Y'know, Tony, I'd ask the guys on the 'Trees' forum about that ... but gosh, I hope you get a good answer! Neat plants, one I really want to get here, just haven't had the chance. Which one are you trying propagate?
tonyjr, Take softwood cuttings in June/July. They root easily. Dirr recommends 1000 to 5000 ppm IBA-solution in peat/perlite with some misting. Where I live, I don't use hormone or mist the cuttings. Our heat and humidity help me. I do mine outside in shade. Don't overwater. Dirr also says you can collect the fruit in the fall, allow it to soften, mash the fruit, extract the seeds, dry them and refrigerate for two months (they do need cold stratification). I have never tried the seeds, since the cuttings root here so easily. Good gardening.
peony01 - thanks
what is 1000 to 5000 ppm IBA-solution ? I get everything but IBA [ ibulic acid ? ]
Do you soak cutting or drench dirt / potting mix ?
If I find missed fruit under bush from this year will seeds be good ?
There is ice / frost on ground where plants are for weeks at a time .
Never saw any Volunteer plants but have not looked either .
who is Dirr?
IBA is indolebutyric acid, the most common rooting hormone. Some manufacturers sell it concentrated so you can dilute your own to the concentration you need. You can also buy ready to use ones, but some of them may not have a high enough concentration. Dip N Grow is one brand I know of that is concentrated so you can dilute it to whatever you need but I'm sure there are others too.
pagancat, you have the source. If you like propagating woody plants, there is no better source. It is the bible for southern commercial woody plant growers. Dirr and Heuser are the authors, Dirr being the senior author. Michael Dirr spent much of his academic/research career at the University of Georgia. tonyjr, I do soak the planting material before sticking the cuttings (usually two/three per one gallon nursery container), but I have learned over the years to avoid over-watering. By the way, I just use a good potting mixture (watch the fertilizer amount in the one you choose - most now have fertilizer in them, and new stem cutings don't need fertilizer). Stems are predisposed to root - if we don't kill them, they will root. Seeds in the fruit you find on the ground should still be viable - just insure they get cold stratification. Don't want to complicate things, but have you tried layering? I know ecrane can elaborate on that - it's real easy to do with low hanging stems. My hobby is propagating woody plants.
Thanks , there are 2 books I refer to , The American Horticultural society Plant propagation - by / editor Alan Toogood and How to increase plants by Alfred Carl Hottes [ out of print . ]
They both say seeds and grafting .
I am going to Amazon now for other book you mentioned .
I have indolebutyric acid 3 .
I had this expereance last fall with quence.I trimmed all the older canes, and ran them through the chipper, fruit and all.The results were about twenty seedlings comming up in the mulch area.Now if I had wanted that to happen...Mike
Update - I have a place in Mexico [ actually a house in town and me and my brother split about 25 hectares . 1/3 mine . ]
Anyway I only go there once or twice a year .
My brother also has a smaller place [ 6 hectares ] that has the quince plants . Took cuttings and planted , they took hold , My problem turned into cows going thru fence , deer , rabbits - from what I was told , when it gets cold - Dec - Mar - the animals will eat anything they find .
Last year I put rebar [ the steel they put in concrete ] stakes in ground and wrapped chicken wire around then [ not just the quince , I have / had 32 fruit trees - every year I add 5 or 6 . ]
Will try again this year .