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Lost Heritage: The Southern Seed Legacy – heirloom crops of the South rediscovered!

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By Glynis Ward (girlgroupgirl)
September 27, 2007

This year my friend Debbie and I participated in one of the “nerdiest” of all gardening pastimes. We went to the Old Timey Seed Swap in Crawford, Georgia. The seed swap is hosted by the Southern Seed Legacy and is held at their Agrarian Connections Farm, out in the country, not far from Athens, Georgia.

Gardening picture Dr. Robert Rhoades, a professor of Anthropology and Dr. Virginia Nazarea, director of the Ethnoecology and Biodiversity Laboratory in the Department of Anthropology at the University of Georgia began the Southern Seed Legacy in 1996. They felt the need to address what they felt was the lack of diversity and cultural awareness of modern Southern gardeners and farmers. The goal was to encourage local seed exchanges – and to create a means in which people could meet to exchange those seeds. They began a small seed bank called PASS (Pass along Southern Seed), to ensure that the seeds being exchanged would never be lost.

Farmers and seed savers that want to participate officially in PASS must commit to a contractual agreement and pay annual “dues”. However, the Old Timey Seed Swap still provides the homeowner or small grower the ability to obtain seed and grow as they please. This in itself was the initial attraction I had in going to the seed swap. Plus I wanted to pass along some of the heirloom flower seeds I save, to the vegetable farmers who would be giving me their seeds. However, during the drive to the swap, my friend Debbie informed me that there was a far more valuable reason that we should be attending – for the stories.

If any of you know a Southerner, you know that there are stories. Botanically obsessed seed saving Southerners are no different – it’s just their stories revolve around their “field”. I soon learned that “field” is a very apt term for these seedsmen, for they most often ‘specialize’ in a particular area of interest. For example, one middle-aged farmer from South Carolina saves only bean seeds. He can tell you the year he started to grow them, and how well they did. And you should see the look on his face when you ask kindly for some of his seeds! Euphoria! Someone WANTS to grow his crop of black seeded lima beans – more beautiful than any other and cultivated since sometime in the 1700’s.

This day we also met Rodger Winn, who gardens in South Carolina and who sold us gorgeous $1.00 tomato plants with the names the likes of Tennessee Britches (who could resist!!), and gave us the fabulous Zelma Zesta bean. Randy explained that his wife Karen’s great uncle JC Metze developed this beautiful and flavorful pole bean, which was eventually marketed by Park Seeds.

Mr. Metze was from Little Mountain, SC and was a dedicated seed saver. He developed the bean in the 40’s and 50’s by careful selection from his crops. In the 60’s he approached Parks with his final selection, which then went to trial in Selma Alabama. Parks bought the rights to market the bean, and it appeared in several catalogs in the early 60’s as the Selma Zester, however, Rodger says “Mr. JC always referred to the name as the Zelma Zesta and that is how he presented it to me in the early 80’s”. Mr. Metze and his wife have now passed on, and his one surviving brother can not remember any details on the bean. Rodger did contact Park Seed, who told him that all their beans from the 60’s into the 70’s had the name Selma as they were grown out for production in the same fields in Alabama. Rodger states, about the name “…we kept the name Zelma Zesta as written on the original seed Mr. JC Metze gave me and most folks around here who have this bean or knew of it just referred to it as Mr. JC’s Greenbean”.
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This year I am growing the Zelma Zesta, and I love it! The beans themselves are pretty, an olive green speckled with purple. However, it is the taste that has won my heart (and tastebuds). The stringless pods are tasty at any stage – even when very large and rather overgrown. You see, the seeds remain fairly small inside the pods for a long period of time, and it is the “meat” of the bean that thickens, given you a real mouthful. Small beans are excellent and delicate eaten raw, and the old thicker beans make a great meat substitute in vegetarian meals. Such a pleasing vegetable, as are many heirlooms, you wonder why they were “lost”?
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Many heirloom seed savers such as Rodger, proudly display their gorgeous beans in vintage canning jars. This seems to add to the aura of history, and mystique of vegetables unknown to us. When you request some seeds, or a trade, they will dip out a portion and package it for you on the spot – very reminiscent of the way seeds were purchased in days of old, the way some Feed stores still sell their seeds today.

Rodger obtained the Tennessee Britches tomato seed in October 2006 at the Appalachian Heirloom Seed Conservancy conference in Berea KY from Gary Millwood. “…It is one big tomato. I had two that weighted in at 3lbs, and I have attached a picture from the tomato tasting I hosted on the 21st of July (2007) – this tomato was a favorite”. I can attest to its flavor. This is a sweet and very meaty tomato with few seeds relative to its size. Rodger explained that Gary received the seeds from Craig LeHoullier in Raliegh, NC. Craig is a tomato enthusiast and introduced the Cherokee Purple, and he obtained the Tennessee Britches seen in an online trade from a man who stated the seed came from a family saved tomato. Craig has passed the seed along to Victory Seeds, and they began selling it for the 2007-growing year.

Seeds are not just about growing, they are not just about food – they are about a heritage of people and the rich history of family. We are very lucky that so many people have begun to realize the value of these foods in our culture and have tried to document their beginnings, have cultivated and saved their seed. So many are now available in a variety of seed catalogues. However, there are still many waiting to be discovered, and an heirloom seed swap is a great way to learn a little history, and to try a little something new.



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  About Glynis Ward  
Glynis Ward Music, color and gardening - the three go hand in hand in my Electric Garden. I enjoy gardening organically for 12 months of the year in the South and am garden speaker and educator, coach and designer. I write about rock'n roll, vintage fashion and of course, gardening.

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» Read more about: Heirloom Plants, Seed Saving, Swapping Plants And Seeds, Vegetable Gardening, Tomatoes, Beans

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Subject: glynis


Posted by roycethompson (from Winston Salem, NC) on May 25, 2009 at 08:21 AM:

veryinteresting article about heritage beans and tomatoes. i def want to go this year if possible. is it still in Ga? My sister lives in atlanta so icould stay for free what is better than that?lol by the wya your very pretty.

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Subject: Rodger is my friend...

Posted by VGMKY (from Louisville, KY) on December 03, 2007 at 02:13 PM:

Glynis. Rodger is a very good friend. I have shared a number of things with him. And, Yes I did share the TN Britches with him. They do grow to as much as 3 lbs. if given the right conditions. Rodger grew the Scaley Bark Watermelon (mid 1800s) this summer and loved it; these are some seed that were shared with me from a DG member.
I would love to be there next spring and visit with Rodger and meet all the folks in attendance.I have heart problems and have been unable to travel too far from home. I also know John, The Butter Bean Man! He has an amazing collection of bean varieties!
I will have to send you a few stories about Heirloom Tomatoes.
What other tomato varieties have you grown?
Gary Millwood
4816 Wooded Oak Circle
Louisville, Kentucky 40245

contact me at ---- gary.millwood@gmail.com

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Subject: I wanna go Glynis!!

Posted by soulgardenlove (from Marietta, GA) on October 03, 2007 at 06:22 PM:

Wow, what fun.. I'd love to go! :)

Will you share the date?

Susan

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Subject: Heirloom seeds have another value...

Posted by kldimond (from Lake Hughes, CA) on October 01, 2007 at 11:47 AM:

Heirloom seeds have another value--they grow plants that produce more seeds that will grow the same plant that will produce...--they haven't been hybridized (or genetically altered) to the point where they won't produce seeds that produce the same plants.

Those of us in the "self-reliance" (some are survivalists, others are just not too happy about "developed countries' morbid--and expensive--reliance on technology) community think in terms of "what would we do if..." (severe climate change, failure of civilization, failure of major technologies like the electrical grid, etc.)

Heirloom seeds, especially for edible plants, are a big part of our sense of being prepared.

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Subject: Hey, I Lived In Crawford!

Posted by barrystock (from Hollywood, FL) on September 27, 2007 at 06:43 PM:

Before I was ever into plants as an obsession, I lived in Crawford, Georgia. My wife and I bought an old house down from the only traffic light in the county, next door to a Victorian manse owned by our friend Donna. She built a lovely greenhouse out of antique windows she collected. Now I live in Hollywood, Florida, and don't think much about that time.

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Subject: Great Article

Posted by OutsidePlaying (from Laceys Spring, AL) on September 27, 2007 at 03:41 PM:

Glynis, I enjoyed your article very much and hope you will continue to write now and then for Dave's.
I've always wondered where the name 'Rattlesnake Beans', a favorite green bean variety of mine, came from. But then again, maybe I don't want to know in this case! Interesting story about the Zelma Zesta.
Elaine

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Subject: Lovely Article!

Posted by GreenAtHeart (from Franklin Grove, IL) on September 27, 2007 at 09:08 AM:

Your article made me wish there were gatherings of storytelling seed swappers up here in the North. I love the "stories" behind each seed. The Zelma Zesta beans sound so good! It's fun to find a new variety AND have it turn out to become a favorite. I'll have to keep my eye out for that one.
I always save bean seeds in canning jars. They impart a feeling of security in the "provisions" department. When the snow is piling up and the wind is whistling, a few cups of dried beans, a pot of water, a little of this and that - and dinner's on. Always leave enough for next season's planting, though.

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Posted by AYankeeCat (from Fairfield County, CT) on September 27, 2007 at 09:42 AM:

Very nice article. I wish I could go to the seed swap!

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Posted by Kelli (from Los Angeles (Canoga , CA) on September 27, 2007 at 04:27 PM:

How interesting it must be to live in an area with a heritage that people have learned to recognize. I've got to find out if there are any southern California heritage plants. There have got to be. People have been farming and gardening here for over 200 years. Surely everything hasn't been lost.

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Posted by Islandshari (from Kwajalein, Marshall Islands) on September 27, 2007 at 04:41 PM:

Glynis, what a wonderful article! Your "story" about their "stories" was just as interesting to me, as their's were to you. You took us to the Old Timey Seed Swap right along with you, and that is the best complement a writer can receive....you made me feel as if I was there. Great job! Sure wish I could taste those beans!

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Subject: Wonderful article Glynis!

Posted by Eufaula (from Eatonton, GA) on September 27, 2007 at 03:47 AM:

I am a seed saver from way back. My Father and Mother always had a garden and I took up the Trait. My Maternal Grandfather always grew a Southern Pea, some call it a type of Cow pea, but we always called it "Grandpa's peas"! It is a beautiful Long Green Pea Pod, That has the "Sweetest" tiniest little Pea(bean) youve ever seen! When Cooked the "Pot Liquour"( Old southern term for Pea juice, is so dark its almost brown.
The pea is picked in any stage to cook. If you want snaps you pick it very early and "Snap" the pea pod into 1 inch pieces along with mature peas. At any stage these are the best tasting peas around! They have been on my familys table since the 1800's that we know of, and could possibly have been there a lot longer.
The proper Southern way of eating these Peas, is to load your plate with fresh garden Corn ,tomatoes,onions and the Peas of course , and mix'em all up and enjoy! LOL!
Your wonderful article just brought back the blessed memories of my long ago Childhood sitting at Grandma and Grandpa's table, Enjoying stories of the garden and Grandpa's Peas. thank you!

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Posted by LouC (from Desoto, TX) on September 27, 2007 at 10:55 AM:

Wonderful. Our supper last night was exactly as descibed above other than we added sweet cornbread. Grandson called them beans....we quickly corrected him....these are another whole level from beans.

Thank you for the article. Enjoyed it very much.

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