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Seed Germination: 2014 Seed Starting, continuing from 2013

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 15, 2013
4:58 PM

Post #9728680

We came from here:

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1304074/

It's a little early yet, but the other thread was really long so here we are :-)

Sharing methods, challenges and experiences, all are welcome!

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

December 16, 2013
5:57 AM

Post #9728914

Evelyn any color is ok with me Never had the white ones mine was a yellow & I would take more of them even :)
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

December 16, 2013
1:58 PM

Post #9729151

OK, just remember, they do not bloom at 4 o'clock. They should call them 8 o'clocks. But they are still in bloom in the morning...
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 16, 2013
4:53 PM

Post #9729250

Mine bloomed most of the time once they got going... Less early in the season, and I'm not sure about cloudy days. But they showed white very clearly from a distance.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

December 22, 2013
9:17 AM

Post #9732371

I think on cloudy days they are open all day long...
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 22, 2013
3:31 PM

Post #9732563

OK, I finally got started, in a very small way.

Last year one of my Platycodon Perlmutterschale seedlings had a double bloom. Apparently it's unusual, and it's gorgeous. I nurtured that plant, but somehow it still had a rough summer, culminating in a few seeds that may or may not have made it to maturity by the end of the summer.

So tonight I put some seeds to soak in hand hot water. Tomorrow I'll put them in a folded, damp paper towel in a baggy-- the Deno Method-- and keep my fingers crossed. Last year P Permutterschale took 16 days to germinate, other Platys were sprouting in as little as 4 days. I have my fingers crossed.

Meanwhile Happy Holidays, everyone!

Thumbnail by Pfg   Thumbnail by Pfg         
Click an image for an enlarged view.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

December 22, 2013
7:43 PM

Post #9732696

Fingers crossed here too!!!!!

meadowyck

meadowyck
Brooksville, FL
(Zone 9a)

December 22, 2013
9:34 PM

Post #9732744

What a beautiful bloom. The color is perfect.

Jan
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

December 23, 2013
6:36 AM

Post #9732936

Pam and Susie ~ I have already put your seeds in the Robin. Let me know if you get them (or not!). I think I put the remainder in the Robin as well...gosh, I can't remember...this has been one extremely seedy season! Now I need to get them all back into order and get out a few to put in one of my square foot gardens.

So far, the summer seeding experiment went well. I sowed Shasta Daisies, some frilly pansies, foxglove, hollyhocks and campanula. All but the campanula did well. I think it was my fault, though. The seeds are extremely tiny and I think they got pulled up when I went to remove some weeds. They were in a clump. I will sow a lot more thinly next time. I don't want to waste this seed!

I think I need to start again with a fresh soil mix which does not involve me adding any of my own "dirt" in it. The weeds just seem to flourish this time of year. I need to get out in the cold garden and do some weeding already!! (Brrr!!!!...)
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

December 23, 2013
7:12 AM

Post #9732956

In summer, in order to keep the seedlings from drying out and getting too hot, I put closely "woven" flats on top of them. After they got larger, then I took out the flats for the later part of the day, after the sun was lower. The hollyhocks were the fastest as they got large enough to move them father apart, which I did in the bed at first..

Then later on, I moved them into their perennial bed. I have no clue if they will bloom the first season, but I really do not care right now as there are so many other things to do in my gardens. I planted out 9 of the Desert Candles (Eremerus) in the back of the new mixed "warm colors" bed. I think they will be too tall as in the "Peach of a Garden" I had placed them quite a ways away, so they would not look so out of place.

This year I dug out all the plants out of that garden as I was frustrated by all the deer browsing that had gone on for years. Now all they will have will be daffodils, which they do not like. I am sure there will be some other bulbs, so I will have to be diligent with the Liquid Fence, in a timely manner. It is usually after a nice snow when the bulbs are coming up and I don't want to go outside is when the deer have already munched early in the morning.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 23, 2013
11:20 AM

Post #9733076

I'm confused by your climate-- I think of zone 8 as nearly tropical, but you have snow. Are you in fhe hills? How far north are you? A couple of years ago, DH and I went to Yosemite and Sequoia parks, are you anywhere near either of them?

We all hate those 4-legged marauders. At my late mother's house in Southampton, on Long Island, they destroyed lovely mature landscaping in just a couple of years. Up until then they had left her alone, but as their space shrinks and the population explodes, they become more and more of a pest.

This morning I changed the water the seeds are soaking in by pouring out water and seeds together onto a paper towel. The water drained right out, and I didn't lose any precious seeds. After I put more hot water in the dish, I turned the towel upside down into it and the seeds floated right off it into the water. I' thinking maybe I can cut down germination time by soaking an extra day, maybe I'll do that on 1/2 of them.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

December 23, 2013
3:06 PM

Post #9733194

Pam ~ There are many "zone 8's". Not tropical here. It is hot during the summer, but it is a dry heat, and cold in the winter. Yes, we are in the Sierra foothills at an elevation of about 3500'.

I am thinking that my next garden will be a rock garden. The only problem with that is I will have to figure out irrigation unless everything is drought tolerant. We have little to no rain during the summer. The choice rock gardens have gentians and many things that do not like hot summers. (I have one gentian in the shady garden...so far, it is still alive. I will see in the spring if it has grown any. It is tiny!)

It snows here every winter and sometimes spring does not arrive until late May...well, most of the time. Then summer is in June, so spring is usually short. We had tomatoes until November this year. Some years it snows the first week of November.

USDA Zone 8 10 - 20 degrees minimum in the winter. That is the definition of zone 8.

There is zone 8 in the south, which is humid for most of the summer, and some frost and barely, if any snow. AND, they get rain during the summer!!

So, you are not the only one confused by a zone 8 garden. Every year is different, so I do not know what to expect. This spring came early this year, for a change, but then it snowed on April 15th after a nice warm up...my tomatoes did not like being in the snow!
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

December 23, 2013
3:08 PM

Post #9733197

Yosemite is to the south of us, so we are further north. We are in between Lake Tahoe and Sacramento.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

December 24, 2013
8:32 AM

Post #9733620

LOVE Erumerus!!!!! (foxtail lillies, just beautiful) What color are you planting? Did you get them locally or mail order? I bought a couple a few years ago at the Botanic garden sale and they were bare root...I carefully planted them and nothing! Darn! Will have to try thm again. There is a white one that I've seen get to 10ft tall! Stunning when in bloom!

Suppose to be warm this week (50s), so now the snow can melt off and I can find all me seed flats and pots. Gotta get things ready to start... Will be going thru the Seed Robin this week, hope it's filled with goodies!!!!!

I kept a few Dianthus X Loveliness that didn't get planted and brought them back inside. Am hoping for some winter blooms!!!! My neighbor did that with a few of her Dianthus and it was nice to see and smell blooms in the middle of winter...

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all...Kathy

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

December 24, 2013
4:12 PM

Post #9733826

I am starting off my season of seed germination with a Christmas gift certificate from Reimer Seeds. One of my fabulous friends apparently appreciated the many gifts of produce from my garden.
Mipii
(Robin) Blissfield, MI
(Zone 6a)

December 24, 2013
5:56 PM

Post #9733877

Oh Celene...nice! Looks like what goes out comes back to you, that's what you get for being generous.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 24, 2013
7:42 PM

Post #9733904

I can see lots of us will be keeping ourselves busy this winter! My seed are still soaking. But tomorrow is another day...

Merry Christmas!
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

December 24, 2013
8:27 PM

Post #9733918

Merry Christmas to ALL!! ^_^

meadowyck

meadowyck
Brooksville, FL
(Zone 9a)

December 24, 2013
8:59 PM

Post #9733937

Merry Christmas all

Jan

ps Celene good to see you posting here. Hope the weather isn't too rough right now for your area.

Mipii
(Robin) Blissfield, MI
(Zone 6a)

December 24, 2013
9:00 PM

Post #9733938

Happy Birthday Jesus.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

December 25, 2013
7:55 AM

Post #9734133

I got the seed box (part 1) yesterday and many, many goodies to choose from.. (box 2 is enroute)

We got a skiff of snow yesterday so no looking for pots today and I'm quite sure my potting soil is frozen... Need to break into sections so I can bring it in to thaw.. Got about 1/2" of snow yesterday, but it should melt off soon.

Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy Holiday! Kathy

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy
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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 25, 2013
8:00 AM

Post #9734134

What a sweet picture! Merry Christmas!

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

December 25, 2013
10:32 AM

Post #9734218

Thanks pam...it was painted for my daughter's inlaws...
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 31, 2013
4:31 AM

Post #9737333

I'm so far down the list for Amanda's seed robin it probably won't arrive until February-- that's my excuse for ordering from Swallowtail, and those seeds came yesterday. I already started soaking Asclepias Tuberosa, Campanula pyramidalis (Chimney Bellfloweer), and Lupine The Chatelaine (pink).

They all need stratification and I'm going to try something new (for me) this year. Somewhere recently I read a post about soaking, Deno, then freezing the baggie. I can't find the post now, but seem to remember it was only for a day or two, then thaw and plant. Shoots popped up in a few days.

Meanwhile my little Platy seeds have swollen and look like they should sprout any minute. I thought the windowsill seemed cold, so the other day I dug out my smallest heat mat to speed things up.

Happy New Year's Eve, everyone!

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

December 31, 2013
5:54 AM

Post #9737374

This year, I SWEAR I'm not going to bite off more than I can chew, seed-wise. Seriously.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 31, 2013
1:18 PM

Post #9737628

Hahahahahahahaaaa... That's what I said all summer and into the fall. I just sorted the new seeds into my stash- I have about 3 times what I remembered from when I looked them over a couple of weeks ago, lol.

I thought I was going to experiment less, and grow more plants of fewer varieties. Hahahahahaha... I have at least 2 or 3 choices for each available spot in the garden. I needed more plants for the Blue Garden- if I do even a handful of each type of blue seed I have, the whole place will be blue. And there will be no room for us to live in the apartment. Yikes!

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

December 31, 2013
4:47 PM

Post #9737721

You make me feel less guilty. lol
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

December 31, 2013
6:53 PM

Post #9737803

Safety in numbers...

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

December 31, 2013
7:38 PM

Post #9737837

Less like a 12-step program, more like a group of enablers.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 1, 2014
2:19 PM

Post #9738281

[quote="warriorswisdomkathy"]LOVE Eremurus!!!!! (foxtail lillies, just beautiful) What color are you planting? Did you get them locally or mail order? I bought a couple a few years ago at the Botanic garden sale and they were bare root...I carefully planted them and nothing! Darn! Will have to try thm again. There is a white one that I've seen get to 10ft tall! Stunning when in bloom!
...Kathy[/quote]

They are peach colored. (They were for my "Peach of a Garden"!) I got them at McClure & Zimmerman. I have never seen them locally.

The weather has warmed up, almost all of the snow has melted. This feels like spring, but I am a-fearin' a roller coaster ride with the weather. It is 60°here now, and it has been that way for several days now. I am sorry for all the people enduring the ice storms...and all the horrid vehicle crashes...y'all be careful, ya'h hear?? (My grandmother was from Georgia)

There are a few bulbs showing...some yellow crocus, some white hoop daffodils and others just showing foliage.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 1, 2014
2:49 PM

Post #9738295

I would like that white Eremerus, too.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 1, 2014
3:06 PM

Post #9738311

[quote="Celene"]This year, I SWEAR I'm not going to bite off more than I can chew, seed-wise. Seriously. [/quote]

It's not nice to swear! (LOL!!) Especially when it comes to SEEDS!!!! ^_^
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 1, 2014
9:01 PM

Post #9738480

Progress report: First thing this morning I put the soaked Asclepias, Campanula and Lupines in the paper towel/baggie in the freezer, marked Pam's in big letters, just in case DH in a well-intentioned New Year's frenzy decides to do a purge.

My special Platycodon seeds aren't showing any radicals yet-- worse, there was a white fuzz on a couple, and when I touched them they squished down to nothing. I guess that's mold, and they rotted. The seed pods may not have matured enough before the stem broke :-(
But I'm still waiting. There were 25 seeds, maybe a couple will be OK.
The other possibility is that I'm not completely set up yet, didn't use peroxide or SuperThrive. I'm thinking that I should take a few more from the stash and try again with them, using everything.

We had a gang here for a feast this afternoon, Cassoulet with Duck Confit and 3 kinds of sausage, and lots of wine. Yummmmm, and I'm stuffed. Tomorrow back on the straight and narrow.

Happy New Year, you all!
Mipii
(Robin) Blissfield, MI
(Zone 6a)

January 1, 2014
10:15 PM

Post #9738493

I vote for 'The other possibility is that I'm not completely set up yet, didn't use peroxide or SuperThrive. I'm thinking that I should take a few more from the stash and try again with them, using everything.'

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 2, 2014
5:35 AM

Post #9738580

I vote for that, too.

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

January 2, 2014
5:46 AM

Post #9738588

Question on Seeds I also ordered a few seeds All but one says plant after danger of frost .
but i would like to know what would you do ?

this one says plant in fall can or should i maybe try soaking or put in paper towel in the freezer for a few weeks ? " Fern leaf dropwort "

then i have
False blue Indigo
white Indigo
white Queen cleome
verbascum
red lychnis/ campion

should i put them all in the frig & Bring out when i'm ready to plant ? What would you do ?

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 2, 2014
6:45 AM

Post #9738620

I would winter sow all of them and save your indoor space for plants that require warmth to grow well. I have successfully WS a ton of lychnis/silene/viscaria etc., as well as cleomes, they need cold stratification anyhow.

Once you get a Lychnis/silene plant and you're not paying for seed, I just sprinkle it where I want it when the seed ripens, and it pops up the next year. I just WS'd a variegated Lychnis coronaria alba yesterday, along with some collected seed for L. coronaria, and Viscaria "Blue Angel" for a new bed.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 2, 2014
7:59 AM

Post #9738680

If I could Winter Sow, I would. The only way I got Thalictrum seedlings is to put the seeds in a large-ish planter in the fall, and next spring there they were. But usually in the fall I'm so busy with other chores I don't get to do any of that before we close the house. I do Spring Sow once we get back there in early April, but that's not long enough for the trickier perennials.

I'm still looking for an indoor method that works more often. I have used the fridge (Deno) and had a fair amount of success. Last year I put some stubborn seeds in small cups in damp vermiculite, covered them and kept them next to an open window. That also was successful in some cases, but not all.

This year I'm trying the baggie-in the-freezer-- which reminds me, they've been in for 24 hours. I wonder if that's enough time?

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 2, 2014
8:10 AM

Post #9738690

You could winter sow now, this is about when I do, up until say...February for plants that need cold stratification, March-April for those that do not. I sow mine in regular old flats with plastic domes, I had far less luck transplanting from those, and their propensity to become dog toys is problematic for me personally.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 2, 2014
12:55 PM

Post #9738862

[quote="Pfg"]This year I'm trying the baggie-in the-freezer-- which reminds me, they've been in for 24 hours. I wonder if that's enough time? [/quote]

Freezing seeds can injure the cells in the embryo even if combined with moisture. Stratification works with flunctuating temps, such is in nature. The freezing temp in a freezer is too even.

Here is a method you can try that a customer told me about and was successful to my amazement.

Most of you know that I WS iris seeds. They are tricky because they need soaking for 3 weeks with change of water daily to remove seed inhibiting factor in the seed coat. Then planted in plastic container with potting soil, covered then placed outside all winter for fluctuating temps. I have done that since 2009 with success. They sprouted in the Spring when temps reached 55 to 70 degrees. By the time I was told of the new method, I had already sown as many seeds that I have room for under lights after they sprout. The experiment is ongoing and so far customer have 12 seedlings.

Here is what she did:
Instead of rinsing once per day, she did it morning and evening. In the morning, she added ice cubes to the water which melted during the day and changed the temp of the water. She keeps her house above 70 degrees. In the evening, she rinsed without the ice added. The seeds sprouted at the end of 3 weeks soaking time, and are up and growing.

She is now going to add ice in the evening soaking also to see if it will make a difference in sprouting time. Evidently, flunctuating temps made the difference after soaking off the inhibiting factor. By the way, all seeds especially perennials that are hardy for colder climates does have seed inhibiting factor in the seed coat. It is nature's way of guarantee seed survival by preventing germination under hostile conditions.

Since it works for iris seeds, I assume it will work for any seed that needs stratification. Thought I would pass the info along. I will try it when the weather will be warm enough to move the potted seedlings outside until large enough to plant in my nursery. I have daylily seedling growing so not much room indoors.

Happy experimenting and Happy and fruitful New Year.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 2, 2014
1:14 PM

Post #9738872

1] iris seedling sprouting April 14, 2012 after spending all winter on the North side of my house.
2] 1 month old in 6-packs, May 1, 2012
3] Planted in coldframe May 30, 2012
4] Husky plants by September, 2012
5] The result---129 seedlings bloomed June 2013

Thumbnail by blomma   Thumbnail by blomma   Thumbnail by blomma   Thumbnail by blomma   Thumbnail by blomma
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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 2, 2014
3:27 PM

Post #9738946

Thanks, Blomma. I always love seeing your seedlings. It must be so exciting for you when your new kids bloom!

The ice cube trick sounds great. I have very limited growing space in the city, only room for a handful of flats, which is why the Deno method is so good for me. Only sprouted seeds go in cells or pots, so no space is wasted. But I'm thinking I could even stick an ice cube in the baggie every so often to mimic the fluctuation of temps.

Meanwhile, I did take my 3 Deno sown seeds out of the freezer after 24 hours. They are now thawed, still int the baggie, and I'll start checking for germination in a couple of days.

Still no luck on the Platys. Now that 2014 is 2 days old and our place is back to normal, I'll get organized and set up for the next batch.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 2, 2014
5:49 PM

Post #9739028

Pam, Glad you enjoy my seedlings. You have no idea how excited I was this past summer when I realized that the seedlings had buds to bloom at 14 months. Likewise the daylilies growing in rows next to the irises. It is addictive---to say the least---which keeps me hybridizing.

I use the Deno method on my daylily seeds with success. They go in the fridge for 3 weeks after an overnight soak. They begin to sprout within 2 weeks at room temp. I grow them potted under light inside until I can place them in my plant stand in April.

As for your Platys, I did them 5 years ago from seeds purchased from Parks. They do require stratification and time to sprout. I placed the pan in my unheated garage. I think it took almost 1 month sown in seeding mix before they sprouted. That was before I discovered Deno. I would certainly add icecubes to the bag when you do the Platy seeds.

1] daylily seedlings August, 2012
2&3] Beginning to bloom July 2013 at 14 months

Thumbnail by blomma   Thumbnail by blomma   Thumbnail by blomma      
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Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 2, 2014
6:52 PM

Post #9739070

I think the ice cube method is genius. I'd have to figure out something for drainage for tiny seeds, but it seems like it'd work.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 4, 2014
11:01 AM

Post #9740052

Wow, the Asclepias Tuberosa is sprouting! Only 2 so far, but still, that was quick! The others, not yet.

In 2011 Lupines germinated in Deno in the frig after 40-50 days. I did soak them first that year. According to notes I took from an unknown person's post, after soaking the seeds and freezing the baggie they got sprouts in just a few days. I think I'll try the ice cube trick if they don't show themselves soon. I can just put the cubes on top of the baggie on a dish...

I looked at my records from last year. I had 4 types of Platys, and almost all started sprouting on the 5th day- 1 day soak, 4 days Deno. This year's first try looks squishy, I'm sure they're no good, so I tossed them. Now I'm soaking a new batch. This time I'll leave it at 24 hours, not 48, and start using peroxide and SuperThrive when I dampen the Deno baggie. I'm afraid, though, that the seeds didn't have time to mature. But I'll keep trying, just in case.

Thumbnail by Pfg
Click the image for an enlarged view.

evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 4, 2014
11:37 AM

Post #9740067

[quote="Pfg"] This time I'll leave it at 24 hours, not 48, and start using peroxide and SuperThrive when I dampen the Deno baggie. I'm afraid, though, that the seeds didn't have time to mature. But I'll keep trying, just in case.[/quote]

Pam ~ How much Superthrive do you use? And peroxide?

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 4, 2014
1:27 PM

Post #9740126

Pam, Here is a link to Platy germination.

http://www.jlhudsonseeds.net/SeedlistPI-PZ.htm

Instead of using Peroxide (which is for infections, not fungus) use a fungicide, which is made for plants, diluted according to direction. I gave up on Peroxide long ago and now use a fungicide with success.

When I soak seeds, I soak them in containers that held food---jelly etc from the store. You can add the ice cubes to the container, rather than add them on top ot the baggie. Most seeds only need an overnight soaking to prevent them becoming waterlogged. Iris seeds are extremely hard, the reason for a longer soaking period. Some seeds benefit from nicking, then soaking, such as Hibiscus, 4-oclocks, etc.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 4, 2014
2:56 PM

Post #9740167

I like peroxide for soaking, but what fungicide do you use? I've tried cinnamon and chamomile tea, and it was not so fabulous.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 4, 2014
3:56 PM

Post #9740204

Celene,
There are several brands. I use Ortho Rose & Shrub Disease Control. I bought it first for my rose bushes. Since it stops & prevents Black Spot, Rust, Powdery Mildew, and other diseases, I figured it must be good for seeds. I use it on daylily seeds. Instead of water, I moisten the paper towel with the fungicide. So far so good.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 4, 2014
5:19 PM

Post #9740259

Thanks!
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 6, 2014
8:22 AM

Post #9741553

Freezing seeds that need stratifying for 24 hours after soaking really worked. I had Asclepias sprouts in 2 days after I took them out, Lupines in 3. Yesterday I planted 9 Asclepias and 3 Lupines in 6-packs. I used MG Seed Starting mix for the base, then WWKathy's trick of covering the seeds with Vermiculite. The Campanula seeds haven't sprouted yet, but I decided to get them in cells anyway because they are so are so tiny and may be even harder to handle once they start to grow. I clustered them on top of the vermiculite. Everything is now under a dome.

I now have Campanula Blue Clips and Delphiniums in the freezer, and Prunella and Dianthus at room temp, all after soaking 24hours and in Deno. Aquilegia Maggie Mae and Platy Astra Blue are soaking.

I'm thinking the ice cube trick should be good for the Aquilegia, and maybe the Campanulas, since they both can be tricky. Last year what I thought was Campanula White Clips seed, and very easy, turned out to be white Platycodon, which I found out when they eventually bloomed in late summer. So I'm back to square one on those, no personal experience. Oh well...

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 6, 2014
10:04 AM

Post #9741640

Pam,
Years ago, I found that Asclepias seeds were difficult to sprout. I think the reason they sprouted is that you soaked them first, then froze them. It is dry freezing without moisture that is harmful to seeds and does no good.

My yellow Aquilegia plants set seeds every year that sprouted in the garden without fail. Icecubes would most likely work on them. Likewise the Platys.

Below is Aquilegia chrysanthea. It comes true from seeds and never dies out, unlike other species.

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 6, 2014
1:09 PM

Post #9741788

The seeds I put in the freezer are in moist paper towels in a baggie, Deno method, never dry.

In the past, Platys have done well for me with just a soak. This particular batch of seeds was on a broken stem, and may not have developed properly before harvesting. Sadly, it was the only blooming stem, so if they don't grow, that's it. I have to hope that the plant survives the winter and blooms its head off next year:-)

Aquilegia self sows for me in the garden, too, but I've never had any luck getting them going inside. One batch out of 4 commercially packaged varieties germinated after being sown outdoors in the fall, but that's it. The seeds I have now didn't do anything for me last year, but I know WWKathy got them going. I'm so excited about the speedy Lupines and beginner's luck with the Asclepias after the soak and freeze, I'm hoping that will work. If nothing happens, then I'll try ice cubes.

Your A Chrysanthea are lovely!
murkov2
Lincoln, NH
(Zone 4a)

January 6, 2014
1:46 PM

Post #9741820

I'm Blomma's customer who started adding ice to the iris soaking water. In addition to changing the water twice a day for 3 weeks and adding ice to the water, I am going to try soaking and icing for an extra week. All the seeds that sprouted tiny roots did
so at the end of the 3 weeks. This batch is now at 23 days and this morning I had 4 more sprout.
So far I have 25 planted. It takes 10 days to 2 weeks for the little seedlings to pop up. However that is 25 out of 225 seeds. Yes, I actually counted them. I'll let you know what happens to the rest at the end of the 4 weeks.

1. & 2. sprouted seeds
3. & 4. iris seedlings one week old

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deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

January 6, 2014
4:04 PM

Post #9741915

oh Blomma Those are so pretty if you get more seeds this yr could i try some please ?
SEEMS GOOD TO SEE blooms & Not snow .

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 6, 2014
4:31 PM

Post #9741932

murkov2,
Hi and so glad you stopped in and explained in your own words. Thanks for the photos. The seedlings are so cute. I still find it hard to believe their early birthing.

You may want to check out other forum regarding sowing seeds, including Winter Sowing. I have spread your method all over Daves---where appropriate---so you may want to copy and paste in the other forums what you wrote above.

Seeing is believing
murkov2
Lincoln, NH
(Zone 4a)

January 7, 2014
9:52 AM

Post #9742451

Hi,

Thanks for spreading the word, I'll check the other forums. Hope others will try and experiment further so we
can all continue to find ways to trick mother nature and speed things up. I am so excited with the results. I originally tried the ice in an attempt to combine the soaking with the 3 months of cold storage and to lop off 3 weeks of the cold storage. Never expected to avoid the cold storage entirely.

2 more sprouted today. Unfortunately one didn't become a seedling after 3 weeks so I dug it up and found a smelly rotted mess. Yuck! I wonder why that happened.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 7, 2014
12:28 PM

Post #9742574

Hi,
Yuck! Probably not good to begin with for some reason. I have the same with daylilies from the same pod. Sometimes one won't sprout and becomes soft, yet the others in the same Deno package will do fine. So who knows.

I want to thank you for experimenting. I really appreciate it. It will benefit everyone that wants to sow iris seeds. I now include the information in the article I send out.

If we can speed up the germination, perhaps more gardeners will become interested and hybridize to grow their own to register. The world of irises will all benefit.

Check your D-mail in a few minutes.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 7, 2014
2:43 PM

Post #9742701

I have 2 Lupines poking up their little heads, and the very beginning of an Asclepias showing. It is so cool to speed up the germination of these fussy slow pokes, isn't it?! Last time I tried I didn't see Lupine radicals for 40 days in Deno in the frig, and still lost a lot after planting . This is barely a week! Amazing!

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 8, 2014
11:52 AM

Post #9743335

Pam...just a word of warning on the Asclepias (by the way which one is it?), mine (A. incarnata white) always come up, grow for a bit and eventually die. But if you look closely the plant is not dead!!!! It seems like the main stem dies back to the ground (potting soil line) and if you keep watering them they will eventually reemerge to grow another stem... This has happened every time I've ever grown them.(5 or 6 times). I am hoping those that got planted this fall make it thru the winter as I'ld love to have it blooming in the garden again this season... (also just started them on top of the soil, no cold ever used). Same with Aquilegias, think I tried the fridge once and some out at the same time. Found out germination was just as good out so quite putting them in the fridge...

Love the A. chrysanthas, my favs tho are the newer ones that are fragrant. Most are now listed as A. c. Denver's Gold. Got slews of Columbine that should bloom this spring if they make it thru the winter. Was in the garden the other day after what snow was there had melted. I noticed many little babies were starting to pop out of the ground...so I went thru and stepped on a bunch of they trying to push them back in and make good contact with the soil. Then we had some more snow and our second round of subzero weather. Fingers are crossed. Will check on things again after this round melts and readjust if any need it.. Since my planting was done late in the season am thinking it might be the reason they are surfacing a bit...

Pix 1,2,3 and 5 are newly planted areas mostly with babies, pix 4 (next to the white fence and close to the house) is my holding bed for those I didn't have time to seperate into individual pots. So I'll have plenty to do this spring as they all need seperating and put into a regualr home somewhere in the garden...

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy   Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy   Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy   Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy   Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy
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warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 8, 2014
12:08 PM

Post #9743350

Most every area behind the grey hose is now planted...(the hose is marking my new path thru the area... and the green hose in pix 4 is in the middle of the path, the posts are acutually marking the path... I know is a bit hard to tell..lol...atleast I know where the paths are, sure wish the deer did also!!! When things get going this spring will finish paths and plantings.. alot of the area this side of the grey hose will get rerototilled come spring to kill off any grasses that might have made thru all the torture they endured...lol, rototilling, roundup and rototilling... And then I will plant the rest and fill in where anything died off from winter, tho most should make it if the subzeros didn't get them.

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blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 8, 2014
12:34 PM

Post #9743372

kathy, you got it backwards. It is Roundup, rototill, roundup, rototill.

When I prepared the garden where I have daylily and iris sedlings growing. It was full of grassy weeds. I used Roundup first, waited until I saw the weed grass begin to die, then dug them in, added horse manure and covered the whole area with black plastic. Did this late summer.

Not a weed survived. To dig or till in weeds defeats the purpose. All that grass need is a tiny piece of root to flourish again. The grass that I had was the kind that send roots underground for 1 or 2 feet horizontally. A gift from my non-gardener neighbor. So I use weed killer every spring along my fence.

Believe it or not, weed killer will work anytime there is no snow and much active growth. Just takes longer.

Oh, what I could do with all your new garden space. Hundreds of seedlings.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 8, 2014
8:34 PM

Post #9743632

Wow, Kathy, big, big plans! I remember your pics from last year... It looks so different now, doesn't it? But I know with the first breath of spring you'll have color bursting out all over :-)

My Asclepias is tuberosa, just the plain orange one. I had one purchased plant that over wintered last year, survived a couple of moves, bloomed, then disappeared. Do I dare hope to see it again? Anyway, just loved the vibrant color with all the daylilies and tall grasses at the end of a long stretch of lawn, and decided to have a lot more. So far several have germinated, and 2 of them now show tiny green above the vermiculite.

Nothing new to report, but tomorrow's another day...

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 8, 2014
9:01 PM

Post #9743636

Pam, I have grown both the yellow and the orange Asclepias from seed and they are diffcult. Definately need stratification. However, they don't always transplant well for they resent beign moved. I had better luck when transplanted while young since less root disturbance.

1] A. incarnata (swamp weed aka pink butterfly weed)
2] A. tuberosa, orange
3] A tuberosa " gay butterfly weed"

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 9, 2014
8:17 AM

Post #9743841

So pretty- I found a tall white Asclepias last summer at a local nursery. It was the only one they had, and the tag was missing, so I'm not sure of the variety. It was from a small local grower, they said. Does A. Incarnata come in white?

No new Asclepias and Lupines sprouts, only about 50% germination so far, but I tried another trick with the remaining seeds: back in the freezer for another 24 hours. Meanwhile, 2 Lupines out of 3 are just beginning to unfurl, and 3 planted Asclepias cells have sprouted so far, one with 2 stems. Not sure if it's 1 seed or 2. I thought I only put 1 per cell, but stranger things have happened...

When I took the pics below, I noticed 2 more little Asclepias just beginning to surface :-)

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Mipii
(Robin) Blissfield, MI
(Zone 6a)

January 9, 2014
8:39 AM

Post #9743863

Great job Girls, good tricks! Kathy about your experience with Asclepias growing a bit and dying...sounds like damping off. Try a thin layer of grit on the seedling trays before germination and see if that doesn't take care of it.

Leave it to Blomma to include some glorious pics for motivation, lol.

Pam, I'm excited for ya...

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 9, 2014
8:41 AM

Post #9743866

I have a white Asclepias, it's Ice Ballet, I'm pretty sure I got the seed from Park's years ago. It lived through three winters in a pot before we bought our house, transfer to a flower bed, tromping by roofers, tromping by city workers doing sewer work, and it still grows and blooms.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 9, 2014
11:40 PM

Post #9744340

Mippi...nope..not damping off, that would more than likely kill them. I just figured it was a quirk of the plant. They seem to die back to 1/8-1/4", after I clip off the dead stem I get resprouting within a week (ish).

Pam...I can ship some seed to you, also have me check my babies that got planted last fall come spring. I can ship a few in your box that will be coming your way. (thinking I planted about 20 of them.) Asclepias incarnata 'Ice Ballet'.

Celene..Lucky you... The last batch that I planted lasted about 3-4 years and then died off... Just thought it was one of those perens that's not long lived.

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy
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warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 10, 2014
12:37 AM

Post #9744344

Pix above: A. i. Ice Ballet (not fragrant). Under lights. Seeded 12/29. Sprouted 1/7. Potted on 2/1. Pix above was in March, shortly after leaves began dropping and stem die back. Clipped off to green (1/16-1/8" above soil line. New side sprout within a few weeks. Should bloom come summer if they made it thru the winter. I'll be starting the A. incarnata Pink this week (the pink is suppose to be fragrant tho not sure if it's the same as regular pink swamp milkweed tuberosa). Tuberosa has white milky sap and incarnata doesn't.

Got a package from Susie today, Thankyou!!!!!!! I'll send plants your direction this spring. And I want to see more pix from you.. I think your garden area is bigger than mine. LOL. Come on let's see it... MOre, more, more.

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

January 10, 2014
6:19 AM

Post #9744482

Sorry Kathy all my gardens are under 1 1/2 ft of snow Plus the other 3 ft of snow the snowplow guy put on top of them I;m sure all my markers will be PUSHED To the back of the front garden the way he plowed in there . the other day :(

your welcome to the seeds .

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 10, 2014
7:28 AM

Post #9744506

Whooppee! Today I have the first few tiny shoots of Campanula pyramidalis, the tall blue one, and the first Dianthus Siberian Blue! Also Asclepis is up to 7 now, and I can see that the first stem divides into 2 very low down on all of them. So it really was 1 seed to a cell.

Still only 2 Lupines growing out of 3 that sprouted. Maybe one got damaged when I planted it :-(. But that's OK, I have lots of Lupines, really don't need so many of this beautiful pink one. The one I had died out this summer.

I took the remaining Lupine and Asclepias seeds in their Deno packets out of the freezer this morning after their second 24 hour freeze. I'm curious to see if that makes a difference, if the last few seeds will sprout.

My NOID white Asclepias is about 4' tall, looks like the typical swamp one but white. Is that incarnata do you think? I'll have to post pics this year, always assuming it comes back.

As for seeds, I think I'm full up for big plants, won't have room to start them once everything else gets going. I still have tons of perennial seeds that I haven't started yet.

What happened to, "I'm not going to do as much this year?!"

Lolol!
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 10, 2014
11:25 AM

Post #9744638

[quote="Pfg"]What happened to, "I'm not going to do as much this year?!"
Lolol![/quote]


So many SEEDS, so little time...I had better get busy!!

meadowyck

meadowyck
Brooksville, FL
(Zone 9a)

January 11, 2014
12:36 PM

Post #9745422

If we could all have 5 acres to play with for our seeds. I love the experimenting with getting them come forth almost as much as watching them mature and bring new seeds to me.

Oh wait I do have 5 acres except it is in KY and I'm in FL, now that just isn't right...LOL

Jan
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 11, 2014
3:17 PM

Post #9745511

I would have been happy to have been in Fla this past week- We had single digits --brrrrr!!! But it's better today. Wet, but warmer :-).

Soooo... Campanula pyramidalis is up strong, I'm delighted. And I'm up to 9 growing Asclepias. But the leftover seeds are doing nothing, and one of my 2 lonely Lupines is not looking happy... The cotyledons aren't opening. The stem looks strong, but the leaves are hanging down, and the connecting stem is drying up. Maybe it got damaged somehow at a particularly delicate stage. Also, in my experience, occasional Lupine seedlings are prone to suddenly failing for no apparent reason. Spring is too far off, It's much too early to put all my eggs in one basket, so I'm soaking a new batch of seeds.

Also soaking Campanula White Clips and some pink Platy Perlmutterschale. Last year I gave a bunch of the pinks away, then realized I would have liked more. Then I got so excited about the double sport and thought I'd have lots of them... But that might not happen, so I'm covering myself with the regular pink . If they don't germinate I'll have to look at my method again, lol!

Slowly but surely I'm moving into production mode. I got all the shelves up and a couple more lights. There are a few babies out of the dome, roughing it on a regular tray. I have heat mats in place, but the temps seem to be OK for the time being without them.

Happy growing, everyone!

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Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 11, 2014
4:41 PM

Post #9745550

I'm cleaning and sanitizing my trays and plant stands. Going to start planting soon, tropicals and other plants that need more time to be planted out in Ohio.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 12, 2014
6:25 AM

Post #9745841

Pam...grow extra of the C. pyramidalis (Chimmeny Bells), would love to have the blue also... mine is white and didn't get seed last fall. Sorry..we got frost before they were developed seed pods..darn.. (Please...lol.) Just thought of something for your wild garden...do you have any of Adenophora lilifolia, can ship some if you like come spring. (Is a Campanula relative, 30-36" June-July, blue/purple hanging bells)

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy   Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy         
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Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 12, 2014
6:39 AM

Post #9745849

I have a lot of Campanula, but not that one. Should I give it a try?
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 12, 2014
6:42 AM

Post #9745856

I'll be glad to give you some seedlings of the Campanula p, also have extra seeds. It's quick to germinate especially after a 24 hour soak. The seeds are so tiny, I put a paper towel over the cup and turned the water, seeds upside down into it. Then I used a spray bottle to wash the seeds into the cells on top of vermiculite over soil mix-- your trick. They came up in just a few days.

Adenophora is naturalized in my garden, I just love it.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 12, 2014
6:51 AM

Post #9745863

I'd be happy to trade some seed with you, I have a ton of stuff.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 12, 2014
7:24 AM

Post #9745904

Celene, come spring I'll ship some from the garden for postage. (or maybe a trade..lol)... would be quicker than seeding..

(I'ld be interested in Aristolochia elegans, Lavender Moonvine and or Centranthus ruber White. Prefer plants if you can...but... lol.) Let me know, and I have other things tooooo. Kathy

This message was edited Jan 12, 2014 8:35 AM
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 12, 2014
9:57 AM

Post #9746027

Here's another breath of spring-- a nice clump of Adenophora. I think it's a native here,may have come from a wild wooded area near a stream that runs through the back of the property. Or someone at some point in years past may have brought it in. I do try to weed around it, but have no idea where the roots could be with all the other stuff so close!

Is C pyramidalis a biennial? Or a short- lived perennial? Does it self sow? Should I be planning ahead to replenish it, or can I trust that if it's happy it will perpetuate itself?

One more of the original Lupine seeds sprouted, just when I was giving up on them. All the sprouted Asclepias have emerged, 11 total, the remaining seeds doing nothing.

Also there are a few tiny radicals on Platy Astra Blue, so I planted them all, several seeds to a cell, 12 cells. The 2nd batch of the pink double are not sprouting, but the seeds are cracked open. I decided to plant them just in case there's something in there willing to grow.

I put the Aquilegia back in the freezer for a 2nd round. That's all for now...

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evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 12, 2014
2:37 PM

Post #9746177

Pam ~ Have you sprouted your Asclepias indoors? Platys? Refigerator or room temps? Soaked beforehand, right?

Do you need more Asclepias seeds? Someone gave me a lot, probably more than I need. LMK.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 12, 2014
6:49 PM

Post #9746355

I'm soaking everything 24 hours, starting in hand hot water. Then everything goes in Deno packets. Asclepias, Lupines, Campanulas-- anything needing stratification-- goes in the freezer for 24 hours. Everything else sits at room temp- hopefully 60-75 degrees. A couple of things--leftover Asclepias, Lupines and Aquilegia -- got a 2nd overnight freeze. Platys stayed warm the whole time.

So far, pretty good results, with room for improvement. Thank you for the offer, but the Asclepias have been particularly successful, and I still have lots of seeds left. I've heard so much about how difficult they can be, so it must be beginner's luck, lol.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 13, 2014
8:35 AM

Post #9746758

Pam...the Campanula pyramidalis is suppose to be Biennial. Altho you can get pups to the side of the main stem. Last fall I noticed that I have 1 pup next to mama, so my fingers are crossed that it makes it to spring.. Hoping this season I can get some seed from it and more pups!!!! I'ld go look but there's snow on the ground now...will look in a few days when the snow melts off. Also wanna get some clippings from some plants to root, faster than trying to seed again. (Santolina, Lavender,Clems)

Started some things yesterday. Digitalis Dalmation Purple; Platicodon: Fuji Blue, Hakone Blue and White, Miss Tilly; Baptisia Alba; Campanula both White and Pink (packets says clips but also lists height at 30-36", if height is correct is probably persicifolia so will grow and figure it out next season when they bloom); Alcea: BlackBeauty, Double Icicle. Will be doing more today. Nothing put in the fridge yet.

evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 13, 2014
5:14 PM

Post #9747192

Kathy ~ Is Santolina easy to root? Would this be a good time to do it?

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 14, 2014
9:36 AM

Post #9747665

Evelyn...Don't kmow yet...lol. Figure since it's got a woody type stem in could be a good candidate. Will let you know...that's if I can still find some green on the stems, usually they die back to a few inches above ground over the winter but we had that minus temps early this season and then a second blast so not sure what I'll find. Still snow on the ground and am getting more now (2" so far), so melting off will be a few days away...darn. But I will let you know if I get any.. Mine is Santolina virens, the green one.. love the smell of them. In summer I tend to awalk by and give them a brush thru my hands so I can smell them while doing chores close by. Lavender is another I like to do that to also...YUM!!

Ok..More things that have been started: Alcea mix; Papaver orientalis: mixed, Brilliant Red, Marlene, Coral Reef; Campanula not sure if clips series or persicifolia...label on packet not clear but if stated height is correct they should be persifs. in both Blue and White, latifolia in both white and purple, Zeger, Rapunculus; Antirrhinum (snaps) majus Royal Bride, Madame Butterfly, Plum Blossum, nanum Black Prince; Digitalis purpurea Candy Mountain Peach, Pam's Split; Dietes iridoides; Delphinium requineii, Alcea rosea Black Watchman, Donkehart, and yellow. More today as soon as the snow melts off the pots I just brought inside...duh..I forgot to bring them in yesterday. Ok off to play, sure would like to be as lucky at the Casinos as I am with starting seeds...Kathy.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 14, 2014
1:42 PM

Post #9747848

Gals, here is some information I found for Santolina virens. Accordig to the source, it is only hardy in zones 7 to 9, the reason I never grew it.

http://www.backyardgardener.com/plantname/pda_e005.html
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 14, 2014
4:29 PM

Post #9747960

OK, I am in zone 8 and many are growing in my landscape. I want to propagate more. The deer do not like to eat it! Yay!! ^_^
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 15, 2014
4:32 AM

Post #9748236

I have the silver Santalina coming back since 2008, Zone 5. The sites I see it listed on rate it for Zone 6. It usually has some winter dieback so I cut it off a few inches from the ground every year and it fills out beautifully.

Kathy, you have been busy! That's quite a list! What are Zeger, and latifolia? That Delphinium looks interesting. Have you grown any Delphs from seed before? My Pacific Giants aren't doing anything yet. Just to be on the safe side I'm ordering a few types from Graceful Gardens. I can always find room for more blue, lol. I bought Campanalua Clips seeds, both blue and white, now waiting for germination. Maybe I'll have extras in the spring for your box.

The funniest thing has happened... I thought I was down to 1 Lupine, so the other day I started a second batch of seeds. Since then, the one that looked like it was dying threw off the damaged cotyledons and started showing true leaves, and the one that had sprouted in the paper towel but never came up suddenly appeared, that made 3 out of the first three.., and 2 more seeds from that batch germinated. So now there are 5. And the new batch has been soaked, frozen, and should start showing soon. So I guess I'll have quite a large patch after all :-).

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

January 15, 2014
4:54 AM

Post #9748249

Pam do you soak then Freeze ? or freeze then soak ? & Plnt
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 15, 2014
6:13 AM

Post #9748289

I soak 24 hours, then freeze in the baggy 24 hours. I usually wait until they sprouting the damp paper towel before I plant, especially the big seeds. But little ones, like Campanula, I've been planting within a couple of days.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 15, 2014
8:02 AM

Post #9748375

Pam..if you would like some Lupine I had scads of a mix of deep dark Red and a dark Purple. Not sure on Zeger as the seed came from a trade with someone in the Netherlands..The latifolia is about 36", flowers are more single and spaced a bit apart on the stem but more toward the top of the stem... The one I want to find is C. lactiflora which is more of a clustered type flower like a Phlox paniculata. I saw it on a garden tour years ago and fell in love with it...
Yes on growing delphs from seed, germination can take 7-21 days...

Evelyn...do you have the silver or the green? I just love the dark green one! This will be my first time trying to propagate.

wow, am suprized at the zone listed as a 7, I've had them in a few gardens at various alltitudes and they always come back for me...

Yes busy again yesterday, here's a list of newly seeded: Polemonium c. Alba; Antirrhinum Red 24-36"; Lysimachia atropurpea; Delphinium; White Galahad, Lilac/White bee, Dark Blue/Dark eye, Mid Blue/White bee, ? (forgot to write color on envi), Summer Skies; Chrysanthemum Clara Curtice; Penstemon palmerii (think I might have lost the plant in the garden tho not sure); Veronica spicata 18", spicata Sight Seeing Blue 28" (last summer I saw plants of white and pink in the garden and hope they make it thru the winter and I'll collect seed this year as I would like a patch of both); Centaurea: phygria Yellow, phygria Purple and found a plant of White in the garden last summer and got seed am now trying to grow, Macrocephala which is yellow; Lilium formosianum Pricei; Echinacea p. White Swan; Knautia macedonica maroon; Scabiosa c. Blue; Aqilegia c. Alba, McKennas Hyb Yellow which is the fragrant one; Rudbeckia hirta Prairie Sun.
Not sure what I'll get seeded today...but still have plenty to do yet...

I was thinking of trying to do a spread sheet type of listing of my seed starting with germination times in my Journal that could be referred to by myself and others but not sure how to do it. Anyone have the knowledge of how to accomplish this>>>? Later all...Kathy.

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

January 15, 2014
9:33 AM

Post #9748461

How or where do you store them in the paper towel till they sprout ? or when do you put them into growing soil ? sorry for all the ??? really want to do it right .

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 15, 2014
11:20 AM

Post #9748524

deejay9...If the seeds are from hardy perennials then store the moist paper towel in a small baggie placed in the fridge for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, bring them into room temp and they should begin to sprout within 2 or 3 weeks depending on the variety. Once they root, plant them in potting soil and grow under light until it is safe to plant out.

ROSES_R_RED

ROSES_R_RED
Mount Bethel, PA
(Zone 6a)

January 15, 2014
1:18 PM

Post #9748582

Just wanted to share some REALLY good news about taking all the tedious work out of keeping hundreds of seedlings moist in flats under lights. In another area his hint is to leave one of the center cells empty so that you can pour water easily into your flat.

http://allthingsplants.com/ideas/view/RickCorey/646/Bottom-Watering-Seedling-Trays-with-Cotton-Flannel-Prevents-Water-Logging/
Mipii
(Robin) Blissfield, MI
(Zone 6a)

January 15, 2014
2:23 PM

Post #9748647

Thanks RRR, that was very good and useful!

ROSES_R_RED

ROSES_R_RED
Mount Bethel, PA
(Zone 6a)

January 15, 2014
2:39 PM

Post #9748654

Your welcome, Pipli. I will definitely try this.

meadowyck

meadowyck
Brooksville, FL
(Zone 9a)

January 15, 2014
6:35 PM

Post #9748795

such a simply thing as that to make it so much easier... gosh, thanks for sharing.

Jan
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 15, 2014
9:04 PM

Post #9748885

[quote="warriorswisdomkathy"]Evelyn...do you have the silver or the green? I just love the dark green one! This will be my first time trying to propagate.

Wow, am suprized at the zone listed as a 7, I've had them in a few gardens at various alltitudes and they always come back for me...[/quote]

I have many different varieties of Santolina. I might take some cuttings, when I get the chance.

I have the regular S. virens which grows behind a Cystisus scoparius up front by the road. Every year the snow knocks down the foliage, but it starts growing again once the weather warms up. It has a trunk on it over an inch thick, but is a wimp as far as being a shrub.

All of my other santolinas are hardy. There are the standard silvers, and a smaller silver variety, of which the name tag has been long gone, a new one that is a variegated green with yellow mostly when the weather warms, and is much hardier than S. virens...I have 5 of those.

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 16, 2014
12:46 AM

Post #9748934

Susie, this is how I do Deno: Fold a paper towel in half, then fold it again. Dampen it, put the seeds and a label on one half, then fold it over again. Then put it in a Ziplock baggie. I put several in the baggie together. The seeds stay separate in the folded paper towels.

If the seeds need a cold treatment, this year I've been putting the baggie in the freezer for 24 hours. So far, that has been working very well.

The article on bottom watering was very interesting. I've been doing that for years, using capillary matting on a platform over a well filled with water. I started out years ago with a system that came with all the parts. I've always been a weekend gardener, and that has taken away all the worry about keeping little seedlings from drying out. Burpee and Gardener's Supply have good systems, but for the last couple of years. I've gotten mine from IGS. I like their Permanest trays, they are nice looking and sturdy.

http://indoorgardensupplies.com/product/watering-devices/self-watering-kit/
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 16, 2014
1:47 AM

Post #9748936

Here are a few pictures from last year, showing Deno packages (1, 2), and bottom watering. Pic 3 is the matting from Burpee, with a thin layer of some synthetic fabric over it so the roots don't grow into it. PC 3 the white trays from IGS. Pic 4, the black ones from Gardener's Supply. I use these outside as well for hardening off and holding until ready to plant. They are a little bigger and really strong.

Thumbnail by Pfg   Thumbnail by Pfg   Thumbnail by Pfg   Thumbnail by Pfg   Thumbnail by Pfg
Click an image for an enlarged view.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 16, 2014
6:08 AM

Post #9749023

Plant stand setup setback: DH wants to affix power strips to each stand, and I'm waiting for him to do so. I can work a zip tie, but he has a man plan and I'm not going to discourage him.

I purchased seed for Mandevilla laxa for the third year in a row. I've tried the Deno method, light, dark, warmth, in soil lightly covered, in soil not covered, but zero germination. Ever. Any thoughts on this?

JL Hudson order is shipped, but hasn't arrived. Mail carrier now knocks on door and hands me the mail if there are seeds. LOL I pay her in vegetables and flowers in the summer, and other goodies I make.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 16, 2014
7:34 AM

Post #9749084

Celene...Mandevilla suaveolens...germ. 70*dark (90% in 1-3 wks Light had no effect...

Mandevilla suaveolens, Fresh seeds germ. 70*L (8/8 in 4 d-3 w) indicating a half life of about 6m. and seeds DS 1 yr germ. 70D (1/3 in 2nd w) indicating a half life of about 6m, and seeds DS 2 y were dead..

Info from Deno Method...

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 16, 2014
7:46 AM

Post #9749092

Thank you! Maybe this year will be the year it germinates!
Mipii
(Robin) Blissfield, MI
(Zone 6a)

January 16, 2014
2:04 PM

Post #9749363

Chuckle at Celene..."I can work a zip tie, but he has a man plan"

Pam, nice setup!

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 16, 2014
9:03 PM

Post #9749615

Celen...are you trying to germinate Mandevilla suaveolens to grow in your zone. If so, it needs to be in a pot to overwinter in the house. It is only hardy from zone 8 and up. It is a tropical vine.

Here is some information I came across to germinate seeds.

For better results, soak the mandevilla seeds in water for about twelve hours prior to sowing them in well-draining soil. Mandevilla seeds require shallow planting, only covering them slightly with soil. Keep these moist and warm (about 65-75 degrees F.) and place them in bright, indirect light. The seeds should germinate within a month or so.

Good Luck!

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 17, 2014
5:21 AM

Post #9749740

I know it won't overwinter outdoors here, I plan to try and overwinter it indoors. I have a plant/cat/workout room and I suspect it'll go in there. Unless my variegated Pandanus continues to grow at the speed of light, then I may have to shift my plans.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 17, 2014
9:10 PM

Post #9750315

Newly started: Helenium Rotgold Helen's Flower; Armeria m. Bee's Hybrids; Echinacea palida yellow; Antirrhinum majus Rocket Pink; Aquilegia Winky Blue; Geum pink; Tomato: Chocolate Cherry, Blackfoot, Tidwell German, Porter, Mexico, Rosy Morn, Dora, Sweet 100, Deiner, Verde Tomatilla, Sophie's Choice, Brandywine Sudduth's Strain, Arkansas Travelor; Dianthus: armurensis Siberian Blues, X Loveliness mix, Knappii; Aquilegia vulgaris Winky Red and White, Black Barlow; Salpiglossis Grandiflora Mix; Coleous Black Dragon; Asclepias; incarnata Pink, syriaca, tuberosa,variegata; Vespers Iris; Hibiscus mochatus Lord Baltimore, Lady Baltimore, Summer Storm, coccineus Red, Dinnerplate Pink; Lilium Lancer.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 18, 2014
3:54 AM

Post #9750364

I am curious to see how you do with the Salpiglossis. They germinate well for me, then they all die.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 18, 2014
4:05 AM

Post #9750368

Wow, that's a lot of tomatoes!

I'm curious to see what you get from Dianthus Siberian Blue. I started mine 1/5, soaked 24 hours then Deno. I got the first couple of sprouts 5 days later, then a couple more. Since then nothing, for a total of 4.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 18, 2014
7:51 AM

Post #9750476

I wintersowed those Siberian Blue dianthus, and they grew well the first year, but didn't overwinter for me. I suspect the soil wasn't well-amended enough, I should try again.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 18, 2014
8:00 AM

Post #9750481

Hmmmm... What's your zone? Our soil is pretty rich, and the drainage is quite good because we are on a slope. Also lots of rocks in the soil, which also helps. I've been lucky with all the Dianthus I've tried so far. This has been a tough winter, so far though, extra cold snaps, single digits and below, with long warm thaws in between. Other years the lowest has been above 10.

I'm curious to see what makes it through. I'm also very glad that I got just about everything except a few daylilies and iris out of containers and into the ground and mulched before we left.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 18, 2014
8:06 AM

Post #9750486

I am Zone 6. I think drainage was my problem, I have clay soil I've been amending for years.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 18, 2014
8:15 AM

Post #9750497

I think they're a little fussy about that, but don't know from personal experience. Interesting that you winter sow. I didn't give this year's crop any cold treatment, maybe I should try another batch that way.

I just looked, and I'm up to 5 seedlings today, maybe they just need more time.

Also sprouting today: Platycodon Perlmutterschale, one more Asclepias Tuberosa, and a Lupine from the 2nd batch.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 18, 2014
8:27 AM

Post #9750506

I have a bunch of Dianthus species and cultivars, too. Another genus that I really enjoy.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 18, 2014
12:50 PM

Post #9750663

Me too. I have lots of different ones, at least I hope I still do!

Sprouting today, now planted under the dome: Platy Perlmutterschale, a couple of Lupines from the 2nd batch, 3 more Asclepias.

The Campanula Pyramidalis came up in tight little bunches, so today I separated them. Tiny, tiny roots, in some cases almost none. I forgot they're surface sown, the leaves come first. I have 2 dozen cells now, a few double planted in case they don't all make it. I was using the magnifying glass to help see what I was doing. Took forever!
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 18, 2014
12:58 PM

Post #9750671

One more thing I did today is finally try the ice cube trick. Nothing is happening with the Aquilegia seeds after soaking and 2 sessions in the freezer a few days apart. So I put the whole Deno baggie in a separate container and put a cube on top of it. I guess I should do it a couple of times a day?

Thumbnail by Pfg
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evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 18, 2014
5:33 PM

Post #9750829

Kathy ~ Did you start all of them indoors under lights or winter sow??

I am also curious about the salpiglossis.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 18, 2014
5:52 PM

Post #9750839

So, I ordered some salpiglossis to try again, you inspired me. :)

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 18, 2014
9:08 PM

Post #9750918

[quote="Pfg"]One more thing I did today is finally try the ice cube trick. Nothing is happening with the Aquilegia seeds after soaking and 2 sessions in the freezer a few days apart. So I put the whole Deno baggie in a separate container and put a cube on top of it. I guess I should do it a couple of times a day?[/quote]

You need to do it morning, then evening for flunctuating temps. Also, it may not work when you place the ice on top. Place the ice in a container with the seeds.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 19, 2014
7:00 AM

Post #9751100

I ordered some fragrant Aquilegia from Chiltern's, I'm going to try half this method, half WS and see how they do. I got Green Apples from JL Hudson and it germinated well last year, but I'm worried because the plants were smallish, and we've had two serious cold spells. They're well-mulched and protected, but I may plant more just in case. Worst thing that'll happen, I'll give away some seedlings.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 19, 2014
9:19 AM

Post #9751171

Evelyn...yes all under lights now and many things are already sprouting. Yeah!! So far I've started 125 things, mostly perenns., the Tomatos and a few Biennials. I've got 4 trays filled and as I take them out from under the Dome I will start a few other things til March when I start most of the annuals. So far as of this morning I have had 23 pots begin sprouting.

Celene...come on, which fragrant Aquilegia? Sweet Rainbows, Denver's Gold or another Chrysantha? Or might there now be New ones for us to get? LOL.

I'll let you know when my Aquilegias begin sprouting with my method...probably within a week tho. Looking at past records they've sprouted between 7-18 days, depending on variety. Most were approx 14 days. with no treatment other than warmth and lights. And some of my seed is 10 years old too. In fact many things I'll be using are some of my older seed to replenish my seed stash so I can share things that I haven't in the past because it's old... Ie, like the Ammi majus Rubra that I regrew so I could have fresh even tho the seed was more than 10yrs old and still germinated just fine. Also found some old seed of Cephalaria gigantea and alpina, so am trying both of those, fingers are crossed as I'ld love to have both blooming in the garden again, (it's one of those oddball plants from T&M when they use to carry more varieties... Celene can you check to see if Chiltern sells them ? Thanks, always thought about getting their catalog but haven't gotten around to it... Maybe would be too much eye candy..lol, I'm joking.

Newly started:Cephalaria alpina and gigantea; Lupine Red and Purple mix, Red; Verbascum phoenicium; Aquilegia Maggie May,;Lupine a 2 tone purple; Anthemis unk which tho; Dianthus X Loveliness Dark Rose Pink; Jasione; Rudbeckia Blk Eyed Susan; Dracocephalum imberbe; Ceratostigma plumbaginoides; Lupine Gallery white ; Malva sylvestris ssp Mauritiana Bibor Fehlo, Zebrinus; Virginia Bunch Flower (Melianthium); Dierama mix; Dianthus barbatus Bicolor, Salmon Pink, and Red; Rose Leontin Gervalse, Wild pink 'Kevin's Pink Rose' ; Anchusa carpensis "Blue Angel'; Salvia 'Coral Nymph'; Lillium phillipiense; Penstemon x mexicale 'Pike's Peak Purple', 'Red Rocks'; Rose old fashioned (? wish people would do a better job of labeling); Achilea ptarmica 'The Pearl Superior'; and Salvia Indigo Spires.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 19, 2014
11:17 AM

Post #9751233

Kathy, do you know what your room temp is? I now have a thermometer under my dome, and the temp has been fluctuating in the 70's, usually around 75 during the day, the highest I saw was 78. It might be a little cooler at night. Maybe that's my problem with Aquilegia.

I'm very surprised, I thought so close to the glass it would be cooler, even though like most NYC apartments it's quite warm inside. The buildings control the heat, residents don't and it's way too hot in most. Our apartment is on an inner courtyard so there is no wind at all, and even in the super cold spell we kept a couple of windows cracked. They're usually more open than that. We actually have had all our radiators removed or turned off or we'd be miserable.

I can move some seeds closer to an open window, that might be better for Aquilegia in particular. My A Maggie Mae came from you and I still have some more so I can try again.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 19, 2014
12:56 PM

Post #9751314

I misspoke, they are from Plant World. Aquilegia fragrans, and Aquilegia Fragrant Fantasy. The Green Apples, def. JL Hudson.

Will the Lilium phillipiense be hardy for you? I got gift seed with an order for those, and worried about hardiness. All lilies have to live in my front yard, so my dogs won't eat them accidentally, but I love the look of them.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 19, 2014
1:02 PM

Post #9751318

Chiltern's does not have the Cephalaria, Seedaholic does have it, though.

This message was edited Jan 19, 2014 8:22 PM

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 19, 2014
1:20 PM

Post #9751335

The ebay seller Pase Seeds has them. I've ordered from them quite a few times, let me look through their prodigious selection and see if there's anything I want to tack on a pack for you. I wouldn't mind having one of those, but it looks like they're hard to germinate.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 19, 2014
3:33 PM

Post #9751422

[quote="Celene"] Chiltern's does not have the Cephalaria, Seedaholic does have it, though.[/quote]

Celene ~ To which Cephalaria are you referring? They have C.alpina, C.gigantea and C.leucantha.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 19, 2014
5:23 PM

Post #9751484

C. gigantea, sorry.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 19, 2014
11:03 PM

Post #9751618

Not sure what the temp is in there, probably 70*s during the day with the lights on and night temps get into the lower 60*s. Give your Aquilegia some more time...don't give up on them yet...

Will try to find more on the Lily p. I read somewhere last year it can bloom first year. Found another site that states 8-10 months from seed...so I'll do more research. Got in a trade from poisondartfrog so may try to contact her for more info.

Ok...am frustrated...lol. Spent all day typing my seed info into a new file on Word and now I can't get it on here, only accepts jpg type files...any ideas?
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 20, 2014
5:51 AM

Post #9751720

Thanks, I'm not that much warmer, maybe 5 degrees. Definitely not over 80.

Has anyone grown Prunella Grandiflora? It's another slow germinator. Swallowtail says 21-60 days, Clothier says to chill if no germination after 3-4 weeks at 68*. It hasn't been that long yet, but I'm going to start another batch and give it the freeze treatment, see if that speeds things up any.

Kathy, can you Copy and Paste the info directly into the message box? Go to Edit, Select All, Copy, then click where you want to put it and click on Edit, Paste.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 20, 2014
6:28 AM

Post #9751741

If the Word document is formatted at all--tables, lists, etc. it may show up weird here. You can take a screen shot, paste it into a blank Word document, crop as needed, then right click and save as an image.

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

January 21, 2014
9:05 AM

Post #9752617

can anyone tell me if these can be winter sown Please ?
gypsophila panicula dbl baby breath
mexican hat
Nigella

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 21, 2014
9:38 AM

Post #9752645

Suzie...I've had my gypso p. actually do some reseeding in the garden because they were'nt deadheaded. So you could try direct sowing with some seed. Also Mexican hat here is wild, I took mature seed and sprinkled about the garden and now I'm getting a few plants here and there. I did sprinkled seed of Nigella out there this fall, fingers are crossed...

Remind me come spring and if you would like some more plants I'll see what I can come up with. Maybe do I need to send smaller plants than last year? If I remember they get a long tap root and some of it was broken.. Come spring let me know if those from last year made it, if not will look for smaller plants for ya.. If the larger one(s) made it I've got several big ones that are deffinately in the wrong spot and would be glad to share!!! This patch reached 10ft square by 4' tall last season.

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy   Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy         
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Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 21, 2014
6:38 PM

Post #9753058

I wintersowed Prunella and it germinated well.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 22, 2014
8:31 AM

Post #9753369

Personally have grown both Ceph. alpina and gigantea, from seed I got at T&M back in the 90's. So some of my seed is old, But did get some in a trade a year ago and it didn't grow, so am hoping the older seed will sprout..and even will try some in the garden. I have a friend that has one in his garden, not sure which tho, anyway he gave me a baby from his garden, hope it makes it thru the winter and come spring I get a nice sized baby and some blooms.!

Evelyn...Have all my Asclepias sprouted now, all were started on 1/16, am giving germination dates for me using my method:
Asclepias incarnata Pink, 1/22
syriaca, 1/20
tuberosa, 1/20
variegata, 1/22
As of this morning I have 59 pots that have sprout out of 125, almost half in just 11 days. I check twice a day, and move any sprouted to another tray so I can keep track. Aquilegias should be any day now and will let you know when they do.

If there is any specific info on any of those I've already listed just ask. Will try to figure out how to get a spread sheet here or into my files at Dave's but til then ask and I'll share the info.

NOTE: I sent a d-mail to ADMIN to see if they can create some sort of a spreadsheet in our Diary or personal info area that we have the option to use for such info on seed starting. That way we could all use the same style and share amonst ourselves. Everyone else is welcomed to send them one also...maybe we can get something if they realize it would be much appreciated by those of us that grow from seed or those wanting to. Later...Kathy

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy
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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 22, 2014
1:37 PM

Post #9753568

And I started a thread on the DG forum asking about spreadsheets. My post also has a link to the Record Keeping thread. If enough of us ask, maybe something will,happen ;-)

Salvia Transylvanica started germinating already, 6 have good sprouts started. It's only been a couple of days since I took them out of the soak. :-)

Funny, last year I had no luck at all with it, and this year it's sooooo easy... Go figure...

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 22, 2014
6:11 PM

Post #9753718

I have years like that, too.

RickCorey_WA

RickCorey_WA
Everett, WA
(Zone 8a)

January 22, 2014
6:37 PM

Post #9753739

Celene said:
>> I am Zone 6. I think drainage was my problem, I have clay soil I've been amending for years.

My first raised bed wasn't even half built before I learned that I had to improve the drainage before I could improve the clay.

Now I either dig a slit trench to a lower spot, and then slope the floor of the bed down to the trench, or I make the raised beds entirely above grade. And "above grade" frustrates me, because I WANT to improve the soil and have roots going down deeper than they could before.

>> You can take a screen shot, paste it into a blank Word document, crop as needed, then right click and save as an image.

I also do that to get Tables into DG posts.

I didn't know that I could just right click and save as an image. After I got a cropped image in the Word doc, I would copy it to the Clipboard, then paste it into an empty JPG in MS Office. For some reason, that automatically saves it as a new image file.

Thumbnail by RickCorey_WA   Thumbnail by RickCorey_WA   Thumbnail by RickCorey_WA   Thumbnail by RickCorey_WA   
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Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 22, 2014
6:46 PM

Post #9753753

I have been improving the soil with 6" of composted, shredded leaves and pine bark fines every year for the last 10 years or so. I added a bunch of sand and not enough organic material and got a real cementy effect the first year. Not so good, but lots of compost and rototiller action got me started in the right direction the next year.

How do you get an empty jpg?

TIA!

StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 24, 2014
6:24 AM

Post #9754598

Hi all, I'm new to this forum :)
I started some tomato seeds on Wednesday, using peat pots (not to be confused w plugs) and filling them with seed starting mix, planting the seed, then covering it lightly with seed starting mix that I had sifted. I moistened them thoroughly with a mister then bottom watered to fully moisten the pots. I put the trays on top of my water heater (since I've yet to buy heat mats), and when checking on them yesterday, I noticed one of the little pots had a twig (no doubt from the unsifted mix) sticking out and was fuzzy with mold, fungus, something like that. What the heck! After only one day? Should I use peroxide? I'm so frustrated, I have 117 pots going now, and would seriously cry my eyes out if I had to start over :(

Thanks for letting me whine, hope someone has experience with this and can lead me in the right direction.

Becky ❁

Thumbnail by StillPlaysWDirt
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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 24, 2014
7:33 AM

Post #9754641

I got a lot of that white stuff last year when I was using coir as a medium. By sifting the top layer, you may have removed peat, perlite, whatever else was mixed in and left mostly coir. I don't think it's a problem, especially since you have the complete mix underneath. I didn't like coir at all, found it too heavy and wet for good germination. Again, you shouldn't have a problem with a light layer on top, specially for tomatoes. IMO they come up no matter what:-)

But if you want to do something...

I always water with 10:1 water:peroxide, the drugstore kind (3%), not the stronger hair coloring kind (20% or more). The extra molecule of oxygen helps the plants a lot. There is a website devoted to its use:

http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com/peroxide-garden.html

Also, a sprinkle of cinnamon on top helps prevent mold, fungus gnats, etc. This year I'm mixing it into the planting mix before I even moisten it.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 24, 2014
9:32 AM

Post #9754739

Becky..., Welcome!
I have never found that Cinnamon or Peroxide kills mildew. Peroxide is for human infections. Fungicide is for plant diseases like Rust, Mildew, Black Spots, which are spread by spores.

I use Ortho Fungicide mixed according to directions at first sign, followed up in 7 days if needed. Mildew is caused by too much moisture, coupled with warmth

I have used peat pots years ago and never liked them because they get soft from moisture when used and can fall apart. I had to put a rubberband around them. Also, when watered, they stay too wet which causes disease. Years ago, when I sowed a lot of seeds indoors, I used a seeding mix.

Nor did I use a heating mat for tomatoes seeds. Room temp (70-75) is fine and less chance for disease to get started.

RickCorey_WA

RickCorey_WA
Everett, WA
(Zone 8a)

January 24, 2014
6:12 PM

Post #9755042

I never had white fuzz, but I used to have a lot of damping off.

The second-most helpful thing that seemed to cure that for me was keeping the top layer of the mix drier than I used to, by bottom watering more than surface-spraying. That also minimizes over-watering, perched water and root rot.

I put a cotton flannel mat between my plastic plug cells or inserts, and the water-holding 1020 tray. That way, I could hold off on watering until the flannel mat was starting to dry out, indicating that the seedling mix at the bottom of each cell was starting to get dry.

I would water only a little at a time, directly onto the mat, until the mat was damp and stayed damp for a few minutes. I never have any standing water to make the mix soggy. There is a little water in the tray's grooves under the mat.

It is faster to water all at once (6 ounces? 4-8 oz, anyway), enough to get the mat really wet but no standing water. Then turn up a corner of the mat and use a turkey baster to remove some of the water in the groves. It helps to cut one cell or insert off to give you a corner to inspect, water, and suck water from.

StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 24, 2014
6:38 PM

Post #9755060

Pfg - you know, I never even thought of that, sifting out the mix just seemed like it would make it easier to work with while covering the seeds, but I see where you're coming from. And I really do hope these babies come up *no matter what* lol. Funny that you mention the cinnamon, I've heard of people dipping their cuttings in cinnamon to prevent growth of mold, but didn't even think of it in regards to my seedling issue! I already dusted them, hope it works, and hope the 'root inhibiting' theory some have pertaining to cinnamon are just a rumor.. If not, I just murdered my babies! Someone here on DG recently told me, rather than wait for the right moment and waste any more time, might as well give it a shot now. You never know, might work, if not, lesson learned right? So here I am flying by the seat of my pants :)

Blomma - if the cinnamon doesn't work, that fungicide will be by next step! I'm finding that the peat pots are already getting a little mushy, and the soil within them isn't sopping wet either, just moist enough so that it still springs back when pressed lightly. I have a bunch of 20 cell flats, the type that you typically see pansies for sale in at the nursery. They were great for seed starting last year, but I was trying to conserve some space this time around and went with the peat pots instead. What type of container do you prefer for indoor seed starting? Do you add anything like super thrive to give them a jump start? And trust me, I would have rather kept them out of my utility closet, but I keep my house on the cooler side, 67-69 degrees F. during the winter. I thought maybe they wouldn't germinate at that low a temp and then have to deal with rotten seeds. You think they'd do okay at those lower temps? I have round two of my indoor starts coming up in the next few weeks and it would be so much easier to set them out somewhere else.

Okay sorry about the novel here folks, thanks again for the excellent advice. I'd be lost without it!

RickCorey_WA

RickCorey_WA
Everett, WA
(Zone 8a)

January 24, 2014
6:38 PM

Post #9755061

The MOST helpful thing that cured damping off for me was keeping the top layer of the mix very dry. I think that would prevent your fungus or mold (though yours MIGHT be caused by something organic in your mix, or some organic fertilizer, or humid stagnant air).

Sprinkle very coarse grit or Perlite on top, so the top layer dries out faster. I think that bark chips, shreds or small nuggets are better, but don't ask me why. I can tell how dry bark is from the color, maybe.

Then don't top-water, or do it seldom. Only the seed needs water, not the top layer of mix. If you can't recue the fungus, next year try pre-soking the seeds for hours or overnight in 1:32 peroxide, 1 oz of 3% H2O2 per quart of water, or 1.5 tsp per cup of water. If they sprout much faster once sown, you can give them cool dry air sooner and discourage mold.

I keep my top layer dry by making the whole mix drain much faster, hence it stays much better aerated.

Most people seem to like adding Perlite or grit to commercial peat-powder mixes , but since I read Al's or Tapla's "gritty mix" threads in container gardening, I have had a total bark fetish for all soil mixes.

Screen some unusually clean medium-size mulch made from evergreen bark. Pine, fir or balsam bark if anyone at the garden center has a clue.

Often "Bark nuggets" will be much cleaner and drier than "mulch", but maybe that's just the difference between Home Depot (mulch = filthy, soggy, fermenting logyard trash) and Lowes (fine bark nuggets were dry and clean and had little powder).

Or pay twice as much for really classy bark mulch at a pricey nursery. That's where I found an $8 bag of clean bark CHIPS and long shreds. 2 cubic feet. Loved it!

Screen them so that the part you use is somewhat bigger than coarse Perlite. The bark holds a little water internally, which Perlite does not. I think that sizes from 0.1" (say 2 mm, smaller than BBs) up to 4-5 mm (less than 1/4", say 3/16) are good for small cells. Elongated bark chips are better than spheres or cubes, but use what you have.

You can use bark that passes very easily through 1/4" hardware cloth, as long as you don't get much dust and powder and fine fibers with it. Better would be to use 1/8" hardware cloth to "de-dust" the bark. Or try to winnow or blow some of the dust away, to get a fast-draining amendment.

Most people will add a little bark or Perlite to a commercial mix. If your commercial mix has a lot of fine peat, or worst of all, peat powder, it's a losing battle. If you're stuck with a big bag of commercial mix that has little or no "loft", you would have to add 90% bark to 10% peat powder.

If the commercial mix has mostly long semi-coarse fibers and some air in it, you might get by with a 50-50 mix or 70-30 either way, depending on how "OPEN" the mix started out being.

Any powdery component like short peat fibers or fine sand or medium sand will just fill up the gaps between bark nuggets or Perlite pearls, defeating the goal of drainage and aeration.

Besides, at $3.50 to $4.25 for 2 cubic feet, bark is much cheaper than any seedling mix known to man! Use lots of relatively coarse bark, especially if you water often.

What I do now is screen my bark and see how much of the bark fines I can remove. If I have NO bark powder, and a decent potting mix, I START with my bark, and then ADD 10-20% commercial mix. I use the mix just for improved wicking and water retention.

StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 24, 2014
6:51 PM

Post #9755071

Rick, great info. I've read Al's threads on container mixes also but was unable to track down the pine fines and turface nearby so gave up. Maybe I'll give it another go, since I have many many more plants this year in comparison to last..

And I have been only bottom watering since my initial spray to wet down the surface layer, but there isn't any batting between my pots and tray. No capillary or 'wicking' action, so maybe that explains my soggy bottom problem. Lol

Ok, off to read up a little more on these topics. Can never do too much research :D

RickCorey_WA

RickCorey_WA
Everett, WA
(Zone 8a)

January 24, 2014
7:04 PM

Post #9755077

I forgot the first thing I wanted to say!

If your sifting put the FINEST parts of the mix on top, that might be undesirable for big, vigorous seeds like tomatoes. They can push their way to the surface through fairly heavy or coarse mix.

A fine surface layer will hold a maximum amount of water and stay wetter longer. I started putting coarser bits on the surface so they would dry out fast and NOT constantly wick water up to meet the damping-off spores.

Anything dissolved in the water or soil mix will be wicked to the surface and deposited on the surface as it evaporates. Up there, it will provide nourishment to any mold spores that blow in on the air.

If you are starting tiny, dust-like seeds, you DO need a fine, smooth surface to keep the seeds from falling into the cracks of a coarse mix. I killed a whole tray of petunias that way (128 cells, 200-250 seeds. Sprinkle vermiculite on top of the coarse mix. I HOPE that vermiculite is more sterile than most mixes, or at least that it doesn't encourage mold like organic things do.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 24, 2014
7:26 PM

Post #9755086

So far I haven't needed a fungicide.

StillPlays... Are all those cells planted with tomatoes? They really aren't very fussy at all. I think your biggest problem is going to be that tomatoes get big fast, and their roots are going to be bursting out of those little cells before you know it.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 25, 2014
8:13 AM

Post #9755354

Ok, I'll spoil all your fun gang. LOL,. Almost all my Tomatoes are up using my method... 14 out of 18 varieties... Started 1/14, started germinating 6 days later. I start with peat/peralite mix, sprinkle seeds and top with vermiculite. Surface spray with water to dampen the top only, spray 2X a day every day and also put a lid on them to keep the humidity in. My babies are looking good, no damping off. I start many seeds to a pot and tranfer them into individual pots when ready (or should say when I'm ready...lol.

Todays count is 125 pots,(each has different variety of goodies) and 75 have sprouted. And Pam the Dianthus armurensis is up along with most of the Platiesand Salvia.

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StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 25, 2014
8:40 AM

Post #9755373

Kathy - I am completely blown away by your seed starting ambitions! Maybe one day.. Sigh.. Lol! Your pics sure are motivating to me though!

Pfg - yes they are planted wih tomatoes. I had read that tomatoes benefit from at least one 'pot up' before transplanting out to the garden, suggesting that you start the seeds in small cells, pots, etc, then when 1 - 2 sets of true leaves are present, you pot them on to 4 inch deep pots. But then again, I got this info from google so who knows.. Bad idea? I welcome any and all advice :)

Worst thing that can happen is I kill them and learn what NOT to do next time. Not that I wouldn't cry if it came to that though! Lol
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 25, 2014
9:14 AM

Post #9755398

WOW Kathy-- Did you get good germination with the Dianthus amurensis? Mine was disappointing, I only have 4 good seedlings. Maybe they do better without all the torture? ;-)

Seriously, StillPlays, tomatoes are very forgiving, you'll see. You have nothing to worry about. And most of us do start clustered in a small-ish container, or, like you, single seed per plug, then move plants up. Some would rather start bigger and move up later. I am always trying to get the most mileage out of limited space so I start small. I use the Deno method (damp paper towel in a baggy until seeds begin to sprout) or cluster in one container instead of using plug trays. We all have our favorite ways of doing things. Some, like me, like to experiment a little with different methods, especially with new types of plants.

I'm not starting my tomatoes for a few weeks yet, just don't have the indoor space for them to get so big. In my zone they can't go outside before some time in May, and that's with frost protection, so if I start now they'd be huuuuuuge busy then. Also, I don't do beefsteaks at all. We don't get enough heat and sun for them, they get gross. And the cherries are sooooo good... There are farmstands all over the place with big open fields, no interference from mature trees like we have, so we can have as many big tomatoes as we want, as long as we remember to stop and pick them up, lol.

Linum and Salvia Transylvanica germinating quickly now after just a few days. All the Lupines and Platycodons are up, all except my double pink sport. Asclepias Tuberosa look fine, moved them into 2.5" pots, not because they needed it, but I had the time and space! after I set up flat #2.

I'm amazed at how sloooooow the Campanulas are! The C pyramidalis, started first, are still really little, and the C carpatica Clips series have been translucent threads for days now, only a couple showing any green. I think they're even slower than petunias. I found a commercial growers website that says C Clips takes 24 weeks to flower, that's 6 months. They also say in order to get 1 plant per cell to sow 8-10 seeds per plug. I got better germination than that, more like 6-8 from about 25 seeds, so maybe the soak-and-freeze helped.

Pic 1: The setup
Pic 2: Under the dome
Pic 3: Asclepias and Lupines

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StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 25, 2014
9:34 AM

Post #9755420

Ok good to know. Now do you do Deno to germ all seeds? A large percentage of mine are good candidates for winter sow, but it would be more convenient to do Deno rather than have flat after flat of seeds that have erratic germination or none at all. I just don't have that kind of real estate indoors. Not until the kids start growing up and moving out.. LOL (or they could stay home with me awhile after that, but I highly doubt they will..)

Did the asclepias require special treatment? I heard they can be fussy to germinate. For me, they will be winter sown.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 25, 2014
11:05 AM

Post #9755472

I soaked the Asclepias for 48 hours, starting in hand-hot water. I refreshed the water after 24 hours. Then the Deno package went into the freezer for 24 hours. This is something I'm trying for the first time year, instead of weeks in the fridge, and it seems to be working well for most things that need stratification. I saw the first tiny radicals in 4 days, only 1 day after taking the package out of the freezer.

That was among the first group of seeds I tried that way. Since then, I've cut the soak time down to 24 hours, still generally with good results. For seeds that need more than one cycle of temp changes, I freeze a 2nd time after a few days of no germination.

For those that don't need a cold cycle, I just keep the packages on the windowsill, near but not on a heat mat.

I still have a stubborn few, though...
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 25, 2014
1:26 PM

Post #9755565

[quote="warriorswisdomkathy"]Personally have grown both Ceph. alpina and gigantea, from seed I got at T&M back in the 90's. So some of my seed is old, But did get some in a trade a year ago and it didn't grow, so am hoping the older seed will sprout..and even will try some in the garden. I have a friend that has one in his garden, not sure which tho, anyway he gave me a baby from his garden, hope it makes it thru the winter and come spring I get a nice sized baby and some blooms.!

Evelyn...Have all my Asclepias sprouted now, all were started on 1/16, am giving germination dates for me using my method:
Asclepias incarnata Pink, 1/22
syriaca, 1/20
tuberosa, 1/20
variegata, 1/22
As of this morning I have 59 pots that have sprout out of 125, almost half in just 11 days. I check twice a day, and move any sprouted to another tray so I can keep track. Aquilegias should be any day now and will let you know when they do.

If there is any specific info on any of those I've already listed just ask. Will try to figure out how to get a spread sheet here or into my files at Dave's but til then ask and I'll share the info.
Later...Kathy[/quote]

Kathy ~ What is that lovely rose in the vase??? (Beautiful!!!)

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 25, 2014
2:19 PM

Post #9755604

Hahahahaha. Kathy, I see your Asclepias germinated in 4 days too... Too funny.

Forgot to mention when I plant, I use Kathy's method of using vermiculite to cover all but the smallest seeds. For those, and the ones needing light to germinate, I put down a 1/8-1/4" layer of vermiculite and press the seeds into it... Did I get it right, Kathy? Lol...

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 25, 2014
9:35 PM

Post #9755749

Becky, years ago when I used to grow tomatoes, I started them mid March to plant out end of May. A few I planted out earlier and kept a cover handy agains frost. (see photo). I always had ripe tomatoes in mid-July. I only grew early ripening tomatoes, plus Roma tomatoes for canning.

I sowed the seeds in flats using a seeding mix, or 1part peatmoss, 1part perlite, mixed well. I placed the flat on top of my fridge since it is always warm there. Once they sprouted, I moved them to a 6-pack, then to 3" foam coffee mugs (cheap in Walmart)

What most gardeners don't realize is that when the package states ex. 65 days to harvest, it is counted from the time the plant is planted in the garden, not from the time the seeds are sown. Therefore, it doesn't matter how small or large a plant is when planted out.

Roots of tomato plants need to be established before they will begin to grow to bear fruit---like any plants. Also, they will not set bud if the night temperature falls too low. Once planted, I use Miracle-Gro Quick Start a transplanting solution to stimulate root growth.

End of July or early August, I trim back and remove all flowers to direct the plant's energy to ripening the fruit. Flowers this late will not produce ripe fruit in the north.

1] A gallon milk bottle to protect against frost, bottom removed. Opening is towards the east. Thread over a dowel stuck in the ground to prevent it blowing away. Helps acclimate plants. Opening can be cut on 2 sides to form a door if desired.
2] Flats of perennials but would do tomato seeds the same way.

If I had a lot of tomatoes on the plants late in the season and before frost, I pulled the plants and hung them upside down in a protected area to ripen.

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blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 25, 2014
10:41 PM

Post #9755756

[quote="StillPlaysWDirt"]Ok good to know. Now do you do Deno to germ all seeds? A large percentage of mine are good candidates for winter sow, but it would be more convenient to do Deno rather than have flat after flat of seeds that have erratic germination or none at all.

Did the asclepias require special treatment? I heard they can be fussy to germinate. For me, they will be winter sown. [/quote]

Deno can be used on all seeds except those that are like dust. You can use your fridge for seeds that require stratification (cold and moist). Or, you can use room temp for those that don't need chilling.

Asclepias do require stratification and can be hard to sprout. I would put them in the fridge for 2 weeks, Deno method.

For small or dustlike seeds, I sprinkle the seeds in fine peatmoss and kind of mix them in to be in contact with the moist peat. Use a clear plastic container with cover. If need stratification, place in the fridge or outside. If not use room temp or top of fridge.

After sprouting take a clump of the seed/peat and plant in tray or pot. Make a furrow and place the seed/peat mix in the furrow and pat down. You don't want to bury the seedlings.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 26, 2014
9:00 AM

Post #9755947

Evelyn...I just love that rose too. I got it from someone who had brought me one in a 1 gallon years ago, dug from their garden. It's only a spring bloomer and I don't have a name for it. It does spread and I've tried getting it started from a few stems, some sucessful, some not so much... I do know I need to get a patch of it started here where I live, just have to decide where I want it since it will roam and spread a bit, tho not much in the way of a root system. (sorry, I planted it at my daughter's house and is going crazy there.) Oh, ya, it smells good too!

Pam...out of 15 seeds of the Dianthus a. I've got 5 sprouted so far, fingers are crossed they aren't done yet. Yup just a sprinkling of vermiculite, not even sure if I go 1/4" deep except for big seed. Nothing on the Cephalarias yet, (come on, please, please, please!).

Up to 82 pots as of this morning. (of 125), sprouted. I'm starting another tray now to fill in those I'm taking out as sprouts appear. I keep them under a dome for several days yet and when I feel like they are strong enough I then move them to an open air tray. Will try to get some pix this week, haven't taken any this year yet so I guess it's time.. So far NO special treatment on any...yet. Just lights and warmth, oh ya LOVE..lol. Got my first Aquilegia (Winky Blue) up this morning, started 1/14, sprouted 1/26, 12 days. and no frige.. Many more are just about ready, seeds are split and ready to send out that first root.

Snow on the way here for later today and overnight, yeah!!! Ok, off to check out a few things and then to seeding... Later all, have a good day! Kathy

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 26, 2014
10:58 AM

Post #9755993

A. Maggie Mae is 3 times the size of the unused seeds, should get going soon. I'd like to plant her in a pot or cell-packs, but I'm out of room in my little propagator, too many slowpokes.

I made a tent of Saran Wrap temporarily for the Salvia Transylvanica Blue Cloud, Linum Saphyr Blue, and Campanula White and Blue Clips that are emerging now, and ordered another kit from Gardener's Supply. It's a little pricey, but the one from them I have is sturdier than the typical stuff and has held up well. I use it all season, so it's worth it. The new model has a higher dome, 7 1/2," so I'll be able to use it more easily for cuttings later.

I forgot to bring extra standard plastic domes this fall when we closed the house, and the propagator isn't all that big. I've been staggering planting every few days, thinking they would come up in batches and be replaced under the dome by the next set of sprouts. Usually only sprouted seeds or those close to it get planted and are put in there until seedlings appear. This year, some of the room is taken up by some stubborn seeds I thought might do better planted, and I don't want to give up on them yet.

Another thing I forgot to bring is my favorite extra deep 2.5" pots. I have a couple dozen, not nearly enough for the whole season. The propagator comes with a deep root cluster of 15 cells, 2 3/4" x 3 1/2." There is also a tray with smaller cells, 2" x 2 5/8," which should also be very usefull. The best part is, they're attached so won't tip over like the others do if I'm the least bit clumsy, lol.

It's so cold here I have both heat mats going (on thermostats), and I'm wearing a few extra layers myself ;-). And it's not letting up all week. I think we had only 1 or 2 days in the 30's before going back down to teens and single digits. Brrrrrrrr...

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 26, 2014
8:15 PM

Post #9756293

Pam ...if you run out of 3" pots, buy foam coffee mugs. They are great for plants and an anvil will make drainage holes easily. That is all I use now in pots. Easily written with a black marker. Also, I clean them and reuse them. Any markings comes off easily with Wite-Out

Best of all, they are cheaper than pots. I think I paid $1.97 for 100 in Walmart.

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 27, 2014
1:56 AM

Post #9756368

Great idea, Blomma. Thanks!

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 27, 2014
7:04 AM

Post #9756525

I use clear plastic cups, and make drainage holes with a soldering iron. I have perhaps more cat help than I want, and they seem to turn over less easily.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 27, 2014
5:16 PM

Post #9756956

I used the clear plastic to soak seeds in. Tried them as pots but noticed algea (sp?) growing along the sides after a while.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 27, 2014
8:31 PM

Post #9757078

I suspect that algae grows more on clear cups because of the light it lets in. It's never caused any problems, so I don't worry about it.

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

January 28, 2014
8:09 AM

Post #9757341

Has anyone any Angelica seeds to share with me or tell me of a great place to order ??
I don't need allot . ty

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 28, 2014
9:19 AM

Post #9757393

Morning... Count of those sprouted now up to 92... Got a bit of snow and more comming this weekend.

Pam...going to the Super Bowl? Cheer for my team on Sunday!! LOL. Got to try on this a couple of years ago...Hope it's a good omen. Yup, it's a real Superbowl ring, nice huh?!!!!

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StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 28, 2014
9:59 AM

Post #9757437

Pam I will try that with some asclepias if they don't show up for me during winter sow.

Blomma - I planted the tomatoes approx. 12 weeks before my avg last frost date (April 12). I thought it might be too early, but on a different thread I met others in my area who have had success starting them indoors at this time. I hope this will help me in the long run by allowing them to develop and produce without the stress of our brutally hot summer temps. That usually starts in May. Now that they are germinating, I hope to plant them out at 8 weeks and protect them those last few weeks when the threat of frost still lingers..

What exactly is "too low" and would require protection? 40s? Would the milk jug trick above be adequate?

StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 28, 2014
10:08 AM

Post #9757448

Foam cups would probably help the plant to maintain soil temp during fluctuations.. I bet it would come in handy when setting them out to harden off so early, maybe even use them afterwards as a collar inside the milk jugs if frost happened? Hmm my gears are grinding, lol

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 28, 2014
9:31 PM

Post #9757835

Becky, Sorry, I didn't check where you live. Probably not too early to start tomatoes in zone 7. My average last frost is May 30th.

As far as the milk jugs, low temps is near frost and yes, the milk jugs will protect them. I would cut the entrance smaller and on 2 sides for a door that can be closed. Ventilation will come from the top where the dowel goes through. Bury the jug a bit into the soil.

Where I came from---Massachusetts, everyone used metal cans to protect against frost. That made absolutely not sense to me.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 29, 2014
4:33 AM

Post #9757901

I've been using a covered plant stand to harden off my tomatoes early, then plant them under hoops covered with a frost blanket. That has gotten me 2-3 extra weeks early. I've even brought out buckets of hot water to warm the soil before planting.

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StillPlaysWDirt

StillPlaysWDirt
(Becky), Lipan, TX
(Zone 7b)

January 29, 2014
5:09 AM

Post #9757916

Yeah I wouldn't think the metal would do squat for protection either!

Pam just look at those happy babies!! :D

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 29, 2014
8:05 AM

Post #9758044

I use those plant stands as well. I have two, I use them to harden off pretty much everything. I learned the hard way to secure them or they blow over.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 29, 2014
8:24 AM

Post #9758063

Oh yeah, me too! The first time was a disaster! But now I have it against a wall. I drive metal stakes down into the soil and tie the two back legs to the stakes, under the cover. That does it.

Last couple of years I had a great system for ventilation. It faced south with lots of interference from mature trees, but sometimes it got to be really, really hot and fried the babies. I left the cover unzipped and used clothespins to attach frost blanket to let air in and diffuse the direct sun. This year I'm moving it to another, less visible area, facing east this time but still with some big trees, and I'll have to figure it out all over again.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 29, 2014
9:27 AM

Post #9758104

Pam, I got the same as yours. Mine faces East for morning sun. It is leaning agains an old shed that I will get rid of eventually.

There are 156, 3" pots of daylily seedlings enjoying the sun before planting out.

Thumbnail by blomma
Click the image for an enlarged view.

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

January 29, 2014
10:07 AM

Post #9758158

Great! Do you find it overheats? My problem of course is that I'm not there during the week to open and close it.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 29, 2014
6:24 PM

Post #9758447

Mine are on the north side of the house, I bungeed them to the edge of the porch and the fence to prevent them from blowing over. They get sun there, but not enough that they were in danger of overheating till probably May.

I could not use them last year, my pibble pup was still in the chewing phase. This year, she's leaving them alone, thankfully. It's colder this year and she's more focused on getting back inside, too.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

January 29, 2014
9:16 PM

Post #9758548

Pam, Eventhough it is screened from the western sun and only get morning to noon sun, it would heat up quite a bit with the cover on. The cover is only used when needed during the night, or if we get a downpour.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

January 31, 2014
10:06 AM

Post #9759441

Count now is 118 of 154, Put my Cephalarias on the front porch and hoping they germ for me!!!! Not much going on here except more snow. Got 2" overnight and more this afternoon. The mountains have been getting dumped on, one resort got 2ft overnight and expecting more...Yeah snow!!!!

Gotta try and find some Centranthus ruber Alba, will try locally first then mail order if I have to... Anyone seen any? Looked at T&M, also Select Seed. It's gotta be available somewhere.
Been working on plans for where to put what this year and decied I need some for a new section..lol..

Ok off to play with the dirt...lol. Kathy
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

January 31, 2014
3:13 PM

Post #9759642

[quote="warriorswisdomkathy"]Gotta try and find some Centranthus ruber Alba, will try locally first then mail order if I have to... Anyone seen any? Looked at T&M, also Select Seed. It's gotta be available somewhere.
Been working on plans for where to put what this year and decied I need some for a new section..lol.. Kathy[/quote]

Chilterns has it under Kentranthus ruber 'Snowcloud'

LMK if you want to order from them. Maybe we can get some things together and then split their shipping and $$ fees from PayPal. There is a charge to convert currency, but I do not know how much it is. If I order from them, I just pay it thru PayPal. Feel free to contact them if you are interested. They have many seeds not available elsewhere.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

January 31, 2014
6:07 PM

Post #9759738

Chiltern's postage is really quite reasonable.
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 1, 2014
6:56 AM

Post #9759991

Kathy and Celene, This is great! Both of you are here! Here is some of the seeds I was given.
Cupid's Dart dated 2010
Scabiosa house hybrids dated 2010
Shasta daisy Alaska dated 2010
Pyrethrum daisy dated 2010
Gaillardia goblin dated 2010
Oriental Poppy mix dated 2010
Iberia sempervirens dated 2009
Milkweed butterfly flower dated 2009
Pinks Dianthus dated 2013 listed as a annual
Cosmos sensation dated 2013
Polemonium caeruleum blue dated 2012
Centra urea cyanus double mixed dated 2013
Cleome color fountain mix dated 2012
Malvasylvestris zabrina dated 2012
Festuca Glauca blue fescue dated 2013
Gypsophila baby's breath dated 2013
Zinnia giant cactus mix dated 2012
Zinnia lilliput dated 2013
Maravilla mezcla four o'clock mix dated 2009
Sunflower autumn beauty dated 2010 they are pretty they have a orange band in the center and gold on petal ends.
My iPad is going to die. I will be back on my home PC in a minute.
Karen
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 1, 2014
7:52 AM

Post #9760017

OK I'm back! I told you there was a box. Here we go again.

Achilla millefolium Yarrow summer pastels dated 2009
Columbine Mckanna's mixed colors dated 2010
Columbine Harlequin mix dated 2010
Dianthus Sweet William tall double mixed dated 2010
Nemophilia maculata Five spot dated 2010
Cosmos Bright Lights mix dated 2010
Wild flower seeds midwest mix not dated they are from Butler County Master Gardeners OSU extension
Sunflower Mommoth dated 2010
Sunflower Magic Roundabout dated 2010 red centered
Tithonia Rotundifolia Torch dated 2011
Sweet Pea Burpee's galaxy mix dated 2009
Marigold french dwarf double mixed dated 2012
Marigold sparky mixed colors dated 2013
Cottage garden wildflower mix dated 2010 says it's a mix of perennial and annual
Marigold Jaguar dated 2010 they are cute
Marigold sunset giants mix dated 2010
Marigold crackerjack mixed colors dated 2013
Morning Glory Blue Star dated 2010
Portulaca double mix dated 2012
Favorite Garden of Perennials there is no date

These next 2 are Burgess Seed's I have never heard of either of them
Solanum Melanocerasum Garden Huckelberry they are not dated says lot A whatever that means
Husk Tomato Ground Cherry again no date this one doesn't have a lot letter lol
Sorry I'm not a fan of Burgess Seed anything.

The rest of these are open seed packets.
Songbird garden mixture there is no date there is a lot of seeds in the package
Low Maintenance Mix there is no date there is a lot of seed left in the package
Anethum graveolens Dill fernleaf there is a corner full dated 2010
Parsley Italian there is a package in a package here and they are dated 2010 there is a lot of seeds
Sunflower Jude very pale yellow almost white dated 2011 there are about 15 - 20 seeds

I think that is all of them. Several of them have multiple packs. They were found in her basement that was not heated.
I better get a few things done around here and come back in a little bit.
Karen

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 1, 2014
9:22 AM

Post #9760064

Karen, WOW, where did you get all the seeds from?

I used to grow Solanum Melanocerasum Garden Huckelberry along with tomatoes years ago. I bought the seeds from Gurnsey during the 80's.

Garden Huckelberry grows grows into a bushy 3ft plant. The berries are black and round about 1/2" that looks like blueberries. They made delicious jelly and syrup. Uneatable in taste when raw. I made up a lot of huckleberry syrup that my family loved.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 1, 2014
9:30 AM

Post #9760066

Wow, you got some great ones...you'll have a whole new garden... So what info are you looking for? What to start in or direct sow? I have started many of those you've listed...Some are under lights now. And storing them cool is great. Let me know...or head on over to the germination thread... Kathy

Duh...LOL, sorry I was lost for a moment..am on germination thread. Guess I should put my head back on straight..



This message was edited Feb 1, 2014 10:32 AM
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 1, 2014
2:48 PM

Post #9760260

Blooma, A friend of mine's mom passed away and they found these cleaning out her house. She gave me them last week. I feel like a little kid at Christmas! It has brought cheer to my winter dull-drums. lol
Thanks for the info on the Melanocerasum Garden Huckelberry. I might have to try to grow some of it.
Sounds like deer might leave that one alone. They have moved into my yard this winter. I'm praying they move out by spring. We have a big evergreen at the back of our yard and they have been bedding down under it this winter. We have been here since 1999. This is the first year they have ever done this. I'm scared they will feast on my daylily's and hosta's and what ever else they come across.

Kathy, The only thing I was unsure about was the age on the 2009 seeds. I'm not sure what I want to start now and what I want to direct sow. The Marigolds and Zinnia I will probably sow in the spring. I'm not sure I even want to deal the mixture's. I have so many garden beds now it's hard to keep up with them. Every year I seem to add another 1 or 2 beds. If I don't stop my son will have no place left to play. Yes, I have plans for his swing set when he out grows it. He's only 8. Does that make me a bad mother? lol. I want to grow vines all over it someday.
I probably will not mess with the Zebrina seeds either. I have a different type of that already. I regret ever planting it. It seems to get rust in my garden and it makes me nervous that my daylily's will end up with rust. That would be awful. I don't use any chemicals in my garden. I would have to pitch the daylily's and that would be heartbreaking to me.
The only one of the annuals I have never grown is the Nemophilia maculata. I'm excited about trying that one. It looks pretty.
I grow sunflowers every year. I'm not sure I have ever planted them. The birds always take care of that for me. It will be fun to put them where I want them for once.
Sorry I have went on and on. I'll stop rambling and end this.
Karen

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 1, 2014
3:04 PM

Post #9760271

WOW! That is some list! It sounds like you already have a good idea of what you're doing in the garden, what fun to have so many new goodies to play with.

I've been through the seed robin, and picked out a few more things to try. Right now I'm soaking Agastache Golden Jubilee, Asclepias incarnata Rosa and Alcea Creme de Cassis. Once I put them in the Deno packages, the first 2 will get the cold treatment, the Alcea will be at room temp. Digitalis Pam's Choice is cluster sown on vermiculite layered over Starting Mix and under the dome.

That's all for now...
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 2, 2014
7:33 AM

Post #9760702

Something is happening to my Camanula Blue Clips seedlings. They seemed to be coming up nicely in a bed of vermiculite layered over seed starting mix. I moved them into individual cells after a few days, not easily done as the root was miniscule and the seedling threadlike and nearly translucent. I mixed vermiculite into the top layer to make it easier for them, and used a magnifying glass, and still a couple disappeared while I was doing it. The same happened with C White Clips and C pyramidalis, which are now both slowly developing and looking sturdier.

But the Blue Clips are disappearing. Today there are only 2 left out of 6. I can't find any trace of the lost ones, even with the magnifying glass. The 2 left are now about 1/2" tall, still very ethereal, and still had their seeds stuck on their heads, which I managed to tease off without breaking or uprooting them. The cotyledons immediately separated into 2 leaves, and I hope they'll be all right now.

But what went wrong? I have another batch germinating (I hope) and would like to prevent this from happening again. Has anyone grown these babies from seed?

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 2, 2014
9:16 AM

Post #9760769

Gremlins!! LOL. Not sure Pam what's happening. I have a few of my poppies that are disappearing so am glad that I seeded alot..so I'll still have some plants. ( some turned to a gooey mess), but they are in open air now and am hoping that helps...

Karen, most of those can be started outdoors insitu. But am thinking the Polemonium should be started in. I can't think I've ever had one reseed outdoors for me. Still is a great gift of seeds tho! You'll have to remember to take your friend a big bouquet this summer..
So what are some of the goodies in your garden now? And I wouldn't worry about your son, he will grow out of the swingset soon. If not get him a laptop...lol... When my gkids got their electronics they stopped going out in the fresh air. LOL, unless grandma made them go out. And then they still complained they wanted to be inside on their games and such. (ages 11-16).. LOL.

Not much to report this morning, may try to do some repotting of those that are a bit bigger. ie Alceas and some of the Centaureas could be moved up to individual pots. OK, will chat at you all later, everyone have a good day...Think I might actually watch the game today if I remember...Kathy

Pix: Centaurea machrocephala and Veronica spicata Sight Seeing Blue, got lots of seedlings of the yellow C. m.

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy
Click the image for an enlarged view.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 2, 2014
8:44 PM

Post #9761120

Pam,
Maybe the Campanula is the type that resent transplanting.

Kathy,
I also have Centaurea macrocephala. It is one of the easiest plants to sprout and grow.

Thumbnail by blomma   Thumbnail by blomma         
Click an image for an enlarged view.

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 2, 2014
9:01 PM

Post #9761127

Usually if you get them small enough it's okay- and it's only the C Blue Clips disappearing, the C White Clips are starting to put out their true leaves, and they were started a week later than the Blue. Weird. The next batch should start popping up soon, I hope they do better.

Pretty Centaureas, you two.

Has anyone tried Stachys macrantha from seed? I did the soak and freeze a few days ago, now the Deno baggy is on the warm windowsill. I think they take a long time..

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 3, 2014
8:53 AM

Post #9761392

Pam...I've started the S Mcrantha before but can't find my records of germination times or what year started... Deno say dark, but I can't remember. Sorry..lol. Let me know if they don't make it..I could divide one this spring and share. Was the seed from me? All I know is I have several plants in my garden (5 or 6 atleast) and put 3 in my daughter's garden so they gotta be easy.. LOL. Just don't remember giving them special treatment. So put it on the list for an early trade..they bloom in June.

Not much happening today, only 1 more pot sprouted, getting ready for 5 days of snow so off to the grocery store. Is it April yet? Later all...Kathy
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 3, 2014
9:13 AM

Post #9761413

Pfg, Thank You! Yes, I am having fun.
Sounds like you are having fun as well. I love Agastache of any kind. I have Blue Fortune and Black Addler. I love them and so do the bee's and hummingbird's.
Sorry, I'm no help at all with Campanula of any kind. They seem to die at a rapid pace in my garden. Hope the 2 that are left hang in there for you.

Kathy, Thanks! I was going to get a few things started I will make the Polemonium one of them. Would the Deno method work with them?
Oh my, it might take a little while to list the plants in my gardens. I'll try to list them.
I have several spring bulbs.
Narcissus- Tete Tete and, Mount Hood and, Cheerfulness and, Geranium and, Ice King and some plain old yellow one's
Muscari- armeniacum just the common type
Crocus- I have a purple and a white. I have had them so long I don't remember the names of them.
Dutch Iris- They are a mix.
Juno Iris- small and cute

Siberian iris- Caesar's Brother's
Tall Bearded Iris- Best Bet , and Jurassic Park , and Immortality , and Cloud Ballet , and Hemstitched , and Harmonium , and Clarence , and Yaquina Blue, and a peach noid , and a old purple one that reblooms at very strange times. It has had blooms on it at Christmas time here before.
Pallidia Iris- Argentea Variegata
Louisiana Iris- Black Gamecock

Paeonia- Bowl Of Beauty , and Sarah Bernhardt , and a hot pink noid
Sisyrinchium angustiolium -Lucerne Blue Eyed Grass
Dianthus- Neon Star,and Fire Witch , and Raspberry Surprise and a red noid
Ceratostigma plumbaginides
Chrysogonum virginianum Pierre
Nepta fassenil Dropmore Blues ,and Walkers Low
Carex Morrowill Ice Dance
Platycodon grandiflorus Sentimental Blue , and Astra Semi Double lavender
Echiumamoenum Red Feathers Does not like my garden very much.
Veronica Spicata Sunny Border Blue , and Red Fox and Blue Candles and Darwin's Blue
Veronica Longifolia Fascination
Crocosmia Emily McKenzie and Lucifer They come back every year yet have not increased in my garden in 4 years.
Sedum spectabile Autumn Joy , and Purple Emperor , and Brilliant
Sedum reflexum Angelina
Leucanthemum Crazy Daisy , and Becky , and Alaska ,and small early blooming noid
Anemone Japanese anemone pink very pretty in the fall
Artemisia schidtiana Silver Mound
Aster kalimerisincisa Blue Star
Astilbe Bridal Veil and 2 different colors of pink noids
Monarda didyma Jacob Kline , and a Mini pink noid
Rudbeckia fulgida Goldstrum
Dicentra Luxuriant
Ajuga reptans Black Scallop, and Burgundy Glow
Asclepias tuberosa and incarnata
Chrysanthemum noids of many colors
Columbine Nora Barlow , and Purple and pale pink hybrids
Echinacea purpurea Magnus
Echinacea tennesseenis
Echinacea pallidia
Echinacea paradoxa
Heuchera Palace Purple and the green leafed with red flowers
Baptisia australlis
Niponicum Pictum Applecourt , and Ghost
Liatris spicata , and Ligulistylis and Aspera
Echinops bannaticus silvery blue noid
Festuca glauca Elijah Blue
Rose of Sharon the pink one
Rose bush's Peace hybris Tea and a Sunny Knock Out ( it has yet to knock me out) it's 1 year old
Hosta many noids some big some small
Agastache Blue Fortune and Black Adder love them both
Lavendula Munstead
lillium several Asiatic hybrids the bunnies strip them down to stems every year and some how they still come back.
Liriope
Physostegia virginiana Miss manners and pink noid
Allium had to long, forget which one's I have.
Penstemon barbatus Red Riding Hood , and Pink Riding Hood
Penstemon Calicos Calico Beardtongue love it pic 1
Amsonia tabernaemontana
Helianthus maximilliani
Hemerocallis hybrids over 200 different cultivars
Iberis sempervirens
Lamium maculata Purple Dragon
Malvaceaa Malva Mystical Merlin
Oenothera speciosa Rosea If I'd only known about this plant's spreadin, it would have never been planted.
Perovskia atriplicifolia Longin
Rudbeckia was called cut leaf when I bought it I think it's Laciata I think Pic 2 is it
Salvia officinalis Tricolor
Salvia Plumosa and May Night and Snow Hill and Blue Hill
Scabiosa Butterfly Blue
Sidacea malviflora Purple noid
Tradescantia Sweet kate
Vinca minor

That is all I can think of at this time. I'm sure there are more that have been left out. I only keep a spread sheet on my daylily's.
Better get some house work under way.
Have a great day
Karen






Thumbnail by taylordaylily   Thumbnail by taylordaylily         
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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 3, 2014
11:16 AM

Post #9761494

Wow, some list! What is in pic 1? Looks soooo familiar... Gorgeous!

I did Polemium from seed a couple of years ago. I soaked the seed for 2 days, starting with HHW (Hand Hot Water, hot from the tap but bearable), then did the Deno method. Germination started in 7 days. The little roots got stuck in the paper towel, I just tore or cut the paper apart and planted the shoots still stuck in it. I know I got some plants into the garden, they bloomed last spring.

S macrantha, don't remember where I got the seed, definitely a trade. Clothier says it can take several months, keep it cold, Swallowtail says 4-5 weeks warm, do not cover, chill if nothing happens. Another site said 15-30 days. So I did the soak and freeze, and it's been in the baggy at room temp for about a week.

The first Alcea sprouted today, 3 days since the soak. So nice when something is that easy! :-)
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 3, 2014
2:29 PM

Post #9761616

I've been reading 'Garden Flowers from Seed,' by Christopher Lloyd and Graham Rice. Quite interesting, I've always loved Lloyd's books, and in this one they share and compare methods, and don't always agree. But I got a little shock when I read that Linum Saphyr Blue only gets to 9." That's quite petite! Swallowtail, where I got the seeds, says 12-15."

Kathy, I know you have Linum, is it a different one? How tall does it get? Anyone else?
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 3, 2014
2:59 PM

Post #9761636

Pam, pic 1 is Penstemon calycosus (pink one) Red Riding Hood is the red one.
Thanks for the tips on the polemium. I'm going to get them started tonight.
Sounds like a good book your reading. Might have to see if I can download a copy of it.
I had some Linum by my pond a few years ago (before the showy primrose ). Mine grew about 12" tall. I loved it.
Have a Blessed Evening!
Karen

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 3, 2014
9:21 PM

Post #9761870

Karen,
Another one that is weedy with seedlings popping up all over is Malvaceaa Malva Mystical Merlin. I started them 7 years ago, allowed them 2 years of growth when I began to see seedlings all over, including my neighbors yard. It was a job for Roundup. They only pull up easily when young. Here it is years later and I saw 3 growing last summer hiding under my Hibiscus plants.

I also made the mistake of sowing Oenothera speciosa Rosea, then killed it the following spring since it is very invasive under ground.

I wish nurseries would give a warning about plants, but then, they probably wouldn't sell.

Thumbnail by blomma
Click the image for an enlarged view.

meadowyck

meadowyck
Brooksville, FL
(Zone 9a)

February 4, 2014
8:19 AM

Post #9762065

it is such a shame it is so invasive, as I love the flower and the leaf but I went through pulling and pulling and more pulling and finally took the parent plant out.

Jan
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 4, 2014
1:06 PM

Post #9762367

That's funny. I have Mystical Merlin. It got rust last year. I started trying to get rid of it at that point. I have never had rust on my daylilies and hope to keep it that way. It sinks a tap root that is why you have to get them when they are small. Once they are big even Round Up won' kill them here.
Your right if they warned us about them, they would never sell them. I 'm getting kicked off the I-Pad. Be back later.
Karen
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 4, 2014
2:02 PM

Post #9762394

None of the Campanulas seem to be making much progress. I ordered transplant mix from Gardener's Supply, specially formulated for self- watering systems and it was here within a couple of days.

This morning I went to work moving all of them. I mixed vermiculite into the top layer, used a little less peroxide in the mix- 2 oz per quart instead of 3- and added a drop of Superthrive. Some of the roots were almost non-existent, only a few were branched at all.

I don't know if there was a contaminant in the Miracle Grow Seed Starting Mix, or if It was just too soggy. Other plants are doing well- Lupines, Asclepias, Salvia, Linum, Platycodons, to name a few. Maybe because the Campanula seeds are so tiny they need something lighter... I just don't know. I also ordered Maxicrop from Amazon, which should arrive in a few days. That should give everything a boost. If they don't grow after all that, I give up...

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 4, 2014
4:25 PM

Post #9762512

Pam,
try sowing them the same way I did the Delospermas. Fine peatmoss. Rub it between your hands to break the fibers if you can't find it fine. Moisten it, then put it on top of the soil and sprinkle your seed on it and lightly tamp the seeds down. Don't cover tiny seeds.

I wouldn't use vermiculite with tiny seeds since they fall into crevices. It is the same as though you covered them. Tiny seed don't have the energy or stored food to make it through soil--the reason you surface sow. It isn't because they need light (though it is alway stated that way).

Cool temperatures (50 - 60°F) sprout in 5 to 30 days, some longer depending on cultivar.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 4, 2014
8:28 PM

Post #9762645

Thanks, that's a good tip. I'll do that for the Agastache Golden Jubilee- those seeds are miniscule too.

The 2nd batch of Campanulas are actually sprouting already, surface sown on vermiculite over MG seed Starting mix. The problem was that they stopped developing after they were planted. Many of the roots looked stunted, almost burnt- could be from the mix being too soggy... Or something else, I don't know.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 8, 2014
7:05 AM

Post #9764919

So...I ordered some more species petunia seeds, Petunia exserta. Anyone else grown them? I got a plant from Annie's Annuals last year, but some &%$#! stole the whole planter right from the hanger on my porch. I loved the plant, hummers flocked to it, so I'm trying seeds this time.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

February 8, 2014
9:11 AM

Post #9764989

Celene ~ Where did you get those seeds?

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 8, 2014
9:30 AM

Post #9764995

hi, have been mia...ooops.
My polemonium sprouted in 15 days with no special treatment, just lights and warmth. And Please show us more pix of your garden... That's quite a list of beauties that you grow! So what all are you starting this year?

Pam..my Linum is about 18" at maturity. I've got plenty to share if you want the taller ones. Did you ever get your double pink to sprout yet (Platycodon Pam"s )? Mine still aren't doing anything and they should have been up all the other platys are...

Not much going on here, babies are growing and look good. Should try to do some repotting... Had subzero temps for several days and now on the way back up (40*s today) More snow the first of the week and then up to 50*s. Just been hiding out at home, I don't go too far from home when it's that cold. Sure am glad we had snow before those temps arrived. . Ok, later gater...Kathy

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 8, 2014
10:02 AM

Post #9765009

Evelyn: Etsy

Daily sprouts: Plectranthus barbatus, Agonis flexuosa, heuchera mix, and some sedums. My first sprouts of 2014--Plectranthus mix from Chiltern, are looking to sprout true leaves soon.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

February 8, 2014
11:53 AM

Post #9765069

[quote="Celene"]Evelyn: Etsy [/quote]

Which vendor at etsy? I noticed smartseeds shows her listing for "rainbow blend" carrots, and her picture of said blend features a pastel blue carrot. Is this a hoax? I have grown the blend with other vendors and none have this picture or this claim.

I just put in a search for "seeds", and it was on the front page.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 8, 2014
12:59 PM

Post #9765107

If you search petunia exserta, it's the only result, the seller is Hayefield.

You'd think Etsy would have a section for seeds, there's a lot of them on there. But if you search for seeds, you get seed beads and a bunch of unrelated stuff.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

February 8, 2014
2:23 PM

Post #9765153

[quote="evelyn_inthegarden"] Which vendor at etsy? I noticed smartseeds shows her listing for "rainbow blend" carrots, and her picture of said blend features a pastel blue carrot. Is this a hoax? I have grown the blend with other vendors and none have this picture or this claim. [/quote] I notice that smartseeds is the one that has the blue rose seeds...in a mix. That was a made up picture, and you could tell it. This pale blue carrot looks real, but I know it is not!!

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 8, 2014
3:10 PM

Post #9765175

So strange, how fake some plant pictures are, and sooooo obvious. I've been getting a new mix of catalogues, probably got on new lists because of a few orders, and you know immediately how bogus some of them are by the brilliant colors that have never grown on this earth. Blue is a problem to photograph as it really is, we all know that-- but there's a limit. Carrots? Roses? Really!!!

Sooo... Alcea Creme de Cassis popped right up. Got the first sprout of Asclepias incarnata Rose. Still waiting for Prunella, Armeria Bee's Hybrids, Digitalis Pam's Choice and a few other recalcitrants.

Since moving all the Campanulas to a freer draining mix and adding Maxicrop, a seaweed powder, many of them are no longer microscopic, and it only took a couple of days. If I get even a handful of each I'll be happy. Meanwhile I've ordered a sampling of each from Graceful Gardens. Hedging my bets :-)



Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 8, 2014
3:20 PM

Post #9765178

Smartseeds has some Photoshop skills. I'm just sayin'. lol

I grew the P. exserta with some silver prostrate kind of plectranthus, and Anagallis monelli, which have a reddish bit to the yellow center that picked up the red of the petunia flower.

Last year was the year of plant theft...my mother's huge snake plant in a vintage pot, she had that plant since I can remember, and I personally hope that particular thief gets a boil on his butt, a Snowbank brugmansia, and a couple of mixed pots. All at different times.
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

February 8, 2014
4:06 PM

Post #9765214

That person that stole the plants will pay, some day and some how. They all do, even if you don't know it.

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 8, 2014
5:41 PM

Post #9765260

I know, but I'd kinda like to watch. ;)
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 8, 2014
8:25 PM

Post #9765322

Kathy, I have daylily and polemonium and Nora Barlow Columbine( Pic 1 in my garden last year) started already. I just started playing with some Datura seeds.
Pic 2 is my nightmare Oenothera speciosa Rosea
Pic 3 My small amount of shade
Pic 4 garden visitor last year
Pic 5 Agastache Golden Jubilee self seeds here

Celene, Sorry to hear about the plant thefts.
I know it wouldn't have the sentimental value or the vintage pot but, I have 2 different types of snake plant if you want any. I can bring them to the spring RU. I have the dark green and the yellow edged types.

Better get going! It's late for me.
Karen

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blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 8, 2014
10:27 PM

Post #9765351

Karen,
it is really so sad that the Oenothera speciosa Rosea is so weedy for it is real pretty. Yours look so nice. I almost had to act like a mole to get rid of all the underground root after just 1 year. Couldn't use Round Up because of where it was growing.

Nora Barlow is also pretty. I grew it from purchased seed one year but it wasn't long lived. Don't come true from open pollinated seeds either.

Like your pet. Is it a Buddlei it is sitting on? I had 2 seed sown plants I gave to my daughter for I don't have the room. They are so pretty.

You got quite a list of plants above. How did you remember them all? I am familiar with most of them. Now it is mainly iris and daylilies in my garden.

Now to bed.

Lilly

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 9, 2014
3:49 AM

Post #9765393

Karen, thank you--it was the sentimental value, I promised my mother I'd take care of her plants, that's all. You're very sweet.

Daturas? I have several kinds. They kinda sorta reseed, depending on the variety. I suspect that D. Evening Fragrance is hardy for me, it's sited by my back patio, so the roots stay warm. Ballerina varieties never reseed (saved seed is fine), Evening Fragrance does, Belle Blanche did, and BCS does, lightly. I don't grow Belle Blanche because I prefer Evening Fragrance. If you're having trouble germinating, they do better with the Deno method and some GA-3.

ETA: I also have D. Purple People Eater, which is similar to BCS, but the name amuses me.

This message was edited Feb 9, 2014 6:55 AM
Mipii
(Robin) Blissfield, MI
(Zone 6a)

February 9, 2014
8:01 AM

Post #9765603

Celene, so sorry to hear about the thefts...heartbreaking I'm sure. You could set up a motion sensored spy cam, then watch as they get their just deserts. Mmuwah ha haw.

Taylordaylily, your garden is beautiful, thanks for sharing!
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 9, 2014
8:12 AM

Post #9765613

How infuriating to have some thief make off with your beautiful planters! Grrrrr...

TaylorDL, how lucky to have Agastache Golden Jubilee seed for you! I'm just now trying to germinate some. Wish me luck!

Stachys macrantha, Big Betony, is starting to germinate! It's been less than 3 weeks, experts say 4-5 or more, with extra stratification of 4-5 weeks sometimes needed. I soaked for 24 hours, then froze the Deno packet for 24 hours, and today several seeds show tiny radicals. .I'm very excited :-). Now to see if they come up once I plant them, always another thing to worry about ;-)
taylordaylily
Hamilton, OH
(Zone 6a)

February 9, 2014
12:15 PM

Post #9765782

Lily, It does look pretty. But look, there is a Salvia trying to live in there and a painted daisy. I dug it out last year and the year before. It has been worse than bishop's weed to get rid of for me. It does make you feel like a mole. I have dug my pond up 2 years in a row and will have to do it again this year. I have to dig under the liner to get the roots. I have dug down over 12" and it still finds it's way back. This year I have a better plan. I'm going to move everything else and take it on all summer. I will sink a barrier to keep it out of my shade garden at the back of the pond. I hope I will keep it out of my shade garden anyway.

The Nora Barlow is a tender plant for me as well. I have to buy seed every few years and start over. My other Columbine seem hardier than Nora Barlow for some reason. I had 6 of them in 2012 and only 1 in 2013. If I didn't buy seed this year and start it I may not have any this year. It's my favorite Columbine. I wish it was hardier.

You ask how I remember all my plants. lol I didn't! I have 6 Buddleia. I love the smell of them. I love plants and flowers. I will give almost any plant a try at least once. I have a ditch line for anything I don't care for. I hate riding the mower along the ditch line. I'm fixing that one outcast at a time. lol

Celene, Your Welcome! I hate that some thief would come on your porch and steal your plants. I don't miss living in the city. I would go buy a hunting game camera and put it on your porch. It would only take pictures when something triggers it. They take great night picture's. Then you could help them go were they need to go! Of course if you have luck like me they might steal the camera. lol

Lily gave me my Daturas seeds. I have never grown them before. I'm excited to see how I do with them. I'll share the progress of them once there is something to show.
Purple People Eater is a great name.

Mippii, Thank You!

Pam, Good Luck! I don't cut my garden back in the Fall. I only cut back my Paeonia and Iris in the fall. That may be why it reseeds well.

Here are some more pictures. I'm tired of winter and miss my garden really bad.
Picture 1 Cerulean Star daylily with Liatris and many other daylily's.
Picture 2 Another plant I forgot! lol Silphium perfoliayum cup plant
Picture 3 Noid Columbine
Picture 4 Salvia Plumosa spilling out of my raised bed.
Picture 5 Noid daylily going to the ditch line in the spring.

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 11, 2014
9:39 AM

Post #9767133

I don't cut back in the fall either, unless I'm moving things around. And I seem to do a lot of that every spring and fall, always tweaking.

My little Campanulas are looking.much healthier since I moved them into the new mix. I'm still not sure what stunted them, but at least they are past it now. Whew! It will be interesting to see how much of a difference there is between my plants and the ones from Graceful Gardens.

Digitalis Pam's Choice germinated. One more day under the dome to see if more come up.

Alceas now in 4" pots. Some already had little roots coming out of the bottom of the cells.

That's it for now...
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

February 11, 2014
11:46 AM

Post #9767196

[quote="Pfg"]
Digitalis Pam's Choice germinated. One more day under the dome to see if more come up.

That's it for now...[/quote]

^_^

Thanks for sharing...

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 11, 2014
12:41 PM

Post #9767231

Evelyn, thanks for the seeds! I'll direct sow more this summer, but I wanted to get an early start on a few. I love all Digitalis, but I think this is my favorite.

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

February 11, 2014
2:46 PM

Post #9767303

Pam did you give them Digitalis a cold spell in the frig or freezer
CLScott
Calgary
Canada

February 11, 2014
2:49 PM

Post #9767305

I am glad to see that someone else is trying the hummingbird petunia:
petunia exserta. I have a packet and will start them in a few weeks.
I will move them to a large container in a "hummingbird strip" of flower bed.
Caroline

RickCorey_WA

RickCorey_WA
Everett, WA
(Zone 8a)

February 11, 2014
3:17 PM

Post #9767313

Maybe you could seed some of your outdoor planters with fire ant eggs next year.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 11, 2014
5:55 PM

Post #9767445

CLScott,
Here is some info for you on P. exserta.

First described in 1987, only fourteen plants were found in the wild during an expedition in 2007.

In the wild, the plant is found growing only in shaded cracks on sandstone towers. It is the only Petunia species that is naturally pollinated by hummingbirds, and the only red flowered Petunia species.

In addition to its very limited range, P. exserta is also threatened because it so easily hybridizes with other Petunia species, thus producing offspring that are hybrids rather than the species. The plant is increasingly being sold in horticulture, so the threat to its survival is only in its native habitat.

If the seeds are as tiny as the garden petunia, start them earlier. I started many types of garden petunias when I owned and operated a commercial greenhouse in Nebraska during the late 70's and 80's. I sowed them in Feb for they take so long to grow to become flowering size large enough to sell.




warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 11, 2014
6:09 PM

Post #9767461

Susie..I didn't give mine any cool treatment, germinated in 6 and 7 days. So far have started D. Pam's Split, D. Dalmation Purple, and D. Candy Mt Peach. Guess I need to start some of the others that I got planted last season so they end up perennializing Thinking of that I should also check to see what other Biennials I got planted last year and do the same...

So susie, which one are you starting this year? Last year I started 9 different varieties, oops that should be 8 as one never did anything. Hoping I have a good show this spring and come fall I'll have plenty of seed to share!!!

Warm weather this week, a few40*s and mostly 50*s. Yeah, maybe if all the snow mellts off and it's not windy I may go throw some seed in the garden...poppies, alcea and such. Some places in the mountains have received 5feet of snow in this past week...Yikes!!! So far this winter we've had pretty good snow cover, hope it keeps doing such.. Later, Kathy

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 11, 2014
6:48 PM

Post #9767500

Karen,
Love that Cerulean Star daylily.

Every year someone comes out with a different name for the Daturas. Often it is from the interbreeding and open pollination that a color will be a bit different producing another name. I have grown 4 different cultivars but only 3 are worth growing. Datura inoxia is the same as Evening Fragrance Datura (moonflower)

When I visited my son one year there were some new neighbors that grew Daturas right along the sidewalk. It was the Datura inoxia growing and blooming. I had no idea what they were. Smelled heavenly in the evening. Never seen them before. During the early 90's they were not well known. I waited and snitched some of the seed pods, actually had to pick seeds off the ground also since the pods had cracked open. It is the hardiest of the cultivars. Survived over the winter growing next to my son's house made of stone in zone 4

A few years later Parks Seeds came out with yellow, and white and purple flowered Daturas. They named them 'Yellow Ballarina, and Purple Ballarina with double flowers. I have both.

I saved seeds from the yellow one, the second generation had single and double flowers on the same plant. It is not as scented as the white one.

Strangely the yellow and purple Daturas have maroon stems. The white one have green stems.
Below is some information on the genus:

http://www.ehow.com/list_6707627_types-datura.html

This message was edited Feb 11, 2014 7:50 PM

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CLScott
Calgary
Canada

February 12, 2014
5:06 AM

Post #9767656

Thanks for info on petunia exserta!
Caroline

deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

February 12, 2014
6:45 AM

Post #9767712

Kathy I Have Excelsior Mix ,pams choice purpurea, cameLot , Going to put them in my new Hand made By me HOT HOUSE :)
Below I Know it looks like a Pinball machine but it is my new Hot house , /Kitchen Counter
Love it :) Lots of Storage under & I can see what is growing on top I still have a few finish touches yet but nothing big that has to be done right now :)
so off to get started . BBL

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warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 12, 2014
7:44 AM

Post #9767771

blomma...do you still have any seed of the yellow variety? Curious...did you ever overwinter any of them indoors to take out the following season? I've grown D. metaloides but want the taller ones for the patio... I have seed for the purple double, think I'll grow them this year, says they can get to 5 foot. Thought they were only about 2-3ft. And have you noticed any fragrance differences in the colors or varieties? It seemed to me that the Brugs have a nicer fragrance than the D. metaloides. Comments?

YEAH...susie's got a new toy!!!!!!!! LOL. Now you can have all sorts of fun! What will you do when they sprout and grow on a bit? Will you bring them out from under the glass/plastic top? Let me know if there are any other colors of the foxglove that you might want... Pam's Split is new so not sure I have much, mine will bloom this season. I planted them with Alcea Creme de Cassis, hope it's a nice pairing...I planted about 25 feet of the 2 together... I want June...lol.

blomma

blomma
Casper, WY
(Zone 4a)

February 12, 2014
12:31 PM

Post #9767896

Kathy,
Unfortunately my stock is very low on the yellow Datura. I plan on growing it this summer to build up my stock on seeds. To get pure seeds it will be the only one I will grow. Yellow Ballarina grows to 2-3 ft. in WY

Yes, there is a difference in fragrance. The white D. inoxia is the most frangrant of them all. It also sets seeds the best .

You can overwinter them in a large pot stored in above freezing temp so that it goes dormant. It is hardier that the others. The 3 that I have are perennials grown as annuals in cold climates.

BTW, this can also be done with 4-oclocks. I have done it since they are also a perennial in warm climates.

OR...
...One year I overwintered it in my fridge to bloom the following summer.

1] Removed all the soil and trimmed the stem.
2] In plastic bag with damp peatmoss spread around the roots.
3] Closed the bag where the stem met the roots.
4] Ready for the fridge.

It bloomed earlier. I did all the colors. They were placed on the lowest shelf in the fridge.

They knew when it was spring. Leaf buds began sprouting in the fridge. I took them out and potted them until it was warm enough to plant outdoors in May.

This message was edited Feb 12, 2014 1:35 PM

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deejay9

deejay9
(susie) Hastings, MI
(Zone 5a)

February 12, 2014
12:37 PM

Post #9767898

PRETTY HARD TO TYPE LEFT HANDED I HAVE A ROOSTER SITTING ON MY RIGHT HAND
☺sorry fo the caps also.
well kathy as for them growing ther is about 8" for them to grow so hope i will have some time before i have to move them . & it is Real Glass .well off to play some more ya all have a great day .

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 12, 2014
2:15 PM

Post #9767959

Very cool, Susie, a nice new toy!

We were supposed to leave tomorrow for Florida, but because of the weather in Atlanta and the predicted storm here, our flight has been canceled. Meanwhile, in preparation for being away for 10 days, I starting potting up a few of the bigger seedlings and had to expand my shelves. Some of the Lupine roots were already coming out of the bottom of their pots and Alceas grow so fast they'd be bursting out of theirs before we get back. The new batch of Campanulas are doing well, time to pot them up, too.

Every time I travel at this time of year, I feel like I'm abandoning my babies... And every time I come back, they are just fine, maybe with one or two exceptions. Bottom watering with capillary action works, the trays are good for at least 2 weeks if I top them up before I go. The lights are on a timer, whatever's left in the propagators is a long shot at this point, maybe something will come up while I'm gone and surprise me. So nothing to worry about. But I do, at least until I get where I'm going.

But now we're not going anywhere at least until Froday, maybe longer- grrrrr...

What a winter!
evelyn_inthegarden
Sierra Foothills, CA
(Zone 8a)

February 12, 2014
5:10 PM

Post #9768089

[quote="Pfg"]OK, I finally got started, in a very small way.

Last year one of my Platycodon Perlmutterschale seedlings had a double bloom. Apparently it's unusual, and it's gorgeous. I nurtured that plant, but somehow it still had a rough summer, culminating in a few seeds that may or may not have made it to maturity by the end of the summer.

So tonight I put some seeds to soak in hand hot water. Tomorrow I'll put them in a folded, damp paper towel in a baggy-- the Deno Method-- and keep my fingers crossed. Last year P Permutterschale took 16 days to germinate, other Platys were sprouting in as little as 4 days. I have my fingers crossed.[/quote]

Pam ~ I am starting mine now...better late than never. Did you refrigerate, or put them outside? Or did you put them at room temperature or on a heat mat?

They are so lovely. How are yours doing now?

Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 12, 2014
6:52 PM

Post #9768161

I don't chill the Platys, and I do use a heat mat. I never had any luck starting them in pots, but soaking them first and then using the Deno method has been very successful.

It doesn't seem that late to me, but I think your spring comes before mine.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 13, 2014
8:04 AM

Post #9768413

blomma...Wow, I didn't know you would put them up that way. I thought they were put in pots for the winter, like a house plant so they could continue growing. When you grow one on would you consider trading some seed? What can I bribe you with? LOL.

Pam...should I still hold out hope for the dbl pink platty to germinate? I'm going to have platties coming out my ears this year. Started those you saved for me and then those that I got from Elsa in So. Africa. Will be excited to see all of them bloom. 13 pots of platties,(oops 2 pots of the same white dbl), 7 varieties are from Elsa. No names but will compare when they start to bloom to figure out which is which, Susie...most of mine sprouted in about 4 days, just warmth and light.

So is susie having fun yet with seeds?

Evelyn...thanks for the warm winds. It's warmed up here so nicely after all that bitter cold air from Canada. Might get to 60* this week, guess we should enjoy it as we have lots of winter yet to come and bunches of snow yet too!!! So how are your seedlings doing?

blomma are all your pots outside or do you start anything inside during the winter? Wanna see all the new babies from last year bloom this season... Remember we need pix when they do!!!

And how is everyone else doing with their seed starting????

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 13, 2014
8:21 AM

Post #9768429

I overwinter datura (which I personally like better than all brugs except a couple) in my cold room, it used to be a coal storage room, it's in the high 40's most of the winter. Keeps the tender dormants dormant :)

Seed starting: I have plectranthus with true leaves, wintersowed a bunch of extra stuff from trades and late-ish seed orders, and went ahead and started my petunias--exserta, integrifolia and Sparklers now, on the advice of Blomma ;)

Found a new must-have calendula--Strawberry Blonde. It's really more peachy, but the photos look lovely, I hope the blooms resemble the photos, that is always dicey. I love seed catalog photos, when you grow the plant out they look NOTHING like the picture. The photo files here have helped me abundantly,

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 13, 2014
8:33 AM

Post #9768439

Yup no photo shopping here...lol.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 13, 2014
12:49 PM

Post #9768628

Kathy, I think those double pink Platy seeds are a bust. :(((

I spent the morning potting up more little ones, I'm trying to get everything into the new transplant mix made for self-watering systems. The MG mix gets soggy, even though I've added a fair amount of vermiculite. Some things don't seem to mind... Salvia transylvanica Blue Cloud had gorgeous roots, yippee! Can't say the same for some of the others. I ended up with 12 of the single pink Platys, some had decent root systems, some not. The P Astra Blues were better in general, but still a few were really skimpy. One lonely Dianthus Siberian Blue looked great, the other two ended at the soil line. Grrrr...

I'm beginning to think I know what the problem is. Somewhere I read that someone was adding cinnamon right into the planting mix, so I decided to try it. I think one batch got too much when the bottle slipped in my hand. I won't do that again. If I need it'll just sprinkle it on top. I haven't seen any gnats yet, so at least it worked for that.

The Linums are very happy, nice roots, but they're growing straight up. So this morning I gave them a haircut. Maybe by the time we get home - if we ever get out of here!- they'll be nice and bushy. :-)

Looks like we're stuck here until Saturday, which is a real bummer. Not so much cutting the vacation short, but we were supposed to visit my family for the weekend at their Florida house, then go to a hotel in another area with friends. My family can only stay for the weekend, so now I get 2 days instead of 4 with them. They are driving down from NJ, left last night and drove all night, taking turns sleeping.

But it's nice and warm here in the apartment, can't complain that much!

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warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 14, 2014
6:59 AM

Post #9768973

Was wondering if they had done anything , darn! LOL...you'll have to see what happens this year. Hopefully they'll still be a double and can recollect more seed.

Saw on the news everyone back east getting scads of snow. We've had our share and the weather is nice this week, 55* today but the mountains are getting another 9-12"... There are several places in the mountains that have had 60+" in just the past 3 weeks...Usually our big snow months are March and April.
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 14, 2014
8:50 AM

Post #9769039

The last few winters haven't gotten below 15 degrees. This year has been a true zone 5 winter, judging by comments on the weather thread in the Northeast Forum--several nights below zero in the closest town to us. I have a mini- maxi thermometer at the house, I'll know when we get there how cold it's gotten. I've been zone-pushing and planting late in the season and getting away with it up to now. This year will weed out the borderline hardies for sure!

Celene

Celene
Columbus, OH

February 14, 2014
5:18 PM

Post #9769389

Plant World has a lot of cool stuff. I am working on winning a Biggest Loser competition at work and the $200 prize so I can blow it at Plant Delights.

warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy
Kiowa, CO
(Zone 5b)

February 21, 2014
8:50 AM

Post #9773683

Started another batch of seeds on 2/16, many of which have already sprouted. Heliopsis scabra; Rudbeckia fulgida Irish Eyes(g); Alcea Creme de Cassis (another batch) (g); Alcea single dk red (g), Delphinium Galahad (anothr batch); Nicotiana sylvestris, sandersae purple (Niki) already up in 4 days), sandersae Heaven Scent(g); Ammi majus Rubra(g); Hibiscus mutabilis Confederate Rose, coccineas Texas Star (g); Ecalcarata semiaquilegia ( mini columbine, redoing for fresh seed); Salvia turkestanika pink (g); Ammi visagna Green Queen Anne's Lace(g); Papaver orientalis Dbl Orange Frilled; Physostegia viginianna Alba(g) and Rosea(g); Campanula latifolia dk purple (am trying these seed again)(g); Anthemis tinctoria Alba(g), and carpatica Carpathian Snow (both germinated)g); Chrysanthem serotinum Giant Oxeye Daisy; Aquilegia flatabela nana Alba; Monarda hybrida Bergamo; Kitabela vitiflora (g); Laurentia axillaris Blue Star(g); Salvia uglinosa (g); Dianthus grationopolitanus Bath Pinks or Cheddar pinks (g)



This message was edited Feb 27, 2014 8:53 AM
Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 24, 2014
8:11 AM

Post #9775655

Everything looks good after being left alone for 8 days. No losses, some decent progress, but no new sprouts anywhere.

The Campanulas responded to the new mix from Gardener's Supply and the added Maxicrop, and are no longer microscopic. The second batch is smaller, of course, but visible. Everything else looks good too-- the Lupines I didn't pot up before I left have roots trailing out of the pots, so that's a chore for today.

I had forgotten, I do have one seedling of the pink Asclepias incarnata, it sprouted quite early. The rest of the seeds in their Deno baggy have done nothing. Stachys macrantha never came up, either. While I was away I ordered germinating mix from Gardener's supply. I'll try that next on the stubborn ones, and keep the leftover MG for easy stuff, like tomatoes and cosmos and other basic annuals.

I also got a great assortment of interesting Nicotianas from Daggawalla on the west coast. I'm excited about trying them- a peach one , a super-tall red that hummers love, another version of Langsdorfii, and a freebie which is also a magnet for hummers. Another chore for today.

It's great to be back!

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Pfg
(Pam) Warren, CT
(Zone 5b)

February 25, 2014
6:51 AM

Post #9776360

I started a new thread, this was getting really long.

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1351480/

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