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Amaryllis 101: Caring for Amaryllis Plants and Making Your Amaryllis Bloom Again Next Year

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By Jill M. Nicolaus (critterologist)
January 8, 2008
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When its brilliant holiday blooms have faded, should you toss that big brown amaryllis bulb into the compost pile? No! Amaryllis, botanically known as Hippeastrum, are as easy to care for as any house plant. When they're not blooming, the strap-like leaves make an attractive, architectural backdrop for other plants. With a little fertilizer and summer sun, your amaryllis will bloom again, bigger and better than ever!

Gardening picture Each year, I purchase several new amaryllis bulbs. Growing them on from year to year is far more rewarding to me than composting them each January and buying them anew the following November or December. I'm especially happy to have a more expensive, rare variety or a particular favorite do well and bloom again for me the following year.

After the bloom has faded, the flower stalk can be cut off near the top of the bulb. Be careful of the leaves as you make the cut, and don't worry about the juicy sap that may run out of the cut stalk.

Treat your amaryllis as you would any houseplant, with regular water and fertilizer. Amaryllis plants like sun, the brighter the better, especially in winter. If you tuck it in a dim corner, it may survive, but more sun means better growth and better bloom next year.
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When late spring temperatures are above 50oF at night, you can move your amaryllis outside. Many people simply move pot and all into a sunny spot. That works as long as you remember that it likes to be watered regularly.

I find it's easier to take care of my amaryllis plants if I plant them out into the garden. They get plenty of sun in the bed by my deck. To simplify watering, I run a soaker hose between the bulbs. If you plant them in the ground, follow the same guidelines as for planting in pots, leaving the upper 1/3 of the bulb exposed above the soil line.

The more water, sun and food your amaryllis plants get during the spring and summer, the more leaves they will grow. The more leaves they grow, the more photosynthesis occurs to feed the bulb, and the larger the bulb will grow. The larger the bulb grows, the more flower stalks it will put up the next time it blooms. I've heard that for every 3 to 5 leaves an amaryllis plant grows, the bulb will put up one additional flower stalk the following year.
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Amaryllis plants are tender and must be lifted in fall, before a hard freeze kills the bulb. How early you lift them depends on whether you are trying to time their bloom. For holiday flowers, you'll be digging bulbs in mid-August. I often pot up new bulbs in time for holiday blooms and enjoy my older amaryllises later in the winter, simply because I don't think of lifting them at the height of summer.

Here's a way to calculate the dates involved. Mark the approximate “bloom by” date you want on the calendar, remembering that you might have to be flexible. Count back the approximately eight weeks it will take for a potted bulb to start blooming, and mark the date you should pot up the bulb. Count back an additional eight weeks of dormant resting time, and mark a date to dig the bulb (or remove it from its pot).
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When you dig up the bulb, brush or wash most of the dirt off the roots, and let them dry. Cut the foliage off about an inch above the top of the bulb. Put the bulb in a cool, dark place with good air circulation until it's time to pot it up. Often, the bulb will start sprouting the tip of a flower stalk to tell you it's ready to go. For potting up the bulb, follow the directions in Amaryllis 101: Planting Amarllis Bulbs for Winter Bloom.

If you're content to let your plant bloom when it will, there's no need to put the amaryllis bulb through an official dormant period. You can let the foliage remain on the bulb when you dig it up, or you can simply bring a potted plant back inside in fall. By doing so, you may encourage your amaryllis to bloom more than once each year!
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Some of my older bulbs have produced offsets, which can be potted up separately or grown on with the mother bulb until they reach blooming size. I've also grown a few amaryllis plants from seed – an exercise in patience, as they can take 3 to 5 years to bloom for the first time. Over the years, my collection of amaryllises has gradually increased. This year, I dug 28 bulbs out of my “tropicals” bed by the deck!

I don't make any particular effort to put mine through a dormant period. I find that some of the leaves get damaged or lost, while the foliage on other plants stays healthy and full. So some of the amaryllis bulbs that I pot up end up going dormant to some extent, and others don't. Sometimes I pot them up right away, other times the bulbs may sit around for several weeks after I dig them up.
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All the potted bulbs go on a sunny shelf in my basement. Every so often, a couple of them will start putting up bloom stalks, and I'll bring them upstairs to enjoy their flowers. With so many amaryllis bulbs doing their thing at different times, I know I'll have spectacular blooms to enjoy all winter long.

For additional information, see the National Arboretum's directions for How to Make Your Amaryllis Bloom Again. Dave's Garden has an entire discussion forum devoted to Amaryllis and Hippeastrums, and you'll find photos and posts there from beginners and experts alike.

Photos by Jill M. Nicolaus. Cultivars: 'Pink Impression', 'Blossom Peacock', 'Supreme'


  About Jill M. Nicolaus  
Jill M. NicolausBetter known as "Critter" on DG, Jill gardens in Frederick, MD. This week, I've been cutting lavender, putting up pluots (plum-apricot fruits), and pulling weeds (always, LOL). I love being outside in the cooler morning -- coffee cup in one hand, watering hose in the other -- watching the birds and butterflies among the flowers.(Images in my articles are from my photos, unless otherwise credited.)

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Subject: amaryllis vandal!!


Posted by lnorris (from Gallion, AL) on May 12, 2008 at 11:59 PM:

A friend and I have plants numerous amaryllis out side this spring. A beautiful red bloom appeared around May 4th or 5th. She was thrilled and walked to the front of her house 3 or 4 times each day to enjoy it. On the morning of May 10th during her 1st am visit she found the stalked chewed halfway up and the stalk and beautiful red bloom missing. I have no idea what it could be except an armodilla which are abundant in our area but I thought they dug up bulbs which I thought would happen at my house as the animals are very happy at my place but I'm not missing any bulbs yet!
We live in western Alabama the days have been warm and nice the nice cool 50 to high 60's this May. Any idea about what could have helped themselves to the amaryllis?

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on May 13, 2008 at 12:05 AM:

No clue, sorry... sounds like the varmint only got the flower stalk, though, so that's something!

Here, I'd be guessing bunny or groundhog, probably groundhog. I guess armadillos are your local equivalent.

Hmm, the stalk wasn't "chewed" as if some 2-legged varmint had inexpertly helped themselves to the bloom, was it?

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Subject: won't bloom outdoors?!

Posted by sheersheri (from Birmingham, AL) on February 22, 2008 at 10:55 AM:

Dear Jill,
I love the article - even though I'm a latecomer to this discussion!
I'm in Birmingham AL, zone 7b. I have had a few amaryllis outdoors for 2 years in the ground and every year so far they only put out leaves. How can I make them bloom in the spring? They seem to withstand the heat even though I didn't realize they shouldn't be in full sun. Last winter was crazy with a freeze in March, but this winter we are having good cold weather at approrpriate times.

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.

sheri

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on February 22, 2008 at 12:46 PM:

I'm sorry, but since I have to overwinter my amaryllis indoors, I have no advice on how to grow them outside year-round. DG does have an active Amaryllis discussion forum... I'd encourage you to subscribe so you can take advantage of that forum and the many others available. If that's not an option right now... let's see... I just checked the list of forums, and the Tropical Gardening forum is open to both members and subscribers. I'll bet somebody there might be able to answer your question about amaryllis. [HYPERLINK@davesgarden.com]

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Posted by sheersheri (from Birmingham, AL) on March 6, 2008 at 12:09 AM:

Thanks Critterologist.

I'll definitely check the forums for amaryllis and subscribe as well.
sheersheri

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on March 6, 2008 at 1:46 AM:

:-)

I've had more fun and learned more from my DG subscription than I'd have gained from any 10 gardening magazine subscriptions... You're going to love the additional resources and discussion forums that subscribing opens up for you!

I also really like that Dave offers $5 trial subscriptions. That's a great way to check things out for a couple of months and see what you think...

I'll look forward to seeing you around the forums!

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Posted by Gardening_Lady (from Lanexa, VA) on May 13, 2008 at 10:23 PM:

I'm in Virginia, zone 7a, and once the babies are old enough, they usually start to bloom without problem. Some seem to take longer to mature than others, but it may be related to location. Sun is preferable, but apparently not an absolute essential. They are heavy feeders, and my son (in SC) had some that weren't blooming until they started getting more fertilizer, so that may be the key. I fertilize in early spring when they've all come up and again after blooming. I just (this evening, actually) read something online from someone at Clemson who said they should also be fed when stalk is a few inches high. I need to do some more research on this. I'm a big fan of the Espoma "Tone" fertilizers, and use Holly-Tone (for acid-loving plants) on my amaryllis.

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on May 13, 2008 at 11:53 PM:

Thanks for the tip on the fertilizer! :-)

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Subject: amaryllis

Posted by fergie50 (from Butte Des Morts, WI) on February 12, 2008 at 9:50 AM:

I'e got a beautiful bulb this year but - It only got two big stalks full of flowers -- absolutely no leaves. I suppose I should just start fertilizing it and keeping it for next year. I should get leaves right? I pulled my bulbs in the beginning of Sept. from outside and let them in a brown bag for 2 months and then planted and put it my window. I live in central Wisconsin and I think the days got to short and to cool in my sunroom. Finally - now they are starting to bloom. A bit late. Do you think I should pull them earlier or not let them dormant for so long or put them under close lights to get them going? I would like blooms around Christmas. Thanks for any advise for next year. I have about 9 great bulbs.

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on February 12, 2008 at 11:41 AM:

I think heat might get them going a bit faster, and you might change the timing next year -- pull them sooner, maybe keep them dormant for a shorter time (or not at all -- just pot them up and let them bloom when they want). With 9 bulbs, you could try a couple of different things and probably get blooms over a nice long period.

I think you'll start seeing leaves soon. For now, continue keeping the soil moist but not overly wet... if the bulb isn't actively growing, it won't be taking up much water, and you don't want it to be soggy. I wouldn't start fertilizing until leaves appear, although it probably won't hurt, especially if you dilute your fertilizer to half or quarter strength.

I was really late in getting some of my bulbs potted up this year, but I'm enjoying their watching them put up buds and blooms now!

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Subject: fertilizer

Posted by happy_macomb (from Chevy Chase, MD) on January 18, 2008 at 3:33 PM:

Oh Critter, you font of wisdom: I am growing (for the first time) amaryllises that I over-summered. Should I be fertilizing them now, or should I wait until the blooms end and they are outdoors in the sun.

(Great articles, by the way!!!)

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 18, 2008 at 5:09 PM:

As soon as they have foliage, they'd probably appreciate fertilizer. There's no need to wait until they're outside for the summer. Fertilize them while you continue growing them inside; treat them like a houseplant. I add time-release fertilizer to my potting mix, and when I water sometimes I also add water-soluble fertilizer at about 1/4 strength.

I'm glad you're having fun with your amaryllis bulbs!

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Posted by happy_macomb (from Chevy Chase, MD) on January 18, 2008 at 6:27 PM:

But should I fertilize them before they bud up? Or while they are flowering?

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 18, 2008 at 6:34 PM:

I'd wait until they're done flowering and have started putting up leaves. As I understand it, the flowers and the energy to put them up are already present in the bulb. I don't think it'll help to add fertilizer until leaves are present to make more food that can be stored in the bulb.

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Posted by happy_macomb (from Chevy Chase, MD) on January 18, 2008 at 6:35 PM:

Ok, thanks!!!

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Subject: in ground

Posted by LouC (from Desoto, TX) on January 8, 2008 at 2:54 PM:

Thank you for more information on one of my favorites. My 95 year old aunt passed away some 5 years ago. She had literally over a hundred bulbs growing in her yard. We dug as many as we could without falling over and brought them home to go into the ground again.
Have also planted out any that were forced around Christmas. Because we do have freezes but not ground freeze, I don't dig them. They are gorgeous in the spring. Have continued to multiply and I am looking forward to another wondrous show this year.

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Posted by Kelli (from Los Angeles (Canoga , CA) on January 8, 2008 at 6:54 PM:

Like Lou, we can leave them in the ground all year here. I have some that came with the house that I am told have been here for 40 years. Actually, one bulb came with the house. It was a feeble little neglected thing about the size of a walnut that I found when pulling out overgrown junk. I didn't even know what it was - though I did know what amaryllis were - except that it was probably some kind of flower. I moved it to where it wouldn't get crowded out and didn't pay any particular attention to it except that it probably gets rose food since it is near a rose bush. In a few years it bloomed and now I have a nice little clump of bulbs.

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 8, 2008 at 7:11 PM:

You two are giving me a major case of zone envy, although the unseasonal 70 degree weather we had today definitely helps!

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Posted by Kelli (from Los Angeles (Canoga , CA) on January 8, 2008 at 7:16 PM:

That's warmer than here today. Does that help?

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 8, 2008 at 7:17 PM:

Why yes, it does! :-)

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Posted by Kelli (from Los Angeles (Canoga , CA) on January 8, 2008 at 7:20 PM:

:-)

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Posted by LouC (from Desoto, TX) on January 8, 2008 at 8:49 PM:

From what I have learned on DG, the problem of the ground freezing is what sets most of us apart. I do mulch but still don't have to worry about ground freeze. Just asking, does heavy mulching hold off on the ground freeze?

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Posted by Seandor (from Springfield, MA) on January 8, 2008 at 9:23 PM:

Great article, critter Now I don't feel so bad that I didn't let my amaryllis go dormant earlier. Gee, maybe I should bring it upstairs now. :-)

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Subject: Interesting artical

Posted by terriculture (from london
(United Kingdom)) on January 7, 2008 at 7:31 PM:

Lovely pictures and a very interesting artical. Thanks for the information, I recieved one of these plants for Christmas, now I know what to do with it!

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Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on January 8, 2008 at 5:57 AM:

Loved the 2nd part too. I think I can make this work thanks to all your great information. I happened to hit the after Xmas sales and got a bunch of amaryllis on sale. I gave some away as Xmas gifts, so I'm forwarding your instructions on care to those ladies. Hopefully they can get more than one season's enjoyment from the bulbs. I've got 4 growing right now. The Veda has bloomed, it's lovely, not real tall stem, but I'm delighted to see the flower.

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Posted by adinamiti (from Bucuresti
(Romania)) on January 8, 2008 at 6:11 AM:

Jill, what a wonderful article, congratulations ! So interesting about the eight weeks before blooming! I have 2 amaryllis and I'm going to do more of them when I'll move in the new house and they'll have more room .
Adina

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 8, 2008 at 10:42 AM:

Thanks! I will warn you that these beauties can be addictive... but those huge blooms are such fun, especially in the middle of winter! I'm glad you're encouraged to try more of them.

Doccat, I've had ones that bloomed on really short stems, too. I'm not sure what causes that, exactly, but I've had people tell me that it's not necessarily anything I did... the bloom you get the first year is determined by things that happen before the bulb reaches you. At least there's no danger of those "shorties" toppling over! I had one before Christmas that bloomed on a 3 inch stem, with the blooms hanging over the edge of the pot! Strange looking.

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Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on January 8, 2008 at 10:59 AM:

Well, it's really pretty colors and I'm enjoying a "real" flower in the middle of kitchen table right now! :)

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Posted by AYankeeCat (from Fairfield County, CT) on January 8, 2008 at 11:08 AM:

What perfect timing! I gave amaryllis for Christmas presents and now I can tuck growing instructions in with my thank you cards!

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Posted by Riverland (from Northeast, LA) on January 8, 2008 at 12:20 PM:

Wonderful article Jill. Very helpful. Cindy

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Posted by Indy (from Alexandria, IN) on January 8, 2008 at 2:55 PM:

Very nice article.
I've got some that are several years old and do they multiply!! They are just now starting to bloom.

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Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on January 8, 2008 at 5:31 PM:

There are some - African or South American or maybe Polar ones - that are specially supposed to be shorter so they're not as top-heavy. But not 5" tall! The kind I bought LAST year that I'm trying to get to bloom again THIS year were this new, special, shorter, maybe even a little smaller, I don't know type. Great idea, Cat! And I like them blooming in February and March when it's really bleak around here. There's enough going on at the holidays! xx, Carrie

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Posted by McGlory (from Southeast, NE) on January 8, 2008 at 8:47 PM:

Great article, as usual, Jill. I'm positive that your instructions will work. I'm not positive that I'll remember to follow them. Sigh. Got a stalk coming up on one right now. Thanks for the article and your good timing on it.

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Posted by sallyg (from Anne Arundel Co., MD) on January 8, 2008 at 8:58 PM:

Jill, I was wondering where you were. I realy enjoyed the article and felt it told me everything I need to know.
i have grown them for quite a few years but have only heard to plant them in shade. However, I saw a whole patch of them in full sun at the community garden. Glad you confirmed it is OK.

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 8, 2008 at 9:25 PM:

Actually, I think mine got a little too much shade from my bananas this year... They survived but didn't gain much size. Next year, I'll make sure they go front and center for more sunshine so the bulbs get bigger!

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Posted by gardenwife (from Newark, OH) on January 22, 2008 at 12:49 PM:

Hey, Jill -- someone linked to your article from her blog. :)
[HYPERLINK@plotblog-lilymarlene.blogspot.com]

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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on January 22, 2008 at 12:54 PM:

Cool! I feel like I've "arrived" as a card-carrying member of the information age. :-)

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