moment at what I consider to be a very reasonable price. Here is the link: http://www.gardeners.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-Gardeners-Site/default/Search-Show?q=pop
idealpeggy
Lexington, KY
(Zone 6b)

June 21, 2012
7:31 AM

Post #9174104

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm thinking it's too late for this crop. If I redo for fall, I may try one of these methods. It's just frustrating to go to all that trouble and expense and not get a harvest!

HoneybeeNC

HoneybeeNC
Charlotte, NC
(Zone 7b)

June 21, 2012
7:46 AM

Post #9174130

idealpeggy - unfortunately, crop failure is part of home-gardening. This year, voles have almost completely eaten my sweet potato slips. If they keep it up, I'll not have a crop this year. I look at it this way - if they are eating the sweet potatoes, they are not eating the beans! Two summers ago they ate the beans, and left the sweet potatoes alone.

They are also eating the parsley - maybe it's to flavor the sweet potatoes?

What I need is a cat that's a good "mouser!"

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

June 21, 2012
8:17 AM

Post #9174175

It occurred to me the cat that insists on using my yard as his personal latrine, has also been a good "mouser". But, I could be persuaded to ship him to NC...
gardadore
Saylorsburg, PA
(Zone 6a)

June 21, 2012
8:33 AM

Post #9174209

I ordered the 4 x 4 last night and will use it somewhere (?!) to grow the partenocarpic zucchini squash (Partenon) and some other things that don't require pollination. Eggplants and tomatoes are also self pollinating so I may try those next year as the potato beetle is going after those and laying eggs at the moment. Hopefully the tent will also discourage the flea beetles.

HoneybeeNC

HoneybeeNC
Charlotte, NC
(Zone 7b)

June 21, 2012
8:41 AM

Post #9174227

[quote]But, I could be persuaded to ship him to NC...[/quote]

LOL!

You cannot post until you register and login.


Other Beginner Vegetables Threads you might be interested in:

SubjectThread StarterRepliesLast Post
Welcome to the Beginner Vegetables forum! dave 24 Mar 24, 2013 6:54 PM
Tomato problems jkehl 40 Oct 15, 2010 1:06 PM
starting a vegie garden wilflower 28 May 24, 2012 2:38 PM
Nasturtiums and squash? Terry 41 Mar 24, 2007 8:07 PM
Bees Please jkehl 95 Apr 7, 2013 7:37 AM


We recommend Firefox
Overwhelmed? There's a lot to see here. Try starting at our homepage.

[ Home | About | Advertise | Media Kit | Mission | Featured Companies | Submit an Article | Terms of Use | Tour | Rules | Privacy Policy | Contact Us ]

Back to the top

Copyright © 2000-2014 Dave's Garden, an Internet Brands company. All Rights Reserved.
 

Hope for America