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Japanese maples are often considered one of the most lovely garden trees. Certainly few garden plants exhibit such variation in habit, leaf form and colour. This article will be the first of several devoted to this most elegant of garden plants. Here will be described the cultural requirements of Japanese maples, how to plant and how they are placed into their various groups, based on size or leaf shape.
What is a Japanese Maple?
To most people, Japanese maples are the various forms and selections of Acer palmatum, a species endemic to Japan. In a broader sense, some nurseries will classify Japanese maples as including those species that are closely related and/or look similar to A. palmatum. These include A. japonicum, A. sieboldianum, A. pseudosieboldianum , A circinatum and A. shirasawanum. Technically, this is a false classification as A. pseudosieboldianum is native to Korea, not Japan. Meanwhile, A. circinatum, the vine maple, is native to the Pacific Northwest and is simply an American ‘Japanese maple’ wannabe! To plant taxonomists, Japanese maples include all those species native to Japan, which surprisingly includes 23 species! For the purpose of this article we will classify Japanese maples as selections and forms of A. palmatum.
Few maples exhibit as much variation in plant form, leaf form, size or colour as Japanese maples. The Japanese have been breeding and selecting this maple for well over 300 years. More recently, new cultivars are being released from Europe (in particular The Netherlands), United States, Australia and New Zealand. Today there are literally hundreds of named selections. Leaves range from fine and lacy to quite coarse; foliage may range from yellow, orange, red, burgundy, green or variegated; some have spectacular spring colour; most have excellent fall colour; plants may be nearly prostrate, mounding, umbrella-shaped to fastigiate. Heights can vary from under 1 m (3 feet) to over 12 m (40 feet). Thus, depending on your space and requirements, there will be at least one suitable Japanese maple for your garden. The only truly limiting factor is hardiness zone. The hardiest forms generally cannot survive colder than USDA zone 5. Some selections are even damaged during winters in zone 6.
Culture
Japanese maples are surprisingly adaptable. They are successfully cultivated from the wet Pacific Northwest to dry and sunny California. You will find them throughout the Midwest, southern Ontario and Quebec and along the Atlantic seaboard from Atlantic Canada south to the SE USA. They thrive throughout much of Europe, southern Australia and New Zealand and of course, eastern Asia.
The best light conditions would be morning sun but shade during the hottest afternoon hours. Many green-leaved selections can tolerate full sun but variegated and golden-leaved forms will often burn if exposed to hot afternoon sun. The red-leaved types certainly need at least morning sun to properly develop their characteristic colour.
They need reasonably moist soil; too dry and the leaf tips will burn, especially on the lacy-leaved types. The old adage "one inch of water once a week" works well. To help maintain adequate soil mositure, dig in plenty of organic material such as peat, leaf mould and compost. Japanese maples prefer acidic soil lending themselves as companion plants for Rhododendrons and other ericaceous plants. On the other hand, they can suffer from chlorosis if the soil is too alkaline. Use soil acidifying fertilizers in this latter situation.
Examples of Japanese maples interplanted with other acid-loving plants: left to right are 'Omure yama', 'Red Dragon', 'Sumini gashi' and 'Bloodgood'
In the wild, Japanese maples grow as understory trees thus are rarely exposed to strong winds. In the garden, they resent breezy locations. This is especially so in drier climates where dessication can cause leaf-tip burn in summer and in colder regions where dry, cold northwest winds in winter can cause stem die-back.
Planting
Japanese maples have relatively fine, fibrous roots which are easily damaged. Unless very young (under 4 years old), they should never be moved in a bare-root state. They also do far better when transplanted in spring rather than fall. Most Japanese maples are grafted but unlike roses, they do not need to be planted at or above the graft union. Rather, plant them at the same depth as they are growing in their pots. Mulching after planting will help keep the soil cool and maintain better soil mositure. Newly planted maples can be fertilized with any balanced fertilizer recommended for shrubs. If your soil is reasonably fertile, established plants will not require extra fertilizer.
Japanese maples are excellent subjects for container planting. The more dwarf types can tolerate very restricted root zones. This will slow their growth rates which, when growing plants in containers, is a good thing! Pots can be left aboveground in areas where the winter temperatures do not fall below -10 EC (14 EF). In colder areas, sink the pots in the ground over the winter months or use insulated containers.
Examples of container-grown Japanese maples: left to right are 'Koto-no-Ito', 'Ukigumo' and 'Red Pygmy'
Leaf shape classification
Details on the various types of Japanese maple selections that exist are topics for future articles. However, at this point it may be prudent to at least discuss their main groups. Cultivars are placed into one of six groups, based primarily on the leaf shape or in the case of the dwarf group, the ultimate height of the plant. These groups include:
Amoenum Group: these selections have the coarsest or fullest leaves. The leaf lobes are shallowly to moderately divided: up to 2/3 of the way to the leaf base. eg. Osakazuki
Palmatum Group: these have leaves typical of the wild species. Their lobes are moderately to deeply divided: 2/3 to 3/4 of the way to the leaf base. eg. Aka Shigatatsu Sawa
Matsumurae Group: these have deeply divided lobes: more than 3/4 of the way to the leaf base. These are often considered the most elegant group. eg. Sumini gashi
Linearilobum Group: these have the most divided lobes, essentially being divided to the base, but in addition, the lobes are narrow and strap-like. eg. Red Pygmy
Dissectum Group: these have deeply dividied lobes but in addition, the lobes are also deeply dissected. This results in a very lacy effect. eg. Red Dragon
Dwarf Group: these may have variable leaf forms but the mature heights are generally under 2 m (6 feet). eg. Sharp’s Pygmy
The above pictures illustrate the various groups. The examples shown are those cultivars noted above
About Todd Boland
I reside in St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada. I work as a research horticulturist at the Memorial University of Newfoundland Botanical Garden. I am one of the founding members of the Newfoundland Wildflower Society and the current chair of the Newfoundland Rock Garden Society. My garden is quite small but I pack it tight! Outdoors I grow mostly alpines, bulbs and ericaceous shrubs. Indoors, my passion is orchids. When not in the garden, I'm out bird watching, a hobby that has gotten me to some lovely parts of the world.
Posted by pianita (from Langley
(Canada)) on May 19, 2008 at 1:03 PM:
Thank you for your informative article. I would love to plant a smaller weeping maple along a north-facing fence. Unfortunately the bed receives no direct sun. There is, however, much ambient light. Is this possible? I live in the Fraser Valley, BC.
...
Posted by Todd_Boland (from St. John's, NL) on May 25, 2008 at 7:33 PM:
I would stick to the green-leaved types..they are the most shade tolerant of all the cultivars.
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Subject: Golden full moon japanese maple
Posted by cshofner (from Richmond, TX) on March 5, 2008 at 3:18 PM:
Looking for source and whether it will do well in zone 9??
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Posted by Todd_Boland (from St. John's, NL) on March 5, 2008 at 5:24 PM:
It might burn, but perhaps in a shadier spot. I can't speak for American sources as I live in canada.
Todd
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Subject: Arid Lands
Posted by moxiecosmos (from Tucson, AZ) on February 25, 2008 at 6:39 PM:
Could a Japanese Maple be grown in southern Arizona in the ground if it is on drip irrigation -- or if it is on gray water?
I am beginning to plan a Japanese garden for part of my otherwise xeriscaped environment. I can plant it where there is filtered shade (from a tall rhuslancea) but strong sun for a few midday hours. Or I could put it where it would get morning sun but more shade from midday on.
Thank you. Your article is very helpful and persuasive.
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Posted by Todd_Boland (from St. John's, NL) on February 25, 2008 at 9:04 PM:
It might be challenging. I'd only give them morning sun in your area. Regular water will certainly help. They like acidic soil...isn't the soil in your area alkaline? You might need to add an acidifying agent to your growing area.
Good-luck!
Todd
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Subject: full sun ornamental tree - max 20'
Posted by Krewson (from Conway, SC) on January 7, 2008 at 5:08 PM:
We have a small lot and are looking for an ornamental tree that can take full sun in coastal SC. I had my heart set on a Japanese Maple until I read 101. Any suggestions?
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Posted by Todd_Boland (from St. John's, NL) on January 7, 2008 at 8:04 PM:
JM might work...check with local garden centers to see if they are OK for your area. I cannot speak for SC...your climate is like Florida compared to Newfoundland so I could not say if JM would like the heat and humidity there.
Sorry I could not be of more help.
Todd
...
Posted by Krewson (from Conway, SC) on May 22, 2008 at 2:06 PM:
Thanks for answering me. I did check the garden and they were anxious to sell me one, but the big garden centers don't really have specimens of the quality I wanted. Found one at a Nursery/Landscape place.
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Subject: I believe I am love!
Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on January 6, 2008 at 4:47 AM:
I have fallen hard for the "Bloodgood" variety. I'm planning a "purple" themed area and I think that would make a magnificent focal point.
Lots of great information in your article and I really enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing.
...
Posted by Kathleen (from Panama, NY) on January 6, 2008 at 8:31 AM:
Hi Todd, I'm a A. palmatum lover from way back. I have "Bloodgood" in the front yard where it gets the north wind all winter, and yet thrives. I also have a member of the dissectum group (no cultivar name on the tag) in a rock bed on the SE corner of the house. It is currently about 2 feet high with a spread laterally of 4 feet. It is covered this year, but fought the elements unprotected last year and shed a few branches. It has a definite sweep to it - not exactly weeping, but most relaxed.
I've tried to raise cuttings from the dissectum. It is grafted onto a palmatum root, and I'd like to have one with it's own roots, but have had very bad luck. I think this spring, I'll pin one of the branches that insists on laying on the ground down and see if I can get some roots that way.
Great article, thanks.
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Posted by Lily_love (from Central, AL) on January 6, 2008 at 10:49 AM:
Crimson Queen is my star! Todd, beautiful and informative article. Thank you.
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 6, 2008 at 12:44 PM:
Todd, thank you for a wonderful article, well written and packed with information. Your photos are stunning! I have a butterfly J. maple as the focal point in my side garden, and your article makes me want to redesign my other beds... :-)
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Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on January 6, 2008 at 4:49 PM:
Superb article and photos - we too are real enthusiasts about these. What a treat this was!
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Posted by sparkielyle (from Apex, NC) on January 6, 2008 at 8:58 PM:
Thanks for the article. A very close friend died in Sept 2007 and our current favorite tree to plant in memory to him in our yard is a JM. I am the gardener in the family so I am looking and looking for that very special tree. I heard from Carolina Gardner tour there is a special farm that doesn't really advertise close to Greensboro NC but I can't remember more. I favor the oranges better than red and our friend was from TN so that seems fitting. Any very special ideas appreciated.
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on January 6, 2008 at 11:35 PM:
Oh. Me too! This is the best introduction to Japanese Maples Ive seen.
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Posted by Lori1 (from Lake Crystal, MN) on January 7, 2008 at 10:38 AM:
I have LOVED these trees for a few years now! Im in zone 4b and its been exciting for me to see what will make it through my winters. The Emperor 1 has been so outstanding! Ive had it in the ground now for 3 years, with no die back. The last time I counted I had 22 different kinds, some in pots but most in the ground.
I have been mulching,and the rabbits are just crazy around here so I have to put protection on for that to. Their is something so very...I cant express... about these gifts of nature, its just pure love for me!
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Posted by mwperry (from Brandon, MS) on January 12, 2008 at 4:43 AM:
Todd, your article was one of the best I've read for JM 101. I am in Zone 8a. Presently I have two JMs doing splendidly: Sheina (dwarf) and Emerald Green (lace leaf). I tried to grow a lace leaf Bloodgood about two years ago. It died. I think it didn't like the Mississippi full sun. Also, it was a fairly large tree transplanted from a local nursery.
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on January 12, 2008 at 7:20 PM:
sparkielyle. Yes, I would like to know more about orange varieties also.
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Posted by Todd_Boland (from St. John's, NL) on January 12, 2008 at 9:39 PM:
One of the most popular orange varieties is 'Orange Dream'...it leaves out orange, turns chartreuse in summer then orange-red in fall. 'Katsura' is very similar and also starts off orange but turns more yellow-green in summer but turns back orangy in fall. 'Orangeola' leaves out orange but turns red then back to orange-red in fall. The first two are palmatum types, the last a dissectum (and dwarf). Omure yama is still one the brightest oranges in fall but starts off green with a bronzy cast then green in summer.
...
Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on January 12, 2008 at 9:43 PM:
Thanks Todd: Ill look for those.
I wonder how the Japanese maples would mix with camellias. the camellias always have a dark green waxy leaf and they are evergreen.
It would seem that the lacy leaf structure of the JMs would provide a nice contrast, but Im not sure if the cultural requirements are similar.
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Posted by Todd_Boland (from St. John's, NL) on January 13, 2008 at 7:34 AM:
Both prefer acidic soil...I think they would work perfectly!
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Posted by sparkielyle (from Apex, NC) on May 25, 2008 at 9:47 PM:
I had a tough time finding Orange Dream. Not many folks have it in stock. I ordered one from Forest Farm, tube size. It has been doing great. I saw only one in my area - it was very large and had awesome color. Awesome price to at $600...hence the small one. Good luck and you can't go wrong with this one!
