Where can I order seed storing bags? :)

Staten Island, NY(Zone 7b)

Thanks! :)

Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

Got to Staples or any office supply store and get a box of coin envelopes, that's what I use!

Staten Island, NY(Zone 7b)

Thank you, Tommy! :)

(Pam) Warren, CT(Zone 5b)

I get the small zip-locks that Walmart sells in the craft dept. I think they are meant for beads. Also Diane's Seeds sells small glassine bags that small seeds don't stick to with static cling. I put the seeds in that, then fold it over and put it in a Zip-lock or coin envelope. I find that the coin envelopes-- which I also have and sometimes use, have 2 drawbacks: some seeds can leak out even if sealed, and once you seal it, you can't open and re-close. If you don't want to use all the seeds at once you have to put them in a new envie.

Hope this helps...

Pam

Staten Island, NY(Zone 7b)

Thanks Pam!
But I had read its not good to put the seeds into plastic because air cannot get to them. How can they be stored in the fridge/ freezer w/O
Worry of damage? Thanks! Carol

Durhamville, NY(Zone 5b)

I don't think lack of air is a problem because the better seed companies put their seeds in foil barrier packets. What I don't like about little plastic bags for seeds is static cling. The plastic builds up static and the seeds stick to the inside of the bag. No amount of shaking will get them fall out either.

Staten Island, NY(Zone 7b)

Thanks Doug!
So maybe I can wrap seeds in foil then put in plastic bags? Thanks! :)

(Pam) Warren, CT(Zone 5b)

That's why I get the glassine ones for the little seeds

Opp, AL(Zone 8b)

I like to use paper from junk mail to fold into envelopes. Free, abundant, easy to make, easy to open/close.

Staten Island, NY(Zone 7b)

Howdy all!
All great answers! I'm going thru seed catalogs as they come in. :)
So many plans!!! Where can I find the glassine envelopes? Thanks! Carol

(Pam) Warren, CT(Zone 5b)

http://www.dianeseeds.com/glassine-seed-envelopes.html

Casper, WY(Zone 4a)

I use Walmarts craft ziplock bags for mideum to large seeds. For small and dustlike seeds I use glassine envelopes to avoid them sticking to the sides from static electricity. The glassine envelope is then placed in the ziplock bag.

Plastic does not hurt seeds as long as the seeds are stored correctly---in the fridge ofcourse.

Delhi, LA

I save a few of the small pill bottles when the medicine is gone. Usually keep four or five on hand. My diabetic strips now come in small snap top plastic bottle. They are really great. I also save a couple of the big perscription bottles for larger seed. Big quantities of seed I save, like green beans, I put in a glass jar. I put the smaller bottles in a gallon zip lock bag to keep them together and all go in the freezer.

Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

Plastic bags can cause fungus due to dampness, the plastic bags the seed companies use are air free also, I use cheap paper envelopes that I can right the date, names, flowering times, colour and any other relevent info like planting time, soil type etc, store these in shoe box and place in COOL dark place, I never put seeds in fridge unless they call for a period of very cold like in Delphiniums etc.
Planting at the right time of year gives better results rather that man made interference with nature but others will disagree, I am giving my own methods that work for me and over the years has been used by many gardeners.
Once you find a method that suites you it will become second nature and works out well.
Good luck, WeeNel.

Casper, WY(Zone 4a)

WeeNel
I think you have it backwards. Plastic bags prevent dampness, unlike paper envelopes.

I also do use snaptop prescription bottles for larger seeds.

Doug, that is why I use glassine envelopes inside plastic bag due to static electricity/cling.

Below are my Daylily and Iris seedlings planted May 30, 2012 from a November 2011 sowing. Photo taken September 2012.

Each seed that produced the seedlings were stored in plastic bags, and kept cool in the fridge before sowing.

Edited to add that the Irises on the far right are mature plants, not seedlings.

This message was edited Dec 28, 2012 7:53 PM

Thumbnail by blomma
Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

Plastic can cause contents to sweat if not dried well before storing, paper can only dry things out unless stored in damp conditions, I did say I was giving the method that suits myself and many other gardeners and mentioned that other people will find whatever method and treatment suits them.
I guess the plastic bag storage will depend on what condition the seeds are in when being stored and would imagine complete dryness is a must.
Hope this clears my reply up.
Good luck, WeeNel.

Casper, WY(Zone 4a)

Wee, ofcourse seeds have to be cured dry before stored in plastic bags. I allow mine to dry for a week before storing.

Magnolia, TX(Zone 8b)

A LIVING seed always has moisture, Many of us live in areas where humidity is so hi, seeds cannot dry. With plastic bags many of us have lost seeds. If I have large seeds i use old fashioned letter envelopes, dated and Id'd in pencil and stored in an old metal breadbox to keep mice out. As many times as I've thrown something in the fridge to keep, the cycling temps with doors opening and closing/ defrost cycles/ children playing with t'stats- I opt paper. Less tears. NOT everyone needs the same measures- as WeeNel said. And some of us need even more measures, chuckl

Calgary, AB(Zone 3b)

Quote from WeeNel :
I never put seeds in fridge unless they call for a period of very cold like in Delphiniums etc.


WeeNel, your statement may be confusing to readers who are not familiar with the difference between dry storage of seeds as compared to stratification of seeds to break down germination inhibitors.
To clarify...
Storing seeds dry in a cold temperature does nothing to break down germination inhibitors - but it does enhance the ability to store the seeds successfully by isolating the seeds from possible fungal or insect damage.
Stratification, which is exposing seeds (of the species that require such treatment) to fluctuating warm and cold temperatures, is only achieved after the seeds have imbibed moisture; hence, exposure to cold temperatures or "cold stratification" is effective only after the seeds have been planted in moistened medium or placed in moistened paper towels (depending on the method used). To summarize, storing dry seeds in cold temperatures is not stratification and does not break down germination inhibitors.
Anyone who is interested in this subject, or anyone who starts a lot of perennials from seed, should be encouraged to read the publications of Dr. Norman Deno - fascinating and extremely readable accounts of valuable scientific research that debunks much of the anecdotal "advice" that is routinely passed around with respect to seed starting. There is a link to these publications provided on this forum.



This message was edited Dec 30, 2012 2:02 PM

Casper, WY(Zone 4a)

altagardener,
You are correct. Stratification doesn't happen unless cold along with moisture happens as in nature. I also use Dr Denos way of starting all my seeds (except iris seeds)---in moist paper towels.

Photo is of DL seeds after sprouting in a moist paper towel in just prior to potting.

Thumbnail by blomma
Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

Now I'm confused, I understood the question was where to get bags for storing seeds, this I took to mean, storing from collecting the seeds UNTIL sewing the seeds when the right time/season arrives,
I was unaware the question had anything to do with STRATIFICATION, that is a completely different question to storing the seeds for future use.

Sorry for the mix-up hope no one has miss-understood my answer, I gave advice on storage of dried seeds only.
Best wishes and happy gardening.
WeeNel.

Cambridge, ON(Zone 6a)

I too prefer glassine envelopes.

You can also get them from entomology supplies stores. I'm also an entomologist so I had them already and use them for seeds now too. I get mine from BioQuip but many "scientific" stores will carry them. Available in different sizes. I use the smallest one the most often. Side opening: http://www.bioquip.com/search/DispProduct.asp?pid=1131A
End opening: http://www.bioquip.com/search/DispProduct.asp?pid=1130A Or you can by "pads" of glassine and fold your own size or shape: http://www.bioquip.com/search/DispProduct.asp?pid=1130T

Its odd there is misinformation out there on storage...a bit of google searching will bring up many resources, I would look at how seed banks do long term storage.

Drying fresh seed for a minimum of two weeks is recommended from all my research.

Personally for short term storage, say one season, (for dry seeds) I put mine in glassine envelope then put them in a plastic ziplock bag with some silica gel to remove any remaining moisture then place that in the freezer (fridge would be fine too). For longer term storage I put the glassine envelopes in an airtight glass container with the silica and place in the freezer (as plastic bags still allow moisture in over time, all long term seed banks use sealed glass combined with silica descants and low temp). BioQuip also sells silica descants but the blue indicator is not to be used indoors (been identified as giving off cancerous fumes minutely and slowly but still...) I have the safer orange indicating silica so I know when the inside may be getting moist and the silica needs changing (more of an issue in the plastic bags I'm finding, doesn't need to be changed in the glass unless I haven't dried the seeds properly before storage).

Cambridge, ON(Zone 6a)

Quote from kittriana :
A LIVING seed always has moisture, Many of us live in areas where humidity is so hi, seeds cannot dry. With plastic bags many of us have lost seeds.


PS: I totally agree with Kittriana. I never put seeds in plastic without silica to keep the excess moisture from causing rot/mold. (even with silica the seed itself will have up to 15% moisture inside it still. if you go below a certain %, maybe 2 maybe 4 I don't remember, you will kill the living seed) My early storage attempts (years ago) usually rotted in plastic bags...to moist and no air movement. And protecting from high temps or temp changes is the best way to keep viable longer term.

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