Rose care in the mid-south?

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

I quit roses years ago. My limited success with brugmansia gave me the confidence to try roses again. I have three, they have bloomed all summer and they are happy and without bugs, mildew, etc. So, I have two more months for sure with them and I would like to know what you guys in the mid-south do for your roses in the fall and winter. Should I used Bayer 2 n 1 again?? Do they need additional fertilizer. Any tips and suggestions will be sincerely appreciated.

Moscow, TN(Zone 7a)

Hi Sherry,
Several years ago I gave up on roses for the reasons. But then decided to give them another try. Actually the preventative schedule for roses is the same as brugs. So since I use it for my Brugs I just spray the roses every ten days at the same time. I spray the Neem oil at dusk to avoid burning the plants. The Neem oil works good but I keep it off my tropical hibiscus, hosta, and Japanese Maples because it seems to burn them. In mid-August I cut the roses back about 1/3 and give them a fresh composted manure top dressing and Bayer 2-in-1. That will give you a good healthy flush in September/October. I water (a lot) with soaker hoses, which helps controlling fungus. When planting them I dig an extra BIG hole and use a good soil mix with lots of compost and composted manure to give them a good start. In February I prune, especially any cross branching in the center of the plant so there will be good circulation of air. Some of the
China and Austin roses keep their foliage in mild winters so I go easy on the prune if the foliage is pretty. Add fresh mulch several times during the summer after spraying the soil around the rose with a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide (the miracle liquid). It will not hurt the plant to spray the leaves and stems with the same solution, let sit five minutes then rinse off. I don't grow tea roses usually, so the tea roses might require a more severe prune than China or, Austins, or Shrub roses. Hope this is information that helps.

Loretta


P.S.-Around the 1st of August I do the brugs like the roses, except I go easier on the prune but have been known to take off 75% of the brug leaves if they have been chewed or have any mites so the foliage looks pretty for the fall flush.




This message was edited Sep 8, 2006 8:02 AM

Thumbnail by shadowgirl
SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

Gosh, I hit the jackpot, wow!! You told me everything I need to know and I will start on them today, I only have 4, so I could be finished by noon. I really appreciate your post!!! Great info and I won't have to buy a single thing. Happy Weekend!!

Philadelphia, MS(Zone 7b)

Loretta,
Thanks for the post. Its one that I've printed off and put in my binder for further reference.
Deb

Moscow, TN(Zone 7a)

You are both very welcome!
Be careful fertilizing, especially extended release, after mid-September. You don't want too much young tender growth at the first freeze. My inclination is over-fert this time of year because I want more and more but it is not a good thing.

Loretta

Pocahontas, TN(Zone 7b)

Loretta,

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the timely information and SherryLike thanks for starting the thread. . I bought Bob 3 rose bushes early spring and 2 more lately which were on sale. I don't like anything with thorns, so he's helping to care for them.

Do you use the Rose Food Stakes? I did, only because I caught them "on sale" and they have really been good for Bob's Roses.

Once again thanks for the info.

Judy

Moscow, TN(Zone 7a)

They probably function like slow release fert so I would think they are fine plus easy to use.

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

I wrote a long post yesterday but DG was down and I couldn't get it posted - if all the other sites had not been running, I would have thought high traffic, but that was not it, and I tried it on two computers besides this one. Oh, well, I'm glad it's running today. I cannot remember what I said, except thank you again, Loretta. I worked on my four roses, planted one, and I'm going back today to look for more. I become addicted so easily. I had a few scorched appearing leaves and a few others had one bite in some leaves - I cannot imagine what kind of bug takes only one bite. Question: In my Bayer 2 n 1, I found a single bottle of Bayer 3 n 1 rose food. When is it used?? I'm about to run outta 2 n1 and I'd like to use the 3 n 1 when I get the new roses, will it be okay???

Pocahontas, TN(Zone 7b)

This rose is a present from Judy. I took the picture as the sun was setting Thursday night.

Loretta: I've been spraying the nearby brugs and the roses with Talstar One for spider mites. I've sprayed three times about 5 or 6 days apart. Have you ever had to use Talstar One?

Thumbnail by BigDaddy99
Pontotoc, MS(Zone 7b)

I only grow Old Garden Roses that require no spraying ! Belinda's Dream and Knockout are the best !!!!!!

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

Yeah, I have Knockout, put it in the ground yesterday and it appears to love it here...mine is the 'electric' pink one...

Moscow, TN(Zone 7a)

Big Daddy-I've never used Talstar or any stong miticides. If any of my plants are too infested I just do a hard prune. But, I have never noticed mites on my roses before though. My philosophy is consistent preventative measures and if mites get the upper hand, then prune. I am not a 100% organic gardener because I do use chemicals. But sparingly, especially if something less toxic would work. Plus I' ve heard some of the miticides cost as much as gold. lol Which brings me to this idea I had the other day. I wonder if you put a thick circle of vasoline around the trunk if mites wiuld get trapped in it climbing up the plant. Ya' ll don't laugh!! A mind is a terrible thing to waste. lol

Sherry- Is 3-fertilizer, miticide, and insecticide? I would just be careful with time released fertilizer right now and I cut way back on my preventative during times for low insect activity, I just use horticultural sprays in the fall generally. Mites can develop resistence to chemicals and if you have one that works you might want to hold it back for time of high insect activity. What do you think?

Corgimom-The old garden roses can't be beat. I like to go the Rose Emporium's website and look at their selection of old and antique roses. I love China's.

Loretta

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

Knock on wood, I have a few mites on a few brugs, but not enough to treat. My roses, for which I am eternally grateful, do not have mites, and I pray they are spared. However, if we don't get rain soon, everything will be 'gone' for the winter. I'm working on adding evergreens and keeping the ones I added earlier watered. Thing is, our high today was 89, and it wasn't that temp long, but the mornings are so wonderfully cool that it hits me in the face every day about 4pm and I'm just whipped. We appear to be having an early fall re the temps, but without rain, it's difficult to appreciate...

Moscow, TN(Zone 7a)

It was hot here today too. Maybe you could put a soaker hose on the plants you are trying to establish and they will get some deep watering. This summer I would leave the soaker hoses on half a day or more, sometimes all day. We don't have a water bill though just electricity for the pump, but the dog-gone electric bill was 350.00 a month for June, July, and August.

Spring City, TN(Zone 7b)

What about black spots on roses. I've bought the SAFER spray and it doesn't seem to be doing a thing.....? The blooms are gorgeous, the foliage is not so much.....? Ideas?

Moscow, TN(Zone 7a)

Neem oil will control black spot as a preventative. Once it develops there is no cure so a preventative spray schedule is crucial. At that time pruning is the only was to rid the plant of it. These two sites should answer any questions for you.

http://pmo.umext.maine.edu/factsht/Spotrose.htm
http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/sustainable/handbooks/naturaldisease/leasttoxic.html

I decided to do some research on fertilizing newly planted roses. Fertilizing roses when planted in the fall is not recommended. Fertilizing Spring planted roses is recommended by some and not by others. Bareroot roses are the most susceptable to root burn at planting time. Here is a link to a site I found that is in NC so it should apply to our climate.

http://www.witherspoonrose.com/advice.php

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