Hyblaean's Journal: Snap Pea, Edible-podded Pea Sugar Lace II Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon park seed- 1 pkt- most bit the dust, wouldn't grow again

• Member: Hyblaean
• Journal: Garden through Nov 2007
• Category: Veggie Bed: veggies done for the year
• Status: 2007 Plantings

Entries and Updates

Jan 13, 2007   [HYPERLINK@www.umext.maine.edu] Vegetables for Health the Pyramid Way University of Maine Cooperative Extension Bulletin #4256 Peas Most home gardeners in Maine try to have peas to harvest by the Fourth of July. Today, Mainers don’t have to wait for that deadline. You can add peas to the menu earlier when you buy them at local farmers’ markets and vegetable stands. Common types that you will find in the market are shell, snow and sugar-snap. Snow and sugar-snap peas are eaten with the shell. Nutrition Information All peas are a good source of vitamin A, vitamin C, thiamin, folate, iron and phosphorus. Green peas are second only to lima beans as a fresh vegetable source of protein. Only about five percent of all green peas grown come to the market fresh. Frozen peas retain their color, flavor and nutrients better than canned and are lower in sodium. Snow peas are lower in protein since their seeds are very small, however they provide twice the calcium and slightly more iron than green-shelled peas. Selection At the market, choose peas that have been stored at a cool temperature, with pods that are firm. Avoid overlarge pods. Large peas will be have a starchy taste. Choose snow peas that have pods that are shiny and flat without a twisted appearance. Sugar snaps should be bright green and firm to be the sweetest. Plan on buying about a pound of peas for every cup of peas you want. Since snow and sugar snaps are eaten in the shell, buy 1/4 pound for each serving. Storage For the sweetest flavor, serve peas as soon after picking or buying as possible. As peas age, the sugar content turns to starch, making the peas less sweet. Store all peas in the shell in the crisper section of your refrigerator in a perforated plastic bag. Use within two days. Preparation Shell the peas just before cooking or serving. To prepare shell peas, break off the stem end and strip the string along the edge. Pop the pod open and, with your thumb, scrape the peas out. Wash and cook. For snow peas and sugar-snaps, rinse well before use. Prepare snow peas by snipping off both end with a knife or kitchen shears. Strings will not be noticeable. Sugar-snap peas are prepared by snipping the ends and removing the strings from both sides of the pod. Eat raw or cooked. Boiling or Steaming: All peas, green, sugar snap and snow, can be cooked by using a small amount of water. The less liquid that is used, the smaller amount of vitamin C is lost. Cooking time for shell peas is five to 10 minutes. Peas can be steamed over boiling water to retain nutrients, as well. For snow and sugar peas, cook for one to two minutes. Snow or sugar pea pods can be cooked in a steamer over boiling water for two to three minutes. Stir-frying: Use pod peas in stir-fry dishes. Use a small amount of either oil or broth and cook quickly. Cook only one to two minutes to retain the color and crispness when stir-frying whole or cut in slices. Peas and Bulgur Salad Serves 8. 3/4 cup bulgur (cracked wheat) 2 cups fresh peas 1/2 cup scallions, chopped 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped Salt and pepper to taste 1 tablespoon olive oil Boiling water Pour boiling water over the bulgur to cover it by at least 1 inch. Let stand for 30 minutes or until tender and double in volume. Drain thoroughly, pressing out excess water. Cook peas by boiling for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain. In a salad bowl, combine bulgur, peas, scallions, lemon juice and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with oil and toss to mix. Serve cold or at room temperature. Nutritional content per serving: 78 calories 3 g protein 2 g total fat 1.3 g monounsaturated fat 13 g carbohydrate 0 cholesterol 115 RE vitamin A 49 micrograms folate 26 mg vitamin C 1.4 mg iron Stir-Fried Vegetables Serves 8. 1/4 pound green beans, sliced 1 small zucchini, sliced 2 carrots, sliced 1/4 small cauliflower, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 stalk broccoli, cut into 1-inch pieces 1/4 pound snow peas 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons ginger root, finely chopped 2 tablespoons soy sauce Salt and pepper to taste In a large pot, blanch beans, carrots, cauliflower and broccoli until just tender, but still brightly colored. Drain and cool immediately under cold running water. Drain thoroughly. Before serving, heat a small amount of the oil in a heavy skillet or wok over medium heat. Add onion and 1/2 teaspoon garlic; stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes. Add zucchini, some ginger and more garlic; stir-fry for 3 more minutes. If necessary, add more oil. When pan is too full, transfer some of the cooked vegetables to a baking pan and put in a warm oven at 250 degrees F. Add as many of the blanched vegetables as you can stir-fry at one time, plus more ginger, garlic and oil. Continue the cooking process until all the vegetables are cooked. End with snow peas, cooking until just tender-crisp. Combine all vegetables; toss with soy sauce and salt and pepper to taste.

Mar 11, 2007   [HYPERLINK@www.urbanext.uiuc.edu] Pea is a frost-hardy, cool-season vegetable that can be grown throughout most of the United States, wherever a cool season of sufficient duration exists. For gardening purposes, peas may be classified as garden peas (English peas), snap peas and snow peas (sugar peas). Garden pea varieties have smooth or wrinkled seeds. The smooth-seeded varieties tend to have more starch than the wrinkled-seeded varieties. The wrinkled-seeded varieties are generally sweeter and usually preferred for home use. The smooth-seeded types are used more often to produce ripe seeds that are used like dry beans and to make split-pea soup. Snap peas have been developed from garden peas to have low-fiber pods that can be snapped and eaten along with the immature peas inside. Snow peas are meant to be harvested as flat, tender pods before the peas inside develop at all. The Southern pea (cowpea) is an entirely different warm-season vegetable that is planted and grown in the same manner as beans. The following varieties (listed in order of maturity) have wrinkled seeds and are resistant to fusarium wilt unless otherwise indicated. Early Daybreak (54 days to harvest; 20 to 24 inches tall, good for freezing) Spring (57 days; 22 inches tall; dark green freezer peas) Main Season Sparkle (60 days to harvest; 18 inches tall; good for freezing) Little Marvel (63 days; 18 inches tall; holds on the vine well) Green Arrow (68 days; 28 inches tall; pods in pairs; resistant to fusarium and powdery mildew) Wando (70 days; 24-30 inches; withstands some heat; best variety for late spring planting) Sugar Snowbird (58 days; 18 inches tall; double or triple pods in clusters) Dwarf Gray Sugar (65 days; 24 to 30 inches) Snowflake (72 days; 22 inches to harvest; high yield) Peas thrive in cool, moist weather and produce best in cool, moderate climates. Early plantings normally produce larger yields than later plantings. Peas may be planted whenever the soil temperature is at least 45°F, and the soil is dry enough to till without its sticking to garden tools. Plantings of heat-tolerant varieties can be made in midsummer to late summer, to mature during cool fall days. Allow more days to the first killing frost than the listed number of days to maturity because cool fall days do not speed development of the crop as do the long, bright days of late spring. Plant peas 1 to 1-1/2 inches deep and one inch apart in single or double rows. Allow 18 to 24 inches between single or pairs of rows. Allow 8 to 10 inches between double rows in pairs. The germinating seeds and small seedlings are easily injured by direct contact with fertilizer or improper cultivation. Cultivate and hoe shallowly during the early stages of growth. Most dwarf and intermediate varieties are self-supporting. The taller varieties (Green Arrow and Bolero) are most productive and more easily picked when trained to poles or to a fence for support; but they are no longer popular. Peas can be mulched to cool the soil, reduce moisture loss and keep down soil rots. Some of the snap and sugar peas are vining types with heights of 6 feet or more that require fencing or other supports. Garden Peas When the pea pods are swollen (appear round) they are ready to be picked. Pick a few pods every day or two near harvest time to determine when the peas are at the proper stage for eating. Peas are of the best quality when they are fully expanded but immature, before they become hard and starchy. Peas should be picked immediately before cooking because their quality, especially sweetness (like that of sweet corn), deteriorates rapidly. The pods on the lower portion of the plant mature earliest. The last harvest (usually the third) is made about one week after the first. Pulling the entire plant for the last harvest makes picking easier. Sugar Snap Peas Snap peas should be harvested every 1 or 3 days, similarly to snow peas to get peak quality. Sugar snaps are at their best when the pods first start to fatten but before the seeds grow very large. At this point, the pods snap like green beans and the whole pod can be eaten. Some varieties have strings along the seams of the pod that must be removed before cooking. Sugar snaps left on the vine too long begin to develop tough fiber in the pod walls. These must then be shelled and used as other garden peas, with the fibrous pods discarded. Vining types of both sugar snap and snow peas continue to grow taller and produce peas as long as the plant stays in good health and the weather stays cool. Snow Peas These varieties are generally harvested before the individual peas have grown to the size of BBS, when the pods have reached their full length but are still quite flat. This stage is usually reached 5 to 7 days after flowering. Snow peas must be picked regularly (at least every other day) to assure sweet, fiber-free pods. Pods can be stir-fried, steamed or mixed with oriental vegetables or meat dishes. As soon as overgrown pods missed in earlier pickings are discovered, remove them from the plants to keep the plants blooming and producing longer. Enlarging peas inside these pods may be shelled and used as garden peas. Fat snow pea pods (minus the pea enlarging inside) should be discarded. Fibers that develop along the edges of larger pods, along with the stem and blossom ends, are removed during preparation. Pea pods lose their crispness if overcooked. The pods have a high sugar content and brown or burn quickly. Do not stir-fry over heat that is too intense. Pea pods can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for two weeks. Unlike fresh green peas, pea pods deteriorate only slightly in quality when stored. The first signs of fusarium wilt and root-rot disease are the yellowing and wilting of the lower leaves and stunting of the plants. Infection of older plants usually results in the plants producing only a few poorly filled pods. These diseases are not as prevalent on well-drained soils. Double-dug raised beds amended with abundant organic matter can greatly improve soil aeration and drainage. Fusarium wilt can be avoided by growing wilt-resistant varieties. Q. Should I inoculate my peas with nitrogen-fixing bacteria before planting? A. When peas are planted on new land, you may increase the yield by inoculating peas with a commercial formulation of nitrogen-fixing bacteria. In an established garden, however, inoculation is less necessary. If you are in doubt, inoculation is a relatively inexpensive process that is easy to do and ensures better plant-nutrient status. There are two common varieties of peas, green garden peas that need shelling and edible-pod peas that are eaten whole. Snow peas, sugar snap peas Chinese pea pods and many others fall into this category. They are low fiber pods with small wrinkled peas inside. The entire pod is eaten, cooked or raw. Green garden peas are legumes just like dried peas, except they are eaten at the immature stage. They are a cool weather, early spring crop. Harvest edible-pod peas when they are flat. Use both hands. Holding the plant stem in one hand use the other hand to pull off the pod. Using one hand, you can easily pull up the entire plant. The smaller pods are sweeter and more tender. Use them for eating raw and cook the larger ones. The shelled peas should be plump but not large. Check one until you become familiar with the appearance. The plumpest peas should be gathered before the pod starts to wrinkle on the stem. Old peas taste starchy and mealy. Fresh peas keep for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator. The sugar in them quickly begins to turn to starch even while under refrigeration. As much as 40 percent of the sugar is converted in a few hours. Store unwashed peas in perforated plastic bags for a few days. The sooner they are eaten the better. Green garden peas are a valuable source of protein, iron and insoluble fiber. Insoluble fiber helps to reduce serum cholesterol thus reducing the risk of heart disease and stroke. Sugar snap peas and the like, contain much less protein, but they are an excellent source of iron and vitamin C that work to keep your immune system functioning properly. Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked garden peas) Calories 67 Dietary Fiber 2.4 grams Protein 4.3 grams Carbohydrates 12.5 grams Vitamin A 478 IU Vitamin C 11.4 mg Folic acid 50.7 micrograms Iron 1.2 mg Potassium 217 mg Magnesium 31 mg Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked snow peas) Calories 34 Dietary Fiber 1.4 grams Protein 2.6 grams Carbohydrates 5.6 grams Vitamin C 38.3 mg Iron 1.6 mg Potassium 192 mg Magnesium 21 mg Wash garden peas just before shelling. To shell, pinch off the ends and pull the string down on the inside of the pod and pop the peas out. Wash edible pod peas and trim both ends. Remove the string from both sides of the pod. Cook briefly or serve raw. Steam, sauté or stir-fry quickly to retain the bright green color and vitamin C content. Vitamin C is easily destroyed by over cooking. Peas freeze beautifully if they are fresh. Fresh frozen peas do not need to be cooked upon thawing. Just add to soups, stews or heat briefly before serving. To Prepare Garden Peas or Sugar Peas for Freezing Since freezing does not improve the quality of any vegetable, it is important to start with fresh green pods. Avoid old tough pods as they will only get tougher during freezing. In a blanching pot or large pot with tight fitting lid, bring about 5 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, wash, trim and string, pea pods. Blanch no more than one pound of peas at a time. Drop peas into boiling water and immediately cover with a tight fitting lid. Start timing the blanching immediately and blanch shelled peas for two minutes and pods for five minutes. Prepare an ice water bath in a large 5 to 6 quart container or use the sink. Remove the peas from the blanching water with a slotted spoon or blanching basket. Emerge the peas in the ice water bath for 5 min. or until completely cool. If ice is unavailable, use several changes of cold tap water to cool the vegetables. Remove from water and drain. Label and date, quart size, zip-closure freezer bags. Pack peas into prepared freezer bags, squeeze out as much air as possible by folding the top portion of the bag over. Gently push air out and seal. Freeze for up to one year at 32°F or below. Note: Blanching water and ice water bath may be used over and over again. Return blanching water to a boil after each batch of vegetables is blanched and replenish water if necessary. The flavor of fresh garden peas is complimented by spearmint, marjoram, rosemary, and thyme. They hold up well in stir-fry preparations. Boost the nutritional value of meals by adding them to pasta, soups, stews and rice dishes or raw in a fresh garden salad. Sugar Snap Peas with Toasted Sesame Seeds 1 tablespoon peanut oil 3 baby portabella mushrooms, sliced (1/2 cup) 2 cups fresh sugar snap peas, fresh snow peas orthawed frozen snow peas cut in half 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1 to 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seed Wash and string peas, slice mushrooms measure soy and sesame seeds and set aside. Heat oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and stir-fry until lightly browned. Add peas and stir-fry until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Stir in soy sauce. Cover and cook 1 minute longer. Sprinkle with sesame seed and serve. Makes 4 servings. French Peas 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 cup finely chopped romaine lettuce 1-1/2 pounds shelled fresh peas or frozen tiny peas, thawed 1/4 cup minced shallots or white part of green onion 1 large whole sprig parsley 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon white pepper Heat oil in a 3 quart saucepan. Place lettuce on top of oil. Add peas, shallots, parsley, sugar, salt and pepper. Simmer covered, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes, or until peas are just tender. Remove parsley sprig before serving. Makes 6 servings.

Mar 12, 2007   [HYPERLINK@zzyx.ucsc.edu] For the Gardener Peas for the Home Garden by Orin Martin, manager of the Alan Chadwick Garden, University of California, Santa Cruz G arden or English peas (Pisum sativum) are hardy, cool season, vining annuals grown for their fresh immature green seeds and pods. Peas are classified in the Fabaceae (formerly Leguminosae) family, which consists of approximately seven hundred genera and seventeen thousand species, with cosmopolitan distribution throughout the temperate, subtropical, and tropical zones of the world. Many species in this family are used as food, forage, timber, and dye plants. Peas are thought to have originated on the eastern rim of the Mediterranean into the mideast. Remains of 7,000-year-old carbonized seeds have been found in Switzerland. By the height of the Greek and Roman civilizations, peas (and legumes in general) were well established garden, field, and green manure crops. Although peas are not heavy yielders (in terms of pounds per area), they are well worth the effort in small gardens. A fresh garden pea’s taste is so far superior to its store-bought equivalent that it is in fact a different vegetable—sugar vs. starch, fresh and lively vs. dull and soggy. Along with spinach, peas usually herald the first working of the soil and planting in spring. If all goes well, sweetness and succulence await you 50 to 70 days after planting seeds. Because they need to be trellised, peas afford excellent opportunities for intercropping. Once established, peas don’t require much work. They are able to grab onto the trellis and spread themselves out for greater exposed photosynthetic area and better air circulation to reduce the incidence of mildew. They are not very sensitive to weed pressure. In fact, weeding established pea patches can do more harm than good, as peas have numerous surface roots that are sensitive to disturbance. Growing hints Cultivation. All peas are emphatically cool season crops. Optimally, they are direct sown when the soil temperature averages over 50° F. Sixty to eighty days of temperatures below 80° F are requisite for good production. Soil temperatures of 55°–75° F will yield germinating seedlings in 7–10 days. Overly wet and cold (below 50° F) or wet and warm (over 75° F) soil increases the percentage of pre-emergent rot. In fact, because pea seeds are large and can imbibe and hold so much water, allowing the soil to dry down significantly between waterings will reduce rot and ensure good germination. Soils. Good drainage is essential for vigorous growth. Early cropping favors sandy soils as they drain and warm more quickly than clays. Peas, as do most legumes, prefer a slightly acid (6.8) to slightly alkaline (7.2) soil pH. This higher pH range also provides for the high calcium needs of peas. Peas are intolerant of acid soils. Planting. Peas should be direct seeded or gently transplanted from speedling/plug trays. Seeds can either be drilled in rows or broadcast sown. Drills can be single or double rows 2–4 inches from the trellis to facilitate the tendrils (modified leaves) finding the fence. Seeds should be sown heavily (12–15 per foot), as pea seeds generally have a moderate germination percentage (60%–80%) even under ideal conditions. Thin to 8–12 seeds per foot if necessary. The general adage about covering seed two to three times its narrowest diameter applies here; seeds should be planted 1–1 1/2 inches deep, then gently tamped or watered in. Pea seeds can also be thickly broadcast at 2–3 seeds per square inch, and raked in or covered with soil. Twiggy brush (see below) or one to two layers of horizontal netting creates the trellis for support. This broadcast method nets a higher yield per area but can increase incidence of powdery mildew due to restricted air circulation. Note that pea seed viability is relatively short (3–4 years) under ideal circumstances. In most home garden situations seed will only last 1–3 years. When ordering pea seeds, think in 1/2 and 1 pound increments (1,500–2,000 seeds per pound). Varietal selection is important as to plant height and time to maturation, but most importantly, pay attention to disease resistance. Basically, if a varietal description doesn’t tout or mention disease resistance, be a smart shopper and realize it probably has none. The more recent the varietal introduction, the more disease resistant it is. Unfortunately, the converse is true as regards heirloom varieties. (See below for varietal descriptions.) Nutrients. Because legumes are capable of fixing nitrogen via association with soil bacteria, garden peas are mistakenly thought to need little or no supplemental nitrogen. The truth is that they fix very little nitrogen unless inoculated with the appropriate species of bacterium (see Inoculation, below). They will also use most of the nitrogen they fix and thus don’t particularly enrich the soil for the following crop. Phosphorous is an important nutrient for early root development and to assist with flowering, fruiting and sugar development. Fortunately legumes are efficient at gathering and concentrating phosphorous. Fertilizing the peas prior to planting is optional on enriched or improved soils. A compost of chicken manure, mixed greens, and straw or leaves will boost nitrogen and phosphorous levels. Composts of brassicas and legumes will concentrate phosphorous and calcium. Inoculation. Pea plant vigor and thus production is markedly increased when the seed is inoculated with the appropriate species of Rhizobium bacteria. These bacteria can be purchased in a powdered carrying agent (usually talc) from most seed catalogues and nurseries. To inoculate, simply dampen the seed, add powdered inoculate and mix until the seeds have a blackened, peppered look. Plant as soon as possible as the water activates the bacterial population and desiccation is harmful. Watering. Peas require 1–2 inches of water per week. They are intolerant of water stress (i.e., too little water); stress will reduce plant size, decrease yield quality—resulting in tough, starchy peas—and severely shorten the length of cropping. Flowering and early fruit set are key times to ensure an even flow of water. While peas have a tap root that can penetrate up to 3 feet, most of the effective feeding roots range from just under the surface to 12–15 inches deep. Once peas are established, and especially as they begin fruiting, they are subject to a fungal disease called powdery mildew. Overhead watering in conjunction with high humidity will bring on the disease. To help avoid the problem, either water overhead in the morning prior to a sunny stretch of weather so that the plants will dry out, or use drip tape or soaker hose around the base of the plants. Trellis or Fencing. All but the shortest varieties of peas need some sort of support. Although many varieties are advertised as self-supporting (especially the “leafless” types), this is not true. Fencing allows closer plant spacing (1–2 inches between plants to 2 plants per inch), because the plants can spread out on the trellis or fence. Fencing also increases sunlight interception, minimizes disease, and facilitates easier picking. One age-old tradition for trellising peas is what the British refer to as “twiggy brush.” The branched prunings of last year’s growth from fruit trees inserted into the soil make an excellent, cheap, and somewhat artistic fence. The brush is usually good for two to three years. One- and two-inch chicken wire will also suffice. Unlike beans, peas aren’t a heavy plant or fruit, thus they don’t need as strong a fence. In fact, garden twine run vertically or woven between horizontal 2x4s makes a biodegradable/compostable trellis. String on a wooden A-frame also works. The important thing is to install the trellis prior to planting and to rotate it around the garden so as not to be tempted to repeat the crop in the same bed before two to three years have passed. Crop Establishment. Unless peas are ridiculously oversown, thinning is unnecessary. Spacing plants farther than 3–4 inches apart makes no sense, nor increases yield per foot. One weeding at the 3-inch stage usually keeps the peas ahead of the weeds. Because peas are so succulent, the less the crop is handled the less the physical damage. Even micro-breaks in the foliage can lead to an “invasion” of powdery mildew. Mulch. Mulching helps protect the surface roots from heat and desiccation, thus prolonging cropping as summer approaches. Harvesting. Peas must be picked every 2–4 days to ensure quality and continued production. This is usually not a problem on a garden scale. To avoid harming the plants as you pick, hold the stem in one hand and pinch the pod off the vine just behind the calyx with the other hand. Bush vs. Climbers Peas, as well as beans and tomatoes, come in two forms: bush (determinate) and climbers (indeterminate). As with beans, originally all peas were rampant climbers. Dwarf or bush varieties are a result of breeding efforts that have selected for quicker maturation and easier care and labor (fencing and picking). Each type has its pros and cons – Bush types • Mature quickly, 50–60 days (40 days for some early varieties) • Concentrated cropping period, 1–3 weeks • Less effort and materials for fencing or trellising • Increasingly greater varietal possibilities • Require bending and stooping to harvest, especially on dwarf early varieties • Lower overall yield • Higher pod to vine ratio Climbers • Slower maturing, 60–75 days • Extended cropping period, 3–5 weeks • Require extensive trellising • Almost vanishing varietal possibilities • Picker can stand tall and straight to harvest • Significantly higher overall yield • Lower pod to vine ratio Note: All peas need to be kept picked to prolong production. As few as 2–3 pods left to mature will shut down further pod production, as the plant shunts a lion’s share of its energy into ripening seed. The Three Types of Peas Shelling Peas (Pisum sativum) Shelling peas and petit pois come in single, double and multiple podded varieties. Multiple-podded varieties “throw” two or more pods at each node and are thus more productive. Usually, the more modern the variety, the greater the productivity. Shelling peas must be picked after the 8–10 individual peas have sized up but before their sugar has turned to starch (every 2–4 days). A properly mature, but not overripe, pea pod should be mid-dark green, shiny, and fully round and plump. And of course, they must be shelled or shucked because of the starchy nature of the pods, which requires lots of labor. If well grown and picked with proper timing, they are moist and sweet with a low starch content and can be, and often are, eaten while picking in the garden. If they do make it into the house, shelled peas can be added raw to salads, lightly steamed (2–3 minutes), or added with leafy greens at the very end of a stir fry dish. As with corn, the sugars in peas start to convert to starch within minutes of picking. Thus quick usage or cooling and chilling to lower the core temperature is essential. This is one instance where living hand to mouth amounts to high living. Shelling pea plants can be divided into 3 heights: • short (and quickest maturing) varieties under 2 feettall; mature in 40–50 days • intermediate varieties 2–4 feet tall; mature in 50–65 days • climbing types (often called telephone pole) 5–8 feet tall; mature in 60–75 days Unlike garden beans, where the bush varieties are a disappointing step down in eating quality from their climbing counterparts, bush peas feature as good as and in some cases better taste than climbers. Petit pois are shelling peas of diminutive stature. The plants are smaller—18 inches to 2 1/2 feet. The leaves, pods and peas inside are smaller. However, the succulence, intensity of sweetness, and productivity per plant dwarf standard shelling peas. Snow Peas (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon) Snow peas or Chinese snow peas differ from shelling peas in that the pod is harvested early when it is still flat and before it starts to twist. With the notable exception of the variety Oregon Giant, the peas (actually ovules inside the ovary) are starchy and unpalatable. Although initially disappointed when I grew snow peas, I’ve come to regard them as my favorite type of pea. With such an exotic name as snow pea I expected sweetness and snowmelt succulence. Alas, snow peas are all about crop texture and moderate juiciness. Still, they are “de rigeur” in Asian stir fry dishes. One dilemma regarding snow peas is that varieties tend to be either productive or tasty but not both. (See varietal descriptions for solutions.) Sugar Snap Peas (Pisum sativum var. saccharatum) The edible pod or “eat the whole thing” pea is both the most significant vegetable development in our gardening lifetimes (pre genetic engineering) and a somewhat overrated item. Originally developed by Dr. Calvin Lamborn of the Gallatin Seed Co. in Idaho, it was a breeding mistake. He was attempting to solve the production problem of twisting snow peas by crossing a heavy-podded shelling pea with a snow pea and voilà—the sugar snap pea. Sugar snaps feature thick, round pod walls that tightly enclose the peas. The walls themselves are sweet and juicy. The peas are versatile in that they can be used young as an ersatz snow pea, at the proper stage (best flavor results when pods are plump, round and have an audible snap) as a sugar snap, or even as a shelling pea when overmature. The allure of the sugar snap is that it produces more nutrition and taste per plant or area than any other type of pea. It also allows you to eat a shell-type pea with no shelling and is far sweeter than any other type of pea. So, what are the drawbacks? • The original sugar snap variety is a 6–10 foot-tall plant with poor vine/fruit ratio. Subsequent breeding has developed dwarf varieties that are only moderately productive. • The original sugar snap and most of its dwarf offspring have little or no resistance to powdery mildew, and the dwarf types have only average taste and texture. • The pods have a pronounced “string” that needs to be removed before eating or cooking. While they are amazing, my feeling about sugar snaps is similar to my thoughts on wind surfing—if I wanted to surf I’d surf, if I wanted to sail I’d sail. Varietal Descriptions Shelling Pea Varieties Bush Varieties (in order of days to maturation) These need less fencing, crop early, and have a short, concentrated harvest period– Dakota (52 days) About the earliest-producing pea. Good productivity on 20”–24” vines bearing 4”-long pods with 6–7 peas per pod. A good bet where cool spring weather turns quickly to summer heat. Disease resistant. Spring (52 days) Dark-podded, early, smallish, 3”-long pods, with 6–7 peas per pod. Good for fresh eating and freezing. Maestro (55 days) Vigorous 24”–30” vines, high yield, long cropping period. Peas fill out or enlarge late in long, double pods. Knight (56 days) 2’-high plants produce single and double 3”–4”-long pods with 7–8 flavorful peas per pod. Old-fashioned, heavy pea flavor; peas are the largest for an early variety. Extremely disease resistant, especially to powdery mildew. New Century (58 days) A significant new variety. 30”–36”-tall, vigorous vines bear extra-large 6”–7”-long pods with 8–9 peas per pod. Peas are 1/4” wide. Very concentrated harvest period; successive plantings recommended. Lincoln (60 days) Classic heirloom (1908) with 30” vines, limited disease resistance. Easy to shell, good heat tolerance, and a great old-timey flavor. Green Arrow (65 days) Classic long-podded (5”–6”) variety with 8–10 big peas per pod on 24”–30” vines. Good flavor, heavy yields. Wando (65 days) Older variety with little or no disease resistance, but best heat tolerance. Vines grow to 36”, bearing 3 1/2”-long pods. Novella II (65 days) Best of the leafless varieties. Bred to have more tendrils for effective self support and less foliage. Good for cool, moist areas, and allows closer plant spacing because of less foliage. 24”–30” vines bear small 3”-long pods with 6–7 peas/pod. Very disease resistant. Pods held above foliage for easy picking. Climbing Varieties Maxigolt (60 days) Vigorous bush or moderate climber. Heat tolerant, 4 1/2’–5’-tall vines. A versatile spring or fall performer. Unarguably the biggest (6” long), plumpest, sweetest, heaviest-cropping pea I’ve ever grown. Alderman’s Telephone Pole (75 days) Produces thick, huge, 6”–8”-long pods on 6’–8’-tall vines that need a strong trellis. Pods are easy to pick and shell. Long harvest period. Old heirloom variety with high flavor when cooked. Utrillo (75–80 days) 5’-7’ tall, best sown late summer for late fall harvest. Big peas, 5”-6”-long pods. Top yields, very sweet peas. Petit Pois Precoville (60 days) Small vine (15”–20”), small, 2”-long pods. Good flavor when eaten raw, good texture. Waverex (70 days) Heavy yields of 3”-long pods with 6–7 peas/pod on 15”–20” vines. Intensely sweet. Snow Pea Varieties Bush Varieties Oregon Giant (60 days) A recent introduction from Dr. James Baggett of Oregon State University combines extreme disease resistance with the biggest (5”–7” x 1”), heaviest pods and sweetest flavor of any snow pea. This variety can even be picked late when pods are starting to twist and “berries” are pronounced in the pods. In fact full flavor is achieved at this stage. Long harvest period. Vigorous 3 1/2’–4 1/2’ vines. The best snow pea ever (for now)! Oregon Sugar Pod II (62 days) Another Dr. J. Baggett introduction. Similar to Oregon Giant, but just a notch below in size, flavor, productivity, etc. Excellent choice. Dwarf Grey Sugar (60 days) Introduced in 1892. 30”–36” vines. Red blossoms, red blush to foliage. Small pod (2” long), light flavor, stringless, good at immature stage. Ho Lan Dow (60 days) First snow pea I ever grew (25 years ago) and still reliable. Moderate 24”–36” vine, high productivity, small sweet pods (2 1/2”–3” long). Low disease resistance. Norli (60 days) Tall vines (4’–5’) bear small 2 1/2”–3”-long pods. Moderate flavor, good pod presentation makes picking easy. Snow Green (59 days) Good disease resistance. 24” vines. Moderate production and pod size (2 1/2”–3” long). Must be picked early or gets tough. Climbing Varieties Mammoth Melting (75 days) Classic heirloom variety. The 6’–8’- tall vines bear 3 1/2”–4”-long pods. Low disease resistance. Poor vine/pod ratio but superior taste if picked when pods are flat. Carouby de Maussawe (75 days) French heirloom with vigorous 6’–8’ tall vines. Super sweet taste, even raw. Purple flowers. Makes an attractive annual hedge or screen. Sugar Snap Pea Varieties Climbing Varieties (actually there is only one) Sugar Snap (75 days) The original and best tasting of all sugar snaps. On the downside, tall vines are hard to pick, plants are very prone to mildew, and the pods have a serious string. Bush Varieties Sugar Ann (55 days) Earliest sugar snap. Small pods 2”–2 1/2” long. Sweet flavor. Short vines (2’). Super Sugar Mel (60 days) The most vigorous, highest yielding, biggest, heaviest podded, sweetest tasting of the bush sugar snaps. 36”–40” vines. Best picked when pods are fully enlarged. Good heat and disease tolerance. Sugar Lace (60 days) A new introduction. Short (24”) vines bear virtually stringless pods that are plump and sweet. Vines are “leafless” and thus have an abundance of tendrils to aid in self-support and higher density planting. Large pods are 3 1/2–4” long. Sugar Sprint (60 days) Sweet, virtually stringless pods. The 3”-long pods plump up quickly. Compact 2’ vines are disease resistant. Cascadia (60 days) Short (28”–30”) vines bear 3 1/2”-long pods with high yield, sweet taste, string. Disease resistant. Superb eating quality. Mega (75 days) Latest-maturing variety. Good in both hot and cool conditions. Large (mega) 4”-long pods with crisp, juicy, sweet flavor similar to Sugar Daddy. – Orin Martin

Apr 24, 2007   the peas are in the ground- way way way too many of them- hope i can bring myself to cull them, cause i put at least 500 if not more into the soil in ...hm...if i couldn't throw out the seeds, how am i going to be able to throw them out once they're plants?

May 7, 2007   kind of casual showing of these guys only DWS seems to be happy, well, and the radishes counter clockwise from 6: radishes, nothing, DWS, onions, nothing, SL, Paso

May 7, 2007