| Author | Content |
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 25, 2007
03:12 PM Post #4228257
| Newbie back with some questions if you have a moment to spare...
I picked up a class manual from that cool art school I was telling you about in another thread. It has some good info, but they've brought up a safety concern that I can't seem to find anywhere else. They said when you fire the kiln, no matter what type, that it *has* to be vented to the outside air as the clay will give off deadly fumes - not even the kiln, the clay.
I can't find reference to that kind of venting in my manual or in any other instructions. I can't help buy wonder if they're being very cautious and covering their behinds because it's a school? I can't imagine why else basements are suggested areas for kiln placement - ?
Any ideas? |
missingrosie
Hillsborough, NC
November 25, 2007
04:09 PM Post #4228427
| Hi Happy Thanksgiving
I know that the potters that I work with have told me that the glazes can give off toxic fumes (I manage a pulmonary rehab program and so deal with folks with lung disease). I think in some instances CO (carbon monoxide can also be a product of firing. So, maybe it is not actually the clay--but the glaze. (?) |
imapigeon
Gilroy (Sunset Z14), CA
(Zone 9a)
November 25, 2007
05:20 PM Post #4228671
| It's always a good idea to fire your kiln in an area that can be vented. Components of clay, glaze and overglaze can all produce fumes and smoke, especially during the early parts of the firing cycle. Depending on the recipes, they may or may not be toxic.
I fire my electric kiln in the garage, and my gas kiln is outside. |
rvnsbrk
Leesburg, VA
(Zone 7a)
November 25, 2007
05:57 PM Post #4228788
| I've been firing my electric kiln in the garage for years. During decals or glaze loads I avoid going out there in the first few hours of firing because you can really smell stuff firing out. Sometimes I just let the garage doors up a few inches depending on how cold it is.
Juanita |
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 25, 2007
06:06 PM Post #4228802
| Mmm - so it is a concern. Knew I came to the right place, thanks so much everyone!
Bummer - DH put in a new line and everything. Oh well, better safe than sorry, eh? |
doccat5
Fredericksburg, VA
(Zone 7b)
November 25, 2007
06:10 PM Post #4228815
| Normally basements are recommended because they can be vented fairly easily and there is less of a fire hazard. Most basements being concrete or similar material. These ladies are absolutely right about the toxicity of the fumes from firing. Some of the glazes especially reds have a lead base. There's no way to get around that, it's the only way to get that color. Not to mention some of the multicolor and crackles contain minute amounts of arsenic. So, yeah, do vent, use good firing practices, and if you are firing glaze ware that might end up holding food, do use cones to make sure that piece is fired to true cone. |
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 25, 2007
07:04 PM Post #4228967
| Excellent advice, thanks!
Looks like I would be using cones for the kiln sitter that is attached.
DH wants to go ahead and fire it up, just to see if it works before I get too much farther with all this... |
zenpotter
Minneapolis, MN
(Zone 4b)
November 26, 2007
08:05 AM Post #4230391
| Here is a site that sells kiln equipment this is the page with vents. It gives you the names and information for six different vents. I mention this company since is near me and I can go shop at the store/warehouse. No special deals at the warehouse though, I wish there was.
http://www.continentalclay.com/products.php?cat_id=195&sub_c...
I have a Skutt kiln with an Eviro Vent and it is a must if you have it in the house. Mine is in our basement.
|
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 26, 2007
09:59 AM Post #4230657
| Hey, great! That may be the way to go.
After we find out why it won't start up, lol... *sigh*. |
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 27, 2007
11:14 PM Post #4237661
| Woo Hoo! DH got it to start by by-passing the Kiln Sitter.
Yay! |
UniQueTreasures
Beaumont, TX
(Zone 8b)
November 27, 2007
11:26 PM Post #4237683
| Good for you!!!
What are you planning on making?
Janet |
zenpotter
Minneapolis, MN
(Zone 4b)
November 28, 2007
09:45 AM Post #4238574
| Next question, how will you control it without the Kiln Sitter? |
doccat5
Fredericksburg, VA
(Zone 7b)
November 28, 2007
10:13 AM Post #4238683
| You can't control it without the kiln sitter! That's one of the safety mechanisms. Have you tired to fire the kiln using a cone in the kiln sitter? If that is not working, it's possible the rod in the sitter may need to be adjusted or replaced. |
imapigeon
Gilroy (Sunset Z14), CA
(Zone 9a)
November 28, 2007
11:50 AM Post #4239024
| Or the electrical wiring in the kiln sitter may be loose or shorting out. |
zenpotter
Minneapolis, MN
(Zone 4b)
November 28, 2007
12:17 PM Post #4239087
| About the kiln sitter. Mine needs to have a cone in it to turn the power on plus there is a button to push after you have the cone in. Did you try doing both of those things? Do you have a manual for the kiln? If not you should be able to find one on line. Or google the kiln sitter model. |
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 28, 2007
08:00 PM Post #4240835
| Yup, found the .pdf of the manual - but I bet you're right that it won't start without the cone.
I think I'll order some - what I thought was a cone DH thinks is actually a plug for the peep-hole. >wince< There's times when being blonde can be painful.
Drove over 50 miles today and stopped at a shop in one of the larger towns in the area. They had clay, alright - Sculpey.
Grrrrr.
Edited to add:
I'm sorry Janet - I got sidetracked and didn't answer your question.
I have a few things that I'm very interested in doing - mostly, some day, some human sculpture or wandering my way into the murky world of the 'art doll' ... I'd also love to do some utilitarian things (well, kinda) for myself - tiles for my home, some windchimes, some beads ... I've always played in 2 dimensional forms of creating, so 3-D is quite intriguing.
This message was edited Nov 28, 2007 7:10 PM |
doccat5
Fredericksburg, VA
(Zone 7b)
November 28, 2007
11:00 PM Post #4241569
| Pagancat, the peep hole plugs look like cones, too. LOL No sculpey in the kiln, please. That's regular oven only. A lot of these bad boys (kilns) can fire over 1800 degrees normally. You can not only do clay, you can do porcelain and sag glass with em, but you do need to be careful. You might check around, sometimes you can take classes in the "care and feeding" of kilns at the local college. I took seminars in Richmond, VA on them back in the day. |
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 29, 2007
12:45 AM Post #4241863
| I had checked at the classes at TTU - (TN tech U) and unfortunately they don't give you a break on auditing courses... so it would still be $770 something for a ceramics course. There is a really cool branch of the college of art, called the Appalachian Center for the arts that gives summer courses for 5 days for @ $200 - and they are *very* cool classes, at that. It's just a long time away...
I promise not to put Sculpey or Fimo in my kiln. Promise! |
doccat5
Fredericksburg, VA
(Zone 7b)
November 29, 2007
12:48 AM Post #4241871
| If you do, not only will it not smell nice, you will probably have to replace a kiln shelf. Wish I was closer, I could probably help you get it set up. |
zenpotter
Minneapolis, MN
(Zone 4b)
November 29, 2007
08:03 AM Post #4242187
| I don't want to put a damper on your excitement but you are trying to go at this to fast. You won't get good results and end up disappointed.
I am going to do some research to get the name of a book I would recommend. Firing requires bringing the temperature up slowly among other things. You should really also plan on taking a summer class at the Appalachian Center for the arts. It has a very good reputation and you will learn a lot. If possible make sure it has a firing component.
Working with the clay has some very basic steps that you need to do to be successful. I was an art teacher for years and have seem some very unhappy students that didn't follow the directions.
Let me do some research a bit later this morning and get back to you. |
Pagancat
(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN
(Zone 6b)
November 29, 2007
09:36 AM Post #4242358
| It's cool, honest - I was being sarcastic about the Sculpey; I know it's not fire-able. I was totally disappointed that the shop didn't carry ceramic clay, any glazes or any of the accessories... including experienced sales folks that would allow me to pick their brains.
Not that I'm going to discourage you from looking for good resources for me, Pauline - I know that I can use all the help I can get, and I would be very grateful (I promise to name you in my memoirs, ha!) for any direction. |
zenpotter
Minneapolis, MN
(Zone 4b)
November 29, 2007
09:57 AM Post #4242406
| Sorry we thought you were going to fire Sculpey, next time give us a heads up like ha,ha or a smiley face please. I am afraid it sounded like you were a total novice and we didn't want you to wreck your kiln.
Here are two books on firing:
This is one I don't have but have talked to a friend that has it and really thinks it is the one to use.
http://books.google.com/books?id=sBIQ1bRVe3IC&dq=book on fir...
This is the book I use, it doesn't have a lot of information on a kiln sitter rather it tells you a lot about firing and it also tells how to fire down with a kiln sitter which is not addressed in most information.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0873496043/ref=sib_dp_pt/104...
This book is one I have used a lot in teaching hand building.
Clay hand building by Maurice Sapiro
This is another that I have and really like:
Handbuilt Ceramics by Kathy Triplett it is published by Lark Books and if you aren't familar with their publications I have never been disapointed with a book by them.
One really nice thing is that most clay you buy now is deaired and you don't have to wedge it the first time around. You do have the wedge the scraps together to use them though. If I am getting to basic let me know. |
rvnsbrk
Leesburg, VA
(Zone 7a)
November 29, 2007
05:01 PM Post #4243841
| I have both of the above mentioned books and you right about them being good. I too have trouble getting supplies. Have to drive over an hour to get clay. Then I end up buying way more than I can use and it gets dried out. Anybody have any ideas for 25 pound semi hard lumps of clay?? :0)
Juanita |
imapigeon
Gilroy (Sunset Z14), CA
(Zone 9a)
November 29, 2007
07:13 PM Post #4244238
| 5-gallon buckets with these awesome lids (see link), and wet towels!
http://www.amazon.com/Gamma-Plastics-Vittles-Vault-Buckets/d... |
zenpotter
Minneapolis, MN
(Zone 4b)
November 30, 2007
08:48 AM Post #4246016
| Juanita,
I am glad you like the books too, I sometimes hesitate to recommend books in case someone comes in and says: "Oh that book, I don't like it at all".
ima has the idea a bucket and wet towels, wrap them around the clay. Next time you buy clay store it in a bucket as well. It may get moldy, but mold is good in clay. the only other thing I can think of is cutting it up into slices, letting it dry out completely, grinding it out and reconstitute it. There are more steps than that, but I won't go into details unless you want me to. Without a pug mill it is a physically demanding process.
I buy several hundred pounds of clay at a time so I get it at a better price and then I store it in my damp garage. Although this time of year the garage is to cold so it goes into the laundry room. |
rvnsbrk
Leesburg, VA
(Zone 7a)
November 30, 2007
10:53 AM Post #4246435
| Thanks for the bucket idea Ima. I have been wrapping them in old, wet towels, bu leaving them sealed in the plastic they come it. My biggest problem is I don't have time to work in clay except for a few months in the winter when I am off. (I own a landscaping business). Hopefully I can salvage most of what I have in my cabinet out in the studio. I'm sure I can work something out.
Have a great day guys!
Juanita |
imapigeon
Gilroy (Sunset Z14), CA
(Zone 9a)
November 30, 2007
11:42 AM Post #4246586
| I have a big ol' 25-gal crock that I've hauled around with me for the last 30 years. At the bottom of it is clay from 1972!
When we were overseas it got totally dried out in storage, but when we came back I filled it up with water and started taking stuff off the top. All my trimming scraps and broken pieces go back in there, and I had lots of scrap clay from other class-members, too. For years it was to the top, and I barely made a dent in it, but now that I've got the pug mill and I'm making all these tiles, it's down about halfway---I'm actually going to have to buy clay!! |
jcoats123
Payson, AZ
(Zone 7a)
December 21, 2008
12:20 AM Post #5913988
| Hey all of you potters, clay and ceramic people, if interested, go to artisans and look at "potters, ceramics and read my thread. I am trying to get DG to put a forum on pottery under crafts.
Please read.
Thanks,
JoAnne |
