A Note: Measure out really hot tap water and dissolve the Epsom Salt in it first - LOL!
Originally kenboy posted this one:
2 cups water
1 12 oz can of beer
1/2 cup household ammonia
1 cup Epsom salt
12 drops Tea Tree oil
1/4 cup unsulphured molasses
1/4 cup liquid seaweed (Kelp)
Kell posted this one:
12 oz beer
1 cup Epsom salts
1/2 cup ammonia
2 cup water
1/2 cup molasses (I use black strap)
4 tbs bloom booster
vit B12 (I use 250-500mg)
You use 1 tablespoon per gallon of warm water.
12 oz beer
1 cup epsom salts
1/2 cup ammonia
2 cups water
4 tbsp Bloombooster
4 tbsp Miracle-Gro
1/2 cup molasses
Mix together and store in tightly capped 1 litre bottle or jar. Does not require refrigeration.
To use: mix 1 tbsp in 1 gallon of water and apply every 2 weeks.
12oz of beer
1cup of epsom salts
1/2 cup ammonia
1/4 cup if molasses
1 to 3 drops of Tea Tree Oil
1 to 3 drops of Superthrive
2 cups of water
1 to 2 tablespoons of mix to a gal. of water.
kenboy later posted this revision:
2 cups of water
1, 12 oz can of beer
1/2 cup of household ammonia
1 cup of Epsom salt
3 Tablespoons of Tea Tree oil
1/4 cup of molasses
1/2 liquid seaweed ( Kelp )
1/2 cup of garlic spray
1/2 cup of Humate Tea
1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon of water
There was a discussion about seedlings getting burned
2 cups of water
1 bottle beer
1/2 cup ammonia
1 cup of Epsom salt
12 drops Tea Tree oil
1/4 cup of molasses
1/2 liquid Age Old Kelp
2Tbs Miracle Grow
I mix up two kinds of Mix, one for Brugs and one for MGs and bloomers... one I use MGtomatoe feed in (for brugs) and the other I use bllom buster in ( for MGS) one gal is red the other is blue green LOL
I still have no kelp so use the Kens' recipe, only with the miracle grow for tomatoes or Bloom buster and dissolve a 1000 mg of b12 tablet
I do however add a table spoon of peroxide to each gallon.. seems to work good when I spray it on the soil around the plants hope I didn't confuse everyone too bad I just confused myself! LOL (ageratum bloom)
2 cups of water
1, 12 oz can of beer
1/2 cup of household ammonia
1 cup of Epsom salt
3 Tablespoons of Tea Tree oil
1/4 cup of molasses
3 tablespoons Tomatoe food (miracle grow)
1 B12 1000 mg tablet
3 tbls. peroxide
I add two table spoons of this to Hot water to mix with and use it in all my sprayer bottles
as well as my soil water.. this is what I use on my Brugs and tomatoes and hibiscus
for MGs I substitute with Bloom Buster ( in the watering cans)
I mist those with plain distilled water
hope this helps! Debra
for bloom forcing I use Bloom Buster instead but same receipe...
I think I'm going to be one spraying fool this year - The Recipe, worm tea, & EM1. I have a really good hose-end sprayer,
and over the boring winter, I purchased a siphon mixer like this one http://www.growerssolution.com/page/GS/PROD/siphon/yellowsiphon. I can't say if it works or not, since I haven't tried it yet. One day soon when it's not too cold to play in water I'll give it a try & let everyone know how/if it works.
It looks like I'll be spraying something every week.!
Which recipe was the original one for the epiphyllums? I forget now lol. I think it orignally came from there and then was tweaked to suit the brugs but I can't remember which was the original...I want to make some for my epis now.
4 of my Dats came up..not in an incubator..LOL
Just in the same pot my mature one passed on in..
And their working on their first set of true leaves...
I'm having problems keeping trop. hibiscus's alive after they sprout...
Here's the one I use. I sprayed everything but the cactus & they all loved it.
2 cups water
1 12 oz beer
1/2 cup household ammonia (unscented)
1 cup Epsom Salts
3 Tbl Tea Tree oil
1/4 cup unsulphured molasses
1/2 cup liquid seaweed (Kelp)
1/2 cup garlic spray
1/2 cup MG or Peters
1 tsp Superthrive
1 cup Humates or compost tea-
(Humic acid & Fulvic acid which aid
the plant in taking up nutrients)
I use this on house & garden plants & in the veggie garden. mix 1 tablespoon in 1 gallon of water. Foliar spray daily, Spray on leaves or seeds. Use diluted on seedlings once they have their first set of true leaves.
4 tbs bloom booster
vitamin B12 500-1000 mg
Well.. I guess I should post my take on the recipe.. slightly revised for products here.. I make up 4 batches together at a time.. the following is for 1 batch..
2 1/2 cups of water [ Iuse a little more.. water as I use a powered seaweed product ]
1, 12 oz can of beer
1/2 cup of household ammonia.. [ non detergent ]
1 cup of Epsom salt
1 OZ of Tea Tree oil...
1/4 cup of molasses [ un sulphered... Black Strap ]
2 tablespoons Maxi Crop [ powdered seaweed concentrate ]
10 drops of superthrive
1 tablespoon Liquid Humus [Technaflora plant products 15% Humic acid ]
2 tablespoons Formula X [ Cornucopia Plus ]
4 tablespoons Miracle Grow..[ their standard one early in the year for growing.. OR the
MG..Bloom Booster used later in the season for flowering ]
I spray daily..a splash.. in 2 liters..wondered how much that splash was..so I checked..looks like 4 Tbs /2 liters... MMMM might be a bit stiff.. compared to others...
I spray my cactus.. brugs.. plumeria.. and everything.. the cat usually leaves her spot under the plumeria when spraying starts.. Outside I spray the lawn also..
I also use a bit in my water.. maybe 6 Tbs / 5 Gallons water.. along with 5 Tbs. MG there .. The seedlings are doing just fine with the daily sprayings ]
Shake well before each use.. it does settle out some..w/salts on the bottom
Thank you for these great recipes, I will be using it this year on my Co-op bought brugs. One question, I've noticed from reading that some of you spray everything in your garden (much easier) is it ok on food plants? ie...peppers, herbs, mango, citrus trees? it certainly would be alot easier to attach the hose sprayer and just spray everything but just wanted your input, I have a lot of mixed up plants inbetween my brugs & plumeria's etc.
Also anyone had any "do not spray" plants? My vietnamese gardenia buds turn brown if they get sprayed, although the plant itself likes it.
ASTC .. ell Iread few few postings one said she didn't do her cactus.. Ido.. seems fine for mine.. the other said she didn't do her Japanese morning glories.. spray mine as well..
As far as food plants... there's nothing in there that's not orgaic.. the tea tree oil in the quanities I use it in might aftr amonth or two impart the taste of it.. but I'd imagine it would be minimal.. and a good bit ould just ash off.. you could always stop a month or so before harvest.. the hose end sprayer.. might dilute it too much to be real effective.. but it surely wouldn't hurt them..
thank you for answering my questions, I guess I was more worried that the Ammonia wouldn't be safe on food plants (because of it's label warnings) but as you said, it's such a small amount when it's diluted. Plus here in Florida with the rains each day in the growing season it will probably dilute it even more so.
It is way too dilute to worry about. Along with the massive dilution you are only spraying it. If you swallowed the amount as liquid that gets on the plant it would not hurt you. It would taste nasty but would not cause harm. I do not know how much nasty bacteria grows in it and everything when it sits so long after you make it so I would want to rinse off any vegetables before eating but I do that anyway. It will rinse right off with the bug poo LOL
Yes... Ammonia contributes significantly to the nutritional needs of terrestrial organisms by serving as a precursor to foodstuffs and fertilizers...N H3 with water is what we buy..
Approximately 83% (as of 2003) of ammonia is used as fertilizers either as its salts or as solutions. Consuming more than 1% of all man-made power, the production of ammonia is a significant component of the world energy budget
Solutions of ammonia in water can be applied on the skin to lessen the effects of acidic animal poisons, especially insect poison and jellyfish poison..
I think it mixes with the other ingredents..to form other compounds.. the plants can use..alone... ammonia is about useless to plants..
ok, a couple of questions that have prob. been answered in other threads but I'll ask here. How often do you spray (brugs and hibbies) and do you use other feeds at the same time? For ex. osmocote or miracle grow spray as usual?
Well, we sprayed the recipe every day last year in the hoophouses. I use Osmocote in the potting soil I mix up and have not noticed any bad effects using both. We don't use MiracleGro but I would imagine you can use it as often as you usually would. Or just include it as part of the recipe you use and use it once a week or whatever.
I used this last year with very good results. Even my bougie bloomed and it was the first time after being in the ground for some 10 years. But can I use this on ferns. I can't remember if I did last year or not and now I have a staghorn fern and I really want it to survive.
"Fertilizer - Any General All Purpose Plant Food Will Do "No Bananas" Along With A Very Small Amount Of Root Hormone , From Time To Time . Plant Food Should Be Given At (1/4) Strength Per Gallon Of Water Beginning In Early Spring And Through Mid Fall , But Not To Often . We Do Not Regularly Feed Our Platycerium Fern Species . With Most Of The Species No Food Should Be Given During The Winter Season , Unless The Species Is A New Pup Or Newly Mounted Species You Are Attempting To Get Established And Even Then Not To Much Food . You Can Also Use A Very Small Amount Of Slow Release Plant Food Tablets , During The Summer Season . "
Interesting writing style on the website: I Think These People Are Very Passionate About Staghorn Ferns :~)
This site also talks about using filtered water and the importance of not using chlorinated water in particular. They do have some good information that appears to be based on years of experience. I have a few little staghorns here so I was happy to find what info I could about them. I had been considering getting some sort of filters for the outdoor water anyway - I wish we could afford a filter for our whole system. Our community water company really dumps the chlorine in the water in the summer.
Sorry if I'm popping in here with an already answered question Maggi, but what was the consensus last year regarding amount of the recipe per gallon? I know last year some were giving up to 6 TBS to a half cup of the recipe per gallon. I used 6 TBS mix in my greenhouse to spray the brugs this winter...
LOL! my reasoning about how much to use is this: If I have a lot of recipe mixed up and I'm feeling flush ($ in pocket) I use 2 T per gallon. If I am running low on recipe and am broke at the same time, 1T per gallon.
I found a partial jug of the recipe leftover from last year, it had been outside for months. I opened it and it smelt as fresh as the day it was mixed, so I used it. No adverse effects to report.
I got lazy last year and came up with all sorts of excuses for not spraying my Brugs with the recipe. With my slipped disc, I've wanted something I don't have to carry or to bend over a lot. I think I have the answer. It's a bit more expensive than a 1-gallon sprayer, but once I set it up, it should be easier to keep up with spraying the recipe and fertilizing.
I'm filling one of the EZ-Flow containers with the recipe concentrate and the other EZ-Flow with my regular fertilizer. Each of these containers will be attached to the twin shut-off valves and a hose. Then all I have to do is turn two handles to switch from one hose to the other to mist or water my Brugs. I'll post a photo of my set up once it's in place.
Betty looks like your mind is heading the same direction as mine this year. I would suggest you also look at this, a siphon mixer valve that hooks onto your faucet and is alot cheaper than the EZ Flow. You stick the little siphon hose into a regular 5 gallon bucket full of concentrated fertilizer for the same effect as your going for. Alot less money though. This is just an example, there are many brands of siphon mixer valves, some even cheaper. I'm going to use one bucket for fertilizers and one for pesticides. I also use a twin faucet valve, which you can get cheaply at Walmart.
Hey Betty! Let us know how that EZ Gro works for you, OK? I notice it says "Back flow protection required, sold separately." Where is that?
Oh, and Sam's has had some good quality hoses the last few seasons, probably Costco does too. I have heard Sears made a really good hose too.
Karen, the only problems with the siphon mixer and 5-gallon bucket is that it seriously reduces water flow at the end of the hose and that it is very hard to filter out 'stuff' that clogs the siphon hose. Also, when you shut off the water at the 'business' end of the hose oftentimes the siphon stops working and you have to mess with it to get it sucking again.
I have lusted after the EZ Gro - but only if it really works ;~)
LOL! I am sure God forgives your fits, Joanie! I know what you mean about throwing fits, I am glad I don't have neighbors close enough to hear some of the words I say when I get frustrated with tools that don't work :~)
Hey jestelleoan! Good to see you! Are you coming to our RU on May 16th at Love's Lookout in Jacksonville?
Aw shucks, please don't tell me neither of those machines I listed don't work...WAHHHHH!!! I need something bad folks...I've been very ill and although I'm over it I'm still rather weak and can't handle a summer of toting a standard sprayer and pumping until I fall down.
Maggie, I believe EZ-Gro is a knock off of EZ-Flo I'm going to end up with one of each because I lost track of the website I used to buy the EZ-Flo. The back-flow protection is a screw on valve that prevents possible contaminants from being sucked up the faucet and getting into the rest of your system. I received the EZ-Flo about 1-1/2 weeks ago and ordered the EZ-Gro yesterday. I haven't had a chance of trying the EZ-Flo with fertilizer yet.
Karen, I looked at the siphon mixer, but wanted an enclosed container. I'd have to fish dead things out of the bucket. If and when it rains, the fertilizer would dilute to unknown proportions. Besides those systems were "peace of mind" bribes from my DH. I went out to help him weigh a newborn calf. I hate the use of cattle prods so I use a rattle paddle. It didn't work against an irate mother. She picked me up, flung me about 6' into a cactus patch. Luckily for me, she just wanted her baby. I had thorns of all sizes from my neck all the way down to the backs of my knees. When I turned to get up, I got them all over my arms and hands. My DH spent the rest of the day getting the large thorns out. The small ones, I learned, after a visit to my GP and a Dermatologist, will have to be sloughed off. I'm using a cream to help speed that process. I've changed my mind about cattle prods.
I do not like cattle prods either. I had one meddlesome mom give me a really hard time. I bent down and picked up a rock and holding rock in my hand I punched her in the forehead. She went to her knees. I had no idea it would hit her that hard and will never do it again but the plus side is whenever she would get cranky after that all you had to do was double up your fist and she would back right off. LOL
No, I'm saying I just received one and need to test it out, but haven't had the time to do so. My DH is out of town and I'm stuck with his ranch duties as well as mine. I'll try to test it as soon as I have a free hour or two. I have to go to the airport in Austin to pick him up this evening and take him back Monday. Meanwhile, I have to put out hay every other day or so, keep a close eye on a 'first time' heifer, who may give birth to a large calf. There is a possibility of birthing problems there. I'm also trying to find someone to come put out feed for my calves and weigh any newborn ones
Kathy, once we weeded out the old gals and bull from the original herd, we've never had a problem with them. Heifers born on the ranch spend a year in the heifer pasture near the house. We see them everyday. We're the source of all the goodies they get. Once they join the main herd, we see them almost everyday. We are able to walk among them without any problems even when they have little ones. I'm still cautious around them. Size alone is enough to scare me. If they start to shake their heads or lower them, I back away. We have one, Rosebud, who was hand reared by her original owner. She loves men, but doesn't like women. I usually stay out of her personal space. When we weigh the newborn, the moms usually take a few steps back and let us do the job. They keep an eye on us, but make no aggressive moves. So Forever's reaction came as a complete surprise. I've come up with a faster way to weigh the calves, but since the idea didn't come from my DH, I can't implement it. I get a lot of "yes, buts"
We just had a few head and always bottle fed the calves. It turns them into real pets. I only ever had a problem with the one cow and as stated I fixed that. I guess she was just having a hormonal moment. I should have been more patient but as always I was in a hurry.
Well.. at the Philadelphia flower show.. there was this vendor there...selling real water for plants.. they also haverealwater available for humans..and as a treatment for water..turning it into real water.. for us also..
I know.. another item one doesn't need to achieve great results.. but in their display..ofplantsgrownwithandwithout it..were impressive.. a general over all improvment.. in the with group.. so we'll see how it does... lots of medical litature of the benefit of this for peoples health... this is basically a negatively charged water which means it has extra electrons.. and will donate them to the body or plant if they are needed... city water..and water from other bottleing companies give positivilly charged water.. which means in flowing through the cells.. it's looking to steal electrons from it's molicules.. in order to relieve it's self of it's charged condition.. real water is also alkaline.. not acidic.. so it helps even out the PH in bodies.. and plants..
we'll see how it goes... http://www.realwaterus.com/index.php?pr=Plant_Water
Good, because I'm experimenting with that this year. I can't afford commercial fertilizers this year. I haven't used the brug stuff yet this year, just the tea. Everything seems to like it. I'm even more excited about spring this year than usual because of the results I had from the recipe last year and combining it with the tea for this year. This is a picture of the bouganvilla I have had for years than never bloomed until I tried that recipe!
It should be fine.. if you can keep any solid matter .. ot of the spray systems.. intake..
I just finished applying 100 lbs of the alfalfa pellets directly to the top of the soil.. to let it rehydrate and be worked into the soil in cultivating..
Silver, I was told I couldn't grow bougies in east Texas. I am zone 8b and you're 8a. So do you get into the 20's at night sometimes? I have a big bougie I would love to put into the ground and let it take off. How do you protect it in the winter?
Well I'm not sure what to tell you except that some varieties are not winter hardy. Barbara Karst is the one I've heard that is and I can only assume that is what I have. I have also heard the variegated types are not winter hardy. I was told that they are not hardy here too, but this one had been planted near the porch of my Dad's house by the previous owner. After he died, I was trying to clean up the yard one day so we could sell the house. I dug this plant up thinking that I would just trash it. This was sometime in early spring 2000. To my surprise it had new growth at the base, so I took it home and planted it a pot. For several years I brought it inside for the winter, and then one day I just decided I'd had enough of that and I planted it in the yard. I had no idea it would ever get that big.
This one grows on the east side of a garage apt. Other than the leaves that accumulate around it, it gets no protection and I rarely water it. There is a rose about 5 or 6 feet away that I do water, so I guess maybe some of the roots go that way. And yes we do get in the 20's every winter. We've even had temps in the teens. Next to my confederate jasmin, it's the most trouble free plant I have.
I have no idea if mine is hardy. But like you, I'm tired of cutting the thing back in the fall and keeping it on the porch. I'd like to put it in the ground. But, I 'd hate to lose it to cold if it's not hardy. Oh what a conundrum. Thanks for your input. It helps a lot.
The best time to take cuttings of a Brug pieces to root is in the early fall--(at least here-zone 7a) when the days and nights are, approximately the same length.
I have found a few things that work better than others,,,ahem!
-Tip cuttings have more problems rooting then short, stem cuttings..VERY short!
-Rooting any cuttings by putting them directly into a soil mix, dipping them in rooting hormone, works better that trying to root them in water--even if it is a "bubbler" system...
--Always take your cuttings from above the "Y" if you want earlier bloom.
--You CAN root the whole stem of a Brug plant--if you wish...YEAH! It WILL root!
--You can also drag the whole plant into your dark, cool basement and let it go dormant. Water VERY sparingly! YES! All the leaves will fall off and the plant will just "exsist"...
BUT--It will bounce right back once you take it outside in the spring. Just watch the light--shade first...then part shade...then bright light...and then, finally, in full sun.
You will be amazed at how quickly the Brug responds to this!!!!!
Keep in mind this "formula"...
Any stem cuttings from below the "Y" will grow taller and bloom later
Any stem cuttings from above the "Y" will grow and bloom sooner--and will, most likely, be a bit shorter plant...
Since most Brugs do not "Y" until later in the growing season (here), you may not get any more than one or two flushes of bloom.
Again--Texas is a whole different zone than we are. We actually get hard winters here--and have to dig up our Brugs and overwinter them in the house----either dormant in the cool basement--or growing in a sunny room, somewhere...or, if we leave them outside---they will die...
I suggest you ask this question in your respective, regional Forum for better advice...
OR--Go to the Brugmansia Forum and you will have all kinds of advice!!!!
Silver, I just checked plant files and you can take herbaceous, woody, soft or semi hard cuttings. So I guess you can take a cutting from just about anywhere on the plant and treat it like any other. When mine starts waking up from it's winter's sleep I'lll take a cutting.
I am in 7b.. we get into the low 20's here frequently and even the teens sometimes.. there is a bougie down the street from me that has been in the ground for over 10 years.. it is on a west facing wall. I was simply amazed when I saw it and stopped to ask the owner about it. He told me when he planted it and it has just survived. Here is a picture I took of it just to prove to myself it really exhisted!
Well Shirley... I haven't done any real tests on it.. but I suspect it woud be beneficial if sprayed or poured on.. I spray mine.. and also pour a bit into the diute inside MG feedings.. along with a few other incuded foods for the plants.. the benefit of the teatree oil for the eaves.. it being a fungiside... is lost pouring... but it does give that treatment to the soil ..
spraying has it's benefits.. [ even with water ] so you shoud be spraying anyway.. is there a reason for not wanting to spray with the recipe... aside from the brown streaks from the moasses..on everything around
My ferns don't seem to like this stuff and I'm trying to figure out what it is they don't like. I would like to mix up a version for them. Maybe I could also use that on my salvias. Also when I sprayed my redbuds they got little red rusty lookin' spots on the leaves.
Also I'm wondering if I can add vinegar to this stuff to counteract some of the alkalinity in our soil. I'm growing roses and blueberries. The roses are handling it ok since I started using this recipe, but I just planted the blueberry and I want to give it the best chance of survival.
We are expecting a freeze too and I'm trying to cover everything I recently planted and daylilies that have scapes. I'm hoping to spray tonight because I think it might help them make it through this cold snap.
Oh..Shirley.. sorry to hear it's too difficut to spray...they do love it so.. not being in the misty mountains.. or the humid lowlands.. how about some apprenticeship. for a local .. growette..
Well.. since you mentioned it.. what is your age ..my dear...
Can you break out an od sheet.. and cover things tonight.. it wil help
Gordonhawk ---I am 77 and just not as strong as I used to be------so my garden is suffering. Unfortunately, my yard man is just someone to tend to grass cutting-----he doesn't know the difference in a dandelion and a rose! Luckily, last night did not get as cold as expected------and, if we can survive the cold for tonight, the rest of the spring should be a breeze. In this area the old folks always said that you could plant most anything on Good Friday (although I think that the soil is still a little cold).
My big problem for today is that my bluebirds are flying at me when I try to open the bluebird box. They have not done that in 20 years of observing them!! I have always looked at their eggs and babies! Can't figure it out!
Maybe you can find one of those little sprayers like I found for my mother.. she is 75 and also found it difficult to do the spraying needed for her plants.. all that 'hand spraying' her hands just could not do it... this works really well for her and is not too big to handle but holds plenty to do a lot of plants! I found it at walmart last year.. also found them at big lots... it is a 1/2 gallon mini sprayer with a pressure pump on the top. You fill it with your mix screw the top on and the pump the top to pressurize it... works really well... we have several around for differnt mixes.
Hi I'm a newbie to this thread and was sent here just for the recipe. I am going to try it this year. I've sprayed my brugs and hibiscus with it a couple 3 times now and have noticed amazing growth in the brugs and the hibiscus is blooming! A flower at a time but it is blooming.
Spring 2007 was my first try with brugs; a total of 3 yellow. Two never bloomed for me until Feb2008 in the sunroom, one bloomed in Sept. 2007. i now have those original 3 (which died in the garage this past winter and start growing and showing leaves as I was going to throw them out). They have really shown growth in the 2, 3 x's I've sprayed them with the recipe. I also have 2 Monster whites, and a 'Charles Grimaldi'.
I have ordered from Logee's and yet to receive 1 each of 'Ecuador pink', 'Inca Sun', and 'Jean Pasco'. I also foolishly ordered the 3in1 brug where there;s all three colors in one pot. What can I say?
The first winter we kept them out here in the sun room and heated it at night during the winter and on cloudy days. DH says we're not doing that any more but did end up heating out here this past winter. Now he says definitely not next year so my tropicals will all have to go to the basement. Lost too many in the garage. All I need to do with the brugs once they're in the basement is water occasionally correct? And the leaves will fall off and not to be alarmed? Do they need light? We will be putting up lights for the Jasmines and epi's I have.
Will the recipe be okay for Jasminum sambacs and epiphylums???? You think?
Oh I know such a pain I'm being. Oh and my Mandavillas & heliotropiums too?
I am wondering why so many people are adding superthrive to these mixes, when in fact the orignal was called homemade superthrive. I guess everyone mixes for thier needs.
I used to spary this on everything, but was so overrun with bugs. It then occured to me that maybe bugs like beer and molasses. I do occasionally spray, but uusually use it as a soak. I alao add no water to the mix, just use less to a gallon. It makes the batch smaller and easier to carry around. Using no water I still make it a gallon at a time . It is more like a syrup and I use a tablespoon full to a gallon. I saved Ketchup bottles to store it in, no light gets in that way and always keep one in my garden shed.
Linda, where do you get Peter's? I have heard of Peter's Excellence which the greenhouses use, but have never seen it for sale to the general public.
Also, can anyone tell me where you get the kind of vitamin B12 for plants?
I believe// homedepot.. or Lowes has Peters... as well as MG...
It's all the same B-12.. good for any living thing.. the same formulation.. buy the cheepest one I'd guess.. as to how much to use ofthe real thing.. you'll have to read back in the thread
I contacted the company that makes Peter's Excellence and they said they only sell it in 25 lb. bags to the trade. There are other Peter's formulations around, but I have found none. In fact, Schultz was recommended to me over MG.
woodspirit1, I can't find it anymore. Apparently, Peters company was sold & changed the name to Jacks Classic Plant Food. It is $17.25 for a 4 lb tub! I won't be buying that overpriced stuff anytime soon. I looked at the Peters pail & I paid 2.99 on sale (regular 4.99) for the same amount. Good thing I bought 10 pails of it last year when I had the chance.
my last batch cost about 2.00 ( mostly the beer) I initially bought a big bag of epsom sals, ammonia, and the rest of the stuff at discount store and have been only spending about a dollar on the can of beer.. hope this helps.. my supply ticket for everything still wasn't more than 10.00 including the tea tree oil.
I don't think it cost me much more than that. I bought the epsom salt peroxide(strictly for me garden stash) tea tree oil, vit B12 (double bottle of bogo) at Wal-Mart. I already had the MG for tomatoes and the Bloom Booster. I don't know if that helps any.
could someone explain what the purpose of the ingredients is and their importance?
like why beer, ammonia, tea tree oil, molasses, epsom salts etc, what purpose do they serve or what is the plant getting out of it?.. and can you make a mixture minus one or more of these ingredients ( say you dont have tea tree or beer, or molasses on hand, but everything else) and it still benefit the plant?
Molasses provides a large amount of potassium and some nitrogen, some calcium, magnesium and all the micro-nutrients. Molasses can potentially put too much potassium in the soil so it has to be balanced by the addition of some sort of ammonia compound. So they have to be used together.
Ammonia provides some nitrogen. As a base, it probably helps balance the pH of the solution which would tend to be acidic.
Tea tree oil is a natural anti-fungal agent. If it's not used, the molasses would be an excellent growth media for sugar loving microbes.
One missing ingredient from this basic recipe is phosphorus, one of the major three nutrients plants need. Seaweed doesn't have much of it. Bloom booster fertilizers are mainly phosphorus, but that's an expensive way to go. One thing to know about phosphorus is that it binds easily with the soil in the top few inches making it unavailable to the plant. The best way to add phosphorus to the soil is to incorporate it before the Brugs are planted or mix a dry form of it farther down , but you risk damaging the roots. Most soils usually have enough phosphorus. Potting mixes include it.
Those recipes that add humic acid or humate teas utilize the existing phosphorus by unbinding it and making it available.
Other ingredients are existing fertilizers that could be used individually.
Not using at least the basic ingredients means you are leaving out vital nutrients. The idea behind these recipes is to provide a small amount of a 'complete' fertilizer every day so it's available when the plant needs it.
I have the beer, epsom salts, molasses, peroxide,ammonia, but i do not have the tea tree oil.. would the peroxide be alright instead? I just refuse to par $11 for a teeny bottle of tea tree oil. things are tight, thats not an expense Im willing to endure.
thanks betty.. will try and get some.. for now, I made a batch using the peroxide, beer, ammonia, epsom salt, molasses and bloom booster.. will use that up and then the next batch will hopefully have the tea tree oil in it :)
I thought the alfalfa like you find in horse feed was important. But now i think that may be what the molasses does. Am I right? I am not serious enough to mix all that stuff but i always add something with phosphorus, like bone meal because my soil is low in phosphorus. I also use lime because my soil is acidic.
Thank you, Bettydee, for all the in formation on what each thing does in the recipe. People ask but I just say it works but now I can tell them what each thing does. They will think I am very smart for and East Texason.
If you count nine posts back or so, BettyDee has listed what every ingredient is for. The really seems to be sort of iffy, but some places on the internet say it is to encourage microbial activity. I don't use it because we have lots of snails and they flock to it.
Terese, the recipe is really good for other plants too. I actually mix big buckets and use it as a soil drench on all my perennials. But it's especially good for roses. I'm not a rose person but that's what I keep hearing. :)
at first, all i had was compost tea [i have one of those tumblers with a base that fills with the liquid] last year I purchased some SuperThrive... been adding that. after finding this thread, i've since added peroxide and Liquid seaweed.
I also have Tea Tree oil in the house and the epsom salts. i just have to remember to add those. oh heck... beer, yup, DH has a twin tapper in the DR, we always have beer. I think i have some Black Strap buried in the back of a cabinet too... i'll have to look for that.
I'll give the roses a good soaking ... I do give them banana peels and they seem to like that. did really well the year i remembered to do it.
Does anyone have a problem with ingredients that seem to attract wildlife? Any time I use anything with a fish odor (seaweed, fish emulsion,etc.) I notice that I am visited by all the neighborhood cats------and raccoons. And, when I put out banana peels, I frequently find that they have been dug up the next day------by some one?
this sounds terrible, but I have three neighborhood tom cats that our neighbors leave out aoll the time, they use allmy flower beds as potty rooms, but now since last year when I started using wooden shishkabob sticks stuck in pointed side up,, they do not enter my yard anymore..
you can also soak a few cloths in vinegar and leave tucked in amongst the plants to repel cats... they hate vinegar! eventually, the smell will fade (to human noses) but the cats will still be able to detect it
If you remember--they used to have this set of 6 "Popsicle Makers". Each one had a small lid with a little slot for you to stick the Popsicle stick through it.
Well--one of the "side uses" for these was to fill it with Ammonia, put the lid on it and bury them in the ground near shrubs, etc...with just the top exposed...Easy to re-fill as needed...
NO dog or cat would go near that area! Most animals hate to smell Ammonia! So do we, right?
Perhaps Dollar stores sell Popsicle makers???? Any others?
IF vinegar is harmful--I don't think Ammonia is----I will stand corrected here...
I hunted the sea kelp here would have to go to tampa a ride and had to buy quite a bit I found it on ebay 1 pound dry 16 dollars with shipping 4 oz makes a gallon of consentrate or you could 1 teaspoon per gallon of water So if anyone needs it there it is!
Sugar is food in the plant world, so I would not go light beer but whatever is cheep. Plant B-12 is the cheapest but I have never used it, so do not know how much.to add. I have never use Miracle Grow but some water soluble fertilizers have miners and trace elements that would help the mix but I would never use Bloom Booster on Brugs because it is high in phosphorus and Brugs do not like high phosphorus.
GREAT thread! Can't wait to try out some of the recipes here.
I inherited some pump type sprayers (guessing 2 gallon size maybe?) from my MIL.
Since she'd been known to go a little nuts w/RoundUp, does anyone have a good method for cleaning these that I can be assured that stuff is OUT of these sprayers?
A good practice to develop is to have one sprayer per use: for example, 1 for pesticides, 1 for herbicides and 1 for fertilizer. You can never get the chemical used previously out completely. Plastics are porous enough to 'soak' up some of the stuff you've used in the sprayer. Because we use some herbicides on the pastures, I've had to get my Applicator's License and that's one of the first things that is mentioned in class.
Stephanie, did you mean lite beer (low cal) or light (color) vs dark? I pretty much only use leftovers, and we never have dark beer around here, so light is all I've ever used, and it's usually lite too. If you're buying it for plants, though, go for non-lite and definitely go cheap. The plants don't much care about the taste. :)
Someone wrote somewhere else on DG that it was pretty odd that some of use beer on our plants. I have a better answer now about why it works than I did when I posted before. The beer both adds and attracts healthy microorganisms in the soil--acidophilus (did I spell that right) and some others that are known to stimulate plant growth. You can spend a lot of money and time buying those same cultures and growing them yourself and then spreading them on your plants. Or, you can add the stuff to the soil that will attract them--much cheaper and as simple as watering. Beer is one. I also use leftover soda pop and milk. I don't spray with the recipe, so I can't say what benefit there is in spraying, but I'm sure if Ken does it, it's a great idea.
I have slugs too, onewish, because I also have a lot of hostas. Not those big ugly two-inch things, but still slugs. The beer is very diluted, and it soaks in and dries pretty fast anyway, so I haven't found that it makes the problem any worse. Actually haven't had many problems at all, but I do know ants and flies are attracted to the sugar. There was this time we spread horticultural-grade molasses (dry) on the lawn, and every fly within 100 miles was in our yard the next day. Fun stuff!
I have some comments about what looks to me to be some conflicts in the Recipe ingredients. I'm sure that overall it works fine as a fertilizer because of the massive NPK (and Magnesium/Sulfur in Epsom salts), but I'm wondering if some of you are pouring money down the drain with the more expensive ingredients:
1) I saw that few mentioned pouring this on the soil instead of spraying the leaves. My concern is that the Tea Tree oil is a fungicide working opposite of all the sugar/carbs/yeast ingredients that are there to boost soil microorganisms (mycorrhizae) that speed the uptake of nutrients. "Fungicide" is just a fancy word for poison, but a very mild one that only kills the tiny plants. Fungicide kills mycorrhizae and I think it is less than beneficial for regular frequent use directly in the soil.
2) The beer also seems like money wasted if you are going to use it as a foliar spray only and leave in the Tea Tree oil. Again the fungicide/poison is working against the natural yeast and microorganisms. Perhaps plain table sugar would work as well for much cheaper if you are still using the TT oil.
3) Vitamin B12... did you guys really mean B1? I think B12 would be a waste of money.
4) Vitamin B1. This was originally pushed by the Superthrive guys in the 1940's after one university study showed benefits to plant growth. It was later debunked and the results couldn't be repeated by others, but it has still been one of the most persistent of gardening myths to hang around. Numerous studies have shown that most all growing plants produce more than they need of B1, inside the plant, and the additives are a waste of money.
5) Superthrive. This one is the worst. Basically 2 active ingredients: B1, which I already explained, and the plant hormone (auxin) NAA. NAA works just ok as a rooting hormone. It causes existing plant surface to "differentiate" or convert more existing area to root growth, but it is in a careful *balance* with other plant hormones, and trying to fudge nature has it's price. It actually inhibits plant growth. Anecdotal evidence sometimes see it working miracle resurrections from sickly plants, but that is from the rooting hormone growing some basic roots. You have to stop using it right away or your plant will always be suppressed in top growth. That is why all plant trials using Superthrive show no benefit to using it regularly.
Sorry for being the cranky old spoilsport ;) but would love to see you get even better results; or at least the same results a lot cheaper. :)
Tom, thanks for your input. Those are some pretty good concerns. I think I was the one who said I typically use this as a soil drench, rather than a spray. I can't address most of the things you listed because I don't use Superthrive or B1 or tea tree oil. Actually I have used tea tree oil, but only as a spray and only when a fungicide is needed for a particular problem.
Onewish, the molasses is the natural sugar that attracts and feeds the soil microorganisms. It can have very dramatic results on a lawn or flower bed. Just--ahem--be sure to water it in lightly if you buy a bag and spread it dry. :)
Good question! Here is a articular posted on Daves
This myth has been circulated among gardeners for well over a hundred years. No one is quite sure when or where exactly it got started.
In 1890 Peter Henderson whose was known as "the father of horticulture and ornamental gardening" in the United States recommended that refuse hops from breweries made an excellent fertilizer. This is one possibility of how the beer myth began. hy beer? It was thought that beer offers vitamins and minerals that could benefit plant growth. It was theorized that beer fed beneficial microorganisms that live in the soil.
Beer contains water, carbon dioxide, ethanol (alcohol), a variety of carbohydrates (sugars), and a small amount of proteins. Will these ingredients in the amounts found in beer really benefit in plant growth and development?
An experiment was set up in a university laboratory.
The test was set up with hydroponic conditions (in order to rule out any factors that soil might play in the test). Buddleia (butterfly bush) was the plant of choice for the test. Three different beers were chosen for the test; Michelob Light, Guinness and an alcohol-free beer, Sharps. The beer was added to the water along with a low concentration a liquid fertilizer such as might be found in a garden's soil. Six plants were grown in each type of beer.
The results were very clear, alcohol is bad for plant growth, beer with alcohol is bad for plant growth, and beer without alcohol is bad for plant growth. The plants that were grown without beer and only the same amount of fertilizer did much better than all of the plants grown with beer.
As far as the theory of beer adding yeast to your garden soil is baseless; yeast is readily available to your garden from plenty of other sources.
Pull up a chair, grab an icy mug and treat yourself to a cold beer if you like, but don't waste your money pouring it on the garden.
Can I 'LIKE" this post please? LOL I save rain water from my barrels and add a bit of turtle poos and buffalo chip powder during winter for watering, everything is fine, I use windex and sometimes tea tree oil and listerine mixed with water for bugs, so far the plants are doing great. My hydroponics tub gets the old fish filter bags dumped into it and I add rain water to that tub and water from there as well. I have tried all versions of mixes listed here.. Beer is now used for beer batter bread. ;)
Debra ~ you are too cute! My beer goes in my tummy. In all honesty I have never tried the beer thing on my plants. Some swear by it. But not me... mine seems to disappear out of the bottle before I can mix it in. LOL