It is my understanding that the difference is the age of the plant. Monstera deliciosa starts out in its juvenile form with smaller leaves which lack the deep 'cuts' of the more mature plant. When it's grown in an area where it can be planted in the ground or at least stay outside, it is more likely to reach the mature form.
Theoretically, yes, to a degree. The 2 plants may be different cultivars, so they may never be identical, but I think yours should eventually acquire a similar form, a form with the larger, more deeply cut leaves. However, this all depends on your ability to keep it healthy and alive that long, and I don't know how long that will take. My guess is that your parents may have started out with the more mature plant.
I think most of the houseplants of this type probably end up dead (for one reason or another) long before they reach a more mature form. People loose interest or get busy and forget to tend to them or stick them in too dark a corner such that they get leggy, etc, etc. Not saying that you can't keep it alive and healthy for years, just that we humans don't often keep our focus that long.
I would suggest you do some research on monstera deliciosa, online perhaps to see if you can find more in depth information on the subject. I did a very quick, cursory look hoping to get lucky but don't have time to do it justice. Wish I did. Have to get some housework done. Maybe later. Best Wishes!
This link shows philodendron pertusum as a synonym, which is what I saw on numerous web pages. Monstera deliciosa is the correct botanical name though.
If you look at the photos at the link above, you will see some which look like yours included along with those that look like your parents' plant. The leaves can eventually reach widths of 3ft or more, although probably not without being outside or at least in a greenhouse.
I also found the following page very helpful. It discusses the juvenile & mature leaf issue & indicates you may only have to wait a few years to see the mature leaves begin to form. (I just wasn't sure as to timeline.) Near the bottom of the page at this link is a recipe for what they believe is the best potting medium for this plant. Good soil, proper watering, and proper lighting are among the most important things for the health and longevity of the plant. Link: http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Monstera deliciosa large pc...
one of the cultivars is much smaller the borgnasia (not spelled right) that may be what you have. personally I have both and the smaller is much more dense in its foilage and is quite attractive. may notbe impressive like the deliciosa but still gorgeous.
The soil it's planted in I have made myself with normal soil in a bag, lots of barkchips and perlite. As of now, it thrives and is producing lots of new leafs and roots. The picture above is a bit old. It has a much bigger pot now. I'm quite happy with the plant and think it looks great, but I would really like to have one which gets these BIG leafs.
Would it be possible to, ehh, what is it called when one takes a small bit of another plant and make it grow in another pot? But, would that be possible with my parents plant?
While borsigiana is listed as being smaller, it's leaves still grow to 2ft in width (as opposed to 3ft for the species). I will post pics later.
It's great to hear that your plant is doing well. Sounds like you have the right combination of lightening, soil, water, etc.
It is possible to reproduce the plant from a stem cutting. However, air layering would be much 'safer'. With a cutting, there is something of a race condition between the time needed for the cutting to make life sustaining roots and the time when the leaves of the cutting wilt and die due to the lack of roots. If it is unable to make roots before the leaves die, the rooting process will likely fail, and you will need to start over with another cutting. Each successive attempt thus whittles away at the stem of the parent plant.
With air layering, you induce/encourage part of the plant to make roots without actually severing that part from the original or parent plant (until after the roots have been produced). Air layering is extremely easy and successful with most vines, because they are inclined by nature to produce new roots anywhere the vine/stem comes into contact with soil (among other substances such as bark, leaf mold, etc).
You can research air layering for more info. There are relatively inexpensive air layering kits available; however, you can accomplish it with very common products as follows. Look along the plants stem for the 'joints' where the leaves or leaf petioles emerge. From the top or terminal bud of the plant, you will need to move down the stem far enough to leave at least one healthy leaf in tact. At the point where you plan to do the air layering, remove the leaf from that 'joint'. This is where the new roots will grow.
Most instructions will say to cut a small notch into the plant at this point as further incentive to make roots. As any cut invites invading organisms and rotting and as it should not be necessary with this type of plant, I would strong suggest that you try the process 1st w/o making a cut. If roots do not form, you can always go back in, make the cut, and try again, so there is no downside to trying it 1st w/o the cut.
Soak a large handful of spagnum moss, squeeze gently to remove most of the water. Wrap the spagnum moss around the 'joint'. It should cover the joint completely and extend all the way around the stem 1-2in thick. Cut a piece of plastic wrap large enough to wrap around the stem and spagnum moss. Wrap the plastic wrap around the stem and spagnum moss and secure above and below the moss with twist ties (connect several together as needed), tie wraps, that velcro plant tie stuff, or other product that will hold it securely in place. This should look a bit like those candies that are wrapped with a twist on either side (like a miniature tootsie roll). Keep an eye on the spagnum both to watch for root formation and to make sure it doesn't dry out. When substantial roots are visible through the plastic, sever the stem below the roots, remove the plastic, and pot up the newly rooted cutting.
Some instructions will say to cover the plastic with another material (aluminum foil works well) to block out the light. I've done it both with and w/o the foil and had success both ways. If you use the foil, just be sure to remove it periodically to check to be sure the moss does not dry out.
I have the same "problem" with my plant as the MadsHilde asked. I bought my plant a year ago. It was describe as a swiss cheese plant. I loked after that name, and I learned that is a monstera. It had got about 4-5 leaves, and it was about 20cm tall. Wasn't any cut or hole on the leaves.
The time passed and it grown well. Not too bushy, but I learned how to make more bushy.
From the begining it produce a lot leaves during the year. Now it has got about 12 leaves.
It hasn't got any cut or hole yet. I heard from other people it may takes 1-2 years to get them.
Half year ago I bought a book about house plants and I found that two similar houseplants which are maybe one of my plant. But I am not sure which is mine.
About Monstera the book sayes its a bigger, but slower grower, one year produce just 1 or 2 leaves. And its more horizontal grower.
About the philodendron pertusum sayes its a climbing philodendron and much more faster than the other, but smaller.
So I think mine is rather philodnendron pertusum than Monstera.
Its not problem, i happy with it, just I wonder which is mine. And I would ask MadsHilde -because it seems has got same pland as mine- how long does it takes get cuts and holes on the leaves? I try to upload pictures about my lovely plant.
(Sorry for my english I just speak a little bit)
The first picture was take after buying, and the following twos show the leaf closer and roots -for identical the plant- and the last photo is about 4 month old photo.
What do you think? What I have got?
The holes and splits develop when the plant is climbing up a solid surface - give your plants a stout pole, or board to climb on and the splits will appear. Also, very bright light, and a heavy feeding schedule will hurry-up the progress.