I have a leaky Y-shaped hose bib that I need to replace. It doesn't look that difficult, and I'm willing to tackle it, but I'm up against a brick wall. His name is Joe, and he says I can't do it the way I think I can. This is in the pump house for our well. Also in there is the pressure tank. And a switch on the back wall. I think the switch, if turned off, will make it possible to change out the leaky faucet, by stopping the water from running. He says it will screw up (his technical term) the pump, and thereby destroy the entire system.
I suggested that I turn off the switch, and see if the water stops, but he says the same problems will occur.
I don't see it. The electric goes off occasionally, and I've never had to re-prime the pump or do anything. In fact, it never occured to me that I should.
I can't afford to lose this outlet, it's the way I water the gardens and the livestock. Both would be upset if the water stopped.
catmad, a leaky hose bibb has nothing to do with the electric part of it. No worries and yes, you can do this.
But first, is it leaking at a joint where the hose bibb connects to the water line? Or is it leaking from the main outlet (where you would screw on the water hose)? OR, is it leaking where the "turn on/off" lever or handle is?
It could be something as simple as replacing a washer. It could be as easy as removing the entire hose bibb and screwing in another.
Any way to take a pic and post it?
No way would I pay 200 bucks to replace something like this when you can do it much much cheaper.
Well, Hi Shoe:)
Fancy meeting you here. It's leaking at the handle, which I can't replace (I tried that first) because the shank it fits on is stripped. That was the first thing I tried. It really just doesn't turn off, and I'm hoping that I can just replace the whole thing. I need to take a light with me and look at where it connects. Oh, and I said it wrong, the "Y" is a part I put on so I could water in two directions. It's now the way I keep water from running forever.
The concern about the electric seems to be that if I flip the switch off, it will Cause Choas, and we will never have water again.
I shall attempt photographic documentation *G*, but don't hold your breath...
I'm no expert on wells & pumps (or electricity for that matter) so take this for what it's worth, but it strikes me that if cutting the electricity would cause chaos and you'd never have water again, the power outages you've had in the past would have caused major problems (unless you have the pump hooked up to a generator that kicks on if the power goes out). I don't see how purposely turning the power off with the switch would have any different impact on the pump than the power cutting out due to acts of God/nature/electric company.
ecrane3, that's where I'm coming from, too. Power went out again the other day, and there nothing was done to restart, or prime the pump, and we still have water. The pump hasn't burned up, and the water still flows :)
I'll go talk to the nice people at Ace before I do it, but do it, I will. He need never know. I'll tell him the Water Faeries must have visited...
I don't know if you have done this job yet but you have some options and it shouldn't be that hard.
It sounds like the packing is bad and the splines that hold the handle are stripped. You should be able to get replacement parts for faucet. That way you don't need to unscrew/ unsolder the hose bib.
Hopefully when it was installed they also installed a shut off for it. Any way the job starts with you shutting the water off from the bib. IF there is a shut of close it and ignore shutting the pump off. If the only way to turn the water off is to shut the pump off you should be fine, but you'll have to drain the pressure tank until there is no pressure left or you are going to get wet. Just turn the hose on until it stops running.
If you are going the repair route unscrew the nut that's under where the handle goes. The may be one or two depending on the brand. The first one holds the packing which keeps the water from leaking around the stem. If there is a second one that holds the guts in. Unscrew that one and then you can unscrew the stem and replace it.
If you are replacing the whole thing then make sure you use tape or pipe dope on the treads or it will leak. If it's soldered get back to me here and I'll try to give you instructions.
My apologies for not replying, I've been away and computer access sparse. Doug, I'm glad I didn;t tackle this before I left, your info is a big help. I'll gather my trusty flashlight and really look at the whole set-up and report back. I'll try for pics, but no promises. I can't seem to get them from point A to point B *G*.
This will be after I tackle cleaning up the freezer that tried to burn up while I was gone, and the room it's in. Sigh. No-one noticed...