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Electrical and Lighting: Electric Troubleshooting

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Forum: Electrical and LightingReplies: 5, Views: 30
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SalemSunshine
Salem, OR
(Zone 8a)

February 28, 2006
10:46 PM

Post #2078444

I have a 100 year old house with much of the original knob and tube wiring.

In my stairwell, I have a chandelier, and a hall light that were controlled by the same two switches, one upstairs, and one downstairs.

The chandelier quit turning on. I have checked all of the bulbs, and have kind of wiggled the fixture to see if there was loose wiring. I got nothing.

Is there anything I can do without having to call in an electrician?
paulgrow
Allen Park, MI
(Zone 6a)

March 1, 2006
8:00 PM

Post #2080330

If you have a voltage tester check to see if you have power at both switches, if so you probably have a defective switch.

if not you should check your fuses, or breakers.

If those are ok you should get an electrican to troubleshoot the problem.

Paul
Skapare
Wheeling, WV

March 3, 2006
6:17 PM

Post #2084586

If the hall light does come on OK, this is not a case of a blown fuse or tripped breaker. I'm sure you have checked for bad bulbs. I have blown 3 bulbs simultaneously in the same fixture before, so even if the chandelier has multiple bulbs, I would check them. It is also possible that it could be series wired, such as 10 bulbs at 12 volts each on a 120 volt circuit, in which just one bulb out turns everything off.

If everything is normal, the issue is likely a loose wire or burned through wire in the box or wherever the chandelier is mounted. It could also be in another box that would lead to the chandelier, so just about anything goes. The chandelier could be tapped at either switch, or even at the hall light.

There are some non-contact voltage probe testers available in most hardware and home supply stores. If you don't have one, you should get one. It can be used to test if you have power at the chandelier, especially near where it mounts in the ceiling.

This message was edited Mar 3, 2006 6:37 PM
oldgrowth
Holland, NY
(Zone 5a)

March 4, 2006
11:25 PM

Post #2087488

Just as a precaution, the non-contact voltage tester has a couple of shortcommings. If the neutral wire has been interrupted for some reason (broken, burned, lose connection), you will still find power at the fixture but you do not have a complete circuit. The bulb will not light. Also, taps or splices in knob and tube systems were often made in between the joists. The wires were wrapped around and soldered. The fault could be anywhere. If the suggestions above do not resolve the problem, call a licensed electrical contractor. You may have a serious condition that needs to be addressed, or if may be something simple. But remember, a lose connection means arching, heating, and eventually fire. So do not treat this matter lightly.
golddog
Western, PA
(Zone 6a)

March 22, 2006
11:47 PM

Post #2132304

Many times the problem can be found where there are wire connections. As electricity is turned on and off, the wires will move ever so slightly. After a while, with a loose connection, they move to a point where there is a disconnect. Especially old work. Lets us know what happened.
playintennis527
Las Vegas, NV

March 24, 2006
12:44 AM

Post #2135130

If your house is that old... I would bet the farm... and the cows to... one of your "3-way" switches has died. Annnd again... because of the age of the house, if your gonna go to home depot to get one, splurge and get both, and replace both. Just pay attention to the way they are wired. I would be very surprised if the problem were something else besides one of the switches.

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