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This is driving me nuts...Our dryer is super-big capacity and does great for drying clothes. But comforters and sheets end up in a giant, tightly-rolled wad after only a few minutes in there. I've tried those rubber dryer balls, so don't even mention 'em. LOL What can I do to dry this stuff, short of hanging it up to dry it?
These things are great for big loads of bluejeans or towels -- individual articles of clothing -- try and dry a big comforter or bedspread. I reckon we should put up a clothesline? Then I'll have to clean bird poop off the linens. LOL
I wonder why it's so different? when i had my "normal' sized Kenmore (at my last house) i never had this problem... and for the BIG stuff, you'd go to the laundomat - where they have big over sized driers -- and it didnt happen there.
Next time i wash my sheets -- I'll pay closer attention to if they wad up or not...and what i may be doing differently, cuz it doesnt happen all the time.
Heck .. As sure as I'd throw some other lil item in there with the 'big' shtuffs (like a small pillow in with a blanket, spread or comforter) - they'd just roll up around that too!! .. LOL ..
My only resolve has been to set my dryer for a few minutes at a time: like 10 minutes or so (to prevent wasted energy) - and make a point to yank it out, plump it about a bit and chunk her back in there for another 10 minutes or so. Then, repeat .. as necessary.
My king bed sheets don't have near the problem tho' - unless I chunk the fitted AND the flat sheet in, together! Gotta keep'em separated, or they'll tie up in fights! (hee)
Apparently, a lot has to do with the greater mass and weight of such items as spreads and comforters ..
Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one driven to distraction by 'em. Some of our comforters did wad up at the laundromat, come to think of it. They were the huge dryers. I know I about burned myself a few times when taking them out to re-arrange them!
I finally gave up tonight and just hung the heavy cotton bedspread over the clothes rod we have in the basement. At least there's a dehumidifier going, so it will have help drying. But I have a fluffier comforter in the wash right now. Ugh. ;)
I don't have a dryer. Remember when they used to tell you to put clean tennis shoes in the dryer with a down comforter to keep the down from being lumpy? I wonder if something heavier like a clean tennis shoes might keep the large blanket or sheets from tying themselves into a knot.
i've done the gym shoes in with comforters before... can't recall if it made a difference at all though. and the tennis balls are pretty much the same concept as the "drier balls" -- mine just get stuck inside the "wad" -- and usually suck inside the 'large pocket corners' of the bottom sheet. dont think those balls do much good with bedding.
I have the same problem. And the trouble with them wadding up is that they are so wrinkled you almost have to iron them. I have tried the tennis balls with sheets. They weren't big enough. I will have to try the shoes. It is the sheets I have the most trouble with. If anyone does come up with a solution, let us know.
Have a good day!
fyi - our dryer is a 9 year old Amana with no bells or whistles except for the rack. I just used it again today to dry a delicate quilt for my MIL that she would have spent a fortune on sending out to a cleaner...not to mention the chemicals - UGGGHHHH.
I wouldn't think so - even if the manufacturer doesn't have an accessory, I'm thinking you could devise something that will clear the paddles if your dryer has them. Something like a cookie cooling rack?
BTW, even a dryer that autoreverses won't solve this problem. We have the ultra-fancy F&P topload dryer, which autoreverses automatically. It works nicely on everything but our CA king-size, extra deep pocket sheets - just like in the photo, the fitted sheet catches the flat sheet and pillowcases inside and wraps itself into a wad.
Now, it doesn't do it every time, and it certainly happens LESS than with our old Kenmore heavy-duty dryer. But I'd say about 20-25% of the time, it still happens.
OH -- dont get me started on these "fancy" appliances!! they all have these computer boards/chips in them that fail at around the 3 year mark, and NOT cheap to replace.
my washer and drier went in the same week and my Frig [another Maytag] went a year later!!
so much for that Maytag quality... that 'ole repairman just doesnt sit around anymore... he's workin' like dog!
Just gimme a washer and drier with push buttons and turn knobs and i'll be a happy camper.
I washed and dried a light-weight duvet yesterday. I spent 30 minutes trying to untangle it. Finally my brother stepped in and got it undone. But, like you say, it was so wrinkled I got to wet it again and hang it out on the line. Smells better anyway.
Let me say how glad I was to see the photo of what I refer to as my "turd" laundry. It drives me so crazy that I have taken to drying the sheets on the line all the time instead of occasionally.
Thanks Dea as I have a relatively new Maytag and it has that clothes rack but I have never used it. I will give it a try with the next load of sheets and see how that works. I have the FL washer so the clothes spin out almost dry in the first place so perhaps the rack and a short cycle will remedy this problem.
Out of curiosity I called 2 mfgrs and they both gave me the same solution: to add a couple of towels or a couple of jeans to balance the load. Sheets are considered "light", heavy items such as towels help balance the load.
I will try that next time and will report here accordingly.
I put a queen-size sheet set in the dryer with a pair of jeans and one towel and set on delicate drying, they did not wad. However, since I didn't remove the clothes right away, I decided to "freshen up" and set them on high for 10 min. I had a wad!
I think that a setting where they tumble slowly (such as delicate drying/perm. press drying) is more effective than just adding "heavy" items such as jeans, towels, etc.
Hello. Just found this forum when I went looking for a way to solve the bunching up problem in my dryer. Who knew it had a name? I thought maybe my dryer was off balance or something. Thank you for letting me know I'm not doing something wrong.
I will be looking for one of those shelves. I've already tried the towel thing, the tennis shoe thing (with and without laces - learned that the hard way ) and the pillow thing. The very large comforters, bedspreads and duvet covers still get wadded up, no matter what I do. Thank you for posting about that shelf. Mine is also a super large capacity.
Someone posted about wanting a washer and dryer without all the electronic gew-gaws...you might take a look at Speed Queen. Very reasonably priced, buttons and dials instead of electronics, best warranty in the business and washers and dryers are all they do. I wanted a commercial quality set because I have lots of dogs and I use old comforters and blankets as crate pads and furniture covers. I wash a lot of big loads. Often. Except for the "dryer wad" problem (thank you so much for that moniker!), I have been extremely happy with mine.
One of the things that convinced me to go with Speed Queen is the fact that the laundry mat in my town has some gold colored Speed Queens still in use. They haven't made a gold colored appliance in 30 years. And these things still work - and work well - after having been in a commercial setting for that long. The company assured me that the washers and dryers for home use are exactly the same as the ones used in public laundry mats...just without the coin operated thingy.
Jeeze...I sound like an advertisement for Speed Queen, don't I? Sorry. Just want to add that I went with a gas dryer since my house is already plumbed for natural gas. It really does dry faster than my old electric one. Even with the wadding problem, most of my comforters are dry in about 40 minutes.
Hopefully my Maytags will last a long time... they always used to (hence the Maytag repairman that never worked in those commercials) -- that is why i went with maytag -- reputation (my mom had one that was still running after 25+ yrs, and my old one - purchased in 1989 is still running)
SO... hopefully this one will run til i move, then i'll look into Speed Queen... anything without all the electronic gew-gaws
My old GE's lasted 25 years. But the last couple of years I was having to really baby the dryer and it took forever to dry anything. I was doing laundry for a week every time I changed the dogs' bedding. Now I'm done in a couple of days.
I called the Speed Queen company when I was shopping for my washer and dryer. I thought I might like a front loader instead of the top loader I had always had. Interestingly enough, they told me that with the kind of loads I do most often - with the dog hair and dirt - that I would be better off sticking with a top loader. They told me that the pump on a top loader doesn't have to work as hard as one on a front loader and I wouldn't have as many problems with it getting clogged up.
I think they were right. I have a friend who got one of the Maytag Neptunes with all the bells and whistles and he's replacing his pump about every other year. And both my washer and dryer didn't cost as much as just the washer he got.
I'm with you on the no electronics thing. I don't even like that in my vehicles and that's getting harder and harder to find. I wanted a self cleaning gas oven - can't find one without an electronic touch pad. Oh well, I don't use it much anyway. LOL!
I did a set of queen sheets today but did not dry. Then washed a load of reg. clothes, added the the wet sheets and voila. No dryer wad. I guess this is what I'll do from now on. Combine sheets with a load of clothes.
I was so glad to find this discussion and realize I'm not the only one frustrated with this dilemma. I'm going to try that suggestion about the rack. I have a couple of other ideas in mind that I want to experiment with. If I have any luck, you can be certain I'll post here.
DrPepper, I don't know where you get your info. Alliance Laundry Systems only makes commercial machines. All the Maytag machines with models beginning SAV are speed queen household machines. Maytag also owns the Amana line.
8-16-12 -- My solution to de-ball sheets is to fold them loosely and lay them diagonally across the bottom of the dryer, so the ends rotate out of sync. It works about 50% of the time. My GE dryer doesn't have a rack, but I'll try (1) folding the sheets flat as if putting them away, and (2) drying them at the knits/delicates heat instead of permanent press. Thanks to all for the idea exchange. :-))
I hate front loaders. If I have to drive to Mexico to buy my next washer I will find a top loader.
Thank God I haven't had dryer trouble with my new Maytag washer/dryer, that would just be the last straw.
They can always order a top load machine for you. Front load machines are more expensive all around, so they probably make more money in sales. Front loaders also do a better job of cleaning. They use less water than most top load machines with some exceptions. There are a few top loaders that are also water savers. High efficiency (HE) machines clean in a different manner, thus the need for HE detergent. They use less water and have no tolerance for oversudsing.
If you are buying a washer to stack a dryer on top of it (ugh!), it will always be a front load machine. The same old saw: if you don't overload and/or oversoap, it will last forever. Today's top load machines, regardless of manufacturer or country of origin, won't perform like your good old machines. Just because your neighbor loves his/her appliance does not mean that you will, too.
DH always teases me about being "gadget crazy" but I bought these dryer balls and they really do work and totally eliminate dryer wad. It's also supposed to eliminate static electricity and it must be true b/c I stopped using dryer softener sheets and my clothes are nice and soft and not staticky.
So, now that I use HE detergent, resist the impulse to use too much of it and have my dryer balls, I don't mind my front loader at all.
Vossner, we did a service call where the customer claimed that the dryer balls ruined her landlord's brand new dryer by making holes in the drum. The product she used was similar to yours but made by a soap manufacturer. We looked at the dryer with the damaged drum, which she claimed was caused by the product. We could not figure out any way that could have happened from the dryer balls. Please let me know if yours do any damage, although I cannot see how.
I can't see how they can cause damage either. You can see from the first pic that the balls are pliable. Also, the balls get in the clothes so I don't see how they ever come in direct contact w/ the drum. Finally, the design is such that the protruding teeth reduce the actual surface that comes in contact with the drum, if ever. Some people had suggested using tennis balls to reduce wad but I resisted idea precisely b/c I thought the impact against drum would be great and I wondered if dryer heat would cause rubber in tennis balls to release any sort of smell in my clothing.
2nd pic: I did stop using sheets for clothing, but my last load was the puppie's bed and i wanted it extra fluffy and sweet smelling...
Cathy, my guess would have been that possibly a belt buckle, a shoe or something hard left inside a pocket is what damaged your client's drum.
Cathy, about the dryer sheets, my repairman tells me they gunk up the vent pipe, have you found that to be true? I never needed them with my old washer/dryer, the towels always came out fluffy. WIth the new set however the towels are always scratchy even though I use very little detergent, an extra rinse and I dry them on the towel setting.
My dryer vent pipe is longer than it should be so I have to be careful, it is difficult to clean.
ever since i started adding vinegar to my 'rinse' cycle, i have never had the need for drier sheets -- which i always hated using anyways. and vinegar is cheap enough. I actually add it in the "bleach" and "Softener" cups in the washer [top loader]
That is a good idea, I'll try it. I could never understand why people use those dryer sheets for towels anyway, they coat the fibers with parafin so the towels are no longer absorbant. I do use the sheets for the few synthetic clothes I have, they cut down on the static in the winter.
Ardesia, dryer sheets should not get to the ducting. When you remove the laundry, you should be able to pull out the sheet(s) you added. It is true that any fabric softener frequent use kills the absorbency of towels.
The biggest deal with the dryer sheets is that they can gunk up the filter. You can still see through it, but the air is not flowing through properly. If you want to see if this is so, take out the filter, which is usually some sort of nylon or otherwise nonflammable mesh. Take it to the sink and turn horizontal. Turn on the water in a slow stream, and see if the water beads up or goes through the holes. If it beads up, the fabric softener is impeding proper dryer use. If it goes through, you are good to go. If the water won't go through, most people replace the filter. It does not happen often, but when it does, it is a real problem.
I always suggest vinegar for over sudsing, and the technicians tell me it just does not work. I won't tell you what they recommend.
It must have been the filter he was talking about. My repairperson also recommends vinegar. When the last dishwasher got old and finicky it oversudsed for some reason and vinegar was the only thing that would kill the suds.
Vossner, it is not just dryer sheets diminishing absorbency; it hold true for liquid fabric softener even more.
Manufacturer's suggested detergent for both the machine and the detergent are about double what you should use. It wasn't so critical for our old top loaders, but over the years washers have changed the volume of water they use. They are now much less tolerant of over-soaping because they use so much less water. This holds true for dishwashers as well. It does not hurt to send clothes through an extra final rinse of water only, especially if you have issues with sensitive skin.
I've never used the liquid softener so I s/b OK. But of course mfgrs are going to tell you to use more than needed, LOL. I hadn't considered the fact that new machines use so much less water. thanks for the explanation, you are always so helpful.
Ditto, Cathy you are always a tremendous help. Soooo, I have another question for you. What are your thoughts on the extended warranties for the new washer/dryers? I have the Samsung WF431Ab and VD431AE. I have another few weeks to make up my mind about buying them. Price is not too bad at all but...
If you don't oversoap and overload, you can expect few problems. The really expensive repairs involve the motor and electronic parts. The only thing I know about extended warranties is that there are 2 kinds. One from the manufacturing company and the other from a non-related company. The store selling the warranty usually makes the most money from the outside company warranty. Generally the first year of the contract is very little as most of the parts are already covered by the manufacturer. With each successive year, the renewal price rises. Generally you cannot purchase a second or third year contract if you don't have one for the prior year. Also if the malfunction is caused by you, it might not be covered.I don't know enough about samsung washers, but they make some of the maytag front loaders (you would not be likely to know it), and they have been good machines. Unlike Maytag, Whirlpool, GE and Electrolux, purchasing parts for Samsung appliances is only from certain distributors, so I have somewhat limited knowledge.
Thanks, interesting! My dealer does not sell warranties, he told me they are too much trouble. My son, who has had his maytag repaired too often tells me everyone should have the warranty. I am not sure I like this washer enough to repair it if something major ever happened.
BTW, I have solved the nasty odor problem, I found Clorox Washing Machine Cleaner works very well for me.
Ardie, I will check the clorox brand cleaner. I used a product I get online but I would prefer to get something off-rack. By now many people/mfgrs are addressing the problem so it's not like my internet guy is the ONLY solution out there.
DH refuses to buy warranties; however, he will favor the products which offer the longest (free) warranties. He says that if we have to worry about item breaking down that soon, we don't need to purchase. OTOH, we have a relative who makes a living at selling extended warranties and he makes a killing. His strategy: scaring the pants of the not-so-technically inclined as they are the best customers.
Just think, in another 10 years all the buzz will be about the marvelous top loading machines, hee hee.
LOL, I should have listened to my repairman and stayed with a top loader. The only reason I was interested in the warranties is because my son, who had a Maytag top loader and now has the LG, has had lots of problems and suggested it. We have never bought an extended warranty for an appliance but we do buy them for the cars and have gotten our money back many times over.
well, who knew. Here I was, priding myself about not using too much detergent but I have proof that I do overuse. I was doing a load of colors and 2 white pieces were in it so naturally, colors ran and pieces were no longer white. So, I put them in water w/ a little clorox and look how much soap is still in them!
Kathy, I made it a point to carefully measure the detergent (per the little Tide scoop) and programmed and extra rinse. Despite of this, lots of soap still in the clothes, as you can see in the pic.
I'm posting this as perhaps some of you think that they don't oversoap, but you might...
I'm going to cut back on the amount of soap I use in our Frigidaire front-loader and see how little I can use and still have clean clothes. I use vinegar in with the wash cycle, just putting a cup in as a chaser to the detergent, for perspiration odors. I do like my fabric softener, except on towels.
We've had our front-loader since 2003 and have only needed one repair. It wasn't draining properly. It turned out the problem was a simple one - some loose change that made its way into the loads through the years. We learned firsthand that a nickel is just the right size to block the outtake hose. LOL The repairman we use is terrific, minimal charges and honest. Sometimes they don't even charge the minimum service call when they come out for something simple. We're very glad for that!
We've never had any problems with mold or stink in ours. I guess different front loaders have different designs for those door gaskets. I remember Dea saying she'd found socks stuck in her washer's door gasket. LOL
One thing I do really like about front-loaders is how you can wash fluffy comforters, dog beds or pillows in them. With any top-loader we've had, items like that tended to float to the surface because of the air inside them, then just kind of shimmy around on the surface of the water. With the front-loader, bulkier, fluffy items like that are saturated as they tumble and get clean.
We did learn how jacked up fiberfill pillows can get in that super-fast final spin, though. RIP, favorite pillow. LOL
I started a thread with homemade laundry soaps here on DG - blast from the past. Anymore, though, I'd rather spend the money and get Tide. My mother-in-law lives with us and she loves Tide, plus tends to be the one who picks up more when we run out.
Vossner, only premium brands have warranties that exceed a year. That pretty much extends across the board. So you pay for the warranty one way of the other. Those extended warranties that Vossner is talking about are those to which I am referring. We take out insurance policies on everything from life to cars to stains on furniture. It is always a crap shoot. On appliances, the more electronics, the more likely it is to be a costly repair as there is no way around it. My sister is on Medicare. She won't take out supplemental insurance because she doesn't think she'll be that sick. Go figure.
I thought I'd like to put my 2 cents in on laundry detergent. I buy only Charlie's soap, and I buy it online 2 gallons at a time. When I bought my first front loader I was in shock at the price of the HE soap. I discovered Charlie's in my quest for cheaper HE soap. It was originally made as the end manufacturing process for clothing. It's the "cleanest" soap I've ever used and I was an avid "Tide" user. Just gets the clothes clean and doesn't leave any soapy or smelly stuff behind. Check it out at: http://www.charliesoap.com/
It's also great for those of us who are allergic to scents. I have converted many of washer woman, LOL.
High Efficiency detergent is exactly the same price as non-HE detergent. It might not have been 12 years ago when fewer companies sold it, but it has been for the last several years. Almost every brand has HE detergents, and the pricing is competitive.
The makeup of HE detergents is such that they don't have the same surfactants which produce suds and have a different chemical composition for cleaning. The products are not interchangeable unless advertised as such.
If your grocery charges more for HE detergent, make certain to tell the management to wake up.
I see charlie's is safe for high efficiency washers. I think I'll try it. I smell everything before buying.