| Author | Content |
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
November 28, 2006
04:23 PM Post #2951160
| I am looking for easy-to-build (and understand) plans for an outside cat house. My husband hates cats in the house (although, right now, I have 2) and we have 4 pet cats outside (along with 2 - sometimes more, feral cats). I currently just have a long ricketty make-shift table with a similarly shaky top overhead to feed on. I would like to build something with multiple levels and maybe sectioned-off (like little rooms) for cats to be somewhat separated. The 'room' dividers would also assist in providing more shelter from the north winds (and rain) that sometimes blow through our area during the winter. Also as a safe haven from wandering dogs. It would be nice if it could resemble a small rustic (we have a log house) kids or doll house. (It would be easier to for DH not to complain if it looks cute and/or blends in)
Another issue would be how to keep it preserved. The table I have is only about 1 1/2yrs old and has already show enough weathering to be very shaky and rotting. I thought about wood (water) preservative they say to put on decks or clear coating with sealer, but I have a long board that was clear coated w/sealer that was meant to be a shelf (never hung) that is now outside and it is also starting to show weathering. It has been outside approx 1 year.
I have searched multiple times, for hours, on the internet and have not found much other than pictures. I need more specific information since I am not familiar with "building" with tools, but willing to try to learn. (DH does understand/works with construction, but for some reason refuses to help me or build it.)
Thanks in advance for any suggestions available. ~~~ Carol |
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
November 28, 2006
04:38 PM Post #2951191
| I made one a year ago, but don't think the cat ever used it. Even though I lined it with the old sheepskin that he had been using in the garage for a year.
It was just a simple box with the front side missing. I made a roof/cover from a couple of pieces of corrigated roofing that were cut-offs from a roofing job - (scrap that the contractor was throwing away). Used some silicone to attach the sheepskin. |
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
November 28, 2006
05:01 PM Post #2951235
| What size/dimension leg supports should I use? (4x4, 2x4 doubled, ?) Did you use 2x4's to make a box and then cover the sides with plywood? Any braces in the corners? |
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
November 28, 2006
05:42 PM Post #2951334
| I will try to shoot some pictures this evening.
I think I used 1x2s - nothing too heavy. I did make the roof removable, so I could clean it out if needed. |
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
November 28, 2006
06:01 PM Post #2951395
| Thinking about what you want - multiple cats - multiple levels - log cabin look.
Do you have a table saw? Can you use it?
Landscaping timbers are reasonably cheap and treated, so weathering would not be a problem. I have some over 17 years old, and this is Houston - humidity city, and every insect known to man.
If you split then in half the long way, you would have 1/2 logs that could easily be cut to length and assembled on a 2x2 or 2x4 frame. The result coulf be a 3-4 foot cube or hip- roof rectangle. If the second floor were 1 ft above first, you would need to leave about a 6x6 opening for the cats to climb thru, or leave one open about 6" wide. |
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
November 28, 2006
06:47 PM Post #2951526
| I have and can use what I think is called a circular saw. My husband and I have a table saw on our Christmas wish list. (If you know anything about which brands are the best for reasonable cost I would love help with this.)
Great idea on using the landscape timbers as long as I can cut them length-ways. Do you think 1x2 or 2x2 would be strong enough to hold the weight together(?) or probably should be framed with 2x4's. Would I build a box (and create each section) for each level, attached the separate levels together, then add the landscape timbers on the outside? Any thoughts on whether I should put ramps, stairs, or just let them jump to go to the different levels? I would really like to make 3 levels. |
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
November 29, 2006
09:57 AM Post #2953017
| 3 levels! - that will be a BIG house.
You will have trouble splitting landscape timbers with just a circular saw. I could make a jig that would allow that, but without a jig I would not attempt it - too dangerous. I would not want anyone hurt doing what should be a fun project.
Depending on your budget, there are a number of options for a table saw.
1) table top $100-150
2) contractors $200-500
3) cabnet $800-$$$$ average about 1500
Those are listed in price and functionality from low to hi.
I just have a table top on a stand, but have added several safety features - better fence, magnetic featherboards, etc.
Best improvement - top-of-the-line saw blades.
Home Depot and Lowe's have hybred saws - better than a contractors saw and less than a cabnet - price is not much more than a contractors saw, but much better features - (I want one).
Building a structure that big - I can agree with a 2x4 frame. I do not think stairs would be needed, but if you wanted to add ramps it would be easier to design and build.
Probably will need some entry cover - could be a porch, or perhaps a "doggie-door" - I would cheat and make one from thin lexan and add small brass hinges - no rust - to swing from the top - allow door to swing both in and out. Walmart has some litterboxes that have such swinging doors, but they hang on the plastic cover - you will need something more substantial out doors.
Now for a picture or two of my tiny cat house.
A friend gave me an old desk that was in poor shape - I salvaged the wood. Bottom and top are 3/4 ply, sides are 1/4 ply. Corner supports are 3/4 strips - all screwed together - no nails. Lined bottom and sides with reflective covered foam - attached with silicone, then glued sheepskin to foam.
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
November 29, 2006
09:58 AM Post #2953023
| pic 2 - top removed so you can see how I attach it - just press fit over the sides and back. 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
November 29, 2006
10:00 AM Post #2953025
| pic 3 - inside without the top 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
November 29, 2006
02:38 PM Post #2953620
| Looks like it would be a great place to have if I was an outside kitty.
What is "thin lexan"? (whatever it is sounds like a good idea)
Is it possible to do a drawing of how I could build stairs or a ramp?
Would you build each level separately then sit them on top of one another and attach together somehow?
What do you think I should use to raise it off the ground? I'm guessing it would be best if I leveled out an area of ground large enough and cover it with concrete blocks to sit it on.
Oh the reflective outer layer of the insulation foam. What is it's purpose for having the reflective layer (other than it makes it easier to handle and work with than regular pink insulation)?
For the roof you have a flat piece of wood a little larger than the box then used some little wood on the inside slighty smaller than the box?
Your little pieces in the two corners are they the 1x2 where I would need the 2x4's?
|
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
November 29, 2006
03:32 PM Post #2953748
| I'll try to answer in order of your questions.
Lexan is a very hard clear plastic. It comes in single thickness (1/16") and double thickness (like a plate glass window). Lowe's and HD, both have it and can cut whatever size you would need. If you wanted to use a large sheet for your house, it would be better to go to a glass dealer. The cutting booths at the big-box stores are too small.
I have some drawing software and will try to create some designs for you. Have you looked at the birdhouses on this topic? http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/568623/ Cranbrook2 has some great designs - massive structures.
The double sided foam was left over from a project I helped a friend with on the Pedernales River near Johnson City. It is tremendous insulation. We created a double roof by plating the undersides of the rafters and a-frame with the foil covered foam. First we installed gable vents, then installed the foam. Created a weighted trap-door that we could open by pulling a rope. When we opened the trap-door the convection current between the metal roof and the foam created an updraft you would not believe. This was done to a 10x10 pump house that we used as a cabin until his house was built. Kept a breeze going which helped with the bugs even if there was no breeze outside - just open the front doors and the trap-door.
When closed it kept the pump and water tank from freezing down to about 20 degrees. We left a 100w light on to maintain above freezing when colder.
Support for the house: Cinder blocks would be a simple inexpensive option. A thin slab of concrete would be another. I doubt the weight would require more than a 2" slab. You could even use whole landscape timbers as a foundation.
The corner pieces in my little box are 3/4 x 3/4. I use pocket screws to assemble because there are no threads on the top half of the screw. It works like a clamp when you tighten them because it will slip in the originating piece of wood and cinch tightly in what it is attached to.
If you want to be able to assemble it in stages - (levels), then some engineering has to be done to allow each level to lock onto the preceeding level. There are a number of ways to accomplish this. Sort of like stacking nesting bowls upside down. Each layer has to overlap the lower to shed water. I will include in a drawing.
This message was edited Nov 29, 2006 2:33 PM
This message was edited Nov 29, 2006 2:35 PM |
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
November 29, 2006
03:41 PM Post #2953774
| Oh my gosh, what cute houses. No I hadn't looked at the thread because it said 'bird houses'.
Haven't gotten to read your whole note yet; Gotta run pick up kids (including my sick sister's) and I've got to go to my ill sister's and help her with some things.. Will check back and read in a few hours.
Thanks so much for all this help. :-) ~~~ Carol |
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
December 08, 2006
11:17 AM Post #2981583
| Bubba, went to Sears the other night and found the table saw we want. Craftsman it was not the lowest OR the highest cost, but only $249 |
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
December 09, 2006
09:05 AM Post #2984437
| Good for you!
Now the fun begins. Be sure to buy the BEST blades you can afford for whatever need you have. I use Freud because they are great blades and available at HD.
Beware of kickback - that is when the board does not stay separated after the cut and climbs onto the saw blade form the back side - the blade is spinning torward the front so it will throw that piece of wood with unbelievable force. And it may not go directly back - can go in any direction 180 degrees (90 each side) from the blade. Holddowns, feather boards, and splitter are worthwhile investments.
thewoodworkingshows.com - have a show in Dallas this weekend, and will be in Houston March 30 - April 1.
Worth a trip to see and learn from experts. I never miss that. Much better prices on tools and supplies.
Happy sawing. |
gloria125
Greensboro, AL
March 17, 2007
05:22 PM Post #3292873
| Caganimalover: What ever you do, I don't think your cats will like it. They don't like to be caged. Especially, if they have ever been free. I have two "cat" houses in my back yard built by the former owner. the dogs love to go in there because they are in the shade. But, no cat would ever stay there. And the former owner said she couldn't get her cat in there either. Good Luck.
|
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 5b)
March 17, 2007
05:28 PM Post #3292894
| We have a house for our cat that looks like a dog house except the opening is smaller. He loves it. |
GrannyGrunt
Mount Pleasant Mills, PA
(Zone 5a)
April 10, 2007
02:44 PM Post #3376861
| Have you decided on a design for your outside house for cats? I am new to this forum and noticed your request. Last Fall, I built a house for my outside tommies and it sits on the front porch. My house is made of board and batten pine and the little house is the same design. It is insulated, and my kitties use it on these cold nights.
If you are interested, I will send you a picture and some rough plans on how I put it together.
Wish you luck with your project. |
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
April 11, 2007
01:39 PM Post #3380420
| I did not think the cat I built it for was using it, but the sudden cold snap we had last week surprised the cat. I moved it into the back yard on a couple of cement blocks.
Let the dog out, and she started barking at the cat-house - out came the cat.
Normally, dog and the cat do not have any problem together. I think the dog was surprised to smell the cat in there - normally he just walks through the iron fence and the dog ignores him.
Cat seems to enjoy the garden as much as we do - not as a litter box, but as a soft resting place.
hoer,
Looking forward to seeing some pix of yours.
|
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
April 17, 2007
10:44 AM Post #3401796
| Hi all!
Been unavailable for some time while working on routing trips for my brother-in-law and husband's company. Still have much more to do and taking FULL DAYS DAILY to do it, so will still not be on daily for a while but wanted to check on things and get a note in.
Did purchase a Craftsman table saw at Christmas, but (with the routing) have not begun the house as of yet. The current plan will be to begin after finishing the east coast trip routing.
Gloria, I already have a table where the cats get fed nightly which has 1 medium crate and 1 small/med wire cage that the cats use currently; the table has a make-shift top attached to give them some weather protection. I just want to make a BETTER place for them and provide a larger space for the cats to be somewhat protected from the dogs and separated from each other while being free to come and go. (I even see one of the feral cats in both the crate and cage daily - sleeping and taking a bath) They will use it, believe me.
Hoer, would be thrilled to see pictures and rough plans. I can always utilize more than one outside location for kitties. The first one will be on the lines that Bubba suggested using landscape timbers for a log house look (my husband will appreciate that). It would be really FUN to be able to get it accomplished while he is doing the east coast trip and give him a HUGE surprise when he comes home, that his wife could accomplish something like that without his help. :>)) !!!
Anybody else have any ideas or helpful information on construction they are always appreciated.
Carol |
GrannyGrunt
Mount Pleasant Mills, PA
(Zone 5a)
April 20, 2007
10:33 AM Post #3412108
| Here some pictures of the house I built for my outside tommies. Mainly for Squirt!
Hope they show up!
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
GrannyGrunt
Mount Pleasant Mills, PA
(Zone 5a)
April 20, 2007
11:02 AM Post #3412184
| Sides, floor and roof are insulated. 
Click the image for an enlarged view.
|
GrannyGrunt
Mount Pleasant Mills, PA
(Zone 5a)
April 20, 2007
11:13 AM Post #3412213
| If you are interested in more detailed information, size, how it is built, etc. l will be happy to furnish that information to you.
The landscape timber idea sounds great. However, I am not sure about ripping them on the table saw. Bubba would know more about that than I do, but I wonder if the blade (10 inch) will raise high enough to make the cut in one pass? This sounds scary to me. |
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX
April 20, 2007
12:33 PM Post #3412418
| I would do a little experimentation, and probably make a jig to cut the LS timbers. Because they are not as tall as they are wide, a 10" blade should do fine. 3.5" boards can be safely re-sawn if splitter, fence, and feather-boards are properly placed.
Two people instead of a single sawyer also would improve the function and safety if both completely understand each others responsibility.
I would be very careful in selecting the straightest LST I could find. Warped or twisted boards would be a pain to cut on a table saw - would be better on a band saw, but still problematic.
I just might try some this weekend to see how it goes. If i make a jig, I will take pictures for you. |
caganimalover
Joshua, TX
(Zone 8a)
April 26, 2007
09:07 AM Post #3433284
| Do you think cutting the LS timbers alone will be 'dangerous'? I never thought about it could be 'dangerous'. There is a long-shot possibility that I might could get my son to help me, but it would be the cataract patient leading the blind (he is a computer/animation kid), so we sure won't know our 'responsibilities'.
Hoer, thanks for the pictures. Looks very comfortable, especially during the cold months - nice and warm. Did you use tongue-n-groove on the outside?
|
GrannyGrunt
Mount Pleasant Mills, PA
(Zone 5a)
May 03, 2007
07:02 AM Post #3458742
| No tongue and groove. Just plain old pine boards with batten strips to cover the seams. Same design as the house.
You could use T1-11 plywood. This is exterior grade material and stands the trials of time.
Good luck with your project. |
