Since we have no natural rocks, and buying large rocks is very expensive, we decided to make our own We started with sand, wet and roughly shaped. We then covered the sand with dry sandmix readymix cement, about an inch thick. Sprinkled with fine mist until wet. After 2 days, wet and add 1 iinch of sandmix, wet, another inch let harden for a couple of days. Obtain concrete dye, we used mixture of Terra Cotta and Buff with a little black to darken. Mix this wet and pour it on with a shovel. Avoid smoothing as this will show later. When it is firm to the touch, use black paint and a large brush and sling splatters onto the mix. Bumps and so forth help the look.
These pictures are our first try in 1998.
This is really clever, trois! We are never far away from rocks here in my town... we're surrounded by mountains, but this looks like a great alternative. I have a neighbor who makes troughs, which I think is similar.
I think you've opened up a whole new way to 'rock garden', or rather 'faux rock garden'! As I said, we have all the wonderful rocks you could ever hope for, but your poured rocks give you the option of making cracks and dips where ever you need them. I'm not sure how these fellows would hold up in all our rain.
How about that! At 138 inches of rain per year, you've got us beat! Our annual rainfall is around 60 inches, and I don't know if that includes snowfall. I just did a bit of surfing and found a site that listed the Gray County average rainfall to be about 20.14 inches, so you must have been flooding out last year!
With our wet conditions, the rocks tend to cover with moss and lychin, so it's good to know these poured rocks will take that sort of thing.
I LOVE YOUR ROCKS! We don't have large rocks here. Believe it or not, there is a business here that just sells large, imported, boulder type rocks. My daughter bought one for her front yard garden and I almost fainted at the price! Your's are so natural looking, even without the plants.
Thanks. We forget that they are not real rocks. We dont always try to make natural looking rocks. Sometimes just somthing that is a good contrast for the plants. This picture is of a 60 foot long border behind out Water Iris. It keeps down weeds and makes it easier to get close to the plants.
First you build a basic shape with sand.
Wet the sand.
Put a 1 inch layer of dry sandmix on the wet sand, spray mist the sandmix. This will harden and preserve your basic shape.
When it is firm (no walking yet) next day or so, wet the surface, then add another inch of sandmix, spray the sandmix until wet. When this hardens in a day or so, you should now have 3 inches of concrete. Wait another day and you should be able to walk on the surface.
Mix up a bag of sandmix with water, somewhat thinner (It should run a bit when applied) than normal cement, add the colors you want, remembering it will be lighter when dry. Using a shovel, put this mixture onto the hardened surface that you have wet first. Do not smooth as this will show big time. When this starts to harden, sling black paint off a large brush until you get the desired look, then do a little more. After it dries, more paint can be splattered if needed. The paint splatters should have a random look. Fill around the edges with pea gravel.
Hope this helps. Trois
We decided on our approach in order to be able to walk freely on them, just like real rocks, and we build them where we expect them to stay. We use no reinforceing materials so it can be broken up if needed.
Beyond impressive! Would you please take a moment to see if you are in a position to lend me any tips over at this thread. There is a photo of my dream boulder over there. I would be most appreciative. Thanks so much, Lauren
I hate to say it but I sort of lust for the birdbath boulder in the photo at that link. We have a very large sandbox out back for the boys which I believe might be ideal as a staging ground to create a boulder for me. Exactly how heavy is this once completed? I am not exactly skilled in anything such as this. Matter of fact I have never even attempted anything such as this. Do you think it is possible I could actually get a professional looking result such as what you have achieved? If not, please speak right up and let me know as I realize I am not exactly the handiest or the craftiest person out there.
I used dye from Home Depot. They are as heavy as rocks for practical purposes It should be built where it will stay.
I checked out the mold method and decided it was too complicated. Look at the one I made to hold a Hyacnth. On that one I started with a mound of sand, mixed it a little soupy in a wheelbarrow using a hoe, then shoveled it on. It will run down the sides a bit using this method. When it is as high as you want it, add more around the edges leaving a hollow in the center. Just remember to never smooth the mix as that will show. You can skip the dye altogether if you wish to just splatter several different colors of paint on the surface. Ask for a long lasting concrete dye or paint and dip the brush in the paint, then sling it on the rock. Don't over do the paint, then add a second color the same way. Continue until it looks like you want. This will make a mess around the base that can be covered with gravel or sand. Ask if I can help.
Building it where it will stay is probably a real good idea. My poor husband would not have been happy with my first "practice run" in the middle of the sandbox for the kids. I wasn't thinking how heavy it would be when complete. I was sort of thinking it would lift off of the sand form underneath and be able to be moved. The synthetic birdbath boulder I posted a photo of was very light weight and could be moved all over the place at will. I do have a wheel barrel and I do have a hoe! This is a start although this project will have to wait until next spring.
Say trois, I looked at all of your photos of what you have done by your home and I pulled up this thread when a few fellow gardeners came over here to show them AND all of us were sort of hovering around my computer monitor salivating. We all have woodland settings and this is the first time we have seen anything that looks as if it belongs. We all have properties with potential but not one of us has anything as nice as what you created.
It sounds like all you need is a shovel. My wife and I are getting a little old and are not as strong as we once were. We put down a plastic sheet in the back of the van, then unloaded the cement a shovel full at a time, avoiding heavy lifting. The largest project was the 60 foot long 5 foot wide border behind our water Iris. This took about a week without too much labor in any one day. If you have someone strong enough to lift the bags into your wheelbarrow, you can wheel the bag to the place of construction.
Hi trois, I have shovels, no shortage of those over here. I am a short and small person, my husband calls me height challenged but I can hold my own much to his shock. My oldest son is over 6' tall already and every once in a while I am blessed with a few bursts of willingness to be productive over here. I don't hold my breath though as it only happens once in a blue moon. I am going to try to go for this project this spring. I am actually very excited about it and your photos were what I have been waiting for. I had been looking and looking for the longest time for an "end result" that would fit what I had dreamed in my head and yours does just that. I know exactly what I want but I am not creative so I am thankful for people like you who share your labors of love. I can't seem to find an image of your 60' x 5' border to your water iris. Am I missing it or is it in another thread?
Trois, about the water lily in the big free standing pot. Is the pot filled with dirt and kept muddy, kind of like a lotus bog? And, do the lilies bloom just as well as they would in a pond? I really like that and seriously think I need to try it!
I think you are missing it, likely because you expected it to be taller. It is only about 10 inches high, and right against the tall water iris, not blooming. It is basically just an irregular, uneven border that serves as a rock for walking and standing next to the Iris. The inside edge extends into the water.
We have several Water Lilies in free standing pots. We places a layer of tough, thin plastic over the bottom drain hole, covered with dirt to hold it down, about 8 inches of dirt, then 4 to 6 inches of water on top. Most of these Lilies have bloomed more than the ones in the Lily pond, I suspect because we can walk right up to them for feeding purposes. Just be sure to place some kind of fish in them that will eat the skeeters when they come to lay eggs.
The part you are seeing takes about 10 bags. I 'm not able to find my notes right now, but most of the structure is wet sand, covered with cement. The cement is about 3 inches thick over the sand. Home Depot has 40 pound bags and it would take about 20 of those. I buy from a local lumber yard that carries 80 pound bags. Moss and Lichens are growing over the rocks just as they would real ones. They have suffered no weather damage since installing. No cracks.
Just do all shaping the shaping with the sand and avoid the urge to smooth the cement. Try a small sample of color and let it dry before you settle on the final mix. No slope should exceed about 40 degrees. The cement will slide off otherwise, requiring a lot more cement to cover the sand. If you dont like the finished color, you will already have the solid form. Just recoat the structure with a different mix. Slinging the paint on after the mix partially dries covers a lot of otherwise bad looking spots.
Our house is on the Brazos River. Near the river there's about a 15' drop down to a flat area. We've been trying to come up with a cost effective way to make steps down to the river. The bids we've gotten from contractors are very high - even just using sakrete bags. Our soil is very sandy. I'm wondering if we could drive rebar down into the sand for extra strength and stability then use your method to form steps and then make some natural looking rocks along the edges. We could do a step or two at a time to keep it from being too formidable. One consideration is that the river will occasionally rise and cover the steps- maybe even the whole 15' bank. Seems to me if we use enough rebar that it wouldn't wash away. Theres a recessed area where we're thinking of putting the steps that would somewhat protect them from the full flow of the river when it's up. I would really appreciate your thoughts on this.
PS I love all the photos you've posted. If even half of the flower pic you've posted have been from your yard, you must live in the Garden of Eden!
How steep is the slope?
Can you dig it further back to create a less steep slope? Then maybe you wouldn't need steps. On a smaller scale I have used bags of sackreet left in the bag and with 2- 6 foot steel fence posts driven in front so they wont slide. The bags will harden and become like rocks. Then you can top them off with whatever finish you desire. Just leave about 4 inches of post sticking out of the ground. This might take a while but would get the job done. If the slope is verticle, then 4 poles spaced apart apart about 3 feet wide and parallel to the cliff could support steps, of treated wood. Two tall poles at the top of the cliff and two short ones at the bottom, all in deep. From top to bottom connect with 2 x 12 notched for steps.
I may have a distorted vision of your problem. Let me know.
WOW! Trois, I'm glad I came upon this thread! I have a long,large shady yard that I was planning on purchasing alot of brick,ect, to help cut down on mowing. Your instuctions are great! Thanks so much for sharing with everyone! I think in Iowa due to all the constant freezing/thawing in the winter that I would 1st have to top the sand pile with chicken wire and then the cement mix's , at any rate I will be a 'rockin' too! Thanks again, Jill
I will, it will be a while before I can start, probably May, but what a great idea! I'll have to keep an eye out for concrete mix specials, and the sand I'll just get a whole bunch in bulk and start a sand pile beings sand is used for many gardening reasons. Thanks again Trois!
I just thought of another question. The hand made rocks are really heavy, aren't they? I was just thinking of what would be feasable if I made a rock in the wrong place and wanted to move it. Would it be virtually impossible?
This method pretty much requires making them where you want them. There are other methods of making latex or other lighter materials that can be moved. The ones I make are large and heavy, and you can walk on them just like real rocks.
Linda, I would make a landing at least 2 x 4 feet about where the bottom of the ladder is, then make another up one step and to the right. In other words, curve the steps to the right along the cliff face to avoid the excessive steepness. If you cut a path straight back you run the risk of cave in along the sides. Curving along the face to the right will make a longer but easier to use set of stairs. I would still use the rebar or posts and sacrete for the steps to help hold when the river floods. The larger each step is, the less danger of falling on the way down. It will take a lot of shovel work any way you do the job, I think. With a little extra effort you could make a gentle curved trail all the way without steps. You would still need the solid floor because of floods. We live about 30 miles East of the Brazos and it does flood here big time. We frequently go to where it goes into the Gulf.
All the flowers posted are from our yard unless it says otherwise. I usually don't say where our flowers are. All of the flowers don't bloom at once or it would indeed look like the garden of Eden.
Thank you so much for the thought you put into this. I think you are right about curving it along the bank. Once the bags of sacrete were cured out, do you think I could cover them with an inch or two if the mixture you used to make them look more natural?
trois, I was thinking about using empty cola cans (in a plastic bag or otherwise grouped together). Pour concrete over the bag of cans. Empty cans will make the boulders lighter weight and reduce the amount concrete needed. However, I think the cans would make the "structures" weaker so I intend to be careful about over using them. What do you think of this idea?
John, anyway you go the finished structure will be heavy. The cement must be at least 3 inches thick for you to walk on. What's under it would not matter as long as it holds the final structure until the cement is cured Most of the ones I have made were far too large to be moved anyway. I guess I should try some smaller ones and find out.
Trois, its your 60'x7'x 14" "outcrop" idea that I like best. My plan is a takeoff of that idea. Use the 'ourcrop' as a sitting area bordered by flower beds and a water feature and, fit in a campfire somewhere. Sort of like an old west drifter's camp. Silly I know but, I'm old and get to be a kid again!
Trois, PLEASE let the 9yr old DGS climb that ladder and take that picture, or one from the end long ways might give us a good ideal of the scope of your project.
lol, Sugarfoot, there you go again, making me wonder when I had ask that question.
I just saw this thread for the first time, Trois - these rocks...Well...ROCK. What a neat idea to do them in place and build them up by layers. That would be something Howie and I could do a lot easier than moving rocks (even fake ones) around.
I'd like to do some edging for around some beds. I've seen it done where you dig a trench and pour quickcrete in the trench, then add water. Yours are much more attractive, however.
Thank you. Many people have asked where we got such big rocks, and others have said that they thought no rock occured around here. Most were surprise that we had made them. Almost all Zoos make rocks. I'm not sure, but many look a lot like mine. They make even bigger ones.
Has anyone tried this method yet in an area that gets freeze/thaw action? It sounds like an ideal way to border beds... my DH has been agitating for a "mowing strip" in front of my beds, partly because he figures a permanant border will keep "my" garden from further encroaching on "his" lawn! Somebody mentioned chicken wire... would that provide enough flexibility to prevent cracking?
I just found this thread, and I'm excited about the possibilities!
critterologist, I would think that if your "outcrop" did not exceed 6-8 feet without going back in the ground that you would be ok. However, I am not a concrete expert. Lets wait and see if someone who knows comes along.
p.s., I don't gotto watch no stinking bumps, Sugar.
Trois, I would really like to try this myself as well. We are wanting to add on to our pond and build the waterfall up with dirt and lots of stacked rocks and big boulders.
My husband is a Construction Superintendant and knows a great deal about concrete and I noticed someone had a ? about concrete. However he is used to huge loads of concrete in trucks, but I'm sure if he can, he'd be glad to answer any ?'s anyone may have. What do you suggest as the center of a big boulder? And do you usually use the same thing for all size rocks, or do you use something different for smaller one's? I wondered about big styrofoam balls wrapped in newspaper, or could you tell me what is the best thing to use?
Thanks for the interest.
Most of the time I use sand as the base. I have used blocks of styrofoam, 12 inches thick. Sand is best if it isn't to be moved.. I have also built something of wood and covered it with chicken wire. You can use almost anything that is strong enough to hold the raw materials. One way to make large flat rocks is to put down a layer of sand, cover it with reinforceing materials, build it up to the desired depth, then turn it over, then top coat the former bottom. This gives a rock with reversed slopes, wider at the top than at the botttom. Just keep the color correct all the way through. I have a tractor with A fork lift attachment to lift and turn over large ones. The size is limited to what you can handle.
I have been making rocks for a couple of years. I want big rocks that are moveable. I have tried various methods. The one I like best is to take stucco lath and shape it into a rock shape. The lath is fairly rigid, holds it shape and takes the mortar nicely. I use a pigment dyed mortar and slop it onto the lath...neatness does not count. The pigment is the same used to tint concrete and is readily available at Home Depot. While the mortar is still wet I then use a slurry of mortar and dye of a different color and splatter it on using a paintbrush and a flicking motion. I use several slurries of different colors to give a granite look. Some professionals use regular latex paint for splattering and say it holds up remarkably well. I like to use mortar slurry. IMPORTANT TIP: I also use polypro or nylon fiber in the mortar. This prevents cracking and allows me to have a very thin coat of mortar (about 1"). My rocks look big and heavy but can be moved by two people. This fiber can be obtained from a redi-mix outfit or online. You use about a handful per 1/4 yard of mortar. It must be mixed in well. It is very effective in preventing cracking. I can stand on my rocks. I often put waste styrofoam inside the lath form to give structure to the rock, but this is not necessary except to help mold the lath to a nice shape. I also take alot of time putting fissures and wrinkles and ridges in my rocks to make them look authentic. Most people are surprised when I tell them they are faux.
If it stops raining today I will go out and take a picture of the lath and the dye bottles so you know what products I am talking about. The pic below is a rock under construction in which I used chicken wire over styrofoam with a visqeen interliner to prevent the mortar from falling through the wire. I have stopped using this method in favor of using the stucco lathing which is an expanded steel meshing product. It takes the mortar very well, allowing me to use a very thin coat of mortar. The only disadvantage is that it is fairly hard to bend into shape. I have learned to treat it rough. I bang on it, jump on it, drop it and generally wack at it to get it into the shape I want. That is why having some styrofoam inside helps give some overall shaping to the project. I also forgot another tip which makes for nice rocks. I use a white cement to make the mortar. If I am using the splatter technique I don't even dye it since it will be covered in the splattering anyway, and the white mortar makes for a nice white canvas. It also takes the dye nicely for tinting if you go that route. The disadvantage is it is way more expensive that plain portland cement. The fiber supplier is Fabcrete which you can find online. I try to get a link for you later.
Here is a pic of the expanded mesh I use. It is readily available at the Depot or a stucco supplier. I assume it comes in larger sheets. It is reasonably priced. There is a guy in Australia who markets a video and supplies for making rocks. He uses welded wire and covers it with a plastic mesh which he attaches to the wire frame with metal hog rings. He sells this mesh by the square foot and it is very expensive. He sells dyes and other stuff. Google "Ezy Rock" for his site. I needed a more cost effective solution. It would cost you about $50 for a decent size rock using his system. My rocks are about $8, not counting labor, of course. BTW, I just attended a seminar at the San Francisco Garden Show last weekend and got a few good ideas for methods and a coloring product. I have not tried it yet. Will report on it later.
Here is a picture of one of the display gardens at the SF Garden Show this year. It was a garden made to look like a giant rock quarry or alpine rock grotto. The rock work was huge and very realistic. It included a bar and outdoor kitchen make from faux rocks.
1/4" hardware cloth does not work very well. Holes are too big. Mortar falls right through. You would have to line with visqeen. Not worth the trouble. Also hardware cloth is pretty expensive. It will work if you use a very thick mortar I suppose, but I tried it and couldn't get it to work. Another technique which is similar to ones talked about on this forum is to form a mound of dirt the size of the rock you want. Cover it with large pieces of wet cardboard and slather your mortar on top. I have seen a video of this technique and there's no reason it won't work, altho I have never tried it. I like to form my rocks into more intricate shapes than just a lump of dirt would give you. I have discovered there are as many ways to make artificial rocks as there are rock-makers. The real trick is to get the rocks to look real. The most realistic rocks I have seen were in Ojai, California where the city landscaped its downtown in real and faux rocks. I believe they used a fiberglass process and imbedded fine sand in the plastic seal coat. They were absolutely realistic. In fact it was that which inspired me to take up rock-making. I am sure that process is very expensive. I am too poor ! I need cheap. The pic below shows the result of the splatter technique. I used black, white, gray and dark brown slurries as my splatter material.
I believe Trois applies the mortar to sand piles. Is that right Trois? In that case the sand acts as a backer to support the mortar and you could use hardware cloth or chicken wire as reinforcement. But I make hollow shapes which are then covered with mortar. Hardware cloth, especially 1/2", would not give enough structure for the mortar to cling to and it falls right through. Thats what I like about the stucco mesh. Mortar really clings to it and you can go really thin with it and with the polypro fiber you get phenomenal strength with just an inch of mortar. I can stand on my rocks even tho they are only about an inch or so thick. If light weight is not a problem (as where you are not going to move them), then that it a completely different kettle of fish. I am going for moveable rocks. Or Trois maybe you had luck with the hardware cloth because your mortar is stickier than mine, or you are better at getting it to stick. I couldn't seem to get it to stick without some sort of backing material. I did use a mortar on another project (not rockmaking) and it seemed very sticky but it was way too expensive.
I seldom move rocks. I usually make them much too large anyway. I have made some entirely from expanding foam that were very light, and after painting passed as rocks. They will not support weight though. I use the regular ready mix for the bottom 2 inches and cover with a finer colored layer of about 1 inch. Then paint splatter. which has stayed on a very long time. Even if some of it peels, It doesn't bother the rock effect.
The dyes are not cheap. I bought a large box of the powder several years ago, I think 25 pounds, and it lasted years and many projects. My first project was a duplex dog house that I covered with Terra Cotta concrete, with splattered paint. I still have chunks of this left after breaking it up when I sold the house. The color and the splatters still look good. It looked like a cave and the dogs loved it.
John, watch the bad mix piles at Paint stores. (Of course I'm so tight, I also use opps mixed togeather to paint the interior of my home.)
Pick up dark rejects, Latex only and go for it.
They now want people to pour out latex paints and let dry, then throw that away. I have a couple of gallons of some throw away green I might try to form-up for a small water bowl in a otherwise rough exterior.
Ya'll sure spark my imagination.
As soon as the weather cools again, I am going to start on a large one, about 15 feet by 35 feet long, but not very tall. This will be for setting pots on and will keep the weeds down. It will be our usual terra cotta color. This is in an area between 2 planter boxes. If all goes well.
Since I make the rocks in layers, I only dye the final layer. This reduces the cost a great deal. There are commercial outlets that sell bulk dye powder. I will see if I can come up with a name or two. It has been years since I purchased bulk dye, and it lasts a long time. Bulding supply companies usually sell a thick liquid for that is much more expensive. Even so, It is not necessary to use at full strength or to mix perfectly. Doing so will not make an attractive rock. More later.
Google "Bulk Concrete dye" and you will find a wealth of information on dyes and stains, including sales places in your area.
Just remember that some splatters of different color will be needed on the final product to create a more natural looking rock. Also, avoid any smoothing on the final layer as it will look like someone made it. Do all the shaping in earlier stages. The final stage can be a thin liquid just thicker than paint unless there will be a lot of foot traffic, then it should be a bit thicker.
This is a fabulous idea, Trois - I'm excited to have stumbled on it. There are plenty of rocks here (amazingly not where I want to dig!) but getting one of the size I'd like where I'd like it isn't feasible. Scooterbug, I just saw your encouragement in another thread about how to handle the heavy bags, so I'm getting closer to starting something. Such great ideas here!
Thanks for the comments. Our rocks are still holding up well. They have a fine crop of moss and lichens growing on them now.
I can no longer lift the heavy 80 or 90 pound bags. I can roll them. or in a pinch open and divide. Dust is a problem in this method, so calm days are required. I get a lot of remarks from visitors about never having seen rocks in this area before, and wondering how they got there, especially one that is 50 feet long and 12 feet wide, that just happens to border my lily pond. My next project is having to wait a bit as I am building a lattice Wall at the present.
I was just referring about unloading from the back of the van. I totally agree about mixing in a wheelbarrow, as I have done many times the last few weeks. I will not wear a mask, just wait for better conditions.
This project is getting closer, I just know it. I've been thinking about doing such a project for two years, but something's been holding me back (fear, generated by ignorance). Now I can actually "see" what I want to accomplish, if I could just be convinced I'm ready to start. Here are some questions.
How long after the first layer is applied can you wait for the second layer?
Most important, if I were to get the first layer done by noon and it rained that night, what would happen?
1. When the first layer is crusted over, firm to finger touch. This presumes it was misted enough to get the top wet when the layer was completed.
2 It will probably be crusted over after 5 to 6 hours, then nothing bad will happen, unless it washes away underlying structure.
3. No, you need gravel, not sand mix. Adds strength.
4. Cover it with another layer, or remove the spot with a hammer. It will be easy for a couple of days. Then it will get hard.
This is a great thread. Just what I was looking for. Rocks built in place.
I have a slope where I am thinking of creating steps integrated into the dry stream.
That technique could be a way to accomplish the "integrated" stepping stones of
irregular shape. I have enough of the smaller boulders for the edging.
I probably could use old concrete old stepping stones to mold over for random shape
I love the way the rocks look as if they are coming out of the ground!
The easiest is sand, molded to the approximate shape. Layer until it is at least 3 inches thick. Mine are 8 years old now, look better all the time, with moss growing on them. We walk on them just like on rocks, and forget they are not.
I just had some stucco work done on my house and have a bunch of sand left in the driveway, was thinking of a good way to use it. I think this is perfect! Its very fine sand though... would it work?
Also I was wondering how did you get the height on the second rock you made for the " bucket'? is that all sand under it or did you use something else first?
Found this sight tonight and I'm so excited! A question though, that may already have been answered: can I use this concept to create a bubbler fountain, or a faux waterfall? We have so few rocks here in my area of FL. And I hate the thought of buyng rocks.
You can use the hypertuf & concrete installations in pretty much any way that concrete is normally used, which includes in-ground pools. So I would think a bubbler fountain would be a perfect first project.
Thanks to you both. I've only skimmed the different threads to get a feel for the project basics ('cept for using 'tufa!). The hyperfuf and concrete photos, and the wonderful step-by-step instructions here have helped solve some problems I've run into with my latest garden feature.
With ideas like these, I could do some really cool stuff! (cool being the operative word here---hot flash coming on!)
No, Hap, didn't realize/remember (?) there was one. Is there another RU coming up in the central FL area? I haven't been keeping up online. Saturday "the girls" (BFFs) and daughters spent the day at the Ren Fest. Sunday in the garden all day planting deep disount sale on Easter leftovers. Not sure I've met Molly yet. Hi Molly, if you're watching! I'm Julianne, nice to meet you. I'll belatedly check the link above.
I love this project. I was thinking of making something out of hypertufa, but was kind of daunted by the whole mold and hold process. This makes it seem much more doable. I need some boulders around my place, so this will definitely be a project I take on!
If you were careful to make sure the wire was away from the sand, and that the cement mix went through the wire to the sand, it should be the same as putting a layer of cement, and then laying the wire.
I've been a reader for years mostly plant i.d. and pest i.d. and that sort of thing. I have just recently delved into these forums. I'm very much interested in Faux Rocks for my little lot in AZ which I am doing over starting this winter. It's on a shoestring so I am hoping to cast my pavers and tiles for a bar in concrete, but I'd love to do some rocks also. This forum makes me happy I'm a member here! Thanks for bumping!