Just wanted to show off my latest project. I painted my kitchen counters. I wanted new ones and can't afford to be paying the prices they want for new counters so I took matters into my own hands and painted them. I still need to put about 3 to 4 coats of poly on them but thought I would post this now. This is the before pic.
Thanks for all the compliments. I was worried that it looked kind of bad. I think I may do the bathroom countertops next. I was scared to try it but figured if it didn't work out my DH would have to break down and buy me new counters since it was his idea. I got all the info on how to do it at this site http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf999197.tip.html .
I cleaned the counters with TSP... it cleans them well and gives the counters a little bit of a roughness for the paint to grab.
Then I primed them all with 2 coats of Zinssers primer and let them dry over night.
Then I painted my base coat. (I used taupe) and let dry over night.
Then I sponged on the other colors. I used some latex paint, some craft paint. Letting each color dry before applying the next color or it tends to get muddy. The paint drys really fast in this stage so not a lot waiting.
I let that dry over night and am now applying my Polyacrylic. On the website they talk about a product called Enviro Tek to seal it. That sounded hard to work with and scary to me so am using a water based Poly and my then top with an oil based Poly.
When you go to the website just scroll down a bit. They have tons of pictures and other suggestions for painting on there too.
Now I need new drawer pulls and cabinet knobs. Also need to paint the kitchen walls. It just keep snowballing!
With the finish I chose to use, you can not set hot pots and pans directly on them or cut directly on them. I never did any way. I've always used trivets, hotpads and cutting boards. You can't use abrasive cleaners either. There is another type of protective finish that they talk about on the website where you can set hot pans on them though.
I agree- your paint job technique looks super!
The most daring I have been is to paint over my backsplash tile. I had this ultra 70's style random shaped stone look tile in brown shades. I put a coat of white semigloss trim paint over it. Nothing very attractive but turned it neutral white instead of very dated ugly brown.
Kind of funny (or not) now brown is back in style big time
Sally~ that is LOL funny.. I love that saying, Kind of funny (or NOT) .. lol.. and its so true.. I am so glad to see Brown colors and tones are back in style.. Brown is my fav color, and of course we have those WHITE countertops with tile and grout.. I HATE them.. but the last owners were so proud of their work.. In my dreams I am taking a crow bar to them.. lol.. I want them gone, I don't think you can do anything with them except break them up and start all over with a new counter top..
Thanks for the compliments Darleen and Darla. I too saw this done on one of those home shows long ago and was really skeptical at the time but so far the counters are holding up fine. Though it has only been a few months. I don't 'baby' my counters, but I don't set hot items on them or cut on them. No problems, no regrets so far.
I am just wandering through forums I don't normally read, and had to open this thread because of the subject. I was all "what a mistake that is going to be" -- but I am converted! Wow, I think that is the best "FAUX" finish I have ever seen painted, and your instructions to do it are so clear! I'm not in the market for new countertop, but if I were I'd be hiring you!
I wonder if this would work for a walk in shower? Has anyone tried? I'm still kicking this idea around.. I mean our shower is great.. Works perfect, I just hate the color.. Then I was told that those are a prefab thing and it was placed in there as the house was being built.. So really don't need a new one just a new color...
Thanks for all the compliments spin and greersfolly. I chose this finish because it seemed easier to apply. Also if it didn't work out hubby said he would buy me new counter tops.
Dirt_Road I would think that if this were done in a shower area you would have to use a marine type acrylic to really protect it. Not sure if it would work there. I have noticed that if I let water sit too long in an area that it gets a funny look to it... kind of like it takes the finish off. But then after a few hours it goes back to normal and you can't see where it was. Kind of scared me at first.
Wow - I had no idea that this could even be done! You did a great job, it looks like granite in the photos...I have these horrible bathroom counters, supposed to look like stone. I hate it. I wonder if I could do this, do you mind saying how much it cost for materials?
jmp24 ... I had the primer, used about a quart. Then I painted a solid base coat color... I had that too but used less than a quart. Then I bought 4 different colors of latex paint in quarts. However I used so very little of the 4 colors because it is sponged on... I used less than an inch of paint out of each can. I barely dipped my sponge into the paint and blotted most of it off on paper towel. When sponging on be sure to turn your wrist in different directions or you'll get a pattern of the sponge going. If I do this again I would buy little samples of colors and that would be plenty. For the veining I used off white craft paint in those little bottles and watered it down real thin. Then dipped the whole brush in the paint and took most of it off by blotting it a paper towel then would lay my brush down and roll it between my fingers and pull at the same time. I used a little craft brush with long hairs to do it. Then I used the polycrylic. Used a little over a quart of that because I put on 5 coats. My total cost was around $75. Seeing that you are thinking about doing bathroom counters I would see if you could get the sample size paints. Then the cost would come down quite a bit. Not sure if you could get all the colors you want in samples though. Did you visit the web site I linked to in an earlier post? Tons of information and pictures there. Go for it. Very easy to do. I was scared to get started but am pleased with the results.
GayLynn, I'm getting ready to paint my counters and found your threads! I wish I had found your threads sooner though - I bought one of these kits http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/giani/index.html and I probably could have saved a little money if I had just bought the supplies myself. Hoping to get started this week - I'm going to paint the island first because it's easier and then I'll tackle the rest of the countertop when I feel a little more confident! I hope mine turn out as nice as yours - beautiful job :)
I didn't know these kits existed. Cool. Helps take the guess work out of which colors to get. Good Luck!!! I was scared to death to paint mine but figured if I messed it up I could just paint over it and try again or get brand new counter tops. My sister-in-law has since painted her bathroom counter top too. Please post pictures when you are done, would love to see them.
Wow! Love it! I too was just perusing around DG and found this thread, and I'm so glad I did! I like the kits, too... I think that is a very fair price ($40 for 16 running feet of countertop!). We can't afford to replace our countertops right now, but we could afford to do this and I am quite good at faux painting... I'm excited! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Brenda, if you do decide to do this, would love to see some pictures!
$40 is a very fair price! I want to do my bathroom counter tops next. I think I may pick up the kit. That's less expensive than what it cost me, plus the colors are all picked out already.
Thanks MargaretK... I went to a local Home Improvement store and picked out a sample chip of a granite counter top that I liked (but couldn't afford) and picked my colors off of that trying to get as close as possible to the colors in the chip. I ended up buying 5 different colors.
So I am sondering about heat on the painted countertops... I just have laminate, and of course I don't put things off the stove or just out of the oven on it, but some of my dishes get very hot when in the microwave and I do set them on the counter. I could probably easily revise that behaviour, but has anyone who has done this set anything hot on it?
Thanks in advance, again, I love this idea and I'm hoping it's my next project!
Since painting my counter tops I bought some pretty, decorative placemats and keep them handy just for that purpose. I did my counters back in May and really babied them for a bit. After a couple of weeks they were completely cured and I am not so careful with them now and have not had any problems. Though I still do not sit hot pans or dishes right on the counters. I've gotten used to grabbing the placemat or trivet now. Right after I first did them I noticed that if I did not wipe up water right away I would get a spot that it seemed like the finish was rougher and not as shiny... this would go away after a few hours. Now I can leave water on the counter without wiping it up right away and there is no problem.
GayLynn, my plans to start my counter project before Christmas were interrupted by our dog's illness but I finally started today!! Not quite as easy as I thought rolling on the base coat and I think I'll have to give it a second coat but at least I've started :) I've only painted the base coat so far on the island countertop, just getting my feet wet before I tackle the counters around the sink and walls but it already looks better just painted black! Made a trip to Lowes yesterday to see what they had for "real" countertops just in case this turns into a disaster and I need a back up plan. LOL Will post pics as soon as I have some to show you my progress.
Thanks for the inspiration but I'm stuck :( I need to apply another coat of the base color (black) and realize I'm going to need another can to finish the rest of the counters. Checked at True Value yesterday for a black paint I could use and the salesman couldn't offer any suggestions because he was worried I'd be mad at him if the paint he suggested didn't work! He suggested (and DH agreed) that I just suck it up and buy another can of the base coat from Giani where I bought the kit. Sorry...but I started to place my order - I can deal with the price of $8.95 but they want $9.95 for shipping and it's only a 12 fl. oz can!!! On top of that with the holidays they're not shipping until after January 8th :( I've done a ton of searching online this morning for a cheaper product I could buy locally but most everything that's suggested is oil based and the one I used is water based. Giani gives you absolutely no information about what the paint actually is - latex, satin finish, etc. GayLynn, I know you mentioned using a "solid base coat color" but can you be more specific - was it latex, etc.? I'm just really feeling the pinch here and know there must be something else I can use without spending almost $20.00 for a small can and having to wait over a week for it to arrive! Any suggestions would be most appreciated :)
The Giani website lists two stores in VA that carry their paint--I don't know if either one is close to you or not: http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/giani/stores.html If you decide to buy regular paint from the hardware store, the important thing is to match the type of paint that they have in the kit (water based/latex vs oil based). It doesn't matter what anyone else has used--if their kit uses oil and you buy latex paint or vice versa things won't work well, you need to match what's in the kit. (If the cleanup instructions on their paints tell you to clean with soap & water then they're water based/latex paint and if they tell you to use mineral spirits then they're oil based). Also since the black one is labeled as a primer, you might consider getting a primer instead of paint and see if they can tint it black, that should stick better to your counter surface and will provide a better base for the other colors than plain paint would.
ecrane, thanks I never thought about looking for stores that carry the Giani products! Unfortunately the two listed for VA are 4-6 hours away from me :( I do know the paint supplied with the kit for the base coat is latex but I guess what I'm trying to find out is whether it's flat or semi-gloss, not even sure it will make a difference since all of the black base coat is basically covered with the other three colors but I think it's probably semi-gloss because it did have a slight sheen to it. I'm taking the can to Sherwin Williams this afternoon and see what they suggest. Everything I've read leads me to believe that you can't "tint" a primer as dark as black? Guess I'll find out this afternoon. I'll probably be starting a new thread shortly - my projects for the next couple of months encompass more than just the countertops and I've got TONS of questions! Thanks again :)
Primers don't come in different finishes (since they assume you'll be putting paint over top of it), by themselves they have a fairly flat finish. The website says the black one is a primer so I'm assuming that would be the case for it, although I'm not sure what they have in their primer that wouldn't be in a typical primer so maybe theirs is a bit shinier than other primers. I'm not sure they can tint a primer all the way to black either, so if they can't then I'd suggest getting a black paint with a flat/satin finish rather than gloss or semigloss (the paint you put on top will probably stick better if what's underneath isn't too shiny, plus later on you'll be putting the shiny polyurethane on the top to give the whole thing a nice gloss so you don't need shine in the base coat). And since you're mostly going to be covering up the black and then everything's getting the poly on top, I don't think it'll matter if the sheen (or even the color) of the black that you buy matches exactly with the black from the kit.
Exactly what I thought! *grin* The salesman at Sherwin Williams was much more helpful than the one at True Value :) And yes, they can't tint "primers" as dark as black - I think that's just what it says on the can with the kit because you are priming, so to speak, to get ready for the additional coats? Whatever, he was very helpful and even though they had nothing smaller than a quart for $14.99 I have other "projects" where I'm contemplating using the paint :) Plus, I signed up online for their emails, got a $10.00 off coupon for purchases over $50.00 and 10% off additional for the other painting supplies I picked up - I AM a happy camper! NOW if I can get just things picked up and organized around here so I can get started on all the "other" projects LOL
Here's a pic of the before counter - not too bad - funny thing is, years ago I wanted dark green countertops so bad I resorted to using dark green contact paper on them because we couldn't afford to replace them way back then! A newer home now and I finally got them but once we put down the new ceramic tile on the floors last month I realized, yuck they've got to go! After 15 years they've really faded from the sunlight and are more of a teal color now :(
This is after the first coat yesterday morning - you can see the "trouble" spots but after using a fine steel wool and finally getting the hang of the right pressure/angle with the strokes it looks much better after this morning's second coat! I think the "easy" 4-day project Giani advertises is easily going to turn into a week or more :(
Looking good so far! I'm planning to buy one of the kits to do my bathrooms--not sure when I'll actually get around to it but I'd really like a new look. I've got ugly old cultured marble, and in a couple of the bathrooms it's starting to look pretty worn and could definitely use a facelift. Luckily the vanities in 2 of the 3 bathrooms are pretty small so hopefully it won't be too major of a project!
Quoting:hopefully it won't be too major of a project!
LOL, I really wish I had a smaller project to experiment with first! The island countertop is probably going to seem like a piece of cake once I get into the tricky areas - around the sink and backsplash . I'm not sure how I'll tackle those counters - do it all at once or divide into halves to do the base coat - it's been a real pain not having access to the island and I can't imagine "losing" the whole countertop for more than a couple of days. At least when I get ready to do the rest of the counters I won't have to worry about the cat jumping up there. My bad, we feed the cat on the far corner of the island to keep it away from the dogs :(
I picked up my primer yesterday to paint the kitchen walls and ceiling. I'm thinking now I'd probably be smarter getting the walls under the cabinets painted before I do those counters? I could tape off the top of the newly painted counters when I'm ready to paint the walls but I'm thinking it would be easier for touch ups on the walls if any bleeding occurred instead of trying to touch up the counters, what do you think? Arrrghh! And to think this all started because ALL I originally wanted was a new floor - now it's turning into a MAJOR project! The new look for the kitchen has inspired me to redo the front entry and hall as well!! I've got a couple of months to get it all done but I'm not an experienced painter and I might have bitten off more than I can chew! LOL
rcn, it's already looking good! I have to agree, the faded green was not holding a candle stylewise to the new tile. I have a great Roz Chast cartoon from New Yorker about the woman who noticed her butter dish was chipped and it set her off on a whole whirlwind of noticing imperfect/ aged/ dated things around the house...Once you start...
Hey Sally, thanks! Now you know why I'm MIA on the Mid Atlantic forum - I've been way too busy researching all my projects :) I'll have more to report soon. First two coats are on and I had to take a break, my back is killing me - I'm way too fussy!
Just a quick update - fussy, fussy, fussy :( I must have gone over the countertop at least five times, add a little more pearl, then a little more bronze, then black to tone it down and still wasn't satisfied. DH said it looked fine and just slap the epoxy on it and be done with it but it just bugged me :( So decided to sleep on it and come back with a fresh attitude in the morning and the little light bulb in my head went off! LOL Idea was to mix some of the black and bronze paint and water it down and apply a coat over the whole counter and it worked!!! It was just enough to "mute" the effect and I'm finally satisfied :) I SO wanted to take a picture as I was doing this process to show you the difference but it was drying so quickly I didn't dare stop and pick up the camera! According to the instructions the epoxy coats need to be timed properly and the timing didn't work with my sleep patterns for yesterday, so TODAY is the day - first coat goes on this morning and then 8 hrs later the second coat. I also got a section of the other counters prepped and painted with the base coat yesterday. As soon as I get the epoxy applied, I'll hopefully be able to get the rest of the counter painted this morning, apply the colors later this afternoon and be ready for epoxy tomorrow - wish me luck!
I've watched the progress and discussion on your project stacysmom. Pretty cool and pretty ambitious. I'm wondering about something, however. I had my bathroom counters redone last summer. I used a product called Tru Stone. Its a granite "look-a-like". Its amazing how good it looks and for a small fraction of the price of real granite. Sturdy and heavy, too. I asked the supplier if it could be installed in a kitchen and he said "no" because its not proven that it cannot leach toxin into food should they come in contact with each other. Its not "approved" to be in a food prep area. Is the technique and/or process you're using safe in this regard? Or is it even an issue?
The products on the Giani website that people have linked to are safe for incidental food contact http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/giani/FAQ.html (food safety info is about halfway down the page) From looking at Tru-Stone's website, it sounds like their material is cultured marble and it doesn't hold up as well as solid surface materials like Corian so I don't know that I'd use it for a kitchen counter even if it was approved for food contact.
It's all going to depend on what people are using as their topcoat/sealer since that's what will come in contact with food. As I mentioned in my last post the kits that people are buying from the Giani website are fine, and I think anyone who's using regular old polyurethane for the topcoat is fine as well. I'm not sure what else people might be using besides those two things.
Aguane, I've done a ton of research on this because I ran into problems with the sealer that came with my Giani kit :( There were at least four different products I found that people have used, everything from epoxies to varethane/urethane and even floor finishing products and it appears from their reports that all are "food safe".
GayLynn, where are you??? I keep going back and looking at your instructions and photos, again and again! The sealer that came with my kit was a disaster :( The stuff dried so fast that I couldn't roll back over it without creating "lines". I've made two trips to Lowes in the past two days. First to get fine sandpaper but even after sanding between coats it still looked like crap! Second trip to get more sandpaper and because I wasn't going to have enough sealer to finish the project anyway, bought MinWax Polycrylic which is going on much better, doesn't dry as fast. I even bought new fresh foam rollers just in case the "used" rollers were causing the problem. I'm having a little better luck but even being extremely careful applying the Polycrylic I'm still seeing minor streaking :( Any suggestions? I'd really like to have my kitchen back! LOL