You've found the famous Dave's Garden website! Join this friendly global community that shares tips and ideas for home and gardens, along with seeds and plants!
Check out the DG homepage for a brief overview of what you'll find in this gardening mega-site.
Login
If you don't have an account yet, visit the registration page to sign up.
We need to turn and existing window into a doorway to a new addition. The walls are plaster and lath and have newly installed wallpaper that we do not want destroyed. Any suggestions?
I would start with a utility knife and a metal straight edge. Probably will need to change blades a few times depending on how old the plaster is. And no matter how carefully and slowly you work, there probably will be some plaster re-work to be done after the cuts are made.
How old is the plaster? - The older is is, the harder it will be.
After you get thru the plaster, a roto-zip would be one suggestion for cutting the lath. Any reciprical action saw will introduce a lot of vibration and might crumble adjacent plaster. It will be messy and dusty no matter how you do it so have a shopvac handy.
Good luck - take some before, during and after pictures to share.
This project is easiest when worked from the outside in. Since you are building an addition the outside of the existing building will eventually become an inside wall that will need remodeled anyway.
Determine your starting point [one side or the other of the studs and posts holding the window] and rip off the exterior to expose studs and backside of lath and plaster. Measure over to the end point [necessary width of opening for door and frame (38")] and install stud and post where needed. Drill holes at edges of posts through lath and plaster. Two on each side should be enough; three or four would be better if going the entire height of door.
Go inside and screw a 1x vertically to the lath and plaster, aligning the edge of the 1x with the holes drilled. Do this on both sides. The purpose of the 1x's is trap the lath and plaster between two solid surfaces to minimize vibration while cutting. Use a recip saw to cut the opening. I recommend leaving the 1x's on until the door molding is ready to be installed. The molding will hide the screw holes left behind.
Bubba's right. It is a messy project. Don't be surprised to find dust from it in the farthest room away.
FWIW .An angle grinder with a diamond blade will handle the both lath and plaster with less vibration and less chance of cracks traveling back thru the hard plaster.
I never gave an angle grinder a thought but that's probably because I don't own one. I can see where it would create less vibration than a recip. Diamond blades aren't cheap but they last forever.
Bubba's idea of a roto-zip makes sense but I've never found a bit that cuts lath AND plaster well. Several bits would be needed to cut the entire edging necessary for a door.
A recip is quick and easy but creates the most vibration. If the lath can't flop around there shouldn't be any damage.
Google Harbor Freight and find a store near you or order on line. The tools aren't top notch but they're cheap as are the diamond blades. For one shot occasional projects I consider them an expendable item. If they last longer than one job ...great I'm then ahead of the game.
Good suggestion, jkochan - I have several Harbor Freight tools.
They do a fine job when you take the time to "true" them, and don't rush. I consider the blades for the portable 3 1/4" planer replacable, not repairable. And have done many projects with the 10" slide miter saw - replacing the blade with a top of the line Freud, made a HUGE difference in performance.
Another tool that would do the work with minimum damage is the Fein Multimaster, but it is high $$$ (I have one).
Dremel already has a competitor to the Fein, and Sears is releasing theirs this spring/summer.
These vibrate, but cut such a narrow kerf that there is far less dust - however, it is very fine, so have the shop vac running.