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I apologize in advance for the length of this question. I am a new urban vegetable gardener. First timer! I have spinach, lettuce, kale, and peas; all doing fine. I transplanted my tomato seedlings 2 weeks ago (after 7 weeks) and it seems that they, for the most part, aren't doing too well.
I only "hardened them off" for three days. Raised beds, good pH. I transplanted 2 each of 6 different varieties of heirloom tomatoes. I'm pretty sure that some of them have suffered from sun-scald. There is white on some of the leaves, so my best guess is sun-scald. I will try to add a couple of pictures if I'm allowed.
I am in zone 6 (eastern KY) and yes, I transplanted them before the "last frost date," but I am in tune with the daily weather and we are experiencing an early spring, of sorts. No frost (not even close) since I transplanted them. I have pinched off some of the "sun-scalded" leaves, thinking it was the right thing to do.
So, my two-part question is - Am I right in thinking it is sun-scald. and pinching off the damaged leaves? And, can the tomato plants still survive and produce a nice harvest?
Thank you very much!
Looks like sun scald to me, too. I've experienced that before, but I didn't pull the leaves off. In my experience, this happened when I wet the leaves and then the sun hit the droplets. Probably used them like magnifying glass on the leaves.
My crop didn't suffer any for having a few sun-scalded leaves.
Just be prepared to protect your seedlings in case of an off-cycle frost in the coming weeks before your "last frost date," LOL!
And, be advised that too much wind can be damaging to young seedlings, so do some research on some type of hoop. I've posted instructions for a simple bent PVC pipe hoop that can be covered with several different types of material protection, depending on your season.
I think it goes much deeper then mention above, it looks like your plants shutdown I have a question for you are your tomato plants in pot's, if they are your PH just might be to high tomato plant's shutdown when your PH is to high no matter how much you fertilizer it wont do you any good the, only thing i can think of is to get some potassium sulfate 0-0-50-17 that just might kick start them back to health, but I don't know if your an organic Gardner but potassium sulfate is 50 % potassium and 17 % sulfur witch you can add to the watering can, tomato plants love a PH 5 to 7 they are an acid loving plants.
A PH of 7 is neutral, not acidic. Ive gardened 20 yrs in limestone using well water so my conditions are alkaline but I've never had problem growing tomatoes or any other veggies. I know blueberries are acid loving plants but I've never heard of tomatoes referred to as such.
Be careful amending anything in a container, a little goes a long way. You can always test your soil ph.
Not sure what I'm supposed to read on that link but thanks...I'm not having any issues growing my 75 tomato plants and I didn't start the thread. All I know is that a ph of 7 is neutral, right in between 0 and 14. I prefer to go with what I know works from experience and if they where true acid loving plants people wouldn't be adding lime when they plant them.
Feel free to check out the tomato forum, there are many members with a lot more education and experience then myself and while many plants require acidic conditions to grow I've never known tomatoes to be one of them. It's also been my experience that potting soils are pretty balanced in PH and nutrients. If tomato plants needed a h of below 7 to grow I don't know why my plants are doing fine, and always have.
My tomatoes start to lose the bottom leaves every year about the time they put on tomatoes at that level. I always just think the plant begins to kill of the leaves they don't need any more. The foliage above always look look until the fruit up higher begins to grow.
Lime is for calcium. Ky and Tn have soil that is chert, you have to lime for the plant to uptake nutrients, but this is a raised bed- what was added should have been garden soil and not a problem to the tomato. Sometimes new beds are too hot, or unsettled, or could have moles or such if not blocked from them. If the spinach is doing good, it stands to reason the maters would struggle, try them in a different place away from cabbages and spinaches. Basils, borage, and monarda grows well where maters grow...