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Organic Gardening: ORGANIC FUNGICIDES?

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Forum: Organic GardeningReplies: 6, Views: 94
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juhur7

juhur7
Anderson, IN
(Zone 6a)

July 19, 2012
1:17 PM

Post #9211607

Well i know this has had to of been asked before,I believe I have even read it asked here sometime previously;Anyone have a good organic fungicide that works?
May be this time I will remember to save the replies!!

tapla

tapla
Bay City, MI
(Zone 6a)

July 19, 2012
1:23 PM

Post #9211614

Add 2 chamomile tea bags and a tablespoon of sulfured molasses to a gallon of hot water and let stand for a good while - like overnight. Use full strength in spritzer or pressure sprayer.

Al

greenhouse_gal

greenhouse_gal
Southern NJ
United States
(Zone 7a)

July 19, 2012
2:04 PM

Post #9211642

Al, what is that good for? Brown rot, early and late blight...?

tapla

tapla
Bay City, MI
(Zone 6a)

July 20, 2012
3:10 PM

Post #9212675

Most home remedies that are aimed toward fungal control are only effective as prophylactics and not fixatives. Since it's action is topical, I'd think it would only be variably effective against infections that tend to me more localized, like leaf spot as opposed to the damping off group of fungi.

I assume you're asking about brown rot such as that which affects stone fruits as opposed to wood? I'm sorry - I have to say I don't know in either case, and I don't wish to offer false hope. I know it can't hurt to try.

I CAN imagine it as variably effective against blights if used prophylactically (tomatoes?). If you're asking about tomatoes, I think avoiding wetting the foliage if possible when watering, and watering carefully so no soil is splashed up onto the foliage is a very good practice for maters in the ground AND containers.

Don't you just hate it when your plants come down with something?

Al

greenhouse_gal

greenhouse_gal
Southern NJ
United States
(Zone 7a)

July 20, 2012
6:27 PM

Post #9212847

Thanks, Al. We do have a lot of trouble with brown rot on our peaches, and possible early blight on our tomatoes. The tomatoes are mulched and watered via a drip irrigation system, so unless it rains the leaves don't get wet. Some varieties do seem to be more susceptible than others.

What's worse than diseases are the critters. I haven't been able to grow direct-sown chard for a while now; something - possibly sowbugs - keeps eating them off when the leaves are very tiny and tender.

juhur7

juhur7
Anderson, IN
(Zone 6a)

August 7, 2012
5:30 PM

Post #9233531

I get small brown bean beetles everywhere,and the mushrooms of about eight non edible types that show up everywhere including the tree parasitic types. I like cooking the giant puffballs into gravy,the ancients use to slice them for bread .Personally I prefer the bread as it is!
I could stand doing without the puffs as to remedy my fungus problems.!
Calalily
Deep South Coastal, TX
(Zone 10a)

August 30, 2012
6:18 AM

Post #9259084

I've tried the chamomile tea, it "sometimes" works to prevent damping off.
A preventative spray of 1 part milk to 9 parts water works for squash, but only if you faithfully keep spraying every week, more often if it rains.
Neem oil works both as a preventative and also a curative for powdery mildew. Don't spray in the heat of day and don't follow with a copper/sulphur spray for at least 2 weeks.
Copper and sulfur are both allowed in organic gardening, be careful as some plants do not like sulphur sprays, especially cucurbits.

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