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By David Salman, High Country Gardens (asalman) March 12, 2007
Lavender thrives in hot weather and grows well in a wide range of soils, as long as they are well drained. Learn how to plant, prune, and feed lavender plants.
The genus Lavandula is a favorite group of ornamental herbs native to southern Europe and the Mediterranean. These sun-loving plants thrive in hot weather and grow well in the West in a wide range of soils, even compost-enriched garden loams, as long as they are well drained. Heavy, poorly-drained clay soils can be fatal. Lavender plants will be taller and wider in mild winter, hot summer climates. The same varieties when grown in cold (zone 5-6) winter climates tend to be more compact. Lavender plants require two-to-three growing seasons to reach mature size.
Lavenders are rabbit and deer resistant.
Pruning established plants
In spring as needed. When plants begin to show signs of new growth, cut back the old stems by no more than a third to re-invigorate the plant and encourage more flowers. Harvesting the flowers each year helps maintain plant vigor.
Fertilizing
Top-dress with Yum Yum Mix and Planters II once a year in mid-to-late fall or mid-spring (as the plants begin to show new growth).
Planting Tips
Lavender must be planted in full-sun locations with good air circulation and fast-draining, alkaline soil. Sandy and sandy-loams are a “must” in the eastern US and Midwest! Lavender will tolerate clay and clay-loam in dry climates.
Ample coarse-textured compost can be added at planting time to “open-up” heavier soils. Add lime in acidic soils. In wetter climates, plant on a slope or in raised bed to facilitate faster drainage.
Two inches of very coarse sand or small diameter gravel around the base of the plant keep the crown drier and promotes healthy plants in all climates.
Water deeply but infrequently after their 2nd growing season. Take care not to over-water established plants.
Cold-Hardy Lavender Varieties
English types: Lavandula angustifolia cultivars are among the most cold-hardy, and they bloom in late spring. They have compact flowering spikes on short-to-medium stems. ‘Hidcote Superior’, ‘Royal Velvet’ and ‘Mitcham Gray’ have the darkest flowers. ‘Graves’ is valued for its fragrant, long-stemmed flowers. ‘Buena Vista’ blooms twice, in spring and fall. Reports from the Denver area indicate that Lavandula angustifolia 'Nana' is an exceptionally cold hardy cultivar.
Lavandin (French hybrid) types: Lavandin or Lavandula x intermedia cultivars (hybrids between English lavender and L. latifolia) are among the tallest growers with elongated flowering spikes on long stems. ‘Provence’ and ‘Hidcote Giant’ are deliciously aromatic and are used for oil production and sachets. ‘Grosso’ is one of the best for use in crafts and as a dried flower.
Other hybrids: ‘Silver Frost’ has incredible silver foliage and a powerful fragrance. ‘English’ is compact and very fragrant. Both are exceptionally heat tolerant in low- humidity areas.
Culinary use: Lavandin has become popular as an herb for cooking. ‘Provence’ is an excellent variety for this use.
About David Salman, High Country Gardens
David Salman is a 1979 graduate of Colorado State University with a degree in Horticultural Science. He started Santa Fe Greenhouses, a retail greenhouse and nursery in Santa Fe, NM in 1984 and the High Country Gardens mail order catalog in 1993. Through many years of hands-on experience, David has acquired expertise in a wide range of horticultural endeavors. These include all aspects of greenhouse production, perennial propagation, commercial tree farming as well as regionally appropriate landscape design, installation and maintenance for the Intermountain West. David spends his time running the business in addition to writing and producing the High Country Gardens catalog. He also devotes considerable effort searching for and evaluating the garden performance of new and interesting plants. He places special emphasis on native species from the US and northern Mexico, as well as cold hardy, xeric species from western Asia, China and South Africa.
Posted by thezombieyoda (from Glasgow, Scotland
(United Kingdom)) on January 11, 2008 at 7:43 PM:
Hello friends
Last year I bought 6 french lavenders by mail? (yeh, I'm stupid. I've forgotten the name of the type already!!!). Followed the planting instructions , only 1 survived up to now. It seems to be thriving - nearly 2 foot tall - but I want to move it about 3/4 feet so it can be a center piece surrounded by other plants!
Is it okay to just move it now before the growing season starts or should it stay in position for a certain number of years to give the roots time to establish ?
If I do move it is there a danger of shock to the plant or something similer?
Thanks for any help you can give :o).
James.
Ps. in case any answer depends on where Iive I'm writing from Glasgow in Scotland - thanks again from a newby 50 year old gardener :o).
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Subject: Plants that Heal-Aloe,Lavendar & Stevia
Posted by dbsgarden (from West Bridgewater, MA) on March 19, 2007 at 5:59 AM:
I am looking for articles on the healing aspects of Aloe, Lavendar, and Stevia.
If anyone has anything I'd be greatful. My e-mail is [e-mail:dbourne111@comcoast.net].
My name on this site is 'dbsgarden'. I just joined today.
'Follow Your Bliss'
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Subject: Candymint Crabapple/No Fruit
Posted by yomclipper (from West Roxbury, MA) on March 7, 2007 at 11:53 AM:
I purchased a Candymint Crabapple (Malus "Candymint") at The Home Depot two years ago. When purchased, it already had set fruit. I planted it in September and it survived our Zone 6 winter nicely and appears to be flourishing, but it did not set any fruit. Does this tree self-pollinate or does it requre a male pollinator ? If so, what kind ?
This message was edited Mar 7, 2007 12:08 PM
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Subject: article
Posted by fireant13 (from Mascotte, FL) on February 12, 2007 at 4:45 PM:
This article is informative. I wasn't sure whether or not lavender would survive in Florida.
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Posted by dave (from Jacksonville, TX) on February 13, 2007 at 3:29 PM:
We've grown Lavender in our hot and dry Texas climate quite successfully!
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Posted by fireant13 (from Mascotte, FL) on February 13, 2007 at 9:10 PM:
That's good to know. Though it has plenty of humidity, Florida has periods of drought.
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Posted by Gustichock (from Tandil
(Argentina)) on February 13, 2007 at 10:01 PM:
Great information!!! What about propagation? I've recently started a thread about lavender. I have a small piece of land where the soil is deep black (rich in humus) but very dry (humidity doesn't go higher that 45%).
It's summer here in Argentina. Is this the right time to make cuttings?
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Posted by David_HCG (from Santa Fe, NM) on February 18, 2007 at 12:00 PM:
The best lavender species for hot, humid climates like Florida are not the typical English varieties('Munstead' or 'Hidcote')and French hybrid types('Grosso' or 'Provence'). Instead Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) and French (Lavandula dentata) will be the best choices. Be sure to plant them in sandy soil so they won't rot during the rainy season.
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Posted by fireant13 (from Mascotte, FL) on February 18, 2007 at 1:48 PM:
Thanks for that information. I've seen lavendar grown in planters indoors in malls, but wasn't sure about outdoors. I have the sandy soil, which drains so well that the plants which do crave water suffer.
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Posted by Suezspring (from Springville, AL) on April 29, 2007 at 5:13 AM:
The 'Munstead' has worked well for me in North Alabama, as long as it is planted in a raised bed for excellent drainage and is allowed good air circulation. Planted thusly, it should survive the wet, wet springs and the hot drought of summer in many areas below the Mason-Dixon. My friend in zone 8a also reports success.
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Posted by bentleigh (from Maitland, FL) on June 28, 2007 at 9:19 AM:
Thanks for the info on Lavender, we are hoping to use it as a border in our back yard, which gets a lot of sun during the day with some shade. Any ideas on what if any preparation before planting is needed, and what distance apart should we plant the lavender.
We live in central florida and have a sprinkler system so the soil does not dry out completely in the summer.
I would be interested in some feed back from anyone in the Orlando area who has had luck with lavender and what type did you plant. Also any suggestions on where to buy it.
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Posted by kmargrave (from Colorado Springs, CO) on July 6, 2008 at 7:16 PM:
Great article!
I planted Munsteads, Provence French lavender and dwarf Hidcotes in our gawd-awful Colorado clay (heavily amended with compost), and am crossing my fingers that this will be good enough. I grew the Hidcotes from seed, and they were the only seedlings that had a tough time making it through hardening out this Spring. They're slow growers (less than an inch tall after 2 months in the garden), but are doing better than the Provence... and they seem to forgive my husband's heavy handed watering best of the three. They also forgave being accidentally buried under a rock for 2 weeks! Hmmm... think that might have contributed to their bonsai state? :O
English types: Lavandula angustifolia cultivars are among the most cold-hardy, and they bloom in late spring. They have compact flowering spikes on short-to-medium stems. ‘Hidcote Superior’, ‘Royal Velvet’ and ‘Mitcham Gray’ have the darkest flowers. ‘Graves’ is valued for its fragrant, long-stemmed flowers. ‘Buena Vista’ blooms twice, in spring and fall. Reports from the Denver area indicate that Lavandula angustifolia 'Nana' is an exceptionally cold hardy cultivar.
