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I have seen recipes for pine in soap and wanted to try it. Today I did. It was very strange. I'm not sure if it ever actually traced. When I poured the lye water into the oil (that I had infused with pine gum), it looked like it was just about to trace, then all of a sudden it looked like orange split pea soup. I stirred for a little longer, but it didn't help. I just went ahead and poured it into the mold. Very strange. I'll check it tomorrow and see what it's like then.
Has anyone else ever tried pine gum/sap/pitch (whatever you call it) in your soap?
I ended up throwing this failed attempt away. I tried to stir it together after another day or two, but it never did really solidify. I'm pretty sure at this point I added way to much pine.
I make pine tar soap, using pine tar as about 20% of my oils. The rest of the oils are a blend of coconut, lard, and olive - as lard and olive are very slow to trace. I make sure my oils are pre-melted and mixed and then cooled to as close to room temp as I can get them and still have a clear liquid, and my lye solution is cooled to room temp as well. Even so, I stir a few times and then pour quickly or it's solid.
If yours stayed liquid it's probably because it never fully emulsified (sounds like it riced, though). If you still have it, try using a stick blender or to cook it (hot process).
Thanks for the info. My soap attempt didn't really stay liquid either, more of a goo than anything. I'll try again at some point.
Wouldn't pine tar make the soap smell kinda bad? Is there a difference in the properties of pine tar and pine sap? I understand that the tar is a bi-product of lumber making, but I've smelled it and it doesn't smell anything like "pine" to me. However, if it works to help people with skin problems, I guess it would be worth it.
I make pine tar soap and it does not smell like pine needles. It has a medicinal smell to me.
And sw1fty is right it traces real fast. First time I made it I had the oils around 100 degrees and the lye around 90 and used a stick blender and it seemed like seconds later I was trying to force rapidly setting soap into my mold. So I had lots of air bubbles. I think the pine tar emulsifies everything instantly so the lye gets to work right away. I now chill the oil and lye to 70 degrees then mix them. And as soon as I get the smooth chocolate color and the shine goes away as I blend it I check and if I get a slight trace I pour. And shortly after the batch is heating up and solidifying.
I'd love to try a true pine needle scent but the essential oils are to pricey for my taste.
I have thought about building a small still and making my own.
Well I'm glad I kept on looking Brambleberry carries steam distilled pine needle essential oil. So I ordered some and it is very nice. We made a batch of cold process soap and now I do not have to wait for Christmas when Bath and Body works carries pine scented soap. I need to make a 1 Lb mold though as the smallest mold I have is 3 Lbs and thats a lotta soap for home use!
I think three pounds is a good amount - the longer the soap matures, the harder the bar is, and the longer it should last when it's used. Having a somewhat large family, I usually make five pound batches - but then, I also sell soap as well.
I make a bar I call "Forest Fresh" that is very nice. For a 5.25 pound batch, I use 1 ½ tbsp pine eo, 1 tbsp lavender eo, 1 ½ tbsp eucalyptus eo, and ½ tbsp + 1 tsp cedarwood eo.
Essential oils can be pricey, but I've found that fewer people are sensitive to them than they are to fragrance oils. Also, I don't buy the most expensive oils to use in soaps - it would cost me a fortune! (Yes, there could be a debate about quality, but I'm not going to go there.)
