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Fruits and Nuts: spraying trees

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notmartha
Bay City, MI
(Zone 6a)

April 14, 2003
12:35 PM

Post #510681

You should spray all the fruit trees before the buds open. coat them with Special Oils while they are dormant and then about every 7-10 days with fungicides.
I know my dh mixes captain and ???

Eoil is a good one!

i will check on what he mixes together-have to stop those peach borers before they can get started!

Terry

Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)


April 14, 2003
1:12 PM

Post #510694

We were given similar advice when I took my Master Gardener classes last year. There is a time period when the bees are pollinating and even the hard-core spraying fans should stop spraying ;o)

Quite honestly, we don't spray. We aren't commercial fruit growers, dependent on a big crop for our livelihood, so a bad year is disappointing, but not devastating.

I'd be curious to know how other DG members feel about spraying. And are there organic alternatives to spraying? (That question got a blank stare from our MG instructor, who was obviously more prepared to talk about the pros and cons of the various brands, rather than the pros and cons of spraying.)
notmartha
Bay City, MI
(Zone 6a)

April 14, 2003
1:27 PM

Post #510700

you never spray when anything is in blossom! thats bee time!!!
you must wait till the blossoms have dropped.
The first spray is the MAJOR spray-the oil coats and protects!
We too have a fruit farm and I would never go without spraying~

Im FOR spraying-makes a world of difference in fruit quality!
Dennis_taylor
rural, WY
(Zone 3a)

April 14, 2003
3:05 PM

Post #510758

I try to spray early every spring. while buds are still fully dormant with a lime sulpher. I hear the certified organic growers can use this one. I wouldn't eat fruit from my trees sprayed with other pesticides, you may as well go to the grocery.
broots
Cochrane, ON
(Zone 2b)

April 14, 2003
5:21 PM

Post #510830

I hope someone can set me straight on this. I have an apple tree, large apple crab & now a cherry tree. I have been wanting to use dormant oil for the last couple of years but have conflicting info from two sources.

1) spray before buds begin to break open, on a sunny day & when temp's will be above freezing for 3-5 days.

2) Art Drysdale (garden guy in Canada) has stated revised recommendations are to hold off til there are at least 1/4" of new green (or red)growth in trees' buds & there is no rain in the forecast for several days, little wind & temp is above freezing.

Also, as I live in zone 2b, we can have frost any given night up til around the first or second week of June. Is it ok to spray early on a nice sunny day as long as the spray dries before nightfall & rain is not anticipated?

Thanks for your any help you can give me.
Dennis_taylor
rural, WY
(Zone 3a)

April 14, 2003
6:57 PM

Post #510890

Broots, I would have to say do what suits you. I was taught that buds will burn if sprayed onced they begin to crack. People have been doing this for a long time with good success. But recently I read that you can also spray green buds too. I sprayed a few of my trees late this year and so far no burning/deformities. The buds were 'just' turning green. Make sure you measure properly as an OD will surely burn.
You are right about not spraying in the cold, or if rain is predicted.
broots
Cochrane, ON
(Zone 2b)

April 14, 2003
11:46 PM

Post #511051

Dennis thanks so much for the info especially the heads up on the accurate measuring. Going to give it a try.
scooterbug
Tellico Plains, TN
(Zone 7b)

July 20, 2003
12:42 AM

Post #587795

notmartha,
I believe that the dormant oil spray coats & suffocates the wee-buggers...For this reason use it while the trees are dormant,early spring before the buds begin to swell and late fall when dormant but not when it is freezing.Other than that do not use oil.
DISCLAIMER::: I am by no means an expert on this subject except for having problems the last couple years...SeeYA...SB >^,,^<
Post script::: you can mix the oil w/ insecticide.Check with your nurseryman as to which one...TA-TA

This message was edited Saturday, Jul 19th 8:48 PM
rutholive
Tonasket, WA
(Zone 5a)

July 28, 2003
2:08 AM

Post #595281

You can also mix oil with Lime & Sulfur, which is what i do. If you use light oil you can spray later in the season than with a heavy duty regular spray oil. Actually I am trying to grow organically and don't like to spray if not absolutly necessary. i will have to spry this fall as soon as the leaves fall as i see corneaum (don't know how to spell it) blight has shown up on my Rainier cherry tree. Donna
TuttiFrutti
Spokane Valley, WA
(Zone 5b)

August 7, 2004
1:50 AM

Post #989858

I found this thread while trying to figure out how to prevent the worms from getting our fruit trees so badly next year, and then found a recipe online for Dormant Oil Spray that is merely made of mineral oil and oil-based soap:

http://www.gardenguides.com/content/tips.htm

Does anyone make their own? And what do they mean by oil-based soap? Newbie here. :)

Donna/TuttiFrutti
nadabigfarm
Gardena, CA

August 21, 2004
6:51 AM

Post #1012063

TuttiFruitti,
Wow this is an old thread but thought I would add my 2 cents in. I have a lot of citrus trees and have found a real good retardant for aphids and other sucking pests. I soak a bunch of old cigarette butts in a 5 gal. bucket of water for a week or two. Sounds and smells disgusting, I know, but then I run the solution through a sprayer on the trees trying to get the underside of the leaves. I have had great success with that. Also Dawn dishwashing soap, diluted, works well to sufficate many others without damaging the plant. For fungus and all around health, I occasionally dust with sulfer powder. An occasional bird feeder helps with the bigger bugs.
TuttiFrutti
Spokane Valley, WA
(Zone 5b)

August 22, 2004
3:42 AM

Post #1013263

I would imagine that the nicotine residue would cause bugs to get a bit agitated, much like caffeine does. *chuckle* Have only tried a weak dishwashing liquid spray on flowers and such, but found it very effective for whatever was trying to chew them up. Thank you for posting your technique, nadabigfarm. :)

Our apple, peach, and apricot trees are quite old and were left untended for a long time before we moved in here (thus all the worms). We have been picking up all the dropped fruit and did a major harvest of the apricots after which we trimmed our side of the tree, and did a major pickup of all of last year's leftovers early in the spring... so, we're hoping that will also help reduce the worm population next year.
nadabigfarm
Gardena, CA

August 22, 2004
7:05 AM

Post #1013384

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. The fruit that you grow is quite different than what I can grow in my zone 10. Therefore, I guess I have different pest problems. I also have a few chickens that are great for bug control but that may or may not be practical for you. I also plant a few garlic and onions around my roses to deter many pests too. Make sure you clean up the debris from under the tree because that is a natural winter nesting site for hibernating bugs and many forms of fungi. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
...nada
TuttiFrutti
Spokane Valley, WA
(Zone 5b)

August 22, 2004
8:50 PM

Post #1014002

Oh, but your words are very helpful, nada! I might not be able to use all the techniques, but that doesn't mean someone else couldn't. And I would imagine certain techniques are effective regardless of the zone! :)

Donna

billyporter

billyporter
Nichols, IA
(Zone 5a)

March 28, 2009
9:10 PM

Post #6332550

Bump, we have 2 peach trees we grew from seed, so we don't know what they are. They do get brown rot, so we're trying to find the best spray. I hate to spray, but if we don't we'll lose all the peaches. We had very few worms last year, after we finally had a crop that didn't freeze, but we'll spray for them too when it's time.

We read to not spray fungicides and pesticides together. One, it's a waste of money, and two, it will kill the bees since the fungicides go on first.

Anyway, since companies come and go, is there anything new on the market for fungicides? We checked last Thursday and no one is stocking any yet.
LTilton
Glen Ellyn, IL
(Zone 5b)

March 28, 2009
10:32 PM

Post #6332832

Typically, chemicals are being taken off the market faster than new ones are arriving.

The guy at my garden store said "they" are thinking about prohibiting lime sulphur, and they only had a single container of it, that was leaking.
scottfsmith
Baltimore, MD

March 29, 2009
12:16 AM

Post #6333212

The most effective spray for brown rot for backyard growers is Monterey Fungi-Fighter. It is available online but I have not seen it in my local nurseries. For organic growing you can use copper through after petal fall and sulphur after that.

Scott

LTilton
Glen Ellyn, IL
(Zone 5b)

March 29, 2009
12:32 AM

Post #6333268

That seems to be the same active ingredient as Bonide's Infuse.

billyporter

billyporter
Nichols, IA
(Zone 5a)

March 29, 2009
1:52 PM

Post #6334952

I think Bonide may be available here and I do have sulfer on my list. It seems to be the least evil. I think we'll try that. I was just reading that lawn clipping compost is good for brown rot too.

I hate chemicals.

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