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Beginner Flowers: What type of flowers should beginners avoid?

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Forum: Beginner FlowersReplies: 52, Views: 674
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zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 21, 2007
05:55 PM

Post #3520878

I know we can try our hand at anything we want, but if you were to warn newbies about what might frustrate them, what would you name?
WeeNel
Ayrshire Scotland
United Kingdom

May 21, 2007
08:32 PM

Post #3521409

Hi zeoplum, I would avoid anything that say on the packet it need a long germination time, you will get bored waiting, so I am thinking maybe exotics, till you get the hang of things, I find a lot of them dont come true from seed and they normaly need heat, the right temp etc to germinate, however, on saying that, in the UK we have 4 seasons (some would say all in the one day) but in USA, you have such a vast divercity of climate and landscape maybe others can be more help than me.
If you are just starting off gardening, try things like Annials, they have to germinate, grow leaves, flower and set seed, all in the ONE year, so you will see results quicker and that gives you encouragement for other things next time with seeds.
If you want to try Perenniels, ( you plant seeds one year, usualy in pots, when germinated, devide the seedlings into indevidual pots, when they have established enough roots, you set them out in the garden to start the flowering procces, remember, they die away in winter, BUT, they sprout back up again come the spring, most are long lived.
Trees and shrubs are hard for a beginner as they can take a while to germinate, even longer to grow big enoigh to put in the garden and longer still till they look like the picture on the packet, some dont even work and are best if grown from cuttings.
I would say that you can grow anything, as you said, but frustration is what puts some people off. To grow plants as a beginner, I would learn patience, dont give in, most people who give up, is because they either kill the plants with kindness, with too much water, keep looking at the soil and wondering why things are not growing, so they pour more water on the seeds, seeds to me are like babies, they need attention, watered and fed, WHEN THEY TELL YOU, so you learn when to water, when they need more room to grow and when they need light/shade or whatever. Gardening is not rocket science or a big mystery, it is really just practice, patience and failure till you learn what plants like and dont like.
If I were you, I would go along to the librery and get a book for beginners (not one that goes into all the technicalities of Darwin, and have a read, you might not think you have taken it all in, but you will have learned the basic's, enough to go out and buy some seeds, start them off and enjoy, that is the best part, enjoying what has grown for you, so what if only some grow, you will have learned enough to try again.
Dont worry about these lovely gardens you see in pictures, they just give you ideas, you will learn your own, so go for it, you will learn to enjoy it as you go along, so have fun.
I hope others will give you some hints and tips, that is what gardening is all about, they will have different ideas from me, so you will find what works for you. Good luck and happy gardening.
WeeNel.
Islandshari
Kwajalein
Marshall Islands
(Zone 11)

May 21, 2007
11:21 PM

Post #3522207

Zeoplum - what a GREAT question! One I wish I had asked many years ago! I'm sure it depends on your area, soil conditions, etc. I had a funny (not!) thing happen to me in Denver. I loved the look of Frittilaria, so I planted some in a back corner of my garden. The first year, as the snow was melting I noticed these "pod" thingys coming up...the jokes flew fast and furious: we were being invaded by pod people from mars, etc. then I started noticing the smell...oh god they were horrid! When they bloomed they were indeed lovely, but they didn't last long and they stunk! I never did get all of them out of the garden, but I learned not to plant anymore!

Hope you get lots of response from folks in your area!
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 22, 2007
09:50 AM

Post #3523124

I would have to say anything that needs overwintered indoors, that's anything that's not for your zone. A few things at first isn't bad, but when it comes to dragging in, finding room, and caring for 30+ plants each winter it can get old fast! Wait for all that till you get a greenhouse.

I'd also have to say to be careful of things that reseed on their own. It sounds lovely at first, but can be such a mess in the long run. Make sure you want it and LOVE it before you plant it if it reseeds, you may be stuck with it forever!! The same goes for anything with the word "creeping" in it's name. Ask me how I know!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

May 22, 2007
03:18 PM

Post #3524177

I would also avoid anything that says things like "needs perfect drainage", what that really means is "no matter how careful you are you'll overwater this and kill it"
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 22, 2007
03:48 PM

Post #3524251

Oh my! ecrane3, I haven't run across anything labeled that way but I'll keep that in mind.

heathrjoy - I had a feeling about the stuff labeled as "creeping". My neighbor planted running bamboo in their back yard (before we moved in) and now that stuff drives me crazy! I'll never plant anything without researching how invasive something is. But the reseeding issue worries me. I just ordered Mums from Bluestone Perennials, but their website said it wouldn't be annoying. Should I be concerned?

(Edited to change "would be annoying" to "wouldn't be...". That was an oops)


This message was edited May 22, 2007 5:34 PM
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 22, 2007
03:49 PM

Post #3524255

By the way, what about Roses? Are those frustrating for beginners? If so, what are the challenges?
sowmo
Southern, CA
(Zone 8b)

May 22, 2007
06:30 PM

Post #3524733

I would avoid vines' or plants that trail, my first planting experience was a morning glory vine, suddenly it started getting out of hand, and growing high, till it had nowhere to go, at the time, I knew nothing about a trellis or stake. 'Lol
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 22, 2007
06:36 PM

Post #3524763

sowmo - that sounds about like something I'd do.

I was eyeballing some Clematis for planting around my mailbox. If I do, I'll be sure to stick with one that only grows to about 4-6 feet.
Islandshari
Kwajalein
Marshall Islands
(Zone 11)

May 22, 2007
11:03 PM

Post #3525594

Zeoplum - just noticed this thread in another forum and thought you might be interested in the warning...

http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/726282/
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 22, 2007
11:04 PM

Post #3525596

I'm not a big Rose fanatic so I don't know a lot about their care, but they can be picky, depending on the variety of Rose you have. I have an old "wild" Rose that you couldn't kill if you tried to! The thing about Roses is that they can get black spot (I think it's a fungus?), but there are sprays for that...and some newer Roses may even be resistant to it. An unbelievable fertilizer for Roses is homemade Alfalfa Tea...
Go here for all the info you need on Alfalfa Tea http://davesgarden.com/terms/go/2294.html
Now, they will all tell you how horribly, horribly stinky the Alf Tea is, but honestly, it never bothered me at all. I used it all around my garden and only smelled it once in *very* hot, humid weather. Now, if you stick your head right into or over top the mixture, sure, then you'll get a whiff that'll knock you out...but, tell me, why would you do that???? LOL!

Get a good book on Roses, or just look up some sites on Google and read. Then you'll be prepared for anything those Roses dish out!


Oh, and about those Mums, you can deadhead them. Just make sure to cut off the spent flowers before they go to seed.
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 22, 2007
11:17 PM

Post #3525637

islandshari - that thread gave me the creeps! That's the reason I will reseach anything before it goes into the ground. I've almost reached the point of tears over this running bamboo in my yard. If I could just pull the runners, I wouldn't mind. But they're thick and you have to dig them up and it just about wore my husband out digging up one. And there are probably at least a hundred back there. If we ever sell this house, I will make sure I get a signed disclosure from the seller of our next place...making them state that do not know of any invasive plants in the yard or the neighbors yard!! That is still no guarantee, but it's a start.

heathrjoy - thanks for the info. I actually don't have a lot of interest in roses but I love the color of the Tropicana Rose and would be willing to try my hand at it one day. But on the other hand, there are probably other plants with the same color that could satisfy my urge.
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 22, 2007
11:19 PM

Post #3525642

A few plants off the top of my head that any beginner should find easy to care for...

Perennials

Daylilies
Hosta
Lily of the Valley
Lilacs
Dianthus
Iris (ask how to plant when buying, don't bury too deep)


Annuals

Impatiens
Lantana (may be perennial in your zone, some newer ones don't need deadheading)
Coleus
Caladiums
Petunia (many don't need deadheading, but watch for where the seeds land!)
Lobelia
Dahlia


I'm sure others can add to these lists and that I'll think of more too. How big of a deal is it for you to deadhead your flowers?
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 22, 2007
11:27 PM

Post #3525657

I have 56 bulbs of Caladium planted and I just bought my first 4 Daylilies so I guess I'm headed in the right direction.

I don't mind deadheading as long as I know exactly when it needs to be done.
Islandshari
Kwajalein
Marshall Islands
(Zone 11)

May 22, 2007
11:33 PM

Post #3525684

Sounds like you are off to a good start, and doing the research is something I wish every new gardener would do...but most are just like me..."Oh that's pretty, I'll buy 6"! Good luck to you, but it doesn't sound like you will need too much in the luck department - you are using your head!
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 23, 2007
12:07 AM

Post #3525892

Deadheading is the easiest, once you catch onto it! It took me a bit to figure it out too, so no blushing allowed!!! LOL After the flower blooms it will start to fade and look icky, that's when you want to get rid of it and deadhead it...when it's no longer pretty. There's 2 reasons to deadhead...#1 to keep your plant pretty and #2 to keep your plant blooming. Your plant will either put energy into making seed or making more blooms. Seeds always show up where the blooms used to be.

So, once the flower looks icky, you just snip or pinch the stem off. How far back do you cut the stem? Easy, easy! Follow the stem back to the next bloom, bud, or leaf and snip the stem 1/4" above the leaf, at a 45* angle. It was hard to find an article that explained this well, but I hope this works for you http://www.gardenlistings.com/Deadheading.htm If you have any questions just ask away!
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 23, 2007
12:21 AM

Post #3525941

That was a good article. I think I can handle that. Now I don't have to worry about my DH getting upset about Mums popping up all over the yard. :-)
DaleTheGardener
Tampa, FL
(Zone 10a)

May 23, 2007
05:25 AM

Post #3526221

To a beginner I would suggest-Avoid plants that you have not seen before. The easy plants are the common ones. Take it easy and build your skills over time. Then, someday, you gardens will look like>

Thumbnail by DaleTheGardener
Click the image for an enlarged view.

zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 23, 2007
09:52 AM

Post #3526836

Oh my!

That is breathtaking!
kls_01
Champaign, IL
(Zone 5b)

May 23, 2007
10:01 AM

Post #3526858

Well, first off I thought dead heading was just removing the old bloom...I didn't know you removed part of the stem as well. Darn it.

Secondly, Dale, if you're done planting your garden you could always come up this way! That's an amazing garden, how long did it take to plant? Is it perrenials or annuals, or a combo? I thought I saw marigolds. Also, what's the lighter green stuff you used to border it all with? Some kind of grass? Really great garden...If I was driving by, I'd probably wreck looking at it...lol

Kristie
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 23, 2007
12:13 PM

Post #3527367

I thought the same thing for years...just pinch off the old flower and you're done...but nope! The reason you take part of the stem too is because at each leaf there is what's called a "node" and in that little node are hormones that will cause new growth. Each leaf node can sprout a new stem which equals more new blooms! That's for annuals anyway, some perennials too. Pretty cool, isn't it?

It works the same way for pinching back plants when they are too leggy, or when growing from seedlings to get a bushier, fuller looking plant.
kls_01
Champaign, IL
(Zone 5b)

May 23, 2007
12:17 PM

Post #3527389

interesting...thanks heathrjoy...learn something new everyday!

Kristie
susybell
Vancouver, WA
(Zone 8a)

May 23, 2007
12:18 PM

Post #3527393

Hi Zeoplum

HAve you considered putting up a "free bamboo-you dig" ad on craigslist or the local paper? Even if more gets killed than removed it doesn't sound like you'd mind much, lol! Or maybe you could talk to your neighbor to see if he'd come over and help remove it??? It's a shame when people don't make an effort to be a good neighbor when they plant bamboo. When it's done properly, it's manageable. Plus, there are other kinds that don't try to take over.

Also, on the invasives, some of it is completely local, and sometimes it's accidental. You may end up with something that normally is well-behaved but for some reason it just takes off where you are. I'm fighting lemon balm that "escaped" from a container when I wasn't looking. The nice part is that it smells divine when I'm pulling it out of the beds, lol!

It's so frustrating to me when nurseries and magazines or plant books don't tell you that the "way-cool" plant could actually take over the world. Butterfly bush is one that is considered very invasive where I am, yet it's sold all over the place. Arrgh!
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 23, 2007
01:18 PM

Post #3527622

susybell - fortunately, my neighbor has cut hers down and has offered to help us with ours. Her husband was the one who planted it and now, due to illness, is unable to tend to it. But it got in our yard and an adjoining yard before this illness so it got away from him even when he was tending to it.

I don't think my husband would like the idea of people coming over and digging it up. He's kind picky about stuff like that. So, even though it'll probably drive us crazy getting it out, we'll just work on it one day at a time. I've been cutting the shoots down as they come up because we're not in a hurry to landscape the back yard where it's located. Right now, we're focused on the front yard. But when the time comes and if we get in a hurry, we may consider other options.

And when we DO landscape back there, he's planning to redo our privacy fence so I'm going to suggest we put that heavy duty plastic down around the perimeter to keep other stuff from coming in. I forgot what guage you have to use but I know it's thick and it has to go down 2 feet. That'll be a job!
gabagoo
Yonkers, NY
(Zone 5b)

May 23, 2007
01:27 PM

Post #3527650

Re: deadheading... it's not just the "node issue".
It just LOOKS better when you cut back more.
Otherwise, you'd end up with a bunch of stems sticking up.
Think - Morticia Adams' roses.
LOL!

Nancy
susybell
Vancouver, WA
(Zone 8a)

May 23, 2007
02:20 PM

Post #3527789

Gabagoo
You are SO right about the deadheading! Love the example- LOL!
Marshmellow
Fitchburg, MA

May 23, 2007
02:32 PM

Post #3527841

I would say for beginners to avoid are

Roses
Delphiniums
Monkshood

I think mainly the key to beginners is to understand what soil they have and stick to plants that do well with it. Easy plants for a beginner with Sandy soil would be
Echinacea (Can tolerate dry soils prefers clay/moist)
Tuberosa (Butterfly Weed)
Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susans)
Kniphofia (Red hot pokers)
Echinops Ritro (just make sure you grow it in a poor site)
Achillea (Yarrow)
Perovskia (Russian Sage)
Sedum (Stonecrop)

Those with clay/nutrient rich/moist soils will probably like
Echinacea
Asters
Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed)
Alchemilla (Lady's Mantel)
Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susans)
Boltonia (often referred to as Wild Asters)
Helenium (Sneezeweed)
Mums

Why Roses may not be a good idea? Japenese beetles find rose pedals to be one of their favorites so, see a bud forming when it does open it'll usually look like swiss cheese after a few of them got in. They need lots of water but CAN'T be watered from above so, any garden with a rose pretty much eliminates using a sprinkler, in some cases a garden hose. Wet rose leaves causes blackspot which roses are extremely susceptible to getting. Even with special care, you may need to spray constant fungicide to control it. In winter, you need to remove and throw away all rose leaves just incase blackspot is on them. In winter in colder areas you need to bury them under a foot of straw. So, probably not roses though some people have all the right conditions for them and a happy rose is most disease resistant and can be care free.

Delphiniums, particularly the large Pacific Giants and English because they need to be watered a lot, almost impossible to overfeed, but the main reasons snails find them irresistible, their flowers are huge but stems hollow so they break easily and each flower needs to be staked in a particular fashion, and last they will bloom so profusely as to "bloom themselves to death". Yup, the first year you have to keep it down to a single flower. A 2 year old plant at most can be allowed to have 3 flowers. And, 3+ year old plant can have at most 5 else, it will most likely use all its energy in flowers/seeds and have no energy left to live. All parts are poisonous to.

Monkshood because it's a simply insanely poisionous, it was used in ancient times to poison enemies water lines, used to tip spears and arrows with poison, a bride chose it for her main flower and the florist working with it had to be rushed to the hospital. I've looked for Monkshood, it's not offered in many places I found it of all places at my local Home Depot, I could not believe it. I asked one of their garden employees where their perrenials were and they responded, "I don't know, never heard of that plant". These are the people selling some the most poisonous plants. Unfortunately with most plants their poisonous nature and how serious their effect is based on your weight so, a child who accidentally EATS it may die whereas an adult will probably need hospitilization (chance of death). Also, an adult may be able to touch and handle it without noticeable affects a child doing likewise or who accidentally rolls around in it may need to be hospitalized. I think Monkshood is not for beginners or professionals for that matter but rather for those who like exotic or eccentric plants.

The question is rather difficult, it's really not that any of these are not for beginners. It's just knowing what's involved I guess. Any beginner can grow a large Delphinium as long as they keep it watered, well fed, staked, and know they have to limit its flower count. Same with a rose, as long as a beginniner knows roses are extremely susceptible to blackspot and to minimize it by keeping water off the leaves it's not that hard. Give them water at the roots, nutrients, sun, and throw away the leaves in fall and burying it under a foot of straw for winter and no problem for beginners. Monkshood, if you know what it's deadly nature a beginner shouldn't have too much trouble growing it. I guess it's not so much what plants are for beginners, it's more beginners understanding their soil, finding plants that match it, and if they want a Rose, or Delphinium be willing to put some effort into it but any beginner can handle them.
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 23, 2007
02:48 PM

Post #3527879

Wow, Marshmellow, what a great response. That's encouraging because I like to read and research anything I'm interested in so it sounds like I might have a good chance at success with this gardening stuff. I will try to learn as much as I can about my soil conditions and use that info to pick my plants.

You know...I had no idea when I originally started this thread that I'd have such great responses from so many people. And hopefully other newbies are reading and learning along with me.

You guys really make DG a great place to be.

susybell
Vancouver, WA
(Zone 8a)

May 23, 2007
03:19 PM

Post #3528003

Hi Zeoplum,
Sorry, I missed your earlier reply to me (I'm new to DG and these forums)

Yeah, I can relate about being uncomfortable about letting people mess with your yard, but desperate situations??? lol

In any case, sounds like you've got a good handle on what you're needing to do to corral your bamboo "beastie". I think they call the black plastic stuff "rhizome barrier". I've read different recommendations, but it seems like they say a minimum of 30mil thick and 26-30 inches tall. Bamboo Garden Nursery in Oregon sells a 60mil thick one, and it's not cheap. I've also read that digging a trench 8-10 " deep around the edge makes it possible to watch for the rhizomes. They're normally quite shallow. Then you just come along and hack them off when you see 'em. They also like nice fertile soil, so if you can make your soil in that area less desirable, that might help (How's that for backwards???)

At least you've got a good source for garden stakes for a little while yet! ;)

I'm hesitating to recommend anything for you because I'm not too familiar with your part of the country. I do agree about the delphiniums, though. I like easy-care flowers, so as pretty as they can be, delphiniums are too fussy for me.



zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 23, 2007
03:27 PM

Post #3528038

susybell - I see you just signed up with DG this week. Welcome! I'm new here too and so far, I'm finding it very helpful! At first, I just signed up for the 2 month subscription to "check things out" but I just recently renewed for a whole year so I plan to be here a while.

So far, here is what I've committed myself too (i.e. already planted, already bought or already ordered...and boy do I need to stop! DH is beginning to wonder about me!): Caladium, Daylilies, Siberian Irises, Mums, Columbine, Hostas and a Fern. I think that's enough for now. But I keep saying that...and then I buy more. How do you people pay your bills? *winks*
susybell
Vancouver, WA
(Zone 8a)

May 23, 2007
06:31 PM

Post #3528624

Hi Zeoplum! Thanks!
I agree, I'm really enjoying DG so far-and learning a lot, too.

Aha! I can give you a couple of tips!

Columbines are known for reseeding themselves-you'll want to watch for babies next spring. This can be good, this can be bad. Prompt deadheading to prevent seeds is helpful. They also will sometimes suffer from powdery mildew, but it depends on the variety. Powdery mildew isn't pretty but it generally won't kill the plant and it's manageable.

Let's see- DH issues (yep, familiar with this one! Don't worry, he'll get used to it eventually...) Well, there's always the "plant it before he notices it" strategy...
One way to save money on perennials is to buy smaller ones. There's no need to buy a gallon-sized perennial if you're willing to be a little patient. A 4-inch pot will catch up with the gallon pretty quickly and if it doesn't survive (or you decide you hate it and rip it out) you're not out as much money.

Another thing you can do is try (I said try...) not to buy the newest introduction or color because they're always more expensive.

I notice that you've got several shade plants. Heucheras go really well with hostas and actually come in some pretty interesting colors, although except for the classic Coral Bells the flowers aren't much. I find them really easy.
gabagoo
Yonkers, NY
(Zone 5b)

May 23, 2007
09:27 PM

Post #3529108

susybell is right about buying smaller perrennials.

Remember the Perennial Three-Step Rule-
SLEEP
CREEP
LEAP

The first year, they're establishing their root system and getting acclimated to their new home.
The second year, they start to send up new growth.
The third year, they really take off.

Nancy
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 24, 2007
12:10 AM

Post #3529679

If you're looking for some nice perennials, at great prices, and you don't mind waiting a bit for them to grow check out http://www.bluestoneperennials.com/b/bp/index.html It seems everyone at DG loves this place, and I do too!

One thing I'd like to add to what Susybell said about Columbines...they are known as short-lived perennials, lasting up to about 5 years. I have mine set up in areas of their own where they can reseed freely...or I let them go to seed and remove the seedpods and save the seed for the next year. It's so much fun to see what crosses will show up!

I was surprised to see Delphinium on anyone's "not for beginner's" list. I was going to list it as a "go ahead and plant it" plant, but didn't simply because they can reseed like crazy. (This is another that I save the seeds from.) I've had a Delphinium for years now, since I was a beginner and never had a problem w/ it. I never cut blooms back, I didn't know I was supposed to! LOL! It's done wonderfully well for me and hasn't puttered out. As for watering it, I had it planted right near the drip line from our roof (no rain gutters), so that solved that problem...but I never even knew they were water or fertilizer hogs either. Mine gets 6-7' tall every year, and I tie it up to my front porch and it literally stops traffic with it's intense purple blooms! I let it go to seed each year, then winter sow the seeds and give the spring plants away as gifts to whomever stopped to see the blooms...it's such a blast!! My Delphinium has been one of my most enjoyable flowers/plants, I really wouldn't discourage a beginner from getting one. However, I would say to either mulch heavily under it or deadhead it before it sets seed so that you don't have volunteer seedlings the following spring. Maybe I've just been really lucky, but I'd say go for it if you want one!
susybell
Vancouver, WA
(Zone 8a)

May 24, 2007
03:58 AM

Post #3529891

Another money-saving tip is to buy the perennials in the fall, before they go dormant. They're often on sale then, and it gives them a whole winter to grow a big, strong root system without also growing leaves so they'll grow better the next spring. (Don't worry if you haven't done that, though. Your plants will still be just fine!)

I've either had my same original Columbine for 8 years or it's reseeded itself in the exact same place so I've never noticed that it's a new plant. I think the newer hybrids are more long-lasting than the earlier ones, and more resistant to powdery mildew, too.

Wow, that's a great recommendation for delphiniums. Almost makes me tempted to try them again, but I've never had luck with them. Either I don't have enough sun (very likely) or they just don't like me very much!

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

May 24, 2007
01:27 PM

Post #3531289

Planting in the fall is a great idea but only if you're in a mild winter climate, if you live in a cold winter climate you're better off with spring planting.
kls_01
Champaign, IL
(Zone 5b)

May 24, 2007
01:36 PM

Post #3531310

Ok, about the deadheading. I have impatiens that seem to have bad blooms every day. It could be because I get water on them when I water(try not to, but it always happens). Is there anything else I could do to keep the blooms pretty longer? I've been feeding them as well...

Kristie
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 24, 2007
09:03 PM

Post #3532668

How much sun do you have your Impatiens in? They are one of my favorite annuals, I just can't go a year w/out them. I'm in zone 5 like you, and we have very high humidity, and around here they like part shade. They don't do well in full shade here...no blooms. I can have them in full sun here, but they require tons and tons of water...and sometimes the blooms fade terribly. What color are your blooms? That makes a difference in how much fade you're likely to get.
kls_01
Champaign, IL
(Zone 5b)

May 24, 2007
10:54 PM

Post #3533089

They're in mostly shade. They in a garden under a tree, it gets dapple shade during the day, and the east side gets a few hours morning sun and the west side gets a few hours afternoon sun. They seem to still be getting blooms, there are a lot of buds. They're kinda red/pink and an orange/salmon color. They may be more neon orange, not sure. I water them every day. If you mean fade is in the color bleaches out...they don't. They just get brown on the edges...that's all. They'd probably stay that way for awhile, but I take them off when they look like that.
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 25, 2007
11:06 PM

Post #3536914

You said you were feeding them. That may be it. Are you using a liquid fertilizer? How often are you using it? How much are you using? Are you getting it on the blooms?

If you're overfeeding the Impatiens that could be burning the flowers. You may want to try a slow release fertilizer instead of a liquid. Something along the lines of Osmocote should work well.
kls_01
Champaign, IL
(Zone 5b)

May 25, 2007
11:54 PM

Post #3537069

I'm using fertilizer you dilute in water...I think its 20-20-20. I've only used it once since I planted them in the bed, and they were doing it before. I did get the fertilizer on the blooms and leaves because it said that it had micronutrients and that you should wet the entire plant if its outside. So I did...that didn't really seem to hasten the browning. They don't look horrible, just the edges. Today we got rain(finally) and now its really humid. They look great now. I'm thinking they just were drying out because it wasn't humid enough(although I was watering everyday, I bet the air was still too dry, and its been pretty windy). I also went back and deadheaded properly...that could be why they look a little better. This is my first time with impatiens, and I think I like them. Even though I have to remove a lot of blooms, there seems to be plenty more new ones that show up the next day.

Kristie
Jaws2
Fort Payne, AL
(Zone 7a)

May 26, 2007
04:43 PM

Post #3538937

Hi guys! I'm new to the site too, but felt compeled to add my 2 cents on the original question.

I'd look around my area for things that are growing well. Here in north Alabama, it would be azaleas, forsythia, liriope, etc.

Rhododendron, honeysuckle, Cherokee rose and dogwood trees grow wild, so it would be hard to kill them unless you gave them too much attention.

Also ask around, especially neighbors who have established yards. They may give you clipings.

Home Depot guarantees their plants for a season, and they only sell things that are right for your area. Don't expect the employees to be horticultrists, but they may be able to steer you in the right direction.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

May 26, 2007
05:03 PM

Post #3538982

Maybe your Home Depots are different than the ones in the rest of the country, but in general Home Depot does NOT sell only things that are right for your area and you'll be lucky if the employees know anything beyond where in the store the garden center is. They do have that guarantee though so if you end up getting steered in the wrong direction at least you can get it replaced when it dies. You'd be better off looking for advice at a local nursery, they may not be perfect on only selling things that'll do well in your area and they may not always have as much knowledge as you'd like, but you're much more likely to get decent advice there. Some of them have guarantees on their plants too but some don't, so if that's something that's important to you make sure you ask about their policy before you buy.
darlindeb
Claremore, OK

May 27, 2007
03:32 PM

Post #3542032

If someone tells you a plant is INVASIVE, say, "NO THANK YOU" at this time of your gardening development.

There was mint in my garden before I got here and there will probably be mint here after I die. I use it from time to time. I give it away, but it is invasive if it has a spot it likes.

I know people who wish they hadn't had obediant plant, jersualem artichoke, mint, monkey grass, bambo, honey suckle and even four o'clocks. If you are considering a flower/plant go to the plant files at Dave's Garden and read the positive and negative comments left by other gardeners before you put it in the ground.

Perennials are great because they come back and you don't have to pay for them again.
However, I can't imagine spring without tulips and violas.

If I had to do it over again, I'd invest first in the trees I wanted. Then I'd buy, beg and swap for peonies. I don't know if they will grow in your 8b climate? We have peonies that have been in the family for over 50 years. I'd drive around in the spring and look at yards and ask the owner's questions. If you aren't that forward, I'd take pictures and ask a local nursery about the plant/tree. My grandmother had a stunning crabtree that was magnificent when it bloomed but very messy when the fruit started falling. Take a landscape class.

Photo of tulips with violas. Good luck!

Thumbnail by darlindeb
Click the image for an enlarged view.

Wyfe_of_Ent
Mobile, AL

May 29, 2007
11:47 AM

Post #3548748

Hello, Zeoplum!

I'm also a new gardener, and new to Mobile. I just posted that I highly recommend buying the Southern Living Garden Book to avoid frustration and wasted money - there are a lot of things that won't grow here that I was surprised about.

So far I've been having success with lantana, bougainvillea (especially since their care is essentially "benign neglect"), asclepias, cordyline/spike plant, asparagus fern, and star jasmine/confederate jasmine (which I think can grow invasively, so plant wisely).

I've been having a lot of struggles keeping these healthy, which has been great for learning, but frustrating: morning glories, sweet potato vines, brugmansia, verbena (supposed to be easy - I think I dead-headed flowers when I wasn't supposed to and it has stopped growing)...and still exploring!

Good luck! :)
Wyfe of Ent
zeoplum
Mobile, AL
(Zone 8b)

May 29, 2007
12:01 PM

Post #3548789

Wyfe_of_Ent,

Hi neighbor! Where did you move here from? I'm just curious to know how much of a climate change you'e endured by moving here? A lot of the plants you mentioned...well I've never even heard of them...which goes to show you how much of a newbie I am. Sounds like our levels of "newness" are a little different.

I've really gotten hooked on Daylilies lately. They seem to be easy to grow and I think the variety of bloom colors is so exciting! In fact, I spend way too much time looking at pictures and creating wish lists. Have you ever given them a try?

Stephanie
heathrjoy
Kersey, PA
(Zone 5a)

May 29, 2007
12:17 PM

Post #3548827

Just wanted to throw in my $0.02, hope no one minds...
Sweet Potato Vines (SPVs) and Brugs take a LOT of water, especially if in containers. Brugs are one of the heaviest feeders you'll find, so fertilize, fertilize, fertilize! Brugs are so gorgeous and the scent is spectacular, but they are so darn picky.

Lantana is a great plant, and the butterflies adore it. Up here it's an annual, probably perennial in your zone. (I'm jealous!) Lantana is another plant that I just can't go a year without having.

Oh, and the Morning Glories, don't fertilize them, that will cause foliage and no blooms. Plant them in poor soil and they will do incredible!
fitsandstarts
Toronto, ON
(Zone 5a)

May 29, 2007
12:18 PM

Post #3548829

Wow! Lots of great advice here!

My 2 cents is to avoid plants that "spread easily" -- my neighbour has spearmint, lily of the valley and some kind of orange lily thing, so, like it or not, I do too. In my grass, as well as in my garden bed.

If you don't want to have to be diligent about deadheading, I'd also be careful with plants that "readily self-seed". I have a hot, sunny garden out front, with fairly heavy soil so, liking the cottage garden style, I've filled it with echinachea, rudbeckia, bergamot, coreopsis and butterfly weed. They are so pretty and easy to grow, but last year I was away when the butterfly weed went to seed... It's not a disaster, as it doesn't spread underground, but I'll be pulling butterfly weed from my lawn for awhile, I think..
carrieebryan
Independence, MO
(Zone 6a)

May 29, 2007
02:04 PM

Post #3549221

Roses: both the easiest and difficult for beginners. It's like baking a cake: easy if you follow the directions carefully!

Roses that get blackspot have China rose in them, like Hybrid Teas, which is most of the ones in commerce. If you aim for an Old-Fashioned rose there's very little chance you'll get blackspot. Encourage the canes to grow horizontally, like, tie them to a cute rail fence, and they'll bloom like gangbusters. Prune back old, damaged, or weak canes and they'll go for years.
MiniPonyFarmer
Gilmer, TX
(Zone 8b)

April 13, 2009
09:51 PM

Post #6406496

I agree with carrie...
Roses can be very easy if you have the right location, soil, and use mulch. I've been growing roses since I was 15 years old and hadn't a clue. they can be tough to kill!
Jaywhacker
Kerrville, TX

April 15, 2009
02:36 AM

Post #6412450

Get the Thompson Morgan seed catalog. For each plant listed they show a code which indicates how difficult the plant is to propagate and care for. Look at all the plants listed as EE. E for easy to propagate and easy to care for. Browse through the EE plants to see what you might like to try.

I'm assuming you do wont to propagate and grow your own plants. If so, make your first year a learning year. You should play around with plants that bloom all summer (with deadheading) and mostly day-neutral plants. It is discouraging to a new gardener to grow a plant and then discover that you will have to wait until next year to see any blooms. Plant a few of the day neutral plants (partial list to follow) about every 2 weeks to gain experience propagating. Most of these plants will bloom within about 60 days of sowing and with proper care (more experience to be gained by you) will show color throughout your growing season. By succession planting, planting new seed about every two weeks, you will have a continuous flow of color throughout your garden and gain lots of valuable experience.

For your first year, stay away from plants that only bloom for short periods of time or only bloom in the spring or only bloom in the autumn.

Some plants that are easy and rewarding to try are ageratum (floss flower), Agrostemma, bachelor's button, cosmo's, globe amaranth, sunflower, strawflower, statice, nigella, scabiosa, and zinnia. You can propagate these flowers anytime during your growing season and expect to see blooms in approximately 60 to 70 days. They will bloom whether the amount of daylight is long or short. That is what is meant by "day neutral." Stick with the day neutrals to begin with and gain lots of experience in general plant propagation and aftercare and get to see the results of your efforts in a reasonable amount of time.

Zinnia's and sunflowers are bullet proof. You cant hardly kill them with a stick. :-) So is ageratum. Most of the plants I have listed are tough critters. It is probably better to start with the smaller version of plants like the smaller zinnias and sunflowers. Sunflowers are fun because they are quick to grow and bloom.

Don't drive yourself nuts worrying about deadheading. I'm not saying not to do it, it's just that you cannot prevent some seeds from falling to the ground and reseeding. Do stay away from some of the more rampant and aggressive spreaders but learn to live with some re-seeding.

The T&M seed catalog is a great resource. Here is hoping you a great first year.
flowerjen
central, NJ
(Zone 6b)

April 30, 2009
01:00 AM

Post #6482840

Oh gosh, I get the T&M catalog and never even noticed those codes...thanks Jay
EllaTiarella

(Zone 5b)

April 30, 2009
02:16 PM

Post #6484584

Roses are more difficult up here where black spot and winter temps can be a problem. You have to know what you are doing to keep them healthy.

I don't recommend Lilies of the Valley. They are invasive, and they have a short bloom period. The foliage is late to appear, too, and yellows off in the fall. I think generally for shade i'd rather have a patch of pachysandra. I am currently in the process of digging out my huge patch of Lilies of the Valley. They sent roots below the submerged bricks, invaded into many other things which will now be ruined. The roots are the dickens to get out if they are comingled with other things. If you do plant them, be sure you don't let them go where they are not wanted.

I guess that's good advice for any kind of spreading plant. Keep it from going where it's not wanted -- act preventatively, to save yourself headaches and hard work and ruined plants later.

Delphiniums require a fair amount of knowledge and care. And the plants only live roughly 3 years. You might want to get some experience under your belt first.




neworleansdude
New Orleans, LA
(Zone 9b)

May 01, 2009
01:51 AM

Post #6487435

Hi Zeo...I grew up in Mobile and now live in the Big Sleazy (er...Easy).

It all depends on what you want to do with your yard. The bamboo sounds sorta bad, even if you remove everything from you property if you share a fence line and they don't want to cut theirs down(and dig it up) you'll just have to make it a part of your daily battle.

Other invasives that I kinda think are cool but you should stay away from if you want the 'landscaped lawn' vs. 'au natural':

Lantana
Alligator plants
Morning glories
Oxalis
Gingers (possibly)
Mints
Spiderwort

Plants that are easy there:

Marigold
Zinnia
Dianthus
Begonia
Tomato
Cucumber
Basil
Cosmos
most Ferns
Elephant ears (lil' ones or big ones, I think most are in the calidium family)
Coleus

Keep in mind that you should know about how much sun each area of your yard is going to get, and plant accordingly.

Also think about if you want more flowers (ornamentals), herbs, veggies, shrubs...I have to state it for a fellow Mobilian...I do not like Azaleias- pretty for the month they bloom but a crap shrub after that. My gf and I are looking to move into a new house in the next month and I'm trying to figure out a way to convince her to let me dig them up and sell them or just give them away- I couldnt' just dig them up and throw them away mind you, that would be a waste because I know some people do like them.

Oh, I should tell you about bulbs also...I never tried them in Mobile, been in N.O. for about 7 years now and this last winter was the first time I tried them. Had good luck with muscari and freesia, okay with iris, and not so good with some others. But bulb time for down here is plant between Oct. and Jan. generally.

Peace out and happy planting.

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