Photo by Melody

Beginner Gardening Questions: Help! Silver Dollar Eucalyptus fell over!

Communities > Forums > Beginner Gardening Questions
bookmark
Forum: Beginner Gardening QuestionsReplies: 13, Views: 103
Add to Bookmarks
-
AuthorContent
montanadolphin
Columbia, VA
(Zone 6b)

April 30, 2013
2:32 PM

Post #9503067

Hubby and I just bought and moved into new home in January. There is a tall Silver Dollar Eucalyptus tree up against the shed. We had heavy rain and wind which blew it over! Can I save it? I don't know what to do! It stands as tall as the two story shed. I tried to get it back up and anchoring it, but it won't stay!

Thumbnail by montanadolphin
Click the image for an enlarged view.

steadycam3
Houston Heights, TX
(Zone 9a)

May 2, 2013
4:51 AM

Post #9505050

Drill a hreaded hook like ones used for porch swings or hanging baskets into the corner of the shed about half way up the height of the tree. Attach the tree to the hook with grass or nylon rope adjusting the distance from tree to shed so that the tree is vertical. Water the tree during this summer as if it were a new planting. It should re-anchor itself by next spring. Check the attachment periodically to see if needs to be adjusted as the tree grows.
montanadolphin
Columbia, VA
(Zone 6b)

May 2, 2013
5:22 AM

Post #9505074

Thanks steadycam for the suggestion. I'm afraid I wasn't able to follow it, though because I hadn't gotten a response to my post so I relocated the tree. It was dying. Half the leaves are brown. When I pulled the tree, I realized both roots were snapped in two. The only thing holding it in place were two other roots, but they were roots from other plants...one was from a pricker vine, the other from a maple tree that's been cut a few times. I relocated it anyway, hoping maybe it could be saved. I have my doubts, but I'll give it a try anyway. I dug a hole to accomodate the snapped roots and anchored the tree in four directions, then filled the hole and covered it with dirt. Then I watered it thoroughly. My plan is to water it every day and hope it can be saved. I've read that they don't like their roots messed with though, so my chances of saving this tree is slim. I'm really bummed. I love the smell of the branches. If it does completely die, I'm just going to have to find someone who sells them or seeds and plant a new one.

jaimelemon

jaimelemon
St. Louis, MO
(Zone 6a)

May 8, 2013
11:16 AM

Post #9513392

I'm curious how your tree is doing. It was so pretty, I'm hoping it is hanging on for you.
montanadolphin
Columbia, VA
(Zone 6b)

May 8, 2013
5:23 PM

Post #9513761

Well, it's not dead...yet. But it is looking pretty sad. Here's some pics I took of it today.

Thumbnail by montanadolphin   Thumbnail by montanadolphin         
Click an image for an enlarged view.

Diana_K
Contra Costa County, CA
(Zone 9b)

May 13, 2013
8:34 PM

Post #9519661

It was too close to the shed, anyway. They get HUGE!
If this one dies, read more about them and properly locate it where it can grow.

Stake it with 2 stakes that are roughly a foot from the trunk, and use strong ties that will allow the tree to flex in minor breezes, but will support the tree in stronger wind. You can also use guy wires, but make sure the tree can still move. Do not tie it down too well.
As the trunk moves in the wind it grows stronger. If you support it so strongly that it cannot move at all, it does not develop the strength to resist the stronger wind.
WeeNel
Ayrshire Scotland
United Kingdom

May 14, 2013
2:29 AM

Post #9519776

Diana has gave the best tips for staking a young tree and from the picture you will need to take extra notice of the ties you have as when you wrap any supports around the tender trunks of baby trees, you would want to wrap some soft material around the trunk to prevent your ties from cutting into the bark which is a sure sign way of getting bugs, diseases or even weeping sap from damaged areas where the ties cut into the trunk as it grown or as the wind rocks the plant to and fro.
Personally I use old Panty Hose or ladies old stockings as they are strong, soft and stretch as the trunk grown, honestly, no one knows what they are once in place, I also use inch wide strip of sponge to protect the trunk when there has been tight wraps on the trunk such as you have.
You have done well to replant the tree and lets hope after your determined effort to save it, you get the chance to enjoy this tree for many years to come.
Best of luck. WeeNel.
purpleinopp
Opp, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 14, 2013
8:00 AM

Post #9520095

I've been watching this thread out of curiosity since I got a tiny little E. polyanthemos last spring and it's still in a pot. (Not a plan, one of those indecision things that happens sometimes...) Yours looks the same but I wouldn't know one Euc. from another.

But needless to say, it's not had an easy time. It gets blown over a lot and at this point most of the soil is gone, it's just a vicious ball of roots, so probably having a tough time getting a good drink, and wobbly, but nowhere near looking unhealthy. Seems they are very tough, as are most trees. Probably will be fine as long as you don't water it too much. Sending good vibes, I think they smell good too!
Nefitara
Port Richey, FL
(Zone 9a)

May 14, 2013
4:05 PM

Post #9520648

It looks like it is doing good! Great news. I too was keeping an eye on this post. I have a young one that I got last year and had to tie it to the ground because it kept falling over...a little top heavy. I don't know much about these trees, but they seem to love the hot weather. If anyone has some good advice or tips on this tree I'd appreciate it. :)
WeeNel
Ayrshire Scotland
United Kingdom

May 15, 2013
3:07 AM

Post #9521103

If you wish to keep it growing in a pot, buy one of the largest pot's you can, get some shop bought compost and mix this with some weed free garden soil, make sure the pot has drainage holes drilled in to bottom, add a shallow layer of broken crocks (old clay pots) or other material to help drainage, and add the plant / tree, once you have firmed the soil by hand pressing gently down, add some largish nice smooth stones to the top of the soil and scatter some nice gravel around these stones, as this will help the loss of soil splashing up when watering the pot, it also is a must for tall plants / tree's when growing in pot's as they all fall over with breeze ect. IF the tree is not in too nice a pot / container, you can always place other smaller plants around the large pot, this helps hide the dirty or old container and you get the pleasure of changing the look by different plants in the smaller pots, it can look very attractive and is a smart looking addition to an area you might otherwise not be able to do or grow in right now, ready made gardening ha, ha, ha, you can also move these around the garden till tou are happy where the tree looks best.
By the way, these plants take more water than most people think, they like well watered but in good drained soil not soil that sits waterlogged hence the drainage added at the bottom of the pot. My Eucalyptus gets the folaige burnt or stripped off most winters by the strong winds right off the sea, it goes brown, dreadful looking, but it bounces back again each spring, it's now a monster size, once it gets going you should not be too afraid to cut out branches growing in the wrong direction (falling down with weight) or just nipping out the growing tip of some branches as this helps the tree make new branches to give a nice looking top to the tree. these tree's are tough as you can tell from the foliage which is full of oils and as said earlier, the smell when crushed is lovely. Remove branches that are crossing each other and rubbing the bark, the bark is quite soft compared to other trees, and the rubbing allows disease or insects into the scars and it weakens the branches as it grows.
Hope this helps you out a bit,
Good luck. WeeNel.
Nefitara
Port Richey, FL
(Zone 9a)

May 15, 2013
2:26 PM

Post #9521816

Great advice WeeNel, thanks!
purpleinopp
Opp, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 16, 2013
2:41 PM

Post #9523017

Yes, awesome, WeeNel!! I do love the smell too. I never intended to have a potted Eucalyptus, but am still plagued by indecision about where in the world it should go. That's why I quit doing that (buying plants that don't have a place to go) years ago, or so I thought. Was just offering a toughness/xeric anecdote. It does sound like I was asking for help. Thank you so much for taking the time to do so!!

Further observations... it makes new branches readily, so don't be afraid to remove ugly ones, as I first did in hopes this thing might stand up on its' own while I was "deciding where to put it," and later because there were more dead leaves than live on some branches. The few trees I see in the ground in the area do not have a clear leader, they're more like giant shrubs than trees, so I wouldn't worry about form in that way, as one normally would for a tree, but more for strength/general upright-ness (and being able to walk under it later if desired.) If left to their own devices, they're a little gnarly for my personal taste in a suburban yard, but I've seen a few that seem like they were well shaped while young and look more like strong, "tree-shaped" trees to my eye. But even these trees do not have a single, distinguished leader.

Ironic that you would describe using a pot ghetto for trouble spots. I'm smothering grass and starting a new bed as we speak, with a pot ghetto on top. I'm doing this right in the middle of the front yard, with newspaper sticking out of the edges and everything. We'll get a timber border around it this weekend, and more mulch (I never think it will take as much as it does,) but for a couple weeks, it's looked like, well, just bad out there. I need more space but I can't dig up that much more grass, with tons of tree roots in it. When the grass gives up under there, the plants can go in the ground. To smother grass (or whatever weeds,) I've also used the bags of mulch that will later go over the spot, old foam egg crate mattress topper, sheets of metal, old towels or sheets, cardboard, anything that will make a solid contact with the the surface (some of which might need mulch on top to work, to also block the light and keep from blowing away.)

Poor thing, the only thing that would make my sad little tree look better is to hide it behind other plants. Should have just given it to my Mom last year, she has a huge yard that supposedly needs a Eucalyptus tree... at least now I feel a lot more qualified to plant it... somewhere, and that I should probably stake it.

Don't know why it's so complicated to me. At this point, I'm considering lopping off the top and seeing what it might do as a thing-that-gets-trimmed-a-lot-and-lives-in-a-pot-but-will-never-be-a-bonsai.

Great discussion!
hcmcdole
Powder Springs, GA
(Zone 7b)

May 16, 2013
2:49 PM

Post #9523024

When you get the next ice storm you will probably be cutting it down. They never regain their beauty after being stressed by something like an ice storm. I had a few I grew from seed and they grow very quick and were hardy enough for the Atlanta area. About five years after they were nearly 20 feet tall we had an ice storm. The leaves were burnt and never regained its full lush look - never dropped the burned leaves either. The next year I took two big ones down.

WeeNel
Ayrshire Scotland
United Kingdom

May 16, 2013
3:23 PM

Post #9523076

When I plant new tree's I add as much leaf-mould or manures to the soil as I can, after the tree is set into the newly dug (Deep and Wide hole I break up the soil at the bottom for the roots to help them spread out /down, then when you backfill the soil into the planting hole, use a clear plastic juice container, cut the bottom off and remove the cap, lay the container, (narrow end down) and back fill so the container is a couple of inches above the top soil, firm all the soil down with foot but don't stand hard onto the soil, just firm it so the tree roots are unable to rock back out if windy.
When you water the tree's or shrubs for that matter, you fill up the container a couple of times when you water and this allows the water to get right down to the roots where is is most need, after a couple of years you can remove the container when you see the tree is developing and growing well enough to support it's self because it has sent out more roots and can stay upright but you still need to offer tree supports that wont cut into the bark and cause further problems and you need to check the ties on the trunk or they strangle to trees faster than folks imagine.
Hope this helps you out a bit. Good Luck.
WeeNel.

You cannot post until you register and login.


Other Beginner Gardening Questions Threads you might be interested in:

SubjectThread StarterRepliesLast Post
Cyclanthus bipartitus 'Gigant' bepah 3 Jun 11, 2010 9:05 AM
Welcome to the Beginner Gardening Questions forum! dave 53 Jun 18, 2013 4:28 PM
canna rhizomes help Allison_FL 20 Jan 16, 2013 6:55 PM
Where to locate my garden - light issues Martell 18 Apr 19, 2010 2:17 PM
Baby Oak Tree Seedtosser1 13 Jun 4, 2009 5:13 PM


We recommend Firefox
Overwhelmed? There's a lot to see here. Try starting at our homepage.

[ Home | About | Advertise | Media Kit | Mission | Featured Companies | Submit an Article | Terms of Use | Tour | Rules | Privacy Policy | Contact Us ]

Back to the top

Copyright © 2000-2014 Dave's Garden, an Internet Brands company. All Rights Reserved.
 

Hope for America