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Kitchens: I'm broke, would you be my kitchen designer? ;-D

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:07 PM

Post #3797715

Ok, are you hooked on HGTV remodel shows like I am? I just wish I could have someone walk in and tell me how for $2,000 they're going to make my kitchen (ok, my whole house) look awesome!! Well, since that's not happening and I'm no designer, please take a moment to look at these pics and tell me what you might do. I'm open to anything, but affordable is key. Also, we are not diy'ers, (unfortunately), but I'm willing to try.

I am bothered by the cabinets. They are busted up in a lot of places and even the "nice" sections look overglazed from years of trying to spiff them up. Also, there are no windows in this kitchen, so it seems dark to me. I am contemplating painting the cabinets to lighten up the look. Our open floor plan means you see the cabinets when you first walk in the door.

We are definitely replacing the floor. I would love laminate, but we found some affordable self-stick vinyl tile and are putting it in our entryway tonight. Dh thinks it should match that and it actually does look good, so I think we'll go with that. It is a fake stone look. If we were to replace the countertops (which I would LOVE to do) would it need to be a really subtle design, since there is one on the flooring?

Also, we added cabinets and shelving to the dining room to create a computer space. I will attach pics. It has a green/taupe/black speckled laminate countertop. The walls are painted a yellow beige. (the computer area came AFTER I had painted the yellowy color on the wall.)

I think we could swing a new stainless and black microwave. That seems like an affordable upgrade that would be very visible. Other appliances will likely have to stay. (Maybe something could "accidentally" break down soon?? hmm...) I also want to get rid of the 1980's shiny brass light fixture, but not sure what I would want in its place.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR ANY INPUT!! Be honest, you won't hurt my feelings. I thought this would be a lot of fun to get some input from others.

Robin ;-D

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:10 PM

Post #3797736

walking into my kitchen - isn't it enormous! lol! ;-)

There is actually VERY little counter space for working, but see how much there is if I were to replace it?

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:19 PM

Post #3797786

Here's the image from the living/dining room.

Oh yes, that's Sam. lol! :-)

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:37 PM

Post #3797859

standing in the kitchen, facing out.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:38 PM

Post #3797864

and the cabinets in the hallway just outside the kitchen.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:41 PM

Post #3797877

That pic above looks darker than it actually is - but see how bunged up the woodwork is? Whenever I've used something to try and blend out scratches it soaks into those really really worn spots and they show up even more.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:43 PM

Post #3797889

Here is the dining area that the kitchen overlooks. We added a computer counter and some shelving above (which is REALLY junky looking right now - time to sort some paper piles! Please excuse!!)

This pic is taken from the hall so I could show the color of the cabinets.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:44 PM

Post #3797896

A close up of the woodwork and counter in dining area.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
9:49 PM

Post #3797925

here's the new tile we are most likely using.

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

July 30, 2007
10:01 PM

Post #3797998

You could paint your cabinets and then glaze them
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hi_kitchens/article/0,2037,DIY_13925_2480370,00.html
I would use black. I'd also add some nickle knobs or pulls onto the cabinets. You don't have any turns or corners in the counter tops that I can see, so HD or Lowe's has counter tops in stock, for not much money. If that's where you got the one in the DR, I'd use them again in the kitchen. They appear to have black in them? For the light fixture which I can't see, if you like the stainless steel look, go for something in nickel or black or a combo of the 2. Either spray paint the one you have, or go to HD or Lowe's and find a cheap one. I'm not big into yellow and the paint color will depend on what you want to paint the cabinets. If the counters do have black in them, I'd go white with a black glaze. I'd probably lean towards a more mustard color on the walls.

All in all, I think it's a cute kitchen with many many possibilities. You just need to figure out what you want.

Oh, I wanted to say that I have a black and stainless microwave. I know wish I just had just gone with black. In your kitchen, I think I'd go for the white ones. White cabinets with a black glaze, nickel knobs or pulls and white appliances...since your sink is white and looks like it's in good condition.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 30, 2007
10:56 PM

Post #3798223

Hmmm...that's an interesting idea about using the same counter as in the DR. I hadn't even thought of that and it would certainly be about the most affordable way to go as well as add cohesion to the two rooms.

Here's a close-up of the counter next to the flooring we'll likely use. Do they go together??

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

July 30, 2007
11:41 PM

Post #3798372

In my opinion Robin, yes, they go together. It would add cohesion, otherwise it'll just look all jumbled. Rooms don't have to be the same color to me, but they should flow together. Plus, I like that counter top!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

July 31, 2007
4:47 AM

Post #3799656

My head is just swimming with ideas now. I am a "silver" person and would love to add some silver hardware, but there is so MUCH brass in this house and some of the replacements we've done over the last few years has been the brushed bronze type hardware, I may stay with that. (Especially if we end up not replacing any appliances and there is no stainless to capitalize upon.)

I'm glad the sink LOOKS nice, we did replace the faucet and sprayer. I think the sink is porcelain and is pretty scratched up. I can use Clorox CleanUp on it and it looks nice, but gets dingy again in no time. Also, the rubber thing in the drain by the disposal is ratty and torn up and the "catch" on the right side of the sink is completely gone, so I keep a strainer in there all the time for fear of losing silverware or something worse down it. I actually looked at some sinks online last night. I was sort of entertaining the idea of a stainless sink, but now that I think about the green and black countertop, maybe a recessed (underfitted??) black sink with silver hardware would look cool?! Sounds expensive, but might really make the kitchen a "wow" factor. I originally did not want to buy this house because the kitchen was so small. I said no immediately and didn't even consider the house until we continued to look and couldn't find anything in our price range.

One thing I neglected to mention is this. I am motivated to make this house nice WHILE we are living in it and at the same time know that we may not be here much longer. (1-4 years at most) So WHEN we move, I really hope to have the luxury of selling quickly and for a nice price. (I think we got a good deal when we bought it and the area is really expanding with a new high school nearby and lots of new shopping, etc.) I mentioned those HGTV shows like Designed to Sell and it kills me that people get granite countertops and all these updates right before they move! I wouldn't want to leave!! ;-)

Thanks a bunch for your input, Terry, and I would LOVE to hear from anyone else, no matter what your ideas may be!!

Here's a pic that lets you see the light fixture and more of the "bar" area. A neighbor extended the upper counter top and installed shelves & drawers underneath. If we were to do that, it could match the opposing wall, but would make the dining area MUCH smaller. For me personally, I would rather have a place to sit at the computer and extra storage space than a spacious dining area. If we were to do something like that, we could even do flooring to match what we do in the kitchen to get rid of the carpet, (which I hate underneath the eating area anyway. Maybe we could accentuate it as a bar area? Probably trying to squeeze too much in a small space. Just thinking though...

Thanks! Robin ;-D

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jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

July 31, 2007
4:22 PM

Post #3801137

Your kitchen is small and dark, so I would NOT paint the cabs black. I think you'd find that with an open plan, the eye is going to be drawn to a "Black Hole" when walking in the door.

I agree your floor tiles and countertop look good together. Take a clue from the photo you posted under "here's the new tile we are most likely using" - your white appliance looks great with the tile, and would be fine with the countertop as well. Be aware that there are a zillion shades of white, so take your time and pick a shade to paint your cabs that will work with all three elements: appliances (usually a cool white), tiles and counters (which might respond better to a warmer tone).

Find a new light fixture on sale. Try craigslist, eBay, or even amazon.com's 70% lighting sale. You need something stronger; I'd be using at least three 75 watt bulbs and would prefer three 100-watt bulbs. If you prefer silver, use silver. It'll match your faucet, and nobody will care that you have a different metal in the kitchen fixture than in other places. I've found very handsome fixtures that use both chrome and brass trim, so you could use something like that to 'bridge' the two.

Do you plan to use the new countertop pattern to replace the counter between the kitchen and DR as well? If not, I noticed you have nice sharp edges on that laminate. You could tile it VERY easily, and that would add a beautiful design element to your kitchen. Take a class in tiling at HDepot or Lowe's, and you'll find that with a little care and very minimal expense, you can do it just as well as any pro. Rent a tile saw, or even borrow one from a handy friend.

I would also not buy a black sink, unless it's the charcoal granite-patterned type like Silgranit or Swanstone. Black glossy sinks are like stainless steel - unless you wipe them down after every use, they will water spot and look horrible. If you don't like that kind of constant maintenance, get something more sensible that needs less upkeep. There are some stainless sinks with the new brushed surface that spot much less (or actually, you could just "brush" an inexpensive stainless sink yourself with a scrubbie and Comet cleanser, to produce instant "patina").

Painting cabs takes a lot of time. Prep work is everything, and will take you far longer than you think. If you don't do the job properly, however, it won't last. You can't take the "I'm not going to be here very long" mentality, because actually if you ARE going to sell, you really do not want to have to go through the whole painting thing twice (e.g., doing it again before you sell because it looks like crap again).

Go to a good paint store and talk to the salesmen - preferably during the weekdays when they have more time. Tell them what you are doing and that you intend to prime, paint, and seal your cabs properly. Latex will work fine, but you want good brushes, not el cheapo ones. Pick your paint color. Get several sample jars, if you need to, and paint a few 8x10" foamcore boards, or anything with a base white coat, to hold up under various lights to make sure the shade will blend next to your appliances yet work with the tiles/counters.

You want satin or semi-gloss paint. I'd prefer satin because it's more forgiving. Semi-gloss will show up every imperfection when the light casts shadows downwards.

Take the doors off. Remove all the drawers. Wash everything down with TSP, twice if you have to. Sand everything properly - doors, drawers, and framework. This is why your "touchups" don't work. You need to take ALL the finish off and then refinish them properly.

Prime them; let dry, then paint. Two thin coats are better than one thick one. Finish with a polyurethane; make sure the poly is the same finish (satin or semi) as the paint. Allow ADEQUATE drying time between all coats. Do not take the suggested times on the paintcan as gospel truth. Drying time varies enormously, depending upon temp and humidity. Longer is always better.

Remember that all paint, bar none, does not fully cure for 30 days! Treat everything very gently for the first month and after that, fairly minimal care should suffice for at least 5-10 years, depending upon wear & tear. Keep your kids out of the kitchen with their toy bikes and stuff (which wouldn't be safe anyway in such a small kitchen) to avoid the dents and dings that will mar your paint surface since painted surfaces cannot be repaired easily.

Done properly, you'll find it easy to clean the painted surfaces. Never use ammonia; it will strip the paint away. A light hand with the sponge and soapy water should suffice.

Good luck!
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

July 31, 2007
4:27 PM

Post #3801156

BTW, make sure you check out this thread in the home decorating forum: the OP is painting their cabs (three coats with sealer!) and you can see how it looks. The white cabs and tile floor are very similar in colors to what I envision your kitchen to be.
http://davesgarden.com/forums/fp.php?pid=1081133
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

July 31, 2007
9:38 PM

Post #3802333

In my head, the amount of brass in the rest of the house doesn't matter. I redid this kitchen when we bought this old house. We bought in Dec of 05, kitchen was done in something like May of 05. We didn't live here, too much to do! Anyway, my light fixture is the burnished bronze, but my hardware on the cabinets is nickel. I went with a porcelain sink, because it just seems to go with an 111 yr old house. You can change out those strainers in there and keep the sink. Being that you're not going to really be there long, I wouldn't put in a whole lot of money, but rather do things to make it more up to date.

I guess I haven't seen Design To Sell, because I've never seen any of the fix up before we move shows, do any granite. Granite works if you're in a area where granite is expected. I don't live in such an area, and I like laminate anyway...lol. I'm not really understanding what you mean when you say that there's a lot of brass. Light fixtures and door knobs? Fixtures are pretty cheap at HD, I'd change them out when I had a few extra dollars. I wouldn't worry about the door knobs.

I'm going to toss in a couple pictures of my kitchen so you can see the light fixture and then the nickel knobs and pulls that I picked. This room is really hard to take a photo of because it always seems I'm trying in the afternoon and the room faces west.

I see some one else has posted since I first started this, this AM...lol. I'm not talking about painting your cabinets black, I'm saying to use a black glaze over the white paint. It can be as dark or as light as you like. Personally, with kids and my own preference, white cabinets would never work for me. I looked at homes that had white cabinets when we were moving to TN and I passed them over because I didn't want to deal with grubby hand prints all over the white.

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

July 31, 2007
9:41 PM

Post #3802346

Here's the other side. This is an old house and the kitchen is laid out weird. I have 2 windows, a door that goes outside, the opening to the DR, the basement door, the opening to the servant stairs, and the door to the 1/2 bath. All in one room!

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 1, 2007
4:11 AM

Post #3803881

I am simply wowed by all the helpful comments and suggestions! Thank you SO MUCH! Keep 'em coming! ;-D Terry, your kitchen is REALLY beautiful! Love the light fixture! ;-)

I've noticed when I look through magazines and I see a kitchen I love, it often has beautiful wood cabinetry, sometimes with dark hardware and sometimes silver. (Terry, if my cabinets were as beautiful as yours, I would be thrilled!) So a part of me thinks it might be a mistake to paint, but the purpose is to lighten the room. So tonight I thought, why not start with the extra bathroom? I *know* I would like that to be painted white and it 's a very small job. I could see how I like it and how difficult it is. It just seems somehow like the wood in the kitchen "spreads" so far. There's the pantry in the hall and all this trim, I feel like I would be unsure where to stop exactly.

You guys are probably right, I shouldn't worry about all the gold stuff throughout the house and what I think really sticks out, I should just replace. The dining room has the silver accents and the sink faucet, but I really like the brushed copper look!

Here's a sample of a hardware I was looking at:
black
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100355142&N=10000003 90401 524085&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125

brushed copper
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100337257&N=10000003 90401 524085&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125

silver
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100000283&categoryID=524085


I'm pretty unsure on what type of light fixture would work well, but here's something I was considering (have no idea what size would work best - I would not be buying these online, just window shopping):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GFT7QW/ref=wl_itt_dp/103-9226232-7215806?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2TCSSJTIPEKKJ&colid=3TBGS1KPVS9KI

Oh and here's a black sink. I would for sure want a "matte" finish:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=30154-1475-DGR3322-1&lpage=none
(Not thinking too seriously about replacing the sink - I think dh would think I'm nuts, but it would look GREAT if I did the green/black counter top in there!!!)



This message was edited Jul 31, 2007 11:34 PM

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 1, 2007
4:14 AM

Post #3803889

and the other single cabinet. This shouldn't be *too* difficult and as you can see, it NEEDS it! A nice creamy white, maybe some light sage green walls and I'd either be a painting pro or sick of painting! It would give my husband a chance to see the cabinets painted. When I subtlely mentioned the kitchen project to him tonight, I think he said, "no way." lol I'm going to have to do this slowly and sneakily. ;-D

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 1, 2007
4:19 AM

Post #3803896

Oh, and by the way, I'm not discounting the tile idea either. I think it might be more work (depending on if my husband will help me install laminate counters,) but potentially a really cool look! I feel it might better address the issue of the laminate that creeps up the wall so high. I might have to use some tile anyhow. ??
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 1, 2007
3:36 PM

Post #3805188

Well, if you want to keep the woodgrain you could always whitewash it, but the problem with that is two-fold: your oak cabs have a very strong grain and whitewashing frankly comes out better when the oak is less strongly grained (I have a whitewashed oak bath cab). More importantly, whitewashing is really "out" as a look and I don't think it would be a great selling point. In your situation you will need to consider resale if you are serious about selling soon (anything within 5 yrs in RE is considered 'soon').

I would also strongly suggest you urge your DH to consider changing out the sink when the cabs are done. It is much easier and less work to change both at once, and a good-looking sink is a real pleaser when buyers are looking at your house.

If you paint the cabs white, rethink your microwave. I'd get one to match the cabs instead. I started in 1990 with a black stove in a bisque cabinet kitchen. When I replaced the stove with a bisque colored range in 2001, I was pleased by how much better it looked. When I look at the photos now of my black range amidst light-colored cabs, it really does look like a 'black hole', LOL!

BTW, I can't tell - is your backsplash area painted white or is that laminate? Anyway, if you go with white cabs, I'd pick a nice medium-tone paint to spark up the kitchen. It's such a small area, you could give it that "wow" factor without spending too much $$$.

Also, the wood that faces the DR, underneath your dividing counter? I'd leave that section alone and not paint or stain it, just refinish it. A little wood is nice, it's just that too much is overwhelming in your small space.

All the knobs you picked are nice, although very expensive. The lighting fixture is beautiful, but way underpowered for what you need. Uplights need to be much stronger than downlights to have the same effective illumination. I'd like to suggest undercounter lights, either fluorescent or xenon, but you've said you're on a budget so I know that's rough. It's hard to tell if you have a molding around the bottom of your upper cabs - if you don't, you'll need to install one to hide the undercounter fixtures. Not only is this more work (you want it to look good, not "pasted on") but it reduces the space available between your uppers and base cabs. This can make it difficult to have your small appliances out so you need to be careful about this.

This message was edited Aug 1, 2007 8:41 AM
claypa
West Pottsgrove, PA
(Zone 6b)

August 1, 2007
4:58 PM

Post #3805528

Well, since you asked for any input, here it comes...without knowing the floor plan, etc., kind of a shot in the dark, but I'd be thinking about losing the counter between the kitchen and dining/living room. Put the sink where the fridge is now, counter around the corner to where the bulletin board is, and put the fridge where the tall cabinet is.
All hypothetical, of course, not knowing anything about the rest of the building.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 1, 2007
7:59 PM

Post #3806207

Wow, thanks so much for all the diverse suggestions. Claypa, that's a bit involved and actually one of the main benefits to this plan is that I am facing the action of the house (the computer, the dining table, the tv), when I am standing at the sink. It contributes to the open feel and I like that part of it. I WISH I had money to make this kitchen exactly the way I like, but we WILL be moving in a few years, and I just want to enjoy it while we're here and make it attractive to potential buyers.

I took some detail pics in case it helps. I know it must be hard to not be able to walk through a space and look at things up close. What is behind the oven is the beige laminate. It creeps up pretty high on the wall, in several places, like by the coffee maker. Kinda weird, but it does keep it easy to clean.

I went to Lowe's today and looked at counter tops and tile. Can someone just tell me very GENERALLY which is cheaper? I get the feel that a laminate countertop would be cheaper than even a basic tile, but I guess it's hard to say. I found the chip of the counter we used in the computer area, and while I think it is a TERRIFIC idea to join the two with the same counter, I think I would be defeating the purpose of trying to lighten the kitchen. It is a DARK pattern.

So I got the idea that maybe a sage green tile or peachy sandy (or combo) of tiles would work and tie the two rooms together, without them "matching." What do you think? I took a pic of the backsplash area behind the sink with some green colors there. Also, my spoon rest is a pretty (but darker) green, so I laid that there too.

I think that would be a reasonalby affordable project spread over time:
* flooring (the vinyl tiles are really affordable, $30 a box, and dh is already sold on this idea.)
* perhaps tile to dress up the counter and backsplash areas?
* paint or refinishing supplies for cabinets, plus new hardware
* new light fixture

These are all things that I can buy a few of at a time if I have to, the spread the cost out.

Let me know what you think!!!!!!! Thanks SO MUCH for the suggestions - I love everyone's advice!!

Robin ;-D

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 1, 2007
8:02 PM

Post #3806221

Here's a close-up of the sink area and some "greens" I was thinking about. See how dark the green counters would be if the computer counter were used? If I did that with a light cabinet, I feel I would not be upping the lightness of the room at all, just switching it from counter to cabinet, know what I mean? What do you think?

Robin ;-D

This message was edited Aug 1, 2007 3:03 PM

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 1, 2007
8:33 PM

Post #3806410

Jkom:

Hi! Thanks so much for all the advice! I bought paint today for the bathroom and I'm ready to get started!!! This will be like a "test run" for the kitchen project. ;-D

I'm rereading your tips on doing the cabinets. What is TSP? Forgive me! lol! ;-)
Also, what do I prime them with?

As for the sanding, do I start coarse, then go fine? Use fine only? There are a few small gouged parts. Do I use some type of wood putty in those areas? Also, any suggestions on how to best sand the grooved parts? They are the most damaged, (from years of water droplets) and yet they seem the most difficult to sand properly.

I bought Martha Stewart satin paint in Milkweed Pod (light green) and Putty Pink (creamy white). My hydrangea print inspired me. :-D

Thanks in advance!

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 1, 2007
9:13 PM

Post #3806572

I have a light in this room, the parlor, that is similar to this one and it puts out a lot of light

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100030040&N=10000003 90401 500910&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125

You say your sink is scratched up. How badly is it scratched? Mine is porcelain and I clean it at least once a week. At my parents second home, the sink is porcelain also and has a few scratches, but Ajax or Comet cleans it up in no time. If the sink isn't that bad, I would spend my money in other areas instead of getting a new sink. I'm not in the camp that anything dark in color makes a room appear smaller. It depends on the accessories that are used also. All the rooms in this house were white or had light colored wallpaper on them. I've repainted them all in dark rich colors. They look the same size to me. If your cabinets are light, but your counter top is dark, I don't think that makes for a dark room, but that's my opinion. Especially if you re-use the white sink and use white appliances. Now if you painted the cabinets black and used all black appliances, then yes, the room would probably appear very dark. My girlfriend has used a new spray paint that's for wood furniture, but I think it could easily be used on cabinets. Somebody here has a post where they used just ordinary spray paint and painted the small upper cabinet (like above the stove and fridge) black. I thought it turned out well. I like the last silver knob you linked, but I would add something like the below link to any drawers.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100355003&categoryID=524085

Thank you for the compliment. The cabinets and counter plus install was less than $4000. I was pleased since everyone else was giving me quotes of $7000-8000 for cabinets alone. These are by far much more superior in quality than anything I looked at. They're maple, just like the floor. Which reminds me...how does a house or a room have too much wood in it? I don't understand that comment at all. I don't care how small the house is...my grandmothers house was barely 900 sq ft. all wood floors, wood cabinets in her galley style kitchen, wood table and buffet in the dining room and it wasn't too much wood in a small space? I also don't have any undercounter lighting in my kitchen. I simply don't care for them at all.

Remember that HD and Lowe's always have sales. I bought my pulls and knobs on sale. My faucet was another sale item. Just keep a watch for when they have them and ask an associate when they're having a sale.

You posted while I was previewing. TSP is Trisodium Phosphate, I buy mine at Ace. And yes, start with course to fine. Hand sanding in the grooves should work fine. I'd use a palm sander for the rest of the sanding. Wood filler is what you want, not the putty.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 1, 2007
9:27 PM

Post #3806639

You are awesome -- thanks -- I'm on my way to buy TSP. Hope it's cheap, my husband is not totally on board. He thinks if it's fine, you should just leave it alone. ;-)

Can't I just do an extra coat of paint as primer?

That light fixture is beautiful! Would coordinate well with the silver we have happening in the dining area on our shelving. $100 is a little steep, but I am sure I can find something similar or on sale for an affordable price.

Oh and I hated to post SO MANY pics and links, but the drawer pull you posted is exactly what I would choose, whether I go silver or bronze. ;-)

Despite my husband, I am going to paint the bathroom tonight! Hope it turns out well and I can convince him to let me do something to the cabinets. Do you think the colors are neutral enough? (for resale purposes).

Thanks again, everyone! Keep the help coming!
PS The wood in this house is just overpowering and beat up. If it were prettier, I would love it.

Robin ;-D

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 1, 2007
9:39 PM

Post #3806690

Oh! I totally forgot about primer. No, you need a good blocking primer. It will block the grain from showing, and just block out anything from bleeding. I prefer oil based primer, but again, that's my like. If those cute little kids up there are yours, I'd just do a water based primer, something like Zinsser or Kilz. They can tint your primer to the color of your paint and in my opinion (again!), it justs makes it easier to the next coats to go on. They have TSP either in liquid or powder. I'm not familiar with the liquid, so I'd ask for the salespersons opinion. Buy some good latex gloves too. I don't use them, but I know some people have sensitive skin, plus I think the box tells you to, I just don't ever bother. Your colors are neutral enough in my opinion.

Remember that inventory is always changing and they always put the "old" on sale.
claypa
West Pottsgrove, PA
(Zone 6b)

August 1, 2007
11:26 PM

Post #3807100

Take a look at the sheet vinyl flooring too, it's not expensive. It's even easier to lay than the adhesive tiles, and it's a lot better floor. Stores often have scraps big enough for your kitchen.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
6:11 AM

Post #3812306

I'm listening to all suggestions. Thank you and keep them coming. I've been really absorbed in this the last few days. THINKING about the kitchen while WORKING in the bathroom. It's been slow going (we have 2 kids), so no cabinet work yet. :-(
Plus we are leaving town this weekend, so that will slow the project down for a few days, but here is what I am tentatively thinking about for the kitchen:

I REALLY want to find a way to get a fancy, beautiful new countertop in. I think I will go with silver hardware and light fixture. I am even thinking about getting a solar tube (skinny skylight thing) over the sink or bar area, ideally 2 of them, but $ may nix that idea.)

I am also thinking about vinyl tiles or sheet flooring in a pretty light wood pattern.

What do you know about the "soft touch" vinyls? I saw something about them on the Armstrong website, and while it was a different product, saw one up close at Lowe's today. IT WAS ON CLEARANCE for 6 CENTS A TILE! Isn't that incredibly cheap? I am tempted to go ahead and get them!! Would they be durable? Could that be why they are on clearance? This particular display had the products labeled as "Good" and "Better" and it said "Better." (There were no "Best" displayed.) I forget the name, but they seemed brand name. Would they gouge easily? I will have to do some research on those. I think light painted cabinets, a honey/peachy/sandy beige flecked counter of some sort, and wood like flooring would be pretty.

Thoughts??

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
7:14 AM

Post #3812371

Can I get some specific advice on the cabinets? I am really perplexed about what to do here. I'm attaching pics. My husband says these are particleboard. (I thought they were oak.) He says there is such a fine layer, I cannot sand the grooves or the edges at ALL. They look horrible! Boy, these pics really show it too. In other, low traffic areas, like up high, they are very heavy grained and super glossy.

I bought "TSP substitute". I was unsure at the time, but with 2 hungry kids, I was in a hurry. ;-) I may return it and go to Ace Hardware looking for TSP powder and fine steel wool? Will fine sand paper work? My husband thinks I'm going to ruin the cabinets. (He is thinking of the bathroom cabinets, but they are the same.)

Thanks for any advice. I'm driving myself crazy. I wouldn't want to pain "beautiful" oak cabinets, but I don't think that's what I've got here. I want to lighten the space and we are definitely selling in a few years. I'm not one for giving myself knicks to constantly worry about, but it almost seems like an easier thing to touch up than this grubby gouged wood I have to deal with as it is now.

Thanks, everyone!!!!!
Robin ;-D

What follows is embarrassing pics of my nasty "oak" cabinets to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
7:15 AM

Post #3812374

over the range and microwave - can you see the lovely packing tape holding the front of the micro on? Nice, huh? ;-D

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
7:23 AM

Post #3812379

I wouldn't call it beautiful, but it's not ALL bad...

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
7:24 AM

Post #3812382

I wonder what they would look like if they had just installed hardware back in 1987?!

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 3, 2007
2:24 PM

Post #3813090

Robin, you don't need to sand the finish all off, you just need to scuff it up (make the gloss not glossy) and clean them. I use steel wool when I'm stripping wood, but after the wood is dry, I use sandpaper. It's all what you're most comfortable with. I think the only way to make them look good is to paint them. Some people are just hard on cabinets, so it's hard to say if they had knobs on them, what they would look like. I would take back the TSP substitute and get the real stuff. Sand them down first, then clean them really well. Take the doors off and sand and clean those outside, in the garage or anywhere where the dust won't bother you. I've had wood or ceramic tiles in any of my kitchens, so I'm not familiar with any linoleum out there.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
2:47 PM

Post #3813178

Thank you, Terry. I am excited to see how the bathroom turns out and I hope it inspires me to do the kitchen in the same way.

I have had a lot of help from the design studio at cambiausa.com.

While this is miles away from what my kitchen would really look like, I'm going to try and post a pic of a kitchen that uses similar colors to what I'm imagining if I repeat the green/black speckled formica in the kitchen. It would certainly be an affordable way to go. With cream cabinets and "hardwood floors" (vinyl) I think it would be a nice look. Maybe we could even spring for one of the solar lights and a new sink.

Do you think that green counter would be good in terms of RESALE? Sage walls?

I REALLY appreciate all the suggestions. Thank you so much for your help, especially, Terry! Where can I send you payment? lol! ;-D



This message was edited Aug 3, 2007 12:20 PM

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jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 3, 2007
6:39 PM

Post #3814012

I do think you shouldn't be afraid of using that green laminate, even if it's darker. It'll add a little "punch" to the space without taking it over. In 2003 we did new countertops and I picked a beige granite-look Swanstone over our bisque laminate/beech trimmed cabs. I'm really sorry now I didn't get a nice rich brown countertop color instead. Now it just looks too bland to me.

I think the sage green wall paint is lovely, and would accent the space without making it look closed in. Very nice choices!

Yes, you have an oak veneer over particleboard. Nothing wrong with that - particleboard is very stable and an excellent substrate for cabs. You won't be sanding through the veneer, anyway, even though it's thin. As Terryr points out, you are scuffing it up for paint adhesion.

Because particleboard swells when wet, keep the water/TSP solution OFF any unveneered edges. Keep a dry towel handy so that if they get wet, you can wipe off any water quickly.

Actually, I would clean with TSP first and THEN sand. Water will raise the grain, so you'll have to sand again with extra-fine sandpaper. Wipe it down properly afterwards with a damp lint-free cloth (NOT a microfiber cloth unless you want to be picking little grains of wooddust out of it forever!) to remove all dust before you paint. Those little specks become hugely magnified when added to a layer of paint!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
8:26 PM

Post #3814321

I was planning on using microfiber, but now that makes total sense. lol

Thank you for all the helpful comments!

Now to find a sandy/peachy/beigey off white that would look nice on the cabinets!

Maybe some affordable, but distinctive tile for some punch at the sink backsplash? Or would that ALL need to be the formica? Ugh! Decisions! Decisions! It's a good thing finances are going to make this a slow process so I can torture myself over every detail. If I had the $ in the bank, I'd already have people in there doing it for me and would probably keep changing my mind on them, driving them nuts! lol!! ;-D

Robin
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 3, 2007
8:34 PM

Post #3814349

I returned the "TSP substitute" and Home Depot was out of the real stuff. What a pain.

I will go to Ace Hardware this evening for TSP powder. So should I use coarse grain sandpaper at all? Extra fine only? Sorry to be such a novice!! I so appreciate all the hand holding. :-D
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 4, 2007
1:27 AM

Post #3815275

You can start with medium; then go fine, then end with extra-fine. Wipe off between each sanding. Run your fingers over the surface to feel for spots you may have missed. You'll use more sandpaper than you think, LOL.

Again, remember you are dealing with thin veneer. Sand lightly and evenly. Do not grind the sandpaper in furiously; it isn't necessary.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 4, 2007
3:01 AM

Post #3815604

You're awesome, jkom! Thanks!! ;-D
Just what I needed to know. Unfortunately, we are heading out of town for the weekend in the morning. :-( Will try and pick up the project as soon as possible next week!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 4, 2007
3:15 AM

Post #3815632

And I must say I'm sorry! I was thinking of all the stripping that I've done is in this house, then wriping down with TSP. jkom is correct in that you should wipe down first, then sand. Buy some tack cloths to clean away the dust. I think the colors you've picked are very nice! When I was getting the new cabinets and then picking out the counter, the kitchen guy didn't like my choice, he felt it would be too dark. So I kept flipping thru the samples and just kept coming back to the one I got and the one I picked right off the bat. When I was flipping, he told me he thought that he was wrong and I was right, that the one I originally picked was the best choice. When the cabinets went in and then the counters and he stopped by, he was really glad I went with the choice I wanted. I think it looks awesome.

With the veneer, yes to what jkom suggested. Medium and work your way to extra fine. If you have a palm sander, I'd still suggest using it. If you haven't ever used one, I'd invest in one as I use mine all the time. Actually I have 2...lol. I like the palm sander because it doesn't care if you don't go with the grain of the wood, therefore you can't mess it up. You might try it on something else first (even just an extra piece of lumber) to get the hang of it. Don't push it, just control it.

Small rooms don't mean only light colors. It's only paint, so experiment in a room to see how a darker rich color can add warmth and does not close you in.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 6, 2007
6:53 PM

Post #3824886

Hello!

The bathroom is almost done!

I have some questions about the application of polyurethane. I bought Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane. How long should I let it dry before I can safely attach my hardware? One coat or two? I found a very informative page:

http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=18084

but it's more in depth I think than what I need to do. (it refers to stained wood, not painted wood). Just don't wanna screw it up at this point!! :)

Thanks for any tips!

Robin ;-D
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 7, 2007
12:58 AM

Post #3826419

Well, if your painted surface is quite dry, the poly will dry pretty fast since it sounds like you're using the water-based type. I'd still give it at least 24-48 hrs between coats, and again, 2 thin is better than one thick.

Hope everything is coming along well so far for you!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 7, 2007
1:13 AM

Post #3826480

I would never do 1 or even 2 coats of poly. Even over paint. I would do 3. The second one gets what you missed the first time, the third coat gives it the best look. Remember to always work from your wet, going up to dry. Overlapping. The final stroke of each completed brush width application, should go lightly from top to bottom. The can should tell you how soon you can apply another coat. Sand lightly in between coats, using a tack cloth to wipe it all down when finished sanding. I'd leave the hardware off for at least 48 hours. That would depend on the drying time though also. I always use Minwax Polycrylic. The finish is made for water being splashed on it, can take being cleaned with water, etc.
http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/polycrylic-faq.cfm

If you do your kitchen, I would strongly suggest using the Polycrylic.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 7, 2007
2:08 AM

Post #3826705

Oh dear. Well, it might have been the conditions, (windy garage), but it looked BAD in my opinion. I painted over it and I GUESS I will just leave them? The paint is so light (pretty much looks white) that the "clear" poly looked like yellow ... ahem ... snot smeared on my cabinets. And yes, it sure was fast drying!

Maybe I should try the Polycrylic. We are flat out of $ until payday in a few days. We have company coming tomorrow and I'm trying to decide whether to put the hardware on or not yet. hmmmm...



Thank you very much everyone for your helpful advice! It is so appreciated!

My "rechargable" batteries are acting up, so I will take pics asap.

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 7, 2007
3:02 AM

Post #3826930

Well, that sure sounds better than the stuff I bought! YuK!

Maybe I should go and get some of that asap. Thank you (again!) Terry! ;-D

Here's a pic of the cabinet, but no door yet. My husband is back, so maybe tomorrow he can help me get some poly on it. (but he'll be packing for another biz trip.)

What do you think? Thanks so much!!!!

Robin ;-D

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 7, 2007
3:05 AM

Post #3826937

oh, here is a before that shows the whole cabinet. :)

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 7, 2007
3:05 AM

Post #3826938



This message was edited Aug 6, 2007 10:09 PM

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 8, 2007
8:21 PM

Post #3833638

Thanks for all the suggestions! I bought some Polyacrylic, but hubby is out of town, so I may try doing this tonight after kids are in bed. :)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 9, 2007
1:19 AM

Post #3834710

BTW, I saw an episode of Property Ladder I had TiVo'd a week ago. The flippers (from TX) painted the kitchen cabinets instead of putting in new and they looked awesome! They didn't get their asking price, but close to it. Who gets asking price anyway? Nobody around here does...lol!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 11, 2007
1:21 PM

Post #3843934

Sorry, I just have a minute as hubby is out of town and I am preparing for a baby shower I am hosting today (not at my house - thank goodness)!

Well, here's the latest. I went ahead and began painting the walls in the kitchen/dr a sage green color (Valspar's "marine reef") because I figured if I decide to do a faux finish, that would be very hard to do a "spot touch up" on. Also, I really thought I needed the wall color to provide color and match the green counter in the dining room, so that was an important place to start.

I am undecided about what to do with the cabinets still. I have held up the painted bathroom cabinets to try and envision what cream or cream with a glaze might look like. I just keep hedging on whether painting is the way to go. Maybe I could just work on the finish and top with a creamy glaze? I also considered painting cream colored and using a green glaze.

I made the mistake of going to a cabinet showroom and now I really WANT new cabinets alltogether! I was wondering if I could convince my husband to put the old cabinets in the garage for him (we already have lots of shelving however) and THAT way, I could buy cabinets that go clear to the ceiling. I think that would be a big improvement and take advantage of some wasted space. I could get cabinets that match the ones in the dr, which is really the bargain basement variety. It would still be a large price tag, though.

Well, let me know what your thoughts are!! I really appreciate all the opinions and suggestions! Thanks!!!

Robin ;-D

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 11, 2007
1:24 PM

Post #3843939

In the above pic, the cabinets seem pink. But one is the glazed and one is the plain white.

Here is another pic of some flooring choices I'm considering.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 11, 2007
1:26 PM

Post #3843943

The above tile would lend a darkness, which I want to be careful of, but I thought it would look sort of "rich" also.

This "oak" floor looks nice, but I was afraid it might amp up the "country" style a bit. (not what I'm going for) Not sure, what do you think?

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 11, 2007
2:21 PM

Post #3844086

Since my experience has always been that I can't match up the stain and therefore what ever I'm doing looks like crap and I end up with it blotchy looking and then have to redo the entire thing, it would my inclination not to try and match up the stain, but to just paint them. I've been doing a lot of searching on white painted cabinets, or just painted cabinets in general. I hit on a ton of websites and forums where the people are painting their cabinets. I saw one lady did her cabinets in red. Another was a rich buttery yellow on top with red for the lower cabinets. So if painted cabinets aren't the thing to do, a lot of people are misinformed.

My whole first floor has solid maple floors. My kitchen included. It was built that way back in 1896. Upstairs is wide plank pine floors. Country is not a look I like either. Way too cutesy.
prairefire
Metro Kansas City, KS
(Zone 5b)

August 11, 2007
8:19 PM

Post #3845293

Stain a decent-sized scrap piece of plywood with some MinWax golden oak stain. Let it dry overnight and seal it with some clear shellac (very stinky so do it outdoors and wear a mask). Dilute some paint with four parts Floetrol or faux paint extender with one part paint and glaze the scrap wood. That will be very close to the color of what your cabinets will look like glazed.

The underlying color of your cabinets already has a lot of yellow in it so it is likely that a white glaze will give cream-colored final result with the thicker parts of the white glaze tying in with your white appliances. You could try doing one side of your scrap plywood with white glaze and the other side cream glaze to see which you prefer.

To get an idea of what painted cabinets would look like just paint a very big piece of cardboard.

It is much, much cheaper to reface cabinets and install new doors than to install all new cabinets unless you want to completely redesign your kitchen layout. Also, refacing/new doors does not require the considerable inconvenience of tearing up your kitchen.

If you want taller upper cabinets you can simply add on to what you have. You can get a nice catalog at Home Depot that shows some complete kitchens with refaced cabinets or download the cabinet company's print catalog here: http://www.qualitydoors.com/catalog/index.html Page 13 of the catalog shows what it would look like to add cabinets on top of your current upper cabinets.

The dark flooring you picked is pretty, it looks rich and it won't show dirt. However, dark colors do absorb a lot of light and the high contrast between light cabinets/appliances and a dark floor will very likely make the room look a bit smaller. I have one of those blue plastic tarps that has a brown backside. They are pretty cheap and tarps are always handy to have on hand. You could put one of those down on the kitchen floor, brown side up, to get a rough idea of how a large area of dark floor might look.

The sage green is very pretty and gives the look of tranquility that you seem to prefer. I'm very partial to tranquil backgrounds myself but I do often punch them up with bold accents.
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 15, 2007
2:06 PM

Post #3859161

I like the stone-look tile, but I'm one who prefers a contrast in textures to the endless wood/wood/wood combinations. Wood's great and I love it, but the combo of wood and stone or stone-look is always so rich-looking to me.

Besides, I confess I'm biased - we almost picked that exact tile when we were remodeling in 2003. We picked the green/tan instead, in an upscale tile (Metroflor), but either color would have worked. We have gotten tons of compliments on it and boy, does it hide dirt!

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 15, 2007
7:34 PM

Post #3860379

Well, I've been working between the bathroom and the kitchen! Bathroom is almost done, minus flooring. $ is SO tight, my husband almost had a fit when he learned I bought a gallon of paint. Ugh...someday we'll have more to work with. I think I am slowly convincing him that this is all about us enjoying the house to its full extent while we're here (you never know--it may be much longer than we think!) And at the same time, having a desirable property that will reach a good price when we decide to move. He has nixed the whole glazing thing. (I showed him the two examples of bathroom cabinets.) The skylight in the bathroom makes it so bright with natural light that I thought the glazing would not look as nice in there. (Maybe down the road in the master bath...) Anyhow, I should be able to attach those doors tonight and get the hardware on. :-D You were right, Terry! 3 coats of polyacrylic were a must. I about lost my patience with the teeny knicks and specks of dust appearing out of nowhere. The finish is not as perfect as I'd like in spots (drips, bumpy texture, etc.) but the OVERALL look is a HUGE improvement, in my opinion. Unless someone just really does NOT like painted cabinets, I think they look fresh and light and bright.

I have gotten several bright ideas for the kitchen. The overall plan keeps getting bigger and bigger. It may never all come to fruition, but I plan on doing my best to keep at it. I figure spending a little bit at a time will make it more possible.

Here are some of my big ideas. First off, I want DuraCeramic tile. I am still trying to decide if it's worth it. My thought is, it's a small space, so maybe a good way to splurge and upgrade. It supposedly can be cut with a knife, so no tile cutter involved. (I'm not willing to go there!) Also, it can be laid w/o grout, which I think makes it more livable and look nice too. Finally, it supposedly is not as cold as tile and comes with a lifetime warranty and is very durable, but is less likely to shatter glassware, etc. A salesman tried to sell it to me (obv. did a pretty good job!) and it was $4.61/sf. I would like to pay less, maybe even purchase online if I can see the same tile in person in a store somewhere. I asked a good friend, who works in flooring and here's what he had to say:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

You have made an excellent choice in "Duraceramic". I have been in the flooring business 17 years and am familiar with all types of flooring for residential and commercial use. Duraceramic is relatively new, about 2-4 years on the market. In my opinion, it's one of the best kept secrets out there. To answer your questions:
1. Yes, you can butt the tile together and not use grout. Duraceramic makes a special grout just for their product which works well and is a lot better than your regular grout types. If you choose not to use grout, either make sure you have a very good installer or choose a pattern that is forgiving enough to keep the layout square. Going grout less will force the layout to be square from start to finish. When using grout, the grout joints will absorb a little error if you start to get out of square thus preventing a "crooked" looking floor.
2. Duraceramic is more forgiving than ceramic when it comes to both walking and dropping items. it is very close to hardwood in it's hardness rating.
3. With a good utility knife you can score the surface and snap the tile. So yes, you can cut it with a utility knife-just not all the way through.
When I was in retail sales up until a year ago, when people said they wanted ceramic, I would always try to show the Duraceramic as an option after a ceramic presentation. It's frankly a much superior product than regular ceramic. The problem usually was the price. people like $1.50 a foot much more than $5.00 a foot. But trust me, It's well worth the investment. A few months before I resigned from Budget Floor Store I sold A dinning room and large kitchen of Duraceramic. The customer spent an extra $1300.00 to get the Duraceramic but they just absolutely fell in love with it and could not say enough about how happy they were with their new floor.
I am not a big fan of the people that run Budget Floor Store, however, they do have the best pricing in town and offer a 30 day price match guarantee. If you can order on-line for $2.50 that would be great. The only issue may be your shipping cost and ordering more of the same dye lot should you end up short or wanting more.
Anyway, when we buy our house next year, there will be Duraceramic installed wherever possible. So go for it, you'll be stoked. Please feel free to call me should you have any other questions.
Also, you should add about 10% to your net measurements as you will loose footage and tiles at the end of each row-there will be waste you cannot use. In addition, dye lots can vary, so if you ever need to replace or want to add to your existing floor, you want to be sure the color matches with the original tile.
Take care and good luck!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So feel free to tell me your thoughts on that! I would probably put it in our two teeny bathrooms eventually as well. I am too scared to put vinyl squares in wet areas.

Ok, my next bright idea: I want granite! There are two differing thoughts I have on this. First, I've heard, you can never go wrong with adding granite. You will get your $ back when you sell because it is such a draw. On the other hand, maybe it's just too over the top and unnecessary. The "double" counter is 8 feet long, with the lower counter having a cut out for the sink. The other side of the kitchen with the stove and fridge is just two little rectangles, not even a foot long each. Changing the counter would mean adding tile though (I think) or something else as backsplash...wouldn't it? Hubby wanted to know if we did granite, how would the edge of the upper bar look? What would go down over the edge if you lay granite on top?

Of course, I want a stainless steel sink. :)

I would love some cool glass tiles. :-D They are SO expensive, but SO beautiful and would be such a visible feature in our house!!
Maybe a pretty neutral:
http://www.floormall.com/tile/dal_tile/maracas_glass_mosaics/dal-tile-p65011ms1p/
Or even something a bit bolder:
http://www.floormall.com/tile/dal_tile/maracas_glass_mosaics/dal-tile-p66611ms1p/

I think I already mentioned this, but I want my cabinets to go to the ceiling and possibly be lit and have frosted glass doors.

I would also like the cabinet by the doorway with the paper towel holder on it to be an open plate rack on the bottom. Since it's all by itself, I think it would be a very easy one to extend upwards.

The large cabinet opposite it might also be nice to bump up and put an "open" cabinet underneath it. For mugs, glasses, etc. These are just thoughts so far, but something to think about before I get into painting and sanding.

My last high falootin' idea is I want an L-shaped banquette in our dining room. I am SICK of moving chairs around and I do worry about the computer counter we have installed shrinking the eating space. It won't be a formal dining room per se anymore, but I think if it's done with quality materials and well thought out, it will look GREAT, be a very functional space, create additional storage AND make maximum use of the space. I KNOW it would work well for us and I think for resale, it would be very family friendly and also appeal to young couples.

I am still trying to decide if I would want more cabinets on one of the dining room walls.

So there you have it, a flurry of ideas, all problematic in that we have very little money, but I have plenty of time to decide what I like at least!

Gimme your thoughts! Thanks!!!

Robin ;-D

PS I'm attaching a pic of the "palette" I've created, including a granite sample (we like Desert Gold!), a sample of the green computer counter laminate, the green wall color, the taupey color in the entryway that I will also put in the hallway by the pantry, the deeper beige I am considering for the living room walls and finally, the ivory color I THINK I have selected for the kitchen cabinets. :-)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 16, 2007
3:27 AM

Post #3862265

Robin, what about the houses around you? Are they all starter type homes? Or a mix? Does granite have a resale in your neighborhood? It doesn't here. You can't put all this into your home, if you'd be the best house on the street. The comps tell it all. You never want to over improve for your neighborhood. You've got wasted space to the left of your sink in the pictures. Wouldn't it make sense to add corner cabinets in there and possibly a pantry cabinet too? Instead of adding cabinets into the dining area? Also, the inner part of the cab doors can be removed and frosted glass added.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 16, 2007
3:28 AM

Post #3862278

I forgot...paint can and should be sanded if there's runs, drips or sags. Polycrylic should be sanded between coats and any runs in it should be sanded out then.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 16, 2007
3:43 AM

Post #3862342

I did sand for the most part in between coats, but when I did that, it often created brown spots that I felt like I had to put touch up paint on. At some point, I would sand (manually) a bit, then say to hell with it. I felt like I was stretching the process out too much.

I totally hear you on the granite, but I think it boils down to "I just WANT it." I also think it will help people want to buy the house. I think this area is primarily attracting couples and families. I did a search last night and found the County Assessor's site for our neighborhood. I will post that in a sec.

Thanks so much for your input, Terry. I'm not fully understanding your suggestion about the corner cabinet. There is "dead space" to the left of my sink, but there is so LITTLE counter space overall, I considered bringing cabinetry down to the counter, but figured it might not be good to eat up valuable counter space. (So I definitely want to try to go up -- just not sure how exactly to do that.)

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 16, 2007
4:08 AM

Post #3862444

So I spent some time doing some research last night, precisely to determine what you mentioned, Terry. This is a bit of a new concept for me, because as a naive layperson, I think "create a nice home and get a nice price" for the right buyers and right market, of course. But I do understand the concept of not wanting to be the fanciest house on the block.

Our suburb town is building a brand new high school and our house will be within walking distance, but nestled in a nice little U-shaped street that is quiet and pretty well maintained. There are a few duplexes two blocks over and that street (mostly renters) is not that great, but our street has mostly young families and retired age people. Our house is not the newest on the block and it does not have the most square footage, but it is exactly like several other houses. (I mean EXACTLY.) And according to the info I found, all the houses that are the same are worth the same exact amount. Not sure how that would work in actual buying situation. Hopefully, a "cuter" home that has had some updating would bring more. ??

Here's what I found:

Home Prices in our neighborhood:


2137 S. Ourstreet $84k

2138 S. Ourstreet $102k (built in ’92 – 1473 sf)

2139 S. Ourstreet $79k

2141 S. Ourstreet $75k

2131 S. Ourstreet $84k

2130 S. Ourstreet $111k (built in ’91 – 1501 sf)

2129 S. Ourstreet $90k (built in ’89 – 1126 sf)

2128 S. Ourstreet $93k (built in ’92 – 1149 sf)

2127 S. Ourstreet $101k (built in ’91 – 1285 sf)

2126 S. Ourstreet $85k (built in ’87 – 1126 sf)

2125 S. Ourstreet $102k (built in ’91 – 1476 sf)

2124 S. Ourstreet $86k (built in ’87 – 1129 sf)

2122 S. Ourstreet $85k (built in ’87 – 1129 sf)

2121 S. Ourstreet $91k (built in ’91 – 1123 sf) $81/sf

2120 S. Ourstreet $85k (built in ’87 – 1129 sf)

2119 S. Ourstreet $94k (built in ’91 – 1200 sf)

OUR HOUSE: 2118 S. Ourstreet $85k (built in ’87 – 1129 sf) $75/sf

2117 S. Ourstreet $88k (built in ’90 – 1096 sf)

2115 S. Ourstreet $88k (built in ’90 – 1096 sf)

2113 S. Ourstreet $86k (built in ’86 – 1178 sf)

2111 S. Ourstreet $79k (built in ’86 – 975 sf)

2109 S. Ourstreet $86k (built in ’86 – 1178 sf)

2107 S. Ourstreet $72k (built in ’86 – 872 sf)

2105 S. Ourstreet $76k (built in ’86 – 972 sf)

2103 S. Ourstreet $87k (built in ’86 – 1341 sf)

2101 S. Ourstreet $71k (built in ’85 – 932 sf)

AVERAGE HOME PRICE ON OUR STREET: $86.8k


ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 16, 2007
4:21 AM

Post #3862476

Are those actual selling prices, or what a site like Zillow or something similar is telling you? In some areas, those estimates are right on but in others they can be off quite considerably, and all it knows about are the things that are a matter of public record like square footage, lot size, etc, it doesn't know anything about the condition of the house or how updated it is. You'd be better off getting some data on recent actual sales--if you're using Zillow there is a link where it'll show you recent sales in your neighborhood, or else in some areas it's published in the paper, or a real estate agent would probably be happy to give you the info in the hopes that you might remember them when you go to sell your house someday.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 16, 2007
4:43 AM

Post #3862535

It was from the County Assessor's Office online and yes, it's all based on square footage and taxes, etc.

I'm trying to view my neighborhood on Zillow the way I had once before. I must have messed with the settings somehow, but here is my home on that site. (Depressing! It shows 3 recently sold homes in the 70's!!!!!)

http://www.zillow.com/search/Search.htm?addrstrthood=2118 S. Robinson Ave.&citystatezip=73170&GOButton=GO
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 16, 2007
2:26 PM

Post #3863289

The county assessor's office numbers are just what they use to determine what your property taxes ought to be, so it doesn't necessarily mean the house would sell for that price (although if the house would sell for considerably less, people ought to request a reassessment!) Looking at sales prices on recently sold homes that are comparable to yours is the most accurate way to judge what you might be able to get for your house.

Also, this forum is open to everyone, so I'm not sure if you want to keep the link to your house on Zillow or not--I know some people worry about stuff like that on the forums that are open to everyone so I figured I'd mention it!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 16, 2007
3:09 PM

Post #3863418

I'm disclosing my privacy for the advantage of hearing info from folks like you! :)
(I won't leave the link up forever. Thanks for mentioning it!)

So, it looks like many homes around 80k by the County Assessor are selling for 100k. (APPROX.) That is encouraging. We paid $75k in 2003.

I may not necessarily go granite, but I would really like to do some upgrades that will help US enjoy this house for the next several years and might provide a bit of wow factor in comparison to comparable homes when we do decide to sell. Isn't that the point? I mean, I'm not installing granite to sell next month. You know what I mean?

If anyone has any further advice, I'm all ears!

I'm thinking about doing DuraCeramic in the bathroom as my next step. It's such a small area and it could give me an idea of how installation goes as well as how we like living with it.

Thanks for any comments - I really appreciate them everyone.
Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 16, 2007
7:52 PM

Post #3864518

I think if you're doing things to make yourself happy, then go for it. If you're doing things where you're expecting to get a certain return on your money when you sell, then you need to look more carefully at what other houses in the neighborhood have. Given your price range, probably not a lot of people have/expect granite, so it's unlikely that you'd get back your money on it, but if you enjoy it and are OK with not getting the money back then there's no reason not to do it. And things like that certainly could help your house sell faster than a less upgraded house, just don't expect to get a lot more money.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 16, 2007
10:47 PM

Post #3865208

ditto ditto ditto what ecrane said! If granite is what you want, and you want to put something like 20k into renovating your kitchen (cabinets, appliances, flooring, sink, lighting, granite etc), understanding that you won't get that in return, then go for it. By dead space at the left of your sink, I mean the counter stops at the wall and doesn't turn. Turning either by a lower and upper cabinet that you see up above in my 1st picture showing my kitchen. It would add more counter space and give you more cupboard room if it followed the wall and stopped at the fridge. I think it's the fridge that's right there. I'll tell you a little story. My husband and I built our first house in '82. I'm not a mover. We built that house and I was never moving. Never never never. They were going to carry out me cold and lifeless ;0) I was always updating something. In late '98, I decided I wanted a new kitchen. I hated the wood work, I wanted all new wood work. Wood work was trim, baseboards, doors. I wanted hardwood in the kitchen, new tile in the bath, and a new vanity, vanity top and faucet. While we're at it, we might as well put on a new roof. I'm not going anywhere, right? Basically the only things that were the same were the walls and ceilings (been painted a lot though), the plywood underneath the new carpet, hardwood and tile. The siding was cedar siding, which I loved, so we had stained that in '02. Also in '02, we got all new windows and a new sliding glass door. The very next year, in '03, the company my husband worked for decided they were moving to TN and closing here. He'd been with this company for 25 yrs. Sell our house and leave the town we'd lived in for 21 yrs and the county I was born and raised in? And never lived anywhere else? Or stay with no job? We decided to go ahead and sell and move to TN. Now what would a house like that sell for? We put in 35k worth of improvements. It sold for what all the other houses that had the same sq footage (the comps) were. I might of well as opened the back door and just thrown the money out in the back yard. It sold fast because the people could tell that it was an extremely well cared for home. But in the end, it didn't matter a hill of beans what the improvements were, it only mattered what other houses in the area, similar to the sq footage were selling for. It only sold for 33k more than we had payed for it 21 yrs previous. Not including the finance charges per month of course. And all the carpet, the new doorknobs, the new front door, the new storm door, the new doorbell, the new the new...you get the point. So we had more in the house than it was worth and more than it could sell for. The real kick in the teeth comes when we buy another house in TN and the company my husband had worked for went bankrupt. It sold to another company who moved the machinery all down to Mexico. NO JOB. So, here we are, back in my home town. But I won't make the mistake of over improving this house. It's being improved, yes it is, and with quality materials. But I know what sells and what doesn't in this area. If this house had granite counters, it wouldn't make it worth any more than the guy selling his house just up the road 1/2 a block with laminate.

When you sanded, what was the brown? You don't sand hard or with course sandpaper, you just use a piece of sandpaper in your hand, and sand lightly only on the run to remove it. You do sand the whole thing lightly in between coats of poly. But again, if you have a run, just sand lightly on the run till it disappears.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 17, 2007
12:42 AM

Post #3865563

Terry,

I am so sorry to hear that story. Ugh! Yes, I admit that is what I worry about, BUT it is not even an option to spend $20k, so everything will be small projects here and there. I know, it does add up, but I will NOT be spending thousands of dollars. I will definitely keep you guys updated on the costs as I go along. Right now, we are completely broke, so I can't do anything more at the moment and that is incredibly frustrating, but c'est la vie! It will happen. I don't know about granite for sure, but I would like some sort of sparkly slab of something! ;-) I really did not understand about the "comps". You hear so much about improving the value of your house, that just doesn't seem right, but I believe it to be true, I guess. If we could sell for 90-100k, that would be awesome. As I said, we only paid 75k 4 years ago. I will keep watching Zillow for comps. Thanks a bunch for the sound advice - not exactly what I want to hear, but I still plan on redoing and making it pretty. Might just have to reel myself in at times.

Terry, HOW do you know what sells and what doesn't? I have considered calling up an agent and talking a little bit about our situation. I got a neat newsletter in my mailbox from an agent the other day. Thought about starting there.

I don't know what the brown was when I sanded. I guess it was just a scuff mark of some kind. I used a fine or extra fine sandpaper in my hand and rubbed with medium pressure with the grain. The marks usually came at the edge, where there was a bit of buildup of the poly. They were faint, but bothered me. Once I was so tired, I just dabbed a pinky's worth of paint on it and called it good. ;-D I am about to get all the hardware completely on. I wish I could take pics that include a new floor, but finances and indecision are stalling that for now and we are going out of town for the weekend, so it'll have to wait a bit.

Thanks again for following along. I love hearing everyone's input!!

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 17, 2007
1:00 AM

Post #3865635

Realtors can be very helpful telling you what improvements will make you the most money back and which ones just won't pay for themselves, that's probably the best thing to do if you want to find out what'll pay back and what won't. Also, if you're friendly with the neighbors, check out what sorts of improvements they've made, or go to open houses if there are houses for sale in the area, that'll give you an idea of what sort of countertops, floors, etc are typical for your area.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 17, 2007
3:20 AM

Post #3866224

Robin, I'm just trying to be that voice of reason inside of you. My dad tried to tell me...but again, even he didn't know that the company would move away from here when it'd been here for 53 yrs! If you go in and get a quote from a kitchen place for new counters and new cabinets, I think you're going to be surprised at just how much it does cost. My cabinets didn't come with the pulls or knobs, so that was $3-5 per right there. Then you add in a new sink. Stainless sinks, good stainless steel sinks are going to cost over $250 if not more. I priced them before I decided on doing the cast iron porcelain sink here. New flooring at $2.50 minimum, is going to add up to. Then the light fixture. Then you probably won't like the faucet you have. Then the carpet looks ratty now, since the kitchen is so good looking and it just keeps going and going. You're not going to be in this house for long. So why not just paint those cabinets, put in new counter tops, redo the floor, replace the light fixture and add some knobs and pulls? You want to give the most bang for your buck...and when you don't have a buck, you do the barest minimum. Just like Design On A Dime and the countless other shows they do.

For how I know what's going to sell...well, this is a small rural town, population 7600 (other towns in this county have less). The kind where everybody knows your name. I've had friends move from one house to the next and I see what's in there and what's not. I've talked to the 4 places around here that do kitchens. They all know what's in the houses around here. You don't walk into a showroom around here and find a display with granite counters. It just doesn't happen here. Before we bought this house, I looked at over 30, no lie. In this little town! Even when we moved to TN, I bet we looked at well over 100 houses down there. You get a feeling of what a house in "this" price range is going to have in it. We looked at houses that were over our budget (way over our budget!), both here and in TN, just to really get a good idea. I've gone to a few open houses around here...just to see the inside of that house...lol.

I hope the link below works. This is a house that I know. It was totally redone inside 7 yrs ago. The siding and roof were just put up last year. You won't find granite in this house, but it's listed for $249,900.00. The house these people are moving to, has 10 acres, 2 garages and 2 outbuildings. About the same amount of sq. footage for the house, but newer. And it was $439,900.00. It doesn't have granite either.

http://homes.realtor.com/search/listingdetail.aspx?zp=61356&ml=3&bd=5&bth=5&typ=1&sid=04f644d22ea146ccb1ae344d3bbafa7c&pg=2&lid=1082775656&lsn=14&srcnt=37#Detail

The below is a picture of part of the kitchen of the house linked above. Now I have to tell you, I consider the price they're wanting high for that area of town.

You should use a brush for the poly that doesn't get used on anything else. Thin coats, and at least of them. I've had to do 5 before. But it dries fast, unless there's too much humidity, then you have to give it more drying time. It sounds like the sandpaper was burnishing the finish. To me, that's when my paint or my poly isn't dry enough.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 17, 2007
3:09 PM

Post #3867410

Terry,

You're awesome, thanks so much for the advice. :-) I know what you're saying is true. I am confident that no other house in my specific neighborhood has granite, but isn't that kind of the point when you're trying to make your house stand out from the crowd? I know for a fact that I would have to find a really good deal. Also, it's a small area, so I was hoping that would allow for an upgraded material. I also was liking the idea of granite because it's different than the computer counter. I like a lot of formica out there, but it seems a little weird to have the green formica there, and the beige formica there. You know? I am attaching another pic of the current palette I'm playing with. I still plan on painting the cabinets, but would like to add some 30x12 cabinets and replace the doors with glass, I think.

Yes, that's how I did the poly. Overall, it went well. It was just a tedious step-by-step process.

Ok, got a crying baby on my hands - gotta go!

PS The 3 creams I'm trying to choose for the cabinets are on the right in this pic.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 17, 2007
3:38 PM

Post #3867516

Look, I love Zillow, it's great fun and I have friends making a lot of money working there. BUT IT ISN'T WHAT YOU SHOULD RELY UPON! It has the same basis in reality as "reality TV" does to your own life.

You don't live in a "hot" market. That's good because you shouldn't get the big ups and down we get on the coasts. That's bad because you are in the starry-eyed lusting stage where "just this would make me happy".

Except then it becomes "and this too" and "oh, this is just a small thing, so this would make me even happier".

Because of the fast-changing local market, the only appraisal you can depend upon is one from the top-selling experienced RE agent in your best local realty. I'd be awfully surprised if the prices haven't dropped in your area. With the recent froth in the subprime markets which is affecting starter and mid-range homes, any honest agent will tell you the buyers are psychologically shaken. They will not pay for your upgrades. Your best bet is a strictly cosmetic redo with paint and the barest minimum of upgrades, such as cheap laminate counters and a peel and stick floor tile.

You keep saying you don't have any money, but like terryr points out, the costs of what you are wanting are adding up to a lot more than you think. Be realistic - even if you can't do 90% of what you want to do, you CAN do some things to make your kitchen look and work a little better. And later, when the finances do improve, THEN you can see if it's worth making some bigger changes.

We remodeled our home in 1989/90 and then updated the kitchen and baths slightly in 2003. We have enough money to do it again, but I look around this place and know we've already overimproved it. Adding more to the kitchen will make me happy, but it won't add a single dime to the (now 10% lower in the local market from last year) asking price if we suddenly have to sell. I'm a rampant consumer, but I know it just doesn't make any sense for me to do this...so I'm not gonna! But my sympathies are with you, because it's a fight - I really, really would like to improve my kitchen some more, and unlike you I do have the extra cash to do it with. But I tell myself to not be stupid, and pretty soon the urge goes away. It keeps coming back, but I make sure to beat it to death with logic again, and my checkbook is saved once more.

I hope I've made you laugh, and feel that yes, we all really do understand how much you'd like granite and new Duraceramic floors and new cabs. But don't worry, they'll still be there in three years, or five years, or even ten years, waiting for you. They won't go away.

Your DIYer skills seem to be minimal. Go very slowly and don't bite off more than you can chew! It is a lot harder to complete some of these projects than those glitzy HGTV shows make it look. That's why the "before" pix should be your guide - most people's home all really do look like that, messy and unbalanced and full of minor projects to finish up that never get completed. Try to remember that paint, a new light, and minimal improvements to the counters and floors will be a striking change overall, for the very few $$ you will be spending.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 17, 2007
5:01 PM

Post #3867783

Thanks, Jkom! All very good advice. I AM listening, everyone, but you're right, I've got a case of the "wanties!"

I just emailed a re agent who sent a mailer to my house a few days ago. We'll see what I get back.

Ok, I'll do peel and stick tiles. :-( lol It won't be so bad, I guess. :-) Is it really ok if water droplets get on it on a regular basis?

I am lusting over new cabinets, but it's not in the cards. HOWEVER, I do want to add UP. Then maybe some cute glass insert doors. We'll see. I might be able to pull that off.

I've been looking at light fixtures. Amazon has some good deals going on right now, but I'd like to see the fixtures in person. I'm trying to decide if I would regret taking out the ceiling fan. (I already mentioned to hubby that we could install it in the garage and he liked that idea, so we wouldn't be just junking it.)

It's hard for me to wrap my head around the idea of there being a ceiling on the price of a home. It seems the more you do, the more you should get back. (within reason). Since I started this post, there is a NEW show on HGTV called "My House is Worth What?" that specifically details improvements people have made and how it did or did not affect the value of their home in dollars. I know you can't put in really specific stuff that noone else would appreciate except for you. But it has seemed to me that I could do some of the improvements that supposedly bring high returns (kitchens & bathrooms) and put in some wow factor items that might entice people to fall in love with the property. You know, help my house beat out the competition. That's where I was going with the granite and tile. :)

I really appreciate all the input! My husband would thank you, I'm sure. lol! ;-D
By the way, does anyone have any views on the banquette idea?! I laid down some couch pillows and butted our table over to give an idea of what it would look like. (Yes, I got some clearance roses last night!)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 17, 2007
5:03 PM

Post #3867791

Here's another pic which gives the idea of the relation to the computer counter (which I'm not willing to photograph due to all the piles of mail and kid stuff strewn all over it!) ;-D

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 17, 2007
5:07 PM

Post #3867806

and finally, a close-up of the space. They sell unfinished cabinets at Home Depot that they are selling as like an entryway bench. They open with two cabinets. I was thinking if we could put two of those together, then maybe empty space in the corner, then one on the end, I could cover with an L-shaped piece of plywood.

I realize that the kitchen "bar" jutting out is a problem. I was thinking we could somehow put a skinny cabinet with sliding doors there? Something simply made, with beadboard? Add pillows?

We would have to get a pedestal table or reconfigure this one.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 17, 2007
5:13 PM

Post #3867832

Already got a reply from a RE agent! (Went through MLS.com, I think.)

The estimated price range I’ve provided is determined by several factors including age of the home, square footage, location, beds/baths, and the selling price of other similar homes in your area.

Remember this is just a preliminary estimate based on limited information. I can prepare a more precise valuation by viewing the overall condition of your home and comparing it to the properties currently listed in your neighborhood.

Once you have reviewed this information, please feel free to contact me with any questions or comments.

I'm sure you are aware of the "national" real estate outlook. Oklahoma has been affected by the increase in interest rates. Home sales are slow and so is appreciation. When there are fewer buyers home prices tend to tick down a little to attract buyers. Generally, you can expect about 50 cents on the dollar on improvements, depending on the area of improvement.
Estimate of Your Home’s Value: $103,714 - $121,751



Then, it listed specs on 4 comps.
Len123
Adrian, MO
(Zone 6a)

August 17, 2007
5:32 PM

Post #3867886

I think the thing that put things in perspective for me, kitchens anyway, was an HGTV they had on about expensive kitchens. this couple spent like $60,000 on their kitchen. they had it all his/her sinks and refrigerators etc. then the camera shows them chopping green peppers and onions! I realized that you can do that in the most primitive of kitchens, then my mind started wandering and i wondered if these folks could even cook that good of food! Then i started thinking that these people probably eat out most of the time. if i had spent that kind of money on kitchen, i would have to get a degree in cooking and then never eat out again without feeling so guilty, nonetheless cooking a tv dinner or microwave dinner! granite counters are nice if you never use them. they're a pain when the kids spill red koolaid on them though. nothing at all wrong with stick tiles.
painting cabinets, or new hardware. new light fixture is major improvement. the most important thing in selling imho is CLEAN!!
Len123
Adrian, MO
(Zone 6a)

August 17, 2007
5:52 PM

Post #3867952

i think i would knock out that little wall, get rid of the table and chairs, and move the bar
making it wider and bring it into the dining area. keep it counter height not bar height.
then against the back wall you would have more cabinet space. that would give you more counter space to work plus you would use it for the kitchen/dining table. also stools around the bar.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 17, 2007
9:46 PM

Post #3868729

Hey Len,

Thanks for your ideas! That's a thought. :) Hmm...I was thinking it would be valuable to save the concept of a "formal" dining space. I thought if the materials used were just right, it would serve holiday dinners and dinner parties as well as afternoon snacks and casual family meals.

I have attached a pic of a kitchen with a banquette styled similar to what I was imagining (as far as construction at least).

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

Len123
Adrian, MO
(Zone 6a)

August 17, 2007
9:54 PM

Post #3868764

yes that's very nice and probably work better! i think i would still get rid of that little wall or at least the top part of it. i see there is a light switch on it.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 17, 2007
11:57 PM

Post #3869115

If you've really got your heart set on granite, you might consider doing granite tiles instead of a granite slab. You can do those yourself if you know how to lay tile, or any handyman sort of person could do it, so you save money compared to having to pay for fabrication & installation of a slab. The granite tiles aren't as thick as a slab, and you also end up with grout lines but you can space the tiles pretty close together so the lines aren't that noticeable.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 18, 2007
1:49 AM

Post #3869505

Before I forget, the middle off white. The top has too much peach, the bottom is too yellow. The bottom, Formica? is very similar to what I have. Go back up and look at my kitchen again. It's a faux granite Formica. And I LOVE it! But, I would honestly repeat the Formica you have in the dining area. What are the other colors? Wall colors?

You want your house to be in the best shape for the neighborhood. A house that's been well taken of and doesn't have a lot of things wrong it. That doesn't mean having granite counters because nobody else in the neighborhood has them. You want to have the best looking counters, without breaking the bank, but keeping in line with what's in your neighborhood. People are going to have a set amount that they want to spend on a house. Your house, with a new kitchen, is going to demand a higher price. Now, I'm a buyer and I've got XXX amount of money to spend and your house falls in my range. But nobody else in the neighborhoods house is worth that. So it doesn't make sense for me to buy a high priced house in a low priced neighborhood. I want my house in the neighborhood that all the houses in the neighborhood sell for around the same amount of money. Or I find a house that is moderately priced because it needs updating, in the higher range neighborhood and make upgrades that then will get the higher return demanded for that neighborhood.

I wouldn't start knocking down any walls. If you call this the formal dining room, where else is there to eat? Your kitchen doesn't look like an eat in kitchen, it looks like a kitchen with a dining area in front. But I wouldn't call it a formal dining room. I reserve that term for houses with an eat in kitchen that have a separate room that would be a formal dining room. My house doesn't have an eat in kitchen and it has a dining room. It's the only room to eat in, so it's not a formal dining room. Just like if your house has 1 "living room", I call it a living room. If you've got 2 rooms that could be used for that type of space, then 1 is a family room, the other is a formal (or just a) living room. Depending on how it's decorated. In this old house, I have what I call a parlor in front of my living room. The parlor is a sitting room with my computer in it.

Back to why I wouldn't knock out the wall. Your sink is there. Where's the sink going if the wall is gone? The kitchen you show is a galley style kitchen. Basically just a long narrow area with all the appliances in a line. If you remove that wall, or even knock it down to just above or at the sink, where's the rest of the cabinets going to go? It's a look I'd expect to see in a condo, but not a single family home. At least I wouldn't want it. Again, if I was the buyer, that long seat would have to go so I had room for my table and chairs. That's a specific look that not all home buyers are going to like. And if you take it with you, it's going to look silly without it. The house that I linked you to with the black and white tiles. It's a specific look that somebody's going to love or they're going to hate. So far, everybody hates. ;( It's higher priced home in this area, so for that amount of money, does anybody want to remove all that tile and redo it? Consensus so far is saying no. I tried to tell 'em...lol...I digress. I'd keep that bar like it is, and stick a couple of nice looking bar stools there. Change out the Formica though. I can imagine sitting on one as you're cooking, I'm watching (but of course!) and we're chatting. Great place for kids to sit and do homework, while you're making supper...etc.

I also wouldn't pay attention to what an e-mail said about how much my house is worth. How would they possibly know when they haven't been there? They aren't. I forgot last night to say that ecrane's suggestion of contacting a LOCAL Realtor was a very good one. Tell them why you'd like their help with what would be too much, what would be just about right. You want somebody who knows your area well. Regarding peel and stick tiles...my MIL has the peel and stick tiles in the enclose porch. It was enclosed before '56 my husband just told me (before his time he says..lol), and they look just as good today as I imagine they looked way back when. And they're red with touches of white. I'd say they've held up very well. I think the key, as it is with everything, is the prep work you do before you set about putting them in. You can also lay a thin subfloor down and lay them cleanly on it. That way, no design that's in the floor under is going to show. And that's also a common thing to do.

There's always going to be a price cap in any neighborhood you live in, when you live in a larger area. If you live in a neighborhood that has people with cars up on blocks, trash in the yard and just an unkempt appearance, you certainly can't think that because your house is in good to excellent condition, that people will ignore the other houses in the neighborhood. It just doesn't happen that way. Most people buy in certain areas because of the values of homes and the reputation the neighborhood has. Sometimes, people want to live in a certain area of town because they have a better school. Of course that depends on the town you live in. Here, we only have 1 school district, so all the kids go to the same school...unless you put them in parochial school. And even then, it doesn't matter where in town you live, as long as you've got the tuition ;)

You don't have much money. Think about the people who buy in your neighborhood. They're probably going to be in the same boat. Do the repairs you need to do so your house is a one that shows that the people care and the proper care as been taken of it. Update the bare minimum that you need to. Bank the rest, so when it's time to move on, you've got money in the bank to get a house in a neighborhood that has houses that cost a little more and that's more to your liking, with better cabinets and maybe even granite counters!

Wanna talk tedious? lol...the picture below is the spare bedroom. All the wood on saw horses was sanded, stained and polyed by me. The room had these gawd awful circles, walls and ceilings. We had to sand them all down, then do 6 skim coats. Then we primed. I didn't like the walls or the ceiling. So I skim coated again. Then primed again. Still wasn't satisfied. Skim coated again, primed again, not perfect, but not bad for a 111 yr old house. Then we painted the walls and ceilings. See the wood work in the room? Around windows, doors you can't see and the baseboards? It was all painted. I stripped it, cleaned it, sanded it, stained it and polyed it. My husband helped with sanding the walls, a little bit of the skim coating and priming and painting. I did everything else...whew, I'm tired just remembering it all ;0) and I'm not done...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 18, 2007
1:51 AM

Post #3869518

Ooops! Forgot the picture! This is only part of all the wood I've had to stain and poly too...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 18, 2007
2:32 PM

Post #3870845

I just have a minute as we are heading out of town for the weekend. Ironically, I have been "asked/hired" by my in-laws to clean a dingy old house they are putting on the market. :-)

Ok, Terry, you and I must have very similar tastes, b/c we often have the same thoughts. lol! Too bad you're not my neighbor here! I agree with the middle cream color. It is called LATTE and I was trying not to be biased based on its name. lol!

The other colors in that palette are living room/hallway colors. Since it's so open, I thought they all needed to go well next to each other. Over in "Paints/Finishes" forum, I asked about a warm/beigey/peachy color. I want to bring out the rust color in our brick fireplace, but still go with the kitchen. I just did the entryway in that taupe color you see, and just for some variation, I thought I would do the living room in a different color. I saw an Oprah where Nate redid a house (they were selling), and he named the paint he used as Lowe's American Traditions WARM BUFF. It was very similar to the one I had tentatively decided on, but had just a bit more of a rusty cinnamon tone to it. I'm going with it!! It looked awesome with white trim, which may be a project down the road. ;-D

I will be repeating the entryway color, TOASTED CASHEW, in the hallway, which means it will be the "background" so to speak when you look out of the kitchen into the hallway.

Granite tiles are a consideration, for sure. One reason I want granite is for a look that is definitely different from the computer counter. I don't want two similar looking formicas. What to do...

As far as the "dining room". Oh, I know it's not a formal dining room. Yes, this is IT. That's the problem. When we first saw the house, they had a big hutch and large table in there. Not a ton of room, but it worked. I consider that a selling point, but now that we're here, we have a little table that seats four. We use our computer constantly and needed a place for all the papers, etc. So we built the computer counter thinking it would be a good place for anyone with a computer or even just paying bills, etc. It still left room for the table, but less room of course. Well, I'm sick of needing the room on all sides of the table for chairs. It seems like it would be a space saver to have the seating on the one side butted into that corner. It would be great if it were in an "eat in" kitchen and there WERE a formal dining room, but it's not. Like I said, this is it. So, I think it would be great for daily use, but may not be best for Christmas dinner. That's why I was wondering if nice materials might still give it an air of "formality." I had considered doing something to the bar area, like adding some neat tiles and adding bar stools, but that would eliminate space for a table, (I think.) It would at least add to the crowded feel.

Wow, that is an INCREDIBLY tedious job! Phew! I'm tired too, just thinking of it! lol!

Ok, gotta run! More later!

Thanks!!
Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 19, 2007
2:33 AM

Post #3872955

Robin, don't think your of dining area as being a problem. I honestly don't think it is. My cousins husband is in the HVAC trade and we recently had a family reunion. He was saying how the trend is now an open floor plan, nobody wants a formal dining room. The house I grew up in had a formal dining room with an eat in kitchen, but the new owners knocked down the wall between the 2 rooms. I think it's goofy, because that house has what my mom used as a formal living room, then we had the family room. It's just weird to me that now the house has both those rooms, but this huge kitchen.

With a Formica computer counter in the dining room, I'm not sure formal is the word that I would use. I'm also not sure about granite in the kitchen and Formica in the dining room. It just seems like the 2 rooms, being next to each other, should flow with the same materials. I think of a formal dining room and of course my parents comes in my head. Cherry long table, 8 matching chairs with white seats, matching buffet and hutch. The chandelier is a Swarovski. Big, huge and beautiful. The floors are a medium stained oak, with a border around the edge stained in cherry. Fireplace, with a cherry surround and mantel, marble for the hearth. Pocket door to close it off from the kitchen, french doors to close it from the foyer. My sister and I have fun with what we'd do. The fireplace and floors would stay the same. All furniture comes out. A huge old antique farm table and probably ladderback chairs. An antique pie safe where the hutch is and that would be it. Oh, a mirror above the mantel. We go back and forth on colors for the walls. Perhaps a chair rail, that doesn't look like the chair rails you buy now, but the kinds you'd find in an old house. They're usually just wood ripped to about 3" and routered. And we'd use 2 different colors. But I digress yet again...lol...

Using 2 different materials, such as Formica in 1 room and then to have granite in the other, just wouldn't look that good to me. Like you used up all the money on the kitchen and then skimped on materials for the computer counter. I don't think I would of put in a counter for my computer in the dining room. I'd of bought a desk or bought 2 wood file cabinets for either end of my plywood stained top. And put it someplace else. Something economical that I would take with me when I moved. Ever watch Sell This House? The sellers don't use the dining room, so they shove a table over into the wall and use it more for an office and potential buyers can't figure out if it's an office or a dining room?

That counter on the pass thru would probably come off fairly easy, especially if you could locate the screws. If you had somebody fashion another top, made of wood and put crown molding at the bottom of it and then put in a bench underneath that. Similar to the below picture. But this one stuck out over the edge, you'd want yours flush. I'd make the base or bench (with storage underneath) removable, then you'd specify that it went with you when you moved.

I'll post another picture so you get the top as a whole.

If you think doing that was work, then you don't want to know what all I've done in this house...lol...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 19, 2007
2:40 AM

Post #3872983

This is that area in the finished basement. We had the funny 4x4's as supports and this was my idea for the guy who finished the basement to cover those up, plus get rid of the 4x4's and use 2 2x6's nailed together instead for better support. Then they framed out the bottom part. I pretty much laid out how I wanted the basement and he did it for me...lol. He liked my idea for the cover up, but he thought I should have a counter top there, but I liked my idea much better ;0)

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 20, 2007
4:29 AM

Post #3876716

The best advice I ever got from a local RE agent was that a buyer's eye goes to the CHEAPEST thing in a room, and prices the house accordingly.

In other words, be consistent in both design and materials, and keep your home's basic systems well maintained. That will give you the best "bang for the buck". You're trying to make your home into something it isn't, and I don't think your local market will support it.

Good luck!
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 26, 2007
2:33 AM

Post #3900622

I haven't read but the first part of this thread, but dying to get in on this one...will be back later...

kitchen...first thing on lighting you just do is put flat flourescent lighting on the ceiling...those inexpensive 2x4 or even bigger if you can do it...
Next get your husband to run lighting on the top of the cabinets in the kitchen...it is just a n ugly wire with little lights every so often...
Put something decorative that you love on top of the cabinets...go to the junk store, find some old plates in different sizes and other things...you probably already have things you already own that could go up there...colorful vases, etc...

Now the lighting is solved...makes it look contemporary and have lots of light to not make you feel so enclosed...use formica in a really nice forest green on the counter tops...keeps you into the price of getting your money back...

I would not paint at all those cabinets...they will chip badly...just add a darker finish after one quick use of an electric sander ...they will look darker , glossy and very clean...

I couldn't help but notice your Talouse-Lautrec poster in the dining area...he is one of my favorite artists of all times...

I will go back and read the rest of your thread when my company goes home on Tuesday...this sounds very exciting...

i don't know what colors you have used so far...just know that green is always a neutral color and doesn't offend anyone...it looks good with any colors you have in the rest of the house...they even make formica now that doesn't show cuts or anything because there is a fleck in it...

have fun...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 26, 2007
2:15 PM

Post #3901609

Florescent belongs in the garage and the basement IMHO. There's many light fixtures out there that will give good light.

The painted cabinets won't chip if they have a clear finish on top, just like what was done in the bathroom.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 26, 2007
2:40 PM

Post #3901687

I agree with terryr, don't put fluorescent lights in the kitchen unless you have to (or unless they're already there and you don't want to replace them!). I have fluorescent lights in the kitchen (inherited from the previous owner) and I really don't like them, they do give a lot of light but they are just not as attractive as other kinds of lights. And paint on the cabinets is fine, if you do it right it won't chip.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 26, 2007
6:09 PM

Post #3902311

Ok...I give up...been there and done that twice in my life...painting old cabinets...didn't work for me, but may for you...Fluorescent light is very back in homes...even verrrry expensive homes...lots of choices...
I think I don't belong (LOL) in this decorating on DG...
But I must mention that all the homes I have remodeled have been featured in many magazines, including Southern living...so I just realize we don't all have the same taste in decorating...
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 26, 2007
8:31 PM

Post #3902740



This message was edited Aug 27, 2007 8:01 AM
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 26, 2007
9:30 PM

Post #3902967

That was very inconsiderate of me to brag which i did...and it is true what I have written. And...it is doubly tacky of you to make another post about fluorescent lights belonging in the garage...especially since it merely an opinion based on no knowledge of the new fluorescent lighting that will save money and energy as a nation.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 26, 2007
11:59 PM

Post #3903379

Actually, fluorescent lights have mercury in them. The mercury, although innocuous, can and should be distilled out of discarded fluorescent lamps before disposal. Halogen bulbs however, contain toxic bromine and iodine. Those chemicals are common in seawater and pose little health threat in such small quantities and can be disposed of without the worry that comes with fluorescent lighting. A halogen bulb's hotter filament gives it a whiter, more energy-efficient light, far superior to fluorescent lighting. Halogen is going to save money and energy, not fluorescent.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 27, 2007
12:25 AM

Post #3903482

You may win!!!!!!!!!!! It seems to be verrrrry important to you...even if you have to change the subject to win...you have won...without a hint of what i was saying...
Now why doesn't everyone get back to helping the person who asked for help in the beginning ...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 27, 2007
12:57 AM

Post #3903611

I didn't change the subject. You brought fluorescent lighting into the conversation and then went on to say that it would save money and energy for the nation. I was correcting your statement for anybody else who is reading that would potentially believe that fluorescent lighting is energy and money saving for any nation, when in fact, it's not.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 27, 2007
1:08 AM

Post #3903658

find someone else to fight with please...for others here is a good link on fluorescent lighting as put out by the US government:
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=cfls.pr_cfls

I will not be posting on this thread again...we have already hijacked it from the thread starter as is...thanks
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
1:36 AM

Post #3907862

ACK!! What happened here?! lol! Thanks for the info guys! Terry, you've been SO helpful, and I must admit, I think fluorescent lights do have that reputation of being rather institutional. But maybe they're better today than in the past? have heard halogen puts off heat, which I'm trying to avoid. I do think some under cabinet zenon (?) lights will be cool if I ever get that far. The previous owner did put up a rope light on the top of the cabinet, but it does not have a switch. It is plugged in via an outlet inside the spice cabinet (above the stove.)

I actually TRY to be very environmentally conscious, but have all around sucked at it since my first child was born. (2003!) I have been looking at light fixtures that might match the BARGAIN find I got for the dining room! I hope I like it once it's up!! I think silver would have been nice, but I think I'm going for more bronzey tones, maybe even black. I would make myself crazy trying to get ALL the fixtures to match perfectly, so I'm just shooting for close enough. ;-)

I am actually considering painting (with metallic paint) the fixture that's there and changing the globes.

The fixture was marked down to $33!! (It was over $100. I wonder if I should run back and get another to install in the living room?!?!) My husband is not 100% sold on the idea of losing the ceiling fan, but I THINK I convinced him by saying we could hang it in the garage, which is actually desperately needed out there! Hee hee!!

Gail, that is awesome that you have been published in Southern Living! Wahoo!! Yes, I took an old French Art calendar and framed two of my favorites. I

PS I'm still wanting a SOLATUBE and that should help bring lots of nice natural light in and not cost a cent! ;-D

Thanks so much, guys, I'm a bit stalled right now due to money and time issues, but I am definitely thinking all the time about all the choices!!

Robin

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 28, 2007
2:56 AM

Post #3908265

I love that light fixture...I just love brushed chrome or metal of any kind...look alike or the real thing...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
3:39 AM

Post #3908447

Hi Robin,

I wondered where you'd gone! I like that light fixture, way to go! You have nothing to lose by painting the fixture already in your kitchen. They have (Rust-Oleum) Black Night Metallic spray paint or one that I started to use for the old mailbox that was on this house (then decided that my copper post one was much better!) was hammered black. It really looked hammered, pretty darn neat looking. If you're needing a new/old mailbox that hangs on the house, just let me know ;0)

I recently bought the 2 x 4 fluorescent lights, 1 for the basement and 2 for the garage. No, they look exactly the same. Cheap. Thankfully, my families business uses the fluorescent tube lights, so I have a way to get rid of them when their life is over (a hazardous waste company comes and gets them to dispose of them correctly).

How's the bathroom coming along?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:32 AM

Post #3908608

Here is the silver spray paint I played with on an aging silver basket I had. I have yet to paint the bottom wicker portion white. :) It came out more "grey primer" than I would like. I wanted more actual silver, but I think you have to really coat it on to get the "hammered" effect, and hey, it was $5 a can. ;-)

I spent a good portion of this evening looking for a light fixture that would go in the kitchen with the new one in the dining room and it's going to be tough! I would definitely save money by just painting this one, then adding similar (alabaster) globes.

PS In this pic, I laid out the sample of the "Sedona Spirit" HD Laminate that I thought might look nice in this bathroom. ;-)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:34 AM

Post #3908609

Here's the light fixture in the kitchen that would get painted.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:38 AM

Post #3908622

Here is a pic of the bathroom upper cabinet BEFORE...

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:38 AM

Post #3908624

and AFTER.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:40 AM

Post #3908630

a pic of the bathroom lower cabinet BEFORE...

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
1:27 PM

Post #3909308

Well hmmm...mine didn't take much to get the hammered effect. I'm wondering if it's because I had more of a solid area than you've got? I'd coat it again to see if you couldn't get that hammered look. Also, have you seen this?
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=51&frm_product_id=12&SBL=1
I wonder if this color would be similar to the fixture you just bought? It's hard to tell on the picture, but it looks like an aged pewter on my monitor. What color does it say the light is?

The upper cabinet looks great! So much better with the duct tape off...lol! I like the pull, but I have to ask, is it antique brass? You did the Polycrylic on it too, correct? If not, in such a humid wet area like the bathroom, you're going to need to. Plus it'll stop the paint from possibly chipping.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 28, 2007
2:10 PM

Post #3909442

I think maybe the paint needs to be on a wider area before you'll see the hammered effect. The wires that basket is made of are pretty narrow, so you may not really be able to see the hammered effect, but if you did it on something that had wider areas maybe it would be more noticeable?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
3:31 PM

Post #3909700

I don't know what's going on with the bottom "after" pic. I've posted it twice now. I'll try again. :) Maybe I'm just tired.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
3:47 PM

Post #3909740

There! Finally it posted! Don't know what was going on.

The knobs and pulls are brushed nickel. I did polycrylic on both top and bottom cabinets. They have a thick finish that I don't THINK will chip easily. It has sort of a wet look which I don't think I'll care for quite as much in the kitchen, but I'm still happy that you shared that product with me, Terry! It really helped the durability I think.

Yes, I think you're right, ecrane, that the teeny little wires on the basket just aren't showing off the hammered finish. I'll try a second coat.

I'm really going back and forth between hardwood (saw a pretty "butterscotch" color) and DuraCeramic for the flooring options. I got a sample of laminate and soaked it in water overnight and it did warp SOME but not much. I thought that was pretty good, but people just seem to LOVE hardwood! Got a sample of that and dropped a can of spaghettios on it and it made a good sized dent. :-( Did not dent the laminate, but apparently it's not recommended for kitchens and baths and those are the areas I'm looking at. I wonder if my husband could install either of them ourselves??

The finish on the box of the light fixture says "metallic bronze". But I would almost call it a weathered patina. Maybe weathered pewter. Terry, that product looks like it would give me what I'm looking for more than the stuff I have. Thanks, I'll check it out.

I had a conversation with my husband about the cabinet paint color. I said that if we HONESTLY are NOT going to replace appliances with stainless steel (even in the next few YEARS,) then maybe I should go with a basic white on the cabinetry instead of the "latte" color I had chosen. He didn't specifically tell me we'd get new appliances, but in the end said that he liked the cream color better. It basically matches the color of the countertops, which I don't know if that's a good thing or not. But it will not match the white of the appliances. Decisions, decisions.

Gotta run - more later!
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 28, 2007
3:55 PM

Post #3909760

This is only and only my opinion...the kitchen light fixture really outdates the home...you could move it in the master bedroom where it would look nice...still need something flat and very contemporary in kitchen proper itself...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:03 PM

Post #3909781

What about this??

http://www.everychandelier.com/Murray-Feiss-F1838-4CB-MU1634.html
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 28, 2007
4:08 PM

Post #3909794

Actually there are some very nice fluorescent fixtures on the market as well as the new daylight and warm white fluorescents which are EXCELLENT, and more than comparable to incandescents. Electronic ballasts do away with all the annoying "hum" of the old type.

The downside is this market is still just beginning to get traction and the fixtures are much more expensive. However, one thing about living in CA is that we see everything about 15-20 yrs before everybody else! Title 24 effective last year mandates all remodels and new construction use 80% hard-wired fluorescent fixtures to save energy (we have some of the highest utility costs in the US). Already mfgs are starting to come out with better looking fixtures, or offer fixtures wired in your choice of incandescent or fluorescent.

Since Robin is working on a budget, I wouldn't worry about using fluorescents for now because the better stuff is out of her price range. However, within 5 yrs I'll expect to see serious market penetration start to appear, with the push CA is giving to the mfgs. We had low-flush toilets and tougher state car pollution laws long before other states, and this too, will spread across the US eventually.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:09 PM

Post #3909796

Ok, here's my next big idea before I really dig into the cabinet project. Tell me what you think:

Here's a pic. I want to add trim where that cheap routed plywood is. The only problem is, how do I add the trim on top of a hollow groove. Just nail it in place and assume there will be a bit of space in between the trim and the groove? Is this making sense?

Thanks for opinions!!

PS The master bedroom has a big vaulted ceiling and the same ceiling fan as in the dining currently. Really, do you think it would look that bad if it were painted and had matching swirled alabaster globes? I just kind of want it to blend in. Not stick out.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:12 PM

Post #3909810

Jkom, I wish we lived in California! Of course, then we'd only be able to afford a cardboard box. lol!

Here's another pic of the beaded trim I was thinking of trying.

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
4:15 PM

Post #3909823

another light fixture - not as crazy about this, but it might work.

http://www.everychandelier.com/Thomas-Lighting-SL8693-81-TL2730.html
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 28, 2007
4:23 PM

Post #3909858

I think your second choice is much better looking than the chande lier for the kitchen...still am going to search for a contemporary flat one that is inexpensive whether it uses fluorescent or regular lighting...it is the "look" you are after anyway...
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 28, 2007
5:48 PM

Post #3910108

I may should keep my mouth shut because I may not have the facts right...you need a fixure for the kitchen and you have a chandelier for the dining area not in the kitchen proper????? is that right??????????
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
6:08 PM

Post #3910181

right, the boxed fixture I bought to replace this ceiling fan light: (that wall is green now. lol!)

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 28, 2007
6:10 PM

Post #3910187

but what room is it going in?...the chandelier picture??????????
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
6:11 PM

Post #3910196

so now the "dilemma" is to find something that would work in the galley kitchen, which is open to the dining area. Here's that fixture as it is right now. I thought MAYBE I could paint it and add alabaster swirled globes to coordinate with the dining fixture and just have it kind of blend in, not really stand out.

Sorry if I'm not clear, I usually have chaos at my feet with 2 kids as I'm posting! Thanks for help! I need it!! lol!!

Robin ;-D

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 28, 2007
6:30 PM

Post #3910305

I am going to the lighting fixture site you showed us...and look just for fun...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
6:44 PM

Post #3910356

this chandelier looks like the same finish as the one I just bought and looks pretty small in size.
http://www.everychandelier.com/Murray-Feiss-F1838-4CB-MU1634.html

So I thought MAYBE it could go in the kitchen. Or, as I said, I might be able to paint what's there and switch out the globes. :)

Just as a reminder, this whole "remodeling" thing started with our entryway and I put THIS fixture in there. I am thinking of repeating it down the hall and by our back door. So I don't want too many of those inverted globe type fixtures. I even thought of just sticking one of these in the kitchen, but it's only 2 lights. :( You look straight at this entryway when standing in the kitchen.

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
9:38 PM

Post #3911055

Robin, I had that exact fixture you have in entryway in the kitchen down in TN. It wasn't a galley kitchen, so I had another light over by the stove. Below is the light fixture in this room, the parlor. It would look good in your kitchen, but maybe in a different color. I don't think you'd want a chandelier in the kitchen, you'd knock your head. I'd also try painting and buying some new globes for it before I bought something else. You never know till you try what it's going to look like.

Where's the ceiling fan you showed above? In the dining room or the living room? I remember you said you had one in the living room...?? If it is in the living room, I'm kind of with your husband in leaving it. I've only got 1 ceiling fan on the first floor and it's in the living room. Or change it out to one that you like better. I don't like lights on mine, so we use table and floor lamps. And yes, I actually walk to the lamp and turn it on...lol. The bedroom has a small lamp on my husbands dresser and another one on mine. Our daughter however, loves the ceiling light/fan combo.

That paint isn't going to chip off with the sealer coat on top. Did you use satin or semi-gloss for the Polycrylic? I only use satin, but I guess you could say it has a certain sheen to it. But then again, any new wood cabinet that you'd buy is going to have a finish on it too.

For that trim you want to add, can you find a piece that's maybe a little wider? That way there would be no gap. That's not going to look right, IMHO. If it was wider, it would cover the whole thing. I also wouldn't nail it, I'd use Liquid Nails or wood glue at the very least.

jkmom, that's funny about CA getting things 15-20 yrs before others do (which I seriously don't doubt!). Our builder in TN said they were the ones who always got the newest and latest gadgets in...lol.

Here's the picture of the light fixture in here

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
9:41 PM

Post #3911067

I forgot to add that this fixture takes 2 100 watt bulbs. It's very bright in here with that light on!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
9:49 PM

Post #3911092

the ceiling fan shown above is in BOTH the dining and the living room. They are only about 10-12 ft. apart, I'd say. That's why I think it might work. In a perfect world, a fan would be nice, but right now, I'm going more for looks. The place is only 1130 sf. I mean, come on, we should just turn up the air if we need to!! lol!! ;-D I am hoping this gives the small kitchen/dining area enough panache to offset its small size.

Terry, did you like that light in the kitchen? I'm thinking about it, I guess. I love your fixture. Esp. in the silver. If I were doing silver hardware, I'd go for it!! I'll keep searching for alabaster globed semi-flush mount light fixtures!! The one day I was able to drag hubby to a kitchen showroom, he liked a black knob with what looked like wheat stalks circling around it. I think something like that would be nice.

Ok, time for dinner! More later!! Thanks for the input!!

Robin ;-D

This message was edited Aug 28, 2007 4:53 PM
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 28, 2007
9:50 PM

Post #3911098

forgot to add, that's a good idea on the trim. I actually LOOKED for a skinny piece, b/c in my mind, that's what I needed. I was trying to avoid taking off a cabinet to haul into the store, since I'm not fully sure when I'll get the project going for real.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
10:04 PM

Post #3911130

http://www.everychandelier.com/Murray-Feiss-SF177CB-MU2418.html
http://www.everychandelier.com/Kichler-3121TZ-KI2470.html
http://www.everychandelier.com/Craftmade-X-124-XX-FD5960.html
http://www.everychandelier.com/Quoizel-QE169Z-QZ2535.html
http://www.everychandelier.com/Sea-Gull-Lighting-75061-782-GX2784.html

Like brush antique copper? http://www.everychandelier.com/Thomas-Lighting-M2993-14-TL1767.html

Goodness! They have a lot of light fixtures I think would look neat in there...lol.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
10:37 PM

Post #3911232

It was an upside down L-shaped kitchen. In the __ part, was the fridge and the sink, pantry beside the fridge. That's where the light like yours was. There were also those can lights (2 of them) above the sink, which I don't like and never used. In the l part, was the majority of cupboards and the stove. Above the stove was the light pictured below and showing that area. It doesn't show the whole thing, but it's a pendent light. I bought it up here, long before we moved, took it with us down there, and it's currently in a box somewhere in the basement. it's waiting to be put up in the hallway upstairs when we get the skim coats, painting and refinishing of floors done that is. Did I like the one like yours? Not really. I would of preferred something that was semi-flush, but with the pantry door, it could only be flush ;( I would of rather had semi-flush, because they give off more light than those particular flush mount styles.

Just measure the width of the gap and add just a hair. You don't need to drag in a door with you, just measure it at home. You can always return it if it's not right.

I don't think I've ever seen a chandelier in a living room. It's just my opinion of course, but I'm not sure I'd like it. If anybody has pictures of one though, I'd love to see. I just can't picture it in my head. Seems like it would be more formal looking?

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
10:48 PM

Post #3911270

You know what? The light above is the one I purchased to replace mine when we decided to sell. Here's picture I just found that my dad took when we first moved in. Counters are a mess. You can see that my light is similar to the one I bought to replace it, mine just flares out more (and more expensive!). I wondered why it didn't look quite right...lol. You can see the original pulls that the builder put on. Yes, they're brass and ceramic and I specifically said no brass. I also hadn't painted yet.

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
11:06 PM

Post #3911308

Remember you said you wanted a stainless steel sink? I had one and I disliked it. I found the exact one at Lowe's...it was $39 and only 5" deep. Ever tried to put a bucket under a faucet in a sink that shallow? Anyway, this is what I put in instead. I also changed out the faucet. I'm sorry, the only pictures of I have of when we moved in are the ones my dad took, so I don't have one that shows the original sink and faucet. All mine were lost when my computer crashed. Back up your pictures!!

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 28, 2007
11:07 PM

Post #3911312

And here's the whole area. I didn't get the light fixture in the shot...lol...doesn't it always happen?

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 29, 2007
2:59 PM

Post #3913546

Thanks for the pics, Terry. :-)

Ok, I feel bad that all of you are out there searching light fixtures for me! lol! I had previously looked at several of those you linked, Terry, and liked some, had issues with others, BUT...

CHECK THIS OUT!

Tell me what you guys think. I used the hammered spray paint in a VERY quick way. I would definitely need to do a second coat, but I think this will work. As I said, I just kind of want it to blend in and work with everything else. I'm pretty happy for now. (I see that I actually painted on dust. Ugh. I didn't even take it completely down. I really thought it would not look good, so I did a super shoddy job. My husband couldn't believe I spray painted in the house, but it worked!)

PS The globes I stole from a ceiling fan in my son's room. No big deal.



This message was edited Aug 29, 2007 10:00 AM

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jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

August 29, 2007
3:43 PM

Post #3913706

Looks great! I'd go for it. Can't beat the price, LOL!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 29, 2007
9:47 PM

Post #3915031

Robin, I was bored...lol. Wish I'd of seen that place before I broke the bank on the ones I've got. Oh well.

I like it! I knew it would look good spray painted and with different globes! The dust, well it just adds a certain penash that no other light fixture has...LOL!
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 29, 2007
10:15 PM

Post #3915137

great job and it looks just like you want it to...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 30, 2007
1:35 PM

Post #3917521

Thanks, everyone. I wouldn't have picked it out of the store or anything, but as Jkom said, can't complain about the price! ;-)

Now, I have to buy a belt sander and I'm thinking of buying a paint sprayer. Opinions? Recommendations? I was thinking of these:

sander
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0007XXHGE/ref=ord_cart_shr/103-9226232-7215806?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

paint gun
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0009KN9LI/ref=ord_cart_shr/103-9226232-7215806?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

maybe this would suffice?
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00006FRPJ/ref=ord_cart_shr/103-9226232-7215806?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

With only $10 difference, I just want what will make the job easier. Plus, it's not like we wouldn't use it again in the future.


The other things I'm considering for now are, what kind of trim might look nice on top of the cabinets. This was a cheap one I found: (I would have to buy quite a bit of it, so price definitely matters, but of course, I want it to look good.)
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=4137-746-L001448&lpage=none

I'm going back and forth on cabinet pulls, also. Gail, you said something about being careful that black doesn't bring a Spanish look. :-) I have seen cream colored cabinets that I really like with wrought iron hardware. I think this would be very pretty:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=133491-103-BP1581-WID&lpage=none

But the way things are headed in our kitchen, I'm beginning to reconsider nickel. I also like bronze, but I think that rustic thing looks better in a living room. For a kitchen to look truly updated, I think silver, which goes with stainless, is a good way to go. What about this, it seems kind of like a combo of contemporary and traditional:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=132265-81227-PBF532YBSPCP&lpage=none

or this one:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=89226-00214-P4212-AP&lpage=none
Yikes, $8 though! ;-D

and a pull:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=89226-00214-P7344-SPA&lpage=none

Thanks for opinions! I just love getting ideas from you guys! Wish we could all go shopping and out to lunch together!! lol!

Robin ;-D


robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 30, 2007
2:00 PM

Post #3917605

Wow, have you all seen the ads for Home Depot and Lowe's? Seems like a lot of Labor Day sales are going on. :)
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 30, 2007
2:05 PM

Post #3917616

Personally, I am sorry that I chose the brushed chrome for my kitchen...I almost used the ceramic ones...wish I had...the chrome look is so overdone...my cabinets would have looked so much better with a tan ceramic knob...

I am running late...be back this afternoon with some more ideas and pics...

Why are you going to spray your cabinets???????? Mine were painted by hand...

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 30, 2007
2:06 PM

Post #3917622

sorry...that wasn't the pic I was going to show...I will take one this afternoon with all the lights on under the counter, etc...
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 30, 2007
2:24 PM

Post #3917690

It's easier to get a nice smooth paint job on cabinets if you use the sprayer. It can be done by hand (I painted mine by hand too at my old house) but you have to be a lot more careful about it to get a smooth finish. Spraying is also faster.

On the cabinet pulls--I'd try not to get too many different colors of metal going in the kitchen, personally I think things look more pulled together if you have similar metals throughout. So you could match them to the metal in your light fixture. Or if you fall in love with a particular metal for the cabinet pulls, you could repaint the light fixture to match.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 30, 2007
3:03 PM

Post #3917813

That's not a belt sander. It's a palm sander. You can find them at your local Ace, HD, Lowe's, our SW store has them...they're easy to find. You don't need to order one online. Oh, Sears has a good one too. For a sprayer, you can rent them. I wouldn't buy. I need to go away for the morning/afternoon, I'll be back later. I just wanted you to have this information. BTW, I love my brushed nickel pulls and knobs!! Ceramic are too country-ish for me.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 30, 2007
3:14 PM

Post #3917852

I just happen to have $50 in gift certif. from Amazon. Plus, in buying something I know NOTHING about, I was going by reviews. :)

Renting a sprayer is a good idea. I wonder how much...

So which do I need a belt or palm sander? I have NO IDEA about this. lol! ;-)

I really don't want to go with a bunch of different metals either, ecrane. That drives me nuts. So which are you guys recommending? The weathered pewter, which might go best with both light fixtures? Plus it would go with some of my stainless small appliances and maybe SOMEDAY stainless large appliances! ;-D

As far as resale for the future, I am trying to appeal to a young, hip couple with maybe some more contemporary/eclectic tastes as well as a more country-style lovin' family types.

Gail, I think your kitchen is pretty and the knobs look great! :-)

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. Keep it comin'!!

PS Is anyone else enjoying a "cold spell" today? It's 77 degrees here today!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 30, 2007
8:17 PM

Post #3918847

Robin, a belt sander is a bigger harder to handle sander. I wouldn't recommend it. If you slip with it, it will make a gouge in your wood. I'd go with a palm sander. I've got 2 and I use them all the time. Seems I'm always doing something ;) Renting the sprayer is probably dependent on where you live, as with most everything. I think when we inquired about it for painting some horizontal lattice, that it was $50 a day. They also have these unique little sort of aerosol type things you can use. Here, they were $10. You used your own paint, but it only held about 2 pints maybe and after that, you had to buy another. So it's not really very cost conscious. To rent a sprayer, you need to do all your prep work first, then go get the sprayer and spray primer, then paint. I'd brush on the Polycrylic. I'm not sure if you can spray the Polycrylic, I know it comes in a spray can, but when I used it, it bubbled. And just like ecrane said, spraying them is giving you a better overall smooth finish.

For the different metals...I like a variety of metals, just like I like a variety of woods and a variety of colors. My kitchen light fixture is that burnished copper look, my knobs and pulls are nickel, my faucet is chrome, my stove and micro have stainless steel with black, my toaster oven has chrome with black. The door to the basement has the old blackened original doorknob and plate, the 1/2 bath off the kitchen has a nickel doorknob and the back door, right beside the 1/2 bath, is black. It's all in what you like and what's pleasing to your eye. If you like the metals to all match, then do that! Don't let any of us sway your decision. We don't live there, you do!

Hey Gail, I love the color you painted on your cabinets up there. My girlfriend and family recently moved into a house with those types of cabinets, but in the wood. My girlfriend can't stand them, can't afford to replace, so wants to paint them. The color that shows up on my monitor would be PERFECT in her house! Would you give me permission to send her an e-mail with the above picture?
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 30, 2007
10:11 PM

Post #3919270

Terry...thanks and you are more than welcome to send the following pics...that picture doesn't show much...my kitchen and breakfast area is open...
You said something about country...this is a 75 year old farm house that has knotty pine walls throughout...that is why I wanted to remodel it and live in it...so sound proof with these painted knotty pine walls...

i have the paint cans down at the barn and I can give you the exact color of the cabinets...some local man made them at home and brought them out to install them...Oh...I forgot the reason i chose this color for the cabinets is that is the same burnished mustard yellow as my chairs are...

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 30, 2007
10:13 PM

Post #3919278

you can see that the counter top is all that divides these two areas...those glass cabinet doors have underlight zeon lighting in them...just to separate the two rooms a little bit...

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 30, 2007
10:16 PM

Post #3919298

I put the gro-lights in to lead you from the kitchen into the same room you jut saw...(only the opposite end of the room)

I remember that it was Benjamin Moore paint...I think the lighter yellow was called Straw...and the darker one I will have to look...

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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 31, 2007
3:17 AM

Post #3920254

Oh no Gail! When I said country, I meant the decorating style that is referred to as being country.Lots of cutesy knick knacks around and such. Bunnies and bears are 2 pretty popular items in country decorating. I bought a small cabinet that holds a VCR, a DVD and that sort of thing. It's pine, with the 2 top doors having glass in them and the 2 bottom being solid, to hold movies or whatever. The knobs on it are ceramic. I've been wanting to paint it black for a long time. I'm changing out the ceramic knob to ones in the blackened nickel. I also have an end table, that I bought in one of the stores that carry the country decorating type stuff. It's also pine, but it's drop leaf. Both side of the end table drop down, leaving you with a narrow middle part and drawer. You can either put both sides up, 1 side down, or both sides down, depending on how you'd want it. It also has the ceramic knob on the drawer. That's getting refinished in red mahogany with a blackened nickel knob. Both those items are (crammed) here in this room, waiting for the floors to be refinished up in the spare room, and of course for me to paint and refinish them. Most things I see that I would call that type of decorating style, will have either a wood knob or a ceramic one. That was what I meant. Our house is 111 yrs old and is referred to as a farm house style. It doesn't fit into any other category I guess...lol. My girlfriend wasn't so lucky to have custom made cabinetry in her kitchen. They're nice enough, but the finish on them just isn't to her liking. They're birch with the same type of panels I see in yours. FWIW, I love the brushed nickel knobs on yours. I will forward on the pictures and I'd love to know the name of the darker color. Thank you! Your kitchen is very nice.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 31, 2007
3:42 AM

Post #3920347

I will try and find out...all the kitchen and bath cabinets I have ever had made are made out of birch...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 31, 2007
3:46 AM

Post #3920358

Went to dinner with friends tonight. YEA!! He flips houses on the side and has sander, sprayers, tile cutters, whatever we would need! Yahoo!! I am so glad now that I didn't use my Amazon birthday money on those things. I can now shop for something else! ;-D

I pulled out my swatches (colors) to show my girlfriend. She is a very opinionated woman and didn't say anything at first when she saw the cream paint color for the cabinets. I think she expected pure white. Also, I'm second guessing the green. I see SO MANY honey/beigey colored kitchens. I love that color, but I'm doing that in the living room. I guess I went with the green for some punch and also to tie in with the green/black computer counter. Does anyone NOT LIKE the green on the walls? It's not too late to change. I'm not afraid to buy new paint. I will have to ask hubby if he has decided he likes it or not. :-) It's funny how they say they don't care, it's not their thing, it's all fine with them, until they DON'T like something, then they have quite the opinion on everything!! ;-D

Gail, your house is so pretty! You guys are killing me with these pics of beautifully decorated, spacious rooms! lol! I saw that you love African Violets! That cabinet with the Gro-Lights is so awesome! What a neat idea!! I might have to steal that for somewhere in here! ;-D Oh and I agree with Terry, the cabinets are very nice looking!!

Opinions on the trim added to the cabinets? Worth the trouble?? How would that look? Seems easy enough and would distinguish the cabinetry from the rest of the cabinets in the house. Would you go with a beaded design, leaf design, simple raised panel?

I won't even get into countertops and floors right now. I go back and forth all the time!!

Good night! I'm pooped!! Thanks so much for the input, everyone!!
Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 31, 2007
3:48 AM

Post #3920367

Those cabinets above are birch? You're kidding me? If they are, it's a small world...lol. I've sent the pictures that shows the cabinets the best on to her. I can't wait for her to see! There might be more painting in my future... that isn't in or on my own house...LOL!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

August 31, 2007
4:01 AM

Post #3920415

On the green...I can't remember if you already posted a pic of your green swatch, but as long as it's a neutral sagey sort of green that should appeal to plenty of people. If it's neon green, or St. Patty's day green, then that's another story!

As far as the trim--if you're just doing this for yourself, then go with whatever trim you like the best. But if you're doing it also to appeal to the widest range of people possible if you sell the house in a year or two, I would probably go with the simpler trim. Definitely not the leaves, I think those are going to be a little more polarizing for potential buyers since they might not go with everyone's style. The beaded trim would be a little better, but since that's not something you see often on cabinets it also may not appeal to everyone (anytime you have something out of the ordinary, it can turn some people off). Although personally I think the beaded one or the leaves would be pretty and unique!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 31, 2007
4:02 AM

Post #3920419

I want to understand your house better. I'm thinking it's an open floor plan, with the living room and dining area side by side, kitchen is in back of (or in front of?) the dining area? More pictures please to show where dining area is in conjunction with living room? Kitchen is only open to dining area and living room with the pass thru?

How would you do a simple raised panel working with the routered out areas? I'm not understanding, sorry ;( I, personally, like the beaded trim. I don't know what it is about leaves, wheat or flowers for me, love them outside in my yard and gardens, but don't care for them in the house. I'm weird, I know. And that's in MY house BTW, not anybody else's house!

Robin, I also wanted to say that usually the first idea that pops into my head is the one I should always go with. Sometimes, I get talked into (my sister!) something different than I wanted and I always regret it. Painting is easy though to fix! TG!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 31, 2007
4:53 AM

Post #3920519

Thanks for the input, everyone!

Yes, it's a sagey green. This thread is gargantuous, but I THINK there is a pic up there showing the new paint on the wall. I'll try and post something else here in a minute.

Here is an example of a moulding/trim that I was thinking I could cut and nail on top of my cabinets before I paint them:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=4137-746-L001448&lpage=none

The one I bought (that is too small) is pictured here and has a beaded design, but is just a bit too narrow to fit over the routed part, so it wouldn't really work. But, Terry as you pointed out, to simply go for a wider option, I think that would work. BUT...would nails be visible? Any way I can do it more professionally to avoid that? How are (real) cabinets made with this kind of trim? Nailed from the back perhaps??? Again, I have no idea. ;-)

Ok, I'm off to see if I can find some better pics of my living/dining/kitchen area. :-) Scroll back up and see if any of those above make sense.

Thanks!! (Didn't I say I was going to sleep? I'm shopping on Amazon!! lol!)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 31, 2007
1:53 PM

Post #3921368

I would use Liquid Nails. I also want to see how your kitchen is in conjunction with living room and dining area. Are they all separate rooms and can have different paint? Isn't there a part where the kitchen and dining area share a wall? How will you define that part, if not painting all the way into the dining area? I hope that makes sense...
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 31, 2007
1:56 PM

Post #3921385

In a small house (like mine) I used the same color on the walls throughout...except I used aborigine in all the baths...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

August 31, 2007
1:59 PM

Post #3921393

Hi guys,

Ok, here is a link to our homepage, which has pics of our home when we first bought it. (2003)

I tried to update it last night with more current pics, but then I remembered why it's such a pain in the butt. Since we bought a newer camera a few years ago, I have to resize each pic. I will go ahead and do it sometime today if the kiddos let me. But hopefully this will help. :) Let me know if it does not!!

http://www.angelfire.com/home/joeynrobin/firsthome.html
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

August 31, 2007
2:09 PM

Post #3921441

Cute house from the street...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

August 31, 2007
3:27 PM

Post #3921733

I would probably be tempted to do varying shades of the color you like the best, since all 3 rooms are open to each other. For instance, the dining area and kitchen could be the same, with your living room a couple shades darker. Bedrooms and baths could be painted their own colors. Our first house was a small house at only 1080 sq ft. It had a cathedral ceiling that spanned the living room into the eat in kitchen. In the kitchen, on the only wall that wasn't shared with the living room, I did the pine plank tongue and groove and painted it with milk paint in a shade I sort of created on my own. Like Gail, I was matching up to my chairs, which are blue. The hallway was the same color as the lr and kitchen, except it had oak on the bottom half, oak chair rail and what they call picture framing. I'm sorry I don't have any pictures ;( they crashed along with my old computer. The bedrooms (3) and 1 bath, were all painted differently. In this old house, even though it's not an open floor plan and the rooms are visible from each other, they have wood trim going all around the openings. Only 2 opening don't have either a door or a pocket door. So I felt confident in painting them all separate colors. The colors flow, but I didn't have to figure out where to stop a color. Newer houses have just drywall for the corners into the next room. You have to stop a color somewhere on the corner piece and continue with the next color, making it smooth and even.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 2, 2007
3:58 PM

Post #3928435

Hi everyone!

Thanks, Terry, for the advice. I posted a pic of a palette I had tentatively decided upon. The lighter beige is Behr's "Toasted Cashew" and started this whole redecorating mania! I wanted to get rid of the wallpaper in my entryway and redo the floor. Done. :) Then I chose a slightly warmer, darker shade, which I've yet to paint, which will tie in with the very dark brick fireplace. It is Valspar's "Warm Buff". It was basically what I was trying to find, then Nate mentioned it on a show on Oprah and I decided on it.

The kitchen/dining area, which shares walls, are the sage green, "Marine Reef." However, I want the two rooms to have separate identities, so I am fine with the flooring and counters to be different.

I am starting to rethink the cream cabinets. I found THIS PICTURE on HGTV's Rate My Space and in reading the comments, learned that these are PAINTED CABINETS. I have NO IDEA if I could find the shade that would pull this off, but I think it might go over better in our kitchen than cream. I simply LOVE LOVE LOVE the French country and Tuscan inspired kitchens with cream glazed cabinets and wrought iron hardware, but I am beginning to think our house will not be able to pull that look off. I might be better off trying to go "contemporary" to bring an updated feel instead of "rustic".

Thoughts??

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 2, 2007
4:56 PM

Post #3928598

On the flip side of the contemporary look is this:

http://ratemyspace.hgtv.com/SNC/ViewItem.aspx?pguid=6db6be3f-1720-4ba3-a081-999042c09b6b&itemguid=104b395e-a92e-46ed-929f-42c7d7dc6dc9

Does it get any cuter? ;-D It even has the bench/banquette feature I was wanting to try. I'm posting a pic in case the above link does not work. When I see kitchens like this, I rethink my sage green, but this is basically the "Warm Buff" that I am going to do in the living room.

Thanks for opinions on which look you think I should try for!
PS Wish me luck on getting my husband to install the light fixture today. I am thinking of painting the wood trim in the octoganal recessed area white first. I would like to go to all white trim eventually. Have to start small though. I kind of want that feature to disappear, because I don't really like it.

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 2, 2007
9:46 PM

Post #3929442

Warm buff is a real winner...you could still use warm buff and brick red anywhere...
One reason it is so hard to recreate that Tuscany look is because none of us has the money to use all the commercial appliances...the black wrought iron look to me belong either in a spanish hacienda (quite large and open) or the Tuscany look ...Our small homes we don't need those fabulous commercial ovens, stove tops , copper or hoods, etc...we could never get our money out of them...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 2, 2007
11:32 PM

Post #3929693

Yes, I agree. I may not be able to get new appliances either, at least not right now.

What do you think about painting the wood on this recessed tray? I REALLY want to, but wonder if I would regret it. Wish I could try it and "erase" it if I didn't like it. lol! I guess it doesn't exactly work that way, does it? ;-)

So, your recommendation would be to lean towards the "contemporary" look? What do you all think about painting the cabinets a cherry wood like color? I would appreciate that it would be free of that heavy grain at least. I really think paint is necessary to help hide all the wear on these cabinets. At least going with a wood like color would make inevitable knicks less noticeable. I also was trying to figure out, if I painted in cream, where does the paint end? The inside of the drawers and doors are worn and could use freshening up. White is so high contrast, I would have to go all or nothing with painting the insides of everything.

If you look at pics of my living room, our fireplace has a lot of oak too, which is directly across from the recessed octoganal tray in the dining area. Would it look weird to paint one and not the other? I WOULD like to eventually do something like maybe paint the brick and/or mantle, but I'm not at all sure about it yet. I wouldn't want to make a decision about the dining room that would affect the mantle later.

Is this making any sense?

Thanks for all the input! Hope everyone is enjoying a wonderful Labor Day weekend!!

PS Here is a pic of the sage green wall with my original prints hung back up. I really like the smooth cherry look with the green. I had my daughter hold up a couple of other wood samples. I think the "oak" looks very country with the green, whereas the cherry looks more high end and modern. Agree? Disagree?

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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 2, 2007
11:33 PM

Post #3929695

Sorry, here again is a pic of the recessed area. (not sure what to call this!)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 2, 2007
11:43 PM

Post #3929712

don't paint the recessed area...just brings attention to it...

Please don't use a cherry red...use a brick red on the cabinets...cherry just looks pink and you don't want pink I don't think...I have painted many a fireplace made of bricks...I usually paint them like the white of the baseboards and any molding that might exist...then paint the walls whatever I wish...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
12:11 AM

Post #3929761

I've never wanted to recreate a Tuscany look, so I'll believe what Gail says...lol. I like the first photo the best, but not because of the lighting or the appliances. The cabinets are more traditional in appearance in my head...which is assuming I know what traditional really is...lol. Gail, is the color of the first pictures cabinets what you're referring to as brick red? If so, Ben Moore historical color Georgian brick looks close. On my monitor anyway. Not sure about having a sample in my hand. Well, o.k. I have a sample. I have the Color Preview of historical colors and it's in it. There's another sample called Garrison Red. You might want to check them out. Or print out the photo and take it with you to get the one that's closest. Print it on photo paper if you can, it's more accurate. I would rather see the Warm Buff on the walls with the reddish colored cabinets than the white. I have wrought iron drapery rods and a wrought iron chandelier. To me, the style I have anyway, looks old. Like my house. The wrought iron is simple though. My mom used to have wrought iron on her end tables in the house I grew up in. It was a step up into the formal living room and that had a wrought iron railing. They were all the scallopy style though. My mom had a designer, who called it Mediterranean. Not a clue what that means ;D

To me, since it's a dining area and not a room, it should be similar to the kitchen, if not the same. If it was a room, then yes, I'd probably paint it different. For instance my kitchen is painted Hot Apple Spice and my dining room is painted Richmond Gold. The colors really compliment each other though. If you have the money to put in a tile back splash, then I can see the kitchen painted one color and the dining room another color. The back splash would go up to the underside of the cabinet. No, you couldn't do that either. I just went back up and checked the photo. The wall is the same wall above the cabinet. Just making a line with 2 colors of paint, doesn't look good IMHO. I've seen it done, seen it live and in person, and I thought it looked dumb. Made no sense to me at all. Sorry Robin, not what you wanted to hear ;( And if was my house, I'd paint the back of the cabinet that shows in the dining area the same color as the kitchen cabinets, since it's part of the kitchen cabinetry anyway.

I am so glad you said you wanted to paint the trim in where the ceiling fan is. I didn't get that at all. We had what looked like a 6 x 6, only in drywall, that went from the 8 foot middle wall end, to the ceiling in the house with the cathedral ceiling. The house settled and the drywall "post" pulled away from the ceiling. So the builder came back and put trim up there. I hated it! Next time we painted, it got painted too. Then it blended. I'm not a "white ceiling" person though. I've never liked white ceilings. I always paint them the same or a couple shades darker than the room. Just my own personal preference. Nothing lazy about doing it that way, I just prefer the look better. Since I love the deep dark colors, they all look better with the same color ceiling. I painted the kitchen in TN that I pictured above Dove White, but only because the room faced north and I was afraid it being red would be too dark. Then I didn't like it, but didn't have enough paint and my husband looked at me like I'd grown another head, so it was left. I always hated it though. If we had stayed there, it would be red now though. I also would of taken off that crown molding on top of the cabinets. I like plain. That was too fancy for my tastes, but the builder did it and didn't ask my opinion. It also didn't help that he pieced the crown molding together. One side of a cabinet that are what? 12" deep? Pieced together. Cheap and tacky looking.

So anyway, that's my opinion! Here's a picture of my chandelier in the dining room. It was taken last Dec. The Swarovski crystals are always on it, as is the red bead garland.

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
12:15 AM

Post #3929768

I only have 8 ft. ceiling so I could never use a darker color than the walls...the ceiling is already a feeling of being too low...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
12:28 AM

Post #3929804

See how long it takes for me to type a reply? My gosh!

I really disagree about painting that trim in the recessed area. If painting it does anything, it makes it disappear. Since I typically scream at people who paint brick, cannot fathom why anyone would paint brick!...I wouldn't paint the brick. But that mantel, I'd paint it black and paint the wood or whatever it is above it, the color of the walls. It's far enough away from the trim, that black would look good.

Good thing I hit preview...lol! Gail, I've always had 8 ft ceilings, except for the cathedral and this house. I've always painted them the same or darker. For instance, in the master bathroom, the walls were something like Enchanted and the ceilings were Plummy. It was really cool looking, but I never could get in there right to get a picture. To me it's a mind thing. Some people think dark colors are going to make a room smaller, but they don't. I had one bedroom white, then I had it yellow, then a sage green and finally navy blue. It never looked any different in size and nobody who saw it said it was a small room...not even my mom who about fell off the chair when I told her I was painting the small bedroom navy. And trust me, my friends are ones who tell me when they don't like something and my mom will always tell me when she doesn't like something.

Oh, this house, the bathroom has 8 ft ceilings. Not only 8 ft ceilings, but a cove ceiling to boot. I painted the wall that goes into the ceiling navy and the other walls are a deep tan. Here's a pic. Well, heck, I can't add a pic here or I'll lose everything. I'll do it next post.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
12:36 AM

Post #3929837

Here's the bathroom, standing at the claw foot tub, looking the opposite way.

Thumbnail by terryr
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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
12:37 AM

Post #3929840

And here's looking towards the tub...ceilings not really in the picture, but gives an idea of size for the bathroom.

Thumbnail by terryr
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
12:47 AM

Post #3929865

I really don't like brick fireplaces unless they are painted...but that is just a personal thing...(unless of course, i got to pick the color of the brick when the fireplace is built)...and I always paint the brick and the mantel the same white as the trim...

You have to remember that I am 65 and you all are young...I started out with loving the very traditional look...put all money into Baker, Kittinger, etc...furniture plus fine antiques...Then, as I started on my 12th house to remodel just a couple of years ago, I called my kids and told them to bring UHaul trucks...that I no longer needed or wanted any of the antiques...just to leave me enough furniture for my little house...

I saw your chandelier and have to admit my oldest daughter has 20 foot ceilings throughout her house except for the bedrooms and halls which are 15 ft high...She has one of the crystal chandeliers with many colors and mixed with all antique furniture I gave her...so part of it is just age...I have always like the wood and wrought iron chandeliers personally...once again, more traditional

In this house (my last place to live on this earth I hope)...I have just gotten a little funky in my old age...but I still can't use anything but a matte finish on all paint...even though it is enamel...it has no sheen...and I still have to have the same white on the ceilings through out the house...the ceilings are all knotty pine wood...

I still like to pick up color in accent pieces of furniture, art and other ways than the paint on the walls...

'Me thinks' we are two different generations...that makes a big difference...

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
2:14 AM

Post #3930173

No Gail, I don't think we're really that far apart. Honest! I prefer a matte finish on walls, but in the bathroom, I went with an eggshell, that looks more semi-gloss to me. I had a new exhaust fan installed because there wasn't one, but it doesn't work all that good and the walls get moisture running down them. So this is probably easier to clean, but eggshell would of been easy to clean too. And it would of been what I wanted. The cans said eggshell, but as you can see from the photo, there's a sheen to it. I don't think our age difference has anything to do with it at all. It's just personal preference. And yes, there's been brick I don't care for, so if I had something like was say that yellow brick? Yep, I'd paint it in a heartbeat. On my own and owning though, we've never had any brick to paint. I don't care for baseboards or trim painted, but if it has to be, then I like gloss. Weird, huh? We've only lived in 3 houses. We lived in our first house for 21 yrs. Second home was because company moved, and it had painted woodwork. New house and it was the cheap MDF trim made for paint, so it was either live with it or rip it out. We only lived there 17 months though. The pictures you've shown of your house, I love. I love everything that you've done and I really can't say that I would want you to change anything that you've done. My mom is just a few years older than you. She wouldn't live in my house and she wouldn't live in your house. She likes new and she likes fine everything. She likes white walls and white ceilings. Imagine my surprise when I ran out late winter to water her plants while they were gone, and she'd had her kitchen painted in a beautiful gold color. I almost fell down! It doesn't go at all though with the rest of the house. The only other rooms with color would be bathrooms...and I do call beige color...lol. So please don't be offended if I disagree with anything that you say. It's not meant to say that you're wrong and I'm right. I just disagree, that's all.

I actually would love to see more pictures of your home, if you don't mind sharing more. Or do you have a journal here? Start a new post or send me pics in a d-mail. Really! Oh by the way, thanks for calling me young...lol. I'm 48...49 in November. And don't say it's young compared to you!

The biggest DANG though, is you got rid of all your antiques?? The furniture in the photo's you've shared look like antiques to me! I think I got my love of antiques from my grandpa. He was always on the hunt for old things to refinish. And they were always beautiful when he finished!
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:28 AM

Post #3930212

I kept the smaller pieces of furniture and gave the kids larger pieces...my heart at this age belongs to my grandchildren, children, church activities, the prison ministry and my plants!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is fun getting older...

16 years older and interests change...here are just a few pics I had to take for homeowners's insurance...live too far out for insurance man to come look (LOL)...

Just so you know...I didn't add on one single square foot but took all the closets out except for my clothes so I could have more baths...and took the master bedroom and put a wall down the middle so I could have two extra bedrooms...and used the small bedroom as my office and gro lights...

I wanted so badly to put a tub in like yours but my house is built on pier and beam...so no porcelain tubs here...here is the view from a hallway door to a guest bathroom...

Thumbnail by gessiegail
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:30 AM

Post #3930218

another view of small bathroom...that color is really a plum or purple ...looks like red but isn't

Thumbnail by gessiegail
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:31 AM

Post #3930227

behind the front of the tub is another toilet with a wall

Thumbnail by gessiegail
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:33 AM

Post #3930232

same bathroom looking into a guest bedroom...

Thumbnail by gessiegail
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:35 AM

Post #3930239

My half bath and dressing room...looking into my bedroom

Thumbnail by gessiegail
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:37 AM

Post #3930247

You can just see the edge of the trundle beds for grandchildren...they all sleep either with me in the same bed, on a pallet or the trundles...I don't sleep but they seem to sleep like little happy babes!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thumbnail by gessiegail
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:38 AM

Post #3930253

Here are the trundle beds that I ordered from a children's collection of furniture (LOL)

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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:41 AM

Post #3930264

a short view of another guest bedroom...

going to bed...nana is tired from the beach all day with the grands...they wore me out...swimming in the Gulf and playing touch football on the beach...

Thumbnail by gessiegail
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
2:43 AM

Post #3930273

I promise we will not hijack your thread...she just asks for a few more pics...than ks...and we love what you are doing with your job of redoing robin-joey...fun isn't it...and never ending...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
2:54 AM

Post #3930327

Gail, BEAUTIFUL!! And people think I know how to decorate! You make me want to finish this house and get it the way I want it! My husband says we need to add a closet for my clothes...lol. And my coats. And my shoes. ;D

You're right of course. I agree that tastes change as we age. My tastes aren't so much different than they were long ago when I was 24 and we built our first house. More that things are more readily available and my husband had a really good job that afforded me to buy what I wanted. We lived in my sisters house, before it was my sisters house. It was a house we rented while ours was being built. A big old 4 square that I always knew was really something, but being a renter who wasn't allowed to put nails in the wall to hang anything, I couldn't do anything but dream of what the house could be. I'm happy to report that the house is what I dreamed it could be after my sister bought it.

Any more pictures you want to share, I'm ready to see! Thank you Gail ;o)

Sweet dreams, kind woman...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
3:42 AM

Post #3930506

Hey guys!

Thanks so much for the input! I enjoy reading about your old houses and seeing pics. It's rather comical though in how FAR it is from my house, still with the cheap 1980's builder fixtures everywhere. ;-) lol!

Thanks for the idea of painting the back of the kitchen half wall the color of the cabs. I wasn't sure, but yes, that makes sense. I will have to paint the pantry in the hall just outside the kitchen entry also.


Terry, don't worry, I want the COUNTERS to be different in the kitchen and dining, but NOT the paint. That whole kitchen/dining/computer counter area is already sage green. I had second thoughts about redoing the whole thing in the Warm Buff, but I think I'll stay with it for now. The Warm Buff is in the adjoining LIVING ROOM. :-) I understand what you say about painting brick, but...have you looked at mine?! lol! It has black "grout", (or whatever that is called.) I like the idea of the black mantel. Hmmm... Although, the mantle wood looks nicer to me than the upper panel of wood. Maybe paint the upper panel and side shelves black and leave the actual MANTEL wood?? What do you guys think?

So can I count that as a definitive vote for the "cherry wood like" colored cabinets instead of cream colored cabinets??

My husband seems to prefer the idea of painting the recessed tray above the dining area. Should I sand and prime? I don't have any Kilz right now. Could I just sand and do two coats of white? What finish do you guys recommend?

THANKS SO MUCH!

PS Check out HGTV's Rate My Space, but be careful, I have found it to be addictive so far!! ;-D

Robin
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
3:44 AM

Post #3930510

Wooh! I can't wait to look over all those! (posted while I was typing!)

Thanks, ladies! Appreciate all of your ideas!!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
4:59 AM

Post #3930659

Have you posted a pic of your fireplace? I don't remember one but I didn't have time to go back through this entire long thread to doublecheck! If you're still thinking you might sell in the next few years, I would think twice about painting the brick. Personally I'm fine with the look of it (and in some cases I think it looks better) but I think I'm in the minority, there are lots of people who freak out about painted brick. And the people who like painted brick generally won't really be turned off by brick that's not painted, but the reverse is definitely not true, the people who don't like painted brick really, really don't like it (and it's not like they can remove it easily, so it's a bit hard to look past it). So there's really no upside (in a selling situation) to having painted brick, but there's definitely a downside.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
7:12 AM

Post #3930759

Ecrane, good thinking. You are probably right.

Here's a pic.

Hey, I posted my images to RATE YOUR SPACE! I finally cleaned up a few piles on the computer counter and got some images there, to give an idea of the panorama of the room. Post your thoughts if you like!!!!!!!

http://ratemyspace.hgtv.com/SNC/GroupSearch.aspx?pguid=6db6be3f-1720-4ba3-a081-999042c09b6b&username=robin_joey

THANK YOU!!

Robin ;-D

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
12:35 PM

Post #3931023

You are lucky...that is a really nice color of brick...most of the homes in the 60' had that light colored brick...
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
4:57 PM

Post #3931997

That is nice brick, I'd definitely leave it alone.
jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

September 3, 2007
5:21 PM

Post #3932082

One interesting comment I gleaned from Candice Olsen's Divine Design show is when she was working on revamping a relatively small, rectangular living room/dining room area. She said "dark colors don't make a room look smaller - it's HIGH CONTRAST that makes spaces look smaller."

It was an interesting point. You can use dark colors as long as you keep your surrounding colors in complementary shades, but you DO have to increase the lighting factor. Dark colors will absorb more light, and I believe that is what makes people feel the space is "smaller".

I personally wouldn't use the cherrywood paint effect in your kitchen, because it's just too small. I think it would look 'choppy' because of the glimpses you get into the kitchen from other rooms. It really isn't an open kitchen where the striking paint color can "anchor" a wide-open area.

Still, YMMV since it's hard to view any overall effect from just photos. Good luck on whatever you decide upon!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
6:21 PM

Post #3932314

Well, I'm more concerned with the overall turnout of painting a red-brown color. I'm afraid they would look like red cabinets on a green wall...but on the other hand, I'm worried that the cream may not look right either.

That makes sense about the high contrast comment. So I should go more monochromatic? I have also heard Candice say that she likes to keep the horizontal planes in the same tone, so with that logic, I would want the countertops and the flooring to match in tone. Soooo, perhaps cream cabinets with sandy beige counters and floors would be my best bet??
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
7:29 PM

Post #3932550

just remember that creams or beiges will either go in the family of pinks or yellows...so be sure you are not getting into the family of pink (I think)
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
7:52 PM

Post #3932648

Well, here is the color I was thinking of if I went with cream cabinets.

http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124425&lineid=830&cbn=2VVK-XYXM-CPN1
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
8:01 PM

Post #3932681

I think that is fine but I sure wish you could change that sage green...my daughter insisted on a sage green in her last bedroom...she hated it...it doesn't go with anything...can you show me the color going in the next room...so we can see what family of colors it is in>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
bbrookrd
Nantucket, MA
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
8:48 PM

Post #3932868

Robin, refinishing those cabinets with a red stain will be far more difficult to achieve a consistent color than to paint them. I would think about using a creamy green (darker or lighter than the wall color, but from the same family of green) to compliment the wall color, but to contrast with the beige counters and floors. I love green kitchen cabinets. I like the spray finish you did on the over head lights and would use pulls and knobs in the same color. Use a mixture of the two in the same finish such as pulls on the drawers and knobs on the cabinet doors or vice-versa. They will blend nicely with any of the stainless that you already have in the appliances and faucet. I would not replace the sink or faucet. I would consider taking out the narrow ledge above the sink and replacing it with a cherry wood half round counter to use as both the counter and table. You would need bar stools to sit at it, but you would then have a nice sized table as well as a large serving counter. I know from reading that you love the cherry wood. It could be a cheaper wood with a cherry finish. If it is sealed with a good poly finish it will handle the slops and spills. I have a very similar counter as you that is a sealed mahogany. Plus the cherry wood will look terrific with the sage green which I love. The space under this counter could be used for a big toy box on casters that could be pulled out for play time then pushed under the counter when it is dinner time. Or just the place for a pet bed. The floors will be easy once you have the wall, cabinet and counter color figured out. Good luck with your project. I am about to start a kitchen project renovation tomorrow for a new client. I hope she has your color sense. Patti
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
9:07 PM

Post #3932950

Now you have a professional to continue this project...let her help you...she loves sage green...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
9:15 PM

Post #3932995

Hey, thank you so much for the comments!

So much to consider!

Here is the color that is in our entryway and will be immediately outside the kitchen in the hall. Behr's "Toasted Cashew":
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124479&lineid=701&cbn=VPX4-Q80R-H871

And here is the darker tone that I am using on the living room walls, which includes the fireplace, tv and sliding glass doors, Valspar's "Warm Buff":
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124425&lineid=824&cbn=UDXQ-MAD6-7U65

bbrook: I like the idea of barstools very much, BUT...I feel like then it elminates the option of ever having a "formal" eating space, like Christmas dinner or a large gathering. At least as it is now, I could use my dinky little table and put a longer table on the end and cover with a long tablecloth at Christmas and Thanksgiving. I would love to somehow make the barstools fit in somewhere, but it already feels a bit cramped with just a medium sized table and a chair at the computer area. IDEAS? Thanks so much for the input!

Well, I'm headed off to Lowe's. I am going to look for a "cherry wood" like color, just to see what's available. I may do some work on the kitchen table and chairs so I can think some more about the cabinets. I also will likely paint the recessed tray above the light fixture.

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
11:01 PM

Post #3933379

My goodness! What happened to the brick red on the cabinets and Warm Buff on the walls for the kitchen?
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
11:11 PM

Post #3933412

some lady came along and said she hoped her new client would like sage green and have the taste in colors that Robin has...(LOL)...she is really not a decorator in terms of ASID anyway...she just decorates and likes sage green...but i see she hasn't come back to add to the conversation yet...I am with you!...but this is what makes the world go 'round...I just happen to have good friends who are or have been (retired) as ASID members and officers...(that is the only reason I know the value of ASID trained people)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 3, 2007
11:22 PM

Post #3933450

What's an ASID Gail? Yet another term I'm not familiar with...lol. Our bedroom is sage green and like your daughter...although my comforter, quilt and summer quilt all have green in them, and my curtains are deep not hunter green, but a deep green velvet, I'd rather of painted it something different. Our (cherry) bedroom set is huge and hard to move. I'm thinking my husband won't want to re-paint for a few more years. The good thing is that purple (I love purple) goes with the sage green very well and is in my quilt and my summer quilt and my comforter is a like a deep dusty purple.

Yup, this is what makes the world go 'round...LOL!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 3, 2007
11:24 PM

Post #3933458

No, I don't think the sage green is going anywhere. It's already up. I have had my doubts, but overall it's up and I'm keeping it. I can always change it however, someday. Plus, our couch is sage green so I feel it ties the two room together. Warm buff is the LIVING ROOM color.

So, Terry, you really liked the Brick Red for the cabinets even WITH the green on the walls? Because the green is staying. :)

THANKS, LADIES!
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
11:51 PM

Post #3933594

Well, I don't know if this is worth anything...but when my daughter couldn't change the color of her sage green bedroom...she used a Ralph Lauren comforter with lots of greens in it that also had a bright red (a lot of it) in the comforter...and it looked good...
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 3, 2007
11:55 PM

Post #3933605

don't ever let someone help you unless they are free or they belong to the ASID

http://webdev.asid.org/design_basics/professional_organizations/interior_design_org.asp
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
12:02 AM

Post #3933639

No Robin, I wouldn't do Brick Red with Sage Green walls. I thought you wanted your kitchen to look like the one above that has the brick red cabinets and the beige brown colored walls...where you said this above

Quoting:I am starting to rethink the cream cabinets. I found THIS PICTURE on HGTV's Rate My Space and in reading the comments, learned that these are PAINTED CABINETS. I have NO IDEA if I could find the shade that would pull this off, but I think it might go over better in our kitchen than cream.


The green could stay in the dining area. Only paint the wall that they share in the beige brown color. That would give them the separate identities you're seeking. And I don't think the red on the back of that lower cabinet in the dining area would made much difference. For that matter, to tie them in, you could paint the legs on your table in the same brick red. Just my humble opinion of course...;D
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
12:12 AM

Post #3933675

Robin...are we wearing you down on the sage green issue...poor thing...I agree with Terry...it wouldn't take you more than a couple of hours to put another color on...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
12:20 AM

Post #3933712

Oh, maybe that's the problem. The walls in the pic with the painted cabinets are SAGE GREEN. lol!

Here's the link with more pics and some info from the homeowner.

http://ratemyspace.hgtv.com/SNC/ViewItem.aspx?pguid=6db6be3f-1720-4ba3-a081-999042c09b6b&itemguid=9b07f70c-34f0-44b4-a8b0-9d53ea27ab91

SO PRETTY! But...I'm unsure about it for my room. Ecrane advised against the red too, (not just brooke). I personally am about as confused as can be about what to do on the cabs, but I do like the green on the walls where it is!

Have you checked out the comments I've received on the HGTV site? A lot of talk about removing the popcorn ceiling, which I've never thought about and hubby doesn't want me to mess with. Sigh... lol!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
12:30 AM

Post #3933757

Robin, I see where ecrane said she wouldn't paint the brick, but not where she said she wouldn't paint the cabinets in red? Brooke also suggested not to try and stain them red, but to paint them instead, which is what we were talking about anyway.

The picture in this post http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/p.php?pid=3928435 are sage green? I'll go check out the link after I get my shower! Worked at my parents in the yard all day and I haven't gotten in the shower yet...
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
12:33 AM

Post #3933767

gessie--how do you know that bbrookrd isn't a designer? Even if she's not, most of us on here aren't real designers so I wouldn't discount someone's comments just because they're not, we're all just here sharing opinions and we don't always agree with each other, but that's OK, this thread wouldn't be nearly as long and interesting if everyone all had the same taste!

I actually don't remember saying I didn't like the red cabinets...although reddish cabinets plus sage green walls wouldn't work for me personally, too Christmasy! But if you did the walls a different color I don't know if I'd have anything against reddish cabinets.

On the popcorn ceilings...I don't know how it is in OK, but here in CA everyone hates popcorn ceilings with a passion and wants to get rid of them. I have them in my house and it's definitely on the list of things to get rid of! Be careful though about taking it on as a DIY project--if your house was built before about 1975-1980 it's possible the popcorn has asbestos in it, no danger to you as long as you leave it alone, but if you start to scrape it off, then it'll get dust in the air and that's very bad. Definitely a job for the pros if it has asbestos.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
1:09 AM

Post #3933939

That picture you posted of the green in that kitchen is not sage green...that is a wonderful green...sage green is washed out and that color is beautiful...if you have that color, good for you!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sage green has blue in it to me...and that green has yellow in it and is great looking...

I was just being ugly, ecrane and I dmailed her and told her she had great ideas until she put that last jab in at the end...about "I hope my new client will have color sense like you" or something like that...I thought it was unnecessary...but was tacky of me also!!!!!!!!!! sorry guys...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
1:24 AM

Post #3934034

Well, it made me feel good to hear someone say I had great color sense!!! :-D

Ok, I posted a reply and my 16-month old pushed the power off on the computer! ARGH!

Yes, ecrane, I'm so sorry, it was bbrooke who said something about the red being difficult to pull off, not you. SORRY! :-) I appreciate your input and yes, popcorn has a bad rep here in the Midwest too, but for some reason, it's still extremely prevalent!!

So, here is a pic with the colors I'm definitely using on the bottom, and the potential colors on the top.

SO...(remember I'm a former teacher!) A SHOW OF HANDS PLEASE!

The sage green is staying in the kitchen/dining/computer area.

The warm beiges are in the living room/entryway.

WHICH CABINET COLOR DO YOU PREFER?

THE REDDISH BROWN

or the

CREAM? :-D


PS I know there have gotta be some people out there following along who need to vote even though they haven't posted anything yet! ;-D

Thanks, everyone!!

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
1:29 AM

Post #3934070

Closer Robin, closer!! I can't seeeeee!!!!!
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
1:29 AM

Post #3934071

You are toooooooooooo funny,...that is the first good look I have seen of your color and it looks good...I had a totally different image in my mind...I am not voting (LOL)
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
1:34 AM

Post #3934097

LOOK HERE GESSIE!

http://ratemyspace.hgtv.com/SNC/ViewItem.aspx?pguid=6db6be3f-1720-4ba3-a081-999042c09b6b&itemguid=378da57b-2482-4291-860a-56835a268fef

:-)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
1:34 AM

Post #3934098

I'd vote for the cream, just because it's a small space and I think it'll look bigger and brighter with cream rather than red. But from a color standpoint I think either of them could work, the sage green on your walls isn't as green as I was picturing when I made the comment about green + red being too Christmasy. If you like the red, throw it in as an accent color on some towels, cookie jars, or something else that you leave out on the counters, I think that would look nice.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
1:43 AM

Post #3934154

I'd go with the red because I live with people who don't wash their hands before they open a cupboard or a drawer. Cream will show everything. And because I like red! I would do the lighter counter tops to bring in the cream.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
1:52 AM

Post #3934209

I have to vote...as I always have an opinion...dark colors are just plain hard to keep when painted on old wood...I even tried navy blue one time and ended up having to replace the cabinets as they do chip, I promise you...I vote cream on the cabinets...only because you are not getting to paint first time wood...and the dark color is going to make you feel hemmed in...it already is a small kitchen...keep it light and airy...and I love the idea of brick red as an accent color in pics and washcloths and towels...maybe even a good stripe kitchen towels...(with dark red in the stripe)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
2:08 AM

Post #3934276

I gottsa disagree again Gail ;( A friend of a friend has cranberry cabinets, with polycrylic over and they look as good today as when my girlfriend painted them 10 yrs ago! nanner nanner...LOL!
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
2:48 AM

Post #3934457

I am laughing so hard...when my oldest child was 3 years old and was really mad at me...the meanest thing she could say to me was "Nanny nanny boo boo , stick your head in dog doo"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! still laffin' thinking about it...

I don't care what color she paints her cabinets...this is too funny...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
3:01 AM

Post #3934508

I found a better dark red (not so shocking.)

Here's a new pic. (it's the top one.)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
3:04 AM

Post #3934527

I'm glad I could make you laugh! Things getting too serious in here nanny nanny boo boo...lol.

I would however, like to have Robin to go back to the link she's provided us with to the red kitchen with sage walls and look at the before pictures. The before pictures show...??? Cream colored cabinets. So my question, oh dear Robin, is do you like the look of her before picture? Or her after picture? The before pictures are too blah.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
3:08 AM

Post #3934543

Had to get my magnifying glass out to see the name of the color...Spiceberry! Yum yum!!...;)...love it! And love the color...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
1:15 PM

Post #3935436

Terry, I did what you suggested and peeked again at her before pics. You are very right there - extremely blah. I know she changed other things, like lighting, added stainless steel,etc., but it is QUITE a transformation.

I am still torn. lol!

My projects I am tackling right now are painting the recessed alcove around the light fixture. There were so many suggestions about removing the popcorn ceiling that I might do that too. I spoke with my husband about it and he about had a fit, saying that's only the kind of thing you do when you move in or out of a home. He hates mess, but he won't be the one doing it now will he?! lol! To see how it went, we agreed I would first try removing the popcorn in our master bathroom ceiling, b/c it's already messed up. It was messy but came off easily. He seems more on board now because it will look so much better! So should I go with white on the wood parts of the recessed alcove no matter what I do with the cabinets or do I have to decide first! Ack! What sheen do you recommend? Someone on the HGTV site recommended using the wall color within the tray, around the trim. What do you think of that idea?

I also want to paint our dining table and chairs. Change out the white to black or a black/green. Maybe stain the wood more of a light cherry. We might also move the shelving above the computer area into my son's room. I would like to buy some cabinets to match the lower computer cabs and finish what we planned originally, but we don't have the money right now for that. I can afford a gallon of paint here and there, but not a whole wall of cabinets. I need to start ebaying! lol!

While I was at HD last night looking at paint colors, I drooled over the Silestone a bit. Husband is saying no way are we replacing countertops, but I'll wear him down. I am also considering tile. Both are different enough from the dining room that it doesn't look like two formicas, in different colors. I AM thinking that maybe at least doing the UPPER portion of the bar in the green/black formica might add some cohesion, then a coordinating lower part in tile or a "sand-like" Silestone. That might look weird though.

Here's a pic of CAPRI LIMESTONE with the cream cabinet color:

THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUT! Keep it comin'! This is far from over! (May have to start a new thread though!) ;-D
Robin

This message was edited Sep 4, 2007 8:16 AM

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
1:18 PM

Post #3935443

and now the Spiceberry with the CAPRI LIMESTONE! Oooh, it's so smooth and pretty!

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
1:18 PM

Post #3935444

Robin, I hope you know that we are just having fun and trying to help at the same time...BBrooke and I dmailed one another...she thought I was attacking you and that is why she wanted to make her point known.

If you feel for a moment that this isn't fun, please so say...I don't intend to be mean to you...(and then the funny part)...you know how I love yellows, purples, reds, apricots, greens...she told me in the dmail what horrible taste I had if I like purples (LOL)...we don't mean to impose anything on you...just more ideas to think about...
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
1:21 PM

Post #3935455

I would get excited over your new find!!!!!!!!!!!!!! great...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
1:22 PM

Post #3935461

I love all the ideas, keep em coming. :-D

I know what I like, but I can never seem to decide what I like the BEST overall. lol!

PS I'm glad to know that I do have a nice green. ;-)

Here is a pic of IVORY COAST Silestone with the cream cab color.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
1:59 PM

Post #3935589

That, I think, is a nice subtle kitchen...and , because it is a small kitchen, I think it will open it up in feeling for you...I was wrong all along thinking that the green you had selected was not the color that it really is...I vote yes on this...(not that I know anything (LOL)...just an opinion)
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
2:17 PM

Post #3935637

Thanks, Gail. Yes on what? Cream cabs? Red brown cabs? :-)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
2:28 PM

Post #3935681

Red brown cabs...and I have no taste...sigh...because I love purple! Gail, how does loving and using purple equate to no taste anyway? ;D I want to say again, that a dark color does not close in the room, except for in ones head or if the lighting is very poor. Lighting is an easy fix though.

I love Spiceberry with the Capri limestone. I also like the wall color in the tray area, but with the wood, I'm not too sure if that would look good. The sheen on the wood in the ceiling should be flat. I think anyway and that's my opinion anyway...LOL!!

Now ladies, my mom is taking my daughter and I shopping. I'll be back later. Don't go making any huge decisions until I get back!!! hehehehehe
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
2:34 PM

Post #3935707

terry...don't worry...this is going to be a 300 posts thread by the time Robin finishes...

I truly think that either the Spiceberry or the cream will be great...I love the Spiceberry but ...back to selling the house...Spiceberry might be on someone's hate list...and think it shouldn't be on the color wheel (LOL)...probably i would use Spiceberry but cream is a much safer bet for resell...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
2:38 PM

Post #3935725

I agree. That's what I was thinking.

Ok, so now which one to choose. lol!

Maybe I'll send to all my girlfriends who know my taste and my home a little better. Most of them have better taste in clothing, etc. than I do. lol!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
3:31 PM

Post #3935936

For me the biggest thing on choosing the cabinet color is the size of your kitchen. If you had a large kitchen (like the person on Rate My Space does), then I think the red cabinets would look great. Since her kitchen is so large, it looks great with the dark cabinets and looked more boring with the lighter ones. But since your kitchen is smaller, that's why I'm thinking the cream would be better--a paler blander look like the cream in a small kitchen isn't nearly as boring as it would be in a large kitchen, plus if you add some red accents to spice it up, I think it'll look really nice.

What I would do is take a look at your kitchen overall right now--I know you don't like the wood, but consider the overall level of darkness/brightness in your kitchen now. The red cabinets are probably going to be a little darker than the wood you have now, so if you feel that the kitchen is too dark now, then the cream is probably a better choice. Or if you think it's not too dark now, then you'd probably be happy with the red as well.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 4, 2007
3:58 PM

Post #3936043

safer for resale ... lightens the area, which btw, WAS the original intent ...

I can make this kitchen look French Rustic, with a splash of contemporary, don't you think?! ;-D I can always do OTHER pieces in the red, like the pantry in the hall, or maybe play with some crown molding/trim, something!

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 4, 2007
7:33 PM

Post #3936716

I agree with ecrane...find your reds in towels,photos framed, etc...not on the molding...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 4, 2007
11:52 PM

Post #3937582

Didn't somebody up there talk about walking into houses with white or cream cabinets and turning around and walking out? I don't know Robin. I've never decorated a house for resale. I've always decorated the house for myself and I've never had a problem with selling a home. That goes for the navy 8x9 bedroom, the lavender with plum ceilings in the 6x12 bathroom, the 2 toned gold in the 2nd bedroom, the 1 wall in the kitchen done in a blue color I created myself...or in TN, the red on the walls in the kitchen, the blue and beige in the dining room, again the lavender and plum in the master bath, the hall bath done in a pink that looked like cotton candy with a darker pink ceiling and a 3' square darker pink painted on the wall, the tiny tiny bedroom painted in Bronzetone...the gold in the staircase and in the basement, the blue garage...and on it goes. I know for a fact that the rooms are all the same color in house #1 that I painted them, and the people who bought it from us just resold it. I've never had to repaint a room, ever. BUT, that's my taste and not everybody else's...and it only takes one person to buy a house. And I guess I got fortunate in selling, because the average DOM and the DOM that we had were very short. First house sold in 2 months, second house sold in 1 month. Does it show that I don't do what other people think is the correct thing? lol...and that I don't care??? LOL!! It's not my house Robin and my tastes might not be yours. I just will keep repeating it until people understand, a dark color does make a room dark. The lighting does.

BUT, you decorate it in the way you want, not what I or anybody else wants. You have to live there, you have to sell it. Anything is going to be an improvement over what is there now ;D

jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

September 5, 2007
7:32 PM

Post #3940769

Well, you can never decorate to please 100% of the people. But if you are thinking of resale you would want to appeal to as many people as possible. Although I think both dark reds are handsome, I wouldn't want my cabs painted those colors. Certain granites strike me the same way - I don't like a lot of movement, but many people do. If we bought a house with that type of granite counters, the first thing I'd do is rip it out, no matter how much the OH paid for it.

I very much like the Ivory Coast Silestone with the cream (cabs) and sage green (walls). Very nice, and would appeal to the widest range of buyers by looking coordinated, yet neutral enough to be easily personalized.

However, solid surface is higher in cost than granite in some area. Particularly Silestone, which is sold in 3cm thicknesses instead of the 2cm everyone else uses. By the time you add the backsplash and edge, solid surface can be very expensive. I just can't see why the OP would put so much $$ into a place they intend to resell in a few years. It simply won't pay off. You do not get "extra" money for putting in what is BETTER than the average. The most cost-effective improvement projects are the moderate- and low-cost upgrades. I am sure laminate, or DIY tile or granite tile, will reward the seller at resale time. I'm not at all so sure about solid surface.

Mind you, I have solid surface (Swanstone) in my starter home, installed in 2003. But starter homes here average $500K for 2 bd 1 ba cottages. Only within the last 3 yrs have granite counters and stainless appliances made an appearance in our neighborhood, and even then only a small percentage of homes have them. Everybody wants them, yes, but most everyday people around here have yet to spend $75K remodeling their homes to put them in.

Most are like my neighbor, who puts up with grungy tile counters, splitting chintzy cabs, old appliances - but she's thrilled because her DH finally gave her a new porcelain tiled floor after 18 yrs to replace the damaged original linoleum.

It's easy to get enthusiastic and think of tons of projects to work on. The problem is that many homeowners do this, then run out of energy and leave things half-finished. Then when they do have to sell, it's a race against time to get the undone stuff completed.

As my successful RE agent told me, "the buyer's eye goes to the cheapest thing in the room. And then they price the house from THAT POINT."

I have to admit I think doing anything more than being in the "slightly nicer" range of the average house in the homeowner's neighborhood is overkill, particularly in the OP's RE market. I say this even though my DH and I own one of the most overimproved 2bd homes in the entire neighborhood. We have gotten enormous enjoyment over the improvements we've done, but we've been here for almost twenty years and plan to be here for at least 5-10 more. So we've amortized the cost to our satisfaction.

But if I had bought this house and planned to sell it within 5 yrs, I would have done only the most minimal improvements to it. Particularly in a slowing RE market, it is dicey to figure on much profit if selling within 5 yrs, so all the more reason to put as little money and time as possible into it.
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 5, 2007
10:08 PM

Post #3941395

I just have to get involved! You are all having so much fun - I want to play!
What kind of feeling do you want when you walk into your kitchen? Lighthearted cookie baking or more dramatic - roasts with cabarnet.
Either way, for resale, as long as it's done nicely I don't think you need to worry so much. You seemed to want to lighten up so that's what I think you should start with. If you don't like it, it's easier to go dark than it is to go the other way around.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 5, 2007
11:12 PM

Post #3941583

Hey, thanks so much for the input, Jkom!

Actually, the fact that this might be a low cost upgrade is one of the reasons I keep leaning towards the red. *IF* I don't replace anything else besides paint, etc., then I will have cream counters and black and white appliances, so with cream cabinets, that seems REALLY drab to me. I am kind of thinking that I should go with cream cabinets ONLY if I can pull off some other upgrades, but I don't know.

Here is a before/after pic that I found last night from Designed to Sell:
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/ah_real_estate_selling/article/0,1801,HGTV_3165_5047470_03,00.html

I see lots of rooms that need to be redone that have perfectly clean and simple cabinets, but they just look dated and blah. I also see cream cabinets in BEAUTIFUL high end kitchens, but I'm worried I won't be able to pull off that kind of "sparkle!" So, if this project ends up being really about paint, vinyl flooring and light fixtures, and I stick with the off-white solid countertops and black & black & white appliances, I think red brown might be the way to go. Maybe I could do some kind of glazing trick to increase the "cherry wood" look as opposed to red painted cabinets, which I really don't want.

OK, gotta go list some more on ebay to fund this project!

Thanks so much, everyone! REALLY!

OH! One more thing, I can't remember if/when my DG subscription runs out, but IF it does, here is my email in case you wanna keep in touch and I drop off the face of the planet. ;-) Or try my HGTV page.

robin_joey@hotmail.com

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 5, 2007
11:20 PM

Post #3941608

Hey Digatunnel,

Thanks for joining in! I KNEW there had to be more lurkers out there! (makes it sound kinda funny, doesn't it?!

Sorry my last post was crazy and redundant -- I'm hyped up on coffee and wrote half before I picked up my daughter from school and half after. lol

I did stop by my Home Depot to get some small cans of the Spiceberry and Tawny Port. I was standing RIGHT THERE in front of some emp. and waited/waited. (with 2 kids in the cart, trying to keep them seated with stickers and sippy cups). Finally, I turned around and asked if they would call someone. So the guy moseys up and informs me that Behr only makes quarts, no half pints like Valspar. Sigh...to Lowe's we go. It's so nice at Lowe's b/c they have a button and I don't know if this is a coincidence or what, but mine has lots of friendly women. Hmm...Anyway, I got samples of Spiceberry, Tawny Port and Latte. Should I paint pieces of cardboard or the actual cabinet? Husband leaves town Friday morning so I'd like to get it up soon so I can get his reaction.

MORE LATER!

GOTTA RUN!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 5, 2007
11:50 PM

Post #3941690

And if I walked in and saw painted cabinets in a color I didn't like, it's an easy fix. For me, it's an easy fix. I'm finding more and more people can't see beyond what's in front of their faces. I'm not saying that as a put down to anyone, so please, no flaming. As to where should you paint it...I'd be more inclined to find a piece of scrap wood compared to cardboard. It's your call though Robin. Just please remember if you're using one of those sheets that-I-can't-remember-what-you-call-them, but you buy them in the section at Wal-Mart that has crayons, colored pencils and the like. Anyway, if you're using the ones that are white, remember it's going to take more than 1 coat of Spiceberry to get the true color. If you do use the Spiceberry, tint your primer to a dark gray for the easiest painting. I've read people do 2 then 3 then 4 then 5 coats of paint to get their red to look right. It took me 2 coats of Hot Apple Spice over dark gray primer. I also want to say that because you talk about money being an issue, it's going to be important that you select the right color to begin with. Are you going to have the money for more gallons of paint if you go with Latte and then you decide no, the Spiceberry or some other color would look better?
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 6, 2007
12:21 AM

Post #3941795

Thanks for such a warm welcome! I'm trying to do my kitchen also and have a terrible time picking out colors. I have a medicine cabinet with six little wood shelves that I primered and painted all the different color samples I picked up at Lowes. I figured that for some reason I liked these colors so I painted them on something that I can continue to look at as time goes by. I can take them down and carry them around the house for other projects. Good thing too, I almost painted my kitchen lavendar! I told my DH that it would have worked out fine. I would just put a sign above the stove saying "Welcome to Jumbo's Clown Room!"
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 6, 2007
1:08 AM

Post #3941999

I did paint my MIL's kitchen lavender. Lavender on 3/4's of the walls, then the rest of the wall white up to the ceiling and the ceiling. I had to strip about 16 layers of paint off the cabinets. Cabinet doors are white and the bases are a deeper purple color. I like it, she loves it, everybody that comes in likes in. So I wouldn't discount a lavender kitchen. She has a stainless steel sink that my BIL insisted that she have and she hates it. Says it doesn't hold the warm water. Her appliances are white. I also stripped as many layers of paint off a Hoosier cabinet. That piece I stained and polyed and it sits in the kitchen as well. She bought counter tops, lighter, almost a white with flecks in it, that she also hates, BIL told her he thought it would look best. I also used a thin chair rail (that I stained and polyed) to sit on top of the fake tile stuff on that bottom 3/4's of her kitchen walls. She likes lace, so I bought lacy white curtains. We also bought and installed, a white ceiling fan in there. She has a lot of copper molds, old ones, that I hung on the soffit in there. It's a nice kitchen. The nicest room in the house actually. I love color, so the shelves you painted in the various colors probably looks pretty good!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
3:41 AM

Post #3942623

Jkom/others:

Any idea what it might cost to do Silestone in my kitchen? Of course, I know granite is infamously costly. I know I COULD go with formica, but, and I know it's a little thing, we used that on the computer counter and I don't want two formicas in diff. prints. I may have to just give in, but that's my thinking right now. (Still not wanting it for the kitchen counters, but I've toyed with the idea of doing the upper bar in the green/black fleck formica for cohesion, then tiling or something on the lower and backsplash in the kitchen. ??)

I know I like that Silestone has the Microban. I love LG/HiMac, but it just doesn't have the nice smooth FEEL that Silestone does. I love the integrated sink idea though. I saw that they have had promos where the sink is free, but that and other promotions are always with 25 (!) square feet.

Ok, back to my original question. My upper bar counter is 8'. My lower kitchen counter is, naturally 8' as well, but how is it figured with part of it being sink? The wall with the stove/fridge has two little strips 11.5" wide and 25" deep. It also creeps up the wall as backsplash and over the area with the light switch, but if I were seriously installing new stuff, that would naturally be torn out and replaced with tile or something.

So, math is not my strong point and I've never calculated something like this. How many square feet will I need? Can anyone help me with this?

I did ask prices a while back when I was drooling over the Silestone and she gave me these figures for the different grades:
A) 41
B) 47
C) 51
D) 55

IS THAT PER SQUARE FOOT?! Ivory Coast is D and Capri Limestone is C. Coral Troya (not bad, but basically orange), is A. Kalahari is a decent one I did not photograph, but I see that it is B.

Anyone able to help me? I know I'm a nimrod when it comes to this kind of stuff. lol!

Oh, here's the shocker of the day: My husband says he'd go with the red! (Tawny Port)!

I've got the cardboard up. Can't wait to live with them for a few days and see if one edges the other one out!

Oh, I wanted to say something about buying and selling. I have noticed an overriding philosophy that seems to prevail when deciding on a home. I often hear people at the end of House Hunters say, "It was basically move in ready." That REALLY appeals to people, I think. There aren't projects for your to do list everywhere you look. Someone else has done the work designing the space, you just have to move in your stuff, where it'll look great! You know? People see dated cabinets and ugly carpet and are immediately turned off. Now, I'm not saying this in defense of either of my colors, because I think it all depends on how the overall look ends up. If it looks GOOD, I don't think it matters that it's old cabinets painted red or cream. You know? Terry, you seem to have experienced this where people have taken to the colors you've chosen and happily bought the house and left it up? I can't IMAGINE someone ripping out Silestone in this house because, believe me, I've seen neighbors leave MUCH WORSE. lol! But, I also cannot really imagine me being able to truly afford it. Maybe Christmas?!

Ok, better go ebay some more!

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
3:53 AM

Post #3942653

Those prices are most likely per square foot, that matches up with prices that I've seen when I was counter shopping. Sometimes counters are priced by the lineal foot too, which is a fancy way of saying forget the width of the countertops and just measure the length. Most counters are 2 ft wide, so a price per lineal foot would typically be about twice what the price per square foot is. Most places that I've shopped at recently price things by the square foot though, and that's what your prices look like to me.

The way to measure how many square feet you have is take a tape measure, and for each rectangular section of your counter, measure the width and the length. Multiply those two numbers together, and that's how many square feet are in that section (for example, if one area of the counter is 2 feet wide by 10 feet long, that would be 200 square feet). Repeat the process for each section of countertop (if your counter is L or U shaped, make sure you're not double-counting the part that goes around a corner--pick one rectangular area to count it in). Also make sure to measure your backsplash--same way, measure the length and the width and multiply together. Then add all the sections together, and that's your total. Make sure you do all your measurements in feet rather than inches, otherwise you'll have to convert square inches to square feet at the end, and that's more math!

If I were you, given that you're trying to do this on a budget, I would give some serious consideration to laminate countertops--Wilsonart has a new one that I've been seeing advertised that looks as much like granite as a laminate countertop can, and could look very nice. Formica has some newer nice looking ones too, and it'll be considerably cheaper than Silestone. Or else consider doing granite tiles and installing them yourself--you'll pay anywhere between ~$3 and $20 a square foot depending on what granite you choose and where you get it from (most likely you'll end up paying $8-10), but I think you can see what a huge difference that is compared to the Silestone.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
4:24 AM

Post #3942740

Ecrane, YOU ROCK! Ok, that's what I thought, but wasn't sure about the cut outs for sinks, edges, backsplashes, etc.

I went to a kitchen showroom that advertised granite tiles. I have a question about that. I am totally willing to do the research and the work on that all myself, but I don't understand what the options are as far as the counter's edge. The guy explained I would need to select a WOOD TRIM EDGE, which I would hate the look AND functionality of. That can't be the only option. Maybe he was saying that was the *cheapest* option. Hmm...can't remember now.

When we (briefly) looked at granite, we picked up a sample and brought it home. It is like an inch thick! How would THAT work if I chose to do our counters in granite? (Not that I think that's likely, I'm just trying to understand how the edging and height issues work when going from laminate to granite.)

Ok, final question/thought...
I am SURE that someone out there knows how to make a paint/stain mixture that goes on like thin paint. Perhaps this is what I would need if I chose to go with the red? Maybe a teensy bit of the wood grain could show through and from a distance it would look like cherry wood?

Thinking, thinking...

PS I can't really remember, did anyone like the banquette idea??
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
4:36 AM

Post #3942773

Oh, I forgot, Digatunnel, you asked about the mood I was hoping to evoke? I would bet that the cookie baking relates more to the cream for you and the cabernet, the red? ;-D

Well, as far as my style, I would LIKE to have something like a mix between Pottery Barn and Crate and Barrel. The worst for me is seriously modern or seriously country. I think I like a little bit of a contemporary feel, but still warm and a great place for kids/family/friends. It is TRULY a one-person kitchen. It's practically a rule between my husband and I and I always shoo the kids out and tell them I'll bring their plates to them. It's just impossible with the dishwasher door coming out blocking the entire path. The fridge or freezer door knocking a little one in the head, the cabinet where the trash is as well as the oven open right in the very middle and half the time I'm headed out to the hall or the garage for a roasting pan/crockpot/platter, etc.

I honestly don't cook that much! lol! I'd like to say this is the reason why, but... ;-)

I don't want to overspend and not get my money back, but I do want to make this house appealing to offset it's not so great qualities and be competitive. I am pretty confident that right now we could sell for 20k over what we paid, and I'm happy with that. If I spend a couple hundred on paint and supplies and maybe a little more on a nice upgrade like counters or floors or appliances (but probably not all 3!), I would think that that would really help boost the price of our home and help it sell quickly. But I am a real estate novice, so I could be all wrong. :-)

I appreciate so much everyone's input! Stay with me! It's just beginning really! lol!

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
4:46 AM

Post #3942784

For the edging, you can do wood trim if you want, or you can buy granite tiles that have had their edges rounded & polished (bullnosed) to give you a smoother effect. The tiles with the rounded polished edges tend to be about twice the price of the ones with the regular rough edges though. It's possible that the guy who told you that you'd have to do wood trim doesn't sell the bullnosed tiles though, in which case the wood trim might be the only option if you buy the tiles from him. I don't know if the wood trim would be bad though, I've seen kitchens with granite tile and wood edging, and it looks very nice. I think the key is make sure you use really good glue to attach it, and finish it with some super duper outdoor grade varnish to make sure it stands up to moisture, and be prepared to refinish it occasionally (that was going to be my plan when I was thinking of doing granite tiles myself)

As far as the height of the granite slab--some granite needs to have plywood underneath it, in which case the overall height of your counter will be a little higher than it is now (honestly I don't notice the difference on mine at all). But some granite is thick enough and if your cabinets are sturdy enough they can just put the slab directly on the top of the cabinets, so if they do that then the height would be pretty much the same as your laminate (since the laminate is on top of plywood or something, and all that would be removed). The other thing to keep in mind with granite slabs is that you may end up having to buy more square feet of granite than your actual counterop measurements--what happens at least at the place I got my slab from is you have to buy it by the slab, but there'll be excess material on the slab that doesn't end up getting used. For my kitchen which I think has a similar amount of countertop area, I ended up having to buy 2 slabs. Versus with Silestone, since it doesn't come in a slab you only pay for the amount of square feet that you need (although you probably do have to pay for the material that'll get cut out to make the sink, since that's "lost" material for them that they can't use for anything else)

On the banquette...I can't remember what other people said, but my thought would be that if you're going for a more contemporary look, I wouldn't do it. Banquettes are a little older & more country-ish--not necessarily a bad thing if that's the look you're going for, but for a more contemporary feel I don't think it'll really go.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
1:54 PM

Post #3943422

I have been saying from the beginning to use formica...it is refreshing and clean looking...

When I sell a house and my adult kids do this, too...you hire someone for a minimal fee to come in your house and start taking half away to a storage unit...when a house is on the market, you don't want people standing and looking at 7 pictures on a table...take 5 away...and everything else in 'stuff' that you like ...you just want people to be looking at the house...not what you own...in the way of decorative things...

Another new thing happening in Texas is that owners go out and buy a high definition TV and tell the realtor that it stay with the house...buyers will pay for that high definition TV because it goes into a long term mortgage...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
2:06 PM

Post #3943493

I would like to create a built in that mirrors the shape and height of the fireplace in our corner where the tv is. In looking at neighbor's homes with the same floor plan, I've seen that they sometimes have the tv against the large wall to the right of the fireplace, where our couch is. This means you see the tv first thing when you walk in and you cannot see it from the kitchen. I would like to get a nice tv and utilize that corner better.

Man, I've been watching too much Designer's Challenge. lol I would be SOOO dangerous if I had money in the bank! lol!

I have had Wilsonart HD suggested to me more than once. I would consider it. I like it. I don't love it though. I would like it better in our bathrooms, I think. I am too hung up on trying to coordinate with our computer counter, I guess. Also, do you think it will be a trendy product that goes out of style in the next 5-10 years? That wouldn't be good.

Next time I'm at Lowe's, I'll ask about the pricing of the LG-HiMac. One thing I would like about going that route would be a NEW SINK! I also think one of those integrated sink would be a very striking feature that even someone who is TOTALLY not into decorating or trends would walk in and notice right away and say, "that's cool." Plus the one I have now constantly has mystery gunk underneath the rim. So rimless sounds VERY attractive to me.

:-D Thanks, everyone!
Robin

PS I posted pics of the two colors over in the Painting forum!!!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 6, 2007
2:08 PM

Post #3943499

I can't remember the maker of my counter top in this house, but it's a faux granite. I love it. Like I said before, granite is just not going to be a selling feature for this house, if we ever did sell. You could experiment with the paint, by adding water if it's latex paint. I did some old doors at a rental house my parents owned. I stripped the doors, but couldn't get the paint out of the wood, so I mixed 3 parts paint to 1 part water. The more water you add, the more grain you get showing, but you have to remember that yours are already stained and you aren't talking about stripping them down to bare wood...which I don't think I'd do. I did strip my MIL's, but hers are the old solid wood kind that were built on site and installed back in the mid 40's.

Robin, I love Pottery Barn too. All my curtains/drapes are from them. When I went to visit the people in our old house up here, she told me I had the curtains down when they looked, but they were in the photos, but she didn't know where I had purchased them from. The house in TN, those people had it in the contract that they wanted all the curtains/drapery and drapery rods. I don't think so...lol. And no, I took them all. I'm not giving somebody Dupioni silk drapes or wool or linen or velvet or or or...You can also find look alikes at your nearby Target for some pieces.

When I priced counter tops a few years ago, they were sold in the lineal foot. I don't know if region depends on how they sell it or not.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
2:24 PM

Post #3943570

Formica has been around for many many years and will continue to stay around...lots of people actually prefer it to granite and other surfaces...i have always used tile as that is just what I like...
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
2:31 PM

Post #3943585

I think how countertops are sold might have changed with the times--I remember 3-4 yrs ago when I was considering new counters for my old house (also in CA) a lot of places were selling counters by the lineal foot, but a few months ago when I got my counter for my new house, everywhere I went was selling by the square foot. Or maybe some places still sell it by the lineal foot, but the prices Robin's listing look similar to prices that I saw on solid surface that I know were square foot prices--I was looking at a brand that I know was a little more expensive than Silestone, and the prices were in the $60/sq ft ballpark

Robin--I don't know exactly what LG Hi-Mac is, but I think it's some sort of solid surface? If so, it'll be in the same ballpark as the Silestone, maybe a little cheaper but not anywhere close to the range of Formica/Wilsonart. I'd go measure your countertops, once you know how many square feet of counter you have then you can do the math based on the prices for even the cheapest grade of Silestone and decide whether that's an amount you think you can live with. Given the price range of homes in your neighborhood, anything that costs more than Formica/Wilsonart is not going to pay you back when you sell the house. There's nothing wrong with doing solid surface or a granite slab if you really like it and are doing it for you, but you need to be OK with the fact that you're not going to make that money back when you sell.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
2:50 PM

Post #3943636

Gessie,
I know FORMICA is not going anywhere, but I mean the special textured Wilsonart HD. Some of the samples I've seen, when you get up close, they look like a pixely photo.

Here was the math I came up with (I knew how to do length times width, and am keeping it pretty much at that. I'm not adding in backsplash.)

All the promos are for min. 25 square feet and I think (padded) that's what mine would be.

And I calculated how much the Silestone would cost for the different grades:
A) $41 = $1025
B) $47 = $1175
C) $51 = $1275

I'm not even going any higher. lol! My husband would have a coronary! lol! He is SUCH a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy. He has NO IDEA why I would want to replace the countertops, etc. Pretty much anything more involved than paint and light fixtures and he is not on board. C'est la vie! He says I can do what I want regardless!

More later!
Here's an LG acrylic counter with integrated sink. Ecrane, I think you're right, they're just a notch under Silestone in price.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
2:53 PM

Post #3943645

Ooh, this is clever -- look at the built in dish drainage space.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
2:54 PM

Post #3943650

If you decide to spend that much money on a counter, then what do you think your sink and appliances are going to look like compared to that surface counter top? pretty old,...
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 6, 2007
4:14 PM

Post #3943915

Hi Robin - When I was looking at countertops for my kitchen, Silestone was square foot for the mass of the counter and lineal foot for the front edge and that front edge price changed according to which type you picked. ie: bullnose, rounded... it was outrageously expensive! -Didn't do it.
And yes, red - cabarnet and roasts, cream - cookies. When I designed my kitchen I thought about the feeling I wanted to have in it. When I went to friends houses and they have that tuscany look or modern (which are both fantastically beautiful!), I would stand or pull up a barstool to their island and be a little more reserved. When I went to kitchens that were light and bright, I found that I more plopped down in the breakfast nook and had a more excited conversation and laughed alot! I wanted to laugh when I walked into my kitchen! Could be 'cause I can't cook! ANYWAY... Pottery Barn and Crate 'n' Barrel have combined both feelings. (both of those stores were on our wedding registry!) Young and fresh - a little contemporary, yet a bit elegant and sophisticated. I think that's why you're having so much trouble picking.

I LOVE THE SPICEBERRY! It's just different enough to be YOU and yet it's fresh and elegant.

Truly take your time on the countertops. That's where I went wrong. I wanted hammered metal. Crazy expensive in the stores but I thought if someone would just build me the frame, I could take sheets of metal and hammer it with a rubber mallet into place. Solder where it needed it. Well, noooooo. Everyone said it could'nt be done. So my contractor said come with me and took me to a place and said pick a granite slab. It's $600.00 for the granite AND the installation. I said "That one."
In my rush, I picked one that had nothing to do with my plan and threw everything off. UGH!

Figure out how much you can spend, then look at everything in that budget.

Terryr - making me rethink the lavendar!

jkom51
Oakland, CA
(Zone 9b)

September 6, 2007
5:31 PM

Post #3944155

digatunnel is correct, prices quoted DO NOT include edge or backsplash on solid surface. The only exception to this that I know of is Swanstone, which is actually a solid surfacing veneer over high-density particleboard. Their prices are by the linear foot, and included in the price is the basic 4" coved backsplash and a straight edge.

LG/Hi-macs is a Korean knock-off of Corian. Corian is no longer patent protected, so the Koream mfg LG who manufactures it for DuPont, immediately came out with their own identical version. The downside is the LG is the old Lucky Goldstar Corp. Their service can be extremely iffy in the US depending on region, and the customer service ethic isn't there at all in the company itself, unlike other vendors.

We really wanted Cambria, but the Swanstone pricing was so much better we used them instead. We have owned Swanstone integral vanity sinks in our bathrooms for almost twenty years and know they can take a tremendous beating yet look brand new. Like Corian, it is a matte finish, which we prefer. Our kitchen gets an enormous amount of natural daylight 365 days/yr, unlike many, and glare is such a problem I switched to a stainless faucet because the polished chrome was actually unpleasant in its glare during the summer.

Good luck in choosing your countertop material. It's difficult, with so many different options available to us now.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
7:12 PM

Post #3944410

Thanks, jkom (and others)

That is exactly why I was thinking about the LG/Hi-Mac. I don't want a shiny stainless sink that needs windexed every time you turn on the faucet or it looks dirty. Also, I would love to get a solatube and don't want glares like you said.

Gessiegail, the pic shows an *integrated* sink, it's a seamless part of the countertop, but you're right, my appliances would look dated, which is why I've said I'd like to update, but it's not an immediate concern.

If possible, I would replace my microwave first. It is all black and removal would make painting a bit easier. We also have to tape the upper portion of it on or it falls right off. I would LOVE to talk my mother-in-law into giving us a few bucks for it and placing it in her house she is trying to sell, which is appliance free right now. Here's one I like:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&productId=100476847

Next I would like to replace the stove because I want a SLIDE-IN CERAMIC top!! Like THIS:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=169214-2251-FES365EC&lpage=none

This would enable me to spend some money on a fancy backsplash which would have high visibility from the dining and living rooms! I LOVE this:
http://www.floormall.com/tile/dal_tile/maracas_glass_mosaics/dal-tile-p66611ms1p/
But maybe something larger and more neutral. That would be much easier to decide upon once cabinets have been painted, etc.

Hey, my husband is hanging the light fixture for me tonight! WHAT SHOULD I DO WITH THE RECESSED ALCOVE? I hesitated on painting it. Should I?
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
7:18 PM

Post #3944426

Before you get a ceramic top stove, go over to the Clean & Clutter Free forum and read the thread on them--I have one and absolutely love it (and loved the one at my old house too) but there are a bunch of people on that thread who are really unhappy with theirs.

On the alcove--I would leave it alone, as I've looked at the other pics of your house, it looks like it's wood trim that matches the rest of the wood trim in the house, so I wouldn't paint it unless you're planning to paint all your wood trim (which I wouldn't do--it looks like nice wood, and I'd make the same argument on painting it that I would for the brick on the fireplace). And it also sounds like you're not really sure about it--once you paint wood, it's a huge task to get the paint back off, so I absolutely wouldn't do it unless you're sure about it!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
8:13 PM

Post #3944583

Easy enough, thank you, ecrane.

BTW, I think I've tentatively made a decision on the cabinets!!
Anyone wanna wager which color I'm going with????????????????

Gotta go pick my little rugrat from school! I'll keep you in suspense. Anyway, I might change my mind in the next hour! lol!!

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
9:20 PM

Post #3944813

I bet you're going with the red...but I guess we'll all have to be in suspense for a little while longer!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 6, 2007
10:58 PM

Post #3945129

No, you don't have to paint all the trim in your house if you paint that trim in the recessed area around your ceiling fan. I wish to heaven I had photos of the trim at our old house that the builder put up at the ceiling. I painted it because it stuck out like a sore thumb. I had no other painted woodwork in the house. Once it was painted the exact color of the ceiling (which for me is the same as the walls) it blended in and nobody even knew it was up there. Before I painted it, everybody wanted to know why the trim was up there and proceeded to tell me how awful it looked. I don't liken painting that trim up on your ceiling to painting a fireplace at all.

I need to point something else out. The micro you want is very nice...but built in micros stay with the house, unless you buy something else before you list or before you show that is something different. So if you opt for black and stainless or just black appliances and the next home you buy has white, you have to buy a new one for that house to match your other appliances. Unless you're in an area where the appliances stay with the house. My mom has a slide in Jenn-Air electric range.
http://www.themaytag.com/30jeslelraje.html
It's not the ceramic top, but it is a solid surface. My grandmother has the ceramic top and hates it. The Jenn-Air is so easy to clean that my parents bought another one for their second home in AR.

Also remember that any of the tile floors you get will need the concrete board put down first. They're thick, so make sure your tile guy knows what type of threshold you'd like. The cheap metal ick ones won't look right and they won't work because of how high it is. Ask me how I know...lol...and no, I didn't discuss the threshold with them, so the guy I use for some carpentry stuff make me some out of old wood, but the tile wasn't cut perfect for the threshold, so the threshold's Tony made me are not against the concrete board and tile just right, so now there's a gap and it looks awful...sigh.

I'm opposite on the what the colors do for me. White would make me uncomfortable but red would have me talking and laughing up a storm. Red is great for baking cookies too...my cabinets might not be red, but my kitchen is!

digatunnel, I don't have a photo of my MIL's kitchen. It really is pretty. When a man walks in and says how nice the kitchen looks, I think I've accomplished something. She picked the color of purple, I suggested using the darker for the base of the cabinets and then I suggested what should be where. It was up to her though. If she didn't want it that way, I would of done whatever she wanted. She's extremely happy with how it turned out. I was almost done when I slipped off my ladder and broke my ankle...so it's a good thing she liked it! She had a counter that she liked and I did too. It was in various shades of purple and the colors matched the colors I was using. Her son though, my BIL, didn't think it should be purple, just in case she ever wanted it repainted. I also would of left her with her porcelain/cast iron white sink. It would of looked terrific in there. Repainting was a funny comment itself...her living room hasn't been painted since '74 with the same orange and yellow shag carpeting, the rest of the inside hasn't been painted since probably the '50's. A woman who hates change in any way shape or form.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 6, 2007
11:02 PM

Post #3945140

When I was comparing painting wood trim to painting the fireplace, I was talking about if Robin painted all the wood trim. I was thinking it might look weird to paint the trim in that one area but not the rest it might not look right, but if you've done it and it looks fine then that's something worth considering.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 6, 2007
11:09 PM

Post #3945159

I knew that's what you meant ecrane. Sorry I wasn't real clear in my reply. I had noticed the trim in another picture and just had that eeek moment remembering when our builder stuck it up on our ceiling. It just stuck out and looked dumb...I just can't be nice when describing how it looked! I'm too anal, I know...I've been told enough...lol. I've seen many tray ceilings before but I've never seen one "outlined" in the wood trim before. Like when we moved to TN and the builder had his guy do the knock-down on the walls and ceilings. After talking to him after the fact, it's cheaper and quicker and easier then to take the time to apply all the coats of mud and getting it smooth. Just like the popcorn ceilings. It's quicker and easier for the guy to spray that on then to get up there and apply all the coats of mud and get it nice and smooth. I know I know...anal again...;D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 6, 2007
11:41 PM

Post #3945260

You guys -- HELP ME!

I **HAD** decided on the white.

Now I'm thinking, "WHAT *IF* we never are able to afford replacing the countertops?" I would be in a sea of off white, punctuated by white appliances, and the one black micro. Ugh! If I could pull off good counters and at least one, preferably 2 or 3 steel appliances, then I think EITHER would look good. But as it stands now, maybe I'd be better off to go with the red! At lunch, I went to my husband's work and showed the pics to the former owner, who has good taste and an immaculate well-decorated house. I think she tried to cover up the fact that she couldn't believe I was even considering the red. She kind of stammered, "that's the color?" Then I showed her the off white and she was exuberantly positive. She loved those handles too. She said firmly, "I don't like the dark one."

Then my neighbor came over tonight. She said she thought the white would be very washed out with my counters and mostly white appliances. She also saw my granite sample sitting on the counter and when I mentioned that it would be nice, but I don't think I'd get my money back, she said she thought I would. Our taxes have raised in the last year and the new high school is set to open next fall and it's 3 blocks away.

I was kidding (sort of ) when I said I'd probably change my mind before I posted what I had decided, but here I am. LOL!

Maybe it will help to get the light fixture up. I also might go ahead and paint the living room and the dining table and chairs and see what I think.

Decision making is not my strong point. Can you tell??
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 7, 2007
12:33 AM

Post #3945460

The key thing is to take your time and make sure you're sure before you put any paint on the cabinets--they're a bit more work than painting walls, so you probably don't want to do it twice!

If you decide you do want the light cabinets but are worried about it looking washed out, you have a couple of options (other than doing the red cabinets). You could paint the walls a stronger color like red. Or you could just get some stronger colored accents--towels, flowers, things like that in bold colors like red will really punch things up. I think light counters + light cabinets can be boring if you pair it with bland colored accents, but if you add some colorful accent pieces, then it'll look like a nice light, bright kitchen.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 7, 2007
12:41 AM

Post #3945493

Thought maybe it would help you if I posted some pics of the kitchen at my old house. Here's a pic of the "before"...slightly beat up dark wood cabinets, with light colored floor and light/medium colored countertop:

Thumbnail by ecrane3
Click the image for an enlarged view.

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 7, 2007
12:42 AM

Post #3945499

Here's a pic in the middle...I painted the cabinets off-white/cream, but nothing else changed. So now it's light cabinets with light floor and relatively light counters, and it looks nice even without a lot of colorful accents

Thumbnail by ecrane3
Click the image for an enlarged view.

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 7, 2007
12:43 AM

Post #3945502

And here's the final pic after I painted the walls red (never did get around to changing the floor or counter before I moved!)

Thumbnail by ecrane3
Click the image for an enlarged view.

digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 7, 2007
12:53 AM

Post #3945544

All of your color choices are great! Maybe you're at that time that eventually comes to all women at some point, (or as I'm told it will), for you to put all your paint chips on the table and ask your dear husband to pick! All the choices are great - you really can't go wrong and he will be thrilled. When he picks just say "Perfect!". Now all of this is theory of course. I am a newlywed and have only been told about this.
Terryr - Husband says no to the lavendar!
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 7, 2007
1:14 AM

Post #3945626

Robin_Joey - I wouldn't try to change out all the appliances. Maybe just a white microwave so everything matches. This thread is so long I'm just assuming they'll all match! Unless you really are unhappy when using them, I'd just leave them be. The counters are going to be more than you think...I don't know why, it just happens. Look at how nice Ecranes kitchen came out and there is a black dishwasher! Doesn't matter, still looks incredible!

Ecrane your kitchen came out great! That red looks terrific!

Terryr- I'm thinking Tuscan brown serious red with lots of stone and brick. My kitchen is supposed to be yellow walls with white solid cabinets on the bottom and a little bright cherry red trim. I did learn to polyacrylic over the white from following this thread. Just cheery! BTW just kidding about hubby not liking the lavendar! It just won't go with my kitchen.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 7, 2007
2:19 AM

Post #3945896

Robin, most people think my mother has great taste. If I showed her the white vs the red, she'd say white. If I showed them to my sister, she'd say red. If I showed them to my best friend, she'd say red. People who have similar tastes as I do will always pick the color that I know is the right one, but can't make up my mind. Not really ;) I always know what I want, I don't second guess myself at all. My sister and my best friend do and so does my mom. I'm always helping them. I'm helping my best friend with the spare bedroom right now. Does the PO have the same taste as you do? Is her good taste your taste? My mom has good taste, just not my taste. Are you talking about the PO of your house?

Also, do you use a lot of accent type things in the kitchen? Other than my Longaberger baskets, I don't really have much of anything on the walls in there. A calendar, but I suppose everybody's got one. I have things on the counter...my butcher block with my knives, my jar with spaghetti in it, my mixer, toaster oven, basket with cook books and basket with spatulas, big spoons etc. Aside from that, not much going on at all. Two doors in there, one goes outside, other goes to the basement, so two rugs. I wouldn't have rugs if no doors though. Not into them in the kitchen. Help me out guys, I'm seriously dense as to what you mean by accents!

Lavender isn't for everyone. Her kitchen is just off the enclosed porch, so it gets a lot of light and isn't seen really from any other room. Old farmhouse in the country. The kitchen is the best looking room in the house. She could of had more, but she didn't want me to do anything more.

digatunnel, I've been happily married for 26 yrs. To show my husband something and tell him to pick would be disaster and seriously boring! I think some people just see things in their head and go find it. Easy as pie. Others really really struggle with color choices and how to arrange and and and...I see things in my head and I buy what I need to create the look in my head. Be it in the house or in the garden (which is our whole yard).

I'm going to show a picture of the front porch and how I painted it. People said I was nuts to paint the ceiling of the porch navy. But once I did it, they couldn't believe how cool it looks. I had to lighten it to show the different colors.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 7, 2007
2:22 AM

Post #3945901

Here's the other side. I painted the furniture in the same pumpkin color as the trim around the door. People tell me this isn't the same house as before I bought it.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 7, 2007
2:30 AM

Post #3945926

Well heck, it pays to look before I hit send...here's the picture I wanted of the front porch...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 7, 2007
2:31 AM

Post #3945933

I showed the pictures just to show that I did something that everybody said was a baaad idea, but now they think it looks great.
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 7, 2007
2:45 AM

Post #3945999

Wow Terryr - just beautiful! The colors all work great together! I can't wait to see what happens in Robin_Joey's kitchen. I like all the combos she's come up with, I just can't wait to see what she decides!...
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 7, 2007
4:14 AM

Post #3946293

I missed a lot of the recent thread...but i beg you not to spend money on appliances...On the last house I spent over 8,000.00 just for appliances in the kitchen...Jennair and the works...what a waste of money...this time I went to the least expensive store in CC and spent 3200.00 on everything in the kitchen...side by side refrigerator, a stove top with oven...an extra big oven put in below the microwave...a dishwasher and a freezer...all in black fronts...guess what???????????? they work just as well as the top of the line back almost 10 years ago...
Never ever again would I spend that much money on kitchen...(appliances, that is)...that 3200.00 included a commercial disposal as I have a septic tank...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 8, 2007
2:55 AM

Post #3949690

Ok, I'm going to try to make this a firm decision. :)

As of right now, I am going with... (drum roll please!)

TAWNY PORT! :-D

The one real benefit to white that I am a little worried about is that I could go with a darker flooring and darker countertop to help hide crumbs and dirt. The original intent of this remodel was to LIGHTEN the kitchen. I don't think I'm necessarily going to be doing that, but the improvements overall I think will be great.

Here's why I am going with the red: (I am making this list so that I can come back if (when?) I second guess myself. lol!

If you read an article on how to choose colors that best fit your style, they say to reflect on what colors in clothing, etc. you are drawn to. Well, my most ideal outfit is a black sweater with jeans. I don't actually wear a lot of red, but have been much more drawn to reds and browns lately. I'm big on green too, esp. lime green. The "trends" supposedly in colors are to bring the outside in, so lots of earthy colors and the "savories", like mustard gold (not gonna do it), red, orange and green. Chocolate brown is the new black, supposedly. ;-) I think I might do repaint my master bathroom cabinets in Spiceberry, which is basically chocolate brown. I think this will go well with my favorite knobs and pulls, the silver with the hammered center. I might try to do a glaze on top to add depth and increase the look of wood. IF ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO MAKE THE PAINT LOOK MORE LIKE STAINED WOOD, PLEASE fill me in! ;-D

Final biggie which sealed it for me is the countertops and appliances that I have right now will look good with the red, whereas I truly do think that the cream would have only really looked good if I had updated the counters and the appliances. I still want new counters, BAD. And a new sink. I want to save up for either granite tiles with wooden edge & stainless sink or LG/Hi-Mac counters, with an integrated sink. I also want a new faucet. If I get a new sink, I'm just gonna go for it!! I want one with the pull-out sprayer head!!!!! Oh, cheapest option for counters would be to tile it. I am sure I would be happy, but I'd have to learn how to do it and would have to live with grout.

For the floors, I'm going to do a tile. I REALLY want to do DuraCeramic, but I don't know for sure. I went to a showroom today where the lady (who sells tile) was saying to save money I should just go with the cheap clay, not even pay more for ceramic. (She was trying to help me save $.) Also, she said on average I could get granite tiles for approx. $10/sf. I don't like the cold feel though. Will have to think on this more. Oh, she also said she recommended the extra large tiles to open up the space. Said she'd done it in her kitchen and it made a huge difference. Ideas on that? I know I will want it on a diagonal.

Lastly, I would like to MAYBE cut out the center insert of the two largest cabinets (facing each other) and add frosted glass and lights inside. ;-D Oh and maybe some pendant lights over the bar.

SOOOOOO...WHAT DO YOU THINK?!

My husband left for Long Beach, CA today and won't return for several days. He tried to install my new light before he left and it won't work. I don't think it was him (though anything is possible), but he thinks the wiring was messed up. ??? I am upset because the light was only $33 and there were none left. I was going to buy a second one just to have as a back up for globes, etc and now wish I had.

So that's the latest in my design obsessed saga!

Wait till you see what I have in mind for the bathroom!! ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 8, 2007
3:52 AM

Post #3949924

First, are you sure your husband hooked the correct color coded wires to the correct wiring from the ceiling? That's the biggest mistake made. White to white, black to black and then ground to ground. All the light fixtures I've bought anyway have had white, black and ground wires. Did the light that was there work? If so, it's probably not hooked up right.

I like the colors and perhaps when you get the cabinets painted, the counters won't look so bad to your eyes after all. You're drawn to the same colors as I am, but I do wear red. Not primary red, but the cranberry red and colors like that. Brown is the new black, has been around for a few years now. I actually like brown and black together. The spare bedroom that's blue, will have a deep brown comforter and curtains, the furniture will be a red mahogany end table, painted black cabinet that holds DVD player and VCR etc, black iron daybed and a mahogany desk. I found a deep brown rug with the same blue color in it, but it's almost $300, so if it goes on sale, it'll be bought. The floor, which is wide pine plank flooring, will be stained in Fruitwood, with a satin floor poly on it. The end table that will go in there and another end table that will go in this room, were both stripped today. They're pine, stained in a golden oak color that I've disliked (the color) for years now. Hopefully tomorrow I can sand and stain them. By afternoon, I should be able to get the first coat of varnish on them. Both will also get a new blackened nickel knob. The cabinet I'm painting will also get the same knobs.

If you add the proper lights in the kitchen, you'll lighten it up. I don't necessarily think the floor needs to be light, but that's just my opinion. Not sure on the tile. That's something I'm not visualizing. I did the small hexagon 1" tiles (off white) in the 1/2 bath because the room was so small. In my eyes, the amount of tiles in the room gives the illusion that it's bigger. Room was done, walls and ceiling, in tongue and groove wainscoting painted Hot Apple Spice like the kitchen, toilet and pedestal sink in white, cabinet above toilet is also white.

I thought I said somewhere above...to make your paint more a stain, mix 4 parts paint (latex) to 1 part water and test. If it has opaqueness you're after when you test it on a scrap piece, use that. If not, add more water being careful to measure how much water you're adding. In case you need more than you mixed up. You might look into Milk Paint too, to see if they have the color of red/brown you're after or if you can mix your own using 2 or more of the colors they carry.
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 8, 2007
2:50 PM

Post #3950890

Yeah! It sounds great! I'm sure it will look just beautiful! I'm glad you opted for some form of red. It'll look great with the sage on the walls.
I have 12" tile on my laundry room floor at an angle and it really does look bigger. The only thing I would suggest is to get tile that has the color all the way thru it, on the inside, incase a child drops something and it chips, it won't show so badly. Also, on the tile, go to some of your smaller stores to check prices. I was surprised that some of them were much cheaper than the larger stores like HD. Also, if your going to do tile on the kitchen floor, watch how you're going to transition to the linoleum. I LOVE the linoleum you had picked for your entry. Actually, I think all the color combos you had picked were just great.
Keep going girl!
- Karen
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 8, 2007
3:47 PM

Post #3951130

Yea! Thanks, guys!

I am so tired and distracted with this whole thing. As I mentioned, hubby is out of town...guess what I did this morning. As I was mulling over colors, etc in my head, I was simultaneously pouring coffee and making the kids scrambled eggs. I ADDED SWEETENER TO MY KID'S EGGS! Doh!! I knew I needed that coffee!! Lol!! Well I've had a cup or so and now I'm functioning a little better. ;-D

My husband called last night and wouldn't you KNOW IT?! After DAYS of not committing to either color, when I tell him I think I'm going with red, he says he is sure whatever I pick will look nice, but he kind of prefers the cream. Good thing it was a long distance call or might have been flicked on the head! lol!

Ok, I really need to try and get some more ebay stuff listed. I'm also wanting to get some painting done today on the walls. If you would like to help support the Robin Kitchen Fund, take a look at my junk! Maybe you know someone who's having a baby!! (Otherwise I don't think most of you can use all the breastfeeding supplies! lol!!)

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZ**zuzu**

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 8, 2007
7:40 PM

Post #3951836

Guess what I just bought?

Amazon had a great deal on some lights I had been eyeing. Check out these prices! This is for the master bedroom. :-)

http://www.amazon.com/Globe-Senneville-Five-Light-Chandelier-60858/dp/B000GC0DMW/ref=combo_pack_i_1/103-9226232-7215806
I got one of these:

and 2 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Globe-Senneville-Two-Light-Upward-60855/dp/B000GC0DN6/ref=combo_pack_i_4/103-9226232-7215806

I will use the Spiceberry in there. :)

Robin :-D

digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 8, 2007
9:04 PM

Post #3952063

Just ordered one myself for the dining room!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 8, 2007
9:27 PM

Post #3952141

Gosh, is it HUMID outside! Just went to a parade (Homestead Festival this weekend) and was handed a magazine based out of Chicago that's featuring a kitchen and bath remodel business in town. Doing a very cursory glance at it, they talked about large tiles, can't remember the size now, but huge tiles, that all the rage now. Where's the first light going?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 8, 2007
11:55 PM

Post #3952539

These lights will be for the master bedroom. I'll post pics once my husband returns from out of town with the camera. Digatunnel, I'm so glad someone else grabbed one! Please share before and after photos!

Terry, Thank you for the advice on the paint. I have never heard of milk paint. Do you think the 4 to 1 ratio will give the look I'm after? Should I do a glaze on top? One thing I was thinking about was that I love the poly finish in the bathroom, but I wonder if there's a way to not have such a glossy sheen for the kitchen. A flatter finish would help me achieve the look of cherry wood better, I think. I wonder what to do about that. Hmm...

Ok, I'm gonna go make some boxed key lime bars with the kids and hopefully poop them out so I can get them to bed and paint the hallway!!!!

OH! One last thing -- someone slap me because I saw a bit of HGTV's Flipping Out today and the guy, Jeff, was standing in his house and had greenish black cabinets. WOW! They were awesome! Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... ;-O

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 9, 2007
12:20 AM

Post #3952631

I would think the 4 to 1 ratio would work fine. What finish did you buy the Polycrylic in? I always use satin, and it's not a gloss at all. To me, the finish is no different than my kitchen cabinets are, and they are side by side.

Here's a link to Milk Paint

http://www.milkpaint.com/

You can call them and ask what colors you'd need to mix to get the color you're wanting. You do get the opaque finish with their product and they're the ones who told me about Polycrylic. The more coats of Milk Paint you put on, the less wood you see. I did 2 coats and still see the grain. I wouldn't of been happy with just one, it was too translucent. Now that I'm thinking about it, instead of spray painting black onto my VCR cabinet thing, I think Milk Paint would fit this house better!

*slapping Robin as asked*
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 9, 2007
4:23 AM

Post #3953309

Oh! This is awesome ... look!

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/ah_real_estate_selling/article/0,1801,HGTV_3165_4743213_03,00.html

This is the before, be sure to click ahead to the after!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 9, 2007
4:29 AM

Post #3953316

And here's the color Lisa LaPorta used, "Tribal Pottery":
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124413&lineid=806&cbn=WT0E-G3H7-2PE1

And here's my "Tawny Port":
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124479&lineid=632&cbn=WQV4-HMRP-U2A1
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 9, 2007
4:32 AM

Post #3953321

And here is the info on the peel and stick laminate sheeting that they used to dress up the appliances. How hard do you think that would be to do???? It's pretty expensive, so maybe we could do just the dishwasher?

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/sheetingfx/brushed.stainless.htm
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 10, 2007
2:23 AM

Post #3956643

Robin, if I could trade in my micro and my stove for all black, no stainless, I would in a heartbeat. They are so hard to clean. I've got several products and none seem to work as promised. I think mostly, I hate that you have to go with the "grain" of the stainless, which is always going sideways instead of up and down. I'm just not a fan. I've seen stainless and black, but I haven't seen stainless and white, which is what your dishwasher would have to be. Just because I haven't seen it though, doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I've never looked for it.

You didn't answer my question! What finish is your Polycrylic? Satin, semi-gloss or gloss? That's going to make a huge difference.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 10, 2007
2:30 AM

Post #3956675

I've never seen stainless and white either, so if it does exist it's way less common than stainless and black. I think it's something about the stainless that just looks better with black trim. On your stainless appliances, are yours older ones, or are they the newer ones with the fingerprint-resistant finish? I thought they had made some improvements in that recently..
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 10, 2007
3:36 AM

Post #3957006

All my appliances are just a little over 2 yrs old. To get the fingerprint resistant, those were way more than I would ever pay for an appliance, and were only on higher end appliances. I saw a fridge that was like that, but at 2 grand, no way! It wasn't even anything fancy, no side by side with water and ice, no ice machine even in it. Somebody makes them that aren't stainless, but the finish is called stainless...can't remember who now though. My stove is Maytag (gas) and my above the stove micro is Amana, who is made by Maytag. I wish they were fingerprint resistant, but they aren't. They're a bear to clean. I honestly don't like either of them. If you never used them, maybe that would be something else, but I use mine. Our daughter has a habit of resting her palm on the stainless...and that just does not wipe off cleanly. I got talked into the stove...it's a 5 burner. I like a simmer for sauces and soups, and this was the only style I liked. Which now, I wish I'd just gone for this model in black.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
4:14 AM

Post #3957190

Hey Terry!

I just saw the can again when I was in the garage a while ago -- I wasn't sure, but it was satin after all. Maybe the "gloss" is almost more a gloss to the touch. Anyhow, it's definitely durable and smart for a kitchen area, but I guess I'm expecting too much of painted cheap cabinets. It's not real wood and that's that. ;-)

Oh! I had one other question to ask. I saw on one of the kitchen redo shows where they were painting cabinets and they quickly talked about doing the "clear coat" at the end and mentioned that they incorporated some into the paint during the whole process. Maybe doing that would give me the lighter intesity of color I'm sort of hoping for, and increased durability without having to do a final coat??? Will using a sprayer mean better results? I have noticed when I do walls, I tend to overwork the paint or roll over areas (trying to incorporate them and keep everything smooth) and mess up the texture. It dries funny in patches. I'm trying though!

Sorry I haven't posted much, hubby is out of town as I mentioned and I'm currently trying to get the hall painted! I'm up to my ears in Toasted Cashew! lol! I'm liking the look of it!! Hopefully he'll get the light fixture figured out and I can update with new pics!

One last thing, I got a D-Mail today saying that my subscription runs out in one week. I might wait a bit to resubscribe, but haven't fully decided yet. :)

Thanks so much, guys! We're going out of town this weekend, and I'm irked because I'd rather be here painting! lol!

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 10, 2007
4:22 AM

Post #3957215

You can still see this forum even if you let your subscription run out, you'll just lose a bunch of the other ones.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
5:09 AM

Post #3957316

YEA! Thank you, ecrane! And post to it as well?? :-)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 10, 2007
1:27 PM

Post #3957841

Kitchens is free for all members, whether they subscribe or not.

I've never heard of putting poly into your paint and I wouldn't. I tend to shake my can of paint if I didn't get the whole room painted in one day. And I shake it when I do a second coat the following day. You never shake poly, you can only gently stir. A person would use a sprayer to get it more even and smooth and supposedly the idea is to give you better durability. I work fast when I paint, rolling on a section and barely hitting the section I previously painted...working wet to dry. Don't go back over the section at all, just the very bottom or the very side...assuming you work like I do, from top to bottom in about a 4 ft section, then move over and repeat. So the top 4 ft is a section and the lower 4 ft under it is my next section. I always finish each section with a top to where I ended roll. Then I move over and do the next top 4 ft half a wall, and then the bottom. Does that make sense? I would also like my poly to be on top, so I am guaranteed the best top coat. I guess the same reason I don't use stain and poly in 1 can, I use oil based stain, let dry, then put on 3 coats of polycrylic.
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 10, 2007
4:01 PM

Post #3958474

I only use a spayer in an empty house! You won't believe the mist in the air from it. It would get all over everything everywhere! Actually, maybe I'm wrong about that. I've only borrowed my contractor's sprayer and it's something like 3 horsepwower! It's like trying to guide a firehose!

I agree with terryr - I would never use one of those combos like "paint and poly in one!" It just flat out doesn't look the same. Now I've never tried it with paint, but with stain - I use the seperate stain and then the polyurethane.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
4:11 PM

Post #3958517

No, Terry, I'm not as good a painter as you and these little tips, I am just learning. I am pokey and I went over it again and again. (I know better now, to work fast, edge first, keep wet edges, don't overlap.) Also, I keep getting interrupted by my kids. I stayed up WAY too late last night, but that's the best time for me to work. The hallway extends clear back to our laundry area and our door to the garage and I got to that point, so the entire hallway is done. YEA!

I appreciate your advice so much, Terry! Thank you!! I will try to stick to your method next time and I think the finish will be smoother.

Husband will be home tonight and I am so ANXIOUS to get that light fixture situation figured out.

I have two more paint colors, Warm Buff for the living room and Pebble Mosaic for the white on the dining room table and chairs. I tried staining a little light oak napkin holder I own last night and I don't get how to stain at all. I was experimenting to see how the wooden seats of my chair might look stained a slightly darker color. Do you wipe stain off? I used two different colors, rosewood and red mahogany and it just looked really sloppy. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Suggestions?

Oh, Bbrooke dmailed me some advice. She suggested I create my own top to the table set and then cut my existing table top lengthwise to create a topper for a banquette. I am still liking the banquette idea, but just not sure how to implement it just right to get the look I'm after. She sent me shots of several banquettes she has done in her work. Beautiful! I just wish I had more space for a regular dining table elsewhere instead of this being my only spot.

Ok, last issue, my husband does seem to be somewhat on board about removing the popcorn ceiling. (I dont' think he'll admit it, because I know he dreads the mess, but I think he is of the opinion that if **I** do it, and not him, then great!) When he tried to do the light fixture, he scraped the ceiling area just in the recessed alcove. I am thinking of doing the entire kitchen ceiling today so that that can be ready to be textured and painted before I finish the green walls and start on the cabinets. I saw some texturing material at HomeDepot. I have no idea how I'll do that, but I guess I'll learn! Terry, I liked your idea of painting your ceiling. The navy on your porch was striking and really beautiful. I would like to do a color a few shades lighter than the Toasted Cashew (the basic beige in the hallway). What do you think? Maybe Apricot Rose? http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124479&lineid=701&cbn=7657-VH2L-DXLW
Just something with a touch of color.

Ok, that's it for now! Thanks so much for sharing all the wonderful information and your terrific opinions!!

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
4:14 PM

Post #3958531

Hmmm...
I was going to borrow a friend's sprayer. I know for a fact I want to spray the cabinet doors, which would be outside in the garage, but I wouldn't mind brush painting the cabinets inside.

Thanks!

PS Who's going to make the 300th post??? lol!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
7:10 PM

Post #3959084

You guys are probably right about the stainless laminate. :-( Oh well. We'll see. I keep hoping for something to break down! lol! Especially the stove, so I can do a fancy backsplash. By the way, what is the standard for appliances in a house for sale? Seems like sometimes they are included, sometimes not. Seems like a strong selling point to me (less to worry about moving in.) My husband and mother-in-law act like it's no big deal to have a house with zero appliances. I think, if possible, it's better to have at least one or two decent appliances, esp. if the rest of the house is not so hot and you're hoping to sell ASAP, (like my mother-in-law, whose been paying two mortgages for 2 years or something ridiculous like that, because she can't "get around to" getting all her packrat crap outta there.)

Phew...next topic. ;-)

A guy at Home Depot the other day said that granite tiles are extremely difficult to lay. Really? Now that I know what my cabinets will be like, I am thinking more seriously about what I would like to do for the counter and floor. I WANT quartz and an integrated sink SO BADLY, but I'll bet that doesn't happen. Granite tiles with wood edging would be the next best option, followed by tile. Opinions?

I think I'm going to go with at least a 12x12 tile for the floor. I wonder how hard that will be because I'm definitely doing it myself. EEK!

Last thing: I want to cut out the center of the two largest kitchen cabinets (that face each other) and insert glass. I think I would need to use a trim to cover the cut part. Anyone have experience doing this? I've been looking for a trim that looks contemporary and can't find what I like.

Ok, have an ebay auction ending!

More later!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 10, 2007
7:20 PM

Post #3959122

Robin, please get your ceiling checked for asbestos before you go removing it yourself--if I remember right your house is old enough that there could have been asbestos in the popcorn. I think it is possible for it to be there in houses built up to the early 80's, although it was becoming less common through the 70's, but anything built before the 70's there's a strong possibility of asbestos. If it's there and you don't disturb it then it's no big deal, but when you go to scrape off the popcorn you'll create dust and that can be a big health hazard if there was asbestos in there.

As far as including appliances or not...especially if your likely buyers would be 1st time buyers coming out of a rental, it could be a good selling feature to leave them there, otherwise that's just one more expense that they'll have to incur, and buying a house is expensive enough. It's really more of a personal choice though, but anything that's built in (like if you have wall ovens or an integrated stovetop rather than a range) would have to be included in the sale, but freestanding things are optional. Personally I think it helps you if you offer them, but you'll probably still find someone to buy your house even if you don't.

I don't think granite tiles are any harder to lay than any other type of tile. They are harder to cut though, best thing is to buy or rent a wet saw to make the cuts (or you might be able to mark the tiles, then take them somewhere and pay someone to make the cuts for you). I've seen cheapo wet tile saws at Lowes for ~$80, or if you only need it for one or maybe 2 days you could rent a much better one for less than that.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
8:08 PM

Post #3959319

Thanks, ecrane. I agree 100%. It seems like "lower end" houses should just come with appliances. Who has stuff that is so wonderful they'd rather haul it in than have it already set up with no extra work? Moving is hard enough as it is. :)

Our house was built in 1986 (maybe 1987.) Do you think we're ok??

Thanks for being so considerate and helpful. You're awesome! ;-D

R.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 10, 2007
9:01 PM

Post #3959518

And I was thinking her house would be new enough not to have to worry about it. Another thing I've always read and heard is that if you have asbestos, it's the dust you don't want. Hence the misting of water onto the ceiling as you're scraping to cut out any dust. I pulled asbestos tiles out of this house, but I didn't stir up any dust. Nobody else here working...plumber, electricians, carpenter...were worried about asbestos at all. My dad commented that the asbestos tiles looked to be the exact ones he laid in a bunch of our businesses way back when...so I don't know. Wear a mask if you do do it, regardless of asbestos or not. I tend to do things that others wouldn't do though. I also wasn't living here and I don't have small children. I would say go with what the age of the house is to make the call as to whether or not you should be worried. Our first house built in '82, didn't have asbestos in the popcorn. Err on the side of caution, please. If your house is a newer home and you decide to take the popcorn off, use a lot of the plastic drop cloths to cover everything up. When you're done, you roll then all up into each other and carry them outside.

O.k. for staining...I use a old t-shirt cut into small squares, maybe 8" square. I stick my finger into the middle of the t-shirt and dip into the stain. Stain is something that is absorbed into the wood, so if your item has a finish on it, stain isn't going to work. It should be bare wood. It doesn't have to be new wood, but it can't have a finish coat of any kind on it. I go with the grain of the wood, wiping it in and when I'm part way done...this depends on the size of the item, I then flip my t-shirt to material that isn't full of stain and wipe off. For red mahogany, you usually need to apply it thicker, let it set for about 15 minutes, then wipe off. I don't care what the can says...lol...some say to wipe on and off and then wait 3 hours or more to reapply. I don't do it that way. I put a thick coat on and leave it for 15 minutes, then come back and wipe it off. If it's a large item, like the end tables I'm currently doing, or a door, I use a clean t-shirt square to wipe off. If it's still not dark enough, then I wait the 3 or more hours and reapply. Even if your napkin holder was bare wood, but it's been sitting around, finger oils touching it, it would need to be sanded down first. I'm sure the seats of your chairs have a poly or varnish finish to them. That has to be removed first. You can't just sand it to scruff it up like you can with paint, the clear finish needs to be gone completely.

For the ceiling, I'd use a shade or 2 lighter than the walls. If it was my ceiling, I'd use the same color or the darkest green on the color card, but if you'd rather it be lighter, then I'd stick to the same green. Find the green on your card and follow it up or down which ever way it goes lighter and pick a shade from that. The Apricot Rose looked too pinkish on my monitor.

If you like your table, I wouldn't be cutting it in half. Where would you put it with a new top on it? And why cut it? Why not just make your own little table top for the banquette? And keep your table as is? I know what you're wanting to do regarding it, but then I read more of what you're saying you want out of the room and I don't see a banquette as being formal. They're more informal and frankly, country looking to me. Sort of reminds me of the booth my grandpa created way back when. It was easiest and cheapest for him to make it than to buy my grandma a nice kitchen table ;) I think your kitchen is going to be warm and sophisticated, and the banquette just doesn't blend in right. But, that's my opinion.

I've never laid tiles on the floor or counter before. I have though, helped my sister put up a tile back splash. That was easy and was a lot easier standing and putting those up, then kneeling and trying to get floor tiles set just so. Leveling the floor with extra thin set...I don't know. I'd rather hire somebody to do it.

When we moved to TN, the micro and dishwasher were included with the house we sold. I was getting a dishwasher down there, but I didn't want the el cheapo stove the builder was going to put in. I told him to keep it and buy me an above the stove micro instead. His stove was electric and I had a 5 yr old gas one. When we went to sell then down there, the Realtor seemed to think it would be better to include my stove and fridge in with the house. I don't know that it made any difference. I've seen way too many houses with one fridge in the house, then somebody buys it and gets in there and the fridge that was in there, is not the fridge they get. My girlfriend just did the same thing. I told her to put the old one in the kitchen and put the one they were taking in the garage, but she didn't. I guess the people thought it was a "bait and switch". It wasn't...it said in the listing that the kitchen fridge went, the garage fridge stayed. But people don't read I swear. IF were to move, I would not leave my stove or my fridge here. Oh heck, the first people who bid on our house up here (we didn't accept), wanted my washer and dryer too! Come on! Anything built in though, the dishwasher, the micro, the disposal, all those have to stay. Unless you change them out before you move. Same with light fixtures. If you put up a really nice light that matches something you own and you want the light, you can switch the light before the house is shown. I did that. It wasn't that it matched anything, it's that I'd been looking for this light in my head for a couple years and finally found it down in AR while on vacation! I was not leaving it behind up here or down there. My mom took the light in the kitchen of their old house. It was really expensive and she wanted it. So my dad took it down and replaced it with something cheaper. I think that's pretty common. If you're only going to be in this house for a few more years, I don't think I'd put a lot of money into the appliances. I know there's paint for them, but I'm not familiar with it at all. Also body shops will paint them. They do up here anyway. Not during deer season when everybody's hitting deer, but when they're slow. PLEASE, do this for me. Paint your kitchen and paint your cabinets, then show what it looks like. I'm thinking it's going to look fine with the white in there. They don't look old, so if it ain't broke...

In my kitchen up here in our other house, I had glass in all the short cabinets...above the stove, sink and fridge. They had an edge created on the inside, then a little clip that held the glass in. If you're using just something on the back to hold them in, it's going to show and I don't think you're going to like that. Do you have a cabinet shop anywhere there? I'm not sure I would want to be cutting on my cabinet doors if I'm not sure exactly what I'm doing. Otherwise, I'm going to end up without a door for a cabinet, and that's not good. You'd want from the routered edge in, to be cut out. You might even check with a glass shop, they might do a lot of cabinets.

The biggest thing when painting is not stopping till you hit the end wall. You don't need to finish the whole hallway, but you need to go all the way down the hall without stopping. That's when the paint starts to dry and it shows. Also if you go back and look, and you see areas that you missed, little pinhole type things, don't worry about them. You'll get them on your second coat. I always prime, just a habit, so I have my primer tinted to the color I'm doing, or for red, I tint dark gray. Doesn't necessarily mean only 1 coat of paint, but it covers better. That another thing, I don't care what the can says, 2 coats or more of paint always look better!

Finally, I wish I was next door to help you with this. It's easy to do when you've done it as much as I have. You know that gap in there between the cabinet and your micro? Just use a small artist brush to get up in there and paint. And remember, if you tape your baseboards, it's a guide where not to paint, it's not so that you can slop paint onto it. I don't tape. I hate tape. Anyway, if you tape, but you need to add a second coat but you've paint on the tape, pull the tape off while the paint is still wet. Then re-tape the next day. Otherwise the tape pulls the paint off your walls.

O.k. post made while I'm typing. You're safe if your house was built in '86. No asbestos in the popcorn.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
9:29 PM

Post #3959626

Terry,

Believe me when I say, I wish you were next door to help me too! lol!! As a matter of fact, I'd take ALL OF YOU! We could have a heck of a painting party if I could find a babysitter! LMAO!

I've just got the "wanties" for the pretty stainless steel. You're right, my appliances "ain't broke" so I shouldn't worry about fixin' em. ;-D

I saw a pretty granite tile called Venezia Gold Dark (I think) that would be really pretty, then with a tile floor? YUM!! What do you all think? Could I figure out laying granite tiles? Remember, I have a friend who flips houses who could loan me a tile cutter. He MIGHT even come get me started some weekend, then Joey and I could finish the job. Oooh, I'm getting excited just thinking about it!

I have earned over $200 in ebay sales and have lots of smaller items still to sell, like lots of baby clothes and toys. I think I'm gonna tell my husband I want a new kitchen by Thanksgiving. That's reasonable right? (Last year, I hosted a big meal for the first time.)

Well, kids are climbing me like a jungle gym, must run!

Thanks so so so much for the advice, you guys are the best! ;-)

Robin
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 10, 2007
9:37 PM

Post #3959654

Terry, I forgot to add, the only way I can paint is after the kids are in bed and I'm not even going to tell you what time it was when I went to bed. (I told you I'm slow.) So, I stopped at sort of a "seam" in the wall, but I had to quit. It looks pretty good but I don't know if I'll do a second coat or not. You really recommend it??

Oh and I tried to find a lighter version of Toasted Cashew and they all get into the yellows or peachy colors. When i mentioned light green to hubby, his eyes bugged out. Can you explain to me your reasoning for your preference for the green? I might be able to be convinced, I just thought a nice light color would "open up" the area.

One more thing Terry...I did look around quite a bit on the Milk Paint site and the hues look beautiful but I wonder if I should just stick with Tawny Port since I've already found it? Is there a certain quality to the Milk Paint that you recommend?

Thank you, Terry! I appreciate all your help!!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 10, 2007
11:53 PM

Post #3960148

If the friend flips houses, then I would think he'd be more than glad to help you? I was just told Sat at the parade when I saw my sister's best friend who now lives in Telluride CO, that my sister and I really need to get into the flipping house business...lol..not here though. We wouldn't make a thing!

O.k. my reasoning...are you in my head?? You need to be in my head...lol...when I see a white ceiling, to my eye, it's being cut off and I know right where the ceiling is. Like when they say you shouldn't wear a black shirt, white belt and perhaps a black and red skirt? They say it "cuts" you off? But if you remove the white belt, your body isn't cut off and you look better. (This is hard to describe...lol) It does the same thing to me in a ceiling. My ceilings, being the same color, aren't cut off, they just go up and you don't notice a thing. I like doing darker ceilings for 2 reasons, 1) they look neat 2) It warms up the room. I don't mean the temp, I mean the feel of the room. The feeling I want to evoke in a person. Dark doesn't close in on me, it's evokes a feeling of warmth. Light colors don't "open" up a room. The lighting does. The compliment that I remember the most is when a friend I only see occasionally because she lives out of state, was herewith her boyfriend visiting her mom. They came over for a few hours... Jean got up to leave and told Darrell it was time to go, but Darrell wouldn't get up. He said he couldn't get up. He felt warm and love in my living room. It was cozy. Hokey? I don't know, but it sure made me feel good!

Colors come in color families. The green you've chosen is in a family. You need a green within that family, not a grass that needs iron kind of green, but that sage warm green you've already got on your walls. I don't know if this works how I want it to or not..
.
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124338&lineid=620

O.k. now find the Monticello Rose and above that is Somerville Red. Somerville Red is something I would use on the wall (which is exactly what my living room is) and if I wanted a lighter color on the ceiling, I would use the Monticello Rose. Do you follow what I'm saying?

My thinking on the Milk Paint is that it can go over sealed surfaces, you just need to add the Extra-bond into the first coat. It will also give you that look of a stain that you want, but it isn't stain, it's paint. I don't think on the areas where the finish is gone, that the Milk Paint will make it look like a stain, but rather as a paint and time worn. Two coats of it are going to give you a creamy consistency that have a solid, opaque coating.

I can't figure out what the heck is wrong. I can be typing and suddenly it jumps up to where I've already typed, yet I'm typing down below, albeit blindly. I scroll back down, but the minutte I hit a key or the shift key, I bounce back up. So for now, I'm going to stop and see if DG is having problems of some sort??
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 11, 2007
12:14 AM

Post #3960237

Terry,

Thank you so much for the added insight. I see what you are saying now about the color of the ceiling. I don't know if in this space it would be a good thing to extend into more green or not however. I wish I could wave a wand and look at two different options right before my eyes. :) I also understand about the color families, BUT, it seems like my green wall color is in a brand (Valspar's Seaside Retreat) that does not look very true on the colorcharts site and also the display in the store shows the colors in mostly a random fashion. It is next to some other greens, but I wouldn't necessarily say that one is the lighter shade of another. The other thing about this ceiling is that it is so open to the living area and does not even have the green on but two walls at the most. So it might be eaiser to find a lighter shade of the living room color, warm buff, like this one, "Churchill Hotel Ecru."
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124425&lineid=824&cbn=X5VU-V968-D9B1

Anyhow, I'll think about it a bit more. I need to get it down and then textured, so I've got a bit of time. :)

I think I'm getting what you are saying about the Milk Paint. I'm just scared to let go of my hard fought red color. ;) lol

Thanks - have to run - more later!
R.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 11, 2007
1:33 AM

Post #3960665

I can't figure out the color charts on that site. When I'm in the store though, it's right there on the card, so it's easy. Unless the cards at Lowe's are all by themselves? BM and SW paints aren't. You can also find a color from them and have Lowe's match it when you move on to your bedroom ;) I don't know if you asked them to cut the color by 75% if that would be the right color or not. If you can get a pint or a quart of it to see? I'm just thinking out loud...you might ask them how they could get that shade, just lighter. I know money is tight. What I did once when I wanted one paint on a chip and what they mixed up was not that color, I had them keep adding in black. It was supposed to navy, but it was royal blue. So they just kept adding more and more black till it was the color I was looking for. Talk to your friend who flips houses, he might do tinting himself and know how to get the color you want.

Definitely Robin, I understand. It took you a long time to decide on that red, I just thought if there was a red in there that interests you, you would have the grain like you want it. I also think though, that by experimenting with the color and water, you'll find what you're looking for.

Have you thought about doing skim coats on the ceilings instead of taking off one texture only to apply another? The tape and at least one coat of mud should be up there. Now all you need to do is apply a few skim coats. Those are just thin coats over your whole ceiling. So your ceiling would be flat and not textured.

This isn't the best picture and I understand the room is bigger than your kitchen, but here's our bedroom and it's a sage green. You can see the ceiling in the same color as the walls. Gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Thumbnail by terryr
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 11, 2007
2:22 AM

Post #3960914

Hey Terry, thank you. Very pretty pic! Ok, that does definitely illustrate what you I thought you meant. Now, in my room, which color would you use? I sort of feel like I want the green to be in smaller doses. I am tying in the computer counter and our couch and that's enough for me. I really like the green wall color I've picked, but I don't want much more than what I have. I do like the hallway color and I THINK I'll really like the living room wall color. Since this is not a typical 4-walled area, I'm having a harder time picking all the different colors.

I have never heard the term skim coat, but I think I see what you mean and that is defnitely an idea. The wall with the 2 French prints on it has wallpaper that I painted over. (I KNOW, I KNOW!!) So it has a smooth finish. The wall with the computer and shelving has a texture. There is a bit of wall to the right that stretches to the entryway and has a doorway and a closet on it. I was trying to decide what color to paint this little strip. If I painted the computer's wall the green, then went to the living room wall color for the little stretched out bit, then went to the entryway, I thought it would seem choppy. (This is hard to explain in words with no pics. Sorry.) Anyhow, if you don't follow me, that's ok, but thanks, you've given me something to think about. :)

What do you think, should I do a second coat in the dining room and the hallway? I will admit, I left the tape up and it has already dried. Last night, for the first time I tried to really edge the paint without the use of paint and I am not good at it, but I will try to improve. That tape is actually fairly expensive! I was trying to save drips on our baseboard even though I loathe it and want to replace it! Ditto on the carpet. Ugh! It is SO dirty. I wonder if I can talk husband into replacing it sometime in the next year or so.

Back to scraping!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 11, 2007
2:31 AM

Post #3960951

I know we've moved beyond the ceiling...but the house built in '86 you should be totally fine on the asbestos. For some reason I was thinking the house was built in the 60's or 70's, but maybe that was another thread I was following!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 11, 2007
2:53 AM

Post #3961035

Are you trying to say something ecrane? ;-) lol!

Just kidding, usually I'm the scatter-brained one. Anyhow, I really appreciate your valuable input and lookin' out for me and the kiddos!!

Thanks!
Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 11, 2007
2:54 AM

Post #3961043

No, wasn't trying to say anything, just I was at work all day and missed a bunch of the discussion and you'd moved on to other subjects by the time I got back on the computer! But I wanted to make sure and come back to that and make sure you knew you should be OK on the asbestos.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 11, 2007
3:04 AM

Post #3961093

What walls in the kitchen are green? What walls in the dining area are green? And the rest are?? Help me Robin. In the dining area, is only the 1 wall green? The wall that shares with the kitchen? If so, what is the other color? Or is it yet to be painted? Give me colors please! ;)
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 11, 2007
3:24 AM

Post #3961182

Everything in the kitchen dining room is green. I actually have not painted the computer's wall yet, because the shelves need to be taken down and I'm leaving that for hubby.

Here are some pics that should help.

In the actual kitchen, the paint is above and below the cabs.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 11, 2007
3:25 AM

Post #3961189

panning to the right...

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 11, 2007
3:27 AM

Post #3961206

and then the wall with the computer. The skinny part with the light switch was where I was going to start the living room color, Warm Buff.

PS In the first pic, the wall with the clock that stretches over the dining area, as well as the entire hallway is now the Toasted Cashew same as the entryway.

Does this help?

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 11, 2007
3:41 AM

Post #3961262

Yes, it does. Why not paint the computer wall and keep on going with the Warm Buff? Or if it's connected more to the hallway, why not use that color? It's late now I know and I'm heading to bed, but if you can show me a picture of the area in question and how it relates to the hallway and to the living room, that would be great. First thing in the morning ;)

Oh, how does the wall look? Is there any of the little holes that I always seem to get that have the underneath color showing? I also think with 2 coats, it gives you the better color. The truer color. A more even look and color. You said you overworked it in some places and it shows, but you'll lose that by repainting it the second time. And I swear, the second coat goes on much faster than the first! Why do you live so far away?? drats...

Could I get an updated photo of the kitchen and the hallway color too? Please?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 11, 2007
3:02 PM

Post #3962469

Well, my husband took the camera to work to show off his pics of his trip to California.

I don't think right now I would take pics anyway because I have ebay stuff everywhere! Lol!

Right now, I think I'll concentrate on the ceiling. I am halfway done scraping. (Yes, I'm doing it bit by bit with lots of breaks. lol) I mentioned to husband doing regular paint vs. textured and I think he was undecided. The texturing hides imperfections, which there are a few of. What to do...

Next I might do the dining chairs and table.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 12, 2007
2:46 AM

Post #3965029

If you like texture, then go for it!

Did you ever figure out what you were doing wrong with the stain? I finally got my end tables all sanded and I stained the under side of them. Tomorrow I can flip them over and finish with the stain. I think they can be varnished (it's a furniture varnish) in 3 hours. I'm excited! The red mahogany looks really good. Who'd of thunk? Well o.k. I did, but my husband was skeptical...lol. Now to get to HD and buy some blackened nickel knobs...or perhaps if we leave early enough in the morning, we can take a run down to Peoria and I can get the Milk Paint too!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 12, 2007
6:52 PM

Post #3967175

Hi all!

No, Terry, I never really figured out how to stain. Your description of the technique helped, but I don't have anything that's bare wood, so I guess I don't even need to worry about it. :) How did your project come out?! Share pics with us!!!! ;)

Ok, here is a pic of the chair I started painting. I would like your opinion on the color first off. It is called Pebble Mosaic and I was thinking it would have a bit more olivey green to it. It basically looks chocolate brown but this is only one coat. Should I top it off with regular black?? Maybe that would match the computer counter better? I certainly don't want to add brown to the mix. Our couch is olive green microsuede. I also considered going ahead and buying some of the Tawny Port and trying it out on the chairs. What do you think?

Next, I need advice on what to do about the seats. They are glossy with varnish, but my daughter chewed (yes chewed) on them around the edge so 2 of them look like a little beaver got to them. (Geez, I thought she was actually napping!) They are the lightest wood we have and I would like to make them darker, preferably, medium oak or cherry colored. So should I use something like that Citristrip stuff? Then sand the heck out of it, then what? I guess I don't know what to do with it.

Sorry I'm thinking out loud here. Sounds like my boy doesn't want to take a nap after all so I better go get him out of his crib. Thanks for your advice! I appreciate it!

Robin ;-D

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 12, 2007
6:54 PM

Post #3967184

Oh, good news on the light fixture. :-) Husband went there last night and apparently they DID still have a few (I must have missed them) and he is putting the new one up tonight! YEA! Now I'm thinking about going and snagging another one for the living room, but I don't think I would be able to talk husband out of BOTH ceiling fans. It is going up tonight hopefully!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 12, 2007
7:12 PM

Post #3967249

Please excuse the mess, but here are some pics to show the little corner spot where I am undecided about what color to use.

As I've said, this whole updating thing began with the foyer. I painted it Toasted Cashew. Now that I am serious about painting the living room Warm Buff and the dining room is Marine Reef, I am not sure what to do about this corner. It would go from Marine Reef in the dining room to the Warm Buff by daughter's room, then Toasted Cashew in the foyer, back to the Warm Buff on the remainder of the living room wall. (Sorry that sounds so complicated.) Anyhow, I guess I COULD even repaint the foyer in the Warm Buff so it has more continuity. The Toasted Cashew is above that soffit (is that what it's called?) that stretches above the dining area. I think I will paint the kitchen/dining ceiling in Toasted Cashew.

Just wanted to give you the requested pics. THANKS!

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 12, 2007
7:12 PM

Post #3967253

panning towards the dining area

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 12, 2007
7:13 PM

Post #3967257

and further left

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 12, 2007
8:47 PM

Post #3967594

Oooh! I have a box from Amazon on my step! Digatunnel, how 'bout you?

:-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 13, 2007
12:56 AM

Post #3968404

Robin, If the living room is a separate room, I'd use the color that you used in the hallway, that I believe you used in the foyer in that area. I would paint that one wall where your desk is in the dining area, in that same color, which I believe is toasted cashew. I don't think you're going to like that two different colors on a wall that just has a bend in it like you showed up above. If these walls are connected to the living room though, I'd probably use the living room color. I'm not sure where your entry way is in all this? Connected to any of this? For your chair, yes, get some sort of stripper and go at it on the seat of the chair. Citristrip is one that I tried, but wasn't happy with the length of time it took for it to work, so I used (and still use) Stripeeze. It's a lot more powerful, and toxic. You might not be comfortable using around your children. Chemical resistant gloves and course steel wool are my best friends. I have always used it, but if I can, in the garage. It's great stuff, but you have to understand what you're using and use caution. You'll want to use whatever you decide on, probably in the garage or at least outside. And yes, use a palm sander to sand the heck out of it. You should be able to get a lot of the chew marks off, unless they're really really deep, like a large dog would do, but I don't think your daughter would of ;) I have 2 palm sanders, one is from Sears and is a Craftsman, called a mouse. It has an attachment to it that would fit in between the ladder backs. Another thought you could try, is that at our SW, they have this green sandpaper that is for paint removal. You could use that first to see how it takes the varnish off. I like black and brown together, but if it's not a look you want and you're not using any other brown, then go with the Tawny Port or black for the legs. I think black would look really sharp with a red mahogany stained seat.

Unfortunately, I'm not feeling well today. I wasn't able to flip my tables over and do the tops. I'm hoping to do them either tomorrow or the next day, then put the furniture varnish on them. I also wasn't able to get to HD or even down to Peoria today to get some new knobs and the black Milk Paint. I never got dressed. If you can Robin, buy a cheap piece of wood and practice staining on it. It's really simple. Kind of like a rub on, rub off. Going with the grain of the wood. Swipe a t-shirt of your husbands, preferably white and cut it into squares to use. Latex gloves are a must. I buy the box of throw away ones from Wal-Mart. Sand the wood before you stain though, to smooth it out. I prefer no finer than a 150 grit, but that's just my opinion. I will definitely post pictures when I'm done with all...the end tables and the VCR/DVD cabinet.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 13, 2007
4:12 AM

Post #3969334

Hey, kids are in bed, so it's my chance to get some work done, but wanted to answer a question for you, Terry. The foyer is immediately to the right of the first pic I posted today.

I think after talking to husband that I will repaint *ugh* the foyer. It's a small space though and since I painted over wallpaper, it's probably a good idea anyhow. The living room and dining room are all one space.

Robin ;-D

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 13, 2007
5:07 AM

Post #3969444

Terry, I hope you are feeling better very soon! :-)
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 13, 2007
2:40 PM

Post #3970323

Ok, so I am udecided on this whole texturing or not thing. We have spots that are really bunged up, like:

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 13, 2007
2:41 PM

Post #3970326

and this:

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 13, 2007
2:43 PM

Post #3970331

I see that the pics are not really showing it very well, but I would like a flat surface, I just don't think I can get a surface that is truly smooth. Just spackling and sanding? Are those my only options for smoothing these out?

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 14, 2007
1:12 AM

Post #3972634

NOT Spackle! You can buy a small tub of joint compound, aka mud. Use that with about a 2 to 3 inch putty knife. Slap it up there and smooth it out, making a thin layer. You can add more to it if it's too thin, just don't make it too thick that it takes forever to dry. When you do it, just feather it onto the areas that aren't all bunged up. Take your light down, or at least have it just hanging from the wires...it looks like a light weight fixture. If it's heavy, then take it all the way down. You'll know what the mud is dry based on the color. It's going to dry lighter than it is when you put it on. It's easy.

I took pictures, but I haven't put them on here yet. I got most of the end tables stained...the drawers and the drop leaf parts on one, I forgot, so I did the bottoms and part of the sides also on the drawers. Now for them to dry. It's not humid out, but it's also not very warm out. Slows the drying time down considerably.
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 14, 2007
11:48 PM

Post #3976193

Hello ladies!!!!!!!!!!!! YOu mean to tell me that you don't have this job finished by now (LOL)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 15, 2007
2:03 AM

Post #3976668

Well, I've been busy, don't know about Robin. I have 3 pictures to show...this stinks, I can't find a before picture and dummy me didn't even think about not having 1. sigh. So anyway, imagine these tables as a honey oak color. Not anymore...and I'm also sorry, but I must of had some water or something on the lens of my camera...so it shows up looking like water spots on my tables. Hopefully I picked the best of the ones I took...because there ain't no going back...lol. Also, took a run to Peoria today to buy some Milk Paint and wouldn't you know it, but they were all sold out of Pitch Black. So, I just ordered it online. Not sure how long it takes to arrive...another sigh. Now remember, these tables aren't done. They don't have the furniture varnish on them...which now I wonder if I should shellac them. Hmmm...anyway, here's pic 1 of the bottoms of the tables done...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 15, 2007
2:05 AM

Post #3976670

Pic 2, they're right side up, showing unfinished tops...looks like they might need another coat and the picture sure shows the blue on the walls in that room awful looking...they aren't that color of blue.

Thumbnail by terryr
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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 15, 2007
2:08 AM

Post #3976675

And finally, stain on all them. I finally did the bottoms/sides of drawers and the bottom of the drop leafs. I did get knobs for them today at Lowe's. Seems nobody carries the blackened nickel anymore ;( So I bought burnished bronze. Egg shape.

Thumbnail by terryr
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digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 15, 2007
5:03 PM

Post #3978223

Yep! My Amazon box is here too! As a matter of fact, DH is opening it and mumbling something to himself that I'd rather not hear - this very minute!

Terry - You're so handy I wouldn't be surprised if you had made those tables yourself!

Studying for a state exam so I won't be on the computer again until Tues. ( I'm just sneaking in a break! I had to know how things were going!?) For me, making a ceiling look smooth is not easy.

I really think you should paint that brown wood trim in the middle of your ceiling the same color as your ceiling. It's as subtle as a jet engine!

Overall, are you excited about all you've accomplished so far? You should be!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 16, 2007
3:23 AM

Post #3980277

digatunnel, nope, I didn't make the tables myself, but thank you for the compliment! I do have a dresser in the garage that I want to redesign. Remove all the stuff inside for the drawers, remove back and part of the front middle, install new pine plywood in the back and basically make a shelf in the middle going side to side, and then another piece going up and down in the middle. So when you look at it, it's an open front dresser with 4 spaces for things. 2 spaces will have baskets with the basic bathroom stuff (band aids, Neosporin, etc. etc.), the other spaces will hold towels. I'll paint it white when I'm done. I hope that makes sense. I didn't get the second coat of stain on today...had a funeral this morning and then my husband and I worked on finishing up with the horizontal lattice and trim on the front porch. Hopefully tomorrow the next coat will go on.

What's new Robin??
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

September 16, 2007
6:17 PM

Post #3981866

Terry, post pics of the dresser when done. It's a gotta see item. lol
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 16, 2007
8:58 PM

Post #3982326

Here's one that's similar. Already made that way from Pottery Barn. Imagine no top drawers and make it longer, then you've got it.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

September 16, 2007
9:05 PM

Post #3982347

Neat. I like it.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 17, 2007
11:46 AM

Post #3984197

Good morning!

My husband had an early flight out of town this morning, so I'm up even though I don't wanna be. We were out of town this weekend for a Bluegrass festival in Joey's hometown. We saw both sides of the family and had a great time eating and watching music. Had a little TOO much fun Friday night and both had headaches Sat. Then Sat. evening, I got some kind of flu-like thing. No nausea, but fever, chills, headache and body soreness. Ibuprofen helped, so I limped through the weekend then slept most of the 3-hour drive home and then the rest of the evening.

ANYHOW, Digatunnel, get this, Joey does not want the light fixture in the bedroom! AT ALL! He does not want to give up his ceiling fan, so I'm trying to decide what to do with this light! It would look SO pretty with our master bedroom colors.

I finished scraping the popcorn off the entire hallway (just not the laundry room.) So it will start today trying to get the surface as smooth as possible, ready for paint. I want to do the ceiling first before I finish any more walls.

Well, muscles are still achy, so I'm gonna go for now. I will update soon with more! Thanks everyone!!

Robin ;-D
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 17, 2007
3:44 PM

Post #3985032

That's too funny! Oh No! My hubby called it the "practice light."- see if it's the right size to get a different one! UGH!
It really is a nice light fixture though. I will try to post before and after pics later. Have a nice day!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 17, 2007
11:11 PM

Post #3986447

Robin,my husband would never let me change it out the ceiling fan in the bedroom either if for some reason I wanted to. I'm having a hard time with a chandelier in anything but the dining room. Perhaps the foyer if it's the right one.

Prime where you've applied the joint compound first...do the whole ceiling. Before you paint. And tint the primer so that you can see the ceiling better. That way, if there's any imperfections, you can use more joint compound to smooth it out better. The skim coats we, mostly me, did in the spare room, got 2 more skim coats on top of the primer before I was satisfied.

I did another coat of stain on the end tables and they look awesome. Now for them to dry...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 20, 2007
1:45 AM

Post #3995282

Ok, I'm going to try and finish the ceiling tonight!

Btw, I'm buying a palm sander and wondered if you had any suggestions. :)

I posted this on the painting forum:
I'm going to order a palm sander from Amazon.com but can't decide which one would be the best.

Maybe this one?
http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-D26441K-Heavy-Duty-Orbital-Sander/dp/B0007XXHGE/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-9226232-7215806?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1190251569&sr=8-1

Maybe this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RO410K-Orbital-Canister/dp/B0002ZU756/ref=sr_1_3/103-9226232-7215806?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1190252566&sr=1-3

Thanks for any input you might have on this topic -- which I am clueless about. ;-D

Robin
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 20, 2007
4:06 AM

Post #3995847

Robin!! I'm the queen of palm sanding!! Buy #1. The DeWalt. The second one takes special sandpaper with holes if you want the dust bag to work. I know this because that is exactly what my sister has, but we didn't have the holes in the sandpaper. The first one just takes a full sheet of sandpaper, cut into 4 squares that clamp on. Much easier and much cheaper.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 20, 2007
11:41 AM

Post #3996321

Thanks, Terry. I did read about that in the review and that made a lot of sense. More practical and economical. The other one has a nice grip and the dust collector seemed better, so I was trying to weigh the pros and cons, but thank you, I think you're probably right.

I did not get ANY painting done last night. I put my kids to bed and walked STRAIGHT into my room and fell asleep. With Joey out of town, I poop out easier. ;-) I woke up at about 3 in the morning and couldn't go back to sleep! I'm gonna try and get some work done now that it is nearly morning. Maybe the kids and I need a run to the donut shop.
:-P

Thanks, Terry! We're waiting on pics from you of your latest project!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 20, 2007
1:48 PM

Post #3996753

Which one...lol...?? I've changed gears, end tables are still upstairs needing to finish coated and we're now working on extending the deck and adding a ramp. I also want to make the railings on the deck look like our front porch...because really, a deck on a house that's 111 yrs old looks goofy...lol

I used my sisters (#2) all the time. It was as easy to hang onto as any that I've ever used. I think the DeWalt will be easy to hang onto also, they're just not promoting that part of it like the other one is. You can use the 2nd one with regular sheets of sandpaper, I think 1/4 sheets too, but the dust bag doesn't work if you don't use the right sandpaper.

Well, breakfast time, hubby's yelling and we need to get outside and get going on the deck!

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 21, 2007
12:43 PM

Post #4001078

Another unusually ealry morning around here. Joey returned from a 4-day business trip and the kids were up late, so doesn't that mean they should SLEEP LATE? Apparently not. ;-)

Terry, we want to see your tables, unless you have another project you want to show us, in which case, we want to see both! lol!

I'm moving slowly on the ceiling. grrr I want it done! I'll try and post pics this weekend of a FINISHED project!

Digatunnel, I really like the finish on that lamp, don't you? We need pics please! Why did your husband call it a practice light? Mine is still sitting in the box and I'm wondering what we're going to do about that. Hmm ...
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 22, 2007
3:22 AM

Post #4004011

We spent ALL day today putting up the framing for the extension on the deck and for the ramp...I am sooo tired. We had to run tonight to go get more lumber.

My Milk Paint came in, so all I need is to get that cabinet outside to sand it, then take it upstairs to my work room (actually the blue spare room) and get it painted. I also need to put the furniture varnish on the end tables. The knobs I got look awesome with the red mahogany. If we could only get some rain...maybe late tomorrow and on Sun. Well, wait. Rain means I can't haul the cabinet outside to sand, but it does mean I can put the varnish on the end tables!! And my gosh do we need rain. I've never seen the compost and soil split open like it is right now. It's very weird looking.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 22, 2007
5:51 PM

Post #4005359

I'm pooped too. That ceiling is exhausting! I got one complete coat on it, FINALLY! But because of all the dust (I thought I had brushed most of it off), the paint started to get dry and "lift" in spots. Oh what a disaster. Anyhow, I'll work on those places, smoothing them out, then do a second coat. Luckily the flat paint allows for some imperfections. :)

I am surprised that my husband actually knocked a hole in the wall above our master shower. There is a soffit there and it is pointless. We want to raise the ceiling there. *I* want to pull out the stall and tile a slightly wider shower and add a nice glass door! We already added a walk in closet, so I think updating the rest of the master bathroom would be a really good idea. I want to finish in the kitchen and dining first though. My goal is to have a big family dinner the first week in December and have the house in tip top shape by then!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 23, 2007
2:35 AM

Post #4006923

You primed it first, correct? Please tell me you primed it! We used a shop vac on the walls when we did the skim coating to remove 99% of the dust.

I did get 1 coat of poly on my end tables. I thought it was furniture VARNISH, because it cleans up with Mineral Spirits. Imagine my surprise when I got it from the basement and it says it's furniture poly, not varnish. Wipe on poly. I did it and immediately left the room, so I have no clue what it looks like. We worked outside till 6PM on the deck. We've at least got the 4' by 17 something foot extension framed in and the 4' by 4' ramp top platform framed in. Tomorrow we continue on with putting the deck wood flooring down. Hopefully in the morning before we go outside, or after my husband leaves for work, I can get another coat on the end tables. Our carpenter, who's the brains behind the framing, will be back on Mon. My BIL came by today, I gave no reason, just told them to bring him over...lol. Boy was he (and his aid) surprised!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 23, 2007
3:35 PM

Post #4008166

Oh, Terry. No, I didn't prime. :-( I guess I just thought two coats of the cream paint color would do. I wasn't trying to hide stains or seal out odors, so I didn't think it was necessary. Explain to me why I should have so I'll know next time. Ugh. Anyhow, it looks pretty good now. I'll spot touch a few places and do a second coat.

Are you taking pics of your deck project?! Sounds like a wonderful addition!!!

Digatunnel, we want to see that new dining room light! I can't believe how pretty that bronzey finish is on the light and how PERFECTLY it would match our bedspread. I opened the top of the box, but have not taken it out. (since dh refuses to lose the ceiling fan). I am not sure what to do with it now. I guess I could send it back. I'd really rather talk him into it eventually. Don't know if that's gonna happen though. ;-{

Robin :-)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 24, 2007
3:32 AM

Post #4010494

Here's some reasons I found on the Devoe® site

INTERIOR

* Use on any new or bare surface to seal the surface
* Prevent smoke or water stains from consistently bleeding through to the surface
* Prevent grease and mildew stains from bleeding through
* Making a major color change
* Painting over a glossy surface
* Don't know when last painted; so topcoat will not be absorbed into the surface
* Ensures great adhesion of the topcoat which will promote:
* Greater color retention
* Greater wash and scrub resistance
* Makes for a more uniform attractive appearance of the topcoat
* Ensures better holdout if topcoat has a sheen
Mostly, for me, it's to seal the surface. You never put paint directly over drywall and joint compound...like in a new home. You always prime first, then paint.

Yes, taking pictures. What a difference just adding 4' to the depth makes! The length is 17' something, but at the east end is also another 4' by 4' where the ramp starts (so there it's actually an additional 8'). And then to have a railing that's going to look like our front porch is just going to make it all the better. And everybody's giving me different opinions on when you can stain. The rails I want to paint to match the porch, but the floor, since it's not covered like the porch, I want to stain. I hear next spring, I hear now, I hear in a month...grrrrrrr...painting I know I need to wait till next year and let it dry out. But the stain, I can't get anybody to agree. We're also waiting for a guy to give us an estimate for painting our 3 gables. Too high (3 stories) and my husband won't allow me up on a ladder...lol...
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

September 24, 2007
11:41 PM

Post #4013402

There's a story behind that ladder part. What did you do to get kicked off of it?

As for stain, I personally think if it is nice out you can stain. But then I'm not the expert in my house. My dad is. lol. I'll see what he says.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 25, 2007
3:34 AM

Post #4014314

LOL! Didn't get kicked off it, my foot slipped. I was sitting on my MIL's counter and turned to paint the other cabinet. When I did, I put my foot down to steady myself and help me turn. And my foot flew off, the counter is higher than my inseam, so I couldn't catch myself, so I went flying, sailing, sliding till I hit the fridge we'd moved into the middle of the room. Broke my ankle. Actually crushed the bone on one side, broke it in 3 places on the other side...anytime I get on a ladder, he gets nervous. You'd think I was clumsy or something!

What did dad say? Carpenter says to wait a week.
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

September 26, 2007
1:28 AM

Post #4017412

Ooops...forgot! Sorry!! lol. It's late but I will try to remember tomorrow.

You sailing off the ladder sounds like what I would do. lol
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 26, 2007
1:59 AM

Post #4017531

D-mail me the info when you get it. No use going off topic about my projects on Robin's thread ;)
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 26, 2007
2:00 AM

Post #4017543

I haven't been on this thread in weeks and weeks...but i saw some flourescent lighting in ecrane's kitchen...yeah...no old fashioned at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!! spiffy looking new kitchen...

I thought you girls would be through with the kitchen and dining room by now (LOL)...have to do a little poking fun at you...when you get through we will have to publish this dialog...this is too entertaining!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

September 26, 2007
2:18 AM

Post #4017624

For what it's worth, the fluorescent light in the kitchen came with the house, I hate it and would love to replace it with something else :-)
gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 26, 2007
2:40 AM

Post #4017703

I love it...just remodeled this old farmhouse a year ago and used them wherever i could...along with track lighting and the big ones that come down (just the opposite of recessed ones)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 26, 2007
3:40 AM

Post #4017892

What's the saying? There's no accounting for taste?? lol...poking fun at ya Gail, just having some fun! I wanted to point it out before, but you seemed a little irritated that I didn't like your suggestion of fluorescent lighting...but the link you gave waaaaay up there? Isn't for those long tube ick looking things, but for bulbs. I have fluorescent bulbs where they'll work, but otherwise, just regular ole bulbs. When we rehabbed this old farmhouse, I tried to find lights that looked period. No track lighting, no fluorescent lighting (except for a few bulbs in lamps)...because after all, in 1896, the lights in this house were gas. We had to cut those off or try and shove them up when we installed the new/old looking lights.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 26, 2007
1:27 PM

Post #4018723

Hey guys!

I don't mind if the topic strays. ;-) Yes, it seems I should have a LOT more done now, but the main things slowing me down are money and taking care of 2 kiddos 24/7. Husband was just gone for 4 days and left again this morning for 4 more days. Sigh...

I am irritated at myself over the priming thing on the ceiling. I had even BOUGHT the primer, but just kind of ended up skipping it in my haste, without even really thinking. (I guess kind of like skipping the warm-up when you're exercising. lol!) Anyhow, when I decided to go with a color instead of white I guess is when I got sidetracked. I chose a very light cream, on the same color card as my living room wall color. I am thinking I need to add some crown molding to make the seam between the wall and ceiling really look nice. However, there is an edge which I don't know what to do with. I posted a pic of it way above when I was asking what to do about the uneven texture. It just kind of ends and the edge of the molding would be visible from the side. In that case, do you add one of those "corbels"? Not sure what to do about that...

I've attached a pic of the area in question below. (Ignore the spot that still remains to be filled in and painted. There was a wall bracket I couldn't remove at first.)

Now I want to get the chairs done and the living room painted. I will let you in on something. I knew this would happen, so I'm not terribly surprised, but...I'm having second thoughts about the red on the kitchen cabinets. Anyone wanna coach me through it? lol! I posted the pics on the Rate My Space and everyone likes the white and they say "definitely" not the red. I have only had Terry and my best friend vote for the red. I emailed my best friend pics of the two "inspiration rooms" and she said that helped her visualize what I had in mind and thought it would look very modern. She thought the cream looked very country with the green wall. I know the wall might be nicer in a terracotta or gold or red, but I have to tie in the computer counter. Anyhow, that's where I'm at. I'm still thinking I guess. I suppose if I went with the white, I could do a bold counter and flooring, maybe some slate or something. Sorry to drone on and on, but the whole thing is really aggravating. I don't want to spend the time to paint them and then regret it, so I'm taking lots of different things into consideration, like resale, etc. Also, because we are so broke as of right now, it is not realistic to think that we are getting new appliances, countertop and sink anytime soon, but maybe in the next year. Sigh...

So, if anyone has specific suggestions re: molding, etc., I'd love to hear your ideas!!

Thanks, everyone!
Robin ;-)

PS Pepper, did you ever vote on the cab color? ;)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 26, 2007
2:14 PM

Post #4018830

Y'all keep having fun...looks like fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

September 26, 2007
6:17 PM

Post #4019719

Gessiegail - you're a stinker! (but I know what 'cha mean!)

Girl you are sounding tired! We've all been there!

Now's a good time to go thru each room and take pics of all the work you've done. The bathroom walls, the cabinet, the scraped ceilings the kitchen, the dining room, etc... all you've done. You wouldn't believe how much work you've already accomplished and how good it looks! Honestly, most people haven't done half the work you've already finished! Any color you choose now will look good. If you're undicided, go with the light color. If you change it later on, it's easier to go over light than dark. When you paint, it really does go much faster than you think. Time it. So if you want to do it again later in a darker color, you probably won't have to primer and the painting is pretty quick!

gessiegail
Taft, TX
(Zone 9a)

September 26, 2007
10:53 PM

Post #4020673

I am verrrrrrrrrrrry impressed with what you have accomplished and stuck with it...long before now I would have been in a heap on the floor crying for help...and I mean that (LOL)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 27, 2007
12:31 AM

Post #4021037

Robin, your best friend knows you better than anyone on here. I based the color of red on the exact same things as your best friend told you. The white or the cream, screams country to me. I don't care about the color of the wall, it's still country. The photos you showed of somebody's kitchen done in white, looked very country to me. The red isn't country. It's sophisticated and it's not "what everybody in the neighborhood" does. It's different. Based on everything you've said about what you want, red is the way to go.

You have done a tremendous amount of work already and you should be very very proud of yourself! I don't think anybody wants to know all that I've done in this old house. I started to tell some cousins recently at a family reunion and they told me I was making them tired! lol...and I'm not done yet! Anybody wanna come help fix those plaster walls in the back staircase area? Anybody?? lol...

For that ceiling area you're showing now, I'd paint and get all that done and then step back and see how it looks. You might be surprised that it's not a big deal then. Personally, I don't like gingerbread or corbels and or anything that shouldn't be in a modern house. That's just adding in a more countrified look to me. That is crown molding, isn't it? Isn't most crown molding painted? Any house I've ever been in that had crown molding, was painted the same color as the trim or I've seen them do it in the ceiling color.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

September 27, 2007
2:54 PM

Post #4023164

Thanks guys, really, thank you! I am sort of tired, because I guess I get bored with the repetition of a job. It seems that because I'm no pro, I end up going over and over the same area retouching and making it just right. That's where I'm at with the ceiling. lol

Terry, I thought that same exact thing about the red. That my best friend knows me well and when I showed her the inspiration rooms, she said she could picture it. I had another good friend come over last night and she concluded that both colors woud look nice, but the cream is the safer way to go and *IF* the red came out right, it would be the better color. She said it depends on how it ends up looking (with the thinned paint idea) and I agree. I am still considering going with the white though, with the number one reason being that my husband does not support the red at all. With smaller things I generally tell him to live with it, but I'm afraid to do that with this. I really want him to like the end product. Sigh...

Ok, I'm filling up my coffee cup and going to get to work! Thank you very much for ALL the input! I truly appreciate it!!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

September 27, 2007
11:48 PM

Post #4024918

Robin, there has been many times when I say I'm painting something a certain color and my husband looks at me like I grew another head. Then I do it, or sometimes we do it, and he thinks it's pretty neat in the end. So anymore, after 26 yrs of marriage, he no longer doubts any thing I want to do. You know the ceiling of the front porch? I wanted it Hale Navy? He looked at me and told me to go get the paint. Now that it's done and even the mailman tells him it looks awesome? He's the first one to tell them it was me. My idea.

My best advise? You're going to have to prime if you go with a cream. Prime covers up everything. Test out the red, thinned out the way you think it'll look best. I would get a scrap piece of lumber and try and stain it similar. You're never going to match it, so don't bother. Then try the red mixed with various amounts of water to get the look you're going for. Then just do one door when you've got the color you want. If it's terrible and neither you or your husband can live with it, then prime it and paint it in the cream. To start, I would use equal parts of paint to water. You might also like it better if the bases were a solid color of the red and the doors were the thinned out. That's easy to do too. Just take another scrap and paint it and hold it up with the thinned out sample. I way over think a lot of things, but painting is just something I've never over thought. I know the look I'm going for and I do it. I understand you're unsure. I really get that. Please know and understand though, that on just one door, it's going to have to be primed if you go with the cream, so doing a sample isn't going to hurt or slow you down at all. It's helping you get where you want to be. I hope this all makes sense.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 1, 2007
2:28 AM

Post #4035473

Terry,

Of course that makes sense, and I was really considering doing just that. I may go so far as to attach the knobs I would use for each color and go ahead and live with them for a bit. lol

Tonight I got the living room painted. Phew! Looks nice and warm. :)

More later!! I'm pooped. lol!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 1, 2007
2:51 AM

Post #4035551

Our deck extension and ramp are almost done too. We've only got the side rails on the ramp to go. We got the deck railings, almost like the front porch done. It's looking good! Here's part of it, showing the railings on the deck part. We got farther than this picture shows, but it was after dark and I didn't have time today to get a picture of it...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 1, 2007
5:26 PM

Post #4037126

Beautiful, Terry!

I love it, especially the ramp!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 1, 2007
11:43 PM

Post #4038425

It's as done as it can be for right now. Sometime soon, I have this stuff you put on new pressure treated wood to help the drying process slow down. Then, according to the can, I have to wait a year before I can stain or paint. The rails will be painted just like the front porch, the floor is the only thing that will be stained.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 1, 2007
11:46 PM

Post #4038432

Here's from further back, but the hand railing doesn't have spindles in place in this picture.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 2, 2007
1:20 AM

Post #4038845

Looks great terry!! Can't wait to see it finished.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 2, 2007
2:15 AM

Post #4039089

It's amazing how much 4' by 17 something feet makes a difference just on the deck alone! Oh..and it's now NOT a deck, it's our back PORCH! This is, after all, a 111 yr old house! I'm afraid it's going to be a year before I can paint. Not sure on the staining yet. Somebody I know was going to ask their dad, but I still haven't heard a word. Is it a week? Two weeks? A month? 6 months? A year? I've heard 'em all!

The new railing with the spindles going around the entire porch, makes such a difference, it's totally unreal.
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 2, 2007
11:05 AM

Post #4039781

LOL. Sorry, have been really busy and keep forgetting. One of my coworkers is out sick so I have been doing his job and mine as much as I can.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 2, 2007
2:39 PM

Post #4040410

Ok, guys, I got some paint and stain options on a cabinet.

VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE!! ;-)

PS Please ignore my messy house in the background.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 2, 2007
2:41 PM

Post #4040416

I like #6
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 2, 2007
2:43 PM

Post #4040423

and by the fireplace...

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 2, 2007
3:37 PM

Post #4040676

Judging by those, which are a little hard to see, I'd pick #6 also. Is this stain with paint over it? Or are you thinking of trying to re-stain the current cabinets instead of painting? I'm confused.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 2, 2007
4:06 PM

Post #4040794

Thanks for your vote, Ecrane!

Terry, I took the back of one of our master bathroom cabinets, (which I will likely paint cream later on), and sanded and added small patches of all the different options. Some are paint, some are stain. :-)

I know they're a bit hard to see. It's the best I could do with the camera.

THANKS!
Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 3, 2007
7:52 PM

Post #4045276

That's it, I'm painting the cabinets cream.

I got my sander and I'm practicing on the backs of our bathroom cabinets. I can't get the watered down #6 to not spread and look streaky. I mixed two stains together and like the tone, but again, I'm not getting away from the prominent wood grain and I'm not lightening the kitchen. I have decided I will do cream in the kitchen and maybe paint out the alcove above the dining room light the same color. I am undecided about the mantle, but it might get it too. ;-) I will try the reddish brown stain that husband liked on our bathroom cabinets. That is more of a "shared" space between man and woman and the kitchen is more of a woman's place. (God, did I just say that?! You know what I mean...) I imagine the kitchen being more important to female potential buyers than males, but the master bedroom, (the last room they'll see) should be a wow factor for BOTH.

Done. I'm not going back! lol! Now I can try and talk my husband into cherry wood laminate flooring!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 3, 2007
10:47 PM

Post #4045876

Too much water? It's going to take more than 1 coat to achieve the look you're after. I also think the Milk Paint is more what you're looking for. It too takes more than 1 coat to get the desired effect. And you have to make sure the first coat is dry before you put on a second. BUT if you want to go with creme, then go for it.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 3, 2007
10:54 PM

Post #4045901

I'm still voting for color #6, just give it a couple coats. I know I originally voted for the cream, but I was envisioning a creamier color than what your samples are, maybe it's just the lighting or the way it shows up in the picture but they look awfully white to me rather than cream.

You might try getting a clear glaze instead of water and mixing that into color #6, that should give you the more transparent look you want, but it'll spread much nicer. Of course it's more expensive, but I've never had good luck thinning paint with water to create an effect like that, the clear glaze works much better.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 4, 2007
2:57 AM

Post #4046837

Hmm... that's an idea. The clear glaze. Sigh...

Thanks, everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 4, 2007
3:15 AM

Post #4046893

Yes, glaze will work. I've used both. On wood, I've always thinned with water and had no problem. Remember when pickling was really in? That's how you did it. If you used oil based paint, you mixed it with mineral spirits, water based paint, mix with water. Remember to stir well and often.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 4, 2007
4:38 AM

Post #4047062

I'm thinking that I will do the half wall and the pantry red and the cabinets cream.

How would that look?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 4, 2007
1:51 PM

Post #4047673

Does anyone recommend a particular clear glaze product or brand name? I do have soem brown glaze that I bought from Sherwin Williams. I could try there. When I originally went to Lowe's and asked for help, the woman had no idea what I was looking for and just showed me a bunch of different faux effect products, none of which seemed to be what I was looking for. Thanks! I plan to get started this weekend!! It's about time, huh? lol

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 4, 2007
3:24 PM

Post #4048011

The glaze I've usually bought is shelved with the faux painting stuff--that's where it's used a lot. I think I got Valspar brand from Lowes, but the last time I used it was several years ago so I could be remembering the brand wrong. I do know I got it from Lowes from the faux painting section though. There'll be all sorts of colored glazes which you can use on their own if you like the color, but there's also a clear one and you can mix that with paint to make your own color.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 4, 2007
4:32 PM

Post #4048285

Thanks, ecrane. That makes sense and I had a feeling I was in the right area, but like I said, the "associate" was totally clueless about what I was going for and the selection was really limited. (She explained something about just moving stuff or eliminating some product, I don't know.) I'll try again and maybe try Sherwin-Williams as well. Thanks so much. :)
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 4, 2007
4:33 PM

Post #4048288

Forgot to ask, what do you think of the cream on cabs and red in the dining area half wall and pantry? Honesty is fine, I can handle it. :)
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 4, 2007
6:08 PM

Post #4048629

Sounds good to me--at my old house I had red walls and cream cabinets, and I'm halfway to having that at my new house too (walls are done, but I haven't gotten around to the cabinets yet). Your color is more of a wine color and I have more of a true red, but I think it'll still look good. Just for my own personal preference on the cabinets I would go with something a little creamier colored than yours--it looks really white to me in your pictures although that might just be the lighting. That's really a personal preference thing though, I don't like really bright white
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 4, 2007
6:21 PM

Post #4048674

This is the best way I can think of to achieve a happy medium! Remember, my original goal was to LIGHTEN the kitchen. Although I did just browse a Homebuilder's Assoc. publication and EVERY SINGLE kitchen in the whole mag had dark wood cabs. On HGTV's Rate My Space site, the majority of the top rated kitchens are cream.

Here's a fantastic one:
http://ratemyspace.hgtv.com/SNC/ViewItem.aspx?pguid=6db6be3f-1720-4ba3-a081-999042c09b6b&itemguid=80d8e1cc-9f41-42ff-b780-147f81f73907

Of course, comparing this to me space is utterly ridiculous, but I am drawn to certain cream colored cabinets, even if they do qualify technically as country. I guess if that's country, I like it! lol! I also LOVE the really rich cherry red cabinets though.

Btw, here is my cream color, "Latte":
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124425&lineid=830&cbn=2VVK-XYXM-CPN1

I agree though, in the sample pic, it looked quite stark and nearly white. Weird. I glazed some last night and husband liked it, so maybe that's how it'll turn out.

I have looked up many of the back episodes of Designed to Sell where they paint out kitchen cabs and apparently "Swiss Coffee" is popular, which looks just barely off white to me. A bit lighter than my Latte.
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124479&lineid=701&cbn=XTH9-HF69-DTCW

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 4, 2007
11:48 PM

Post #4049723

In your rate this space link kitchen, no the kitchen doesn't look country, but it looks like it's in an old house, or if not an old house, one that was made to have the look of being old. Notice the dentil and crown molding and the wainscoting in it. The cabinets also have an antique glaze on them. If you're drawn to creme colored cabinets, then I'd say that's what you should do. Sherwin Williams has the glaze that you add to paint, don't remember the brand, I used it for walls.

FWIW, before we bought the house we did in TN, we looked at a house that was just way too small, even for 3 people. The rooms were tiny, the kitchen was no exception. The cabinets were cherry. The red cherry, just like my bedroom furniture, which I happen to love. The kitchen wasn't dark at all. Again, it had plenty of lights in it, the counters were a lighter color with flecks of red in it and the flooring was light oak hardwood. The corner cabinet had frosted glass in it, with a light in it. The kitchen was so small there was no place for a table, and there was no dining room. I'm guessing it was that kitchen that sold it to somebody.
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 5, 2007
4:19 AM

Post #4050597

No Swiss Coffee!!!! Every apartment in Los Angeles was painted Swiss Coffee! It is a lifeless white. Your Latte is so much better!
I also think that one kitchen on rate my space is fantastic. I think your kitchen is going to look very cheerful!
I tend not to like that crackle finish. I think it kinda' looks like it, well... like it needs to be painted! But, it is very popular and a lot of people see it differently.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 5, 2007
5:08 AM

Post #4050661

What crackle? I'm not seeing anything with crackle?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 5, 2007
5:17 PM

Post #4051881

Digatunnel, you mean that glazing technique?

I have tried rubbing on a stain and wiping immediately, and I still think it just kinda looks dingy. I can't decide.

I'm either doing Latte or MAYBE Benjamin Moore's Navajo White, since I've seen it recommended a lot. However, it just looks a tad darker than the Latte and I am not sure where I would buy BM around here. I plan on shopping a bit this w/e.

So noone thinks the red AND cream would be weird or broken up?

I can't ask my husband anymore. I've driven him crazy. lol
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 5, 2007
10:21 PM

Post #4052679

terryr - Pickling. I'm pretty sure that's what I'm thinking. If not, forget it. It doesn't matter.

robin_joey - I always thought that Navajo White was very nice. Kind of a soft white. Very nice. Right now my entire house is Antique White. It's awful! The contractor needed a color right away so we picked something very neutral. Now I can't wait to get rid of it. When people ask me what color my house is done in, I say "putty." Living room - putty. Dining room - putty. Bedrooms - putty. UGH! Anyway, my point is: do either a soft white or a color. Be careful of the putties!

My DH and I are going on a drive around Calif. this week for vacation - looking for the perfect pancake. When we get back, I'm back to doing our house. I will try to figure out how to post pics of my kitchen, (new computer, new camera...no time)
I can't wait to log on next week and see the update on your kitchen!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 6, 2007
1:08 AM

Post #4053144

Oh my, an $80 trip to Lowe's and I've just packed the kids and the hubby off to grandma's! I'm out of coffee though! lol! Better get busy!!!!!!!!!

I'm doing Latte with a Mocha glaze. ;-) Hope it comes out well!!

PLEASE send any glazing/painting tips my way!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 6, 2007
3:52 AM

Post #4053617

diga, crackle is a different technique than glazing. Crackle is when you apply something that dries clear over a base coat, then you apply another coat of whatever color you've chosen. Black is what I've seen as the base coat mostly. Anyway, when you put the top coat on, as it's drying, it "cracks", hence the name crackle. Showing the undercoat. Glazing is 2 different things that I know of. 1 is to add it to paint to thin it down to work with it better, the second is what Robin is going to do after she's painted her cabinets. The 1 you add to paint is generally clear, the other kind, like Robin will use, is tinted.

Paint your cabinets with either a brush or a sprayer. Let dry totally. When the paint is well dried, apply your glaze with a brush, making sure to get it in all the cracks and crevices. Take an old t-shirt and wipe it off. Leaving the majority of it in the cracks or grooves. It's like antiquing? Have you ever painted resin pieces or done any ceramic pieces? Taken any classes? It's easy, you're basically "dirtying" up the piece. You'll need to experiment to see how much of the glaze you want to leave. I have never glazed a piece of furniture or cabinets, but I've antiqued plenty of resin pieces or ceramic ones.

I didn't know BM had Navajo White. I know SW does. As for the red and the cream, did I miss something? I thought the walls were being repainted red.

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 6, 2007
4:21 AM

Post #4053667

LOL... I love this thread!! Oh the agony of making a decision and ALL that work!! I can't wait to see what you come up with ultimately. My husband and I are going to have to go thru that same process. He's in construction and I'm more of an artistic type. I don't want to put a lot of money into this house, it will only "top out" at a certain price no matter WHAT we do with it! So why do certain up grades to it, that's my thinking!

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 6, 2007
4:31 AM

Post #4053682

Hey there,

No, I never thought of the walls red. They're sage green and will stay that way (for now at least - if I get major things like a new countertop, I may consider changing it.) The half wall underneath the kitchen bar is where I want to try the "cherry look" red, plus the pantry in the hall and maybe the computer counter cabinets.

Terry, I keep hearing about "sealing" the glaze, sanding then reapplying. Is this the poly acrylic phase? There were some specific "top coat" products right next to the Valspar glaze I bought. Wonder what it's like... As I've said before, wish you were my neighbor, I'd feed you and beg you to coach me through! lol!

Oh and you're probably right, Navajo White is probably SW. I hope my Latte works out nicely. :)

Psych, it's funny because anyone who knows me knows that I can be decisive on CERTAIN things, but other things, I labor and poll friends & family & go over and over and over it!! I am not too bad when ordering in a restaurant, but my fave plates are soup and salad, sampler platters, and of course, a good buffet! That way, I don't have to decide on one thing! I love VARIETY!

Now, while I get started, tell me what you think I should do in terms of countertop/sink/backsplash/hardware/flooring! EEEK!

Well, I'm off, Lord, keep your fingers crossed for me!!

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 6, 2007
1:53 PM

Post #4054303

Robin, I would think the red would look good. You see them mixing up colors all the time. I believe that last kitchen you showed on rate my space had the cream with glaze and then either dark green or black, I couldn't tell from my monitor. What did you decide on your table? Are you painting the legs and bottoms of the chairs the red? Or, go back to the cream on them too? Staining the seats? I thought you'd said something about that too. If you decide to at least stain the seats in a red mahogany, I'm thinking that perhaps just do that bar area in the red and to the other cabinets in the cream. I think you'll know when you do it as to how much or how far you should go.

Sealing is the top coat, which is the polycrylic. Polycrylic stands up to washing down your cabinets and will protect if you fry and grease splatters and you need to wash that off. The best part is that it goes on clear and stays clear, unlike varnish or shellac. Those get dark with age. I'm not familiar with lacquer or using it, so I'm not sure about it.

IF I ever did a ceiling in white, it was always the Navajo white, so I hope your Latte is more of an off white than Navajo. I wasn't thrilled with the Navajo, but then we all know Terry doesn't really like white. Unless it the toilet or the sink...appliances are good in white too.

Let's leave your countertop as it is, until you've painted the cabinets and put up your new hardware.

With the cream cabinets, you always do a flooring like this
http://www.ifloor.com/item_385595/laminate-flooring/pergo/everyday-7mm/dark-cherry.html
or this one which doesn't look too cherry on my monitor
http://www.ifloor.com/item_385637/laminate-flooring/pergo/accolade-8mm/bedford-cherry.html
Or this one
http://www.ifloor.com/item_372723/laminate-flooring/pergo/select-click-together-planks/prarie-red-pine.html
Home Depot and Lowe's has the laminate hardwood look floors. They float, so they're pretty easy to put down. Just remove your fridge and stove and I'd remove the dishwasher (you don't have to), you don't have to remove any cabinets whatsoever.

And I wouldn't just coach you, I'd be right there doing it to show you how it's done. 4 hands work faster than just 2 anyway ☺

Oh, I just went back up and I knew you'd said something about stain and it being dingy. It dries flat, It never looks really good until you put a sealer on it. That brightens it up. Think of a deck. Dried out wood, looking sad, then you clean it and apply a wood protector? Suddenly the wood seems richer and prettier. That's what staining and then putting on the topcoat looks like. To get your stain darker, you leave it longer. Then use long strokes with a clean t-shirt to remove excess and remove any streaks you might have. If you want it darker still, just let the first layer dry thoroughly and apply another. Just remember that when you stain, you need a bare wood item. It can't have any kind of sealer/topcoat on it at all. The stain is absorbed into the wood, so the sealer blocks it from penetrating properly. It also doesn't dry right if the topcoat isn't totally removed.

We're erecting a fence now. I had to have my carpenter rip (split) the 2x4x12, then cut into 4 equal lengths, then mitre one top of each, so it looks like a stake, then turn that piece sideways on the angle, and rip it again. So you end up with the piece of wood looking like a triangle when you look at it from the top. You can also see it just looking at it. Looks pretty cool. I don't have a table saw, so my carpenter isn't to thrilled with ripping and cutting all these 2x4's for me...lol. Somebody soon is going to claim I have ADD, as I've got 3 projects, with a 4th one waiting! I'm just taking advantage of the nice fall weather. Well, it was nice, today and tomorrow it's supposed to be 90. Or above. That isn't fall! I need to get the mud tracked onto the new portion of the deck and the ramp cleaned off, then apply this product that's supposed to slow down the drying process.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 6, 2007
4:06 PM

Post #4054629

Terry,

THANK YOU! I love your input! I wish I could just give you a big hug. You've been such a nice person to muddle through this with! And ecrane, digatunnel, pepper and others!!

I LOVE LOVE LOVE the first flooring, and I would be ecstatic if we replaced our dingy carpet in living/dining/hall with this, but I don't know how realistic that is right away. Just to avoid the "laminate in a wet area" issue, I thought maybe doing a tile (something similar to the look of the vinyl tile in the foyer) in the kitchen. Lay it on a diagonal? What do you think? Would that just break up the area more?

For the counters, look at this awesome tile job. Using 1" tile border, they eliminated the need for bullnose edging. Genius! And gorgeous! Check out the before pics. (Sorry if I already posted this, couldn't remember.)

http://ratemyspace.hgtv.com/SNC/ViewItem.aspx?pguid=6db6be3f-1720-4ba3-a081-999042c09b6b&itemguid=c453d858-915b-4253-b602-03e766ea9b29

As for the table, I have only done 1 chair so far and then decided to wait until I bought the sander. I used Pebble Mosaic, but it is too green. I bought glossy black to do instead, but haven't tackled it yet. I don't know for sure what to do with the top and the seats. I really worry that I will put something on there that will scratch and chip and look like crap in a year or so. (You should have seen my mother-in-law's eyes bug out when I talked about "painting" the top.) So you are recommending sanding REALLY well, to remove the varnish or whatever is on it now and then staining? Then topping with polycrylic? I bought Klean-Strip deglosser last night. Should I start with that, then sand with medium, then sand with fine??

How do you recommend I clean the kitchen cabinets? I have read in the glazing process any grease or dirt that is left behind can cause the glaze to not adhere and make a yukky problem spot. When I used the TSP before, I guess it worked, but it just kind of seemed like water. Should I also use some mineral spirits or ammonia on the visibly greasy grungy portions?

Ok, here's my last question (for now...). WHAT is the best way to lay out this project?? I have cleared my living room floor and was going to lay down a plasticy dropcloth covered by a large old sheet. I want to work inside because our garage is so hot and bugs/kitty hair/dust sometimes got into my finished product. Do I elevate each piece somehow or just paint flat on the ground? I had problems last time with waiting for the front to dry, then flipping and setting them up on a large can or small box or something to paint the reverse. I scratched the surface a few times this way. Am I missing an obvious trick here? Thanks for any advice on making an assembly line outta this. My husband is gone till Monday night and I'm starting with the lower cabinets because when the kids return, those are the ones they'll be able to get their hands on.

As of today, I got in there and tackled the finishing touches on my botched ceiling job. Now that I have the palm sander, it's less scrubbing by hand and getting dust in my eyes. ;-) I like the color ok. It is Valspar's Churchill Hotel Ecru and is the lightest shade on the card with my living room wall color, Warm Buff.

OK, enough yakking! I'm OFF! Thanks SOOOO much everyone!

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 6, 2007
4:13 PM

Post #4054641

Oh! One last thing! I went and bought Zinnser primer last night, but I didn't see the BIN, so I bought BullsEye 123. The BIN advertised that it was excellent for cabinets because it dries so quickly. The 123 seems like the next best. Is this a good product for me to use on the cabinets? This is what the woman who redid the cabinets in the kitchen link I just added used. She didn't state which type however. Also, what is the best brush to use? I want that ultra smooth surface because I don't want the glaze to settle in brush marks, but rather the wood grain. I bought a decent synthetic bristle brush, but I wonder if a foam would work well for that purpose as well.

I'm a bit worried about glazing my particular cabinets because I have no raised panels. (!) Might make the whole thing look silly. I guess I'll find out!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 6, 2007
11:01 PM

Post #4055643

Are you using enough TSP? If you're using bare hands (like I seem to always do), you can feel the softness in it, don't know really what that is, but it sure makes my hands feel soft. I don't measure, I just pour in the bucket and add hot water. There's some sort of cabinet de-greaser type product out there, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was called. They have many products, clean the cupboards, clean stainless steel, clean your Formica and a host of others. I used that down in AR at a house my parents bought and the PO must of loved her frying. Grease was everywhere. Just make sure you rinse well. I've also used vinegar and water. That might also work. I'm not sure at this point, since you're painting them, that it makes much difference what you use. Just don't use too much or get it too wet. That wouldn't be good.

You need to read your can of de-glosser. I'm betting that it's for painted surfaces and not anything for varnish, shellac, lacquer, etc. I looked high and low for one, I just needed to dull a varnished surface, but all they had was for painted surface. So please read the can and make sure it's for a top coat. And then take it back ;) You'll probably need to use some sort of a stripper. Follow the directions the stripper you buy says for doing the final cleaning of it. And let it dry. When it dries or is drying, you'll be able to see if there's still some finish on it or not. And then yes, sand baby sand. I'd probably start with at least a 100 grit and see how that goes. If it doesn't work well and you've still got product on there, you can either put more stripper on it, or go to a 60 grit. And then just keep using finer and finer. I usually only use 150 as my finest. I know some people think it needs to be 220 or some people use steel wool. I've only used steel wool to work my stripper. And remember, whatever it is that you're painting or staining, the product must be dry. It won't work if it's still somewhat wet. Same for sanding.

Your glaze is going over primer and then at least 2 coats of paint. I don't see how the glaze wouldn't adhere. Yours have that routered out part, so the glaze will settle in there. At your link, the lady talks about just mixing up various stains she had and not using a glaze product. It all will achieve the same effect, but bravo to her for using up those excess cans of stains...lol.

For your table and chairs, whether you decide to paint or you decide to stain (or both), remember to use the final coat...aka varnish, shellac, lacquer. I've not done a table that we eat at, so on that, I would definitely ask somebody who knows what to use for sure. Do you have a furniture re-finisher in your area? I'm sure you do. Give him/her a call and ask him/her what s/he'd suggest using as your final coat for the table and the chairs.

We had the floating laminate in our basement in TN. It was put over concrete. There was a moisture barrier that they laid down first, but concrete really wicks up moisture. There was never any problem. My girlfriend put it in her kitchen and really loves it. If there's a door, like a bedroom or bathroom door, I don't mind the flooring being different. But in open areas, to me, the flooring looks best when it's either the same, or like if you have tile in the entry, the rest in laminate would look awesome. Make sense?

I have never had luck using a foam anything. I get the orange peely look. And tons of bubbles. I prefer the brushes by Purdy. They have a variety and I believe HD carries them also. Look for the one that tells you to use it for water based paints. I've always used the Zinsser oil (or shellac based) primer, so I'm not sure about the 123. I believe that's the water based one? The problem with oil based is it stinks to high heaven, but boy does it cover. The water based that I've used, didn't cover, the stains or whatever came right thru. SW sold me the water based, then they gave me the oil based since I wasted my time with the water based. I was doing a rental house that had water damage and the ceilings had the tell tale yellow water mark. Water based primer allowed the yellow to bleed thru. So I just don't know what to say about what you bought. Doing it inside, if you use oil, you need adequate ventilation. And lots of it! My husband gets really dizzy using it...it doesn't bother me. Go figure. Just remember when painting, work wet to dry and your final stroke is from top to bottom or vise versa, whichever works for you. Same as with your polycrylic.

Use anything to raise them up. And use wax paper between the whatever and the cabinet door. And make sure, before you flip it over, that the paint is really good and dry. I would work from back to front. Back first, let dry, flip and do front, let dry, flip again with second coat of paint to back, let dry, flip and finish with your second coat on the front. For the polycrylic, do all the coats on the back first, allow to dry, then flip and do the front. Baby food jars? Same size? Smooth top? 1 in each corner. Or if they balance all right, 1 middle top and 1 middle bottom. Anything that has a smooth top to it. Little pieces of wood, votive candles holders upside down...I'm trying to think of all the different things I've used! Just anything to raise them up. That way, if you happen to drip on a side, top or bottom, you can easily brush it smooth. How about drinking glasses turned upside down?

Another friend had the tiled counters. She hated it. She broke I-don't-know-how-many tiles by dropping something onto the counter. I like the tiled back splash, but I'm just not sure about the tiled counter. I have so much trouble keeping the grout clean in the tiled floors, I just don't think I'd like it on a counter. Remember now though, just because I don't like it doesn't mean you won't. Many people have them and love them.

Hmmm...you just like the color "o.k."? You might try going down (darker) another shade or 2 to get closer to the actual wall color, if you don't want to use the wall color. Or, learn to like it better...lol.

Thank you for the hug! I've been slopping the Rainguard onto the deck all day and I'm hungry! I think hubby needs to take me out for supper...wouldn't you agree?? ☺
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 7, 2007
4:25 PM

Post #4057662

I'm typing with rubber gloves on b/c I'm still cleaning up some of the cabs. lol

I started with the pantry doors b/c I wanted to see what the red looked like. I LOVE it! BUT, I am still thinking of doing cream cabs in the kitchen, b/c this gives me the best of both worlds. What do you think?

Here's another beautiful kitchen with lighter cabs:

/albums/v254/stephs_mail@cox.net/House/

Would love opinions on where you would stop and start the red and cream. :)

More later!

Robin :-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 7, 2007
4:31 PM

Post #4057675

Here's an update pic! I keep seeing it and saying WOW! It disguises the knocked around wood so well. Wouldn't a dark glaze look good?

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 7, 2007
4:35 PM

Post #4057681

Robin, how about getting more of a best of both worlds? How about doing all the larger cabinets, floor and wall, in cream. Do the red on the shorter one, like above the micro. Do the back of the bottoms that show over in the dining area, or whatever the wood is below in the red. You want to end the red and start the cream where the cabinet itself ends. You can see where they're put together, that's your starting and stopping point. I'm going to post this and go back up and look to see how many short cabinets you have...which I really don't think matters. I think just doing one would look pretty darned good. Do you have a putty knife? You should since you did some skim coats...try to use that, if you can get in the crack between the cabs, instead of taping. Or is you have a steady hand, like mine are, then do it freehand.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 7, 2007
4:39 PM

Post #4057689

O.k. you posted again...lol...I would use the glaze on the red, but I'd be specific about where it went. Like just in the routered out part on the front of the doors. The rest of the cabinet parts, I'm thinking I'd leave as they are. Unless...hmmm...using the t-shirt that you're wiping off with, just the little residual that's left on it, go over ever so lightly on the rest of the cabinets. It's one of those you won't know what it looks like till you try.

AND, it looks FANTASTIC!! Keep up the good work!!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 7, 2007
4:56 PM

Post #4057720

Thanks, Terry!

I was up all night and only slept a couple hours, so my brain is probably only half functioning. Tell me again where you'd start and stop please? :)

Also, should I do hardware on the pantry? (woops, typed panty at first! LOL! Told you I'm tired!!)

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 7, 2007
5:21 PM

Post #4057789

You know each cabinet is individual? Each one was hung separately or put on the floor and screwed in separately? That's where you want to start one color and stop the other. There's an edge beside the door that goes over to the next edge of the next cabinet. You see a "crack", meaning where the next cabinet starts. Borrowing a photo of yours for a minute, see where I drew the red lines? You can especially tell when a short cabinet is next to a long cabinet. There's a crack right there where the two are usually screwed together.

Well shoot, I hope you can see where I drew. It looks like the copyright is going to over top of it.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 7, 2007
5:33 PM

Post #4057821

Just a thought... you might consider painting all the "background" of the cabinets in the creamy color but all the drawer fronts and cabinet fronts with the red. I don't remember if you changed your mind or not, but if you go with glass fronts on a free, the trim that holds the glass in would also be red.

I need some updated pictures, with current walls etc. Help me out here. The thread is LONG... or heck ... a NEW thread as you move on? This baby is LONG.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 7, 2007
5:33 PM

Post #4057822

Thanks for the feedback, Terry! I appreciate it!!

Actually, the seam is kind of in a weird placement. It is almost under the hardware of the neighboring cabinet and is not centered.

I will think about it some more. I would like the view when you walk in to be the light cabinets, which I may do to the mantel and MAYBE even the weird octogonal alcove above dining room. But the red would show up on the half wall and once you head down the hall. Also, I am probably leaning towards doing the red somewhere on our table and chairs. (Still not sure about what I need to do to make it a durable eating surface...))
Again, husband does not want the red at all, says he doesn't think it'll turn out right. I wonder what he'll think now that I've done a few, b/c I love them!

Ok, lunch break is over! Back to work!!

Thanks!!

Robin ;-D

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 7, 2007
5:37 PM

Post #4057834

One way you could "try out the color" idea is paint some poster board the cream and slide it between the cabinet fronts. that would give you some idea of what the cream bodies with red doors would look like.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 7, 2007
5:42 PM

Post #4057844

That didn't work, now did it! Just stand in the kitchen and look at where the 2 cabinets are put together. There isn't a gap really, just a slight crack to show each cabinet is individual.

Oh jeepers. After enlarging your photo, are the hinges on the cabinet framing of the cabinet beside it? Now I think I got the picture showing where a cabs end and the next one begins. Hard to draw with a mouse!

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 7, 2007
5:48 PM

Post #4057870

Yes, with your hardware being there, it makes it difficult. I know the cream base and red doors wouldn't look right to me. How about doing the bottom, where the sink is, in red? It won't show up till somebody walks in the room and will be an unexpected surprise. Like some people do an island in a totally different color, why not just do the front and the back of the cabinets? The back showing into the dining area and in the kitchen, the front of the cabinets, under the sink and whatever other cabinets are there. How would that look?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 7, 2007
5:59 PM

Post #4057895

Hmm...
that's a good idea, Terry. :)

What would you do with the table and chairs? I was just thinking that half wall might be neat black? What to do with the computer counter? Remember, green/black formica there!! That's why I was thinking black, but then I'm getting lots of colors going on and not enough of this beautiful cherry look!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 7, 2007
11:52 PM

Post #4058867

Well, if it was me...lol...I'd do the half wall in the cherry and I'd do the table and chair legs in black, the seats and the top, I'd stain in red mahogany (or cherry if it matches the cherry color better). But ya know, that's just me...☺
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 8, 2007
12:10 AM

Post #4058908

That's what I was thinking also. But the computer counter is also there and has to be tied in, I am not sure I totally like the cherry color next to that green/black formica. Hmmm... Painting anything more than the table legs black would probably be too heavy and dark looking.

I see I just sort of repeated myself. lol

Thanks!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 8, 2007
1:13 AM

Post #4059223

Your wall color is green, so there's the green in the counter. The black comes in with the painting of the legs. The cherry comes in with staining the top and seat bottoms. See?

And actually, my girlfriend has a black table and chairs in her dining area and it looks pretty awesome. Wish I had a picture to share, but I don't.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 8, 2007
2:52 AM

Post #4059679

I know the table would look great black and red, but would the counter then stick out like a sore thumb? Here's a super quick pic I took. How would those cabs look red - to match the half wall on the other side of the table?

THANKYOU!!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 8, 2007
2:53 AM

Post #4059682

Sorry, you might wanna see the pic. lol

I'm covered in dust from sanding and trying to hurry to the shower. lol

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 8, 2007
4:09 AM

Post #4059906

Go for it Robin! You'll give balance to the room by having the cabinet backs and computer cabinets all the same...the red looks awesome. The counter isn't going to stick out, you've got green walls and you've got black in the counter. So painting the legs black and doing the seats in the red, is just going to enhance and pull it all together.

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 8, 2007
4:10 AM

Post #4059909

At some future date you intended to redo the kitchen counters. If you really don't like the computer counter top with the cherry, you can CHANGE the computer counter top when you do the kitchen. That is the simplest and most "cohesive" way to complete the project.

For what its worth, I think the computer counter top is fine with the cherry finish.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 8, 2007
4:19 AM

Post #4059934

Hey there psychw2, the computer counter is new, so I doubt she's changing that out any time soon. I think when it all gets done, she's just going to be amazed at what she's done and how neat it all looks!

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 8, 2007
4:22 AM

Post #4059942

I know the computer counter is new. I'm just saying that if she really did not like the way it looked with the kitchen "that is stucks out like a sore thumb" she could choose to change it with kitchen.

And I agree, the kitchen is really coming together and when she has all that back together it is going to be awesome!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 8, 2007
2:59 PM

Post #4060915

Or she might see how neat that counter looks with the red and decide to go for it in the kitchen too! LOL!

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 8, 2007
3:13 PM

Post #4060991

I agree, the rich cherry with the green and black are very nice.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 8, 2007
7:55 PM

Post #4062023

Phew, I'm glad that the combo didn't bring a... "ewww, not sure on that!" lol!

Well, I HAVE looked at granite, I know, I know! Anyhow, the lady who I spoke with started giving me estimates and I drew up the space for her a bit. We discussed bringing out the bar a few inches and adding barstools (in case I decide not to go with the banquette, which I still REALLY like the idea of.) She mentioned something I had NEVER considered: replacing the computer counter top with the same thing I put on the bar. Yes it would cost more, (they had a 40 ft. min. order, so that's what brought her to that idea), but here's the thing. When we did that, my husband took some left over and covered a huge old desk he has. When our son was born, he lost his office room, so the desk is in the garage now, but when we move...we could take the counter with us and replicate the look in a new place, with matching desk! Genius! Man, that whole area with granite on both sides would be AMAZING, but I don't have $2200 laying around, so maybe when I go back to work. ;-)

THANKS for the feedback and support!

PS Do you think the dining area would be better suited to a banquette or extended top and barstools?

Robin ;-D

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 8, 2007
8:04 PM

Post #4062045

Quick painting question!

Should I sand in between coats? I have read yes, but then I have also read that for example, steel wool can contribute to dust getting in the finish.

Opinions?

Thankyou!
R.

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 8, 2007
8:35 PM

Post #4062127

The cherry looks great. I know when my "BIG" boys were home we would not have wanted the bar OR the desk there so I'm not the one to ask that question.

Adhesion is enhanced with sanding. You do have to be careful and get the dust up before the next coat. I don't know if tack cloth is still the best thing for that or not.

No matter WHAT you do, there will be some people who will love it, others that the set up you chose will not work for. Since it's the ONLY eating area you have, I'd be careful to not cut into it by adding the bar, yatta yatta. There are people out there FAR more knowledgeable than me about RESALE, since that is a concern of yours.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 8, 2007
10:13 PM

Post #4062446

I don't know about the granite in the dining area. That would just seem so permanent to me. Who's going to toss out granite, but will they buy the house if the dining set they have won't fit? If it's just the Formica, they know they aren't out much if they remove it. I also wouldn't add a bar. If I did anything, I'd make it so that it didn't hang over so much. Probably using wood, stained in cherry of course! Like what I did waaaaay up there in the basement of the house in TN.

I have never sanded in between when I'm using paint, unless I have a drip. Poly or varnish, yes, you always sand in between coats. But paint? Nope. Never have and I promise I never will. I've never heard that paint needs sanding to ensure better adhesion. Again, for poly or varnish, yes. But never for paint.

I'd buy or have somebody build a bench to go along the wall under the kitchen opening. When the house sells, it comes with me. I'd hinge the top or have it open on the front end to store things.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 8, 2007
10:19 PM

Post #4062460

Thanks! All great suggestions.

Hey, ecrane, did I ever say THANK YOU for the awesome suggestion of using glaze instead of water? I think that really did the trick. I just keep staring at the red. I think I'll do our front door in this. :-D

Maybe that's what I'd heard, sanding in between coats of poly. I had been reading a post somewhere about poly. Maybe that's what I did that caused the weird texture in the bathroom. Maybe I sanded in just a spot or two, then applied the second coat (or third). So I DEFINITELY need to sand in between coats? And really evenly??

I'm off to get some tinted primer to tackle the chairs with. Joey got a stomach bug and is likely staying at his mom's with the kids another day. Sorry, honey, but YIPPEE!! ;-D

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 8, 2007
10:25 PM

Post #4062483

Glad the glaze worked for you! I think it's more foolproof than water, with water if you add a little too much then it gets drippy and runny, but if you don't add quite enough then you don't get the effect you want, but glaze is more forgiving.

As far as the idea of doing the bar...if you're worried about resale and that's your only eating area, I would definitely make sure that you have room for a table vs doing a breakfast bar. A bar area is fine as a secondary eating area, but it's hard to gather the family around it for Thanksgiving dinner, so your pool of buyers who will find your house appealing will be smaller if you don't have space for a table. Maybe if you were in an urban area and your main buyer pool would be singles or couples w/o kids then the bar as the only eating area would be OK, but in a suburban area where a lot of your buyers are families with kids, you definitely want space for a table.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 8, 2007
10:43 PM

Post #4062537

The in-between sanding shouldn't be done with the palm sander, but just a sanding block. Even pressure sanding with fine grit sandpaper (whatever grit you used last) over the whole area that you used the Polycrylic on, in between each coat. Always going with the grain of the wood...but over paint, I'm not sure that that's even an issue. It shouldn't cause a weird texture though, even if you did only sand in spots. I just used the Polycrylic on a door upstairs and I started slopping it on before I realized it hadn't been sanded and it's fine. If you got a weird texture, I'm thinking that you didn't let it dry enough. Remember, humidity in the air takes longer to dry. The sandpaper should just glide over whatever item you're sanding. All you're doing is lightly scuffing up the area for better adhesion. Different if you used gloss and then are doing satin. My can said satin, but was gloss. I had to sand sand sand that way down, being careful to not sand into what I had stained.

Oh, don't ever use Minwax Wipe-On Polyurethane for furniture. That stuff stinks and I don't mean the smell. I've done 3 coats on my end tables and they don't look it and sure don't have a nice smooth finish on them. I'm doing them all over again...with the Polycrylic, which I should of used to begin with. I figured this wipe-on poly, being it's for furniture, would work better. Wrong!

I had never had a problem using water and that's all I ever used. Unless I was doing walls. I did quite a few doors with water and paint. I helped my sister do wide pine planking she had put in her bedroom, with Mineral Spirits and paint mixed. I'm really glad ecrane came along and mentioned the glaze. I had forgotten all about it.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 8, 2007
11:48 PM

Post #4062814

Thanks, everyone.

Just ran out for some sustenance, and I need to get back to work. You'll be sorely disappointed to hear that I have ONLY tackled the BOTTOM cabinets. I will need another entire weekend to do the uppers. My whole thought was the lower cabinets could be messed with by my kiddos (even if it's just dragging out the exposed insides), so I needed to accomplish those for SURE while they were out of town. I may try to do the uppers slowly during naps, at night, etc.

I read somewhere that it's not good to let a primer coat sit. That you should paint soon as possible, or you don't get a very good finish. Any truth to that? I can't see the reasoning for it...hmm.

Ecrane, thanks for the input! I would actually be squeezing in barstools. I definitely still want the table there. When I was speaking with the granite lady, and we were going over dimensions, she asked if it could extend 3 more inches. I said maybe it could. She said the barstools would basically sit under the bar and out of the way and that it would be a great asset. I agree, but of course, she hasn't seen the space in person, so I don't know. As for the banquette idea, right now at HD, they have the cabinets I would want to try to use ON SALE and there are just enough of them. I am SO tempted to go get them and try it out while hubby is away. Hee hee! Pscyh, my whole intent would be to maximize the seating area, but noone seems to have the same conception that I have that it would do that. My best friend nixed the idea too, saying I didn't have the space for it. I would be doing it to save space, actually, but who knows. lol!

Thank you everyone! I REALLY love coming here and getting such great advice and feedback!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-D

PS Terry, I bought Solo cups and have the cabinet doors propped up on those. Works fine! I am right in the living room, with HGTV on! lol!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 9, 2007
1:35 AM

Post #4063276

You're working as fast as humanly possible Robin. You didn't expect to accomplish all of them in this one long weekend, did you? I have never heard of a primer not being able to sit for any length of time. If it's outside, on window casings maybe and left in the elements, maybe I could see that. But for cabinets? No. You just don't want them hanging and then getting the oils from your skin on them and then painting. That wouldn't be good.

The bar idea would be an alright idea, if the computer counter was in the way. That's taking up too much space to do a table and extend the counter out 3". Sounds like a head knocker to me.

When I did my MIL's kitchen, after getting all the cabinets stripped and the painting commenced, I think I painted every day for at least 3 weeks. That was walls, ceilings, cabinets. Almost all the cabinets...then I slipped off the ladder and broke my ankle, so that was the end of me working on it.
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 9, 2007
1:38 AM

Post #4063296

Between you and Equil, you guys are doing all the bone breaking so no one else has too. lol
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 9, 2007
2:04 AM

Post #4063393

Keep thinking that way pepper. I'm sending my mojo to you! You're next...☺
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 9, 2007
2:36 AM

Post #4063489

Ha ha! Terry, I thought of you as I was teetering on top of my stove reaching into the far upper reaches of my ceiling on day 1! Thank goodness no hospital trips yet! Since I'm home alone, I'd have to drag my sorry self to a neighbor! lol!! Maybe I shouldn't joke...

Keep your fingers crossed for me!

robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 9, 2007
2:45 AM

Post #4063514

Cordless phones are great inventions. Unfortunately, when you fall, they go flying out of your pocket or wherever you've clipped it. Leave one laying on the floor. That way, if you fall, you just drag your sorry self over to where it's laying...lol. Notice I said you and not me, because if I had said me, I'd fall tomorrow. Guaranteed. And if you do fall? Don't tell me because I'd have to do a sympathy fall. I swear. ☺
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 9, 2007
3:01 AM

Post #4063553

LMAO, Terry! ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 9, 2007
3:24 AM

Post #4063622

Next big question for everyone...

To GLAZE or not to GLAZE?? (on the cream cabinets)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 9, 2007
9:29 PM

Post #4065908

I would. Simply because I think they look much better than just a plain ole cream or white or whatever.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 9, 2007
10:16 PM

Post #4066052

Thanks, Terry. I'm trying to decide if it will hide or emphasize imperfections. Hmmm...

Husband comes home in a few hours! Eeek! Wish I had just 2 more days!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 9, 2007
10:55 PM

Post #4066174

Be more specific on the imperfections, please?

Darn him for getting better so soon...lol. And what's he coming home to? How's it look so far?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 9, 2007
11:23 PM

Post #4066250

Well, as I said, I never even touched the uppers. :-( Kinda sucks. Our garage is hot and cat hairy, so I don't know when I'll be able to get the rest done unless he takes the kids for most of a weekend again or I just work bit by bit.

I had to take a break for a bit because I spilled a watery paint cup on the carpet. (Dam& this carpet! Where's a good Pergo floor when you need one?!) And of course it was the Tawny Port, not the Latte. ;-} Anyhow, I decided I needed to clean up some anyhow, so took care of that. But, I was almost done with the fronts of the cabinets. So when I got back to work, a couple of the doors were behind the others. So I think I'll do a FINAL coat tonight then try to do poly tomorrow somehow. Hopefully, I can get them hung in the next 3 days or so. Takes SO long! The doors especially because I have to be sure they are REALLY dry before I can do the back side, so they take twice as long. They look really nice though!

Imperfections, well, there are quite a few and I'm sure more to come in the future, you know just dents and dings, tiny crumbs in the paint, etc. The glaze will drag over all of those, just like it will those pretty crevices. I'm so scared to try it out! They've taken so long to get this way! lol!!

Oh and about the "weird texture" I got on part of the polycrylic in the bathroom; the best way I can describe it is it looks like some chalk dust got brushed on it. It is just a difference in texture in a few spots. It is only noticeable during the day with the skylight shining in. They look much better at night! lol!

I haven't decided if I should try and salvage these crappy old hinges or not. It would save quite a few dollars that I could put towards flooring or a light fixture! Oh yeah, I haven't bought the knobs yet either. lol Sigh...

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 10, 2007
1:23 AM

Post #4066740

I've got my 10 yr old nephew. My husband works seconds, so our lunch is really a supper. I usually skip supper, our daughter fixes herself something easy in the micro. I have to cook now though, he's hungry!! And he needs paper! And he can't find a towel! and and and...

Spilled paint, oh no! That's never good, I'm sorry. Hey! I know, it beats breaking your ankle!! Let's look at the positive part of it...lol.

You're doing the backs of the doors last? You mean the inside of the doors? You should always finish with the outside of the door last. People won't see if the paint somehow gets marred on the inside, but they'll see it on the outside. So in the future...backs first, fronts last. It does take time. Time for everything to dry is the longest. The Polycrylic isn't too bad, it dries pretty quickly. Same for primer.

Do you have any scrap lumber? You could pound it, stick a nail in it, scratch it with a screw, etc, then do a quick paint job, then do the glaze and see how much it all shows or by it showing, is it just giving them more character. Old man next door? Or a handyman next door? Instead of borrowing a cup of sugar, borrow a scrap of wood. If you were right next door, girl, do I have the wood for you to try it out on.

On the Polycrylic and the weird texture, it does sound like too much maybe in that spot and it wasn't dry thru on that spot when you sanded. Either that, or it wasn't wiped down good enough and it is poly dust. I'm guessing on the first though.

What color are the hinges? I just know you're going to say antique brass. How about spray painting them silver or black?

And on the knobs. I wish I could say just buy them a few at a time. But I can't. I made the mistake of doing that a long time ago and when I went back to get the last set, they didn't carry them anymore. It was a matter of months too, not years. The last time I was at HD and was getting knobs for my end tables and the other cabinet, they had some on sale. I got the burnished bronze egg knobs for under a buck and a half. I realize that adds up when you've got more than 1, but I don't have any other answer. I'm sorry ☻
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 10, 2007
1:08 PM

Post #4067944

Oh, I did do back to front. Don't know what I said above, but you suggested that and it makes sense. :) Thankyou!

Kids are back today and it's business as usual. I will see what i can get done. I actually tried to find Polycrylic at WalMart and didn't see it. I will go to HD and Lowe's today and try to finalize the knobs. We (dh & I) think we can scrub and soak and salvage the hinges. I hope so! It would save a lot of money! I would think painting would only look good for a very short time. I am hoping they look alright. I'll go get some pics and see if you guys wanna vote on the knobs. :)

Back to it!

Have fun with nephew Terry!
PS It was spilled paint WATER, not paint itself, so could've been worse. I'm not telling husband, I'll just let him notice how spotty and dingy our carpet is. ;-) Time for some laminate flooring, sweetheart!!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 10, 2007
1:37 PM

Post #4068014

Here's a pic:

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 10, 2007
1:50 PM

Post #4068056

What do you think of this?

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 10, 2007
2:25 PM

Post #4068145

Oh yea, I knew paint water! Sorry, I didn't clarify myself. And I agree, "hon, it's just really time for some nice laminate flooring. Think how easy it'll be to keep clean and nice looking." Now, my girlfriend and hubby and are like my husband and me, DIY'ers. They installed the laminate flooring themselves. I watched the guys in the basement down in TN do it and I swear, it sure ain't rocket science. I'm not sure about my girlfriend, but with the guys that did mine, it didn't want to just click in and that was it. It clicked, but it wasn't butted up to the next one. So they just took a block of wood, and pounded it over. It's just at the edges of the room, anywhere it meets the baseboard, that you don't want it all the way up to the floor. They "float", so there has to be the room for expansion. My guys didn't do that. I told 'em too...lol...not to offend any Southerner reading this, but in my experience, especially southern guys, they don't like to be told what to do. When a sales rep landed at my house to see why it was bulging and he said it was too close to the wall, no room for expansion...one of my guys looked at me and I just did the "I told you so!" smile...lol.

I'm not positive, but read the box of TSP and see what they say about metal. I know my hinges had paint on them, so I soaked them in my stripper and then rinsed off with TSP. So maybe soaking in the TSP would clean them up good. Just be really careful about what you use to scrub them with. They probably have a clear finish on them that will scratch and that wouldn't be good. I have spray painted hinges before and they turned out fine. At the point I was at, my hinges had nothing to lose if the spray paint didn't work. They're on a storm door, so it gets opened up quite often.

I've never looked for Polycrylic at WalMart, so I don't know about them. I do know that HD, Lowe's, Menards, SW, all carry it.

The doors look great in the picture! PERFECT choice on the Solo cups!! I can't though, really see the knob. The picture isn't any bigger than the thumbnail above. Is it black? Or burnished bronze? I like it. Can't see it really good, but what I can see, looks good. Will you use pulls on the doors? Or just stick with knobs on all of them? Oh, remember, spray paint adheres a lot better than if you just painted them with regular paint.

Nephew is off to school. Instead of the neighborhood schools, like we used to have, they switched it up and made each school certain grades. When you move from say 3rd grade to 4th grade, you move from Douglas over to Lincoln. BUT, the town (or the school district??) about 15 miles away was annexed into this town, so their school became 5th and 6th grade. He's in 5th. So, I have to drop him off at Lincoln where he catches a bus that takes him over the next town. Coming home, he gets dropped at Douglas and walks home. Make any sense to anybody? It sure doesn't to me or many parents! I will say though, that his bus ride is really short compared to my daughters. My (our) daughter was in Special Ed. She was bused down to Peoria, about an hour away. And I am so NOT a morning person!! Getting up when it's dark outside is just wrong.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 10, 2007
5:43 PM

Post #4068681

Have just a quick sec here, we've done story time and took Daddy his lunch at work and ran to Home Depot. I WALKED OUT because I was so sick of waiting in line. I'm banning them, the service at our Lowe's is SO much better.

Anyhow, that picture came out terribly. Try this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=133496-103-BP1585-WID&lpage=none

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 10, 2007
8:33 PM

Post #4069126

OH!! I like them! Are you doing knobs on drawers or pulls?
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 11, 2007
4:10 AM

Post #4070775

Oh that is too funny! Last time I was looking for something at Lowe's dot com, I entered in my zip and hit the store I wanted that was close to me. I clicked on your link and it told me that "my store" had them! That's just too funny. I like them too Robin. Do they by chance have just a rope pull for the doors? That would look awesome. Knobs on drawers, pulls on doors. I've had either/or though. 1 house had all knobs, next house had all pulls, this house has knobs on drawers, pulls on doors.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 11, 2007
3:20 PM

Post #4071784

Ok, that glazing business is DIFFICULT! Not hard to slop on and wipe off, but hard to get it to look right. I feel like I'm trying to be an artist when I'm NOT! :) Any tips??

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 11, 2007
3:21 PM

Post #4071786

Since I was so displeased, I wiped more off and got this result.

PLEASE BE HONEST and tell me what you think!

;-{

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 11, 2007
9:37 PM

Post #4072835

Robin, so sorry, I've been outside all day long working in this cold weather. Brrr...

You're correct in #1 has too much on the flat part. #2 looks much better. But try to get more into the routered out areas. Just in there. Don't try so hard, just slap it on and wipe it off, concentrating the majority of it in the grooved (routered) areas.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 11, 2007
10:46 PM

Post #4073063

Thanks, Terry. I agree. :-) I did a redo and was pretty happy with the results. I took one of my daughter's paintbrushes and dabbed it in there, but then wiped just the top flat surface with a damp cloth. Kinda took my pinky to smear it and very lightly remove some excess. I am sort of excited now.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 12, 2007
3:27 AM

Post #4074248

The best investment right now you could make is to buy some artist brushes. I don't know how I'd paint without them...lol. I want a picture! And yea, your finger, your toe, it doesn't matter how you or what you use to get it the way you want. It's just important that you get it how you want and to be happy with it. Not sort of excited, but are excited.

And what does husband think of the red? Do you get an "I told you so!"? I love those...lol...

Hey Robin, I showed my hubby your pictures (I've been telling him for a long time he needed to see because I keep talking about you and your project ;). He, of course, agreed with me on the red for the cabinets, but I kept going, showing him the pictures and he really likes the cream with the red. I didn't bother with all the text, just showing him pictures. He said you need to paint the lower outside wood in the dining area, in the red. I'm rubbing off on him...lol...Oh and he was really impressed with the dramatic difference in the cabinets. The before, your embarrassing photo of the cabinet door you said, and then to what they look like now.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 12, 2007
1:14 PM

Post #4075009

Aww, that makes me feel so good. No, my husband is not appreciating the work. As a matter of fact, he has made it clear he is sick of the mess and my involvement in it. I got kind of mad at him b/c I think I deserve a little appreciation, but don't get me started. When I finally ASKED him what he thought, he said it looks ok, he'd have to put it all together.

It's nice to come here and get a little praise. :-D Thank you, I'm in short supply. ;-)

So what kind of paintbrushes do you recommend? What about a skinny chip brush?

PS I wasn't sure by what you wrote. What do you want pictures of?

Thanks, everyone!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 12, 2007
2:01 PM

Post #4075101

Ah Robin, I'm sorry. But if it makes you feel better, my husband is appreciating your work! This house is almost always dusty/dog hairy at some point in time, like now. We've been working outside building that ramp and deck extension, now we're on the fence and gates and even adding the pickets on the far end of the deck, instead of using lattice, so it looks like the fence that's right there, going in opposite direction. Gosh that doesn't even make sense. I'll have to get a picture later and show you what were doing. I've also got a door and my 2 end tables up stairs that I've gone in in the morning to put a coat of poly on, then outside to work on the fence. I need the door done though, so I can put the end tables up on the saw horses.

Do you have a Michael's or some sort of craft type store? They'll have the artist brushes. They're small, they're skinny and I sure don't know what you call them. I might have the chip brush mixed up, but is it the one that's round and the bristles are stiff? I have some stiff ones, but the bristles are just in a row, like a regular paintbrush, and the bristles themselves are short. Probably not even 1/4" long. At Lowe's, I got a package while we were in TN and I couldn't find my artist brushes, and I think they were called "touch up brushes". They're small, just like an artist brush. Remember, we're talking about brushes that look like something an artist would use to paint. Something like the brush that comes in the water colors you buy for the kids?

I'm sorry, I wanted a picture of how the cabinet doors ended up. With more in the grooved areas.

I was raised pretty much that if everything wasn't always in it's place, that somehow the world was just going to crash and burn. It doesn't. I'm so glad I grew up and learned that!

YOU'RE DOING A GREAT JOB!!! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!~ AND REMEMBER, TO DO A GREAT JOB, YOU HAVE TO TAKE YOUR TIME!!!

Not yelling...lol...just making sure you understand that I think and my husband thinks, that you're doing a great job!! Did I tell you he was amazed at the before and after of your bathroom cabinets?? He was!! ♥
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 12, 2007
2:10 PM

Post #4075134

:-D Thanks, Terry!

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 12, 2007
2:13 PM

Post #4075144

I thought that's probably what you meant. :-) Glad you and your husband have been impressed with the results. He must've REALLY been impressed after hearing about the duct tape used in the bathroom and then the ceiling with no primer. LMAO! I have learned a lot from you, Terry! ;-)

Thumbnail by robin_joey
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robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 12, 2007
2:19 PM

Post #4075164

Oh, and about the hinges. Is spray painting an option or will they look terrible in a year?

Yep, they're brass. (Well, brass with 20 years of cooking gunk on them.)

Here's the before.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 12, 2007
2:21 PM

Post #4075174

Husband took them to work and soaked them in ammonia, then cleaned them with a "wire wheel." (Have no idea what that is.) Now, they're nice and brassy.

Here's the after alongside the knob I'm thinking I'll use.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 12, 2007
2:57 PM

Post #4075283

OMG!!! Those look great!!! Robin, seriously, take a look at the close-up of the cabinet door that you were embarrassed to show and then look at what you've done!! I'm giving you a huge pat on the back! ((((((((Robin)))))))) And a huge hug, just because I know you're needing one right about now.

It was pretty funny, I have to admit, when I clicked on the photo with the duct tape. First words out of his mouth, "is that duct tape? Won't that peel the paint?"...lol. I told him yep it was duct tape, but it peeled off alright for you. I'm still amazed at that...I'm just so not a duct tape user because of the sticky aspect of it.

I hate to say it, however, I liked the look of the before pictures of the hinges. I know though, that they were probably sticky and just gross to hold onto. Now, well, they really are brassy. Can you tell if there's still a finish on them? They'll feel more "slick" if there is a finish. I've spray painted hinges, floor registers, cold air vent thingys and just a lot of other things. They all look as good today as when I did them a couple years ago. On the hinges, I remember I opened them up as far as they would go, like if the door was open, and I spray painted. Not a lot, you just do thin coats. Then when they were dry, I closed them and hit them again. I kept an eye on them, because I was unsure about the opening and closing part of it. So when they were dry, whatever the can said for drying time, I opened and closed them a few times and again, they were fine. The spray paint isn't like using a brush and the paint in your can and slopping it on like I've seen done. The spray paint is just a finer, thinner coat. I have a feeling that the "brass" is just a dunk in method they used. Under that finish is probably silver. If you were in an old house, you could get lucky and find that under all the paint was copper, like I did at my MIL's house. That was quite a find!

I just asked my husband on his opinion. He thinks you should just go for it. The coat (of spray paint) that you spray on them is just so thin, that it's not going to interfere with the hinge opening and closing. We also discussed that it's not like you're going to be removing them again to clean them. Once up, they'll stay there and you'll wipe down with (probably) with a wet dishrag. If it doesn't work, I'll be on my way to strip them off and apologize profusely over and over again ☺
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 12, 2007
3:45 PM

Post #4075424

Thank you, Terry! I just tried a combo of black and silver metallic spray paint and I think they will do well like that. Sure beats $2 a pop. I need money for the other handles. ;-)

I am so glad you like the results!! :-D I cannot wait to get it all complete. I want new floors then!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000JLWDNM/ref=ord_cart_shr/103-9226232-7215806?_encoding=UTF8&m=A14RYYMDZ9PVJK&v=glance

or

a Cryntel extra large vinyl tile that is supposed to look like Travertine (but doesn't really).
I couldn't find a pic, but I'd lay it on a diagonal.

Finally, I had a bright idea about the countertops. I asked more specific questions at HD the other day about the cost of Silestone. Bad news. If she figured correctly, it would be over $3,000. The granite cost for kitchen PLUS the computer counter was $2,200! (both approximations, but still...)

What about this: LG Hi-Mac for JUST the LOWER kitchen counter. It would include the integrated sink (wait, maybe that's only with a min. sf!) Then I could do a tile backsplash, upper bar and the two weird odd sized pieces on each side of the stovetop (only 11" wide, but 25" deep and creeping up the walls.)

Ideas on this??

Thanks again!
Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 13, 2007
3:51 AM

Post #4077508

LOVE the floors!!

I think you'll be happy with the hinges spray painted. It always amazes me what I can do with some spray paint! Make old look new again...;)

What is LG Hi-Mac? I don't have a clue. How do the existing counters look with the painted cabinets? Good, bad, so-so, worn out? If they look good, could you do a tile back splash to brighten, "new" it up? You know on that upper bar area, I still think shortening it's depth, using something like oak plywood for the top and using crown molding around it on the bottom, like the picture way up of our basement in TN? Also, when you move, does the computer counter stay? Or is that removed before you even list the house? You don't want "money" in the kitchen and Formica in the dining area. It just won't look right and again, any of the high end counters, I just don't think you're going to recoup the money when you sell. If you do it for your own pleasure and expect nothing in return, then go for it. Otherwise, please be careful. I still think your sink looks good in there. Especially when you've got the cabinets painted in the cream. I've lived in apartments, rented a house and then we've owned 3 houses. My favorite sink has been and always will be, the good old cast iron sink. You talked before about gunk around the base or edges? Have you ever removed the old caulk and put new around it? Makes a world of difference.

Were your ears buzzing earlier? My husband I were talking about all you've done so far. And together, we both say you've done a GREAT job and he's just as excited as I am to see the cabinets finished!! What a difference you've made in your kitchen by just painting the cabinets. Imagine if you can do the flooring too! Keep up the GREAT work ♥

Oh heck, I took pictures of the fence, just haven't put them on here yet. Hopefully tomorrow. I'm so proud of it, it just looks amazing to me!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 13, 2007
7:08 AM

Post #4077770

Terry, thank you SOO much. It just feels great to come here and get such terrific feedback. I have kind of hit a wall where I keep putting off getting that next coat on, I tend to curl up on the couch instead. lol Maybe I can really get a lot done this weekend. The frames and the drawers (where I don't have to worry about the double sides) have 2 coats of paint, but the doors just have one. I could stop here, but don't want to take the easy way out. :)

I definitely have places where I could find a good paintbrush. I need to look tomorrow.

Glad you liked the flooring. You mean the cherry laminate over the large vinyl tiles? Did I tell you I've been carrying around a sample since the beginning? I heard all this about the way it is not recommended for "wet" areas. I got a hardwood and a laminate and dropped a soup can on each. It bounced right off the laminate and left a big C-shaped dent on the hardwood. I also soaked the laminate in water for several days and it didn't change at all. Maybe a teeny thickening at the very edges, but I mean it was soaked for at least 2-3 days. I wonder if that is a DIY project worth attempting ourselves??

By the way, someone on RateMySpace said they did their topcoat on their cabinets in Krylon spray on satin finish. It looked great and I would LOVE to not have to spread several coats of poly on top of the painstakingly painted recesses. Afraid it might drag the glaze. It sounds like an easier solution too. Any experience with that?

LG HI-MACS is an acrylic solid surface (but feels less plasticy to the touch in my opinion than Corian) and has the "integrated" sinks, entired surface made out of the same product. (But they also offer LG Viatera, which is quarts, which would offer stainless sink.) No, we haven't done any upgrading to the current sink; if we kept it, we would definitely need to. The formica in there now does have some knicks and a few stains, but the main thing is that it's so *vanilla* you know?

Here's a link to an option, Cabo:
http://colonialcountertops.com/modules/rmgallery/images.php?idimg=260

I know the $ may not be returned, but we will live here for at least several more years and I think it would be a great selling feature when the time comes. It may have to wait till I go back to work though.

Better run!

Thanks SOOOO much!
Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 13, 2007
2:15 PM

Post #4078325

Oh my gosh Robin, can I ever relate to the curling up part instead of doing something "productive"!! I like to curl...lol. After awhile, you get sort of tired of it all and just need a break. A mental break from it all.

Yes, love the flooring, the Brazilian Cherry laminate flooring. I am such a klutz. Always tripping and falling, slipping and falling, cutting my finger (multiple times), just doing really stupid things to myself. But in the kitchen, I don't think I've ever really dropped anything that mattered. Once I had a knife, a sharp knife, I don't remember now how it happened, but the thing went out of my hands, up in the air and landed with the point in the wood. Hardwood also scratches. Like dog or cat nails can scratch it. Dragging something across that seems innocent enough, can scratch...but you get the laminate flooring? I don't think anything would hurt it. Well, fire probably would, but you're not starting any bonfires on the floor...lol. Damp mop to clean it and you're good to go. I've really never heard it shouldn't be in the kitchen. Maybe a bath, and no exhaust fan? That still seems more like hardwood shouldn't be in there and not laminate. But in this house, maple hardwood floors are the entire flooring in the downstairs, kitchen included. I wouldn't cover that up for nothing. In your house though, the laminate would look awesome. I think the way that Pergo and it's friends are designed, they are pretty much a DIY project. HD or Lowe's, do they have a class how to lay it? Might be a class to take. I've got a friend who's house burnt down and he's currently re-building. He's using Pergo and his counter-tops are some sort of granite. A newer granite that needs no sealer? I like the counter you linked to. Love the colors too.

I can see the can of spray poly in my head, but I can't remember that name of it. It's a blue and white can. I had a large media armoire custom built for me. When they delivered it, it had gotten not scratched, but rubbed against the wall in the hallway. The man who made it, touched up the stain and whipped out a can of this poly and proceeded to spray it where he'd touched it up. When he left, I grabbed the Pledge and a dust rag and it kept hanging up. I then ran my hand over it and it was not smooth. It was like by spraying, it created bubbles and the bubbles popped, but it left it not smooth. He did the whole piece that way, spraying it. Polycrylic is also made to be wiped down with water, made for in a kitchen and other places. I don't know about the Krylon stuff or if it might have the amber color to it. I guess, read the can and ask questions wherever you might buy it from? What we ended up doing, was to re-sand the entire armoire and then use Polycrylic over the entire piece. I paid a lot for this piece and then to have to re-do the poly, well, that was annoying. Remember, you're just looking at pictures. If the top coat isn't smooth, like this wasn't on my armoire, you can't see it. I know it's a lot of work, but I guess to me, it's just so worth it. Just as there's a trick to spray painting, there's also one for spraying on poly.

Also, on the counter tops, I don't really know how to explain it. You know, some women are jeans and t-shirts kind of gals? Minimal make-up, if any? That would be me. Formica is my style. My mom has Swanstone for her island, the other counters are Formica. That Swanstone scratches. I don't know if she can sand it or not. I'm guessing not, since her and my dad are so anal, it would of been done by now. Formica is so inexpensive that if that if I'm tired of it? It doesn't cost me much to replace. And I know I get my money back out of it.

Well shoot, there's something else I wanted to say, but the phone rang and now I can't remember! I'll remember later, I hope...lol.

You are doing great and your kitchen is going to look amazing!!!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 13, 2007
2:49 PM

Post #4078416

LG Hi-Mac is the same thing as Corian--if I remember right, Dupont's patent on Corian expired so now other people can make it now too. I think they may have already been manufacturing it for Dupont (not positive about that), but now that the patent has expired they can make their own and sell it too. Since it doesn't have the brand name, my guess would be they might sell it a little cheaper than Corian, but it's the same stuff.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 14, 2007
2:32 AM

Post #4080281

Hello!

Ecrane, yes, that's right, you're right! (Man, you're a wealth of information! Thanks so much for your input!!!) I was getting them confused, I think I finally just got them straight in my head. When I said LG HI-MACS, I was thinking of LG Viatera, which is engineered quartz, like Silestone. I like the integrated sink of the HI-MACS, but I like the cool true stone feel of the Viatera. Either way, it would cost me about $48/sf. That's why I was thinking I could do JUST the low counter with the sink in it, then tile the upper bar and two small portions on each side of the stove. Wondered it this would be too many surfaces though.

Terry, thanks so much for all the wonderful feedback. I had something I wanted to say and I'm drawing a blank now...

but on the flooring, I went to Lowe's (yes, AGAIN, they know me there!) and the admittedly biased flooring guy answered some of my questions about the Bruce engineered flooring. As far as I understood, I would just rip up the sheet vinyl, spread on a sealer and allow to dry, then install the "no glue no nails" hardwood floor. He mentioned that laminate is not considered added value to an appraiser because it's not attached to the concrete, but hardwood is (and strangely enough, vinyl tiles count too.)

Anyhow, it was just the prettiest color and I do like the idea of the easy care of laminate, but it would also be nice to have the "real thing" even though it's not incredibly important to me. I know some people strongly prefer hardwood over laminate, but I don't know that many people would strongly prefer laminate OVER hardwood. Anyhow, it was just the prettiest color and at 17 sf in a box, I would need two boxes (maybe break into a 3rd one, but that just allows me to do a bathroom.) They were $59.00 a box. That's not bad at all! I'm excited. I think I wanna go with that. I may go with the ease of laminate if I learn more about the installation process, but either way, I'm ready to get the upper cabs DONE so I can get in some new FLOORS! ;-D

Better go for now!

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 14, 2007
4:01 AM

Post #4080491

People might not prefer laminate over hardwood, but they do prefer laminate over vinyl. You have to look at it with the right frame of reference, laminate is a big improvement over what you have there now, hardwood might be a slightly bigger improvement but it's probably not that big of a difference. You also have to look at the overall price range of house you're in--if you're in a million dollar neighborhood, laminate is probably not going to cut it because people would be expecting things like Brazilian cherry and travertine. But in an a normal neighborhood like yours, people are probably expecting vinyl in the kitchen/bath, so laminate is going to be a step above what they're expecting. So if you like the laminate for looks, ease of maintenance, etc then I say go for it!

I'm also not sure your Lowe's guy knows what he's talking about with the appraisal thing--I think appraisers will generally look at anything you did to improve the property, doesn't make a difference whether it's a floating floor or something that's glued down.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 14, 2007
4:11 AM

Post #4080514

I think your house is considered to be a starter home. The house we had built was considered a starter home (or retirement), but we lived there happily for 21 yrs. It's all just in what you need for space and we don't really need a ton of space. I had hardwood put in the kitchen of that home, only because "I" was dying for it! It was our "forever" home...little did we know that the place hubby worked for would close up here and move to TN! To me, and anybody else can voice their opinion if they think differently, but in a starter home, people aren't out to buy their "forever" home. They're just starting out, they're buying what they can afford and hardwood and granite aren't typically in their first home. Our second home, down in TN, the whole basement was in the laminate look hardwood floor. I loved it! It was such a breeze to clean. My best friends house that did the laminate look hardwood floor, it would be something that somebody would buy when starting out. It's 2 floors, so really not a home that retired people would buy looking ahead to the future and not having to climb stairs. I think, when these young or older couples are looking at a home like your home or my first (or second) home, they're looking to see how well maintained the house is. Not how expensive the flooring or counters or anything like that is. But are things maintained and in good shape. If not in good shape, what does that tell them about the rest of the house. You know? If your cabinets, flooring, counters, are all trashed, then what's the furnace going to be? The hot water heater? The roof? When I spoke months later with the new owners of our home, that's what sold them on ours. They could see the love I put into that home. It was taken care of. There wasn't anything they needed to do.

So in a nutshell, for a home like yours, people are going to be after one that's been loved and cared for. They'll buy yours over the neighbors who haven't done a thing to upgrade. They aren't looking for hardwood and granite and stainless steel appliances, they're looking for a well maintained home. Does that make sense?

You know, I read this back and it sounds like I'm slamming your home. I'm not. It's what most people have for a first home...for us...it's the home we were going to live in forever, but you already know you won't, so I don't want you to make the same mistake as I did. That mistake is over improving for the neighborhood.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 14, 2007
4:14 AM

Post #4080520

Why do people always type over me?? LOL! ecrane said what I said...☺

I do think though ecrane, that what the Lowe's guy was saying was that the appraiser will look at the hardwood as an improvement and not the laminate floor. And I would disagree with the Lowe's guy.

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 14, 2007
4:24 AM

Post #4080538

Yes, I would disagree with the Lowe guy too. If you are still in question TALK to an apprasier!! My sister and her BIL installed the laminate flooring in her house and it is GREAT looking. My husband says that's what he wants here.

We are in the similar boat in that we know this is NOT our forever home and we will be reselling it down the road, one year, two years? Not sure. I do not want to make the mistake of over improving and not getting our money back. There is a "top price" your home will get no matter how improved it is... the top price the neighborhood will bring!

On the other hand... don't skip something if you love it and want it and it will bring you joy while you live there. You never know how long you will there!!! My first house we expected to live in 7 years and we lived there 15.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 14, 2007
4:31 PM

Post #4081681

Hey everyone!

I have to be quick but thanks so much for the input. I'm thinking you're probably right, it's probably a negligible difference on that "someday" when we have it appraised, so yes, I'm thinking laminate is probably easier for us in the here and now, will look great, and won't include (potentially) refinishing/touching up hardwood floors when we go to sell.

The price difference is slim though and I always banished the idea because of the more difficult installation...just NOT gonna happen. But when I saw how easy the click style was, I considered it.

I know we're in a starter home. I know some of my neighbors have updated and that means new formica and vinyl (I'm pretty sure). Most homes are going for approx. $100k and we only paid $75k. I'm looking forward to just getting as much as possible, plus we'll get to enjoy the improvements for several years. We've accumulated debt and have lots of student loans, so I suggest we stay here until the majority of our debt is paid off, before we take on a higher mortgage.

So does anyone prefer the look of the travertine-like large tiles over the cherry hardwood/laminate?

Ok, I have some time to work, so I'd better take advantage of it! Good grief, this is a lengthy process!! :-)

More later! Thanks so much for all the input everyone!
Robin
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 14, 2007
9:20 PM

Post #4082570

The price difference is slim? I didn't know that. Are you guys hard on wood? Were the cabinets in that bad a shape when you bought the house in...I'm thinking '03. Some people are just harder on things than others...my husband can wear out an expensive pair of tennis shoes in a month, where mine last for years...go figure. With wood, you do have to be careful about scratches and/or gouges. Now, I'm not hard on them, always barefoot or slippered foot and I pretty much "demand" that out of my husband and daughter ;) In a good way...lol. You have to make sure you have those felt pads on the bottom of the chair legs and it's a good idea to have something under the table legs. You just can't pull or push anything on the hardwood and not expect a scratch, unless it's got pads on the bottom is something soft to begin with. On the laminate though, it won't matter. Push or pull to your hearts content. Also, if you want to expand from the kitchen/dining area and do the living room, which I think you had talked about, you need the pads under furniture legs or nice rugs to go under the majority. Just like with anything, I'd rather have the real deal...you know, no cubic zirconia instead of a diamond! But we're not talking diamonds here, we're talking about a floor and how tough you guys are on floors. If you're not and there's not a huge difference in price, then why not go with hardwood? They make a cherry too. I prefer the cherry in laminate or hardwood over the travertine.

There's nothing wrong with being in a starter home. I told you we lived in 1 for 21 yrs. Only reason we're not still in it is because of circumstance. I don't think there's anything wrong with a starter home, at all. BUT, if you know you won't be there for a long time or if you will be there for at least long enough to get the enjoyment out of it, then by all means, use what you want. What your heart desires. But also remember, there's no need in breaking the bank and going further into debt over granite vs formica etc. When most builders build what they consider a starter home or a low end home, they use cheaper materials...as in cabinets, faucets, light fixtures, carpeting, that sort of stuff. After awhile, that builder stuff is going to wear out and will need replacing. And just because it's considered a starter home, doesn't mean you want to replace with builder quality materials. If that's all that the people can afford, then that's all that's afforded. But most people upgrade at least a little. You just don't want to go overboard. The market just won't support it. And I found that out the hard way...but the reason I wouldn't of done all that I did was because a genie appears and told me the future! I'm just not a mover. I hated moving from 1 apartment to another. I hate moving, my furniture gets damaged just a little with each and every move. My grandparents built a home back in the mid 40's, where they raised 4 children. It was just a little above 900 sq. ft. It never seemed cramped to me and I asked my dad if he thought it was cramped way back when. It was a resounding no. It was sold back in '00. Breaks my heart every time I drive by. It isn't grandma's house anymore. New siding, new windows...don't even get me going on the inside. I know what the inside looks like because I got my Realtor to take me there when we moved home. I couldn't find a house and at least I knew grandma's house like the back of my hand. I cried for days. O.k. I've cried for years now. I'm a sentimental fool over things and I admit it. Bigger isn't always better in my opinion, but quality means a lot.

Remember the most important thing...for the most part, you're maintaining your home. Things wear out and if it was trendy material used, that trend ends. Think orange counters in the 70's...lol. You're maintaining your home because the Formica and the vinyl flooring don't last forever. You're upgrading, because you're using a better product than the builder would of used. Like if you're ready to sell and your furnace goes kaput. You need a new furnace, so you pay $6k for a new furnace. You're not going to get that money back when you sell the home, because it's a maintenance thing. It makes your house look better on paper and might sell it faster, but it won't bring in a lot more money because of it. Make sense?
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 15, 2007
12:53 AM

Post #4083375

Terry, everyone types over you cause you make long posts and are slow doing it. :~p
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 15, 2007
1:08 AM

Post #4083432

Oh boy am I discouraged! Aargh! I just went and got a REAL estimate of LG Viatera (their Silestone like engineered quartz). I don't know how they can put "$47/sf installed" and get by with it. There were so many extra charges it was ridiculous. I think the guy was embarrassed even going over it all with me. I just sat there nodding, yep. What a rip! Grr...

Can anybody be my designer and recommend a nice countertop option for me? I looked at all the tiles, but I don't know think I could pull it off and with the bullnose/edging issue, I don't think it'd be that much of a savings overall. Sigh...yucky old beige formica.

Ok, on cheerier fronts! I will be glazing the lower cabinets tonight.

I have to run, more later!!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 15, 2007
2:02 AM

Post #4083609

pepper! Shame on you! I am not slow! I have to type and make sure it makes sense and my spelling is correct...o.k. o.k. I'm slow!


Robin, you don't have to just deal with the yucky beige Formica. Have you looked thru all that they have to offer? They have so many different choices. Do you have Menards out there? I saw that their in stock Formica is on sale. Maybe it is at Lowe's and HD too? They had 1 that was pretty neat looking. I can't remember the name off hand though. Milano Amber is the name. On paper, it sure looks pretty! It's not Formica after all, it's Wilsonart.
Here's a link to the color
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-437-milano-amber-4724-52.aspx
this ones pretty too
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-464-canyon-passage-1842-45.aspx
or this one
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-541-shale-moonstone-13045-38.aspx
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 15, 2007
2:09 AM

Post #4083640

Terry's right, there is some pretty nice Formica (and other brands of laminate) these days, they have tons of different colors, some are made to look like granite and other natural materials. I'd go shopping and check it out before you give up on it. You might be surprised! I strongly considered it at my old house--it was a similar situation to yours where it was more of a starter house and granite could have been an over-improvement that wouldn't have paid for itself. I ended up selling the house before I got around to replacing the counters, but there were some quite nice Formica colors even then and that was a couple years ago, so there are probably even more options now.

You might also try shopping around for your quartz surfacing--there are usually one or two edge choices that you can do for free, then it's a big upcharge for some of the fancier ones. But if you can live with a plainer one, then you should be able to get it for pretty close to the "as installed" price that they list. So if all you wanted was a simple edge and they were adding in all these upcharges, it could be you're not dealing with a trustworthy company. Either that or LG uses sneaky marketing tactics--my experience was looking at things like Silestone, Cambria, etc so I don't know anything about LG's pricing.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 15, 2007
3:22 AM

Post #4083932

Thanks, guys.

The whole reason I was against the idea of laminate is because of that darned computer counter. I will broach the (sensitive) topic with my husband of replacing both in the same material. I am sick of trying to work around it.

I like the Wilsonart HD and think I could find one I'm very happy with IF I also replace the computer counter formica, but I simply do not like the idea of one formica on one side of a room and a different formica on the other side just a few feet away. The High Def. laminate would be an improvement though and at this point, it may be the only option for me.

As far as pricing on the quartz, I ACTUALLY found a grade A which I liked, just kind of a simple sandy pattern, I think it would look great. (Usually I only like the higher grade patterns, the A's are often really boring solid colors.) So that meant, according to the chart, LG Viatera would have been $47/sf and I was under the impression that was "installed, sink included, min. 25 sf."

Here's what the guy wrote down for me:
1,295 (Grade A - I think he figured 27 sf at $47)
188 Edge - he described that the price quoted above was for the 2" and basically you have to have 4"
0 SINK PROMO! Whoopee!!
His writing is impossible to read, but I think the rest of it was...
240 sink cut and fit
280 demo and tear out old counter (couldn't *I* do that?)
300 plumbing

Whoohoo, $2,303
He said the quartz is rarely less than 3,000.

Ok, I'll live! But dam#itt, my next house will have SILESTONE!

Oh, and Terry, the cost of what *I* was looking at, between two pretty red toned flooring, the laminate was $2.97/sf and the "engineered hardwood" was $3.68. So that's where I got the "not much difference" in price idea. But you know, as I've said, we could very well move in 2-5 years, but I think it's just as likely we could be here longer, so I think the hardwood would be something I would buy to appeal to buyers and the laminate is something I'd more likely buy just for me and for ease of use. Since I've first started researching everything, I've heard many kitchen shows describe the laminate flooring they've put in and I had been under the impression laminate was NOT recommended for kitchens. (I was specifically told that the very first time I looked into it a few months ago.) I don't think I'd be happy with the scratching/denting quality to it.

Gotta go read to the kiddlies!

Thanks, all!!!!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 15, 2007
3:50 AM

Post #4084018

Engineered hardwood only means it was factory finished. Instead of a guy coming to your home with raw tongue and groove wood, laying it, sanding, staining, and top coating, it's finished in a factory and then you just put it down, nothing else required. This is my second home with hardwood and I love it. Spills clean up easy, I don't have any dents in it...it is hardwood. Upstairs is wide plank pine, now that leaves dents. Maple though? Or oak? No dents. I remember Bruce has 3 coats of poly, Harris Tarkett has 7. Guess which I chose. No price difference. The guy who did my kitchen at our old house, took me to his house to see his kitchen. His wife ran a nursing home out of their house. Walkers, wheelchairs, etc. Kitchen had hardwood.

No way would I ever pay that amount of money for a counter. You could get a new counter, new sink, new faucet, buy all the knobs for your cabinets, buy a new light fixture, and you're still under that $2,303 quote. If there's no other hidden charges in there. Like the trip to your house to do the work. Taking away your old counter and sink. Oh, I didn't realize it was a cast iron sink, that'll be extra. I'm not sure my counters were even $400. Huge difference.

The other option without losing your computer counter, is to use a plain color in the kitchen. That way, it'll still go. Or, would the green/black go in the kitchen? Is that not an option? Don't you want the same material in both rooms, since they're so close? Expensive in the kitchen and cheaper in the dining area? I'm not following?

What's so special about Silestone that you're dying to have it?

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 15, 2007
4:14 AM

Post #4084103

Sorry, that was unclear. I don't like the scratching/denting qualities of HARDWOOD.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 15, 2007
4:15 AM

Post #4084105

oops, we posted at the same time. Hee hee!

Lemme go read!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 15, 2007
4:15 AM

Post #4084106

I'm not sure why you have to have something more than the standard edge, but the money to tear out the existing counter and to do the plumbing are pretty standard, and the "installed" price never includes those. The places I looked at though you could choose to do those things yourself if you wanted to, or you could pay to have them do it. I let them demo my existing counter, but I did the plumbing myself (with the help of a handy friend). So if you like the price other than that, I'm sure you could tell them to leave those out of the estimate. You'll be without your kitchen for longer if you do it that way--when I got my granite installed, I had them do the demo and they did demo + install all in the same day, so I didn't have to live without the kitchen for very long. If I had done the demo myself, I would have had to start a week early to make sure I had it done in time, etc.

Personally I think that's a good price for a solid surface counter, but I live in CA where we have a messed up sense of how much money it's OK to spend on things! You could definitely do it much cheaper with Formica though.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 15, 2007
4:31 AM

Post #4084156

Ecrane, no it's not a lot, just to me. ;-) That's what's aggravating. I can MAYBE hold off until I go back to work, then go for it. Remember, I also (amazingly) chose Grade A, and each "upgrade" was $10-12 hike.

Terry, quartz is so COOL and SMOOTH and PREEETTTY! I like the look of granite (I think Giallo Ornamental would look really nice in my kitchen), but quartz somehow seems less flashy and more...unique or something. Same reason I like the integrated sinks of LG HI-MACS/Corian, (but I'm not as crazy about the plasticy feel) and they cost same or more than quartz.

I just told husband when I was doing dishes that every time I run the disposal and start the disherwasher, I get a stinky rotten egg smell. (I try to clean the disposal often with lemons, etc.) It seems like there is some kind of plumbing issue where water is sitting stagnant. I also pointed out how HORRIBLE the sink is looking in the corroded spots. I know I have been rinsing paintbrushes, etc., but I have recently have been on strike as far as bleaching the sink bottom and scrubbing the gross that accumulates in the rim. I wipe it with a soapy sponge and I'm not working to do anymore! He said a new disposal will probably be the fix for that. I didn't say a word because he knows what I want to do!

You want a laugh? My husband, grumpy as he can be, is still a big kid in many ways. He was a smurf freak when he was young, just a little bit longer than the other kids. ;-) lol I was born in '72 and I felt too big to care about them when they came out, but not him! (He was born in '71.) Anyhow, money is SOO tight, but he spent $50 on a smurf village and figures today! Sure, it's "for the kids". LOL! I bit my tongue hard not to say that that was nearly the price of a box of laminate! lol!

Gotta go glaze!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 15, 2007
3:04 PM

Post #4085091

The elbow thing under your sink, the pipes come down and go into a gooseneck thing. Either metal or PVC. There's a rounded edge thing where the gooseneck thing is attached. It holds it on at the top and at the bottom. It should only be finger tightened. See if you can loosen that, pull it out and see what's in there. It's not hard and I'm probably not explaining it right. If it is too tight, use a pair of channel locks and a rag to loosen. A rotten egg issue is usually when your water is reacting to the metal. I don't remember all the details about it, but some people with really hard water or well water, have a problem with the water and the metal inside the hot water heater. But it also corrodes the pipes thru out the house, if the water is really hard.

Back in the 70's, for Christmas, I bought my mom a rock that was busted open to expose the quartz. It held a pen and I had a tag engraved for the front with her name. Buy one of those. Not trying to be a smarty pants, but you'd get the quartz without the high price tag!

I love my Formica counter that looks like granite. It doesn't fool anybody that it is granite, and that's not the point. The point is, is that the colors in it are really nice. I guess I just really want you to keep a budget in mind. You started this thread by wanting to re-do your kitchen for $2000. Using the quartz, you blow the budget in just the counter. I think the biggest thing any of us has to remember, is that we have to live with-in our means.

I love hardwood and I love antiques. That's just my taste and my style. I also love my leather chair and ottoman and my leather sofa in this room. But I wouldn't break the bank to buy them. I just wouldn't.

I just think, for your own good, you need to slow down and keep your budget in mind. That's all. I'm being a mom. Honey, slow down. Good things come to those that wait.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 15, 2007
3:20 PM

Post #4085163

I know that you're right, Terry. Hmm, a quartz pen holder...lol!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 15, 2007
11:52 PM

Post #4086963

Hey now! It really is pretty! I bet I was 13 or so when I bought that thing and it still sits proudly on her desk! ☺
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 16, 2007
12:32 AM

Post #4087101

yes, I'll bet it was...is! I probably really SHOULD get one, but I'd rather have the countertop! ;-D My typing sounded sarcastic when it wasn't. :-)

Ok, I've looked at the Wilsonart a bit more and I'm still not jumping for joy like I was with the quartz, but I do think Deepstar Bronze would look really nice, ESP. if we replace the computer countertop.

I'm starting on the uppers tonight. I'm seriously thinking of getting a paint spray gun. Thoughts? Terry, do you think I could fill one of those suckers with poly??

Thanks, all!
Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
1:10 AM

Post #4087315

Oh no, I didn't think you were sarcastic, I knew you were teasing.

Jump Robin jump!! It's fits the budget perfectly! And it's so cool looking! And everybody else that does Formica or Wilsonart always picks such blah colors (except for Terry of course!)! Yours is cool. It's downright neat! Woohooo!! It's special because you love it! You really really do! Any better?? ☺ Your last name isn't Jones, is it?? ☺☺

You know Robin, I don't get poly or varnish in a spray can, let alone trying to spray it out a sprayer. You have to be so careful with it. No shaking the can (but you shake the spray can poly), no stirring too hard, nice and gentle so no bubbles. My thought is something is different about the spray can poly. It sounds thinner in the spray can, and in the regular can, it isn't thin. Did you read about my expensive custom built media armoire? The guy who built it used the spray can poly? And it was bumpy and rough and my rag caught on it? So we (o.k. fine, my husband) had to sand it all down and redo it? With a brush? And now it's slick as a baby's butt? And for the record because I'm the stripping and poly queen, the reason my husband did it was because the disks in my neck were herniated ☺. So by now you're understanding that I don't like the idea? I know it takes time. I really really do! I've refinished enough of the woodwork (and still refinishing, I'm not done, sigh) in this house to understand it completely and totally, but you want the best finish possible. Can you imagine if you did it, and it wasn't right? And you have to sand and sand to get it off? And you might possibly mar your paint job? Better safe than sorry?

Now for the paint and a sprayer. At SW they have this little throw away paint sprayer. You fill it with paint and spray. Downside is it's a 1 time deal. You throw it away after the 1 use. It might hold a pint? I don't know Robin. I debated on buying a real spray gun when we were painting the horizontal lattice, but there would be more waste, with all the holes. And the good ones need a compressor. Those are expensive. I looked to rent 1. It was more than I wanted to spend when I could paint for a heck of a lot cheaper. Took me more time, but I was happy. The other problem with renting, is that sometimes the person before you didn't clean it very good and it's clogged. The stores aren't always real good at making sure they're clean when they rent it to you. Or even making sure it works properly when they rent it to you...experience speaks. Your call though. You sure don't want to paint the uppers still attached to the wall. And you sure don't want to take them down. So that leaves the doors. I'd ask at your local rent a place and find out. Find out if they make sure it works properly. Do they make sure it's clean? Do they clean it again? Find out if your paint can go thru the sprayer without being thinned. Find out how difficult it is to spray when you've never done it before. And how much. Then decide if it's worth it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 16, 2007
1:27 AM

Post #4087404

ugh, all the unknowns. Why can't I just paint evenly and QUICKLY?! So, with 10 doors, flipping in between coats, dry time, I should be done by December. lol!

You like the DeepStar Bronze? I still LOOOVE the quartz and the granite and the integrated sinks, but it was $1 more than those, but figured in LINEAL feet. Hmm, still don't think it would be cheap. When I get a bit further on the painting, I will sit down and really draw out all the dimensions and get real estimates.

Bath time for babies! Gotta run!

I'll start the poly coats tonight. The glazing took until 4 in the morning, but I did it!!
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 16, 2007
1:28 AM

Post #4087407

Terry, how much woodwork do you have left?

Oh yeah, if we keep talking on here we will get past 500 posts. lol. Can't remember the last time I saw a thread so long. But it is a fun one.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 16, 2007
1:53 AM

Post #4087544

Hey Pepper,

I thought I'd start a new one when I get pics of the new kitchen. I can't imagine someone stumbling across this and reading the whole thing!

;-D Robin

Terry, we need pics!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
2:36 AM

Post #4087719

Ya, I like it. It's hard to see it very good, they took the photo with a glare on the edge. Not sure about the gold in it. It says gold, I just can't see it very good. I like this one too.
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-464-canyon-passage-1842-45.aspx
and this one
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-541-shale-moonstone-13045-38.aspx
and this one
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-340-amber-fusion-1794-7.aspx
this one ain't too shabby
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-319-brazilian-topaz-4584-7.aspx

I'm not positive because I can't remember which company made my counters, but this sure looks like it
http://www.formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/colors_collections/etchings_finish.detail.7732.0006.html

pepper, I'm done with the last door. For some reason, it wasn't wide enough for the opening, so Tony added onto it. I had it all finished and of course it didn't fit right, he had to plane it. So, I had to re-stain that edge and then the hole that some PO made to put a deadbolt in the door, hadn't been filled, so we made a hole and glued it in. Had to use wood filler too. sigh. Anyway, I had to re-do the poly on that side (door knob side, front and back) and the edge. But the other side is where they add on was, so it had to be re-polyed also, front and back. The back area...oh the back area...the attic door was stripped and stained and polyed. The trim and baseboard around it though, wasn't stained or polyed, because the walls need to be fixed. Then from the bathroom door to the back wall and over to the side and then up to the servant stairs, still need to be stripped, stained and polyed. Then where we removed a doorway (door was long gone) that wasn't original to the house and whoever did it, cut the old time drywall to fit over the baseboards so it's a different color. That needs to be re-done. Oh wait, I haven't done the last door because ours (the bedroom door) still needs the deadbolt hole filled, so I might as well strip and re-do the whole door. I am so tired of doing this. I know how to fix the walls in that back area upstairs, but I'm just tired of it all and I want it done. Soooo...Tony works for cheap. I work along side him, which makes it go faster and saves me more money. Pray for rain, because if it rains tomorrow, he'll be here to start. It's not woodwork, but the floors upstairs, with the exception of our bedroom and our daughters bedroom, still need to be refinished. another sigh. I'm up for that job, just not up to doing the whole back area. And let's not forget, I need to do a lot of skim coats in the hallway. Walls and ceilings. HELP!! Then I have to prime and paint all the walls and ceilings. And I need to finish the poly on the end tables. Then I need to drag the DVD/VCR cabinet outside so I can sand it. Then I need to Milk Paint it. Then I need to poly it. Did I say HELP yet? Have I sighed LOUDLY yet? Gosh, by the time I get this done, something is going to fall apart and I'll have more to fix. I might as well add in that I need to paint the staircase, stairs and walls going to the basement. I also need to paint the attic staircase, except the last step that shows. That'll be stained and polyed. Floor polyed. And the little short walls going up the attic stairs need paint. and and and...sigh. Who asked me this question? Whoever did, needs to get their rear end up here and help me!! I really DO love to DIY! Really!!! ☺
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 16, 2007
2:42 AM

Post #4087743

Terry,

"Gosh, by the time I get this done, something is going to fall apart and I'll have more to fix."

LMAO! Man, even **MY** house doesn't have a to-do list that long! That is a LOT of paint!

Gotta go put baby boy down for bed for the SECOND time!

Send me energy to get some work done tonight!!!

Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
3:00 AM

Post #4087807

You know, I didn't have my camera when I was working on the majority of the stripping and everything else in this house. No pictures of the kitchen before, nothing of the bathrooms, nothing of the bedrooms I stripped. No pictures of the awful wallpaper. No pictures of the wallpaper over painted wallpaper over wallpaper over painted wallpaper (that was the orange coat!), over wallpaper over wallpaper over wallpaper in our bedroom. No pictures of the lovely (ick!) carpet that was in here. Holes in the plaster that I've fixed. Falling dripping look ceiling in the foyer that I tore down. The lovely paneling in the kitchen and the jerry rigged plaster wall behind it. No pictures of the cabinets on plaster, but below the cabinet was drywall over the plaster. No pictures of the 2' soffits in the kitchen. No pictures of soffit coming down and plumbing hanging out. Whew. NO PICTURES! Of all the work I've done in this house. Oh and the lovely, simply lovely light fixtures in here. Cheap, plastic crap. The spare bedrooms woodwork was blue. Similar, but not quite, to the color I painted the walls. That was after we sanded the circles off. I know I took pictures of the lovely circles, but think I can find them? Daughters woodwork was painted brown. Kitchen was brown and parts were a lovely shade of neon yellow. 1/2 bath downstairs were white. The back area, which I can still get pictures of what's left to strip, are white. O.k. Can't find pictures of the back area. How about the doorway going bye-bye?

doorway here...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
3:01 AM

Post #4087814

doorway going...somebody posted, but I'm going to finish posting the pictures...

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
3:02 AM

Post #4087817

Oh, I forgot this one, lower where you can see the original woodwork, but can't tell that the drywall is covering it.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
3:04 AM

Post #4087822

and finally, it's gone!! Don't ya love how the lady who hung the wallpaper for the PO used a BLUE line to make where 1 wall paper ended and the other began and where the border went...eeek!!!

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
3:23 AM

Post #4087882

Ah Robin, the joys of living in a house built in 1896! I'm really glad they didn't do a lot of "modernizing" over the years. Would of been nice to have upgraded the electric or the plumbing, but noooo. Electric was 60 AMP service! Not even code! Knob and tube wiring? Eeek! Would of even been nice to have a furnace that wasn't so old. Ever heard of a Chrysler furnace? And the hot water heater? Popcorn anyone? That's the noise it made. No air conditioning. No vent for the dryer? Who has no vent for the dryer? Never? In 109 yrs (when we bought), nobody thought to vent the dryer? But I have beautiful maple hardwood floors thru-out the downstairs (who knew?), I have 2 pocket doors, I have beautiful trim and baseboards. I love my fireplace even if it doesn't work! Cast iron and actually a coal burning fireplace! Love the little tiles around it, love love love! the mantel surround and the old old mirror built in. Love my built in china cabinet! And as I call it, my wall of wood in the foyer. How I love my wall of wood! This is ticking me off. I know I took a new picture of my fireplace where Tony fixed the edges. Whoever, when they installed the carpet, they removed 3 rows of the little tiles. So I had Tony create a wood border, beveling it on the edges and then I stained the wood in the color of the fireplace. The floor is natural maple, no stain only poly, the fireplace is sort of a fruitwood, teak and aged varnish stain. I had to mix 3 or 4 to get the color I needed. I'll try and get a new one.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 16, 2007
4:17 AM

Post #4088029

Terry, that is such an improvement! Your 1896 house and my 1986 house. Lol. Houses like yours almost give me a creepy feeling because you can sense their history. I could probably get myself scared if I had to stay by myself in an unfamiliar old home at night! Am I weird?! lol!

Your house is so lucky to have you!!!!!!!

I never really wanted this house when we moved in, because of the "patio home" aspect to it and the small kitchen, but I have grown to really like it and as I've said, we may just be here longer than we think. I also hate moving and with kids/school to think about, when we move to our next house, I don't want it to be another stepping stone. I want to know we're going to be there for a while and be happy there.

more later!
Robin ;-D
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 16, 2007
2:25 PM

Post #4088953

I don't think you're weird, no. I do have to say though, that you wouldn't be able to get yourself scared in this house because you can feel it's gentleness. It's just here. If you're weird, so I am..lol.

Tony was jacking up our front porch. Whoever did it, didn't support it right (what's new?) and needed to jack it up and put supports underneath. He was just getting ready to crawl under after he'd cut 1 of the 4x4 to size, porch already jacked up and I suddenly whispered, "did you hear that?". He stops at looks at me. "hear what?" "the house, it just sighed in relief and said thank you!" It wasn't the first time I'd said that to him, so he just chuckled. I do do that all the time, talk to the house and tell it "you poor baby. Don't worry, I'm here now. I'm going to get you fixed back to your beauty" and I swear, the house smiles at me. Just a feeling of it smiling, I don't actually see the house crack a smile...lol. O.k. Now who's weird??
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 16, 2007
2:47 PM

Post #4089022

We both are! Lol!

Ok, *IF* I compromise and get an HD laminate and forget about shiny stones for a while, MAYBE I can swing for a new sink and faucet, like a bronzey black one!

Look at this kitchen!
http://ratemyspace.hgtv.com/SNC/ViewItem.aspx?pguid=6db6be3f-1720-4ba3-a081-999042c09b6b&itemGuid=eb1fb9b6-9968-4146-a7e3-a8b8646a253b
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 17, 2007
12:22 AM

Post #4090952

Oh man, I am so irritated. I just thought I'd look at kitchen faucets (bronzey black colored) and in the "kitchen showroom" section saw one that looked perfect, single lever, good color, Price Pfister, with a clearance sticker on it! $24!!! Of course, (I really didn't even get my hopes up), when I asked about it, they were all out. The guy was super nice, and apologized and said he thought the sticker had been removed a month ago. He confirmed that yes it was a good faucet for a great price, they just needed to "move it." I will definitely keep my eyes peeled for those yellow stickers!

I got a price quote on the Wilsonart HD, (boy is it a pain in a$$ to get an actual number from them). He said the "Deep Star" and "Sedona" are premium finishes, and they run $24-$34. I asked what determined the difference and he said backsplash/edge, etc. He said it would be flush to the back of the counter and I said a basic no-drip edge is fine with me. He said for me to estimate $30/sf. He said he recently did a job that he had quoted $800 and it ran $1,000 because of the edging that they have to fit to the home. He explained that the quartz and acrylics that are molded can sometimes be simpler and cheaper.

Aargh!

So, 27 sf (I'm guessing) X $30 = $810.00... and then some.

Then I have to buy my own sink. With acrylic, the sink is "included." What a mess to figure out what is truly your best bet.

Husband leaves for a 5-day business trip tonight. Uck!

Robin ;-)
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 17, 2007
12:30 AM

Post #4090986

I'd look at some other laminates--I think you can get Formica for cheaper than that, this sounds like it's on the high end of laminate pricing. There are some Formica colors that are very pretty but not quite as fancy and granite-like as the Wilsonart. But since nobody's going to be fooled into thinking it's real granite anyway, I'm not sure if it's really worth paying that much more for the Wilsonart, I bet you can find some nice Formica colors too. I'd at least check them out and get a quote on them before you make up your mind.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 17, 2007
12:38 AM

Post #4091013

That's the way to think! And you're still going to be under the $2400 or whatever it was for the quartz! Notice she has a white sink? And FWIW, I don't think white appliances are icky or boring. White is always in style, where all the colors sooner or later go away. Remember Harvest Gold, Avocado and Coppertone? I always loved the Coppertone, but like everything else, it went away. You used to get appliances in Almond, now it's Bisque and it's not the same.

I wish I could remember the make and name of the faucet I had in TN. It was the oil rubbed bronze. I loved it. There's a picture up there somewhere of the sink in TN. Well, here's another one. I can't find the one I want, hope this one is good enough.

Thumbnail by terryr
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terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 17, 2007
12:45 AM

Post #4091039

Well 2 people posted while I was tying to find the dang picture!

That is really high for a counter top, either in Wilsonart or Formica. It also helps for them to come, because our measurements are always off. I know I paid half that and I'm pretty sure mine is Formica. I'm also pretty sure that that's my counter up there under the Formica link. It's a fake granite and I wasn't trying to fool anybody. I just liked the colors and the look of it best. I like how on the edge, when you come in the back door, it curves in ever so slightly. When I asked about it, it's so it's not a sharp hard edge for anybody to knock into. Smart idea!
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 17, 2007
12:51 AM

Post #4091059

Plleeeeeeeasssee start number 2!!! LOL
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 17, 2007
4:44 PM

Post #4093317

Had Price-Pfister in CA - had to replace them all. Been through Delta, too.

Now, we buy nothing except Moen or American Standard.

Both use cartridges instead of washers and seats - they last years longer and are easy to replace, although the cartridges are not as cheap as faucet washers, I hate replacing them all the time - never seemed to get a year out of a washer. Average about 10 years on the cartridges.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 17, 2007
6:23 PM

Post #4093712

Wow, that's terrific information, thank you, Bubba!! ;-D

Terry, I LOVE the faucet you posted a pic of! That's exactly what I would like! I still may go with nickel if we replace, but I do really like the look of the bronze. :)

GUESS WHAT??!! I was wanting to look at hinges and did not have much time till stores closed, so I went by Home Depot when I would normally go to Lowe's. GUESS WHAT COUNTERTOP THEY HAD IN STOCK BY THE SLAB? The ONLY HiDef counter they had was the DeepStar Bronze and a super long sheet of it was only $175! Now, here's the ONLY bad part. We have zero money to work with right now, so I'm ready to commit to that counter (I assume this is cheaper than the other install price, but I suppose I could be wrong on that), but I just hope it is still there in the next month or so. I would think that it would be. As I've mentioned, I'd love to have a lot of the improvements done by Dec. 1, when we host a family gathering, but if not, that's ok too. I know it'll come. I go back to work in 8 months, I keep telling myself, and my husband. The relief from the $ will be nice.

Gotta run!
R.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 17, 2007
8:18 PM

Post #4094225

And my plumber says to stick with Delta because the parts are always available. Doesn't mean I listened to him...lol. I have Moen, Delta and Kohler.

That's great on the countertop! Here's hoping they still have it.

I'm seriously going to pass out. Not from fright or the heat but because Tony came today and we've been gutting the back staircase area. We put plastic up, have a fan sucking the air out, but there's a fine layer of plaster dust EVERYWHERE. Then on the way back from the dump, I stopped and ordered 10 sheets of drywall. They delivered them about an hour ago. They bashed into the front staircase, so I have pieces of drywall everywhere. And they hit the wall. And they knocked a picture off the wall. sigh. I just want to cry. 111 yr old plaster dust is not fun to clean up. Especially off my furniture. Tony should be back any minute so we can finish with the gutting. sigh.
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 17, 2007
8:30 PM

Post #4094270

If you really want that countertop - you might try to qualify for HD's credit card.

It saved me a bunch when I got mine - big sale on the item, and an additional discount because of the card. Paid it off when the first bill arrived so no additional fees.

Don't use it often - maybe once a year, now, but nice to have on those occasions between paydays or when cash already commited.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 17, 2007
8:43 PM

Post #4094333

oooh, I don't know, that's sort of like offering crack to a junkie! lol!

I have already mentioned it to my husband and he said NO! firmly. I had mentioned it before and called it a "project card" and he said oh, I didn't know that's what you meant. But, (like you Terry) I don't always do as I'm told. The main thing I was thinking about was the 6 (or 12 at times) months of payment with no interest. I have done that with a washer and dryer, a camcorder, etc. over the years. I will investigate what savings I could wrangle up, thanks, Bubba!

Terry, I am so sorry! All the improvements you guys are making sound so exciting!!

I have to run, husband is about to leave for 5-day trip.

Robin ;-D
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 17, 2007
8:52 PM

Post #4094371

Terry,
I'd have some words with the management at that supplier. Maybe BBB, too.
That's unacceptable handling of the material and your property. They should replace any broken sheetrock - at a minimum - and use another crew to deliver it.

As for dust - it is SO HARD to keep it contained during any demo work. Shop vacs are almost always by my side and still some escapes.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 17, 2007
9:03 PM

Post #4094415

I agree!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
1:34 AM

Post #4095325

Ohohohoh..."she says woefully"...I said something to Tony when he got back and he said that the stuff always does that. Not bash into my wall, but crumble while carrying. We were standing outside and I said somebody hit my wall with the drywall. He came in and he said he'd cop to the 1, but the others were the guys. Then he said it didn't take off the paint like I thought it did, it was just the drywall dust on it. I know 1 of the guys who delivered and all they're required to do, is drop it off, garage is most typical. Or the contractor or homeowner can haul it in while they wait. Didn't used to be that way, but new owners, so whatcha gonna do? They did me a favor by bringing it in and upstairs. So I hate to complain. The manager of the lumber yard as been giving me contractor discounts on all my stuff...Bubba, we just finished up an extension on our deck and added a ramp, plus we're putting up a fence. The majority of my lumber and supplies have come from this company. My biggest reason for not complaining at all, is that Tony had to jack up the second landing on our front staircase when I was first working on this house, before we moved in. So early early in '05. Then he nailed on a header to hold it up. I don't know why, Tony doesn't know why, but there's a spot on the wall in the staircase, right near where they hit it, that the plaster cracked and then fell out, so it has to be fixed anyway.

I've got 2 shop vacs. 1 downstairs where the servants stairs come out into the kitchen and 1 upstairs where we're working. I got a tad anal when Tony left and decided there really was no point in trying to dust everything in the house when it was 6PM, so I vacuumed and then grabbed an old mop and mopped. Now really, now dumb is that? My water was filthy after one rinse in the bucket. Yuck yuck yuck.

The plan wasn't to gut it all, the plan was to leave the good and fill in with drywall where bad. Well, more was bad than any of us thought. Then, there's who-knows-how-many layers of wallpaper. Painted over wallpaper I might add. So, it was just easier to gut the whole darn area. There's a chimney back there. Part of it is in the bathroom and part in the area beside where the stairs come up. I knocked all the plaster off it, like I did in the kitchen. I'm going to leave it like that. Looks neat, I think anyway. The metal plate where a wood stove hooked to it is in between the studs of the 2 rooms, but it still looks neat.

Plaster dust is just so yucky. So gritty and so everywhere. I had to clean my glasses so I could see I don't know how many times. Rinsed my face a half dozen times. I didn't think I was ever going to get my hair clean though. I was wearing a mask and when I'd take it off, it looked like I was snorting something illegal...lol. Do any of these masks really work like they're supposed to? I have found 1 yet that does. At least this area isn't black dust, like when I took the foyer ceiling down. Black sooty dusty yuck. O.k. I've complained enough, I feel better ☺

Robin, I buy a lot of things that way! Around here, they do a year or more free financing as long as you pay it before the year or whatever is up. I don't think I've ever bought an appliance that wasn't the year free financing. Love that option! Never done it at HD, so I would check into it and if the payments are doable, then...??? You know your husband better than I do. My husband would be on board if I did it, even though he had initially said no...but after 26 yrs of marriage, it kind of works that way, doesn't it? And only if it's doable, nothing that's going to break the bank or cause us not to be able to eat! I shouldn't tell you this, you junkie you, but my best friend once wanted a new couch and loveseat and just couldn't afford them right now. Then she got a credit card offer that was 1 of those 0% financing for...I'm thinking a year...she got that credit card, bought the loveseat and couch, paid it off in the years time, then canceled the credit card.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 18, 2007
2:31 AM

Post #4095525

I've never understood why financial experts always advise against those "x months same as cash" deals, they're a great way to get things now and pay for them later. I do it all the time! I have had my bedrooom set for almost three years now, and finally in January I will need to pay Levitz for it! I guess there are people out there who don't read the fine print and don't understand that if you don't pay it before the no interest period is over, you have to pay all the interest that would have accumulated during that whole time period. If you don't get that part, then you can end up in trouble. But for people who understand how these things work they can be a really great deal. Even if I have the money to pay for whatever I'm buying, that money does me a lot more good if it stays in my savings account or a CD for a bit longer earning interest so I'll still do the same as cash.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
2:45 AM

Post #4095581

I don't get it either ecrane. It doesn't hurt anybody, you don't pay any interest when you pay for it before the time is up, so there is no catch. Why isn't it a good deal? The mom and pop appliance store here that does it, doesn't jack up the price suddenly when the sale is on, so...????? It's bad why?

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 18, 2007
5:07 AM

Post #4095892

Well... it's bad because MANY people are NOT disciplined. Also, no one knows the future. You could lose your job, have severe health issues, all things that impact your ability to pay. The same people who get into trouble with regular credit cards, get into EVEN BIGGER problems with these special deals.

Now, with all that said, have I ever bought something zero, down, pay before "such and such" date? YES and I've never had to pay interest because I have been responsible. That pay nothing until " --" can get people in BIG trouble. In general, if I can't pay CASH, I dont' buy it. People can be tempted into over spending when its on credit.
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 18, 2007
2:16 PM

Post #4096659

Terryr,
I have a Trend full face mask that works great for dust. DW got it for me.
Whenever I shredded leaves and brush, I looked like I was snorting something vile - nose, eyes, beard were all a mess - not anymore. I have a nice clean airflow blowing across my face so even my glasses don't fog up.
Rechargable battery pack and replacable filters (2 separate types).

BTW, Please attach some pix of the exposed work - I'm sure we would all like to see.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
7:22 PM

Post #4097768

Bubba, the mask sounds good! That's the worst part, you try to breathe, your glasses fog up and it just makes the dust stick more. Tony's on lunch, so I downloaded the pictures onto here. Here's a few


Here's the kitchen opening before we started. This is where the servant stairs begin in the kitchen. It was totally covered up when we bought this house. Upstairs and downstairs.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
7:23 PM

Post #4097774

Here's after the demo, but no drywall yet

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
7:26 PM

Post #4097787

This is a wall that is shared with the bathroom. See the bump out at the very right of the picture?

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
7:28 PM

Post #4097789

Here's the same wall, but the chimney is exposed now

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
7:29 PM

Post #4097797

Here's the opposite wall before demo. You can see how bad the whole area is based on this wall ;(

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 18, 2007
7:30 PM

Post #4097805

And here finally, drywalling began late this morning

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 18, 2007
8:06 PM

Post #4097926

That's going to look great when it's done.

Found a link with a picture of the mask I use. Not cheap, but this is the only one that will cover a bearded face - I've had a beard since 1976.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4923

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 18, 2007
8:34 PM

Post #4098019

Bubba, that's a LONG time for your face to be covered up!!
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 18, 2007
9:17 PM

Post #4098168

DW said I would look like my dead-beat cousin if I shaved, and she couldn't stand that - LOL.

Here we were @ the St. Pat's party in St. Arnold's Brewery this year.

Thumbnail by Bubba_MoCity
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 18, 2007
10:12 PM

Post #4098361

Now I'm thirsty for a beer! That looks like fun, Bubba!! ;-D

Terry, I cannot believe all that work! Wow! I agree, it's gonna look great when you're done! I can't wait to see completed pics! Your house is going to love you even more. :-)

Ok, I'm sink shopping...
I am trying to do this online somewhat, (won't buy that way-just looking)...
What do you think of this pair?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100526836&N=10000003 90401 500852&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125

or

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100041469&N=10000003 90401 500852&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125

with
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100098208

I am trying to understand all the hole-cut-out features and self-rimming/drop-in, etc. The sink I have now has a metal ridge where if I use the area to the left of the sink and have crumbs to wipe up, if I wipe straight into the sink, I pretty much jam them under that metal rim. I have to be conscious of that and don't like it. I think the only countertop that is compatible with an undermount sink is granite or quartz, am I correct? So I am thinking I need a "self rimming" rather than a drop in, if I decide to go with formica. I also like the holes to be recessed and on the sink itself, not on the back area, to contain drips. I don't need a soap dispenser, but would like spray.

Just thinking out loud! I will go and look around some more at the DeepStar Bronze here in a little bit. I WISH we weren't so broke right now!! Grrr!

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 18, 2007
10:21 PM

Post #4098397

wait, this is actually the faucet I was looking for. My favorites somehow set to alphabetical and I couldn't find it.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&productId=100097315#reviews
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 19, 2007
12:56 AM

Post #4099028

Robin, be careful with those acrylic sinks. They scratch really easily. We were looking at them once and my dad took a penny to it and it really scratched up. Just something to think about.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
1:03 AM

Post #4099047

You can do an undermount sink with tile too, or Corian/LG Hi Mac. But you can also do regular sinks with any of those or the granite and quartz, so if you're buying the sink before you're 100% positive what kind of counter you're doing, you're probably better off with the regular one rather than the undermount.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 19, 2007
1:04 AM

Post #4099051

For the faucets you're choosing, you need 3 holes. Each piece needs a hole. Some have a plate on the bottom, which I don't like. I like that last last faucet and the last sink. That last sink is very similar to the sink I had in TN, just can't remember the brand. On my sink though, they were both the same size on each side and the whoopy thing was on the side where I did dishes. I remember they had it either side. The whoopy thing. A 1 hole sink would be for a single faucet, no sprayer, I believe. I don't think with 1 hole you can have a sprayer. My mom has the faucet that pulls out to be a sprayer. I hate that thing. And FWIW, I love having the soap dispenser. That way, I don't have to have a soap thingy up top on my sink. Just looks cleaner to me. I haven't a clue what self rimming is. I don't know about you, but I like my sinks deep, but I also like to store things underneath. My cutting boards, my slicer thingamabob, my T-Fal deep fat fryer, Ajax to clean the sink, dish soap and who knows what all else. With the holes in the back, my stuff fits. With the holes in the center, they don't. Something is wrong with your sink now, if crumbs get under the rim. It should have a bead of caulk under it and that should keep any crumbs from going under there. Caulk wears out, so if it's never been redone, then it probably needs to be.

Bubba! Got an extra 300 bucks I can have? That thing looks great, but cheapers, this house is already costing me an arm, a leg, my other arm and now it's taking my other leg. 76 was a very good year! You look very handsome in a beard.

Thanks! I hope it's going to look great too! Tony found out that when my dad and I blew in the insulation, there was a 2x4 that blocked it from going where it should of gone. We did low also, but for some reason, there's no insulation there. You can see the holes were we drilled and you can see some in there, but not near enough. I have to run to get some regular fiberglass kind and Tony is going to take off some of the lathe off and put that in there. See? If ain't 1 thing, it's another!! Pictures will come when it's done! Oh and what's plumb? Is there really such a thing as plumb? I sometimes wonder if this house was ever plumb!!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
1:14 AM

Post #4099100

And don't forget the hole for the dishwasher air gap (if you have a dishwasher of course). I was faucet shopping not too long ago and it seems like a lot of the faucets they're selling these days have the faucet that pulls out to become a sprayer. I was able to find a nice one though that had a separate sprayer. So I ended up with 4 holes--one for the dishwasher, one for the faucet, one for the sprayer, and one for my instant hot water.

Terry brought up deep sinks (which I also like), but I would recommend making some measurements before you buy a sink that's deeper than the one you have now. I accidentally bought a new sink that was deeper than the old one, and my handyman friend and I had to spend a lot of time and get a little creative with the drain pipes to make things work.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 19, 2007
2:59 AM

Post #4099534

Dishwasher air gap? What's that? I've never had a dishwasher air gap? I know at my parents house in AR, there's this metal thing beside the sprayer that has to do with the dishwasher, but what's it's purpose? I've never had one and my dishwashers all work fine.

I would suggest all new under sink piping if springing for a new sink. When we redid our kitchen in our first house, they just replaced it all. Since the house is 20 or 21 yrs old, I'd think new piping was in order. Doesn't cost that much to replace just that under the sink.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
3:09 AM

Post #4099571

On the air gaps--I don't know too much about it, but if you don't have it, you can potentially get icky dirty water backwashing onto your clean dishes or something along those lines. You may go years and years without the air gap and never have a problem, but it's always a possibility. I honestly don't know how big of a deal it is, if it's just that your dishes get dirty again then it wouldn't be a big deal, but there might be more to it than what I'm remembering. That's what the metal thing is that your parents have next to their sprayer.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 19, 2007
3:13 AM

Post #4099593

Well hmmm...theirs in AR is the only 1 I've ever seen. Even their house up here doesn't have 1. I've had a dishwasher since '82, but my mom had 1 in the house they built when I was 9. That was a few years ago...lol.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
3:18 AM

Post #4099612

IS THAT WHAT'S WRONG WITH MY SINK????

I wondered what an "air gap" was! Yes, I have a "backslush" of stinky water when I begin the dishwasher.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
3:25 AM

Post #4099644

I think with a lot of older dishwashers they probably didn't install them, I know dishwashers have been around longer than air gaps have been. When I made an offer on my current house (built in 1980) it didn't have one, but I had them put one in as one of the repairs that I requested. My old house which was built in '78 had one, although I have no idea if it was always there or if someone put it in later. And depending on what your sink and counter are like, sometimes it can be hard to add one in unless you're remodelling. I got lucky on this house, the previous owner had some sort of cold filtered water dispenser in the sink, but since the fridge came with cold filtered water I figured I didn't need that twice, so I took that out and had them put the air gap there. But if there hadn't been an extra hole for it, I couldn't have put one in until a few months ago when I got the new sink & countertop.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 19, 2007
3:27 AM

Post #4099656

Ah-ha! Really?? Mine never does that! I wonder what the difference is? Mine goes to the disposal? All mine have gone to the disposal. Wait, the first one didn't and I'm sure the 1 back in the 60's of my moms didn't, but still, no back slush of water. Something isn't right. Don't know what, but something just isn't right. Somethings different between yours and mine. Don't know what, but somethings different.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 19, 2007
3:31 AM

Post #4099682

ecrane, mine is a newer (not even 3 yrs old) kitchen! I don't have a air gap. The house in TN was brand spanking new, no air gap. The house we moved to TN from, built in '82 by us, but brand new kitchen in '97, didn't have 1. But the house in AR of my parents is about 25 yrs (that's just a guess on my part) old and it has 1.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
3:40 AM

Post #4099718

I'm sorry, I have to catch up on posts, but I'm BEHIND doing bedtime.

I just found out at Lowe's I could get LAMINATE OVERLAY in the High Def. DeepStar for 4.17/sf. My friend who flips houses told me they would be happy to help me fit it in!
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
3:42 AM

Post #4099724

Hmmm, no idea why that would be. I really don't think it's just a California thing, I'm pretty sure my house in Ohio had one too. Having things routed through the disposal doesn't make a difference. I shouldn't say that, maybe it does help but I don't think it eliminates the possibility of problems, my old house it was routed through the disposal but I still had an air gap, and it was the same way here, it went through the disposal but the home inspector still said I needed an air gap. Even if you don't have one, chances are you won't have the backflow problem very often (maybe never), the air gap just provides a little extra insurance. I think Robin may have something else going on if she's having icky water backflushing every time she runs the dishwasher.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
4:06 AM

Post #4099785

Well, it stinks when I first start it, then when it gets to the part where I guess it's emptying, I see it shooting out into my disposal. I am not the tidiest person in the world, but I kind of consider a dishwasher to be a "sanitizer" so I usually have very little food left on dishes. They generally come out clean and the inside of the dishwasher is not smellier than any other wet spot with a closed door. ;-)

Oh and if I have a sink full of water and turn on the disposal, it always comes up through the other side of the sink. I have a net strainer in there since the built in X-shaped catch is broken out. (forks, etc could fall straight down it)

Here is a pic of my edge. It's not a huge deal, but just something I wanted to take care of if I'm buying new.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
4:07 AM

Post #4099786

How do you like the cabinets?

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
4:14 AM

Post #4099801

Cabinets are looking great! And that's really exciting about the laminate, so are you going to do it?

For the dishwasher, the water emptying into the disposal is what's supposed to happen, and the water coming up the other sink is also something that happens with garbage disposals, those have nothing to do with having an air gap or not. I'm not sure what causes the stink when you first start it, that might just be old water that was trapped in the pipes and hadn't drained properly.

Here are a couple references that talk about the air gaps. The second one talks about an alternate way of doing the piping out of the dishwasher which will basically have the same effect as having an air gap, and it sounds like the plumbing codes in some areas call for air gaps, but in other areas this other way is OK too. My guess is CA requires the air gaps in the plumbing code but many other states probably don't.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/home_clinic/1275531.html
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/dishwasherinstall
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
4:52 AM

Post #4099860

Ecrane, you rock! Thanks, that was super helpful. It summarized by saying, go ahead and do one if you are installing new fixtures. Something to think about.

Pepper, thanks for the heads up on the acrylic. I had inadvertently chosen two sinks that both happened to be acrylic. Anyone have any more experiences to throw out there? I like the look of stainless, but they seem like they're rarely shiny unless you have just wiped them down. I like the white sinks with either the matte finish or the glossy finish and a "self rimming" edge or undermount.

So what would you guys do? The cheap laminate overlay option? I would probably go to the back of the sink and then do a tile backsplash, also a tile backsplash behind the sink between the counter and the bar. Not sure about the bar, if I should do the tile or the laminate. Too many choices! You guys are my kitchen designer!! ;-D What would you suggest if I were paying you loads of money to figure this all out for me?! lol! (Oh, and I still get a twitchy feeling towards the Silestone or HI-MAC when I think about making money again in a few months. I am sure it will be spent before we even get it in our hands however. lol)

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
5:18 AM

Post #4099897

I just found a helpful article on sink finishes; it did somewhat warn against acrylic sinks.

http://123decorate.com/articles/sink.html
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
5:57 AM

Post #4099926

I found some good info on ConsumerReports.org, but you have to subscribe to get the full recommendations.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/home-garden/kitchen/kitchen-remodeling/sinks/sinks-and-faucets-8-07/overview/0708_sink_ov_1.htm
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 19, 2007
12:54 PM

Post #4100362

Replaced sink, faucet, disposer, and dishwasher in current house.

Sink is deep stainless - not commercial, but 7.5 - 8" deep. Tired of stains in porcelin and chips, and hated the 5" shallow bowls. Looked at Kohler, but could not justify in this house (at the time).

Faucet - replaced Delta with a separate sprayer with an American Standard - switchable from stream to spray, and pulls out to use as a hand sprayer. The Delta sprayer was a mess - smelled bad - low flow, etc. and when the local utility cleaned and switched tanks (once a year) would clog with all the incoming sediment.

Disposer - went with the biggest brute I could get - 777 Badger - corncobs, melon rinds, etc. no problem for this one - But it really destroys any silverware dropped in.

Dishwasher - replaced "builders" Tappen with Maytag. We have had GE, Thermadore, Waste King at other houses, but liked the features and price of the Maytag - no problems in over 10 years.

Need to scrap the corian counter with builtin sinks in the master bath - looks horrible - many cracks around sink drains. Would never have corian again.
the other bathrooms are the same way, but with just single sinks. Really hate them.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 19, 2007
1:58 PM

Post #4100525

I don't have a lot of time...I know on the stainless, there's a number or something that tells you the thickness. You'd want the thickest you can buy. The thin stuff makes your disposer jump and your whole counter jump. Amana was owned by Maytag when I bought my appliances, so my fridge, micro and dishwasher are all Maytag. Amana didn't have a stove I liked, so I went with Maytag. My disposal is a Maytag.

I would really have to go the store to see which sink it was I had in TN. I'm almost positive it was an acrylic 1. By far, and I'm in the minority, my favorite sink is the cast iron. When my plumber came to look at what all he needed to do, I had already bought the sink. He was impressed. He said he preferred the cast iron sinks too. And you're right, the stainless doesn't stay shiny. They look when good and never been wet, but then the water, and whatever is in your water, makes them look not so good. My opinion only.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
2:04 PM

Post #4100544

I've never found a sink I was totally happy with. I had a white porcelain sink at my old house and it always had stains and marks in it, very hard to keep it looking nice. I had to bleach it every couple of weeks to keep it looking decent and I really don't like the smell of bleach. So now I have stainless steel at the new house and I do like it a little better, but it gets water spots on it and it would take so much effort to keep those away that I just don't bother. But I like water marks better than the stains that I always had on the white one.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 19, 2007
2:10 PM

Post #4100562

I'm a tad on the anal side about keeping the sink clean. Always have been. Never had a stain in my sink. I make sure everybody rinses their plate on the disposal side, before dishes are washed, the soapy dishrag cleans it out. I clean it once a week with Ajax with Bleach. The non scratching kind.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 19, 2007
2:13 PM

Post #4100576

With mine the problem might have been that it was it was an old sink when I bought the house, and it had some scratches in it where stains could get stuck--if I would cut up veggies and things like that and the stains would get into the little scratches and wouldn't just rinse away when I shoved the veggie scraps down the disposer, so I'd have to get out the bleach if I wanted to get rid of them.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
3:31 PM

Post #4100835

I posted a perfect example of that above. lol When bleached, the sink looks fine, but the scratches have a porous quality that simply soaking a set of dinner dishes overnight or pouring coffee down the drain without rinsing will make it look horrible. These things happen in my kitchen. One of the articles above spoke highly of granite composite. They really aren't THAT much more expensive than the other options, so I'm thinking about it. There seem to be high and low prices in most all finishes. The article also stated (Consumer Reports) that durability and sound issues were negligible between the various stainless types. (surprising to me, but that's what it said). Another article stated that (as Terry mentioned) the lower the number, the better the sound quality, etc. So 18 gauge is the preferred.

Ok, my son has started throwing up, so I may have more to deal with today than I thought. Ugh!

Will try to get back on later.

Robin :-P
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 19, 2007
4:35 PM

Post #4101057

Hello! So sorry about the sick little one...they hate that!

Here we go!...

When I was picking my sink, I wanted deep and quiet. Especially with the stainless steel sinks, they tend to echo when water hits them. Maybe they make them that don't ,I don't know much about them, but it's a consideration. The depth of the sink helps cut down on the splash factor especially if you want a high standing faucet. I went with a large farm sink with no center divider because I hate to cook. I have some really big pots that I cook in, mass amounts, so I don't have to cook very often. I needed a sink I could wash them in. I also wanted an undermount so I could just brush crumbs right into it. Turned out to be a good idea.

Garbage disposal - I also got the 777 in-sinkerator. I think it's one horsepower. Super quiet with no vibration!

Dishwasher - Got the hoity-toity brand new Bosch. " This one doesn't need an air gap" All the sales people..."doesn't need an air gap!" One less hole cut into my nice new countertop sounded good to me! In Calif. it doesn't matter what the manufacturor says, can't pass inspection without an air gap.

As far as the no interest credit cards...can get you into trouble. Personally, I don't think you yourself would be one of those that does. Just figure out what you think you could pay back in a year, cut that number in half, and that's your budget for that card. Cutting the budget in half is so you have a little breathing room for when the cat gets sick and you have an unexpected vet bill...! Before my DH and I got married, we were selling his old house to buy our new house. (you all get that right?!!). We used one of those credit cards to do some updates on his house before selling it. We knew that we would pay it right back out of the sale of the house a few months later. That plan worked really well.
We did it again when buying the appliances on this house. A little more stressful, but paid it back as fast as we could. Just be very careful and realistic.

Your cabinets look amazing! Fantastic!! And Terryr - I love your house! Did you stain and poly those fantastic door frames?

- Karen

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
5:17 PM

Post #4101213

Hey Karen,

We still need dining room light pics. I cannot BELIEVE that my beautiful chandelier is still sitting in the box. Maybe now that it is cool I can convince my grumpy husband to take down the ceiling fan and put it up "just for the winter" then buy a nicer ceiling fan when it gets hot again. Think that'll work? lol!

So I have two countertop options:
Pay for a new sink and faucet and do the laminate overlay thing and hopefully have it done by Christmas. We don't have a lot of money right now, but I could probably swing it.

Option 2: I would have to live with my vanilla countertops and scratched up sink a bit longer and when I am making money again, do Silestone or LG Viatera, then do an undermount sink. Maybe I could even do a new range at that time and get one that would allow me to choose a fun backsplash.

Hmmm...

After cleaning up baby puke off the dining room carpet this morning, I mentioned to my husband that I am so ready to get some laminate in here. He is considering it, it's just a big job. We would want to do the living room at the same time, so it would be a substantial purchase.

To be perfectly honest with you all, we ALREADY have a large amount of credit card debt. It's not so much that I am a spender, I am actually frugal in many ways, but we have been on a macaroni and cheese budget since college, with just a few breaks here and there, so that is something we really need to get under control. Our needs (and some wants) always seem to be bigger than our income. Wanna hear what we're working with? 35K gross. Doesn't spread very far. lol! So now I expect you all to say - you nut! You need to buy a couple new potholders and call it a day!! ;-D lol!! I guess I'm the classic champagne taste on a beer budget kind of girl. I will say this though, we never got a newer car when we had kids, we couldn't afford it. I had a 2 door for the entire time my daughter was a baby, then when Sam came along, it just was NOT working, so we got a used 4-door Saturn from a family member we are slowly (slowly) paying back. So when I go back to work and we're on our feet a bit, we will start working on paying down debt and getting a small SUV, maybe a Subaru or Ford Escape. I don't buy fancy clothes, I occasionally get some necessities from Target or Old Navy. ALL my shoes are from PayLess. I used to clip coupons, but it was taking waaay too much time, so just get the essentials now. I just got my FIRST haircut since Sam was born (he's 18 months old). So, I guess you could say I'm one of those people that doesn't mind spending money on things that I really really want, but I also can do without if it's something that's not majorly important. If I had gone back to work this year, my paycheck would have had to cover 2 kids in daycare and it would have been pretty pointless. Next year, Mari will be in Kindergarten and Sam will be 2, so I will be ok with putting him in daycare.

Sorry to ramble! Gotta go make lunch!

Thanks so much for all the personal experiences and feedback! Love it! Keep it coming!!!

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 19, 2007
5:39 PM

Post #4101268

Quick question,
Do these knobs look alright?

The reason I ask is, *IF* I were to get a bronzey faucet, or *IF* we upgrade to stainless appliances, would these be the best knobs?

It comes in bronze as well. It is pretty bronzey though. I can't find it online to share a pic. Here's another option as well. Might match the dining light fixture?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=89212-103-BP19320-ORB&lpage=none

I don't like the "birdcage" pulls that go sideways because I always see them askew and it bugs me.

Thumbnail by robin_joey
Click the image for an enlarged view.

digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 19, 2007
6:41 PM

Post #4101504

I think those knobs look great but I would get your faucet first. Also, maybe, if you could, have them be the same finish as the hinges.

Okay, okay! I'll try to figure out how to get my dining room light pics on tonight. I'm not very good at these gadgets! I have the only cell phone that date and time are off. Mine says it's Sept. 26 today and the time is about 3hrs. and 6mins. behind! My friends say I carry my own computer virus!

- Karen
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 20, 2007
12:16 AM

Post #4102502

And as I said way way up there, I don't match my stuff. My ceiling light is oil rubbed bronze, my pulls and knobs are nickel and my faucet is chrome. In TN, my ceiling lights were the brick, my pulls were blackened nickel and my faucet was the burnished bronze (or oil rubbed bronze, I don't remember now). I'm just not a matchy matchy type person. I have a girlfriend, who has to have her couch, love seat and chair in the same pattern. Her end tables and coffee table are all oak. All the same, all boring to my eyes.

I do like the knob you linked to. The cage type one. I'm not a big fan of them, but that knob is very nice.

To be honest, I would do the cheaper laminate and furnishings for this house. For your next house, that you plan to stay in a lot longer, if the kitchen needs updating, I would do it then.

And finally, yes Karen, I refinished the wood. A lot had been done for me, but some wasn't, so I'm doing it. This week-end possibly, I'll tackle that in the back staircase area. Tony took the trim off around the window, so it's just the baseboards I need to do.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 20, 2007
2:22 AM

Post #4102907

I agree with Terry, given your finances and the previous discussion that things like granite, quartz, etc are probably over-improving for your neighborhood, I think you should go for the laminate. It sounds like you can do it for a really great price, and I think it's going to look great and you're going to like it a lot better than what you have now.

In terms of knobs--I wouldn't worry too much about matching. I have a stainless steel sink and someday would love to have SS appliances, but my light fixtures are that aged bronze color and that's the color I plan to do my cabinet pulls too. I wouldn't want to have 10 different metals around, but there's nothing wrong with having a couple different ones.
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 20, 2007
5:53 AM

Post #4103401

I just thought in a smaller space it looks less busy. Not all of my things in my kitchen match either. I wasn't talking about my kitchen, it's a little larger and I have other places for my eyes to rest. Kinda' like a garden. Have to have places for the eyes to rest. When I've gardened on an apartment patio I had to pull in a little so it didn't look insane (not like the yard I have now!) I thought for a kitchen on the smaller side where every detail stands out more, it might look a little more finished.

In my house, I have dining room chairs done in a old arte nouveau tapestry sitting on an american indian rug.
In the next room I have an antique music chest with what we fondly call our Howdy Doody Furniture. That's my house.

Robin - notice what terryr and ecrane wrote. Do you notice the hues? Look for hues. What color are ecranes walls and cabinets, how does that look with the aged bronze? Perfect huh? Yep...perfect. If you don't want to match exactly, look for hues or a style. Is there an age that ties things together. I did a 50's kitchen with a torquise oven once. Didn't put in a modern all in one faucet in that kitchen. Didn't put one in from the 50's either. It was just a feel. Earlier you asked "Do these knobs look alright?" If you don't want to match exactly, go with the same hues. You just can't lose with that. Our hinges on our kitchen cabinets will be chrome and the knobs will be nickel. We're doing same hue and same era...old. Since your kitchen is small and the knob and lower hinge end up at about eye level, I think it might flow better if they matched. Other people won't notice, but you'll see it all the time.

I still think financially, I would get the faucet first. You may end up spending a little more than expected on "THE PERFECT ONE!!!". A good investment. It's much easier to find cheaper knobs you can live with than a faucet.
And last but not least - laminate with an undermount sink if you can swing it!

These are all just my opinions for you! - Karen



ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 20, 2007
3:56 PM

Post #4104244

I could be wrong, but I don't think laminate and undermount sinks go together, I think you need to have tile, stone, or solid surface if you want the undermount sink.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 20, 2007
4:05 PM

Post #4104267

I think the underlaying plywood would warp and swell on an laminate counter. I know water can be the death to a laminate counter. Like using one of those drying racks, but nothing under it and the water just sits there on the laminate. After awhile, the laminate is all warped and nasty looking. Had a neighbor that did that, that's how I know how it reacts.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 20, 2007
4:17 PM

Post #4104296

Yes, that's right, ecrane, or so I've read.

The UNDERMOUNT is one reason a part of me is still hangin' onto the dream of solid surface. ;-) Also, I think if I went with laminate I would want to do a special edge perhaps, but I'm still thinking how important that would really be to me. That would increase the cost. When I look at sinks that have the "wipe the crumbs straight into the sink" feature, I lean more towards waiting to do it right and get Silestone. I really think it will improve the value of the house even though it's not "expected" in our neighborhood. Terry & Ecrane, when you guys recommend I just go with laminate, I totally hear what you're saying, don't get me wrong. ;-) I know it's a gamble of sorts. You know the friend in "When Harry Met Sally"? Sally tries to tell her that the married man she's seeing is never gonna divorce his wife. She groans, "You're right, you're right, I KNOW you're right." But it isn't what she wants to hear. ;-)

I really lately have been thinking that in all reality, we may be here quite a while before we can move up to a bigger place, with our finances in order for a higher mortgage. Chances are, I won't be ripping out whatever is in our next home, so I may never get a chance to have my quartz! lol!

One thing I did think about though that leans me towards the laminate is that we could remove the computer counter and keep it in the attic and maybe install it in our next home in Joey's office, so he would have a matching desk (where he put some of the laminate on the top surface) and counter. Then we could have the kitchen and dining match. I think that would be great. That wouldn't happen with Silestone.

Thanks, Karen for the tips on the handles. I am thinking bronze is growing in popularity and especially if I go with the laminate countertops, I should capitalize on that warm "browns/creams/beiges/bronzes" hue, just like you said. :-) If I were to do quartz, one of their Grade A (cheapest) options is called Diana Pearl and would go better with the rustic pewters, I think.

If I do laminate, I'll probably get a cream colored self-rimming sink and bronzey/black faucet and handles.

If I do solid surface, I'll probably get a stainless undermount sink and pewter/black faucet and handles.

I really appreciate all the advice, everyone. It's so great to have the feedback. :-) I truly wish we could all go out to lunch or something!! lol!

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 20, 2007
4:19 PM

Post #4104304

Now Terry, there's proof that you can write a really short post and still post at the same time as someone else! lol!!

Yeah, all the specs on both the laminate counters as well as the sinks specify that laminate won't work.

See, Karen, that's the problem! It's just *TOO* much work to wipe crumbs off the counter and into the sink! I really NEED an undermount, don't I?? ;-) lol
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 20, 2007
4:50 PM

Post #4104379

If your sink is mounted correctly, meaning the caulk around the sink, you don't get anything in under it. It just doesn't happen. I still say that the caulk around your sink as gone away. That's why you're having such a problem with crumbs under it. I've never had an undermount sink and I've never wanted one. My mom has the fancy blunt edge on her counters with a wood look trim along it. It's blunt up top too. Differently than mine, but not being there, I can't remember what it is. I like the rounded. The blunt edge doesn't do much for me.

I don't think having Silestone in your kitchen makes it "doing it right". 9 out 10 people don't have Silestone or an undermount sink. Heck, around here and thinking of my friends kitchens, 10 out of 10 don't have Silestone (or Quartz, or Corian, or or or) or an undermount sink.

I'm inclined to think that even if you are in your house longer than planned, having Silestone or Quartz or Granite is still over improving for your neighborhood and just isn't worth the cost of doing it. If you're in this house for another 25 yrs and can really enjoy it, then heck, go for it. I'm still thinking that if somebody has Silestone, Quartz or Granite, they're not going to have builder stock cabinets painted to look better. They're going to rip them out. Am I wrong? Do people that have such an expensive counter paint the builder stock cabinets? Do you understand what I'm saying? And I'm not saying that painting your cabinets is bad, I just want you to keep in line with what you've got and what the neighborhoods got.

Every once in awhile, I do get lucky and am able to post while somebody else is typing. Doesn't happen much though.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 20, 2007
5:19 PM

Post #4104452

Yes, I think painting these cabinets is a bit like putting them on life support, just to give them a little more life, but in all reality, I don't think they're going to last forever like this. They'll have to be replaced if someone wants a nice kitchen for the long haul.

I totally hear what you're saying on the overimprovement philosophy. I just am thinking that maybe for the "wow factor" or upgrade that it provides, maybe it's worth the extra $1,500 or so and they will last the life of the house. I don't think many people are into buying a place (especially at this price point) and going in and ripping things out to make it their own, so whatever I install is likely to be there a very very long time. I just want to make sure it's a very good choice. I guess I look at it as, no it's not a very expensive house, but putting in some "luxury" touches here and there put it above the crowd. Granite is becoming more affordable and "expected" to new home buyers. Not 100% expected, just more and more common. Even some luxury apartments are installing them. I just think a nice countertop is such a permanent fixture, it should be as quality as you can go, to last the life of the house. But how high can I go?? lol!

Hey, ecrane, I've heard your kitchen mentioned a few times and have somehow missed the pics. Wanna share or direct me to a pic?? :-)

Here's a discussion I found when I tried to search reviews on Wilsonart.
http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1561173&page=2

Robin ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 20, 2007
6:31 PM

Post #4104612

If you scroll back up to Sep 6th in this thread, you'll see before & after pics of the kitchen at my old house. That's the one where I had laminate counters and never got around to replacing them, but I painted the cabinets cream and the walls red.

And this thread has before and after shots of my current kitchen. The "after" shots aren't truly "after" since I'm still planning to paint the cabinets and put pulls on them, but this is what it looks like now.
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/753695/

I also want to throw in my 2 cents on sweeping crumbs into the sink...I had a regular sink at my old house, and never had that much trouble sweeping crumbs over the little metal ridge and into the sink. I guess it took a little more effort than sweeping them into the undermount sink, but it's hardly a big enough difference to justify spending 10x as much for the countertops! I'm with Terry, I think you just need some more caulk on there or something, then things shouldn't get stuck.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 20, 2007
9:18 PM

Post #4105006

Does anyone have a "self rimming" sink they would recommend? Maybe I should look for "tile in"??
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 20, 2007
11:33 PM

Post #4105366

I was reading this thread with my DH last night and I was gushing over how great your cabinet doors look. They really came out beautiful. You really have done a great job! I would be proud to have those cabinets whether my counters were granite, silestone, decoupage, or whatever!

I thought laminate and undermount could be done. I guess not. I wouldn't go 10x the price for crumbs either if I were you! I thought the combo existed and could be done for your budget.

Now let me be the devils advocate for just a minute here...
We've all heard that kitchens and bathrooms are what sells a house.
I don't think just a nice counter top is going to knock you out of the neighborhood. You are not in a slum. Someone looking in that neighborhood has always wanted granite or silestone or whatever and just like you, is willing to pay a little more for it. Now if you added extra fireplaces, steam shower...you might have a problem! If you are going to stay there for a few years and you could come up with the money, make it something you love.

I don't know anything about drop in sinks but I'm hearing caulking is important! LOL
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 20, 2007
11:45 PM

Post #4105408

I agree. I'm not doing new cabinets, (over $10k??) I'm just considering a "nice" countertop and I think it would be a real selling feature. I know I could 100% get by WITHOUT doing it. I know for sure it's not expected, but I think it's kind of nice when you see a house with a cool landscaped yard and a water feature when none of the other houses have them, etc. I think it would make our house stand out. I do know there is a house about 2 or 3 blocks away that recently advertised brand new granite countertops in their kitchen, but for some reason there was no photo of the house in the ad. Hmm? Makes one wonder what's up with that? (There were photos of about every other room.)

You know, when I bought my first car in 1998, my Dad really encouraged me to lease. I was worried that, knowing me, I'd go over the mileage required and owe a bunch of money. Well, I decided I would rather put in the money and then OWN the car at the end of 4 years instead of have to give it back to the dealership and assume a whole new set of payments. Well, that is now my husband's work car and no monthly car payments is one of the things that has allowed us to have me stay home during this time. My Dad later said that he had lots of friends who just decided they always wanted to drive a new car and traded in from time to time to get another new one. I'm not like that. That's renting a car in my opinion. If I were to put expensive countertops in this house, I would sort of be "renting" them for the privilege of enjoying them while we're here and hopefully they would help up the value of the house some when we leave. If NOTHING else, they would help move it faster I would guess, even if we don't get the $ back on our selling price. But again, we only paid 75K and I could be naive here, but I'm confident we could get at least 95K right now, maybe more when the new high school opens up and the market improves a bit.

More rambling.

Ecrane, thank you, I'm trying to sand the cabinets out on the back porch whle my kiddos are napping, I will find your kitchen pics in a bit.

Terry, how is your project coming?? When I've been wearing my face mask, I've thought of you!!!!!!

R.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 21, 2007
12:03 AM

Post #4105474

You're right that it might help the house move faster when you sell it (if you don't overprice it hoping to get extra money for the granite!). If I remember, it was going to cost you close to $3K to do the solid surface? Your house isn't going to sell for $98K instead of $95K because it has granite or solid surface counters instead of a nice laminate, in that price range I think you'd be really lucky to get $1K back at most, but even that depends on whether you're already near the top of the price range for your neighborhood, what else is on the market when you go to sell, etc. But if you have your house on the market for $95K and there's a virtually identical house also for sale asking $95K but they just have a nice laminate instead, your house would probably sell quicker than theirs. It's really one of those things where if you're doing it for yourself, then get whatever countertops are going to make you the happiest. But if you're doing it to maximize the return on your investment, then laminate is your best bet, you'll get much more of that money back. If you're still not sure, you could always talk to a realtor who sells homes in your neighborhood, they should be able to give you a good idea how much extra you could expect if you put in granite/solid surface vs laminate. Digatunnel and I come from the weird world of California where even a lot of starter homes cost a half million dollars, so a $3K granite countertop will pay for itself pretty much no matter what, but in a lot of the rest of the country it's a different story!

psychw2

psychw2
(Pat) Kennewick, WA
(Zone 5b)

October 21, 2007
12:12 AM

Post #4105504

Ecrane, I looked at your pics that you had the link here to, they are great! Thanks for sharing. Amazing how different your kitchen looked.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 21, 2007
12:54 AM

Post #4105630

Oh dear, I don't think I can view them b/c I'm no longer a subscriber! I can see a thumbnail of the Before pic.

Terry must be up to her neck in drywall!!
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 21, 2007
1:05 AM

Post #4105661


I wish money wasn't such an issue in redecorating!!!!! If I could, I'd rip out my granite countertops that I never wanted and put them on Greyhound for $35.00 and send them to you! Then all you would have to do is have them cut. Oh, I'm sorry, the more expensive word is fabricated! LOL Hey, try Craigs List for countertops in your area. There has to be someone out there like me! Also, check for granite outside of box stores. Look in the paper, phone book...etc. You might find one that has much lower prices because they are not a national chain. Local may cater to local prices. Sniff some of these guys out. Try to find it super cheap. Then, that's how much it costs.

Go see the other house when they have an open house. When we were rebuilding our house, we went to open houses all the time to make sure we weren't pricing ourselves out of the neighborhood.

Alas Ecrane you're right. We spend an outrageous amount of money to own real estate out here. It really is crazy. It may not be so easy to get back all of your investment on the granite or silestone.

You keep mentioning the cost involved. Look at a day in your life - your families, and in the long run it's not going to matter what you pick. But financially it will. You wanted a light, fresh kitchen. Just keep going with that. Laminate has come a long way! They really should make up a new name for it, I think it would sell better! If you can't afford the granite right now, so what! I don't use french she-she soap either! Make a really nice kitchen for your kids to grow in. That usually includes something like cookies, not granite! LOL

You are such a sweetie and trying so hard - I hope you find your granite.
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 21, 2007
2:07 AM

Post #4105878

Robin--you can still see the one set of kitchen pics in this thread (scroll up to Sep. 6th). That was at my old house, where even though it was a half million dollar starter home I never ended up replacing the laminate counters!

Since you can't see the after shot in my other thread about my current kitchen, here it is:

Thumbnail by ecrane3
Click the image for an enlarged view.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 21, 2007
2:17 AM

Post #4105922

Ecrane, I found your Sept. 6th post showing your kitchen before and after. Wow, that was a BEAUTIFUL red! Really upgraded the room a ton!! What would you have done to the counters and the floors had you stayed there? I know I saw those pics before, but it looks like I never commented. Sometimes so much is being said, I can't keep up!!

Ok, Terry, did you pass out from exhaustion and drywall inhalation?! :-P
Let us know how it's going at your house!

I got the uppers completely sanded, first with medium, then with fine. Doing the edges takes forever because all this gunky old poly comes through and ruins the sandpaper (after a while) and takes a long time to get smooth. I can start priming tonight! Kids were kind of sick today and slept a lot, so they're off schedule and will probably go to bed late. Sigh . . . I'll do what I can though.

Supposedly mother-in-law is visiting Tuesday. YIKES!

R.

ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 21, 2007
2:24 AM

Post #4105951

If I had stayed at the old house, I probably would have got the granite counters like I did in my current house. For the floors I'm not sure--if I had decided to just do the kitchen then I would have done ceramic tile, but I had plans to rip up the carpet and put down hardwood throughout the whole house, and if I had gone with that approach then the kitchen would have ended up with hardwood too. Then when I decided to sell, I almost ended up putting down peel & stick stone-look vinyl tiles over top of the old vinyl. I had the stuff bought and everything, but then the colors in it didn't go as well as I would have liked with the faux-wood Formica, so I returned them and left the vinyl as-is.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 21, 2007
2:39 AM

Post #4105990

Drywalling is done! Dust is still here ;( Hubby wanted to go out since it was such a beautiful day and try to work on the fence on the street side. Worked on that till 6:30pm. This dust is driving me insane. I'm afraid to dust. Plaster is so scratchy and gritty. How do I dust? I can't just vacuum it off...found out the hard way long long ago that the brush attachment scratches the finish on the wood. And the floor. My beautiful maple hardwood floor has a layer of plaster dust on it. No matter how much I vacuum, I can't get it all up. Try to mop and my water is black after 1 swipe. Ho hum. Not grumpy, teary ;( I'm overwhelmed. Calgon isn't going to take me away.

If you were staying in this house for quite some time, I'd have no problem with what ever counter top you want. But you aren't. And I, like most buyers, have my own taste. You might spend a fortune on granite and in walks somebody like me, who doesn't "appreciate" the granite. Doesn't get it. And maybe I don't like the pattern. And I'm not paying any more than a comp in your area just because you have granite. Upgrading from a counter put in in '87 is a huge improvement right there. Upgrading your ceiling lights from the builders package is huge improvement. Knocking off the popcorn from the ceiling is a huge improvement. You need to think along those lines. Not necessarily the more $$ you spend, but just that you've thought enough of your home to get rid of the basic builder blah.

I see these shows. Put on a new deck and improve by $10k! Install a new kitchen, adds $20k! Redo the bath and add $15K!! Landscape adds on 15%!! Phooey. Maybe in California, but not here.

Don't depend on a new HS bringing in more people wanting to live in your house, your neighborhood. The town before TN consolidated with 4 other towns and built a brand new HS. We heard, it's going to lower real estate taxes! Phooey. It cost us $1500 more!! That house might as well of been a brand new house since everything was only 5-7 yrs old. Mature landscaping to boot. $78k, that was all it sold for. That was in '03!! Updated everything. And I do mean everything. Only thing the same were walls, ceilings, toilet, shower and siding. That's it. Everything else was new. Everything.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 21, 2007
4:00 AM

Post #4106193

Terry, I know you're the voice of experience on that topic and I'm so sad that you had to say goodbye to that house you improved so much for less than what it was worth. That just sucks. :-( I'm glad your new house is enjoying your "love" so much though!

If it makes you feel any better, I will probably do Wilsonart HD and love it. I would REALLY love Silestone, and I COULD do that, but I will probably choose not to. Somehow just giving myself permission then deciding it's not in my best interest is so much easier to swallow than telling myself I CAN'T. lol! Guess I've had to play psychologist with myself.

Our kid's babysitter got a new silver SUV. Made me a bit depressed. lol That's something I will definitely want asap when I go back to work, so if I can do the kitchen with new sink, faucet, flooring, countertops (laminate!), then maybe we can do the computer counter in the same thing and have that cohesion and maybe spend some money on laminate floors throughout the entire living and dining area. Oh and I want to redo our master bathroom. If I REALLY had some money burnin' a hole in my pocket I would like to replace our worn out, foggy, sliding glass doors with French doors. Oh and our bedroom needs a new window. Those are the big projects I would like to do and then just a bit of paint here and there (our fence, etc.)

I appreciate so much all the help you guys have given me. As I know I've said, my husband seems more irritated than impressed with my little projects, so it's awesome to come on here and have folks like Karen and others tell me they love what I've done so far!

Ok, back to work!

R. ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 21, 2007
4:09 AM

Post #4106214

We all think you're doing great Robin--don't let your hubby get you feeling down!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 21, 2007
5:14 AM

Post #4106358

Thanks, Ecrane! That is so appreciated!

Ugh...my 4 yo daughter just threw up all over her bed. It is 12:15 and I just got both kids to sleep. Phew!! Don't know about the priming after all. lol

I hope I don't get whatever they've had ~ hubby isn't home until late tomorrow night!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 21, 2007
6:32 AM

Post #4106419

Here's an interesting thread about kitchen design:

http://www.chowhound.com/topics/419695
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 21, 2007
6:44 AM

Post #4106422

After searching, I found some Consumer Reports info:

http://consumersmarts.ivillage.com/home/2007/08/
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 21, 2007
10:21 AM

Post #4106525

Robin - I love the link to chowhound. Thank you for that. So much of that is true. Some great ideas in there. I will always agree with make it yours. But if you're going to sell anytime soon, make it yours in a way that you can undue anything really obscure quickly and easily! LOL I've told a many a landlord "Nothing that a little paint can't fix!" I've painted alot!

When I was doing my kitchen my friends would say "ooooooostainless." I like white. I think it looks clean and fresh. My stove - an old O'Keefe & Merritt. (There's a place here that redoes the hoses and gas lines, thermostat...so it's safe.) I bake bread. I like rolling and kneading for some reason. The stove I grew up with was the best one I ever made bread in. So I got the same thing! It also has that great griddle in the middle of the stove for pancakes. Now my friends say "ooooooooopancakes."

When doing our kitchens we all picked our battles whether it be with money or DH's that suddenly think they're decorators -"Honey! I saw your house! You are not a decorator!", contractors...the list goes on. Just make it nice. Make it clean and fresh and new. NEW is such a great thing. It breathes life back into things. And make it yours. All of your choices have been beautiful so don't worry about a thing. Now I'm looking at that Wilsonart and am liking what I see!

Just a note, my gardner drove up the other day in a brand new sparkly torquise Volvo. I'm driving a 1988 4-runner. Ha! God bless him! Good for him!

-Karen
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 21, 2007
3:07 PM

Post #4107011

Have you heard the word "hoopty"? Not sure on spelling, but I think you get the pronunciation of it. 3 more months and mine is considered a hoopty. I have a '98 Mustang. My baby. I've had cars bought for me that were used and cars given to me that were used, but for me (us) to buy a used car? Never. Till I saw that Mustang back in spring of '00. Barely 14,000 miles on it when I bought it. I've taken care of my "girl" and she's never let me down. Would love to have a full size pick-up, would love to have a Jeep Liberty. But man oh man. We have my baby and hubby drives a '03 Ford Ranger. Both paid for. I like it that way, I must admit. Now when my sister drives up in her new something or other BMW, well, my stang still looks better...lol.

Yes, Robin, it does make me feel better to know that you're going with something that is quite nice, just not extravagant and I think of Quartz or Granite or or or as being extravagant. I wouldn't wish our first experience with our first house on anybody. We're only talking we sold it 4 yrs ago and I had heard all about comps and all that, but then you get me, with a house that's basically brand new and those same comps apply to me? How? Why? It did warm my heart though the next year after we sold, back for a visit with the neighbor and I walked over. I'm not afraid to admit I said who I was outside, then was invited inside. I took one step inside and I burst out crying. I was "home". Went into the kitchen and just cried harder. Don't get me wrong. I LOVE this house. It's everything I always wanted in a house, but just couldn't afford when we built that first house. I was only 23 yrs old when we built it. I had our daughter shortly after moving into that house. She grew up in that house. I grew up in that house...well, I sort of grew up in that house...lol. I definitely aged in that house. I've always made a house my house. I don't have tons of experience in that department, since this is just our 3rd house in 26 yrs. Back to this house, I love it, but it sure has been a lot of work. It still is a lot of work. I was told yesterday that my hobby was working on this house. And it's coming along. Not a lot more to do to finally finish up the repairs needed. But! It's not our first home. Every time I walked in the door, I knew I was home. I haven't found that feeling again. I do feel more home here than I ever did at the house in TN though. I worked my butt off down there making that my house too. It's not that I'm too old to move, it's that I've never lived anywhere but good ole Bureau County and being in TN was more than just a culture shock.

The builder in TN was always telling me how to decorate. Even his wife. "But white is in!" "Your dark colors aren't in at all!" I told them they had no clue what was in. And a bunch of other things that I won't repeat here ☺

I guess I am so lucky in the husband department! I tell him what I want to do and he asks me what he should do to start. He basically stands back and helps along the way. He's never said a negative thing towards anything I've done. Even that time I decided I really should have a border there and 6 months later I hated that border because well, I hate borders and wallpaper in general. So I told him it really needed to come down. He wasn't happy, but he helped me remove it. Then agreed and admitted he never liked it to begin with...lol. He's the kind of guy, that if I like it, he's going to like it too. He's outside right now painting that lower part of the gable. The dentil molding in something or other pumpkin and the above and below on the new board, Hale Navy. And NO! Nobody can have him! He's mine mine mine!!!

How far is California from here? Don't tell Karen, but I'm on my way to steal her stove. Can you imagine that stove in this old house? Awesome! I looked into the period new appliances they have, but the stove was something like 3 grand? Might of been more, it's been awhile and it was so high, I think I blocked it out...lol.

I do agree with the "new" breathing new life into your home. It just makes such a world of difference. And let's face it, builder grade crap is just that. You're going to be amazed at what a new laminate countertop looks like in your kitchen with your newly painted kitchen cabinets and a new sink and faucet and the new paint on the walls. Add in a floor and you're going to think you walked into the wrong house! When I changed out the pulls on the cabinets in TN, replaced the sink and faucet, the guys that were finishing the basement came up and were simply amazed at how different it looked. How much better it looked. After I'd painted my Hot Apple Spice on the walls, oh my, you should of heard them! When the basement was done. Walls painted, flooring done, window gone, door in it's place, big storage closet added in, way cool drop ceiling put in (did you know there was such a thing?), ceiling fans put up...done, the contractor (not the builder) told me I'd missed my calling...lol. I must say though, I spoke with the builder last spring and he was certainly surprised we got more than $30k over what we paid for it in just 17 months! Then he thanked me, because he upped the going prices on the houses he was building...lol.

You are doing great Robin! Don't let hubby tell you otherwise!
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

October 24, 2007
4:01 PM

Post #4118545

Hey Robin! Any updates?
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 24, 2007
4:35 PM

Post #4118678

Gosh Karen, I was wondering the same thing! Robin, where are you???
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 24, 2007
7:20 PM

Post #4119227

We were sick for several days. It wasn't pretty. lol

I was just about ready to prime the cabinets when I got sick. We are better now, and I will try and do it today. Thanks for checking in on me guys! ;-)

Karen, did you figure out how to post pics yet? ;-D
Terry, how are things coming along at your house? :-)

Better go and be productive while I have the energy!

R.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 24, 2007
7:27 PM

Post #4119258

Tell me what you would think of this in terms of functionality?

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/American-Standard-7510-103-Culinaire-Top-Mount-Dual-Level-Kitchen-Sink-with-Drain-Board-Stainless-Steel/41605/Cat/1135

What I'm ideally looking for is a place to hide/soak dirty dishes, at the same time, clear plates/leftovers into the disposal, and a drain area, which is at the bottom of my priority list. We have such limited counter space, I was trying to find a sink which would maybe have an integrated drainboard, so in a pinch, I could prepare a sandwich or set a plate in the "drain"area if it's not in use.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 24, 2007
7:29 PM

Post #4119261

Here's another intriguing design:

http://designerplumbingoutlet.com/bl511739.html?productid=bl511739&channelid=NEXTA
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 24, 2007
8:18 PM

Post #4119451

The American Standard is a beautiful sink!

There are some double sinks that have a separate part that can serve as a cutting board over either side if you need to conserve counter space.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 24, 2007
8:52 PM

Post #4119568

Robin, sure hope you're feeling a lot better! Just take it easy till you're feeling 100%. Do you ever get a flu shot? I got mine yesterday. I've been getting them for about 8 yrs now. Ever since the doc suggested our daughter get one. Every year she got sick, got dehydrated and ended up being hospitalized. The second year, I figured I'd go ahead and get one too.

I've never ever seen a sink like that! It's one I'd sure have to see to really get an idea of what it really looks like and how it works. FWIW, I have a wood cutting board that has "side handles" on it that can be easily set on the sink and I can prepare a sandwich or cut veggies. It also hides what's in the sink.

Tony's here sanding the drywall. I think he's got 1 more coat to do. John and I were going to skim coat the hallway, but we forgot to buy the joint compound. It's 40 miles round trip to get it, so I only go after I get more on my list that I need from that towns businesses. The painters are here. I thought they were going to have to drive over all my shrubs on the north side of the house, because they couldn't get close enough with the boom to reach it. O.k. Tony was here, but he just walked out the door and got into his pick-up. Hmm...I hate it when a worker never says a word, just leaves. Anyway, they finally got the truck in there, only having to drive over 2 perennials. Whew. One gable down, 2 more to go! We got half the fence done on the side street side of the house. I need 2x4's sistered in, the pickets are already done and ready to be put up. My (our) daughter keeps asking when I'm going to get that spare bedroom done so I can go and get my other computer. She got a laptop for Christmas last year, but she wants to play games and it doesn't have enough something or other to hold a ton of games like she'd like it to. I'd love to just go away and some little fairies come in and finish up the house for me. sigh. Almost 3 yrs of doing this is getting really really old.
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 25, 2007
12:53 AM

Post #4120384

We have been here 10 yrs and are still working on our house. lol. i know how you feel. We got burned out after a year and took a break. We now do things in small steps. Next steps are finish trim, redo kitchen, move one door, make one smaller, and replace carpet. Oh and windows and siding to be replaced. We already have the siding, just need a few other things and time to do it.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 25, 2007
10:26 PM

Post #4123425

Hi all,

Well, I wasn't able to find the exact design I wanted in a stainless, and really was afraid of constant spotty looking sink, so upon further research, I think I have narrowed down my sink option! It's cheaper than what I had been finding in the stainless designs (the ones I was interested in at least.)

I had read in one of the articles above that composite granite is your best bet. I think the DeepStar Bronze with a black sink would look really nice. Thoughts?

Now I need to decide on the dimensions. Which one would appeal to you the most?

http://www.vidavici.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=6216

or

http://www.faucetdepot.com/faucetdepot/productdetail.asp?link={0E51C2BD-FB62-4ECF-B622-5E3330559B5B}&Product=10768&productlist=true&CategoryName=Kitchen&CategoryId=1&SubCategoryId=10&SubCategoryName= Sinks&ProductCategoryName=Sinks Composite&ProductCategoryId=211

I'm thinking this faucet would look nice, but it's pricey and maybe I'll find a brushed stainless or satin nickel I like as well.
http://www.vidavici.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct= 13467

Gotta take my daughter to preschool.

Robin ;-D
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 25, 2007
10:26 PM

Post #4123429

My internet was messed up. That didn't post until hours later. Hmm.

I'm going with a friend to a few homes in the Parade of Homes tonight! Fun!!
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

October 26, 2007
12:56 AM

Post #4123960

I like the first one for looks and the second one for convience. lol. Our sink is the same size on both sides and it works great. But we don't have a dishwasher either which I REALLY hate!! So we have to have it the same size so it can hold the pans.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 26, 2007
3:22 AM

Post #4124452

Well, we actually DO have a dishwasher, so I was thinking it would be nice while soaking dishes in sudsy water, it might be nice to have another drain, but kind of as a "secondary" one. I am liking the first one. I have heard the "super single" is popular, since you can immerse whole cookie sheets, etc., but I don't know if I would miss a second drain or not.

Thanks for the input, Pepper!

It was awesome seeing some of the Parade of Homes today. I have talked hubby into going this weekend. :-D

Terry, I definitely need a flu shot! We've talked about it, just not done it. I've had them the last few years even though I've been pregnant, they are still recommended.

I need to go before I run out of energy to get some work done!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 26, 2007
3:22 AM

Post #4124453

Well, we actually DO have a dishwasher, so I was thinking it would be nice while soaking dishes in sudsy water, it might be nice to have another drain, but kind of as a "secondary" one. I am liking the first one. I have heard the "super single" is popular, since you can immerse whole cookie sheets, etc., but I don't know if I would miss a second drain or not.

Thanks for the input, Pepper!

It was awesome seeing some of the Parade of Homes today. I have talked hubby into going this weekend. :-D

Terry, I definitely need a flu shot! We've talked about it, just not done it. I've had them the last few years even though I've been pregnant, they are still recommended.

I need to go before I run out of energy to get some work done!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 26, 2007
3:46 AM

Post #4124524

You need more than one hole for the faucet you like. I'm not sure about black and here's why...our water has a lot of who-know-what in it that Not rust, but perhaps too much lime. Just not sure. I'm afraid the black wouldn't look very good for long. Like the stainless shows water spots, my thinking is that the black would too. My moms sink is a gray with black. Shows nothing. They also have a water softener with well water. How's your water? Would that be an issue?

This is the first I've been on here since this morning and I don't have a clue why I'm on now! I really need to go find my bed before I fall asleep at the keyboard ☺
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

October 26, 2007
3:56 AM

Post #4124554

I agree, I think black is going to show spots even worse than the stainless steel unless you have very soft water.

As far as the faucet you like in the last link--I know I saw things similar to that when I was faucet shopping at Lowes a few months ago, and theirs were probably about half the price if not even a little less. So I'd definitely shop around.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 26, 2007
4:00 PM

Post #4125816

Hey guys! Thanks for the input.

Here's the discussion I found on the Blanco silgranit anthracite sinks. People swear by them, but I'm sure all experiences are different. Our water is pretty average, we do not have a softener, but don't have major issues with buildup either.

I looked at faucets at Lowe's and HD and the only ones I have found in the bronzey look are the Price Pfister brand which Bubba discouraged me from going with. ;-) Also, they look a little more traditional with the crooked "old fashioned" spout. I like the gooseneck look more. I hope I can find an affordable one I like. I do a lot of "window shopping" online, but usually won't buy it unless I've at least seen it in person. Do you guys think a bronzey faucet like that would look nice or would a brushed stainless look better?

I am surprised at myself for sticking to my countertop decision for at least a few days now!! lol!! After seeing the beautiful countertops in the Parade of Homes sites yesterday, I am still excited about my laminate countertops. My favorite is still Silestone, but it will have to be a "someday" thing for me. The big factors are that we can replace the computer counter and have that cohesion I was really going for. I'm excited about that. I wonder how the hi-def is as a writing surface?? Hmmmm...

I tried to get husband to talk to me about which of my "projects" he is interested in and which he is not. He says he does want to add cabinetry above the computer counter. That's good, but to do it right, it might be a while and we'll have to shop for something that looks great and is the perfect balance between "office look" and "dining room hutch" look. Also, I'm debating whether at that point I should paint the red color on the bottom cabinets, which means I would then paint the new upper cabinets. They don't sell the same exact basic oak finish that we bought the lower cabs in, they are selling a darker version now. Of course, they still offer white and totally natural.

He also says he picked up a card from some guys who were doing a tile job at his work and he sounds like he is all for redoing our master bath, but I want to add a tub, (it's a standing shower now) and he DOES NOT. We'll have to discuss that. He thinks that work is too extensive. I think I'd rather build up those walls with some good insulation because I'll bet whatever is in there is really skimpy. It's always cold/hot in there.

Next he is in favor of maybe laying tile in the kitchen and MAYBE the dining area, but he says he wants to sell this house with the living room carpet just like it is. GROSS. I feel like carpet this old is like wearing the same pair of socks for a decade. Blech! I will probably tile the kitchen floor and hope to get him to go with Brazilian cherry laminate further down the road. I would probably suggest a large square of "Flor" brand carpet tiles to create a soft centering in the living area.

Ok, I have a problem ALREADY with the cabinet doors. I know I have slowed down in my progress and I need to get these suckers FINISHED and HUNG, but...I have knicks already. Like down to the wood. I'm really surprised, but mostly disappointed. I took one of the doors with me when I went out to lunch with a girlfriend to show them to her and I tossed one of the knobs on it when I got in the car and instant knick. :-( I don't want to have to be that careful. I may do another coat of glaze to add a bit more texture before I put on the final poly coats. I am mad at myself for taking so long on this!

Last question ~ What to do with this alcove above the dining room light??
I don't think the ceiling looks "finished". I considered doing a slightly darker shade of either the green or beige wall colors. Maybe even graduating up from a darker tone around the perimeter and then the lighter color on the uppermost portion. Is this making any sense?

Well, better run! Yea! It's FRIDAY!!

Robin ;-D
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

October 26, 2007
4:09 PM

Post #4125834

I like the 1st sink and REALLY like the faucet with it.

If DH insists on carpet when you sell - replace it then - carpet is about the cheapest and quickest floor covering you can do.

For floor tile - what are you thinking about? Ceramic, wood, CVT, vinyl?
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 26, 2007
4:31 PM

Post #4125904

I'm dreaming of DuraCeramic. Opinions?

I was quoted $4.61/sf and in my 4x8 kitchen, I think I could do it for under $200, even with cushion for extras. Sounds like a lot, but I just don't want to do laminate in the kitchen. I am too fond of letting those dropped ice cubes sit where they fall and don't always catch spills, etc. It's such a small area, I think a nice large tile laid on the diagonal would look really nice. BUT, I don't want a cold tile. I am always freezing in the winter, so the slightly warmer DuraCeramic would help with that. If we like it, we could extend it to the bathrooms.

Thanks a bunch for your input on the sinks!! ;-D

Gotta go bathe these kiddlies!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 26, 2007
4:35 PM

Post #4125923

On the alcove...with the wood, right? If it is, I'd paint the first part, ceiling to the outer wood 1 shade darker than the walls. From the outer wood, just to the most inner wood would be another shade darker. The most inner wood and in the area where the light hangs, I'd do the darkest shade. You have to put the color strip to the wall to see if 1 shade is good enough or if you need to go darker, maybe a couple shades instead of 1. I'm thinking either which would look good, but to stand there with the color chips would make it easier. Does that make sense?

I borrowed your photo of the alcove above, where I think you're talking. I didn't have many colors to choose from, so I went from a light gray, darker gray to black to give you an idea.

Thumbnail by terryr
Click the image for an enlarged view.

terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

October 26, 2007
4:53 PM

Post #4125970

Does the 4x8 include under the dishwasher and stove? You'll want to do at least under the stove. I'm not sure about the dishwasher...might raise it up to high.

I'm not familiar with DuraCeramic flooring, but obviously others are ☺ I found this link that's really worth reading
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/flooring/msg071049016621.html
and everybody has differing opinions in this thread too
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/flooring/msg0814062628576.html?30

You're on a slab, correct? They say that the DuraCeramic is 80% limestone, so the coolness is still in there. I don't know Robin, read what they say.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

October 26, 2007
5:22 PM

Post #4126018

Hey, Terry,

I'm posting at the same time as you. I will definitely read what you have to say above.
Oh, and Karen, I see that I totally missed one of your posts above around the time ecrane was sharing kitchen pics earlier posted. Sorry! I'll have to go back and reread when my kids are not around!!

Here is the link that I forgot to add when I was talking about the anthracite sink:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1020353414204.html


http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0808445117088.html

Will be back in a bit!!
R.
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

November 7, 2007
4:15 PM

Post #4167668

I got super busy for a few days and now everybodys gone. Where'd ya' all go?
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 7, 2007
4:57 PM

Post #4167873

I'm still here...waiting...waiting...waiting...waiting...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 7, 2007
7:14 PM

Post #4168251

omg, guys, I cannot BELIEVE how badly I am dragging my feet. I swear, this project has been out in the living room for weeks now and I am chipping away at it slowly, but by the end of the evening, I am pooped and have gotten very little done. I did try to go and "touch up" some knicked spots before doing the poly coats and made the situation worse, so that was an issue too.

But I hope to have some cabs HUNG tonight. I promise to post pics as soon as possible!

Oh, last weekend, we went and looked at DuraCeramic. Sigh...I totally decided to go for it, THEN, after talking to a salesperson at Lowe's (NOT on commission, like the other guy) and also playing with the tile, decided against it. Right now, we are looking to do porcelain tile in the kitchen and the bathroom I painted earlier. Then maybe next spring, tear out carpet in the living/dining/hall and lay some Brazilian Cherry laminate. :)

That's the update for now!

I have to wrap this up soon, because I keep stuffing my face with Halloween candy as I work! AAH!! lol!

Robin ;-P
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

November 8, 2007
1:27 AM

Post #4169453

Quit stalling and get on it!! Then you want to worry about it no more. lol
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

November 12, 2007
1:12 PM

Post #4184838

Well hey there!

Don't worry about the nicks so badly. You're probably the only one who can see them. Once everything is up, you'll probably have a hard time finding them. If you do, fix them then. When I first did staining on the wood in my house I thought "Eeegads! I'm awful at this! " People would come over and I'd point out..."Look! I didn't fill in this microscopic nail hole!" They'd get all squinty trying to see what I was talking about.

I now realize that since I was the one putting in all the time and effort, I was the only one standing there staring at it for hours trying to find something that I'd missed. Everyone else looks at the overall. Now I have trouble finding where that nail hole is, and a spot with a little discoloration, only I know it's a kitty footprint!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 12, 2007
8:15 PM

Post #4186082

Pepper, you made me laugh, you are so right!

Karen, hey thanks, great advice. I am sure I have mentioned this...I'm a detail person. Ugh!! lol! I did however just slap a pinkie's-worth of paint on those knicks before I polycoated and they just look like "distressing".

When I went to the Parade of Homes I chatted it up with one of the realtors about one of the kitchens. It was the reddish color cabinetry with a reddish-black island. GRAND architecture, but I was telling him how I was using a similar color on my pantry doors. He pointed out the "distressing" on the island and said the painter had knocked it around with a giant bolt and then poked it with a paint stripper. Lol!

Oh, I just wanted to comment on my feelings so far for my color choice. I don't regret it, BUT...
BOY is the red easier! The cream will give the light look I wanted and I am going to be happy with the overall look, BUT, every little speck and fuzz seems so magnified. I am guessing living with them will be similar (just like you said Terry), but it does seem that the glazing will help this some. I'm also trying to get a really good poly coat on so that they can be wiped down really easily.

I was up really late last night and painted the portion of green behind the refrigerator that I had never completed. I also did a second primer coat on the backs of the upper cabs. I should be able to do the fronts tonight.

Baby is asleep and daughter is at preschool - back to work!!
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 12, 2007
11:20 PM

Post #4186591

Wait! You're glazing before you poly, correct? Paint, then glaze, then poly.

I tend to point out things to others also and am always told they never would of noticed or they don't see what I see.

robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 13, 2007
3:16 AM

Post #4187528

Thanks, Terry, yep, that's the order I'm going in.

Honestly, how many coats do you think I need??
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 13, 2007
4:02 AM

Post #4187665

I would do no less than 3 coats. You can reapply...in 3 hours I believe, so if you can take advantage of that, you can do all 3 coats in 1 day. I wouldn't try doing all of them at once either. I would do something like 5 doors, to keep it more manageable.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 13, 2007
5:40 AM

Post #4187858

It's the flipping that makes it take longer. I guess I was flipping in between though when I didn't need to. Generally, I was doing one layer or coat on all the doors I was working on. (was the lowers, now the uppers). Plus getting into the kitchen to do the actual cabs themselves. When I was doing the lowers, I pretty much had to work at night, so I didn't have to worry about my kiddos touching the wet paint.

I think I did two coats on the lowers, but told myself I was going to do another. Ugh...I wish I had a giant room where I could spread out a bit better. Ok, back to work!!

THANKS!!!! :-D
Robin
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 13, 2007
4:00 PM

Post #4188794

Oh Robin, I guess maybe I hadn't said it before when I thought I had. Don't flip in between. Do the backs of the doors in succession, then flip over and do all 3 coats on the fronts. Make sure you use wax paper over the cups you're using to prop them up. The wax paper keeps it from sticking to the cup and in my experience, it helps so that I don't have a mark from what I'm using to prop. You're doing fine Robin with the size room you have to work out of. I've only got the spare bedroom to do all mine in. I can set up 2 doors to strip and then refinish, but it's really too close to anything else and stripper on the behind isn't too good ;o) So I went to just doing 1 door at a time. For all my trim, there has to be space in between, so even setting up 4 saw horses wasn't quite enough.

Those servant steps are calling my name to come finish stripping them...please don't have any more fun than I'm going to be having...lol...
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 13, 2007
7:18 PM

Post #4189469

Hey, the waxed paper is a good idea. I don't know why I did the doors that way on the lowers, but I'm not doing it that way on the uppers. I am ready to flip and prime the fronts tonight.

Ok, my son is having a horrible fit over wanting to play with the garage door key pad, so gotta run!
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

November 13, 2007
8:07 PM

Post #4189620

Waxed paper is great, but also are "Painters Points". They are pyramids to rest your work on so there is only a tiny point touching the "down" side where each pyramid is placed. Allows both sides to be worked and dried at the same time.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 13, 2007
11:02 PM

Post #4190080

I'm confused. How can you work both sides? If one side is wet, how do you flip it over without messing up the whole paint job or the poly job? And if you do manage to get it flipped over, what happens to the points in each corner? How do you paint or poly them to get them even? I think I'd rather do it slowly and just one side at a time.
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

November 14, 2007
2:16 AM

Post #4190706

My dad has a system where he puts a clamp or something on the edges of his doors and has them sitting on a rod where he can rotate the door or whatever he is working on and poly the whole thing. Works great!!
digatunnel
Pasadena, CA
(Zone 10a)

November 14, 2007
6:57 AM

Post #4191268

I always did one side over and over again and then flipped it over. Honestly, its time for a super hero named Patience! lol!
Wax paper sounds like a brilliant idea. I think I'd also like to try to find those "Painters Points". They seem worth taking a look at.

Pepper23- I have a setup very similar to that...hinges! Just teasing! Actually, I'm envious.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 14, 2007
3:50 PM

Post #4192037

Hey all, I was posting last night and my husband called me to pitch in with bedtime b4 he passed out. lol This morning, my partial post was gone because our computer lost its connection. Grr...

I atteneded a parenting lecture at our local university, then I slept on the couch hoping I would wake up to get some work done, but nope, slept all night. lol! Joey left for a 5-day trip this morning. I have energy and the weather is great, so we'll see how much I can get done. ;-)

Anyhow, I was saying in my message that, Terry, I don't know for sure why I did it in the most time consuming way for the lower cabinets, but I am doing it in the more logical way for the lowers. :-)

I have certainly not put in as much time as I could have/should have, but think about how much I've had to do: with the lowers plus the pantry doors, I had 15 doors total, plus the cab frames themselves. I had to TSP, then sand medium, then sand fine, then sand the grooves, then prime once, then prime a second time, then paint cream once, then paint cream twice, then glaze, then polycoat once, then polycoat twice, then (I lost track!!) poly coat a third time? lol!!

So, with 15 cabinets, I was LUCKY to just get all of them done with one step and when it involved paint, I usually let them dry overnight and TRIED to tackle it again the next afternoon or evening. I rarely had to worry about doing two steps at once. :-)

Ok, one kid is cutting and gluing and one is amazingly still asleep, so I'm going to try and get to work!

SEND THAT SUPER HERO MY WAY! ;-D
R.

The other night
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 14, 2007
3:55 PM

Post #4192056

Forgot to say, Bubba, those painters points sound cool. I did a search and could not find them. Any tips on where to locate them?
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

November 14, 2007
5:25 PM

Post #4192382

I will try to find the magazine that had them - I subscribe to several woodworking mags and am a life-member of Handyman Club of America.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 14, 2007
5:40 PM

Post #4192426

Thanks, Bubba!

I probably don't have time to order a product. I looked at Home Depot and did an online search. If I couldn't find them locally, I'd probably have to pass.

You can certainly ship yourself in a box to my address though! I could use a Handyman like you! ;-D
ecrane3
Dublin, CA
(Zone 9a)

November 14, 2007
6:46 PM

Post #4192645

You might check the HGTV website--they were on one of their recent shows, one of the specials on new household products, so I think they're in the shopping area on HGTV's website. That's where I've seen them at least. I've never seen them in stores (although I haven't really looked that hard!)
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 15, 2007
1:35 AM

Post #4194060

Robin, I've stripped 10 doors, stained 11 1/2 (the 11th is a "new" 5 panel door) of them, because I painted the outside on the storm door, polyed them, stripped the woodwork in 7 rooms, stained and polyed 5 of them, the bathroom paint has absorbed into the woodwork, so it was painted (back area isn't ready yet), I've refinished 6 rooms floors (after lifting carpet and pad on 1st floor and removing carpet, pad, tiles and subfloors in entire upstairs, lifting subfloor and linoleum in kitchen only to find sheet linoleum glued down so I had to use my heat gun to lift it all, inch by inch) had 2 more sanded by a pro, used same heat gun to lift peel and stick tiles in 1/2 bath and foyer closet, then I polyed them (also stained the 2 floors upstairs that are done), ripped the carpet and pad off front staircase, redid stain and poly on 2 panels on the wood wall in foyer, I ripped out 2 bathrooms, everything but the walls upstairs, including the walls in the 1/2 bath, gutted the kitchen, sanded the spare bedroom walls and applied many skim coats, did Nu-Wal in 3 rooms and hallway, knocked the ceiling down in the foyer, am still working on the stripping of the servant stairs so those can be re-painted, stripped wallpaper in almost every room and foyer, staircase, alcove, hallway, ripped Marlite off in the back area, fixed some of the plaster walls, have painted every single room of the house, with exception to hallway and back area which isn't quite done yet, and who knows what I'm forgetting. I also bought "new" trim and plinth blocks for the kitchens 4 doors/doorways from VanDykes Restorers and Tony copied how they made the tops for the doorways and I had to stain and poly it all. I also bought 3/4" quarter round for 4 rooms on 1st floor, 1 room upstairs and 1" quarter round for kitchen which also had to be stained and polyed. These are things that "I" did, not a carpenter or contractor, but little ole me. In the things listed, I had a little bit of help from husband who was working in TN, so not home but 1 weekend a month, my sister helped me lift a few rooms carpets and my nephew helped me some on lifting subfloors upstairs. Are you tired yet? lol...I'm only telling you all this so you can look at all that I've done and yours looks like nothing. See?? LOL! The majority of all things listed was done in 4 months time, so we could move in and not be bothered by plaster dust and construction (moved in May of '05). I also painted the aluminum storm door on the balcony door, stripped the stain off the deck, replaced tongue and groove boards on front porch after I power washed/stripped paint off them then painted the front porch, stained and painted the rails on the back deck, painted the porch ceiling and aluminum surrounds, painted then put horizontal lattice around front porch, laid visqueen and rock under porch and am partially done under deck, painted garage, painted outside furniture, painted basement windows and foundation, then extended the deck, added a ramp and we've just completed the fence. Not to mention all the gardening I've done, after I ripped everything but 2 trees and an iris and a peony! And I'm NOT DONE!!!! whew, I think I need a nap...lol. And again, this doesn't include what I paid anybody to do! That's a whole 'nother list.

How'm I doing Bubba? Want to go into business together? ;-o
pepper23
KC Metro area, MO
(Zone 6a)

November 15, 2007
1:57 AM

Post #4194147

Terry, you never fail to make me tired when you type out your list. lol. We could use you at work.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 15, 2007
2:08 AM

Post #4194186

And while I was taking my shower, I realized I forgot that my dad and I drilled 1" holes every 16" inside the house on all exterior walls, both 1st and 2nd floor, then we blew insulation in. I crawled into a part of the attic where that's the only way to access it and blew insulation back in there. I also put insulation up, the rolled kind, in the kitchen and 1/2 bath since they were gutted and all. My husband and I replaced almost all panes of glass in the garage and glazed them...now that's surely a treat to do.

pepper, work? You mean somebody would pay me to do all this?? You come on up here and help me get this all finished, then I'll come down and go to work. Deal?
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

November 15, 2007
1:55 PM

Post #4195465

terry,
I'm worn out just reading your accomplishments. (and I thought I was busy)

Do you also maintain a garden?

It looks like I will be rebuilding a floor (whole house) in the near future - sounds like I should "lean on you" for tips and tricks. I have built additions and repaired many types of wood floors, but this may be the biggest restoration I've attempted.

Robin, et al,
I applaud your refinishing - that is the one process I will gladly let someone else do - fortunately, our DIL is a faux-finish expert.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 15, 2007
9:08 PM

Post #4196889

LOL!

Terry, you're a hoot! I am the first to admit, I take too many breaks, and of course, there is the playtime and meals for the kiddos. :-) Tonight I have to make pumpkin bread with my daughter because she is learning about Thanksgiving at school and got excited to make something. I also, sadly, learned of an aquaintance whose 7 year old girl died a couple of weeks ago. Having experienced some grief in my life, I can't get her out of my head. I have browsed Amazon and am headed to the bookstore this afternoon to get a book on grief that I can send to her. I've been hugging my kids extra tight the last few days and taking extra time to stop and smell the flowers. :-)

R.
terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 16, 2007
1:45 AM

Post #4198004

Why thank you Bubba! I'm quite proud of all that I've done also. Your restoration project sounds really intriguing! Lean on me if you need! If I can help, I'd be more than happy to! And yes, I've planted everything in this yard, with the exception of 2 trees, a peony and an iris. I can't seem to locate a picture at the moment. I'll look for one later.

I feel like an owl! Everybody keeps telling me I'm a hoot...lol.

I LOVE breaks!! Unfortunately, when you're stripping, it seems the majority of the time is on break. Especially with these steps. The longer I leave the stripper, the better it works. And when it looks likes it starting to go dry, I slop on more. I think total time of letting the stripper work is about an hour, compared to 20 minutes on the can. I would love to know what kind of paint they used way back when that makes it so difficult to remove.

You have to make pumpkin bread? Do you have to eat it too? Want my address?? I LOVE pumpkin bread!! Yummy...lol.

I'm so sorry to read about your acquaintances little girl. How sad.
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 16, 2007
2:26 AM

Post #4198174

Thanks Terry,
Oh, and I made salsa the other day from over 20 tomatoes in my garden!

Oh and it's pumpkin CRANBERRY bread! SOOOO yummy!

Here's the recipe; try it, you'll love it!

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~

Pumpkin Cranberry Bread
Delicious, moist and tangy bread. Good for lunch boxes and anytime snacks!

Ingredients:
□ 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
□ 1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice
□ 2 teaspoons baking powder
□ 1/2 teaspoon salt
□ 2 eggs
□ 2 cups white sugar (I usually substitute some Splenda.)
□ 1 (15 ounce) can pumpkin puree
□ 1/2 cup vegetable oil (I use a snack sized cup of cinnamon applesauce instead.)
□ 1 cup dried cranberries
□ 1 cup chopped walnuts

Instructions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Grease and flour 2 9x5 inch loaf pans (or 4 mini loaf pans).
2. In a mixing bowl, combine flour, pumpkin pie spice, baking powder and salt.
3. Combine eggs, sugar, pumpkin and oil in small mixing bowl, beat until just blended. Stir the wet mixture into the dry with a wooden spoon until batter is just moistened. Fold the cranberries and walnuts into the batter. Spoon the batter into the prepared loaf pans.
4. Bake in preheated oven for 50 to 60 minutes. (If using mini loaf pans, begin checking bread after 25 minutes.)
GLAZE:
□ 1 cup confectioners' sugar
□ 1/4 cup orange juice concentrate
□ 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice


terryr
Bureau County, IL
(Zone 5a)

November 16, 2007
4:15 AM

Post #4198589

Can I be 2 and say...ewwww walnuts! Yucky!!

The recipe does look good. I'll copy it over into a Word doc and print it out. I prefer to use applesauce instead of oil too! But Splenda, I just can't do. Tried it and it tastes funny...lol...so other than the walnuts and Splenda, it looks yummy!!
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

November 16, 2007
5:13 AM

Post #4198720

Wait, actually, after I looked at that, I am wondering if it's my "original" recipe, b/c I KNOW I use fresh cranberries. I see it lists dried. You see, we lost our hard drive shortly after Sam was born (Thank goodness my husband thought the computer was acting funny and backed up the ENTIRE computer the night before it was inexplicably fried or we would have lost his 1st month's pics!!)

Anyhow, I seem to remember about 2 C. fresh cranberries and they break down into little juicy bits within the bread. YUMMMM!

Ok, bedtime took TWO HOURS tonight. Ugh...never when Daddy is home it seems. My son is old enough to crawl out of his crib all of a sudden, so I have to keep putting him back. I will try and get the second coat of cream on the backs of the cabs so they can dry overnight. Still have not sanded the upper cab frames... ugh. ;-) Terry, COME HELP ME! lol!
lizh
N.C. Mts., NC
(Zone 6b)

November 17, 2007
1:07 AM

Post #4201561

I find your thread very interesting but wish you would start a new one. It is so slow and I have DSL. Thanks, for all the interesting things I've read .
Connie_G
Austin, TX
(Zone 8b)

December 28, 2007
7:14 AM

Post #4333988

Okay...let's SEE the pics! I read this thread (well, skimmed it!) tonight and couldn't wait to go to the end and see the results and...where are they? Hopefully, it is finished. If not, I Totally understand. My re-do took years! :-)
robin_joey
Oklahoma City, OK
(Zone 7a)

December 30, 2007
7:02 PM

Post #4341224

Wow, my first lazy moment in what seems like weeks, I am browsing the internet and decided to see if there were any new posts, since there hadn't been in weeks and weeks. I know...you all gave up on me. LOL! I TOTALLY understand. Well, guess what???? As of YESTERDAY, the uppers were finally hung AND we received some gift certificates from Lowe's from which I bought the new light fixture that coordinates with the dining room. I'll go take pics right now!

Now, please bear in mind, I hosted a big family dinner last night and so I have not tidied up the kitchen, but here it is! I had been waiting to start a new thread and now I CAN!!

:-D Robin

Terry

Terry
Murfreesboro, TN
(Zone 7a)


January 2, 2008
5:09 PM

Post #4351664

New thread here: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/800897/

You cannot post until you register and login.


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