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Roses are heavy feeders, if you’re going to successfully grow roses you need to set up a regular fertilization program.
One of the most important tasks that you can do before starting to grow a new plant is to get a soil test. This will give you an accurate indication of the chemical makeup of your soil. The test will also include recommendations on what amendments you need to successfully grow roses in your garden.
All plants need 16 chemical elements for healthy growth. Most of these elements are already available in the air and the soil and don’t need to be added by us.
There are 3 macro nutrients that most of us are familiar with and play the most important part in a plant's health.
The 3 macro nutrients are Nitrogen (N) Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K).
These 3 elements are usually the main ingredients in the fertilizers that most of us use.
Nitrogen is converted to amino acids which make up the plants DNA. It stimulates dark green foliage which is critical to a plant's health.
Phosphorus this element can be affected by environmental factors which can influence its uptake by the plant. It helps to stimulate strong root growth, large flowers and strong stems.
Potassium also aids in producing vigorous root systems, and encourages strong bloom color.
Organic vs. in organic
The choice is yours as whether to go organic or non-organic or a mixture of both. Organic fertilizers take a little longer to break down in the soil and to be taken up by the plant than chemical fertilizers.
Organic fertilizers are derived from formerly living plants or animals. Some examples are bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, and fish emulsion.
A new organic rose food from Bradfield Organic I want to test in the coming season. This is a 4-6-3 blend
Chemical fertilizers are manmade formulated to specific plants needs.
The term “Balanced Rose Food “ means that it contains a blend of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium not necessarily in equal parts; but in a formulation that is beneficial to roses.For example a rose fertilizer labeled as a 6-12-6 means that is has 6% N 12% P and 6% K. The other 76% of the fertilizer are trace elements and inert ingredients.
When to Fertilize
Newly Planted Roses
As I mentioned in an earlier article, I apply no fertilizer when planting a new rose. I add compost and a handful of bone meal or super phosphate to the planting hole. After the first bloom cycle is complete you can start your fertilization program.
Established Roses
The best indicator that I can give you as to when to begin fertilizing in the spring is; when the forsythia blooms you can prune and fertilize your roses.
Bayer 2 in 1 also contains a systemic insecticide. I've had no insect problems since I've been using this product
I personally have been using the Bayer 2 in 1 Flower and Rose Care for several years and am very happy with the results. I apply it when I first prune in the spring and reapply it every 5-6 weeks during the growing season with the last application the 2nd or 3 rd week in August here in USDA zone 6. This gives any new growth time to harden off before the first frost hits.Between these applications I make an alfalfa tea and apply every 2-3 weeks. By following these procedures I produce a pretty good rose garden.
Here is a recipe for an organic rose fertilizer you can make yourself.
Organic Rose Food
1 cup bone meal or super phosphate (0-20-0) 1 cup cottonseed meal ½ cup blood meal ½ cup fish meal This recipe is per each bush Water thoroughly, spread mixture evenly around the rose at the drip line. Scratch into the top 1-2 inches of soil and water again.
Alfalfa meal is an excellent source of nitrogen for roses
Alfalfa Tea
4- 1 pound coffee cans of alfalfa meal
Place the meal into a black 30 gallon trash can.Fill the can with water, cover and place in a sunny location. After 1 week it is ready to use. I use a 2 gallon watering can on each plant. It may also be sprinkled on the foliage.
This year I’m going to begin to use a produce called Messenger on my roses.It contains a protein called Harpin. I’ve heard nothing but rave reviews on this product. I can’t wait to use it. Have any of you used it on your roses?
Coming next on Growing Roses from A-Z: Diseases and pests that affect roses.
About Paul Rodman
Paul Rodman has been gardening for over 40 years. He is an Advanced Master Gardener, and American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian. He is currently president of the Western Wayne County Master Gardener Association in Wayne County, Michigan.
Rodman is the garden columnist for The News Herald newspaper, in Southgate, Michigan. He has also written for the OrganicGardening.com web site.
He has lectured on various gardening topics throughout southeastern Michigan.
His favorite pastime is teaching children about gardening. For the past several years he has conducted classes for second grade students teaching them about subjects ranging from vermi-composting to propagation.
Posted by igrowm (from Saint Charles, MO) on February 26, 2008 at 4:38 PM:
It is possible to add super absorbant gels to flower garden soil. Also, I have used these when transplanting trees and bushes. I am wondering if it would help roses to use such a product as a soil additive. One website, [HYPERLINK@www.horticulturalalliance.com] offers much helpful information, but nothing about roses specifically.
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on February 26, 2008 at 6:51 PM:
I never have but you could try it.
They're pretty expensive to use in large amounts.
3-4 inches of mulch will conserve a lot of water.
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Subject: benefits of the organic method for roses
Posted by mudpiegirl (from Los Lunas, NM) on January 29, 2008 at 3:59 PM:
I enjoyed this article but I was surprised to see that so many people find they have to spend so much time and energy on their roses! I live in New Mexico, and I have been growing mostly David Austin roses (I have about a dozen now) with fantasitic results for years. My 10-year-old Graham Thomas grows bigger than the house if I don't prune it twice a year. I do not feed heavily, but I did start with soil that I amended with a lot of organic homemade compost, cotton meal compost, and organic manure. I usually only fertilize once a year with some fish emulsion or a locally-made alfalfa-based product that I work into the soil, Because this is the desert, I try to keep watering to once a week, and I use a straw mulch, which also helps improve the soil as it breaks down. The benefit of organic gardening is that everything you do adds to the health of your soil, improves your soils tilth and the natural microorganizism that support plant health and prevent diseases. I have never had a problem with any disease, and the aphids that show up in the spring are quickly devoured by ladybugs and lacewings. Organic gardening is cheaper and less time consuming in the long run-- like Paul Rodman says, everyone is free to make their own choice, but my experience has been that organic gardening makes the job a lot easier!
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Subject: Earthworms and other miscellania
Posted by cooleyedbabe (from Ventura, CA) on January 28, 2008 at 8:42 PM:
I am in Ventura, CA.
I use organic fertilizers because I've heard chemical fertilizers kill the worms and/or does not "feed" them. Would appreciate hearing from others about this.
I put a cup of bone meal in the rose hole, then mix equal parts of cottonseed meal/blood meal/organic postassium and mix about 1 cup of that into the top soil that goes around the plant.
This is my first planting venture with roses and I hope I haven't killed them with kindness. I have planted Midas Touch, Blue Skies, Betty White, Mr. Lincoln, Folklore, Pope John Paul, Kordes Speelwark plus several minis. I also planted a lot of dahlias, which I've never had.
I had an established rose garden in Portland Oregon and used the Bayer 3-in-1 (fungicide/insecticide/ferilizer).
I just bought a different brand of systemic insect killer concentrate that is used like Bayer but has nothing else in it.
I scour the internet for everything I can find about roses and dahlias.
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Subject: Messenger
Posted by unajardinera (from Spokane, WA) on January 28, 2008 at 7:39 PM:
Hi Paul,
I've used Messenger on my roses here in Spokane Washington and feel that it was valuable. I'm not good at taking before and after photos, but feel that my roses suffered less from diseases as a result. Northland Rosarium here in the area, and the local American Rose Society continue to compare notes about the product. I visited an organic garden in the Seattle area that uses Messenger, and I was very impressed that their roses did not seem to be suffering from blackspot, a common malady in that humidity. Wish I had something more conclusive to say.
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on January 28, 2008 at 7:46 PM:
I ordered some for the coop several weeks ago. I'll be trying it for the first time.
I've heard many good things about it.
Any tips on its use?
Paul
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Posted by unajardinera (from Spokane, WA) on January 30, 2008 at 11:12 PM:
Wish I could be more helpful. I haven't been a very observant gardener lately. It is absorbed through the leaves. I would love to know what you observe. Thanks for the article!
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Subject: Hey a fellow Michigander
Posted by jazzzy704 (from Fenton, MI) on January 28, 2008 at 11:39 AM:
I also love roses and wish you would share you knowledge about HY Ts in the colder zones and your spraying cycle!!
I enjoyed the article. Thank You,
Julie from Fenton, MI.!!!
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on January 28, 2008 at 1:49 PM:
I will do an article on spraying roses in colder regions.
Zone 7 and colder.
Paul
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Posted by jazzzy704 (from Fenton, MI) on January 31, 2008 at 12:00 PM:
Way cool Paul thanks!!
julie
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Subject: Alfalfa tea
Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on January 25, 2008 at 3:35 PM:
I've heard so much good stuff about this - how often do you use it?
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on January 25, 2008 at 4:18 PM:
Every 2-3 weeks.
It;s an excellent source of nitrogen.
Nitrogen passes through the soil quickly so it needs to be replaced often.
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Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on January 25, 2008 at 4:22 PM:
Thanks!
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Subject: Your rose series is excellent
Posted by McGlory (from Southeast, NE) on January 25, 2008 at 11:33 AM:
Thanks, paul. I've enjoyed your rose series very much. It's always good to have useful information all in one spot.
Lori
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on January 25, 2008 at 12:05 PM:
tThank you.
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Posted by DriftingDude (from Charleston, SC) on January 27, 2008 at 6:04 AM:
A big thumbs up on your articles. I've written your formula and will use this year on my roses. Thanks again.
