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No-till or no-dig gardening is a method of preserving the natural integrity of the soil. It preserves soil structure, promotes biological activity, and preserves soil fertility. All of this is compromised by cultivation. Here I will explore the 'Why' and 'How To' of No-Dig gardening.
"If we throw mother nature out the window, she comes back in the door with a pitchfork." Masanobu Fukuoka [1]
What is No-Dig Gardening?
Origins. The origin of no-dig gardening is sometimes attributed to Australian writer and conservationist, Esther Deans [2] who outlined a method of piling mulch over newspaper to prepare garden beds for planting. The mulch suppresses weeds, conditions the soil, and invites natural soil making processes. Others attribute the invention of no-dig gardening to Japanese Microbiologist, Masanobu Fukuoka who advocated a method of natural soil building in this book, The One-Straw Revolution [1]. The Permaculture movement, a world-wide organization promoting natural gardening or no-dig techniques [3] embraces both Esther Deans and Masanobu Fukuoka's work.
In the United States origins are more apt to be attributed to Ruth Stout [4] [5] [6] who advocated fighting weeds by piling on a mulch of straw, pine straw, leaves, and compost. The thicker the mulch, the greater was the deterrent to weeds. Updated versions are Patricia Lanza's Lasagna Gardening [7] and Lee Reich's Weedless Gardening. [8] No-Dig garden writers are profiled in Shapiro and Harrisson's Gardening for the Future of the Earth. [9]
How To. Very little surface preparation is required to build a no dig garden, assuming of course that weedy shrubs and trees have been removed. A preliminary step could be to solarize [10a, 10b] the area to kill perennial weeds. The general method is to cut, flatten, or mow existing surface vegetation. Then, following a soaking rain or irrigation, the surface is covered with several thicknesses of wet newspaper (Deans) or cardboard. [11] After soaking again, a mulch of whatever organic materials are available is applied over the cardboard or newspaper foundation. Typically the mulch would include straw, shredded wood chips, leaves, shredded junk mail, kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, used tea leaves, animal manures, weeds, and used potting soil. According to the Lasagna Method [7], equal volumes of "greens" and browns" are layered over the cardboard. More technically, the aim is to get a carbon to nitrogen ratio of 30 to 1. [12] After a few weeks to allow the mulch to settle in, planting begins directly into the mulch. Alternatively, the mulch may be allowed to over winter in preparation for spring planting. A recent innovation is the use of living mulches where the crop is planted together with a cover crop selected to surpress weeds. [13] No-dig gardening, as opposed to double digging, rototilling, or other forms of cultivation is intended to eliminate weeds, thereby eliminating the need for cultivation.
Raised beds, container gardening, and strawbale gardening [14] are all relevant methods of no-dig gardening. Below (Figure 1) is a hedge of potato plants planted in whiskey barrels in a west coast of Alaska garden. The red potato Ididered has a pink blossom, but white and yellow potatoes have white blossoms (see Thumbnail). Figure (3) is a coastal Alaskan raised bed garden.
Fig. 1. Potato Barrels in an Alaska garden Fig. 2. Ididared Potato Blossom Figure 3. Raised beds in an Alaskan garden. Zone 3
Why. Cultivation disturbs soil life, causes soil compaction, exposes and depletes nutrients, and kills micro-organisms. The natural cohesion of soil particles is disturbed so that erosion is more likely. The broad spectrum nutrients lost to cultivation are usually replaced by only the essential nutrients in commercial fertilizers. Not-digging, on the other hand, preserves the natural integrity of the soil. Not-digging improves soil health, and also protects against erosion, improves both the quality of garden plants and the environment. Environmental quality is enhanced when soil nutrients stay within the soil rather than eroding into rivers and streams or exposed where they contribute to atmospheric greenhouse gases. Excessive fertilizers contaminate groundwater, rivers, and streams causing eutrophication - a condition of excessive nutrients [15] which can threaten the habitats of aquatic animals and wild life.
Soil Integrity
Soil integrity refers to its (1) biological constituents, (2) chemical characteristics or fertility, and (3) physical properties. The soil's biological components integrate the physical and chemical properties to produce over-all soil quality.
Soil Biology. Bacteria, fungi, and soil animals are the main biological performers in soil bioactivity.
Soil bacteria and fungi. One type of soil bacteria is rhizobia, which are used to inoculate legumes and convert nitrogen into a form that the plants can use. They are called "nitrogen fixers". By forming a symbiotic relationship with plants, the fungi mycorhizas extract carbohydrates from plant roots and transfer phosphorous to the root. The hyphae (threads) formed by some mycorhizae stabilize soil. Micorhizae may also participate in copper and zinc metabolism of plants. [16]
The rhizosphere. The most productive part of soil is the upper 20 to 30 cm, which is called the root zone or rooting zone. The rhizosphere is the particular community of relationships between plant roots, adjacent soil, and microbial activity. Each type of plant exudes a signature exudate of carbon compounds. These carbon compounds attract certain microbes within the soil. These bacteria or fungi then form a symbiotic relationship with the plant root. As soil creatures feed on the root compounds they produce fecal pellets which cycle nutrients making them more available to the plant. Or, the fecal pellets may combine with soil particles to form aggregates more favorable to root growth by allowing water and nutrient filtration into the soil adjacent to the plant. [16]
In some cases soil bacteria will be attracted to root compounds, but exude antibiotics that repel other types of soil life-- making a niche for itself to flourish. This is one reason for crop rotation. Once a particular specialized microscopic community has developed, the microenvironment may become unfavorable to certain types of plants. Planting different plants with different exudate signatures will prevent the accumulation of unfavorable soil bacteria and maintain an overall balance within the soil.
The plowzone which comprises the upper 20 to 30 cm of soil on cultivated sites is the disintegrated, homogenized rhizosphere.
Soil Animals. Soil animals include earthworms, microarthropods, nematodes, and insects. Soil animals are classified into microfauna (mainly protozoa); mesofauna (mites, collembola [springtails] and nematodes); and macrofauna (earthworms, beetles and termites). All of these are concentrated in the upper 5 cm of soil. Megafauna are biological animals that burrow and dig into the soil and to varying extents modify its integrity. Megafauna include burrowing animals such as gophers, mice, voles, and rabbits. [17] Of the digging animals, man has been the most devastating to the integrity of soil.
Charles Darwin was one of the first to study the role of earthworms as soil building animals [18]. But, not all earthworms are adapted to all soils. Learn about the ecological devastation caused by exotic earthworms in this thread in the soil and composting forum, where greenbrain, equilibrium, and snapple present links to all you need to know about the threat of exotic earthworms.
Soil Chemistry. The chemical properties of soil affect fertility and include processes such as nitrogen fixation, sulfur oxidation, and organic decomposition. Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is the capacity of the soil to hold cations, or positively charged ions. Positively charged ions may be hydrogen, calcium, potassium, ammonium, or sodium ions, for example. Positively charged cations bind to negatively charged soil particles. CEC, expressed as CEC = meq/100g of soil, varies with different soil textures. Sand, for example has a very low CEC: only 2 - 4 meq/100 g of soil. While loam has 7 - 6 meq/100 g of soil, but clay has 40 - 60 meq/100 g soil. Organic matter has the highest of all. It has a CEC of 50 to 300 meq/100 g. soil. So you can see the importance of adding organic matter to soil. Organic matter improves soil fertility far beyond the CEC of soil that has no organic matter in it, even if commercial fertilizers are added to the soil. [19]
Physical Properties of Soil; Structure and Texture. The physical properties of soil are those characteristics that affect water movement and root penetration: structure and texture. Soil structure is the aggregation of particles and pores between them, while texture is the relative proportion of clay and sand. Because clay soils have the finest texture and pore size, they hold the greatest amount of water. They also hold heat better so they allow earlier planting in the spring and they can be gardened later in the fall. Clay soils also hold more ionized minerals or nutrients. But, they are easily compacted and harder to till. So, with correction for drainage by adding organic matter, clay soils are excellent candidates for gardens. The ideal garden soil texture is usually considered to be loam, which contains a percentage of clay: 40% sand, 40% silt, and 20% clay. In this thread in the Soil and Composting Forum, eden 100 discusses how to manage clay soil.
Cultivation not only disturbs natural biological processes within soil, but it also destroys scientific information necessary to the understanding of what those natural biological processes are. At least two kinds of scientific disciplines are dependent upon undisturbed soil: pedologists, or soil scientists and archaeologists who interpret past human behavior from the information in soil.
Fig. 4 is a typical soil profile. A soil profile is an arrangement of layers or soil horizons. The letters O, A, B, C, E, and R are used to describe the master horizons within a soil profile. The O or organic horizon consists of leaf litter and/or humus. The A horizon is the topsoil consisting of humus and minerals. The subsoil horizon, designated B, consists of clay and mineral deposits from the upper horizons such as iron, aluminum oxide, and calcium carbonate. Horizon C is also called the regolith, it occurs above the R horizon and below the B horizon. It consists of slightly broken up bedrock. It contains very little organic matter. The E horizon is an eleuvian or leached layer consisting of demineralized sand and silt. It is beneath the A horizon and above the B horizon. The R horizon is bedrock. [20] [21]
Many people think archaeology is about recovering artifacts, but in fact it is about reading soil profiles, depositional sequences, or stratigraphy.[22] Figure 5 shows the stratigraphic trenches left after the excavation of a complex burial mound. Figure 6 is a profile from the same burial mound Site 1Ms300 on the Tennessee River excavated by The Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA ) in 1975.
On archaeological sites that have been subjected to cultivation the upper 20 to 30 cm is called the plowzone. It is routinely scraped away with a front end loader before actual excavation can begin, because any information it may have contained was destroyed by cultivation.
Fig. 5. Stratigraphic Trenches after Excavation Fig. 6. Stratigraphy within the Burial Mound.
Based upon global land use data, Admundson compares the percentage of the earth's surface area devoted to grasslands, woodlands, forests, and deserts, and tundras after the development of culturvation. The earth's cultivated surface area has increased +1760.0% compared to the preagricultural era. Cultivated land has had a differential impact upon other pre-agricultural land-use types. Grasslands have decreased in favor of cultivation by -19.4%, woodlands by -18.6% and forests by -16.0%. The effect of cultivation on deserts and tundras has been negligible. [23] This of course reflects the global success of agricultural civilization, but at the expense of significant losses to major earth eco-zones. The loss of grasslands and forests affects the biological species dependent upon those habitats. And we are learning now that the loss of forests has severely affected global climate. The shift of land use to cultivation has therefore not only affected the habitats of other species, but it has profoundly modified the habitat of man himself.
Fig. 7. Snowshoe Hare Lepus americanus. Inhabitant of the Tundra,
A Zone Not Significantly Impacted by Cultivation.
[1] Fukuoka, M. One Straw Revolution: The Natural Way of Farming. Emmaus, Pennsylvania, Rodale Press, 1978.
-------- the natural Way of Farming: The Theory and Practice of Green Philosophy. Tokyo and New York: Japan Publications. 1985.
[5] Barbara Bamberger Scott. Ruth Sout, The No-Dig Dutchess. www.homestead.org
[6] Ruth Stout and Richard Clemence. The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book. Rodale Press. Aug. 1971. ISBN - 10:0878570004. ISBN - 13:978-0878570003 www.amazon.com
[8] Lee Reich. Weedless gardening. Workman Publishing. New York. ISBN 0-7611-1696-6
[9] Shapiro, Howard-Yana and John Harrisson. Gardening for the Future of the Earth. Bantom. Jan 4, 2000. ISBN-10: 0553375336, ISBN-13:978-0553375336
[10] a. Soil Solarization. ucce.ucdavis.edu pdf b. University of California. Soil Solarization - Informational Website. Dr. James Stapleton, IPM. Plant Pathologist. Kearney Agricultural Center, Parlier, California. solar.uckac.edu
[18] Charles Darwin. 1881. the Formation of Vegetable Mould Through the Action of Worms. Free Public Domain book from the Classic Literature Library. www.charles-darwin.classic-literature.co.uk
Figure 5. Cole, Gloria G. The Murphy Hill Site, 1Ms300: The Structural Study of a Copena Mound and Comparative Review of the Copena Mortuary Complex. Research Series No. 3. The Office of Archaeological Research. The University of Alabama. Tennessee Valley Authority Publications in Anthropology. No. 31. 1981. Stratigrahic Trenches after Excavation. Site 1Ms300, Marshall County, Alabama. TVA Excavation, 1975.
Figure 6. Cole, Gloria G. Ibid. 1981. Stratigraphy within the Burial Mound 1Ms300, Marshall County, Alabama. TVA Excavation, 1975.
Figure 7. Snowshoe Hare. Lepus americanus. Inhabits the forests and tundra regions of the northern U.S. and Canada. Its habitat is not threatened by cultivation. Photograph source: Private Collection.
DEDICATION: To Carol Eads, who has taught all of us who cared to listen the spirit of survival--of living strong in a harsh improbable environment, and of preserving her traditional culture as a Native Alaskan in modern times.
About Gloria Cole
I am a retired archeologist and curator of an historic house museum. I live in Greensboro, Alabama, a small rural historic Southern town, with my two dogs, a rabbit and (by recent count) two cats. I am upgrading a 100 year old neoclassic house and clearing and planting my two-and-one-half acre property. Of plants, I love roses best of all.
Posted by ceeadsalaskazone3 (from Seward, AK) on March 3, 2008 at 5:05 AM:
Noone ever retires from that! How many magazines on the subject do you have opened to a particular page do you have open at different places in your house,car, deck, work? hehehehe
I'm honored to be mentioned, much less dedicated to in your masterpiece! I dream of seeing a digital view of the Nile delta from first flood, to people moving themselves, household stuff, livestock, to higher ground as they must every spring with the flood, rhe rise itself, underground and all, and then the eventual drainage after some mishaps that must occur each year. Such a big event accomplished every year! And to think, as gardeners, we are a part of that huge seasonal dedication to the earth! I'm proud of you, to know you
Carol
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on March 3, 2008 at 8:38 AM:
Carol: The feeling is mutual. You cannot imagine the inspiration you have given me with the whole perspective of growing plants on a rocky Alaskan beach. I hope you are well.
gloria
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Subject: What about compaction?
Posted by Lancemg (from Aylett, VA) on February 25, 2008 at 3:43 PM:
Overall, I like the concept of no-till, but have concerns in two regards: working in additional nutrients and what to do with compaction. My yard is incredibly compacted from the construction (about 20 years ago), to the extent that leaves and twigs from the original clearing are still found when digging to plant in a new area. Even the original A layer is compacted and buried about a foot deep under the clay excavated for the foundation. So, in this instance, I find the only viable option is to double dig, at least the first time, a large area and work in bunches of organic material. This gives the roots room to grow down they would not otherwise have.
To work in additional nutrients, I use manure and compost, including chicken manure from my chicken house. I work this in with a tiller so I do not have to walk or dig through a surface layer of smelly, sticky stuff. Composting it first and putting it on the surface might also work, but I rarely have the opportunity to plan that far in advance, or properly turn a compost pile.
During the growing season, after the soil has warmed, I do mulch heavily and hand pull weeds, as cultivation is just as likely to disturb the extensive root systems of what was planted as it is to turn under weeds (and expose new weed seeds).
So, any suggestions for these situations to incorporate no-till practices? And what about heavily walked areas, that may be planted in following years with crop rotation? Thanks for any ideas.
...
Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 4:19 PM:
lance: Some people do want to double dig as a preliminary measure before going to a no-dig garden, but its more for psychological satisfaction than it is for soil improvement.
For clay or compacted soil I would use a cover crop classified as a "subsoiler". I am working on a cover crop article now, but you can check out Johnny's seeds or Peaceful Valley. If you have a season in advance, use the subsoiler crop first, then follow up with no dig.
If you use a subsoiler that will winter kill, you dont have to dig it in. It is ready made mulch.
I would suggest lasagna style layering of weeds, leaves, shredded mulch, animal manure if you have it, etc rather than composting. Composting results in a loss of nutrients that doesn't happen with lasagna style gardening. Then you might want to double check with a soil sample. No dig gardening preserves nutrients, you might need less than you think.
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Posted by queenbee244 (from Madison, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 8:09 PM:
Maybe I can help you out a little. I have a no till garden. I used the book LASAGNA GARDENING by Patricia Lanza. It addresses your concerns. In fact, this garden is suppose to be on top of your exhisting ground no matter what condition it is in. Without going into too much detail, it tells you exactly how to build your garden from the ground up. Your questions about heavily walked areas and crop rotation is even addressed. Take a look at this book, you won't be dissappointed. If you haven't already, read my thread 'I have a no till garden'. It will give you some more helpful info.
Happy No Till Gardening!
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 8:22 PM:
Thanks Queenbee! Nothing like information from the "horses mouth" i.e. the person with expertise.
gloria
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Posted by queenbee244 (from Madison, AL) on February 26, 2008 at 9:56 AM:
Gloria
That's the funny thing ('person with expertise'). All I did was read parts of a book, follow directions, and WOW did I get some amazing results! I can't take any credit. I am not really a green thumb (yet), but I am trying. I do not want to be perceived as a 'know it all', just someone that is experiencing amazing results and will share my success to anyone that will listen. I am a "if I can do it, anyone can do it" story!
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 26, 2008 at 10:14 AM:
Queenbee: That the amazing thing about davesgarden. Its not just the "experts" around here, but just people who have tried something and have experience.
I think 'lasagna gardening' or no-dig is really exciting. It brings a whole realm of gardening to people who are not necessarily that strong, or who don't have a whole lot of money to buy top soil, etc.
Thanks for sharing your experience. And where is your thread?
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Posted by queenbee244 (from Madison, AL) on February 26, 2008 at 2:20 PM:
Oh my, I wouldn't know where to begin to even start a thread. I am so green (new) to all this. When I get a little more familiar with the system, I may give it a try and share what little I know.
Thanks for your encouragement.
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 26, 2008 at 2:57 PM:
Queenbee:
Soulgardenlove is a no-dig girl also. Here is her thread.
If you want to break up compacted subsoil, choose a cover crop from that page that has an "SS" in the farthest right column. Look into daikon radishes too.
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 27, 2008 at 9:21 AM:
Hey. Ive been looking for that chart! Thanks, Puddle Pirate.
Daikon radish was a favorite of Masanobu Fukuoka for cracking up the subsoil.
gloria
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Posted by Lancemg (from Aylett, VA) on February 27, 2008 at 10:22 AM:
Thank you all for the information. I may give the lasagna gardening book a more thorough read, and download the chart mentioned. Another resource for this type of 'lazy' gardening is the Chicken Tractor book. Even for those without chickens or other critters, you will get a lot of valuable information out of it. When I get the chance, I hope to put one of the portable chicken systems together, and let the chickens do the work.
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 27, 2008 at 10:30 AM:
Lancemg: Chicken tractors are an integral part of permaculture gardening techniques. They go right along with No-dig gardening!
And the chickens don't mind doing the work!
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Subject: Great article..
Posted by lcosden (from Pawling, NY) on February 25, 2008 at 11:56 AM:
Was starting on a veggie garden this spring.. Think I'll change from a regular veggie garden to a no-till one..
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Subject: I love my notill gardens!
Posted by alinehuey (from Rockton, PA) on February 25, 2008 at 11:25 AM:
Great article. I am going to print it out to give to a friend. Thanks for all the links!
Aline Huey
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Subject: I have a No Till Garden
Posted by queenbee244 (from Madison, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 10:05 AM:
I have a small No Till garden and it is AMAZING. I read and applied this concept from the book LASAGNA GARDENING by Patricia Lanza as referred to in this article. This type of gardening has so many advantages including weed control. I live in Alabama and last year we had a very hot and dry summer. With the layers of organic material (including pete moss) this type garden retains moisture. My garden was so green and productive all summer with minimal watering (my neighbors were jealous). In fact, my 3 cucumber plants yielded 400 cucumbers before I pulled them up - and they still had blooms on them! Yes, it takes a little effort and $ at first to collect the 'ingredients' for this type of garden but it is soooo worth it. Think about it, just my cucs saved me $352 (the going rate for cucs is 2/$1.76). Just a warning, be ready for the harvest. Have your canning/freezing supplies and recipes ready. It can get overwhelming fast. Happy (no till) Gardening!
I have included a picture of my tiny garden that explodes with vegees. I grew my cucumbers up a trellis and onto my fence. That helps with space when you don't have a lot of room. The book also gives you great ideas with spacing and growing your garden 'up' to save room.
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Posted by Lindawalkabout (from Holden, MO) on February 25, 2008 at 10:51 AM:
A rich packed artical, thank you.
I use the no till on most my garden and it looks like a 100% no till (broke tiller, an old broke tiller) I put cardboard down and oh how nice that soil is when I'm ready to plant, plus all the earth worms : ) , those little cultavators. : )
With compost and raised beds theres no need to till the soil. I'm for this type of gardening.
I also have Ruth Stouts, No-work garden book.
queenbee244, great looking garden
Thanks again for a super artical
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 10:57 AM:
thanks for the comments.
Queenbee. You've got me convinced. I know how hot it was in Alabama last summer!
Just beautiful.
I think Im going to try the potato barrels this year.
gloria
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Posted by Fitsy (from Hayesville, NC) on February 25, 2008 at 1:42 PM:
I read that farmers here in North Carolina are being
encouraged to try "Ugly Farming" - instead of plowing after
a crop is finished, the farmer leaves the residue on the ground,
and drills the new crop right through it. This would be disconserting
to folks who equate "clean" fields with virtue. My farmer neighbor
did it, and there was a newspaper article about him.
Fitsy
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Subject: A great read
Posted by gardengus (from Flora, IN) on February 25, 2008 at 10:04 AM:
Thank you for a great educational article.
I will have to read it again to help retain all the information, then digest it for a week.
(slow learner here)
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 10:13 AM:
gardengus: If you think it will take a week to read it, imagine how long it took me to write it!
Thanks for your comments.
gloria
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Posted by DiggerDee (from Ffld County, CT) on February 25, 2008 at 1:58 PM:
I haven't had time to read this yet, but definitely will this evening. This is a great concept and one that I have started applying to my garden.
Gloria, I just saw a video provided by my local NOFA chapter that showed Mr.Fukuoka's farm and interviewed him. It was a wonderful video and very inspiring. I was happy to see him quoted here.
Looking forward to your article. I can tell you put a LOT of work into it. Thank you!
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Posted by victorgardener (from Lower Hudson Valley, NY) on February 25, 2008 at 2:00 PM:
Great article, Gloria. I am a firm believer in this and have never tilled my garden. Surprised at how many gardeners still till.
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Posted by darius (from Marion, VA) on February 25, 2008 at 2:43 PM:
Thanks Gloria! I've learned so many 'whys' for doing this from your article, and plan to print it out when I get another ink refill.
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Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on February 25, 2008 at 7:58 PM:
Yes, this was informative and filled with info - thanks Gloria :)
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Posted by roybird (from Santa Fe, NM) on February 25, 2008 at 8:13 PM:
Good article, Gloria. I thought I didn't till my garden because I was lazy but it ends up I was right all along! I do throw down compost, mulch and anything else that seems like a good idea.
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 8:24 PM:
Lately Ive been shredding junk mail. A layer of rabbit poop. A sprinkle of junk mail.
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Posted by Horseshoe (from Efland, NC) on February 26, 2008 at 12:02 AM:
What a great informative and to-the-point article. Thanks, Gloria for all the time you spent organizing this and putting it into easy to understand words. No doubt about it, people will surely learn from this.
Ya done good! I'm gonna mark this as a favorite (tag)!
Best,
Shoe
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 26, 2008 at 10:21 AM:
Thanks Shoe! It makes the work worth while to know that gardeners can use these amazing concepts to make their gardens better, more productive and more sustainable.
gloria
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Subject: Amazing Concept
Posted by Sharran (from Calvert City, KY) on February 25, 2008 at 3:10 AM:
There is so much information packed into this article, I feel that I have had a 3 hour college course in one evening. The process of no dig gardening appeals on many levels, it makes sense, and it is something that is possible for all of us. Thank you, Gloria, for another enlightening article and for giving us links for more supplemental reading. The more we learn from articles such as this, the sooner a difference can be made.
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Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on February 25, 2008 at 1:45 PM:
Thank you, Gloria, I find Sharon has said everything I planned to say only in a more eloquent way! Once again I am awed by the sheer volume of what I have still to learn. My husband (who deals with chronic back pain from a broken back) will be happy that he doesn't need to dig.... just read your links. Thanks for providing so much information in such a clear way. Huzzah!
x, Carrie
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on February 25, 2008 at 4:24 PM:
Carrie: I recovered from back sugery by learning to dig! As an archaeologist that's what I did for some twenty years was to dig 2 m by 2 m deep holes. There are good reasons to dig. A bad back is one. Finding out what's in there is another. But gardening isn't one of them.
gloria
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Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on February 25, 2008 at 5:08 PM:
Agreed. His bad back cannot, alas, be fixed by surgery. Walking is good for it, which I am totally unable to participate in, but, well, we do other things together. I take it flowers in containers are still ok, right?