| Author | Content |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
 January 10, 2006
05:18 PM Post #1967431
| DH used to work for a tile manufacturer, so in our homes, I've had my share of tile in all shapes, textures and sizes, linoleum, carpets of varying types and grades, real wood, and laminate. But my favorite flooring is definitely the laminate, hands down.
We've got oak-strip type laminate everywhere in our home except the kitchen, laundry, baths and bonus room.
We put real tile in the baths & laundry, carpet in the bonus room, and tile-look laminate in the kitchen (and most people think it's real tile until they reach down to touch it.)
It's more scratch-resistant and durable than wood (it's held up to kids, skateboards, dog claws, and traffic with minimal care), it's far warmer to walk on than tile (and a dropped glass or plate at least stands half a chance of not shattering.) It's a breeze to keep clean, and I can pull out my refrigerator and stove without worrying about ripping the flooring, like I would with even heavy lineoleum.
Anyone else have laminate? If so, do you like it as much as I obviously do? |
mgh
Willamette Valley, OR
(Zone 8a)
January 10, 2006
07:45 PM Post #1967792
| Glad to see you started this thread, Terry. I was going to start one myself to see if anyone has this flooring and how they like it. My DH and I are going to put laminate in our kitchen/dining room this summer. First reason is that our vinyl is peeling apart at one of the seams (right in front of the range...why they put the seam there, I have no idea) and the second reason is exactly what you said about your fridge. We had an accident with orange juice getting spilled under the fridge and I had to pull it out to clean under it. Well, now we have 3 or 4 lovely holes in the vinyl! Grrrrrr...
Did you install the flooring yourself? |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
January 10, 2006
08:22 PM Post #1967900
| mgh, we did install it ourselves.
The first time around (most of the oak-strip type) was a glued laminate, which we put down in mid-2000. (Witex was the brand name.) It's pretty messy, and I would recommend the glueless systems over a glued system any day. But the glueless systems rely on friction to create a tight fit, so be prepared to get a little "firm" with it to get them in place.
One other thing I recommend is to get a good set of laminate installation tools (there's an s-shaped grab bar and a tapping block that you can't install the flooring without - you'll tear up the edges getting it in place if you don't have these two tools.) |
mgh
Willamette Valley, OR
(Zone 8a)
January 10, 2006
09:01 PM Post #1967986
| Thanks for the tips, Terry. We planned on getting the glueless type so I guess that means we will need to get the tools. Oh, my poor DH will be so upset that he has to go buy new tools...Yeah, right! LOL |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
January 10, 2006
09:13 PM Post #1968017
| Good luck! If you're fairly handy at DIY projects, this ranks as one of the easier/faster projects (compared to installing tile or wood flooring, especially.)
BTW, the tools will come in an installation kit from wherever laminate flooring is sold. Be sure to ask them if they have a heavy-duty pull-bar (the Pergo kit has a flimsy bar, but we got one at either Lumber Liquidators or Home Depot that was heavy-duty and worked better. You need to be able to hit it with quite a bit of force to pull that flooring into place, and the Pergo one bent after a few strikes - not good.
The kit should also contain "spacers", which you'll need to keep the flooring a little ways from the walls as you put down the first few rows (after that, it's heavy enough it typically stays in place by itself, but we left the spacers in place until we were done with the last row. |
mgh
Willamette Valley, OR
(Zone 8a)
January 10, 2006
10:18 PM Post #1968198
| Well, 2 years ago my DH and I installed a new front door, a new side door from the garage, and all new windows in our house. Do you think flooring will be easier than doors and windows?
We have seen this flooring available in Costco from time to time. Is there any difference between that and the flooring you would find at Home Depot or a flooring store? I'll have to check on it more. Thanks for the tips on the pull-bar too...we'll be sure to get a heavy duty one.
We'll probably leave the spacers in too...don't want to have to do it all again. ;-) |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
January 10, 2006
10:29 PM Post #1968241
| If you've installed doors and windows, you can do this flooring. Just be sure you buy a little extra because you will make some "oopsies" and chip an edge, or mismeasure a cutout around a vent or doorway opening. (Unless your measuring skills are superior to ours - which is possible!)
The guides will usually tell you to buy 10% extra for waste and mess-ups.
I don't think you'll find any difference in how it goes together - it's all manufactured to very tight specifications. The differences are in the thickness of the flooring, the quality of the appearance of graining (is it "sprayed" on, or does the laminate appear to have actual ridges? Thicker flooring generally equals better durability.
Our bedroom flooring (bought four years after we did the living, dining, den, and hallway) was an $0.87 per foot closeout from Lumber Liquidators (a few weeks later they ran a sale, and the same stuff was as low as $0.25 per foot - sigh. Patience *is* a virtue.)
It's slightly thinner than what we put in the other areas, but the threshholds make the 2 mm difference impossible to spot.
I've had the "cheap stuff" down for a year, and love it as much as the rest of the laminate. It cleans up with a few swipes of the dustmop or stickbroom, and I can wear high heels across it without worrying about gouging it (unlike my hardwood floors in our last home.) |
Lilypon
Moose Jaw, SK
(Zone 3b)
January 10, 2006
10:32 PM Post #1968253
| Terry I'm so glad to read the above! Ü When my parents' house burnt they lost the oak wood flooring in the kitchen and dining room and Dad chose the oak laminate to replace it. It isn't installed yet but it will be soon.
I'll be passing your findings on to him. :) |
fireant13
(Zone 9a)
January 10, 2006
10:54 PM Post #1968301
| I am surprised by all the new forums. I agree--laminate is great.
My brother-in-law put Pergo laminate in his house in 2001, and it still looks new, unlike carpet. Then my brother is in the process of putting it in his house over the old terrazzo.
It has changed the personality of his house. The terrazzo was pinkish with colored specks. It looked dark, was as hard as ceramic, and felt cold--even in Florida. He has installed the Pergo in his bedroom, the living, dining, hall, and is going to put it in the other bedroom soon.
He and my brother-in-law have been installing it themselves. It requires patience, but it looks as if it is a professional job. They both bought their Pergo at Home Depot while there was a sale--the floating, locking system. The blue pad underneath not only insulates, but also provides cushioning for the feet. (I think the pad was updated since 2001. My b-i-l likes the new one better.)
When I am down there next, I will get a picture of the terrazzo still not covered and the laminate to show the difference. The rooms even feel larger. |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
January 10, 2006
11:05 PM Post #1968323
| Yep, that's what we found, too. The laminate just kind of "glows" with a certain amount of reflected light - compared to carpet, the bedrooms feel much more spacious.
And yes, the padding is important. We used the expensive rubber pad in our main traffic areas (halls, living areas), and I'm glad we did - the flooring was less-than-perfect (we used leveling compound to even out a few noticeably sloping areas), and the thicker padding makes footsteps in those areas a little more muted. Plus it eased over the remaining slight imperfections in the subflooring. We used the less-expensive foam in the bedrooms (the floors were in better shape, and they don't get as much daily traffic), so the less-expensive grade worked out fine in those areas.
Talking about padding reminds me: I would definitely recommend making sure your floor is as level and smooth as possible before you begin, though. And sweep and vacuum it several times to keep up all grit and dirt as you lay the flooring. (Think of the old "princess and the pea" fairy tale for an idea of how a tiny piece of sand or a staple can feel HUGE under a floor ;o) |
mgh
Willamette Valley, OR
(Zone 8a)
January 10, 2006
11:18 PM Post #1968348
| So right now we have vinyl in our kitchen/dining room and under that vinyl is another layer of vinyl. We were planning to take out both layers. Do you think this will be enough or too much space for the padding and the flooring? |
fireant13
(Zone 9a)
January 10, 2006
11:18 PM Post #1968349
| I think that's why they are stalling on installing the other bedroom. That room was an add on, and the connection from the hall and place where a closet was altered need to be smoothed over. But the terrazzo was probably an ideal surface to work from--smooth and flat. It at least appears level. |
fireant13
(Zone 9a)
January 10, 2006
11:19 PM Post #1968352
| It should be enough. |
orchidfancy
College Park, MD
(Zone 7a)
January 11, 2006
09:53 AM Post #1968957
| This fall I remodeled my kitchen and decided to put laminate on the floor after considering all the options. Pergo was nice had a lots of choicebut was la lot more time consuming that what I had available plus the warranty was only 15 years. I checked another company same story. After alots of reading and going to home depot , lowes and other places, I opted for dupont new floor covering . I was a little bit more expensive than Pergo but the instalation was a lot easier and the warranty was a 25 years instead of 15. We were limited in the chosing but I opted for a flooring that looked like a peachy type of stone. I love it, it is easy to keep clean , it looks great, and it was so easy to install . If I had to do a floor again I would pick this product.The rest of my house is either ceramic that my husband and I installed ourselves or hardwood floors since I have allegies when I have carpets. The only one not fond of the floor is the dog because he slides across the floor when ever he is in hurry to go bark at a squirrel... |
fireant13
(Zone 9a)
January 11, 2006
01:38 PM Post #1969493
| DuPont is a good name. If I ever get rid of my carpet, I want a laminate or lock and set type of product. |
kbaumle
Northwest, OH
(Zone 5b)
January 11, 2006
05:16 PM Post #1969986
| My DH has been dragging his feet about putting down ceramic tile and he wants vinyl or laminate that looks like tile. If the laminate really looks like ceramic tile, then I don't care! |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
January 11, 2006
05:39 PM Post #1970030
| If you've lived with real tile and/or you walk on it barefoot, you won't be fooled by laminate. But our tile-look laminate has fooled most visitors to our home - they think it's tile unless they bend down and touch it.
It doesn't feel like tile under your feet, but that's not a bad thing (tile can be slick and cold, and in my last kitchen I suffered from terrible backaches after standing for long periods of time in the kitchen. The laminate is still quite firm, but with the padding underneath, it seems to have a bit more "give" in it and my back doesn't hurt as much after marathon cooking sessions. It's also much warmer - nice on cold mornings ;o)
I should point out that our floor is on a crawlspace - the hardness factor will be pretty much equal for tile or laminate if you're dealing with a slab foundation. |
fireant13
(Zone 9a)
January 11, 2006
05:48 PM Post #1970050
| The laminate pad and surface does help, though. On tile or terrazzo, drop something and it splinters into hundreds of pieces. It may still break on laminate, but not as badly. I also hate trying to get the grout in tile clean. |
MeemsDream
Plymouth, MI
(Zone 6a)
January 11, 2006
11:38 PM Post #1970865
| Hi all, We are moving in a few days and l had Pergo laminate installed in every room but the bathroom which is ceramic tile. We had a laminate floor in the kitchen of the home we are moving out of for about 4 yrs. and I loved it. Sooooooooooooo easy to care for and it doesn't look any different then the day we put it in.The new house looks beautiful, we are so pleased with it. I would not have anything else! The designs are much nicer now. I chose a light maple plank that has a lifetime guarantee. It made the house look so much larger and brighter. I will put some rugs down here and there. Meem |
raisedbedbob
Valley Lee, MD
(Zone 7a)
January 12, 2006
02:11 PM Post #1971919
| We have Pergo throughout our house except in the bathrooms. It's great stuff. I made an important discovery about it during my last painting project. Latex paint does not stick to it. |
ozarkian
Gravois Mills, MO
(Zone 6a)
January 16, 2006
08:18 PM Post #1981651
| I have put down a lot of laminate flooring. All the floors in my house are laminate. I will not deal with PERGO. I have heard many times about them renigging on the warrenty. So beware Bob. We used Quick Step in this house. Quick step is made in Germany. It is a good product. Use a pad under the flooring that will seal out moisture and also silence it. laminate of any kind is notorious for clicking when you walk on it. Keep in mind that the flooring will come in quality grades. Be extra careful near doors and patio doors. The moisture and condensation at these points from temperature change can buckel the bloor at the seams. What I do is seal at the door then put in a narrow piece of wood and nail it down. Then I seal again and make my spacing for floor expansion next to that. It is like a double seal is all. I do not recommend the floors with the bevelled edges. They look nicer but they will take water into the joints like a funnel. If you spill water on any laminate flooring get it up right then aspecially if it is hot. Hot bwater gets into the joints real easy. I hope you understand you never ever mop the floor. The amout of water you use in mopping is far far to much.
You will need a good chop saw with a carbide blade with a real high tooth count to cut off your laminates. And if you got much to do buy two blade because you will need them. The laminate topping is so hard it will wear out a carbide blade pretty fast. Your small corner cuts can be made with a saber saw and metal cutting blades. Buy several blades because they last about 2 feet of cutting and they are dull.
If I ever replace these though I tell you I would use regular hardwood. Really that is not very hard to put down either. you will have to get it finished but the price is comparable to good laminate. If your thinking of ever selling the Hardwood will bring more value than laminate also. |
WigglyPaw
Hastings, MI
(Zone 5b)
January 20, 2006
08:30 PM Post #1989763
| Okay, heres a question:
What about dog pee and poops?
We do Mastiff rescue and also have two Pugs that are ill behaved some times.
Will laminate wood floors let the pee sink in and then stink forever more? Where
will the pee go? Does it seep inbetween the planks? Now I am really worried.
Perhaps the stone/tile with grout may be the way to go therefore? I think we could
get a more honest answer here than at any home store.
Thanks,
sheri and family
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
January 20, 2006
09:06 PM Post #1989859
| As long as it's cleaned up relatively quickly, the urine won't sink in; the poop shouldn't either. (We had to housebreak our Samoyed as she had been outdoors for a year, so I've got plenty of cleanups under my belt.) We never had a problem with it soaking in, swelling or causing an odor - but I doubt it ever sat for long periods of time ;o)
|
mgh
Willamette Valley, OR
(Zone 8a)
January 21, 2006
12:33 AM Post #1990282
| Great looking family you have there, Sheri! :-) |
raisedbedbob
Valley Lee, MD
(Zone 7a)
January 21, 2006
09:22 AM Post #1990636
| Ditto what Terry said, Sheri.
|
MeemsDream
Plymouth, MI
(Zone 6a)
January 31, 2006
11:38 PM Post #2014580
| What do you all use to clean a laminate floor???
Meem |
escambiaguy
Atmore, AL
(Zone 8b)
February 10, 2006
01:00 PM Post #2035253
| I work for a carpet manufacturer and make it everyday but I will never put it in my house again. It's just too hard to clean (my boss frowns when I say that). I put the laminate flooring in my living room and hallway and have no problems with it. I bought mine at Sam'sClub at a reasonable price. If your floor is not perfectly straight like mine, the laminate will bend a little to be able to go over it. As long as you dont leave any big gaps between the pieces, water will bead up and sit on the top. I have never had any soak through. My Boston Terrier sometimes has accidents too. I bought one of those mops from wal-mart that has the elastic terry cloth on it. I just run it under hot water, then ring it out real good and spray it a few times with 409 and then mop. Then it can be tossed in the washing machine. If you have one of those floormate machines, that would be perfect for laminate. Since it vacuums up the excess water. The disadvantage is if your dog has long toenails and walks alot. The constant "clicking" can get on your nerves. I hope this helps everybody. |
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
February 10, 2006
08:09 PM Post #2036236
| I have been reading your posts about laminate..
I'm having an estimate done tomorrow to have it put down in my kitchen. I sure hope it will be as wonderful as you all say. I don't have any pets so I won't have the clicking problem. :)
I sure hope they can do it soon. I am anxious to have it in place.
|
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
February 10, 2006
09:43 PM Post #2036487
| LOL, escambiaguy is exactly right about the clicking. Our Samoyed sometimes gets hot during the night and paces up and down the hall looking for a cool spot to lay. We can always tell when it's time to trim her nails again ;o) |
raisedbedbob
Valley Lee, MD
(Zone 7a)
February 11, 2006
12:12 PM Post #2037593
| Chuckle. We know it's time to trim Gracie's nails when the clicking gets too loud. |
MaryMcP
Phoenix, AZ
(Zone 9a)
February 26, 2006
09:39 AM Post #2072464
| This is a great thread. .I read every single post and now would like to go back up to the person who talked about standing for long periods while cooking in the kitchen. I have thought of a cork floor in the kitchen area for just this reason but am concerned about spills. This area of my kitchen is small so the cost should not be too hard to manage. I like the idea of its being easy on my legs and back but am not sure it is practical for the meal prep area. Comments?
Thanks,
Mary |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
February 26, 2006
01:59 PM Post #2073018
| I think that might have been me that talked about getting a backache from standing on a concrete slab floor.
I encountered the same problem in my GH when it was on the driveway pad. DH solved it by buying me a 4-pack of 2' x 2' foam pads that interlock like puzzle pieces - I lined them up in a row, and ran them down the center "aisle" of my GH and they definitely ease the strain on my back.
I don't know if I'd use cork in a kitchen because I'm prone to spills and drops. I'd be concerned about stains (oil or something colored.) And sanitation - after a while it might get a bit "gamey".
I've never used my foam pads inside, but they have some advantages - relatively cheap, and can be hosed down if they get dirty. The biggest downside is the aesthetics - they ain't much to look at ;o) |
MaryMcP
Phoenix, AZ
(Zone 9a)
February 27, 2006
07:30 AM Post #2074640
| That's pretty much what I thought too about the cork but was hoping there was some 'trick' to keeping it clean. I guess one of those foam area rugs (on laminate) will have to do the trick for long standing sessions.
Went to HD yesterday to drool over the laminate flooring. The ones we like average about $3 sq ft. Yikes. I found a Lumber Liquidator here in Phoenix and DH will check them out today. Checking prices on-line, they have Dream Home laminate for $.78. Terry, I know you said you put the cheap stuff in a bedroom, would you restrict yourself to low traffic areas on the less expensive stuff? Seventy-eight cents vs three dollars is a huge difference. If the cheap stuff won't take the traffic, I'll spend the money for the better grade in the hallway, dining and family rooms. DH is partial to a bamboo laminate. Any comments?
Thanks for the feedback.
Mary |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
February 27, 2006
08:11 AM Post #2074687
| Mary, I think most laminate (even the thinner, less-expensive stuff) will stand up fine to hallway traffic from a typical family and normal walking patterns. however, if you have kids that want to ride a scooter or roller blades, etc. up and down the hallway, I'd go for the more expensive stuff, and look for one that touts a strong, scratch-resistant finish (not necessarily a glossy finish.)
Beyond that, I would say your choice should depend on which one you really like best. When it's in rooms you use a lot for yourselves or to entertain, you might as well put down a floor you really like and feel good about, IMHO.
To get an idea of how it will look, you may have to ask them to break out a box, and put several pieces together for you so you can see it as a good-size sample (A 12" long piece of one plank really doesn't give you an idea of how it's going to look on the floor, or how tight the seams lock together. |
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 03, 2006
04:21 AM Post #2083168
| I'm installing laminate in my living room and dining room areas, and I love the way it looks. The installation has been really easy so far, and my husband is impressed that I was able to do all of the work myself in a couple of weekends. I am almost finished...just waiting for the piano to be moved. Here is a photo of the dining room area.
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
fireant13
(Zone 9a)
March 03, 2006
08:18 AM Post #2083408
| It's beautiful. It sets the mood of the room.
I have a question. I was watching HGTV's Buy Me. A realtor walking through a house said the floating floor the homeowners just put in just devalued the house. I thought she was rather harsh, but the floor looked great, much better than wall to wall carpet. Why is that?
This message was edited Apr 11, 2006 1:31 PM |
MaryMcP
Phoenix, AZ
(Zone 9a)
March 03, 2006
08:19 AM Post #2083411
| Wow, very nice. What is that grey border around the edges?
Mary |
lizh
N.C. Mts., NC
(Zone 6b)
March 03, 2006
09:09 AM Post #2083489
| Looks so pretty.
I'm waiting to see what the border will be too. |
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 03, 2006
10:32 PM Post #2085076
| Thanks. The grey "border" is actually a layer of 6 mil poly vapor barrier which is under the laminate flooring and is folded up over the edge from beneath. It will be covered by the base board once installed. The manufacturer requires the vapor barrier extend up the wall and behind the base board 6 inches.
As far as the resale of a home with laminate flooring is concerned, it really depends on the value of the home and current trends in the surrounding neighborhoods. If you live in a home that sells for $600,000, laminate flooring may devalue your home. If your home is only worth $150,000 and is in a neighborhood of similar homes it will most likely enhance the value of your home, especially if other neighbors are installing it in their homes. Homes in my neighborhood are being updated with laminate flooring. I know this because I visit my neighbors frequently. Find out what the trend is in your neighborhood and go with the flow. If all of your neighbors have hardwood flooring instead, laminate flooring may not be the best option for you as far as resale is concerned. |
MeemsDream
Plymouth, MI
(Zone 6a)
March 03, 2006
11:05 PM Post #2085178
| Your floor really looks beautiful. I know you are going to love it , I know that I do. We just moved into our house a month ago and had laminate installed through the house. I really love it I had wood floors, carpeting, and tile but wouldn't trade this floor. It is so easy. In my case if I were moving I would be looking for laminate. Especially with the new styles they have now.
Meem |
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 04, 2006
06:22 AM Post #2085482
| My laminate floor is going to be installed today..hooray!
I will post a pic when it is done. It is 8.3ml Eurolock dark walnut.
Hgurule..I love your dining suite..very impressive..and of course your floors..LOL
Cheers,
Carol |
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 04, 2006
08:53 PM Post #2087081
| Here it is all done...except for putting things back in the cabinet.
That can wait ill tomorrow.
I love the look of it..and it is nice to walk on too. It is 8.3mil.
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
mgh
Willamette Valley, OR
(Zone 8a)
March 04, 2006
10:32 PM Post #2087385
| Wow, it looks great! Can't wait to get mine done! |
ann1023
Decatur, AL
March 04, 2006
11:07 PM Post #2087451
| Hello,
My husband and I are in the process of installing Pergo in our living room, dining room and hallway. So far, so good, but I have a few questions I thought someone might be able to help me with before we continue. There are several places that I will need to use transition pieces. I installed tile in the foyer and thought at the time that I could just install laminate right up to it, so I used the brass transiton piece there. Now I find out that 1/4 inch space should be left for expansion. The foyer is about 4 feet across. Does the floor indeed move that much? ( I am installing spacers around all of the walls.) It will look so much better at the foyer the way I had it planned rather than using the pergo transiton piece but I don't want to be sorry later if it starts to buckle. I will have 1/4 inch space at the opposite wall. Also, at our fireplace- thought I could lay laminate up to it and then trim it with quarter round. Only thing is, trim will have to be glued to laminate (working over a concrete slab) and therefore will move with the floor. Have never worked with laminate before and thought before we started that we could trim out like our best friends glued down hardwood floor. Wrong! Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
|
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 05, 2006
07:40 AM Post #2087819
| Sorry I can't help you Ann1023.
I had an installer put mine down.
Mgh..I have wanted this for so long..but all the work involved put me off...but now that it is over and done..it was worth it.
The installer even swept it up when he was done.
I put the baseboards back on.
My son came back and put the appliances in place...He had to remove the handles on the fridge to get it through the doorway.
Dishwasher was a pain to get off..had to use a torch to heat up the old hoses to remove them and we shut the water off to the whole house while the floor was being done.
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
March 05, 2006
07:59 AM Post #2087838
| Ann, we used oak thresholds for our doorways, and I stained them to match the floors (we have some extra-wide doorways and they didn't have prefinished trim long enough to cover those expanses.) I like the wood, even though it's got a little higher profile than some other transitions I think it looks better and blends in with the flooring better.
I'm not sure about the quarter-round (never dealt with quarter-round+brick over a concrete slab.) My guess is you could affix it to the brick with caulk or some other adhesive, rather than glue it to the floor (that way the floor could still "float" beneath it and you'd never notice a gap.) I'm sure someone in a flooring store could give you some pointers on how to deal with it. Also, if you start at the fireplace end and work away from it, you can ensure that is the most perfectly-straight and smallest 1/4" you've ever seen. You can always do a practice run - lay it out along the fireplace edge and see how it looks.
But yes, there *can* be some contraction/expansion - our house has been VERY dry this past month, and along with noticing the tiny cracks in the joinery of the wood doors (suddenly there's dark stain showing where white painted wood should be -ugh), I noticed a small seam in the laminate I've never seen before. Once our weather starts warming and the humidity rises, I'm positive it will disappear (and it's so small, I doubt anyone but I notices it - I'm the only one who stares at the floor on a regular basis to clean it, lolol.)
Most of the flooring instructions will tell you to bring the flooring inside for several days so its humidity level matches that of the home - that's probably good advice to heed, especially if your outside or garage temp/humidity is vastly different than inside your home. |
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 05, 2006
10:39 AM Post #2088212
| Ann...You definitely need to use the pergo transition piece to allow for floor movement between your foyer and the living room. The 1/4 of an inch can make all of the difference in the world. We have to make the same thing to transition between our tiled entry and the living room, and we were able to find a transition piece that we are happy with. If you do not like the color or texture of the transition piece, you can always shop around for one that you like better. Some people use real wood transition pieces like Terry did and just stain them to match.
We have the same problem with the quarter round around the fireplace and have decided to caulk it directly to the fireplace brick as Terry suggested above. I think that it will work out well. Whatever you do, do not glue it directly to the flooring. The laminate will shift around, and you will have a big mess!
Good luck, and be sure to send us pictures when you are finished! |
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 05, 2006
10:40 AM Post #2088216
| Very nice, Starzz!! |
ann1023
Decatur, AL
March 05, 2006
10:46 PM Post #2089953
| Thank you for your replies. Starzz, I noticed that you have a back door in your kitchen (as we do in our den). How did the installer install the laminate up to the threshold? We have a metal threshold and I am clueless about how to do it. (Again, the 1/4 inch space has me concerned here, also.) Floor looks great, by the way!
hgurule, thanks for the info on the fireplace. That is probably the way we will do ours, too.
|
escambiaguy
Atmore, AL
(Zone 8b)
March 06, 2006
01:55 AM Post #2090155
| I used the regular brass transition pieces where my laminate joins the carpet. Its been down over a year and has never buckled. |
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 06, 2006
07:23 AM Post #2090295
| ann..the installer left the quarter inch gap there.
I put all the baseboards back myself after he finished the install.
At the back door I put a bit of oak trim..and I am going to use double sided carpet tape to keep it in place against the door threshold.
I have to tell you..I dropped a fork yesterday..and I guess the tine hit first..I have a tiny chip out of the floor..I touched it with a light brown marker and you can hardly see it.
I think over time my floor will have that "stressed" look LOL
Hope this helps you.
Carol |
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 06, 2006
07:29 AM Post #2090311
| I just took a pic for you to see..
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 06, 2006
10:57 AM Post #2090693
| Thanks for posting the picture of your threshold, Starzz. It is very helpful to me as well. I never thought of using double sided carpet tape to hold it against the threshold. Very smart. Thanks. |
ann1023
Decatur, AL
March 06, 2006
06:37 PM Post #2091587
| Thanks for the picture, Starzz. The trim looks great at the threshold. That is exactly what I will do! |
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 06, 2006
07:08 PM Post #2091663
| I am happy to be of help.
This is all new for me too.
Cheers,
Carol
|
Lilypon
Moose Jaw, SK
(Zone 3b)
March 06, 2006
07:23 PM Post #2091692
| Thanks for the tip Carol. :) I'll be showing this thread to my Dad soon. |
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 06, 2006
08:24 PM Post #2091847
| You are very welcome..Lilypon |
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 08, 2006
07:02 PM Post #2096854
| Ok. I am finally done with the flooring downstairs, and I just have to put the baseboards in. Here are some pictures... 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 08, 2006
07:03 PM Post #2096858
| Picture 2
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 08, 2006
07:04 PM Post #2096861
| Picture 3 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 08, 2006
07:05 PM Post #2096862
| Picture 4 with a flash 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 08, 2006
07:08 PM Post #2096871
| Picture 5 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
March 09, 2006
07:13 AM Post #2098093
| WOW!
I'd say that Better Homes and Gardens should put your place in their magazine. It is gorgeous Hgurule. You have exquisite taste.
Did you put some felt pads under your furniture?
The colour of the floor looks great with the fireplace brick too.
Just beautiful..well done.
Cheers,
Carol
|
valbsings
Tillsonburg
Canada
March 11, 2006
06:21 PM Post #2105352
| Your laminate floors look amazing! I am going to put laminate into my house, after reading what's here. I have a friend who's been trying to convince me. I have a question about direction. What are people's opinions on running laminate parallel to the long side of the room vs perpendicular to it?
Thanks
|
valbsings
Tillsonburg
Canada
March 11, 2006
06:43 PM Post #2105400
| OH, one more question. How do you get a refrigerator into place on laminate? Mine is big, on wheels, but very heavy. Can it be rolled or will it ruin the floor?
Thanks again. |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
March 11, 2006
08:01 PM Post #2105609
| Re: orientation - it seems like I read in our instructions that said:
a) Run them parallel to the longest wall of the room; and
b) Run them parallel to the wall with the most windows (something about how natural light will reflect off the seams.
Another school of thought (as passed along to me by a veteran flooring expert) is to consider that a floor whose planks/seams runs parallel to the main doorway to the room will act as a subconscious, psychological barrier - people are less likely to enter the room; versus a room where the flooring runs perpendicular to the doorway, which tends to coax them in. I don't know for sure, but I think there's some truth behind the advice.
You should be able to roll your fridge across your new flooring without mishap, but to be on the safe side, you may want to consider putting down some cardboard for the trip - just to make sure the wheels don't scratch it on their maiden voyage across the brand-new floor ;o) |
hgurule
Summerville, SC
(Zone 8a)
March 12, 2006
11:57 AM Post #2107101
| Thank you for the compliments Starzz and Valbsings. I am so excited to finally be finished with the living room. I put felt padding under all of the furniture and used castor cups backed with felt for the piano legs.
Valbsings: I think that I saw something at Lowe's that is specifically designed to prevent scratches when moving a refrigerator. It is likely that someone at your local hardware store or flooring store will know the best solution. If you do not find what you need, the following website addresses this same question: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_thread... |
EileenAZ
Tucson, AZ
(Zone 9a)
March 12, 2006
03:41 PM Post #2107669
| I admit I read through this thread quickly and may have missed comments, but I'm surprised to see that nobody brought up two issues that we've discovered on two different laminate floors in two different houses.
The first is static electricity. We've been astounded at how staticky it is! Granted, we live in southern Arizona, and it's been really dry for a long time, but it's so annoying to get shocked by absolutely everything we touch after taking just a couple of steps on the laminate!
The second is the sound it makes when being walked on with hard-soled shoes, or dogs with longish claws. It's an awfully plastic tick-tick-tick sound that you don't get with wood.
Otherwise, it's tough as can be and resists stains like a champ. |
WyeGuy
High Wycombe
United Kingdom
May 02, 2006
05:45 AM Post #2241048
| I agree with Eileen that static electricity is a major problem with the laminate flooring that I have installed in my appartment. I think that the choice of shoes is an important factor but I only have to walk across the room in my favorite Timberland boots and touch the sink, metal balcony window, or any electric switch (chromed metal) to get a very uncomfortable zap of static discharge. I definately won't be fitting laminate again, I will be looking at a wooden ply board system next time. |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
May 02, 2006
10:01 AM Post #2241493
| I wonder if it has to do with your climate conditions, or the subflooring, or some other unidentified factors?
We live in a high-humidity area, and I've never noticed a static problem in our home. Now, getting in and out of my car - yes, definitely static shocks. One of our big "supercenter" stores recently remodeled and purchased new shopping carts. I don't know if it's the new flooring or the cart, but they're veritable mini power-generators - you get zapped every few seconds as you roll your cart along. (Ouch!)
I must agree the newer "engineered" hardwood floors are beautiful and apparently very durable - I'm definitely going to consider them if/when we move again ;o) |
mgh
Willamette Valley, OR
(Zone 8a)
May 02, 2006
12:43 PM Post #2241962
| Terry, I do think climate has something to do with it. We are very high humidity here too, mainly during the fall and winter. When the weather starts to change in the spring, the static starts in.
Also, a few years ago a new Safeway was built here. I went there a few times and everytime I touched something I got shocked. OUCH!! I don't go there anymore because of it |
Chinacat1
Barnhart, MO
May 08, 2006
12:34 PM Post #2259764
| Great forum! My son and I are currently installing Pergo Presto (Home Depot), as I really couldn't afford hardwood floors and our carpeting was 15 years old and very worn and dirty. And, we both have allergies. We found the installation, at first - the planks that go against the wall, first 2 rows, was not as easy as it shows in the video. We had a floor register to work and cut around for the very first row and that is not covered in the video or instructions. We must have watched the video several times and they made it look so easy. Of course, the video was done in stop-motion when the going was easy. So, I hope that in-between that (what they didn't show), there was as much wailing and gnashing of teeth as we did! Once you get the first two rows aligned and snapped or hammered in (using the block and the pull bar), we couldn't believe how much easier the rest of the installation was. We're installing in our "great" room, which has a weird layout between it and the kitchen & hallway, so a lot of sawing will need to be done! We're using a circular saw, for the most part and you really need to cut it with the "good" side down to avoid chipping. Also, use a carbide-tipped blade to minimize the chipping. Plus, we started installing the planks lengthwise, but with the layout of the room, had to change it to width-wise, as the installation would be much easier, plus we have windows everywhere, so it really doesn't matter.
As far as any exterior doors (sliding glass doors, in our case), use the Pergo sealant against the metal and leave a 1/2 inch, not 1/4 between the flooring and the door. Then, put the 1/4 inch round to cover the sealant to keep out any moisture. This probably works around the fireplace, too.
Since I'm over 50 and not as flexible as I used to be, not to mention the hard surface of the flooring wrecking havoc on my body, knee pads or the type of knee pads used for gardening have helped considerable when working with the flooring. IMPORTANT NOTE: ALWAYS MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE! AND...make sure you're cutting the right end, especially since you need to cut with the good side down. We've already learned this the hard way!
We're not done, yet, but the floor already looks fantastic!
As far as devaluation, our house is in the $150,000-$160,000 range and if we tried to sell it with the carpeting we previously had, we wouldn't have had any buyers! With the Pergo flooring, at least it looks beautiful and clean and the chances of us selling it - not that we're going to in the near future - would be much better. I'm sure hardwood floors would have been better, but I researched laminate versus wood and read that the laminate was much more pet-friendly - scratch-wise and clean-up-wise, plus we just couldn't afford the hardwood and the installation cost. We have 2 dogs, so I'll remember to keep their claws trimmed, though! Thanks for that advice.
|
Starzz
Newcastle, ON
(Zone 5a)
May 09, 2006
07:34 AM Post #2261839
| Congrats on installing your laminate yourselves.
I am loving mine.
I have had no problems with static..and I don't have pets.
Mine is so easy to take care of.
I use a Swiffer-vac for crumbs and dust..great little tool.
The only problem is if you drop a fork tines down from a height..I did get a tiny chip..but hardly noticable. |
daffyodill
McMinnville, TN
June 18, 2006
05:34 AM Post #2403251
| My son and I are installing laminate in the bedrooms this weekend. The problem is how to cut out for the ac vents in the floor. He laid the laminate over the entire floor first and marked where the vents where. Can you give some advice one how to do this and what type of tooling to use. None of the instructions we had gave any info on this. |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
June 18, 2006
08:23 AM Post #2403407
| I know we bought a special "laminate" blade for our circular-saw from Home Depot when we put down the last three rooms of laminate (bedrooms.)
I suspect DH also used a jigsaw to cut the corners out (I was doing the measuring and laying while he and DS did the cutting. |
jdhog
Monticello, UT
(Zone 6a)
April 18, 2007
05:42 PM Post #3406677
| My wife and I just moved into this house and 3/4 of the house was done in pergo presto. Two days after moving in the dishwasher sprung a leak and a lot of water got under the laminate and ruined a bunch of planks. I pulled out the ones that were water logged and then started to dry everything out. When I called the manufacturer they said that they discontinued the style that I have in 2004. so my question is this... does any body out there know where I can find some Pergo Presto Red Oak, Blocked that was made before 2004, or am I just out of luck? |
PudgyMudpies
Stockton, CA
(Zone 9a)
April 18, 2007
07:09 PM Post #3406896
| Is this it?
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/jsearch/product.j... |
jdhog
Monticello, UT
(Zone 6a)
April 24, 2007
08:48 PM Post #3427874
| Hey thanks for the link, but the planks that I have measure 50 1/2 in. in leangth and the stuf that home depot sells is smaller and it has a different locking system. I have called several of the stores and all of them ethier do not keep the red oak in stock, or if they do have it in stock they don't have anything that was made that long ago. Again thank you for the link and if you or anybody else has any other ideas of where i might find some that would work for me i would love to hear it. |
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)
April 25, 2007
04:15 AM Post #3428317
| Did you try this place? http://www.hardwoodbrokers.com/laminates/
Also, it looks like this person has or had some for sale: http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Need_Pergo_Presto_PH4577_Red_oak_...
Also, if you have the exact name and "model" (or whatever you call it ;o) numbers, you might try Lumber Liquidators - any of their stores can look up everything available in any of their other stores. (Shipping could get pricey depending on where it's located, but you might luck out.)
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