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Construction Zone: building, remodeling, additions: cutting plaster

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Forum: Construction Zone: building, remodeling, additionsReplies: 12, Views: 61
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violet16
Lancaster, NY

January 18, 2009
09:29 PM

Post #6021853

We need to turn and existing window into a doorway to a new addition. The walls are plaster and lath and have newly installed wallpaper that we do not want destroyed. Any suggestions?
gk1153
Paris, IL
(Zone 6a)

January 18, 2009
09:33 PM

Post #6021877

How wide is the window?
violet16
Lancaster, NY

January 18, 2009
09:35 PM

Post #6021888

28 inches
violet16
Lancaster, NY

January 18, 2009
09:53 PM

Post #6021962

I am concerned about the plaster crumbling when it is cut and the paper being ripped.
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

January 19, 2009
08:07 AM

Post #6023040

I would start with a utility knife and a metal straight edge. Probably will need to change blades a few times depending on how old the plaster is. And no matter how carefully and slowly you work, there probably will be some plaster re-work to be done after the cuts are made.

How old is the plaster? - The older is is, the harder it will be.

After you get thru the plaster, a roto-zip would be one suggestion for cutting the lath. Any reciprical action saw will introduce a lot of vibration and might crumble adjacent plaster. It will be messy and dusty no matter how you do it so have a shopvac handy.

Good luck - take some before, during and after pictures to share.
violet16
Lancaster, NY

January 19, 2009
09:21 AM

Post #6023173

The plaster is from 1927.
Thanks for the advice. Wish we had done this before painting and papering!
gk1153
Paris, IL
(Zone 6a)

January 19, 2009
09:46 AM

Post #6023236

This project is easiest when worked from the outside in. Since you are building an addition the outside of the existing building will eventually become an inside wall that will need remodeled anyway.

Determine your starting point [one side or the other of the studs and posts holding the window] and rip off the exterior to expose studs and backside of lath and plaster. Measure over to the end point [necessary width of opening for door and frame (38")] and install stud and post where needed. Drill holes at edges of posts through lath and plaster. Two on each side should be enough; three or four would be better if going the entire height of door.

Go inside and screw a 1x vertically to the lath and plaster, aligning the edge of the 1x with the holes drilled. Do this on both sides. The purpose of the 1x's is trap the lath and plaster between two solid surfaces to minimize vibration while cutting. Use a recip saw to cut the opening. I recommend leaving the 1x's on until the door molding is ready to be installed. The molding will hide the screw holes left behind.

Bubba's right. It is a messy project. Don't be surprised to find dust from it in the farthest room away.
violet16
Lancaster, NY

January 19, 2009
05:56 PM

Post #6025488

Thank you!
jkochan
Chandler, AZ
(Zone 9b)

January 19, 2009
06:15 PM

Post #6025549

FWIW .An angle grinder with a diamond blade will handle the both lath and plaster with less vibration and less chance of cracks traveling back thru the hard plaster.
violet16
Lancaster, NY

January 22, 2009
05:18 PM

Post #6037558

wow- this is just the kind of info I needed. Thanks1
gk1153
Paris, IL
(Zone 6a)

January 22, 2009
06:25 PM

Post #6037802

I never gave an angle grinder a thought but that's probably because I don't own one. I can see where it would create less vibration than a recip. Diamond blades aren't cheap but they last forever.

Bubba's idea of a roto-zip makes sense but I've never found a bit that cuts lath AND plaster well. Several bits would be needed to cut the entire edging necessary for a door.

A recip is quick and easy but creates the most vibration. If the lath can't flop around there shouldn't be any damage.
jkochan
Chandler, AZ
(Zone 9b)

January 22, 2009
07:06 PM

Post #6037954

Google Harbor Freight and find a store near you or order on line. The tools aren't top notch but they're cheap as are the diamond blades. For one shot occasional projects I consider them an expendable item. If they last longer than one job ...great I'm then ahead of the game.
Bubba_MoCity
Missouri City, TX

January 23, 2009
10:24 AM

Post #6039990

Good suggestion, jkochan - I have several Harbor Freight tools.
They do a fine job when you take the time to "true" them, and don't rush. I consider the blades for the portable 3 1/4" planer replacable, not repairable. And have done many projects with the 10" slide miter saw - replacing the blade with a top of the line Freud, made a HUGE difference in performance.

Another tool that would do the work with minimum damage is the Fein Multimaster, but it is high $$$ (I have one).
Dremel already has a competitor to the Fein, and Sears is releasing theirs this spring/summer.

These vibrate, but cut such a narrow kerf that there is far less dust - however, it is very fine, so have the shop vac running.

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