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Walls and Trim: paints, stains and faux finishes: I am thinking about painting over paneling

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Forum: Walls and Trim: paints, stains and faux finishesReplies: 38, Views: 245
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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

January 19, 2006
10:38 PM

Post #1987980

Is there a question in here?

Terry
Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)

January 20, 2006
9:49 AM

Post #1988612

One of those anomalies - probably on a day we were having timeout and slowdown roblems. Defoecat, were you wanting to ask IF you should paint over paneling, or HOW to paint over paneling?

It can be done - will it turn out how you want it to? I would say that will depends on your expectation level, the condition of the paneling, and the amount of prep work you're willing to do to achieve the desired finish.
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

January 20, 2006
1:14 PM

Post #1988988

I'm not sure what the question is either.
It can be done. I've done it a few times with fine results.
Prep work and primer are very important.
I've even done some Faux Finishes on the painted paneling.
Works fine but it still looks like paneling.
You can also paper over it if you first apply a backing paper.
Andy P
swampgal
Denham Springs, LA

February 12, 2006
11:16 AM

Post #2039931

Saw a TV program on a remodeling where they used very rough sandpaper on shiny panelling, applied sheetrock "mud" over the grooves and blended it out smoothly. After it dried 24 hrs they applied a very thin layer all over the panelling and let it dry. After a couple of coats of water-based paint were applied you couldn't tell it had been panelling. Check with Lowe's or that other big chain place on specifics. Be prepared to recruit help because your arms will fall off!!
defoecat
Pleasureville, KY
(Zone 6a)

February 13, 2006
12:51 AM

Post #2041682

Sorry life took over and I have not had time to post. I did paint over paneling. Just cleaned it well, and went to it. It looks great. This was a paneling that had no seams, just where the sheets were joined, so it did well. Thanks everyone for the input.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

February 14, 2006
10:46 AM

Post #2044313

That's great defoe! I like the look of painted paneling. It can bring new life to an otherwise drab and dated look. What color did you go for?

defoecat
Pleasureville, KY
(Zone 6a)

February 14, 2006
10:34 PM

Post #2045668

terryr, went for a light beige. When done painting, put up a wallpaper border, and you just can't believe the difference it has made to the room. Looks so much bigger, and brighter. Am going to put down new carpet come spring, and then will need the sunglasses, indoors as well as out. LOL.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

February 15, 2006
11:36 AM

Post #2046393

I bet it did make a huge difference! It's amazing what a little bit of paint can do, isn't it? I've seen some really cool sunglasses out there, so at least you have a great selection! LOL!
plantaholic2
MA, MA
(Zone 5a)

February 15, 2006
7:50 PM

Post #2047414

I have knotty pine panelling that I would like to paint, but I am concerned about the knots showing through. Has anyone ever tackled that? I was thinking maybe a colored semi-transparent stain would be best so as to not try to hide them but work with them. But yet again, I prefer a country painted, rustic look.



terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

February 15, 2006
8:17 PM

Post #2047490

planta, I had installed knotty pine planking in a previous home. I used milk paint, using 2 coats to give just a little transparency. I wish I had a picture...all my pictures from that house were on a computer that crashed before I burned them onto a disk.
Here's a link:

[HYPERLINK@www.milkpaint.com]
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

February 15, 2006
8:21 PM

Post #2047497

You sure can paint over knotty pine.
First, you have to wash it.
Then you sand it.
Nail down any loose seams and caulk to fill gaps.
Then prime it with 2 coats of B.I.N. a shellac based primer. (accept no substitutes)
The shellac is what blocks the knots from bleeding through.
Be sure to have good ventilation, remember 2 coats.
Use disposable roller, pan and brush. Have ThinX paint thinner handy for spills.
B.I.N. is rather thin so watch out for drips.
Let it dry overnight and paint with a good latex acrylic paint, 2 coats.
I've done it twice, it's not hard but the smell will knock you over.
Andy P
plantaholic2
MA, MA
(Zone 5a)

February 15, 2006
9:46 PM

Post #2047735

Andy, Sounds like that will do the trick. Definitely a summer windows-open project.

Do you know if B.I.N. can be tinted? I would most likely be painting a dark color, so a tint might help.

When you say caulk to fill gaps, do you mean the gaps between planks? Some of mine are kinda wide. I just took a close look and actually the planks aren't even flush with each other.

Wendy
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

February 16, 2006
7:52 AM

Post #2048295

Wendy, I don't think BIN can be tinted.
Wide gaps don't need to be 'filled' just smoothed out. so they don't catch the eye.
Not a big deal, though.
Andy P
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

February 16, 2006
4:18 PM

Post #2049302

Bin can be tinted...
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

February 16, 2006
4:46 PM

Post #2049375

I stand corrected, I've been wrong before.
Andy P
celticgirl75
Tishomingo, MS
(Zone 7a)

February 26, 2006
9:55 AM

Post #2072489

I am gettin ready to make my paneling walls not look like paneling- I'm not going for a smooth look, I want it to look like I've put it on with a putty knife. I've tried to research on how to do it the best way. Are the following steps the best way to go about it?
1. lightly sand the paneling
2. paint a coat or two of sealer/primer on the paneling
3. apply 2 coats of sheetrock mud to the walls (a light coat each time to prevent cracking)
4. apply 1-2 coats of primer to the dry sheetrock mud
Any suggestions? Can any of the steps be left out or changed to make it easier?
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

February 26, 2006
12:09 PM

Post #2072793

celtic, Make darn sure that every panel is nailed tightly down. Any 'play' will be susceptible to future cracking.
The steps above sound right to me.
It's not something I would do, though.
Andy P
Pashta
Moncks Corner, SC
(Zone 8b)

July 15, 2006
7:51 PM

Post #2510016

Celtic, there is a paper you can put up on paneling that, as it dries, it pulls tight and covers up those paneling grooves. I recommend that step after cleaning and lightly sanding. Sheet rock mud will be messy, time consuming, and a total pain to get completely smooth. Go for the paper, then prime and paint! :)
thelandlady
Eau Claire, WI

September 1, 2006
1:28 AM

Post #2680781

I've painted over paneling -- and it turned out beautifully. Much easier than tearing it down and dealing with whatever surprises may lurk behind it. I opted to keep the grooves as-is, rather than filling them in. Since my paneling only goes halfway up the wall, I painted it white, and it has the effect of beadboard or wainscoating. It was part of a complete overhaul of my back stairway, which I recently posted about on my website: [HYPERLINK@www.iboughtaduplex.com]

This message was edited Sep 11, 2006 12:18 PM
mininissandog
Tallahassee, FL
(Zone 8b)

September 1, 2006
10:37 AM

Post #2681463

To kinda deviate a little from the orig. question...

I have paneling in my kitchen that was painted (w/o mudding the joints etc.) when we bought the house if we wanted to take on the method of mudding the joints could we do it now or do we have to sand off all the paint etc. first?

Also I want to do a light yellow ... the white that is there now looks good but has anyone put a color on paneling or seen it...I've never seen paneling painted anything but white and I'm scared a color will make the lines stand out.
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

September 1, 2006
4:34 PM

Post #2682542

Mini, If the old paint is glossy you might want to run some sandpaper in the grooves to scar it up but not to remove the old paint before filling in. This will give the 'mud' something to grab onto.
You can paint it any color you want. If you want to 'soften' the grooves try a matte/flat finish. Most manufacturers now have a Ceramic paint that is totally washable, even in the matte finish. (Ben Moore, California and Sherwin Williams have it.)
Andy P
mininissandog
Tallahassee, FL
(Zone 8b)

September 4, 2006
10:58 AM

Post #2690134

Thanks sarahskeeper glad I don't need to sand everything down and the ceramic paint sounds like a great idea.
jadeliz
Gillespie, IL

September 14, 2006
10:15 AM

Post #2722044

Question: I want to paint paneling in lower half of room. The paneling is very old and has lost it's life. I have just finished painting the upper half of the room in Sante Fe Pottery (red clay) I love the color, but am not sure what color to go with on the paneling. I know that I don't want white, but am not quite sure what to do. The room is VERY dark, vaulted ceiling, and on one wall the paneling goes half way up the wall. I used a deep gold tone color on the ceiling.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 14, 2006
11:09 AM

Post #2722216

Is there a darker color after Sante Fe on the color strip? I wouldn't do white either.
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

September 14, 2006
12:34 PM

Post #2722513

I'd go with a lighter tone of the upper wall color. Two steps up on the color strip. You need to lighten things up.
I'm not a big fan of colored ceilings, makes the room feel smaller and darker. Maybe I'm just old-fashioned. lol
Andy P
jadeliz
Gillespie, IL

September 14, 2006
12:49 PM

Post #2722566

I don't often use color on the ceiling, but this room also has heavy dark walnut beams, and I just did not care for the white with the dark beams and walls. There is very little light in this room, and it does feel a bit like a cave, however I tend to be more comfortable with dark colors. The advice about using the same color sounds good, and I am assuming you mean a lighter shade of the same color. Thanks again for the assistance.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 14, 2006
9:44 PM

Post #2724289

See now, Andy's way is backwards to me. I'd want the darker color on the bottom. I'm a huge fan of colored ceilings. Most are done in the same color as my walls, none white. I also like to use 2 shades darker (yes of the same color or on the color strip) for certain rooms. It never seems small or dark to me. In one room long ago, I went from a deep sage green with ceilings that color, to yellow with off white ceilings. It didn't make a difference. The room was still the same, but warmer with the sage. So I painted it all Navy. Then my niece wanted her room the same. Still wasn't dark and dreary like people claim. Everybody's different. Just my .02 worth.
Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

September 14, 2006
10:10 PM

Post #2724379

I prefer the darker tone on the lower sections too but the room is already dark and the only areas left to be painted are down below. As I understand it.
Andy P
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 14, 2006
10:18 PM

Post #2724413

Only time I've seen lighter colors below is when it's something like white beadboard on the bottom half with another color painted above it so I'm not sure how it'll look, but I agree that you wouldn't want to put an even darker shade on the already dark wall. Personally I would probably pull off the panelling if possible and paint the rest of the wall the same color as the top, but that may be too much effort!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 14, 2006
10:46 PM

Post #2724522

The paneling could be painted the same as the rest of wall. If there's a chair rail, perhaps painting it in a complimentary color to your room. BTW, don't ever come to my house! My gosh, you'd think I lived in a cave, but I love it. I'm also joking btw...:o)

Andy, I guess you wouldn't like my bathroom with the 3 tan walls and my wall that goes up into the ceiling (no break) is painted navy...I've attached a picture below. I think, and thankfully so does my husband, that it's anything but dark...again, like the saying, beauty is in the eye of the beholder...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 14, 2006
10:47 PM

Post #2724526

Here's looking the other way...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

Sarahskeeper
Brockton, MA
(Zone 6a)

September 15, 2006
10:33 AM

Post #2726050

Terry, That looks great. It's medium, not dark. The white appliances and woodwork brighten it up a notch, too.
Jade stated her room was "VERY dark", what other painting option does she have than to paint the lower section a lighter color. She could change the furniture, floor or window treatments but that is an other story.
This is a dark half bath I did. Sponge painting in a Cascade style. Light blue over navy with a dark vanity. The room has white woodwork and ceiling. [HYPERLINK@andysfantasyfinishes.com]
I get claustrophobic in there but the customer loved it. To each his/her own.
Andy P
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 5b)

September 15, 2006
9:46 PM

Post #2727963

Nice job Andy!! I know what you mean about it being claustrophobic. I got that way just looking at the pic, but it was still a nice paint job and reminded me of the ocean.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 15, 2006
10:01 PM

Post #2727992

Thanks Andy. I have had many people tell me it's dark, regardless of the white in there. I didn't have a choice in there with the woodwork, unless I wanted to rip it all out. But I do know what you're talking about. It is definitely to each their own. BTW, I love the room you linked. It's a little like a room I did before, mine having much more navy showing than yours. I wish I had a good picture of my living room. The wall and ceiling are painted Shallowford Red (I think that's the name, it's a BM historical color). My couch is cold, my leather chair is chocolate, and my furniture for the most part is red mahogany. The fireplace, which is actually a coal burning fireplace, is cast iron. It also has the wall color in splashes in the little tiles. I guess I'm just trying to get across my own opinion in that dark colors don't make me claustrophobic, they make me feel warm and welcomed. Make sense? I'm also in no way arguing with you...

Is there an option where she changes the color in that she puts the dark one on the bottom and a lighter one on top? Jade? I'm kidding. If you think the room is dark, then yes, I'd do the lighter color on the bottom.
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 5b)

September 16, 2006
9:02 PM

Post #2730797

I like dark colors too but if they are really dark and in a small room then sometimes they can make me feel claustrophobic. But if done right then it can make a room feel nice and cozy. But like you said it's all in the eye of the beholder.
jadeliz
Gillespie, IL

September 20, 2006
1:13 PM

Post #2742566

You all have been very helpful, however I am more than a little nervous about painting the paneling in this room. The room is odd to say the least, and I am worried now that painting the paneling could be a disaster. One wall is drywall with a large window type opening into the garden room, another wall is floor to ceililng bookcase (used for teapot collection) a third wall is paneling half way up the wall, and the another wall is paneling only on the lower quarter. Ceiling has dark walnut beams, and the room is used as an office with dark furniture, it is also the entry from the front of the house.

Now for the question; Is there anything besides Liquid Gold or Panel Magic that would breath new life into the OLD walnut paneling? I am really between a rock and a hard place, and would appreciate your input.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 20, 2006
7:09 PM

Post #2743550

My parents had a rental house years back, that had paneling in the front sunroom. It was dull and just needed something. I lightly sanded it and applied a few coats of polyurethane to it. This wasn't real wood, but the thin fake wood paneling. It looked a lot better after I did that. Perhaps something like that would work?
gloriabythelake
Buffalo, NY
(Zone 6a)

September 28, 2006
12:56 PM

Post #2766732

Hi all, I've painted over panelling. I have used liner paper then painted, & I've also primed the panelling w/o mudding the grooves then painted. Both techniques worked well. Also, after reading the posts re: dark colors...sometimes, especially in a small room dark colors can give the illusion that the room is bigger. Also, if the walls are perfectly smooth...not a flaw anywhere, a deep, dark, rich color in a glossy finish can look absolutely striking. IMHO Especially in a small room. (eg. 1/2 bath, powder room) I look at it this way, its only paint. I say go for it!

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