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Soil and Composting: Suggestions for FAQs on composting and soil?

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PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

April 27, 2009
4:16 PM

Post #6470388

Do you folks think it would be worthwhile to put together a "Composting 101" FAQ and a "Soil Health 101" FAQ for this forum? If so, kindly suggest the questions & answers that you'd like to see if you were a beginner. If we get enough material together to satisfy y'all, I'll gladly type up & format each FAQ in a concise post that will hopefully be "sticky worthy."

5/11/09 Update: I'll keep a draft FAQ running at http://brainshavings.com/gardening/composting-faq.htm as we hash out details here.

This message was edited May 11, 2009 12:21 PM

carrielamont

carrielamont
Bedford, TX
(Zone 8a)

April 27, 2009
4:34 PM

Post #6470461

Certainly a huge list of all the stuff one can compost!
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)

April 28, 2009
2:07 AM

Post #6472859

Ways to keep critters out of one's pile (can you guess my most recent dilemma?)

HoneybeeNC

HoneybeeNC
Charlotte, NC
(Zone 7b)

April 28, 2009
1:49 PM

Post #6474321

Here's some hints from Paul James the Gardener Guy:

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/sw_soil_improvement/article/0,,DIY_14370_2270566,00.html

carrielamont

carrielamont
Bedford, TX
(Zone 8a)

April 28, 2009
2:23 PM

Post #6474443

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBzriA2UANg
Soferdig
Kalispell, MT
(Zone 4b)

May 1, 2009
2:28 AM

Post #6486810

I lived here for several years and everyone wanted to know the use of coffee grounds, the mix of carbon (define types) and nitrogen (grass), how to easily layer the compost when collection is at different times (one bin with carbon and another one with the layered active mix of grass/plant material, the importance of moisture, how long it takes to get going, how to heat it up, when is it done, what is not good for the compost (nothing but meat and fats), what type of critters are in the compost and are they good or bad (ants, worms, centipedes, pill bugs, etc), why off ground composting (composters) is not as fast (too dry, no soil bacteria available, lack of access of bugs,etc), the advantage of maceration of plant material and how to do it with chipper shredders and lawn mowers, and last if not in a hurry just let nature do it's thing.
Katye
Sammamish, WA
(Zone 7b)

May 2, 2009
5:10 AM

Post #6491915

Just a thought:
this may not work well online, but consideration might be given to pictures of compost in various stages. I've thought about the questions I've been peppered with over the years, and realized that some folks do best with visual aids.
Also - pics of existing soil (up close & personal), that same soil immediately after compost has been added, then at 6 months or so. Helps some see the end of the tunnel.
Most who venture into gardening eventually wrap their heads around the long-term aspects, and arrive at the understanding of why soil-building is vital to the health of plants & the sanity of the gardener.
Keeping things simple will lessen the frustration of too much information to digest.
An emphasis on flexibility (there is not ONE right way) as there are times when components may not be readily available.
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 2, 2009
4:39 PM

Post #6493341

The photograph idea is excellent! Before/during/after composting, clay soil, sandy soil, etc. I like it!

carrielamont

carrielamont
Bedford, TX
(Zone 8a)

May 2, 2009
8:06 PM

Post #6494044

Yeah, I do too!
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 2, 2009
9:59 PM

Post #6494447

Who's got some photographs to share?
Katye
Sammamish, WA
(Zone 7b)

May 3, 2009
2:08 AM

Post #6495276

Looks like it's time to start. I think it would be great for many to do as it would facilitate
cataloging of the different soil types that are represented throughout the various regions.
If these could be shown & described it will most likely benefit many folks.
Soferdig
Kalispell, MT
(Zone 4b)

May 3, 2009
5:08 PM

Post #6497446

I have one of clay before and I could take one of 4 years later in the same area. I even dug down and photoed the deep clay. I'll look today in a hole I need to dig. Problem is I lost my camera 2 wks ago. When I get a new on or wait I have a non-digital. I can have it loaded on CD at Wallymart.
Katye
Sammamish, WA
(Zone 7b)

May 4, 2009
4:30 AM

Post #6500544

sounds good - I was so busy today that I never got back inside for the camera.
But I did get many things moved & a lot of lovely mulch down into the beds. I need more hours in my day. The thunderstorm interfered a bit, too. Back to work-work tomorrow...
shirleyd
Starkville, MS

May 4, 2009
11:09 AM

Post #6501045

I am a long time gardener----but have just realized that I have a couple of spots in my garden (actually in 2 areas) where the perennials rarely come back the next year. For a long time I thought it was just those particular plants-----but, now I realize that 90% of the plants put in these spots fail to return the next year. Does anyone have a suggestion? The university in my town tests soil-------but just for fertilizer needed. Plants that have failed to return are old stand-bys like pg hydrangeas and angel trumpets. I live in Zone 7b.

Thank you,
Shirleyd
Soferdig
Kalispell, MT
(Zone 4b)

May 4, 2009
6:23 PM

Post #6503130

Is it irrigated, is it too wet, have they burried concrete after building, is it clay or slab of rock underneath, what color were the Hydrangias when bloomed (too alkaline), did lightning strike there in the last 3 years, was it a landing site with aliens? Lots of questions. Get a PH meter and test it relative to the soil around in your garden. Dig at least 18" deep and look for rock or whatever, check you soaker hose pressure at the end of the line there. Just ideas.
shirleyd
Starkville, MS

May 6, 2009
11:01 AM

Post #6511410

Soferdig-----thanks for all your suggestion but I don't think any apply. It is in the center of a large garden and has grown things for years. I am suspicious of a fungus in the soil----and fear that it is spreading. I had one plant that died examined at the local university, and they said that it had a fungus-----so I fear that it is in the soil and not just in that plant. To drench the entire area is too overwhelming for me (77)-------so, I may just put annuals in these areas.

Thank you,
Shirleyd
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 11, 2009
5:01 AM

Post #6532429

Here are some frequently asked questions that came to mind:

1) What materials can I compost?
2) What materials shouldn't I compost, and why?
3) How long does composting take, & how will I know that my compost is finished?
4) Should I compost with a pile, a bin, a tumbler, or some other method?
5) What's the ideal mix of raw materials, & how hard should I try to achieve it?
6) Isn't composting a smelly, messy, unsightly, & labor-intensive process?
7) How much compost do I need for my garden/beds/yard?
8) OK, I'm convinced. How should I start?

Suggested answers are welcome.
Texas_Viola
Arlington, TX

May 11, 2009
7:28 AM

Post #6532537

I have just started composting, got my bin 2 weeks ago! I live in the DFW area of TX...maybe a strange question, but is it possible that a venomous snake could hang out in the compost bin? We do have some snakes in the yard like the shy and elusive tx brown snakes which are super cool, but I actually have been feeling the need to be ready to bolt when I open the lid of the bin lately out of the fear of rats or potentially life threatening snakes. I did see a rattlesnake that had sadly been run over a few miles away recently...

Anyway, maybe snakes could be added to the above suggestion pertaining to possible compost critter invaders in the FAQ?

I am also curious to know about pine needles, weeds, and fungi. I have had WEIRD things like large alien mushrooms appear overnight after rain as well as white/see through/clear umbrella shaped fungi. Unlike the mushroomy things, the clear things go away after a few hours but return with the rain... Will this or the spores that could unknowingly get into the composted material be a problem?

I REALLY like the idea of a concise FAQ in one spot for folks like me who are new to composting and to DG, that would be totally amazing and extremely helpful. I have been reading for hours (LOL) and am far more confused than when I began!!!

Everyone here totally rocks, thanks!
Peg64
Berkey, OH
(Zone 6a)

May 11, 2009
3:33 PM

Post #6533813

I would add to your suggested questions, Puddle:

9. Now what do I do with the compost? For instance, do I put the compost on top of the mulch or under it? Do I have to dig it into the soil? Can I use unfinished compost? How?

Should be a good source of info for all.
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 11, 2009
3:38 PM

Post #6533835

Those are good questions too, Peg.

Update: I'll keep a draft FAQ running at http://brainshavings.com/gardening/composting-faq.htm as we hash out details here.

This message was edited May 11, 2009 12:22 PM
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 12, 2009
9:08 PM

Post #6540186

Any suggested answers? Bueller? Bueller?
Qinx
Fredericksburg, VA
(Zone 7a)

May 14, 2009
1:58 PM

Post #6547202

All the following responses are my own thoughts and ideas that I have formed through experience and research. I am not an expert, nor are my thoughts based on scientific testing or analysis. Generally I look at my garden/yard, and the area that looks healthier and green is generally the areas that I've added compost of some sort.

Q: Should I compost with a pile, a bin, a tumbler, or some other method?
My thoughts: You should compost using a method that fits your life style and requirements. There is no one best method. If you are limited on space perhaps you need a bin or tumbler. Perhaps worms (Vermicomposting) will work for you. Bokashi is another method, but I have not personally utilized this method. If you have lots of space in the yard and plenty of yard waste then a bin or pile may work for you. Our family has a worm composter in the house and a home made bin outside. Do what works for you.

Q: What's the ideal mix of raw materials, & how hard should I try to achieve it?
My thoughts: Second question first, you should not have to try hard to compost. Composting should be something that compliments your lifestyle naturally given the time and space you have to dedicate to it. If you eat out 7 days a week and have little scraps or you have no yard, then composting may not be best for you. If you have a large family and produce bag after bag of waste every day, then composting may be great for you.

Now back to the first question. The "right mix" depends on your type of composting. For vermicomposting you should be a little selective on what you feed your worms. I've never done Bokashi, so I have no idea. For hot/cold piles ideally you want a 50% green to 50% brown ratio in your mix. 60/40, 40/60, 52/48, who cares. just make sure it's a mix. There is no perfect mix. If you don't have a lot of leaves or browns, shredded cardboard and paper can be substituted. Now before people jump all over me about bad ink, chemicals, etc. you are probably right. Do not use glossy papers, pictures, etc. Most newspapers in the U.S. are now printed with soy inks and/or biodegradable inks. Use your own judgment and go for it. Check out these search results http://www.google.com/search?q=things to compost

Q: Isn't composting a smelly, messy, unsightly, & labor-intensive process?
My thoughts: It's not smelly unless you cause an anaerobic atmosphere. Anaerobic is an environment that lacks oxygen. The smell is what garbage smells like after being in a bag or some situation where oxygen cannot help the process. Vermicomposting or outdoor bin/pile composting should smell like earth/nature, but not putrid. If you've ever walked through a forest on a damp morning miles away from anything think of the dirt smell you get from the ground.

Q: How much compost do I need for my garden/beds/yard?
My thoughts: My research says you should add 1/2" or more compost to your garden/beds/yard each year.

Q: OK, I'm convinced. How should I start?
My thoughts: First you must make the commitment to do so. Being convinced is not always motivation on its own. You must take action. Make your own or purchase a bin that suites your lifestyle and requirements.


Q: How can I keep animals from getting into the compost?
My thoughts: Do not place meats or dairy in your compost. Use a closed bin with adequate ventilation/holes for air. Place a fence around your compost pile. Place a wire mesh under your compost pile if you have animals burrowing from beneath.


Q: How do I use the compost? For instance, do I put the compost on top of the mulch or under it? Do I have to dig it into the soil?
My thoughts: Finished compost can be used as a top mulch or soil additive. As an additive you should turn under a couple inches right in your bed/garden mixing with existing soil to improve its structure. If using it as a seed starter or seedling transplant mix I'd recommend sterilizing it before use. If you are using lasagna gardening or some other method, just mix it in like you would any other soil additive. Top dressing your yard is as easy as using a leaf rake and spreading 1/2" over the grass and allowing it to settle in.

Q: Can I use unfinished compost? How?
My thoughts: My answer to this depends on how unfinished the compost is. If you can still identify the apple or grapefruit you tossed in a while back, then no, you should not be tossing that compost out on your front lawn or garden. If you find strands of grass or the occasional leaf, then it is probably fine. Unfinished compost is better used as a mulch as it can finish decomposing in a flower bed or vegetable garden. If you can make or obtain a sifter then usually the particals you separate are good for use and anything left in the sifter can go back into the pile. Google http://www.google.com/search?q=compost sifter for more information on sifters.

Q: Mushrooms are growing in my compost. Is that bad?
My thoughts: I guess it depends on the mushroom. Fungi love decomposing materials so that's where they grow. Most are harmless, just don't eat the mushrooms unless you are certain of the kind you have!




This message was edited May 14, 2009 7:06 PM
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)

May 14, 2009
3:40 PM

Post #6547641

Very helpful and informative answers, Qinx! You really covered things nicely.

A few additions: Regarding the Bokashi method of composting: see the article below, written by a Daves Garden author:

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/109/

Regarding obtaining compostable materials, even if you do not generate them yourself:
You can collect used coffee grounds from Starbucks for free. You can also cadge your neighbors' yard waste (leaves, grass clippings.) Mine are happy to off-load theirs to me. You can collect vegetable & fruit "trimmings" from the produce-person at your local market. If your local restaurant offers "doggie bags," just take home what you don't eat at the meal and compost it!

It all takes a little effort, but that's where your commitment to composting comes into play!


PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 14, 2009
10:15 PM

Post #6549149

Excellent information & reasoning! Can't wait to hear more from other experienced composters!
Katye
Sammamish, WA
(Zone 7b)

May 16, 2009
12:35 AM

Post #6554123

Thank you Qinx!
My thoughts exactly - keep it simple, and always emphasize the need to use what you have available. For those who have LOTS of time on their hands, a more complex method or system is great. for those of us who have full time jobs, kids, property & other responsibilities to take care of, simplification is best. It all rots eventually...

I believe the whole point is to invest in the health of your available soil - be it acreage or several small containers. Presenting it as a somewhat flexible system will draw more folks in. Many are turned off by excessive rules as well as the "there's only one right way" dogma.
Composting is empowering as well as satisfying, and what I would want someone to experience.
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)

May 16, 2009
3:05 AM

Post #6554696

So true, Katye. Keep it simple. I find myself gleefully saying "everything rots" to friends and family, who look at me strangely.
Thanks for organizing us, Puddle.
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 16, 2009
4:00 AM

Post #6554994

My pleasure! I'm enjoying this whole process, and I'm learning stuff too.

I've added Qinx's contributions to the draft FAQ (http://brainshavings.com/gardening/composting-faq.htm).

This message was edited May 16, 2009 12:50 AM
Qinx
Fredericksburg, VA
(Zone 7a)

May 27, 2009
3:16 PM

Post #6604418

Here is a link to a good page on Compost information.

http://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/452/452-231/452-231.html

PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 29, 2009
5:32 PM

Post #6614282

Who else would like to add some questions? Fire away!
kenboy
Big Sandy, TX
(Zone 8a)

June 3, 2009
12:15 PM

Post #6635171

Quantity is far more important quality.
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

July 11, 2009
11:39 AM

Post #6805543

Who's got more questions that they'd like answered?
betsy_VA
Vienna, VA
(Zone 7a)

July 12, 2009
9:40 AM

Post #6809211

I've got some questions!! (I'm just getting started myself -- I have figured out the answers to some of the questions below, but I thought I'd contribute some of my "newbie" questions anyway...)

Does it matter how quickly you build a compost pile?

Should you layer or just toss everything in?

Where should you position your compost pile?

Does it have to be on a level surface?

Does a compost pile need some kind of drainage?

For the box-type versus tumbler debate -- are there any compost materials that do better in a tumbler versus a conventional box compost pile?

What effect does climate have on composting? Are there specific recommendations for specific zones?

How do I winterize my compost piles?

How long can I leave finished compost? What if I think my compost is done but I don't have a use for it -- can I store it? How should I store it?
betsy_VA
Vienna, VA
(Zone 7a)

July 12, 2009
9:53 AM

Post #6809223

And one more big question:

Why should I try to "manage" my compost pile as opposed to just throwing stuff onto it and leaving it alone?

I ask this one because I think it's an important concept for newbies to grasp. Please correct me if I am wrong, but the impression I am getting is that managing your compost pile -- that is, considering the ratios, balancing your greens and browns, turning and aerating it -- has two effects: speeding up the composting process, and alleviating smells. Right? People talk about "perfect compost" but really it seems to me like ALL compost piles will EVENTUALLY be perfect given enough time. The reasons why you manage your compost are to speed it up, and to some degree keep the chemical processes compatible with your living situation (e.g., smells).

This might seem elementary to most gardeners here but I suggest making it clear to newbies that "compost happens" ("everything rots") and all we do with our techniques is speed it up and keep it from being objectionable by our human standards. So the degree to which you have to manage your pile depends on WHEN you want your compost done and HOW you need your compost to develop.

Just my two cents. Now I'm going to go see if my tumbler has heated up yet...
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

July 12, 2009
4:08 PM

Post #6810097

Excellent! Who wants to take the first crack at answering one?
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)

July 12, 2009
6:28 PM

Post #6810595

Quoting:How long can I leave finished compost? What if I think my compost is done but I don't have a use for it -- can I store it? How should I store it?

My experience is thus: I store mine covered in plastic bins until I need it--can be weeks or months. Open to the rain, the "goodies" in finished compost can leach out into the ground before you get them where you want them to go!
Soferdig
Kalispell, MT
(Zone 4b)

July 17, 2009
5:03 AM

Post #6829579

Composting is simple. Pile it up on the ground and it will become compost in 4 weeks or 4 years. It all depends on C:N ratios and Oxygen. But I don't want to wait cause the pile gets excessive in size. 2 bin method: Bin 1 chipped up new carbon clippings from the garden, Layered with Milorganite or a small amount or grass kept moist. 2 to 1 volume (more if you have more grass) or (2 to .1 milorganite) volume ratio. Keep layering the seasonal chipped or shredded material until the season ends (say spring clean up) . By May the pile is big and cooking and I wait for it to heat up (outside). Then in June I flip it to bin #2 and this has allowed Oxygen to get to it again. It is aready black and looks good. Then I wait until September- October where it now is 1/3 the size it origionally was (cooked). Then I put it on the garden and watch the world become wet and cold waiting for spring and Boom my plants are strong and beautiful all summer. Then I start the fall clean up with Bin 1 followed by bin 2 in the spring. I actually store the remaining compost in Bin 3 all winter and use it on potted plants and house plants as tea. I live in a cold climate so winter is a compost rest time.

This message was edited Jul 16, 2009 11:05 PM

This message was edited Jul 16, 2009 11:15 PM

Thumbnail by Soferdig
Click the image for an enlarged view.

Duchess61
Indialantic, FL

July 20, 2009
9:40 AM

Post #6840629

I have just started (about 6 weeks ago) composting, and I'm probably doing it wrong! I am using a kitchen-size trash can, lined with a black plastic bag. I live in coastal So. FL, and it is hot and humid here, plus it is the rainy season. I keep the iid on the trash can. I have lots of pine needles, which I put in the bin, plus some garden soil, plus coffee grounds and egg shells and veggie peelings, corn cobs, etc. I have a bad back and am old (70) so I can't move things around much. Some days I pour left-over coffee in the mix. Some days I just add a little water when I water my container garden. All the people in my neighborhood use garden services, and their machines take the grass
clippings and mulch them and nothing green is left behind, so there is no bagged grass to add.
Should I add some lime, and if so how much? My cats use pine nugget litter - should I add that? By
the time the litter gets changed, most of the nuggets have disintegrated into smelly sawdust like
material. The trash can is in the sun for most of the day, so I think it is heating up inside, but it does smell when I take the lid off. Should I be leaving the lid off for part of the day? All day? Any help you can make will be gratefully accepted!!!
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)

July 21, 2009
12:29 AM

Post #6843950

Hi Duchesse:
I'm going to let other, wiser folks answer your questions about composting "anaerobically" (without oxygen) and reducing the smell by using lime. I compost in plastic bins that are open on the bottom, and have air-holes on the sides and top.

Regarding composting used kitty-litter: here's what I found on the internet. The quote is taken from the source below.

http://www.grist.org/article/kittylitter/

"Cats can carry the disease toxoplasmosis and pass it on to us via oocysts (a dormant stage of the disease) in their feces. This disease can be fatal to infants and immune-system-deficient adults, and make the rest of us sick. Do not handle cat poop if you are pregnant, and don't let small children do it either. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling cat poop, no matter who you are.

That said, you can compost your catbox contents! Use a separate container from your other compost. It doesn't need to be fancy -- a small trash can with holes in the bottom and a tight lid will be fine. Just put the soiled litter in, and after all the poop has been in there anaerobically composting for over a year, spread it on your ornamental plants. Or you can bury fresh feces in a foot-deep hole, though not within 100 feet of a water source. Do not put fresh or composted cat poop in your vegetable garden. And if you have kids playing in your yard, I wouldn't do any of this."
Duchess61
Indialantic, FL

July 21, 2009
4:49 PM

Post #6846462

Thanks, Cape Cod Gardener! I used to spend 2 weeks in a converted 2 car garage in Truro, no hot water, propane gas stove, indoor toilet but no shower -- and loved it. Made beach plum cordial every year to take back to NJ, and also made BP jam and jelly if there were enough beach plums once the cordial was made (you can see what my priorities are!!) Will beach plums grow in FL?? Do you know of any way to get ripe ones shipped to FL? Loved the Portugese style fish we got in Wellfleet, and the lobster rolls and visiting the antique shops and playing bridge on the beach; my son loved the lighthouses, and for entertainment (we were poor!) we went to P-town in the evening and watched the people go by! Gave Chris a dollar to spend at the candy store -- good for at least an hour -- and shopped the Navy surplus store. Once caught a Coast Guard ship just in with a boat full of blue fish, which they were giving away so as not to compete with the regular fishermen, and they even filleted it for me! Heated water to bathe my son each night, but hubby and I took showers at the Nat'l Seashore facility! That was 40 years ago. . . ah, the good old days! And wonderful corn chowder at Friendlies! They don't have it at the Friendlies down here.

Will try burying the kitty litter. My cats are indoor cats, never go outside, does that make them less likely to carry toxoplasmosis? I spread some fresh kitty litter on some weeds once, and the weeds died, which was my goal - easier than digging them up. But I was afraid to do it again for fear of killing something that wasn't a weed. If I put it in a trash can, should I mix in regular soil every so often?

Also, what about seaweed? If I drag some home from the beach, should I wash it to remove salt?
Or can I just add it to the regular compost bin? Does it matter what kind of seaweed I get?
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 2, 2010
7:24 PM

Post #7758612

Anybody want to take another crack at this?
CapeCodGardener
Mid-Cape, MA
(Zone 7a)

May 2, 2010
8:43 PM

Post #7758795

[quote}Also, what about seaweed? If I drag some home from the beach, should I wash it to remove salt?[/quote]
What I've heard is that you don't really need to wash seaweed that washes up on the beach. Just add it to your compost bin, or spread it as mulch.

HoneybeeNC

HoneybeeNC
Charlotte, NC
(Zone 7b)

May 3, 2010
10:20 AM

Post #7760266

We used to gather seaweed when I was a child and scatter it on the ground - but only after everything had been removed from the garden. The winter rains washed away the salt.
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

May 25, 2010
12:06 PM

Post #7826451

Anybody feel like helping to kick-start this FAQ project?

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

May 25, 2010
2:51 PM

Post #7827063

I think this is a FAQ project IN PROGRESS, now, as we speak!

Uh, I've been told that the inks currently used are no longer toxic to the compost piles...
nutsaboutnature
Algonquin, IL
(Zone 5a)

May 27, 2010
10:52 AM

Post #7833379

PuddlePirate, I just read yesterday about some people having problems with fly larva (maggots) in their bins/piles. As a newbie, I don't have a clue. Is this a common problem & if so, have all you experienced composters figured out a way to deal with it?
Is it something worth adding to a FAQ Project?

What about this FAQ that I read in DG, but you rarely see in other composting info? I had no idea you could use compost when it wasn't completely broken down. All the pictures show stuff that looks like finely sifted black soil.

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

May 27, 2010
1:23 PM

Post #7833858

I have had the black Soldier Fly larvae (maggots) in some bags of coffee grinds I was holding for the compost pile. I was told to just dump 'em into the compost pile because they, like all the other little workers, would help aerate the decomp, and wouldn't hurt the pile at all.

It worked, and I never saw them again. Although, I did have a coupla big BLACK flies around for a minute. But a trusty swatter took care of that problem!

Uh, ya'll need visuals, so here's one!

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/p.php?pid=4611737

Thumbnail by Gymgirl
Click the image for an enlarged view.

meisgreen
Phoenix, AZ

June 3, 2010
12:27 PM

Post #7855600

Gymgirl, Black soldier flys aren't native around here but a couple of months ago I introduced about 100 of them to my pile (they're expensive! Sold here for reptile food because they are high in calcium). Over time there were fewer and fewer and then I could only find one. After a week they were back again. So somone survived and past on their genes. We're suppose to reach 110 by Sunday and I'm keeping my fingers crossed they will survive. They share the pile with regular fly maggots, of which I'm not thrilled but they do do the same job. They just bug us more later.
PuddlePirate
North Ridgeville, OH
(Zone 5b)

June 3, 2010
1:46 PM

Post #7855785

If you're determined to bet back flies in your compost, try these: http://www.naturescontrol.com/flyparasites.html

Gymgirl

Gymgirl
SE Houston (Hobby), TX
(Zone 9a)

June 11, 2010
10:14 AM

Post #7878848

Question: I'm having to break down my eBucket garden for awhile. Is there any way to store the potting mix/homemade compost mixture I use to grow in? I truly hate the thought of having to dump all my hard-earned potting mix.

RickCorey_WA

RickCorey_WA
Everett, WA
(Zone 8a)

September 17, 2010
2:53 PM

Post #8104619

Q: What should NOT go into the heap?
A: Gravel, pebbles and stones. You may want to shred or mow your heap if sticks get into it.


Q: Can I add wood to my compost heap?

A: Don't put branches, sticks or even big twigs _directly_ into the active compost heap. Leaves and very fine twigs are OK.

Pile bigger twigs, sticks and branches separately. They will rot faster if compacted and damp, so break them up enough to lie flat, with saw, axe, hatchet or machete.

When you get enough sticks to be worth chipping, run them through a chipper or run over them several times with a lawn mower. Try to get them smaller than chips. Shreds will decompose faster than chips.

If you use a mower, let big sticks or branches soften and rot for a time before trying to chop them. The mower will tell you if they are too big or hard for it. You may have to cut branches into short lengths so the mower can "get's teeth into them". You'll probably have to stir a pile of sticks a few times so the mower can get at all of them. Wear long pants to avoid splinters.

You may want to sharpen your lawn mower blade before and after. Mower manufacturers will tell you that mowing anything but grass is unsafe, and they may be right.

Even when chipped or shredded, wood will decompose slower than almost anything else. You may want a separate, "slow" pile for composting woody. It will drain fast, so water at least as often as you water the "fast" heap. Periodically turn in some green, nitrogen-rich stuff to keep the C & N balanced. Also feed it some microbe-rich active compost from the regular heap to keep it innoculated. Wood is cellulose-rich and has very little N to support micro-organisms.

When the woody pile is mostly pre-composted, mix it into the regular compost heap, which it will tend to lighten and aerate. This might be a good time to screen out bigger chips that have not broken down. Throw them back into the stick-pile for more aging.

This way, you won't slow down the composting of your soft stuff, but still get the value of the carbon in the wood, a season or a year later.

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