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Why start from seed? You might be tempted by the photos in the seed catalogs that fill your mailbox in January. You may want to grow wonderful heirloom vegetables that just aren’t available in your local garden centers. You could decide it’s more cost effective to start flats of plants from seed than to buy them outright. But I think the best reason to start plants from seed is that it’s just such fun! From seed to garden specimen is a magical process, and it’s enchanting to watch it unfold. Making this magic happen inside, however, requires LIGHT...
Although generations of gardeners have started seeds on sunny windowsills, the seedlings often end up tall and spindly. If you want flats of sturdy seedlings, but you don’t have a greenhouse, a light shelf is the way to go.
Sunny windowsills aren’t really as bright as they look, compared to outdoor sunshine. If you’re starting plants inside, artificial light is a big help. You can purchase wonderful shelf units with expensive grow lights, and they will certainly work. But you can get the same results on a much more slender budget.
Seedlings don’t need full spectrum lights; the cool fluorescent tubes in a cheap shop light are fine. A fixture with two 48 inch fluorescent tubes will provide enough light for two standard nursery flats (1020 size) of seedlings. It’s important to set up the light so that the height can be adjusted to keep the light just an inch or two from the top leaves of the seedlings as they grow. If you use a bookcase or storage shelf unit, you can hang a light over a shelf on adjustable chains or ropes. Just hang the fixture from the next shelf up (or from the ceiling for the top shelf). A useful knot to know for adjusting ropes is the taut-line hitch. The fluorescent lights that most of us are used to seeing are T-12s, which use 40 watts of electricity per 48 inch tube. There are some newer fluorescent lights on the market now, and I especially like the slim 32 watt T-8 tubes. Their electronic ballasts don't flicker, making the light seem brighter and cleaner to me. I also appreciate having just a little extra clearance when my tomato seedlings start reaching for the sky. The T-8 tubes and fixtures are a bit more expensive than the T-12’s, but the difference is partially offset by the energy savings.
If you want the most bang for your buck, the 48 inch tubes and fixtures are the most cost effective for the home grower. If your space is limited, fluorescent tubes do come in other sizes. Fixtures that take two 24” tubes should be easy to find and will provide enough light for a single flat of plants. Fluorescent fixtures and tubes are manufactured in a variety of sizes for the aquarium trade, but these can be costly unless you find them secondhand. The cheapest solution is usually to find a space where you can rig up a 48 inch shop light or two. Plant stands and shelves also come in a range of sizes and prices. The Propagation Forum has had some wonderful threads on DIY plant stand plans. Here’s a link to a discussion of making plant stands from PVC pipe. If you need to keep pets or children away from dangling wires and delicate seedlings, try enclosing your shelves with screen panels.
My light shelves are set up using Gorilla RackTM units that have metal uprights with holes for adjustable supports for 48x18 inch shelves. It turns out that I can put a quarter inch wooden dowel through those holes and use the dowels to support my shop lights. To change the height of the lights, I just move the dowels to a different set of holes.
Your seedlings need at least 12 hours of light each day. Some people have good results running lights 24/7 for their seedlings. I usually run my lights for 16 hours on, 8 hours off. Putting your lights on a timer definitely simplifies things. Be sure to use a heavy duty timer that will take a 3 pronged plug. Using that third prong to ground the lights is important for electrical safety, so please don’t take shortcuts. Similarly, any extension cords you use should be heavy duty ones with 3 prong (grounded) connections. If you can connect it to a GFI outlet, so much the better. If you have any concerns, consult a licensed electrician.
By May, I usually have 20 to 24 flats of plants under lights in the basement. That may be more space than you care to devote to seed starting, but anybody can find space to start a flat or two of plants. I’ve heard of people putting flats on top of cabinets, raising them close to fluorescent office lights by stacking bricks under them. I recall one creative DGer who put a shop light across the rungs of two kitchen chairs and set a flat of plants underneath the chairs, on the floor. My first light shelf was set up in our utility room, over the washer and dryer. Putting together shelves and hanging lights isn’t as exciting as playing in the dirt. But you’ll be so glad to have your seed starting space all set up and ready to go when it’s time to sow seeds.
Clear a space for a seed starting nook or a corner shelf, or make room for an entire bank of seed starting shelves. Rig adjustable fluorescent lights above each shelf, and put them on a timer. If you can, make space for one or two extra flats of plants. Once you start sowing and transplanting, your space will fill up faster than you’d believe!
In the next Seed Starting article, I'll discuss heat mats – what they are, why they are useful, and some DIY alternatives to those sold in nursery catalogs.
About Jill M. Nicolaus
Better known as "Critter" on DG, Jill gardens in Frederick, MD. This week, I've been cutting lavender, putting up pluots (plum-apricot fruits), and pulling weeds (always, LOL). I love being outside in the cooler morning -- coffee cup in one hand, watering hose in the other -- watching the birds and butterflies among the flowers.(Images in my articles are from my photos, unless otherwise credited.)
Posted by Flower_Luver (from Ontario
(Canada)) on April 5, 2008 at 8:11 PM:
Hi everyone...do you germinate seeds in the dark? I thought it was best to put the planted seeds in light immediately? I never heard of germinating in the dark...this was suggested on the back of some seed starting mix.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
THanks!
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 5, 2008 at 10:51 PM:
Some seeds (pansies come to mind) germinate better in the dark, yes. You can do this simply by putting a piece of cardboard over the seed flat... be sure to check it regularly so you can get them in the light at the first sign of germination!
Some seeds need light to germinate, but at Tom DeBaggio says, that doesn't mean they need to get a tan (his turns of phrase stick with me!)... generally enough light for the purpose will penetrate a very light covering of potting soil. I sow most tiny seeds by just pressing them into the surface of moist potting mix.
Hope that helps!
...
Posted by Flower_Luver (from Ontario
(Canada)) on April 6, 2008 at 12:35 AM:
Thanks Critterologist, I have a ton of different veggies seeds, flower seeds and herbs which I just planted today, so I guess a little light won't hurt them. (No pansies). I was fortunate to purchase an excellent light stand at a reasonable price so I'm anxious to start using it. In the past I have always placed my trays in a west window with no problems...some of course germinate faster than others.. thanks again for your input.
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 6, 2008 at 1:40 AM:
I was (pleasantly) surprised to see how much difference it made when I switched from windowsill light to fluorescent lights for seed starting... I hope you have great results this year!
...
Subject: HI have a question on lights
Posted by taynors (from back in St Paris, OH) on March 2, 2008 at 5:28 PM:
Hey Critter
wow good article i always am learning something new.
I have old 2yr old lights im wondering if i can still use them for seed starting. ?
also Tamara and i were trying to figure out what kind of lights ? and what wattage 20 or 30 or does it matter.? I m trying to get 3 ' lights to fit some new shelves i got, also is it warm,daylight or cool . You said cool was ok ? is this correct. Thanks
I sure do miss our canning threads. I m looking forward to canning and getting the Joy of Pickling book. So we can do some more canning fun. I miss our stupid canning accidents , that was fun. :)
thanks
sue
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on March 2, 2008 at 7:07 PM:
After about 15 months, the florescent lights on my aquarium get noticeably dimmer... I replace the florescent tubes on my violet shelves every year or so, but I figure I'm only using my seedling lights for 3-4 months, so they should be good for 3 or 4 years.
I don't know if your 3 year old tubes have been in use for 3 years straight, 12 hours a day (in which case they're probably too dim) or if they're from fixtures that only get occasional use (probably fine). I have noticed that as fluorescent tubes age, they get darker on the ends (even when the light is turned off, the tube looks dark at the ends).
As I've been adding new lights, I've been putting 1 new tube and 1 two year old tube in each fixture... That way, I can put in half new light tubes every other year and keep the light output fairly even.
It's a good idea to write the date on the end of a new tube so you don't have to guess how old it is.
As for wattage, Tom DeBaggio taught me that you need 80 watts (two 4 ft. T-12 tubes) of cool fluorescent light or the equivalent for two standard 1020 flats of seedlings. It depends on the lights you use... T-8 bulbs may even be a little brighter, and a 4 ft. T-8 tube is only 32 watts. 30 inch tubes aren't going to give off as much light as 4 ft. tubes... so instead of four 4 ft. tubes for a 48 inch shelf that holds 4 flats, you might need five 30" tubes for a shelf that holds 3 flats.
...
Posted by taynors (from back in St Paris, OH) on March 2, 2008 at 8:01 PM:
Thanks Critter
Ok so i have those 48 " lights but my shelves are only 3' lol i can get some 2x4 to extend my shelves ?
The ones i was looking at at HD are the single fixtures and i was going to use two of them. (3 ' ) on each shelf ?
so it would be only 60 .
I guess i can extend my shelves to get the 4 ft lights . LOL :)
Thanks alot for the help. :)
...
Posted by taynors (from back in St Paris, OH) on March 2, 2008 at 8:16 PM:
well this isn't on lights but can i ask what you do for seed starting mix ? i only find the small Jiffy ones in the store. I know you can make your own, i googled it. But am warry of doing that. i have limited space.
Can i ask for more guidance please ? :) ( begging with hands praying with sad little face ) LOL
i have alot of seeds to do and i would have to get alot of them little bags.
thanks Critter
sue
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on March 3, 2008 at 12:51 AM:
I get big bales of Pro Mix at my local nursery... our Home Depot sometimes carries it, but more often they just have the Miracle Gro Mix, which seems to work OK if you pick out any really big bits of bark when you're filling seed starting trays. I think any good quality soil-less potting mix (not "garden soil") works well for starting seeds. You can lighten the mix if you like by adding extra perlite, and then you've probably got something more like commercial "seed starting" mix. Since I don't trust any mix to be sterile out of the bag, I sterilize my mix for seed starting trays... check out my article on "The Dreaded Damping Off (and How to Prevent It)" for more about that.
(There's a link to the rest of my articles at the bottom of the above article.)
HTH!
...
Posted by taynors (from back in St Paris, OH) on March 3, 2008 at 5:57 PM:
Thanks Critter
Yes i have been looking and reading the articles . I didn't really think to look at the dampning off one , ha makes sense . Thanks again.
Thanks again
sue
...
Subject: Starting columbine seeds
Posted by xshoshin (from Irvine, CA) on March 1, 2008 at 8:51 PM:
I have Lime Sorbet Columbine seeds that I would like to start indoors so I have a plant (seedling?) to give my mom in mid April. Possible? She will plant it outdoors so I just need to get a few seeds a good head start. Appreciate any advice.
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on March 1, 2008 at 9:32 PM:
Columbines generally like a cool start and may need cold stratification to germinate. I've actually never tried starting them inside under lights... but I've winter sown them successfully several times. That won't give you a garden-ready plant by April, but depending on how slow germination is inside, you may be just as well off winter sowing seeds in a container and giving your mom the container at whatever stage it's in at that time.
See my Feb. 2 article on Winter Sowing for more information...
...
Subject: Planting Out Probs
Posted by Jax4ever (from Boxford, MA) on January 17, 2008 at 10:14 PM:
Great article! Thanks! BUT...
I have always had great success with growing seedlings indoors under shop lights in my basement. The big problem is that they always die when planted out! They just keel over- I'm not sure if it's "damping off" or what, but I am too discouraged by this to ever try starting seeds indoors again. I have read the elaborate measures needed to "harden off" seedlings by exposing them gradually to the outdoors, but if you have more than 4 flats, it is very difficult.
I hope you will share with us the secrets of getting these little guys growing outdoors!!!
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 17, 2008 at 11:37 PM:
I do have an article planned on "hardening off." You're right... it's hard to move 20 flats of seedlings in and out and all about! But you can shelter them with row cover, or in one of those little plastic-covered zip-front "greenhouse" shelf units and gradually remove the protection until they're hardened off.
Try again! Even if you grow just a few flats of seedlings that you know you can harden off successfully, that'll let you grow out some varieties that you can't readily find in local nurseries.
...
Posted by Jax4ever (from Boxford, MA) on January 18, 2008 at 2:20 AM:
When I put my seedlings into one of those little greenhouses, they fried!!! SO, I unzipped the cover for ventilation the next year, and it blew off. So, I bought a replacement cover. Before I got that years' seeds in it, the cover blew off again and is in the next state. I am SUPREMELY discouraged. Too bad gardening horror stories don't play well as stand-up comedy material... I'd have my own show!
I actually have had lots more luck in winter sowing 'en situ' (sp?)- that is, simply tossing the seed of hardy perennials/biennials where I want them to grow. Works like magic for foxgloves, hosta, certain poppies and most wildflowers. BUT, I DO want lots of the more exotic annuals that are out there! Especially when you consider the prices of the mail-order plants (that will probably die after shipping!)
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 18, 2008 at 8:40 AM:
Row cover (or an old sheet) is good for shading those little greenhouses, too... and unzipping during the day can be crucial.
We've got a whole forum about winter sowing (in containers as well as direct sowing), if you want an alternative. I do that in addition to starting seeds inside. I usually get that underway in February, and I've got a how-to article scheduled for Groundhog's Day. :-)
I'd suggest trying again, but with just a few flats, so you'll know you'll be successful with hardening off, even if you have to move the flats around each day for a week while they get accustomed to outside conditions.
...
Subject: Thanks Critter!
Posted by Seandor (from Springfield, MA) on January 17, 2008 at 7:40 PM:
My DH set up shelves and lights as my Christmas present. This article will confirm to him that I wasn't totally mad after all lol
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 17, 2008 at 8:00 PM:
Not totally insane? I could've told him that! LOL Glad it was useful even if you're already good to go!
...
Posted by Sis_E (from San Jose, CA) on January 21, 2008 at 1:08 PM:
This year will be my very first try and starting seeds indoor. I can't wait.......although, I truly feel I don't what I am doing! LOL. I have the light fixture, I have seeds and flats. The light fixture is movable (up and down on a chain). I also have a heat mat....am I prepared or what??? :)
Thanks for great information! I am armed and ready to jump in. Wish me luck :D
~Cissy
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 21, 2008 at 1:28 PM:
You are prepared! You're going to have a blast. It's so exciting to see those first sprouts unfurl their leaves... BTW, don't be dismayed if the first leaves don't look "right." Those are cotyledons, aka "nurse leaves." Tomato seedlings, for example, don't look or smell like tomato plants until they get a few more leaves. :-)
...
Subject: Wonderful!
Posted by gloriag (from Floyd, VA) on January 17, 2008 at 5:33 PM:
Critter, Your message is so great! I have been starting seeds under lights since 1974. The first year was an absolute success. I like that you put alternatives to formal light stands. With imagination almost anyone can find a spot to put a small flourescent light with seed containers under it.
To save room, I often start out with a 8 oz styrafoam cup with seeds planted in potting mix. Initially, I cover the cups with a fold-down type sandwich bag and a rubber band. I write the name of the plants on the cup with a ball point pen. It's not long before they need transplanting. People would be surprised at how many seedlings can get their first and second leaves in one cup. It's always more than I end up using. You are right! It is sooo much fun!
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 17, 2008 at 5:51 PM:
I use smaller containers and trays for sowing seeds also. But I think you're more disciplined than I... I have a hard time tossing out those "extra" seedings, and I try to make room for them somewhere on my light shelves! Initially, I am very popular at spring plant swaps, but by the end of the swap I think people start ducking me as I try to unload my last box of extra seedlings... LOL!
For anybody trying the styrofoam cups, don't forget to poke a couple of holes in the bottom for drainage. :-)
...
Subject: Great article!
Posted by wind (from Mount Laurel, NJ) on January 17, 2008 at 7:47 AM:
Hi Critter,
What perfect timing to read your write up as I contemplate just how to rig up some lights for seedlings this year! I wasn't sure about what kind of light bulbs to use. I'm printing out your article for reference. This will be the first time I'm going to try setting up shelves and lights. It is much more affordable to do it the way you describe. I've been pricing lighting units and they can range to over $400.00!
I usually grow my seedlings in front of sunny windows, but it always it seems that just when they start poking up out of the soil CLOUD COVER for days happens!!! They usually do survive but get leggy :)
Can't wait to try it. I look forward to reading your info on heat mats. I have one question regarding damping-off...do you recommend to have a fan nearby? I've never done that before.
Thank you for such a good informative article!
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 17, 2008 at 10:27 AM:
Thanks!
Air circulation does help prevent damping-off, so a fan blowing on your seedlings can be good. I've got an upcoming article on preventing damping-off, also... no firm date on it since we're juggling the publishing schedule at the moment, but it should appear by or before mid-Feb. The heat mat article is on the schedule for next Thursday.
You're going to be amazed by the difference the extra light will make to your seedlings this year!
...
Posted by dryad57 (from Indianapolis, IN) on January 17, 2008 at 10:43 AM:
Thanks Critter! I was unsure of the type of lights - and this cleared it up quickly! Am off to look at the shelving I have to see if I can use the Critter Dowel Support Method!!
...
Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 17, 2008 at 10:46 AM:
The dowels work really well for me, but one word of warning. Take your plants off the shelf when you adjust the height of the lights. It's really tempting to think you can hang onto the lights and adjust the dowels at one end and then the other... but trust me, when you flatten a flat of baby tomato seedlings, you'll wish you'd taken the extra 2 minutes to move them out of the way.
...
Posted by pirl (from Southold, NY) on January 17, 2008 at 11:13 AM:
All very good information, Critter. Too many people just won't put the lights close enough to the seedlings and then complain they get leggy plants! A duh moment.
We grow more than a thousand plants a year downstairs, under lights. It's not only a cost savings but it's fun to watch a tomato seed go from first being planted to reaping the rewards in August.
The heating mats is another thing people resist buying. What a big difference they make! I'm so glad you mentioned it.
Thanks, critter!
...
Posted by randbponder (from Hornick, IA) on January 17, 2008 at 11:22 AM:
Great article Critter. I saw your plant stand before, in one of the forums. Just wanted to say great advice for someone just beginning to start their own seeds. My plant stand I can't use dowels, but can hang the lights from the shelf above. I'm using two shop lights per shelf ( 4 bulbs). That way I can set the flats 180degrees from the norm, and get an extra flat per shelf. I got a little carried away last season. and had more tomato plants than I could possibly use. This year it will be a little closer to what I will have room to plant. LOL
Russ
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Posted by Riverland (from Northeast, LA) on January 17, 2008 at 11:51 AM:
I really liked you article Jill. Very informative but easy to apply in your own situation. WE have flourecent lights in our home that were T12. Last week we changed them all out to T8s. It was amazing how much more like output.
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Posted by ceeadsalaskazone3 (from Seward, AK) on January 17, 2008 at 12:18 PM:
Like RandBPonder, I use two fixtures per shelf for the extra light, it does make quite the difference. Now I need to get the T8's.
Very timely and informative article. Makes me itchy with the flats, 6 packs & seedling mix. I made my two clunky shelf sets out of plywood with casters on the four legs, but turned one into a bookshelf later. 4 flats per shelf w/3 shelves= a dozen flats
Carol
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Posted by Indy (from Alexandria, IN) on January 17, 2008 at 3:18 PM:
Thanks for the nice article critter.
I set my flats on the floor on an aluminum plate. I made a double fixture of lights and can put 5 flats at a time under the lights. I am retired and have had the luxury [and a bit of exercise] of taking the flats outdoors most days. This outdoors business develops sturdy and hardened in plants.
I probably have about 18 flats near transplant time on the picnic table....I thin out the plastic pots to give them more room as they get larger. I use mostly individual pots...just a few plug like starts.
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Posted by adinamiti (from Bucuresti
(Romania)) on January 17, 2008 at 4:35 PM:
Jill, what a great article and seasonal too! I have to do that for my seedlings too!
...
Subject: Great information!
Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on January 17, 2008 at 7:35 AM:
Thanks so much for the wonderful article. I'm going to make some changes to my current plans. Think we can use your advice and make things easier to set up. Thanks again.
...
Posted by Islandshari (from Kwajalein
(Marshall Islands)) on January 17, 2008 at 4:08 PM:
Great information, and so clearly presented! Jill, you are a novice's dream of info!!
Yokwe,
Shari
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Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on January 17, 2008 at 4:54 PM:
good stuff :)
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Posted by Hyblaean (from Niles, IL) on January 17, 2008 at 8:01 PM:
Great article Critter- have to print out this one!
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Posted by darlindeb (from Claremore, OK) on January 17, 2008 at 8:30 PM:
Bravo! Loved the photos, loved the links, loved the info.
I'm in the process of looking at seeds I want to start indoors. I could use another article on suggestions of things to plant, how and when to plant. Common boo-boos and pitfalls to avoid when raising seeds indoors.
I got some lights at a garage sale. I spend a lot of money on impatients and pansies I wonder if they do well from seed. Also, how fast does it take them to get up and blooming.
Fan Club Member for Jill
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 17, 2008 at 8:56 PM:
Impatiens need a good long running start (12 weeks or more) under the lights if you want them to be budding or blooming when you set them out... I sow mine in early to mid February and give them a warm start, 78'F on the heat mat. I transplant them to cell packs (I like the deep 2 inch ones that come 32 or 26 to a flat) when they have 2 or 4 true leaves. At that point, they move off the heat mat and are fine at 65'F or so.
I'm not the one to ask about pansies. I know a lot of folks grow them very successfully from seed, but somehow I haven't managed to quite figure them out. You might search for info (or ask) over in the propagation forum.
I like to start flats of some of my favorites from seed... It's wonderful to have loads of Alyssum, Lobelia, Torenia (also needs a 12 week start), Impatiens, small-leafed basils, etc. to use in borders and container. I know I'd never be willing to pay for flats of annuals, and I'd "make do" with one or two cell packs instead. By starting my own from seed, I'm only limited by how many lights I can put up!
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Posted by Sharran (from Calvert City, KY) on January 17, 2008 at 11:12 PM:
Nice article, Critter. Thanks.
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Posted by darlindeb (from Claremore, OK) on January 18, 2008 at 10:54 PM:
Thanks Jill. Is there a special potting soil you use for starting your seeds?
Is it true that if you run your hands over small seedlings it makes them stronger? The idea is that running your hands over them is suppose to be like exposing them to wind.
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 18, 2008 at 11:57 PM:
You're welcome, Deb. I like Pro Mix, but any good quality soil-less mix will work.
Yes, that's true, although I'm not sure how frequently you have to do it to see an effect. I've heard an oscillating fan can be similarly helpful. There's a fancy name for this, which escapes me at this hour. I remember reading that it was first observed that plants at the ends of rows in a greenhouse (by the walkway) were growing faster/taller/sturdier than other plants in the row. At first, it was thought that these plants were receiving extra attention, more water, more care in looking out for pests, etc. They finally determined that the cause was simply people brushing against the seedlings as they walked through the greenhouse to tend to the plants.
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Posted by darlindeb (from Claremore, OK) on January 19, 2008 at 5:49 PM:
Thanks Jill a.k.a critterologist. Maybe that will be my science experiment this season.
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 19, 2008 at 6:25 PM:
Oh, a classroom experiment? That would be cool! You could have 2 experimental groups -- seedlings that were touched/brushed regularly & seedlings exposed to an oscillating fan -- and a control group protected from air currents or excessive handling. You could do both subjective gradings of "health" (on a scale from 1 to 10, how good do these seedlings look this week?) and objective measurements of height and stem diameter. I'll bet you'd get some neat results...
Sorry, I know I've gone way off the topic of light shelves... but science experiments get me all excited! LOL
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Posted by darlindeb (from Claremore, OK) on January 19, 2008 at 10:07 PM:
Jill are you my long lost twin? LOL
I was wondering how I could get someone to help me grow plants while I'm on vacation with out paying them to come to my house and water. Thank you for the nice light bulb moment Jill. Aaaaaaaaah, looks like one of my teacher friends could do a classroom experiment that I help her set-up.
If I pull this off, I'll d-mail you the results with photos.
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 19, 2008 at 10:20 PM:
ROFL! Yes, a really comprehensive experiment would have to include several types of plants... say, basil, tomatoes, and your favorite flowering annual (better pick a sturdy one).
