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My Frigidaire Gallery Front Load Washing machine goes through the wash cycle fine, filling with water, agitating(turning to wash clothes), but it does not do the fast spin and does not drain the water. I can here the machine clicking through when the spin should occur. Put in a light load, 2 t-shirts and a shirt, same thing. The model # FWT4496F52 Serial # XC00515877. Took the back off and the belt is fine and the barrel turns when manually turned. What can be the problem?
I took the big hose in back of the pump off, cleaned it out ($3 worth of coins, safety pins, etc.), I felt inside the pump with my fingers, didn't feel anything, put the hose back on, plugged it in, no luck. I can hear the pump trying to suction and it is getting warm. The machine is clicking through the cycles. Did I take the correct hose off? What should my next step be? Thank you.
If you got three bucks worth of change, you definitely got the right hose. It's possible the pump was damaged, or there's more stuff in it. That link shows some more possibilities if you scroll down. There are some really together parts places that will let you return stuff if it doesn't help you.
One other thing, after you cleaned out the hose, did you unplug the washer, then plug it back in, and see if it would 're-set'?
That link also has places you can post with genuine experts answering your questions, but you might have to contribute to their beer fund. You already have $3... ;)
I did unplug it and plug it in again. No Luck, is there a reset button? I have posted on Samuri's website. Thank you so much for your time! I will contribute my loose change to his beer fund.
In waitiing for Samurai to give an answer, I was thinking of what you said about the coat hanger... I tried it on the hose that drains to the drain, I put it up from the pump side and the hanger got stuck. Finally got it out. Then I though to go to the other side of the hose (going into the drain) and blow in it. Should the air pass through? It doesn't, not one bit. Tried water, also. nothing. I am on to something?
Dearest Claypa!!! It worked!!! Took the drain hose off, forced water through it with a water hose, unclogged the stinky mess, hooked it back up and it works!!!!!!!!! It spins and drains! Thank you so much!!! Didn't cost a cent, just my time wading in ucky water to figure it out and made $3!
Probably should have warned you about water going everywhere... Glad I could help!
In the future, make sure your pockets are empty!! But you learned that the hard way, I guess ;)
So I have been reading your suggestiong. I unhooked the fat pump and found some change at the bottom. The machine is still not working so I'm sure it's the draining hose. How do you get the red clamps off, it seems immposible. Also, is there anyway to prevent the water from spilling everywhere?
You have to pinch together the little horns on the clamp. Use pliers, and pull the hose and the clamp off together. Use bowls or scrap containers to catch the water, and keep some towels handy.
Wow!
This old thread helped me to get my front loading Frigidaire washer up and running again.
It would not drain and made some clicking noises.
1 - I drained most of the standing water from inside the washer.
2 - I took the bottom panel off by reading my manual and finding the location of two screws located near the bottom.
3 - I removed the big rubber hose/trap by pinching the clamp and pulling it off.
4 - Cleared out the maternity bra pad that was blocking the passage to the tiny white plastic pump.
5 - Put it all back together.
6 - Smiled.
7 - Registered at davesgarden.com to post this.
Thank you!
This old post helped me out and saved me some $$$.
I registerd because I had the same exact problem, fridgedare frontloader won't drain or spin. Read the above tread. Guess what, it was hard getting those heavy duty clamps off the hoses. And shouving the washer on its side to go in the bottom. Some contortionist ability required. 5 Quarters, 10 dimes, 2 Nickles, 5 pennies, one chain necklace, 2 paper clips, lots of lifting, bending, showing, Waa Laa! Works Great!!!!! Thank you so much!
Another happy user of this site! Thank you so much for the tip on how to get my machine spinning again! I made $10.48($3.48 in coins and $7 in bills!).
And I use a jelly roll pan(it looks like a cookie sheet with shallow sides all around) under the hoses to catch the water and my wet/dry vac to empty the pan.
Thanks again!
Be sure to really inspect the big black rubber hose located inside the machine.
You have to remove the back panel to access that hose.
If possible, place the washer on its side.
Ths will make it much, much easier to access the pump, hoses, etc.
The hose I'm referring to has 3 connections/openings:
One goes to the pump (located on the floor of the machine)
The remaining 2 connections/openings (one large, one small) connect to the upper interior of the machine.
There are 3 small green spring clamps, and one larger silver wire screw clamp.
You have to remove all of those spring clamps and you have to remove that big black hose.
There's a plastic filter inside of that big hose...it's located in the 'accordion' part of that hose.
My washer had a detergent/fabric softener 'napkin' jammed inside of that big black rubber hose.
It was blocking the exhaust flow of the discharge water.
If I remember correctly, the error message was E21...
To remove the pump, just remove the screw on the left of the pump (if machine is viewed from behind).
You can then swivel the pump towards you and remove it.
There is a second screw (on the right of the pump), but the pump has a slot that allows you to slide the pump back into it and rotate the pump back into position.
I put everything back together and now the washer is working fine!
Grab a camera and take a few pix before you disconnect anything.
...and go to an auto parts store and buy a few automotive hose clamps.
To All
We had this exact same issue. We also had the purex 3 in one sheets stuck in the plastic filter. Also had 35 cents stuck in valve. The green clamps were a pain to get off, but even harder to get on so I replaced them with screw clamps. As for the one screw clamp that was included with the washing machine, I re installed it. I re installed the washer and the washer leaked all over my floor. I took the washer out again and replaced the clamp with a new screwclamp that was wider, but had to hold the rubber and clamp all the way up against the back of the plastic piece in order to srew it on tight. It took way longer than I thought, but it is working fine now. We won't be using purex 3 in one sheets anymore
hottyson wrote:Wow!
This old thread helped me to get my front loading Frigidaire washer up and running again.
It would not drain and made some clicking noises.
1 - I drained most of the standing water from inside the washer.
2 - I took the bottom panel off by reading my manual and finding the location of two screws located near the bottom.
3 - I removed the big rubber hose/trap by pinching the clamp and pulling it off.
4 - Cleared out the maternity bra pad that was blocking the passage to the tiny white plastic pump.
5 - Put it all back together.
6 - Smiled.
7 - Registered at davesgarden.com to post this.
Thank you!
This old post helped me out and saved me some $$$.
This message was edited Aug 30, 2009 10:10 AM
This message was edited Aug 30, 2009 10:11 AM
Amazing... washer stopped working last night (Kenmore actually a Frigidaire 417). Didn't complete the wash, had water in the bottom and it clicked when I tried to drain. Same thing... a maternity bra pad, was stick in the drain pump.
Went through the same steps. Although it was tougher to prop the washer up and get the bottom square drive screws off for the panel than it was the spring clamp. Just used the Leatherman I had on me to get the clamp off, was tough to get back on, but didnt take more than a couple minutes.
my front load washer will drain but won't spin. it looks like the drum is off its track in front only - i think i can get it back on track if only i could manage to get at it. does anyone know how i can open the front panel to try and fix it myself?
Well, this was sort of a back-door fix for my washer. It's the stackable front loader and it wouldn't drain or spin. I followed the directions in this post and also found a few dollars in change in the rubber boot, cleaned that out and reinstalled. Took the back panel off the machine and cleaned out the drain hose, then, as I was putting everything back together, found that the green electrical plug to the drain pump was disconnected. That was probably the whole problem, but as the machine is 10 years old, it sure didn't hurt anything to clean it all out. Thanks for the help!
Read this thread and was able to fix our Frigidaire front loader, no parts needed and no paying labor for someone else to fix it! In fact, I found 47 cents in the filter, plus a lot of hair pins and goop! Thanks everyone!
A HUGE thanks to msmith40 for the helpful description and picture.
My machine wasn't draining and after taking off the hose and not finding a clog, I went back in and removed the part of the rubber hose that attaches to the pump. I am hardly mechanically inclined, and so rather than risk taking the whole thing off and not being able to get it back on, I inched the filter down until it poked out the bottom, and then used a small pair of needle-nosed pliers to pull out my wife's bikini 'cookie' and 28 cents, which were apparently lodged in there and clogging it up. I managed to put Humpty back together again, but reattaching that clamp is brutal. However, if I can do it, anyone can.
Thanks again to msmith40 for saving me a service call and way too much money. I'm up 28 cents, actually...
LOL, Claypa have you counted all of the new members you created by helping on this thread? All you do is hold your cursor on their names in the left column and see when they joined and when they posted.
Well, the good news is that I followed all these marvelous, detailed steps to find that nothing was clogging my hoses or boot hose (I think that's the name of the bag black internal hose with the "accordion" feature--btw, mine did NOT have a filter inside of it). The bad news is that it still does not do the final spin. After lots of googling and other research, I came to find a way to run a comprehensive diagnostics test, that indicated I had error E47. Ironically, in running the test, the hi-speed final test ran like a dream, meaning that the diagnostic test overrides whatever "errors" are happening, i.e., control board problem or faulty door lock assembly, but I can at least get the washing done by running the last phase of the diagnostic test at the very end, and getting the hi-speed spin. Now, to figure out exactly what is wrong, I need to "remove door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC." I am NOT Mr. Fix-It and was proud to be able to have gotten through the steps above, but I don't even know what to use to test the resistance of the PTC, which I don't know what it is either. And depending on what the reading is, I either have a defective door lock assembly or a defective control board. I have no idea where these things are, or where I would go to buy them. We have a home protection plan--of course the Frigidaire extended warranty ended days before this problem happened--so I am hoping that plan will cover. I would love to finish this job myself, but unless I can find schematics and great simple instructions and photos like you folks have so nicely provided (this is my first visit and post), then I think I may have to shell out to have it fixed by a "pro." At least I have done most of the work for hi/her.
Anyway, if anyone reads this and has any bright ideas, please let me know And I am a big amateur gardener, so I REALLY look forward to getting into that part of the site as well.
Fiasco wrote:Well, the good news is that I followed all these marvelous, detailed steps to find that nothing was clogging my hoses or boot hose (I think that's the name of the bag black internal hose with the "accordion" feature--btw, mine did NOT have a filter inside of it). The bad news is that it still does not do the final spin. After lots of googling and other research, I came to find a way to run a comprehensive diagnostics test, that indicated I had error E47. Ironically, in running the test, the hi-speed final test ran like a dream, meaning that the diagnostic test overrides whatever "errors" are happening, i.e., control board problem or faulty door lock assembly, but I can at least get the washing done by running the last phase of the diagnostic test at the very end, and getting the hi-speed spin. Now, to figure out exactly what is wrong, I need to "remove door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC." I am NOT Mr. Fix-It and was proud to be able to have gotten through the steps above, but I don't even know what to use to test the resistance of the PTC, which I don't know what it is either. And depending on what the reading is, I either have a defective door lock assembly or a defective control board. I have no idea where these things are, or where I would go to buy them. We have a home protection plan--of course the Frigidaire extended warranty ended days before this problem happened--so I am hoping that plan will cover. I would love to finish this job myself, but unless I can find schematics and great simple instructions and photos like you folks have so nicely provided (this is my first visit and post), then I think I may have to shell out to have it fixed by a "pro." At least I have done most of the work for hi/her.
Anyway, if anyone reads this and has any bright ideas, please let me know And I am a big amateur gardener, so I REALLY look forward to getting into that part of the site as well.
Peace, etc.
A
Hello, I have the same issue and it shuts off with 7 minutes remaining and not final spin. Did you ever figure it out? Can you please tell me how to do the diagnostic that you spoke of? Thanks
Help! I was having a problem most like everyone here except i was getting error message e23(drain pump relay failed) and now i dont knwo what to do can you help me?
Just finished my DIY repair to my wife's Frigidaire frontloading washer - the washer would not drain and spin out the clothes. Solution: from reading the numerous posts I was able to remove the back of the washer panel and remove the two hoses on either side of the pump that drains the washer and low and behold, out comes 2 pennies, a bobby pin, and the real culprit was a metal bra underwire, wedged in the pump impeller. We had already called the repairman, but were able to cancel him, since he couldn't come out for 4 more days, ta-da! Love this site! Thanks Dave!
My front loading washer, Frigidaire Gallery model: GLTR1670AS1, wont spin. At first it would add water and drain but not spin. Then I called Frigidaire and was told to unplug it for 10-15 minutes to reset the control panel. I did and now it wont do anything but make a very low buzzing sound. The Wash or Rinse and Door Lock lights will come on but no spinning. Also the door doesnt always open even after the door lock light is off. So I am wondering if the above tip will work for me before I shell out $70 for a service call? I am pretty mechanically-inclined if given good instrutions and I have a very strong 17y/o to assist with hard to reinstall clamps...any help would be appreciated so I can get it working this weekend.
Thanks for the feed. I found bobby pins and $4.00 in quarters, plus a ton of GOOP (yuk). The hardest part with the clamps was getting them back on. we put the washer on its side and then took it apart. we laid it on its left side and then took it apart. we then lifted the machine with the tubes unattaced to let the water drain. If you do this next to the washer drain it should drain to it if the floor drain is at a lower spot. have towels ready of course. I took about 5 minutes to take the accordian hose out and remove the filter and clean it out. it took 25 minutes putting the clamps back on. car hose clamps probably would have been a faster/easier solution but I got in nonetheless. Ran the washer w/o clothes twice with lots bleach and detergent to remove any mildew or mold, using a HOT cycle anyway.
Just wanted to say thanks for this thread! The information here helped me with my Frigidaire Gallery Frontloader washing machine. The machine was not draining and spinning, just like everyone else has reported. Followed the instructions and low and behold, a Purex 3 in 1 sheet was stuck in the black hose plus dog fur (yuck!). Those clamps are HARD to get on and off...make sure that you have a good set of needle nose pliers to be able to remove those things! It also helps in you can get the washer to an area that you have plenty of room to take apart the machine...our washer in dryer is in a small area next to the kitchen with no moving room, so we took the washer outside to work on it. My hubby had the bright idea to to a test rinse and spin outside to make sure that we had gotten everything out (worked like a charm) before dragging the machine back in. That way most of the water was spilled outside...evaporation took up clean up for us. :)
What do you check when the washer will drain but theres no final spin. The washer works fine for washing, spins and washes but with no final spin clothes are ringing wet. need the final spin to get them ready for the dryer. Any suggestions? should I check the hose even if the washer is draining?
Thanks this also worked for my Frigidaire front loader. My main drain hose was plugged not allowing the pump to drain the washer. Very easy fix. Took of the lower front panel (two screws) removed the red hose clamp from the drain hose to the white drain pump and had my son blow from the drain hose end towards the washer while I used a metal clothes hanger to dislodge the debris till it came clear. Reclamped the hose and badda bing badda boom it works like new again. Thanks a million
THANK YOU! I washed the dog's rug this morning, came home from coffee and found that the backing had come off and clogged up the drain hose in our front loading washer. I quickly googled for help and your post was there, again MUCH appreciated! We did collect quite a bit of change, and only spent an hour or so getting everything running again. My husband used the wet/dry vac and lots of towels to resolve the water issue. The laundry room looks so clean afterwards too!
Hello, I have the same issue and it shuts off with 7 minutes remaining and not final spin. Did you ever figure it out? Can you please tell me how to do the diagnostic that you spoke of? Thanks
I had a repair guy out and he said it was the control board and would cost $420. We declined but after some searching found the board for $135 and changed it myself. Still have same problem, drains but will not go into spin with about 7 minutes left. Only difference is now, when it shuts off at the 7 minute mark, it beeps as if wash is done. Before changing board, it just shut off. Help1
Frigidaire front loader (approx 12 years old) - Had similar symptoms to many of these posters - wouldn't do final spin, six inches of water still in the drum - I opened it up, popped off all the hoses, cleaned out the 'boot' by the impeller of three guitar picks and a quarter, blew out the main drain hose with the garden hose - no large obstructions anywhere, but it appears to be working now. Just so you know, the drain hose only works in one direction, so don't be fooled into thinking there's a big blockage in it if water/air doesn't go both ways. So far so good, thanks for the forum.
BTW, I should mention this wasn't a breeze of a job - it took hours between everything - but I didn't pay the local appliance shark whom I don't trust the $125 service call, so I feel I'm far ahead.
And don't forget to UNPLUG the washer!
Had the same issue with my washer.Husband thought we had to get a new one but i did some looking and found this forum.Thanks to you all,I had my husband read everyones replys and he had it fixed in no time.Same problem as stated by everyone.Had the underwire from a bra in the hose, removed it and it's working great now.
This info was excellent!! Glad to see its been up for so many years. The only thing I would like to add is to try to empty any water in the washer with a bucket and expect a huge mess if your washer has water. Also be careful inside, my hisband slice his hand many times just on the outside panel. I used my carpet cleaner to suck what was stuck in the big black hose way inside the washer. I didnt find anything but gunck :( Thank you once again and if we didnt have the internet all of us would of had to call the plumber for $90/hr, so a big thank you to google!!
Bless you for this info! I was on my way to a really bad day thinking the washer was dying when I found this site. It was not spinning or draining and making a clicking/parts breaking type of noise. I took off the front panel (2 sheet metal screws under the front, kinda tricky to get to without tilting the machine up) and I just unscrewed the screw that is at the top of the black rubber boot on the little metal tension type fastener. I slipped the boot down a bit and squeezed my fingers in til I felt the plastic filter. WATCH OUT FOR POKEY THINGS THAT ARE LIKELY IN THERE. I got a straight pin stuck in my finger! OUCH! I removed the filter and to my surprise found 2 underwires, some change, a small nail and the above mentioned straight pin. Took those all out, put the filter back in, stuck the boot back where it came from, and tightened the screw clamp. Started a load of laundry and we were good to go. Spun, drained, no noise. Other than the injury, the whole procedure was relatively easy. About 20 minutes, and I am just a tomboy type, no appliance aptitude here. VERY glad I came across this info. I'll attach a pic of the boot I am talking about. Thank you!
I also registered to say thanks. This was SO helpful.
We unhooked the fat hose (into the pump), but didn't find anything just feeling around inside the pump with a finger. We almost gave up, but then I took off the smaller hose (leaving the pump) and took the whole pump out and shook it. Out fell a nickel!
One thing I found very helpful was a locking wrench to hold the hose clips open while I slid the hoses off the pump.
I also registered just to say thank you! Our Frigidaire front loading washing machine is just a year old and it began to not drain- thus not be able to do a final spin because of the resistance of all the water I assume. Anyways, after finding this article I used a "Flylady" (google her) principle of "Do it Now" and decided that I would at least try to fix the problem before having my husband look at it. He has been working lots of long hours and beings that we have 5 young kids (ages 5-9) we really needed the washing machine.
Using a cup, I emptied the wash basin of all extra water. I pulled off the lower panel and slowly unclamped the big, black, accordion looking hose (left green clamps still attached so I would not have to deal with them later). *Note: water starts to drain out so have bowls and a pitcher handy. :) Using a flashlight, I dug my finger down into the remaining slimy, gross water (I got used to it though- at least it smelled clean! Lol). I dug out tons of stuff that was not only plugging up the piece that acts as strainer, but it was obviously over filled! After digging out enough stuff I could finally pry out the white "strainer" tube looking thing, that fits inside the black, accordian tube. We had over $3 in change, stickers, a Hair barrette, Lego pieces, safety pin, rubber bands, hair rubber bands, and a huge clump of slimy "lint", plus many other things. And I thought we were doing so well at emptying our pockets because I rarely found any extra "things" in the washing machine! Lol.
I want to encourage everyone to try fixing your machine yourself before calling a repairman for this problem. I usually ask my husband to fix anything like this, but I am so proud of myself for doing all by myself! It was much easier than I thought it would be- although time consuming. It was actually kinda fun too! I'm kind of excited for next year to roll around and our machine to be clogged again (I just know it will happen because our kids wash their own clothes). When it clogs I can just jump in and teach my husband how to fix it! Go me! :)
Signed, a Stay at Home Mom
Another Mom here... I fixed the broken door lock assembly by myself last year and now I joyfully found this thread to help with the drain clog. I found a quarter and a dime, plus a bra pad from a bathing suit. Now to get those green clamps back on. I think my husband is going to go with the hose clamp alternative. Thank you everyone for the help. Gotta go wash a load of wet towels...
Happy Mom
Hi, I too have the same problem mentioned in the above thread. My washer (a Frigidaire front loader – model FTF530FS0) won’t do the fast spin. I’ve checked the hoses and all is clear and the pump pumps the water out just fine. I’ve replaced the door lock mechanism and the spin control unit. Does anyone have any other ideas? I was hopeful it would be one of the three things I’ve tried and in reading this and other posts these are the likely candidates for this issue. I don’t want to call a technician and have already spent too much money on parts I didn’t needed. If you’ve had this problem and the solution was something other than the three things mentioned I’d love to hear your solution.
ths21: If you called a service tech, you would not have spent money on parts you did not need. Who replaced the door lock mechanism? Doesn't your machine have fault codes?
To all: since you noticed a common thread of junk in the pump, clean out those pockets and make a habit of using net bags in your washer. They are inexpensive and keep things out of the pump, especially thongs and baby socks.
drdivine wrote:BTW, I should mention this wasn't a breeze of a job - it took hours between everything - but I didn't pay the local appliance shark whom I don't trust the $125 service call, so I feel I'm far ahead.
And don't forget to UNPLUG the washer!
Technicians are paid for the service they provide, their know-how, the cost of running a business and their constant training. The cost of maintaining a phone and yellow pages, website, insurance, stock and vehicle are constant and rising, just like every other business. If you do not like your servicer, get someone else, and do some price shopping. You cannot expect a professional to work free, and it is extremely insulting to expect it. If you buy a part and it is broken or goes bad quickly, you remove it and return it. If the tech receives a bad part or it goes bad under warranty, he/she takes care of it with a smile. It is not a fun job to stick your hands in other people's smelly water, to bring special equipment to keep floors from getting ruined or to be insulted. You should try to service a dryer stacked above a washer in a small bathroom, next to the toilet, with no room to move around.
You would have been ahead of the game for your time and trouble had the stuff not gone through the wash in the first place, and glad you were able to get the job done. As you say, it is no breeze, and most people don't want to do it at all. Some people unscrew things in the wrong places and completely ruin their machines. When they call for service, they neglect to mention that the machine is in pieces and don't understand why it is so expensive to replace a simple item.
Hello, I have the same issue and it shuts off with 7 minutes remaining and not final spin. Did you ever figure it out? Can you please tell me how to do the diagnostic that you spoke of? Thanks
My wife told me that the washer wasn't draining.
My daughter and I performed the "clean the drain boot" trick described above as we have many times before.
Only this time it was empty.
This has happened so many times in the past, I didn't even bother to check if the machine was draining.
Turns out it was draining, but not spinning.
Using the diagnostic tests (link above) I got the short spin, ending in E47 error code.
I removed the door latch by easing away the rubber seal, removing the two screws that held the latch,
and removing the three wire connectors.
Googling around it sounded like the wax motor was a common failure.
I decided to replace the wax motor itself ($10) rather than the entire latch mechanism ($50).
The old wax motor did get warm (suggesting it wasn't broken) but its resistance was very low (10s of ohms rather than around 1000). FYI: the wax motor heats wax, which pushes a plunger, which drives an electrical contact, which charges a coil, which moves the mechanical lock into place. The latch comes apart by lifting a couple tabs and easing it apart. The wax motor can be eased from the latch with a little careful force.
After replacing the wax motor (with whatever maytag part my appliance parts place had), reassembling the door latch, reconnecting the wires, screwing it back into place, restoring the door seal, and running the diagnostic test...
No error code and runs full cycle!
I retrieved an entire sock from the filter... I don't even know how it got down there.
Now am listening for the machine to cycle through and hoping none of the hoses I reattached explode off.
We have been maintaining our front loader for the last few years have had to have our repairman come out once. Received an E20 error code and noticed not draining. Googled the code (easier than looking for the book) Husband went in cleaned out the drain, a pieces of cloth and some coins. Gave it a test run still not draining. He went back in pulled a toy block out of the pump impeller. Again still not working is there something else we are missing? He seems to think drain pump has gone bad. Does anyone know if this happens? If so what are we looking at? I do not really have a problem calling as a last resort, however if it is something he can do a little more quickly (scheduling issue and availability) It helps me out. If anyone else knows a little more it would be received with much gratitude. Thank you
Of course the pumps go bad, and most are expensive to replace. They have motorized assemblies and are generally specific for each model. We don't stock more than one or two because they are too pricey to leave on the shelf. When you clean out the pump, you have an idea why it broke, but cleaning it out does not necessarily fix it.
Thanks Cathy, do you know if there is a way to actually test the pump? I figure I am going to have to get my guy out here but we always have problem getting together his nonavailability verses ours LOL . I am trying to be resourceful because for the last 3 years either right before Christmas or right after I am repairing either the washer or dryer and thing is we have only had them 7 years a little frustrating. Early January it was the door latch on the washer and the December before that it was a rubber seal and plastic ring on the dryer. I really love the set we had been married for 10 plus years and always had a Frankenstein washer and dryer either second hand or hand me down. So this was our "first new set", so it is a little upsetting. because after this repair I think I will be about 100.00 shy of having already purchased a new washer. Keep in mind I did my research on what brand/model but I guess they were on the newer side and there wasn't much out there on them, now that people have had them awhile they can post the good and bad on the models more. Again I appreciate your assistance on this or anyone else.
If I can give you a few words of advice, don't self clean your oven before a holiday or before a big dinner. Clean it by hand if you must.
Now, regarding laundry (and other appliances). Most people are quick to complain/report/gripe about problems than the handful of people who praise or give positive feedback. It is usually about 95 to 1 on the negative feedback side. Some people have things that break all the time; others never. If you use the proper detergent for a front loading machine, don't overload, don't slam the door, etc., you will have better service. If you do the laundry yourself (instead of the housekeeper), you have a better chance of fewer repairs. Just as the owner has to respect the needs of the car, the owner has to respect the needs of the appliances.
That was a broad statement, not necessarily referring to you, ppd1896. Keep in mind that the age of an appliance is not so important as the number of loads you run in a week. Try to wipe down anything that is wet in the washer or dryer. Wipe down the rubber between the tub and the frame after each load, and leave the door open occasionally if you can to let it dry out. Wipe up spills of liquid detergent. Keep the dryer dry. The extra moisture invites rust. If you see water on the floor, don't ignore it. It is coming from somewhere. Most times when we are called out for a leak, it becomes clear that the appliance has been leaking for quite while (includes refrigerators), so check down in the basement if your washer or dishwasher are on a higher floor. It generally has more to do with how alert you are and how quickly you can stop the problem.
What are the brands of your washer and dryer and what are the model numbers?
OMG thank you thank you thank you!! My washing machine was leaking all over the floor and the clothes were soaking wet ... I was dreading calling the landlord to come and fix it ... after reading all the posts I was able to take the front panel off and clean out the "boot" ... I only got 46 cents, 4 safey pins and and earring ... lots of smelly, slimy gooey stuff stuck in the coin catcher and stinky water ... but I didn't have to call the landlord and it's working perfectly ... now I can add appliance repair chick to my long list of "Jack of all trades, master of none" ... well actually I guess that would be "Jill of all trades" ... LOL
I am not taking what you are saying personally and you are right usage has all the impact and care of the product. I found my info we purchased the W and D in 10/2006 and started using them in 05/07( when our laundry room was finished) They are both Frigidaire the dryer model # is LEQ2152ESO it is the Balance dry system, moisture sensor, Heavy duty, interior drum light. The washer model # LTF 2940ES3 Easy loading, Super capacity, heavy duty tumble action. I wash on average a load a day. I will say that I take good care of my set because I agree with what you say about respecting the appliance also we worked very hard for what little we have so I am going to do whatever I can to make things last. When our repairman replaced the seal/ring on the dryer he himself said that it was a rather usual situation and he had never seen that happen before it was like the ring was defected because it ended up melting to the drum. The door lock is a common problem and he replaced that for us this year. I do not know what is considered heavy to medium use. I was just pointing out the timing of when it acts up on me (never around like tax refund time :)...) gets me frustrated. At this point we are back to getting an E20 code and the water is sill in the drum. If you know anymore on the pump or how to test it I would really appreciate it. I plan on making a call tomorrow as well. Thank you
I have to second Cathy's suggestion for never using the self cleaning feature on your oven before a holiday. LOL My repair person says the same thing. As a matter of fact, he told me if I want to prolong the life of my Dacor range I should never use the self clean. Bummer.
These appliances with so many electronics are not as handy as they seem.
What is the reason for not using the self-cleaning feature on your oven prior to a holiday or big dinner?
I have had my wall oven, Jenn Air for 16 years now and have not had any problems with it. I hate to say that 'cause it seems every time I do, the whatever I am talking about, goes out.
No. The techs who do lots of oven repairs say never. I just say don't do it before your event because there is not enough time to repair it for holiday cooking/company. I have been on repairs where oven latches stay locked and it is next to impossible to open them. An in-wall double oven is sometimes the worst. It is not that the oven won't work; just that you cannot open the door. It happens a lot. A replacement latch is expensive, but the labor involved can be a few hundred dollars for a wall oven that has to be pulled.
If you considered how hot (1000 degrees F) the oven gets when cleaning and consider that the safety system could fail and the potential damage with a failure, you would never clean on an auto cycle again. A soiled oven seldom makes much of a difference when cooking. An oven that doesn't heat any more makes a big difference. It is generally the safety features that actually cut off when the over overheats. There are all kinds of microswitches that can break, not to mention that a few a user caused by forcing.
Sounds like something I would replace (the oven) instead. LOL, mine is old enough I might just do it. I do have a double oven, but the one on top is so high I haven't hardly used it. And I am so sorry, because that is the one with the convection in it. I love that feature, but I can't reach it.
This is the second time I have found this thread because my Frigidaire washer would not spin, the first time it was the stuff stuck in the drain pump area and it was easliy corrected. This time i was getting an error 47 and it ended up being the "wax motor" but its not made of wax as far as I can tell, its a hard plastic. The appliance parts house wanted to sell me the whole door lock mechanism which was totally unnecessary since it was just the solenoid looking thing. The whole lock mechanism was anywhere from $90 - $129 and I bought this thing for $18 plus shipping.
OK I am in dire straits now. I have cleaned out the hoses frona dn back. I have replaced the clamps with easier to use belt clapmp from the auto parts store for $2.99. EVerything is connected correctly but I have noticed that the washer goes through a normal wash cycle fine but as soon as it goes to the final rince ans spin it just sits there. What can I check to see if something needs to be replaced to make it spin?
I'm not a repairman, but just curious whether it tries to spin? If it does, it might be a new belt? If not, maybe a timer? Years ago my dad who was a do it yourselfer, told me that sometimes when things like that don't work, to just turn the timer all the way around a couple of times and it might get it in sinc. Depending on what is wrong, it might work.
I am at about the same point as Walstong, except I've already ordered a new washer. I'd like someone to explain how the final cycle alone is affected by bad components? Is the spin cycle the only one that uses the belt? Is the spin cycle the only cycle that drains? Mine was clogged and filthy as well, so when I try it now, it drains much better...as I suspected from clearing it, but it still does not spin. What's so special about the final spin as opposed to the others?
You have to provide more info if you want an answer. There is no proper answer to a vague question. Styles are different; brands are different; motor speeds are different.
My front load washer stopped draining. After my husband telling me he was not going to pay to have it fixed and having to wash clothes at my parents house for three weeks, I decided to google how to fix it. I came across this page and...I FIXED IT!!! The hose clamps where actually really easy to slip off and on the drain hose. I just took a pair of plyers and squeezed the two ends together to loosen it so it could easily slide up and down the hose. No need to remove the clamp at all. Found my husbands sock in the drain pipe...removed it and BAM...it drained all the water out of the drum! Thanks to Daves Garden and this thread, I realized, I don't have to depend on a man to get things done!
our frigidaire front loader washer will not release the liquid when its supposed to. Instead it fills with water mixes with fabric softner thes overflows.MESSSY!!!!!
Lili, use your head. Add the detergent after you add the laundry. Make sure you use "HE" detergent and don't use too much. Use a dryer sheet for fabric softener. It costs too much to fix. How old is this washer?
I too have found this line of information very helpful BUT... we cannot get the main hose back on with out it leaking on the next cycle. We have used all of the original parts and the rubber is not dry rotted or anything. Putting it back together the same way it came apart isn't working without the leaking.
Please, if there is any trick or suggestion as to what we are doing wrong. We have a repair guy coming in 3 days and I'd love to save the $75+ and be able to cancel him.
Hello,
I have a General Electric model WBVH6240FWW front loader and I'm low income and can't afford a repair man. My washer wiil not spin or move the clothes. It will drain the water and go through the cycles but not spin. Anyone that can give me advice it would be appreciated.
Sharon
Yet another registration to post a thanks. This is actually the second time I have had to use this info, the first time was a couple of years ago, not long after we started using the Purex 3-in-1 sheets (and right before we stopped!). I pulled two or three of those out of the filter basket IIRC, plus some change. This time it was 32 cents, a piece of scotch tape, a piece of electrical tape, a paper clip, a soft drink can tab, and one of my wife's or daughter's purple socks. I'm confident the sock did it, because the load right before the load that stopped went fine. THIS TIME, I read the whole thread and found out about laying the washer on it's side. Last time, I was almost standing on my head to get to the clamps. I'm still using the original clamps, so I guess I'm a glutton for punishment. Actually, I did the whole fix-it in less than half the time of the first time. Thanks for keeping this oldie-but-goodie thread available!
1) Lay the dryer on it's side and remove the bottom panel to troubleshoot the problem.
It's much easier to access those parts through the bottom than from the back.
2) Use vise-grips (locking pliers) when removing/re-attaching the spring clamps.
3) If you decide to replace the green spring clamps with auto-hose clamps, do not over-tighten them!
It's very easy to crack the pump nozzles if you over-tighten the auto-hose clamps.
Another registration to post a thank: My washer wouldn't drain after washing a throw rug, turned out the rubber backing came off in small sand like bits and completely plugged the filter basket. I followed most of the advice but laid the washer on it's back to have easy access to all the plumbing. One note, remember to check the inside of the base for all your tools before you screw the cover back on, I left a set of channel lock pliers inside and had to open it back up to get them out. Your advice saved me at least a $100 dollar service call. It was pretty darn easy to follow the directions and clean out everything. Only issue I had was getting the hose clamps off.
walstong wrote:It makes noises like it is going to spin but nothing moves.
i am in the same boat.
Frigidaire, model LTF2940EE0 front loader , does ALL cycles, but DOES NOT GO INTO FINAL SPIN on ANY modes. Spins back and fourth, tubles but NO FINAL SPIN. No error codes, just shuts off and beeps 'twice for done" usually when about 12 mins left
i took apart lower area (pump, hoses, etc) found NO debris that could obstruct the flow. It drains, but NO FINAL SPIN.
You said it drains, so it is not the pump. Considering that it spins at very high speed, I'd do some shopping. It's a very big repair. You might want to call a servicer.
cathy166 wrote:You said it drains, so it is not the pump. Considering that it spins at very high speed, I'd do some shopping. It's a very big repair. You might want to call a servicer.
got the problem. error code 47 E47
Description: Board thinks the door PTC circuit is OPEN... Solution: Remove the door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC. Shorted or open, defective door lock assembly. Reads around 1500 ohms, defective main control board.
so- 2 possibilites, either its the door lock assembly, or main control board.
do yo know which USUALLY is the one that breaks down??? how hard is it to install it??
thanks
Went thru all the steps above: Replaced door latch, checked pump: it will fill and drain, but still will not do high speed spin. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot further?
I am having the same issue. I took the drain plug off and cleaned it out. Had $4 worth of change, hair ties, bobby pins, and a bunch of smelling goop.
Well now it will go through everything but the final spin. It will get there and spin the clothes slow to the left, then to the right.. It does that 4 times, then when it hit the 7 minutes left mark it shuts off and beeps twice like it is finished.
Frigidare front load washer 2002 model GLTF1040AS0 - serial number XC30310348
Washer will not agitate or spin.
In each motion cycle, it will attempt to engage by giving a slight turn of the drum, then stop. Cycle will continue successfully through all add water, and drain functions, and time out normally as finished.
Moved washer into garage, put it up on blocks and leveled it, and hooked up a cold water feed after capping off the "hot" side.
Found broken shock absorber and replaced it, thinking that an out of balance shutoff may have occcurred.
No improvement.
Found no obstructions or debris in any discharge boots.
Drive belt is sound and has good tension.
No visible signs of burn or odor around motor, that might indicate that it is the problem.
I'm thinkin' this is pointing toward the spin control board ? ? ? maybe . . .
I have a good ohm meter and voltage tester, but don't know where to ohm the motor or spin control board, or what output levels to look for, so could use some info in that regard.
This has been a very good washer, but right now it's either gonna' get fixed, or become a target ! ; - )
Paul, why would you waste your time and money on a 10-year old washer? What is a spin control board? This washer has no boards. It is completely mechanical with the exception of the door lock and pump. A washer is good for only so many washes, not necessarily for a particular number of years, like a refrigerator, and it looks like you've beaten this to a pulp. One of the reasons you've gotten such good use from this machine is that it is mechanical. We service a lot of brands, and I don't believe there are any front loaders made and sold in this country that are not electronic from user interface to motor control. How many loads of laundry do you do in a week (when your washer works)?
By the way, when my lovely front-load washer had bearing problems, my techs would not repair it, so I had to get a replacement. Some repair jobs are horrible jobs and only invite more problems. It turns out they can eat fifty dollar bills in triplicate every time you turn around.
Cathy, this Frigidare model is not completely mechanical.
The "spin control board"- and that's the nomenclature written right on it - is currently part no. 134149220 - which replaced the original number of 134058400 .
The approximately 5" square circuit board is in its own housing, and mounts vertically on the deck just inside the back of the machine, against the left side when viewed from the back access panel. It is connected via two quick connect plugs. It shows a couple of discolorations, but nothing I would say is a "burn". But I know from experience with other boards, that the human eye doesn't always tell the story.
That's why I'd hoped to find out how it should ohm, along with the motor.
Washer has not been abused - it's been moved only one time since new, and does 2 to 3 tubs a week. Indoor laundry enclosure, no leaks or rust, regularly cleaned underneath. If changing a couple of components gets it back in the game, it seems well worth it to me.
The broken plastic shock absorber was fractured at the low end knuckle. They were inexpensive, so I put two new ones in. No big deal.
I figured in the beginning that if I could fix it for $200 - $300 in parts , it is worth it. - More than that, replace it.
As for the value of my time ? - That depends on who you talk to, but the popular opinion around here is that as long as "the old man" is busy with a project, he's out of everyone's hair !!
My son hopes it keeps me busy 'til the 4th of July - I'm really hoping to disappoint him.
Well, I may be a fool, but I just paid $350 to fix my 18 year old Jenn Aire. The machine cost me a lot of money to buy it because we live so far away from the city to get repairs that I wanted one that would last. This is the first time I have had anything done to it, not even a belt replaced. So, I feel I accomplished what I aimed for. The reason I fixed it, is because I don't think I would be able to buy a machine of that quality again anytime soon. Just trip charges to here run around $150, which was part of the $350.
The drum is flexible, either rubber or plastic so no rust, and it is all clean underneath, and looks good. I had the belt replaced while he had it apart too. But, other than that, I am hoping I made a wise decision.
Jnette, you are right that you cannot replace an 18-year-old washer or any other appliance for that matter. They are simply not making that unit any longer. In most cases they are not making any appliance as they did 20 years ago for several reasons, among them construction in Asia and CPSC legislation changes that now prohibit some of the things you loved. Since around 2000 washers (and dishwashers) are supposed to be water savers, and that carries itsown set of problems.
Paul, that part is more in the area of what we would call a motor controller. It is too expensive (for our customers) to put into a 10-year-old machine, and our experience is that it is not usually the only problem. However, if it keeps the ol' boy busy, have at it. There must be something else that needs fixing.
Thanks for your assurance Cathy. I had the repairman look to see where my machine was made and he said in New Mexico, USA. :0) Think he said by Whirlpool.
Jnette wrote:Well, I may be a fool, but I just paid $350 to fix my 18 year old Jenn Aire. The machine cost me a lot of money to buy it because we live so far away from the city to get repairs that I wanted one that would last. This is the first time I have had anything done to it, not even a belt replaced. So, I feel I accomplished what I aimed for. The reason I fixed it, is because I don't think I would be able to buy a machine of that quality again anytime soon. Just trip charges to here run around $150, which was part of the $350.
The drum is flexible, either rubber or plastic so no rust, and it is all clean underneath, and looks good. I had the belt replaced while he had it apart too. But, other than that, I am hoping I made a wise decision.
Jnette, NE Wa = SE Oregon !!
Just as Jnette spoke to, here in the forgotten high desert of South/Central/Eastern Oregon, the same is true. A long way from anywhere, when it comes to buying quality stuff, or having anything repaired. We love where we live, but due to the remoteness of it all, we make good things last as long as possible.
You can pay anywhere from $125 to $185 for the spin control board I referred to. I chose to pay $148 for ours, with a 30 day return guaranty that was valid even if it didn't solve the problem.
We'll see . . .
And Cathy, there's no shortage of either real or imagined projects to keep the "old man" busy here.- I.E. rifles that don't shoot straight anymore, computer hard drives gone haywire, busted stitching on saddles and horse tack, footballs that won't hold air.
After today's trip to the laundromat, I just want our antique washer to work once again !
Thanks so much everyone! I had the same issue where it would not drain or spin. I actually was having the DoorLock light come on and had to restart the drain/spin cycle to no avail. I finally was able to have it go through the final cycle and I had to manually drain the water.
Saved me time and money by following the steps of checking the drain hose and coin catcher underneath. I followed this video for my Frigidaire Gallery Series on how to take everything off: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/137108100/...
I hope this helps another person that goes through the same issues. Thanks!
Jnette wrote:Hey Boghots, I was born in Klamath Falls. Don't think I ever went back!! But, would love to some day. Good place to be from. Jeanette
Small world sometimes, isn't it ?
Klamath Falls is like so many small, rural towns in the western states. Not a lot of visible change from year to year. Lots of tradition, and pride in community. But lots of people from far away places come to live here too, so the culture changes and grows. Some for the better, some for the worse.
Next time you and your family head for California or other southern destination, take U.S. 97 south through central Oregon. Through Madras, Bend, and Klamath Falls. You'll be able to make a quick side trip to Crater Lake National Park. A sight you won't forget.
So you and yours button up, and get ready for the winter that is going to hit us soon !
boghots wrote:Cathy, this Frigidare model is not completely mechanical.
The "spin control board"- and that's the nomenclature written right on it - is currently part no. 134149220 - which replaced the original number of 134058400 .
The approximately 5" square circuit board is in its own housing, and mounts vertically on the deck just inside the back of the machine, against the left side when viewed from the back access panel. It is connected via two quick connect plugs. It shows a couple of discolorations, but nothing I would say is a "burn". But I know from experience with other boards, that the human eye doesn't always tell the story.
That's why I'd hoped to find out how it should ohm, along with the motor.
Washer has not been abused - it's been moved only one time since new, and does 2 to 3 tubs a week. Indoor laundry enclosure, no leaks or rust, regularly cleaned underneath. If changing a couple of components gets it back in the game, it seems well worth it to me.
The broken plastic shock absorber was fractured at the low end knuckle. They were inexpensive, so I put two new ones in. No big deal.
I figured in the beginning that if I could fix it for $200 - $300 in parts , it is worth it. - More than that, replace it.
As for the value of my time ? - That depends on who you talk to, but the popular opinion around here is that as long as "the old man" is busy with a project, he's out of everyone's hair !!
My son hopes it keeps me busy 'til the 4th of July - I'm really hoping to disappoint him.
Paul
New "spin control board" arrived yesterday from http://www.repairclinic.com . Installed this morning in about 5 minutes, and all agitation and spin functions are restored. It was $148 plus shipping; not the cheapest one available, but with a 365 day return priviledge if it was an unnecessary part. Fast service, and very satisfied. All predrilled holes matched perfectly. A cinch to install.
With the new shock absorber, spin control board, and shipping, we'll have spent about $185 in parts. - As mentioned above, my time was worth nothing !
So, Paul, how did you decide that was the problem? I guess from what you are saying, if the part wasn't needed you could return it. Even tho electrical? Most auto parts will not let electrical be returned.
One of my sons has used the repair clinic website with success like yours Paul. Sadly, my other son just bought a house with a Viking refrigerator and it has started to leak. Unfortunately, the site does not list this brand in their drop down menu. I suspect the costs for repairing a VIking might be prohibitive, it may be smarter for him to buy a new fridge.
Jnette wrote:So, Paul, how did you decide that was the problem? I guess from what you are saying, if the part wasn't needed you could return it. Even tho electrical? Most auto parts will not let electrical be returned.
Hi Jeanette,
The first visible sign of any mechanical problem, was the broken shock absorber.
But researching this forum and a couple of others that I passed through along the way, helped me make a best guess by process of elimination. Other's had described spin failures that were solved by removing debris, money, etc.
When I found no debris or obstructions in our machine, I started looking for other causes.
Right or wrong, I went back to thinking that the broken shock may have triggered a chronic out-of-balance load fault, or something similar. So I pulled the spin control board, since it regulates/controls both agitation and spin functions. Their
Since this is a pre-computer model, and all timer and dial functions operated o.k., this also points toward the spin control board.
As I mentioned above, while finding other spin control boards available, I chose RepairClinic.com because of their return policy.
I originally ordered the shock absorber and pins from Amazon, but a day later got a notice from Amazon that the order was cancelled due to an inventory error on their part (rather their vendor's part).
So I found another new-old-stock shock absorber on ebay, and ordered it.
Suspecting that the spin control board would arrive first, I made a temporary repair with contact cement and a clamp on the shock absorber, so that I could test the control board without the possibility of the bad shock triggering another board problem.
When the board arrived, I installed it and ran two test loads through in the garage with the back of the machine removed, so I could easily watch the shock absorber . On load number 3, my crappy repair of the shock absorber failed, and I shut off the machine.
Two days later the new shock absorber arrived and I installed it. Then ran two more loads through in the garage so I could see the inside of the machine from front and rear. When all seemed o.k., I reinstalled it in the house.
During this 19 day process, I had plenty of time to make repairs on my buddiy's appliance cart, and to use rubbing compound and wax on both the washer and dryer. - Ha !
Bottom line here Jeanette, is that I just got lucky. I just made a couple of lucky guesses that turned out o.k.
Anyone reading this please understand; I am not a qualified repairman. I was, and still am, willing to call in the services of someone who is. I have no bones to pick with people who charge for their services, as the fees charged by capable and ethical repair professionals are what it really cost to do things right, and for them to profit and make a living from their skills.
But I'm kind of a dinosaur in many ways, so I tend to take a stab at it before picking up the phone.
LOL, good for you Paul. I have done so much of the same things over the years. And, when my dad was alive, I would call him long distance, and tell him what my problem was, and he would tell me what was wrong. He had done so much of this himself and he was always right on. Such a big help.
One time my dishwasher went out and I asked him and he said it was the pump. So, I went down to a repair shop and asked if I could buy a rebuilt from them. They sold it to me and asked if I wanted them to put it in. I said no, my daughter, who was about 10 yrs old at the time and with me, and I would do it. He and the rest of the guys laughed and he asked them if they would like to get a case of beer and go watch.
So, we went home and worked on the machine and the pretty soon the phone rang. It was the fellow who sold it to me. He asked me if I wanted him to come put it in. I told him no, I was just getting ready to push the button to see how it worked. Needless to say, I never heard from him again, and the machine worked great.
My daughter is now 53 years old, so you know how long ago that was. I don't do this stuff anymore. :0)
Jnette wrote:LOL, good for you Paul. I have done so much of the same things over the years. And, when my dad was alive, I would call him long distance, and tell him what my problem was, and he would tell me what was wrong. He had done so much of this himself and he was always right on. Such a big help.
One time my dishwasher went out and I asked him and he said it was the pump. So, I went down to a repair shop and asked if I could buy a rebuilt from them. They sold it to me and asked if I wanted them to put it in. I said no, my daughter, who was about 10 yrs old at the time and with me, and I would do it. He and the rest of the guys laughed and he asked them if they would like to get a case of beer and go watch.
So, we went home and worked on the machine and the pretty soon the phone rang. It was the fellow who sold it to me. He asked me if I wanted him to come put it in. I told him no, I was just getting ready to push the button to see how it worked. Needless to say, I never heard from him again, and the machine worked great.
My daughter is now 53 years old, so you know how long ago that was. I don't do this stuff anymore. :0)
Jeanette, as we say in cattle country, you've got "sand" - or "grit". And that's meant as a compliment. - Fact is, I think someone made a movie about "grit" about the same time you and your 10 year old daughter were displaying it . . . seems like they called him "Duke". Some years later, Sam Elliott praised a lady for the same qualities in the movie "Connagher".
My Dad thought the same way as yours, and though he and your Dad aren't physically here any more, he's in my conscience alive and well. I don't always take his advice, but I always ask for it. More often than not, I regret not following his advice or example.
Sorry to digress from the nuts and bolts theme of this board, but I think there is still a great lesson to be learned from those that were alive during the "Great Depression".
And a part of our Dad's way of thinking applies here when trying to fix stuff that ain't destroyed, just " temporarily out of order". - Today's economic conditions also make "fixing" something to at least consider, before "buying".
The great information network we now have instant access to is also a big help.
But like I kinda' said up above, I'm not in this to put repair professionals out of business. I'm just trying to save a little money now, so I'll have it to pay them with when I get hit with the "big one".
Thanks for the compliment Paul. Wish I could still do that kind of stuff. I really enjoyed it. Anyway, Merry Christmas to you too. Have a wonderful new year. Jeanette
Hello All ! What a great forum! My question/problem is...I have a 5 year old Frigidaire front loader (stackable set) and it just decided to not go through the final spin cycle, the other day. I had a technician come out and he said it was the 'control panel'...however, I'm leery of his diagnosis. I discovered how to find the error code and it is E11 which is the water flow not filling up fast enough and I don't understand how that would have anything to do with the final spin cycle. I also realized why I'm probably getting the E11 error and that would be because I am on a well and I have to replace my well filters A LOT and I've noticed other things (besides the water pressure) that take place when it's time to change the filter so I think I can safely assume that the washing machiine reacts to the 'low pressure' and gives me the E11 message. Does anyone know why the spin cycle would refuse to cooperate because of the E11 error? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! The technician gave me a $350 estimate for parts/labor and I'm just not sure that's the answer! Thanks in advance!
Dear Sharon,
Any time you need to service a washer with a dryer on top, it will cost you more to fix than if it were a stand alone unit. If you are unlucky enough to to have it in a closed or wedged in a bathroom, don't be surprised that the service tech wants to be paid for his/her service and is telling you up front that it will be a lot. If the dryer is not on a stand and has to be pulled out, the tech has to deal with the ducting as well. Since the control panel tells the washer what to do, he did not answer you improperly. All you need to ask him is if it is the complete estimate. He either has to have another person help or has to strongarm it himself, and he wants to be paid. People who use washers with a dryer atop or even a tight shelf have to take this into consideration when they install it. Especially when you are on a well. What were you expecting the cost to be?
I just discovered my washer has a slow leak. Not much at all but a few drops each load and after a while that adds up. The laundry room started smelling funny and when I started searching for the cause I ran a cloth under the washer and it was dry but a little while later just after I had done a load of clothes, I could see a small amount of water underneath.
My washer is up on one of those riser drawers. It will likely cost me a good bit to have that monster machine pulled out and repaired, the laundry room is pretty tight. I am not looking forward to this. :-(
Thank you sooooo much for this info!! I was able to fix my washer with no problems at all...the clamps are a little trying but just use some good needle nose pliers and you will be just fine, I had my daughter hold the boot while I placed the clamp back on! I found 5 quarters, 1 dime and a huge industrial staple all cleaned out hooked back up and now spinning just fine!! Being a single mom this saved me $$$ ...Moms you can do this...just follow all the posts...its not that hard at all...I DID IT!!!!!! You can too!~~ :o)
debi, Boy that sounds familiar. Only my experience was so long ago I didn't have the advantage of this thread. Mine was trial by error. LOL, Good for you!!
I have a Frigidaire Gallery Series front load washer. It goes through all cycles but when it comes to the spin cycle it doesn't spin. What could be causing it to do that? Getting tired of ringing out clothes before I pit them in the dryer.
I have a Whirlpool Duet front load washer, 8 years old. Yesterday it stopped doing the fast spin but seemed to drain okay. I found how to run a diagnostic test from link above (thanks William) :-) It ran through the test, did the fast spin and was done, no error codes!! I then unplugged it for about half an hour, and voila, it spins now. And husband was all ready to go out and get a new machine that we can't afford. I think I'll have him clean out the drain, just to be sure there is nothing stuck in there. All these helpful things we can find on forums on the internet!! :-)
First of all and foremost, EXCELLENT FORUM!!!! KUDOS DAVE!!!! The following information is what I found out through reading this forum, so Thanxz everyone for all of your trials and errors in the process!!!
I have a Frigidaire front load washer Model # LTF2940ES3 that won't perform the final high speed spin, unless I run it in the diagnostic mode manually(learned how to run the diagnostic here using the appliance aid website) and shows code E47.
From everything I have read here most people only had to replace the wax motor vs. the whole door latch assembly. Every time I tried to get the part # for the wax motor, I would get the whole door latch assembly PN which is 131763202. Finally, I can't remember how or where, I found a wax motor PN 12002535, but am not completely sure it is the correct one for my machine model. I think the people who only had to replace the wax motor had a different model than mine.
I called Frigidaire and the person I talked with said it doesn't show that the wax motor can be purchased separately and I'd have to purchase the whole door latch assembly. I can, however, purchase the previously indicated wax motor PN from repair clinic for $9.04 plus $6.95 S&H and they told me I can even return it after I install and use it, if I find out that it is not the cause of the problem within 365 days.
First, I guess I should remove the current part from my machine to see if the PN I found is the same one on the part I have in my machine presently and if it disconnects from the latch assembly or if it is one solid piece. My husband has washed his hands of it, no pun intended, because he feels he has tried just about everything and still can't figure it out.
Sorry I'm so long winded, but we've been going nutz trying to figure this all out and how to fix with lowest out of pocket expense as I am out of work and have not been able to find a job to accomodate our special needs children's schedules. I lost my job one year ago after 27 years of service with IBM. My husband lost his job after 24 years and was out of work for 2 & 1/2 years. He has been employed now again for about a year and a half. My questions are, has anyone purchased the wax motor PN above for my model number machine? Was it the correct part for the assembly and did it work and solve their no spin problem? Thanxz for any input you can offer me, aside from what I have already benefitted from on this GREAT Forum.
Of course you're confused. Wherever did you get the idea you need a wax motor? Free advice is worth what you pay for it. Call a servicer. A wax motor is neither wax nor a motor. It is used on a few older front load machines made by Maytag. You've wasted more time on nothing and confused everyone.
I am not confused (well not by this conversation). The point is that someone needs help with a problem. Can we help this person? Preferably without any bullying or belittling? That would be a good thing - and we all want good things. Right?
Thanxz for sticking up for me Dyson! I am not, never have been and don't claim to be a washing machine repair specialist Cathy166 and there is no need to climb up onto your high horse and be so cruel to everyone. I came to the wax motor conclusion, by reading all the posts above. Since I posted, upon further investigation online, I found out that particular wax motor was indeed for a Maytag washer, so thanxz for knowing that and sharing it, but you're not perfect. You were wrong in your earlier posts of Dec 2012 to boghots (Paul) about his Frigidaire spin control board, so why don't you just cool your jets and try to lend a little guidance instead of so much criticism and trash talk to all of us who really don't know all about how to fix our appliances, but are trying to do the best we can for what we have and can afford, due to the difficult times we're living in right now. I have an autistic son and another one in special education with special needs and developmental delays, so our lives are in alot of daily turmoil as it is, without adding another issue. I'm all for calling in a service person, if need be. I know they need a job to do as badly as I do to make a living. I have done so in the past many many times when I could easily afford to do so, but now, we can hardly pay for what we already have, let alone add yet another bill to the mix. I came here to seek help and assistance, not your nasty know it all attitude. You're only making yourself look bad with all your negativity. If you don't want to help anyone, keep quiet. If you'd like to be civil and give some sincere advice, well then I'm all for it as I'm sure everyone else would be too. Please, don't be a hater. It's not good for anyone to be that way. Don't worry, be happy.
Thanxz to you too WormsLovSharon. You posted while I was typing and I didn't see it until afterwards. I don't want or need any problems with anyone. I just felt like I was slapped in the face by what was written to me for no apparent reason what so ever. We're all only here trying to learn and looking for answers to help aid us on our mission impossible.
Sharon, not having a bad day. I simply know what people post, how misleading it is and how they waste everyone's time when barking up the wrong tree. We all have our shares of trials and don't visit them on others. As a professional in this business, I get countless calls from people who now have to spend so much more because they have "worked on" their own appliances. Most times people who take internet advice get a quick fix that is more like a bandage than a proper repair and cannot understand why it did not last. You'll find that subscribers ask much more logical questions than those who just "find" us, grasping at straws.
I was a professional and that did not stop me from answering questions when someone was in need. I eventually got a good return from that compassion. Maybe that is why everyone called me Mother Winter.
My dad owned his own roofing company for 48 years and people would try to patch and repair, then expect him to magically treat their issues and for a bargain price since they believed they fixed it until the roof leaked again. Some customers were repeat offenders and he'd explain "water travels" but they wouldn't listen. It was total frustration dealing with the people who couldn't be satisfied.
In my own professional life most who would call me after getting their home mortgages would be grateful and many showed great generosity with flowers, gifts, letters of praise. There were always a few who weren't so elated and the staff got the blame for high taxes (we did not control their taxes) or some other problem not within our range to correct though we always tried to help. The public can be demanding.
The public also wasn't aware of major learning difficulties with my brother, or my brother's death on the job, or my mother's health, etc.
Think we all should cool off. This has been a most productive thread and Cathy has been a lot of help, as has everyone else who has added their 2 cents worth. I have not had any problems with my washer or dryer that I have needed help with, but if I did I would come directly to this thread before calling a repairman.
I just want to let you all know that I was able to fix my washer after reading this thread, so thank you to all!! I do have a question though, when we were putting a hose on, a clamp fell into the drum, and needless to say, the washer really won't spin again. Any ideas on how to get that out? It was an accident of course. If you have any suggestions, please let me know!! Thanks!
Thanxz to this web site, I finally decided to order and I received the door latch assembly from repairclinic.com for about $76. I replaced it in a very short time and my washer is now working properly once again performing the high speed final spin. Thanxz to all of you who had the same problem and helped me decide where to start to get my washer fixed without having to spend more money than was neccessary. If the door lock didn't work, my next step was to order the motor control board to see if that was the problem and the cost of that is about $160. I opted to try the cheaper fix first and hoped it was the right decision. Thanxz to everyone who led me in the right direction. I was so thankful when I installed it and it worked all the way through the complete wash, rinse and high speed spin cycles with not one single problem. SUCCESS!!!
I just have to start by saying that this thread saved me from replacing my washing machine, THANK YOU ALL!!! I was very frustrated because my washer SUDDENLY stopped draining or spinning. I thought for sure it had to be the pump because a drain filter wouldn't just "clog" overnight... Well after searching for the lowest price pump ($105.00 before shipping and taxes), I decided to try locating the drain filter and cleaning it... Boy am I glad I did. Not only did I not have to replace the pump, I have an extra 10 bucks in change. I CANNOT believe how much change was in that filter. I just had to sign in to say thank you to every one that gave advice, opinions and intructions on how to trouble shoot and fix this problem. I have 4 kids so being without a washing machine (even for a few days) is not an option! Thanks again everyone :)
