You've found the famous Dave's Garden website! Join this friendly global community that shares tips and ideas for home and gardens, along with seeds and plants!
Check out the DG homepage for a brief overview of what you'll find in this gardening mega-site.
Login
If you don't have an account yet, visit the registration page to sign up.
Most folks are putting away their gardening tools in late fall but don’t be so quick to retire inside for the winter. Did you know that winter is the perfect time to prune most deciduous trees?
Why winter?
There are several good reasons to prune trees in winter:
The foliage is gone and the structure of the branches is clearly visible.
The tree is dormant, this will eliminate the bleeding of sap from the fresh cuts.
In the case of oak trees they should only be pruned during the winter. This is due to the fact that freshly cut oaks emit an odor which attracts the beetle that causes oak wilt. This is a serious disease that often times will kill the tree. The beetles are hibernating during the winter.
There are several other varieties of tress that are less likely to contract diseases when pruned during the winter months. Prune locust to prevent stem canker. Prune apple, crab apple, mountain ash, and hawthorn to avoid fire blight.
Exceptions to winter pruning
As with any rule there are exceptions to winter pruning.
Trees and shrubs that prune in early spring should be pruned immediately after their blooms fade.Some examples of these are chokeberry (Aronia), flowering plum or cherry (Prunus), juneberry (Amelanchier), lilac (Syringa) and deciduous flowering magnolias.
Pruning Equipment
In order to prune a tree or shrub correctly, you need to have the proper equipment.To avoid injury to the tree your pruning tools need to be sharp. Dull cutters leave rough or jagged cuts which are an invitation to insects and disease.
Hand Pruners
Used to remove small branches up to the size of your middle finger.
Loppers
Used to remove branches 2-3 inches in diameter.
Pruning Saws
Specialized saws with widely spaced teeth. Can handle branches up to 5-6 inches.
Chain Saws
Used to remove larger branches. Available in both gasoline and electric models.
Pruning Guidelines
There is a pruning guideline called the “5 D’s” that describes situations where pruning may be done at any time: these 5 D's are dead, dying, diseased, damaged, or deformed branches.
The same tree, before and after pruning.
Why do we prune trees?
There are two objectives when deciding to prune a shade tree: strength and form.
Pruning for strength means to plan to prune so that the limbs and branches are strong and stable.This will eliminate the chances of it being damaged by wind or ice and snow. Small angles and weak limbs need to be removed.
Pruning for form means to produce an aesthetically pleasing tree that is balanced and sized for the space it occupies.
Pruning for Strength.
Look for branches that are rubbing together.Rubbing results in open wounds that will allow insects and diseases access to the tree. Remove one of the rubbing branches.
Water sprouts or suckers are found in the interior of the tree as well at the base of the trunk.They grow rapidly and use more of the trees energy than they return. Removing these can be an ongoing process, remove them as they appear.
Branch angles are an important factor when pruning for strength.A low angle where the branch meets the trunk is a weak spot.These branches are more susceptible to damage from wind and ice damage. Picture the branch angle as hands on a clock; the ideal angle is a 10 and 2 o’clock configuration or about 45 degrees in relation to the trunk.
Lateral branches should be no more than ½ to ¾ the diameter of the trunk.
Pruning for Form.
Most trees will thrive when some of the interior branches have been removed. This allows for air circulations and additional sunlight to reach the interior of the tree.
Leaders. Leaders are the uppermost branch of the tree that are growing vertically. On new trees you may have to choose from several and choose the most desirable and remove the others.
Inward growing branches. You will also want to remove any branches that are growing inward toward the center of the tree or are growing downward.
When cutting branches over 1 1/2" in diameter, cut from bottom at A, cut at B 2-4 " outward from A until branch falls. Then cut at C
Once you completed the initial pruning is will be easy to keep up with an annual light pruning of the tree.
One final note: do not use pruning paint or tar on any pruning cuts. Studies have shown that the tree will do much better if allowed to heal on its own. The only exception to this rule is if you have to prune an oak tree during the spring or summer due to wind damage or other mishap, do apply a pruning paint to those wounds in order to deter insects.
Sketches courtesy of University of Florida (UFAS).
About Paul Rodman
Paul Rodman has been gardening for over 40 years. He is an Advanced Master Gardener, and American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian. He is currently president of the Western Wayne County Master Gardener Association in Wayne County, Michigan.
Rodman is the garden columnist for The News Herald newspaper, in Southgate, Michigan. He has also written for the OrganicGardening.com web site.
He has lectured on various gardening topics throughout southeastern Michigan.
His favorite pastime is teaching children about gardening. For the past several years he has conducted classes for second grade students teaching them about subjects ranging from vermi-composting to propagation.
Posted by HenryHudson (from Britton, MI) on March 3, 2008 at 9:08 AM:
Hello to all. Can someone please explain the difference between a stopping cut and a branching cut?
...
Subject: timing
Posted by zenpaladin (from Vandergrift, PA) on January 7, 2008 at 4:56 PM:
So let me get this straight, if I prune my Japanese Maples, Cotinus coggygria, etc., at this time I will not have to worry about cold damage? I live outside of Pittsburgh, so although the weather is rather balmy now, soon the bottom will fall out.
...
Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on January 7, 2008 at 5:31 PM:
The tree is dormant now, that why it's a good time to prune.
If it's so small does it really need to be pruned?
Is the shape ok, are there any crossing or rubbing branches?
...
Subject: Question for my tree trimmer
Posted by Connie_W (from Austin, TX) on January 3, 2008 at 10:47 PM:
Paul,
I have 2 motts of red oaks here in Austin, Texas. One tree of one mott (group) has a trunk where the bark is peeling off! Should that entire trunk be trimmed or wait until it dies (or will it?)
Thanks so much!!
...
Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on January 3, 2008 at 10:50 PM:
It appears that it's pretty bad.
I would have a certified arborist come out and take a look at it.
Paul
...
Posted by Connie_W (from Austin, TX) on January 3, 2008 at 10:55 PM:
Well, I did today and he said to leave it until the bark was all off...all the way to the top. He said in about 2 years it would probably have to come out, but in the meantime I need the canopy of leaves it provides so that the tree will live.
I didn't explain all to you, but we had this same arborist come out 2 years ago bc these trees were dying and we thought the people who lived behind us had poisoned them! He treated them with a systemic fert. system and they lived. But I want that ugly branch gone....just trying to get another "opinion" from you.
I'll try to find a picture of the entire group of trees...
...
Posted by mommis56 (from Alden, MN) on January 7, 2008 at 1:58 PM:
Thank you for the timely article. We have a number of mature trees surrounding our home that need pruning. The guy who was supposed to do this didn't show up last fall, and I was wondering if it would be alright to do them now. I will give him a call once more. I don't want him driving around on my lawn in the spring!
...
Subject: Question
Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on January 3, 2008 at 6:22 PM:
Paul, when a limb is broken on a flowering cherry tree due to high winds recently **sigh**, I assume it's ok to trim/cut now even though it's not the correct season?
...
Posted by KyWoods (from Melbourne, KY) on January 3, 2008 at 10:02 PM:
I was wondering the same thing about an Eastern Redbud the other day--perfect timing. Thanks, Paul!
...
Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on January 3, 2008 at 10:06 PM:
definitely, broken or damaged limbs should be removed as soon as possible to avoid further damage.
Paul
...
Subject: Very well written
Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on January 3, 2008 at 11:57 AM:
This is such a clear and concise well written article. Good stuff, thanks
...
Posted by Lily_love (from Central, AL) on January 3, 2008 at 12:08 PM:
I'm a fan, please keep your articles coming to DG, please Paul.
...
Posted by cocoajuno (from Marysville, WA) on January 7, 2008 at 2:33 PM:
What better timing...we noticed last week new limbs on our apple trees shooting across all the others. I am going out to get those unsightly limbs out today. Thanks for taking the time to diagram and explain all of this. Keep the articles coming.
...
Subject: Great information I'm going to share!
Posted by cathy4 (from St. Louis County, MO) on January 3, 2008 at 11:33 AM:
As usual, your articles are timely and so easy to understand. I'm printing this one out for my husband to guide him on cleaning up a tree damaged by storms. Thanks!
...
Subject: I will absolutely use this!
Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on January 3, 2008 at 11:31 AM:
Paul, this is great news! All summer my husband (with his shiny new chainsaw and his other sharp implements) and I kept agreeing that the enormous maple tree in the back yard that has turned my lovely new sunny raised bed into a forced shade garden must be pruned, but what with one thing and another, be never got around to it. He has ALL of January off from school - now if only it would warm up just enough so he can move his fingers, I'll show him your excellent article!
x, Carrie
...
Posted by planolinda (from Plano, TX) on January 3, 2008 at 12:30 PM:
this is great news for me also--i had a lot of trees trimmed last year and every so often my husband or i do a little trimming--i am sorry to say but we just cut with no realy plan---now i have an idea of what to do--and you made it all so easy and concise!! i did not know about the down ward branches or the two thick ones needing to be pruned--and the angle pictures really helped --
...
Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on January 3, 2008 at 12:47 PM:
I agree - very clear pictures and instructions! The more I think about it, the more I liked it. x, C
