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Watering Wisely

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By Paul Rodman (paulgrow)
March 13, 2008

It seems like every time we pick up a newspaper or turn on the news there is some type of story about water shortages. Double digit water bill increases in urban areas or threats of running out of water in the southeast United States. We all need to do our part in conserving water whether we get it from a municipal water source or from our own wells.

Gardening picture


According to the US census bureau the 28 counties that comprise the Atlanta, Georgia metropolitan area has a population of some 5.1 million people. The majority of these people are in real danger of running out of water. Not a water shortage but totally running out of potable water for drinking, bathing etc. The record drought has Lake Lanier the primary source of drinking water for Atlanta and DeKalb County in danger of going dry within a few short months if much needed rain doesn’t arrive.

Here in the metropolitan Detroit, Michigan area double digit water hikes are a fact of life in suburban communities supplied by the Metro Detroit water system.

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courtesy Detroit News, USA Today and Fox News

Those of us who are gardeners have our own unique decisions to make as far as how we use our water, how often and how much. I have some tips on how to use your water wisely, how to conserve it.

We could carry it on our heads like the lady in the thumbnail picture above, but I have some more efficient ways in order to use our water supply efficiently.

Drip Irrigation Systems

I’ve been using one for 5-6 years and absolutely love it. I use a Mr. Landscaper system. This system is easy to install and parts are available at Lowe’s. They have a large variety of emitters so that you can customize the system to fit your garden.

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1/2" poly tubing is used for drip systems Drip Stake assembly

This system can save you up to 90% of the water used by a conventional sprinkler. Each emitter delivers 5 gallons of water per hour right to the root zone of the plants. Using conventional watering techniques loses too much water to run off, over spray, and evaporation; it also saves time by not having to move hoses and sprinklers around your garden.

A drip system consists of a ½” poly tubing trunk line which can be laid on top of the soil, I bury mine under the mulch. Stake assemblies are connected easily to the tubing and misters are screwed into the stake assemblies. Installation is very quick and easy. Mister Landscaper has an emitter that directs the spray downward to the base of the plant and the foliage doesn’t get wet; this is especially helpful when watering plants like roses.
The system can be expanded easily to fit your growing garden

.

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A typical drip system



Soaker Hoses

Soaker hoses can save you 70% of the water used by conventional sprinklers. They are made of 60% recycled rubber from tires so that you are doing your part to help the environment.

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Soaker hoses come in varies lengths and designs

These are placed in the beds around the drip line of your plants and you connect your garden hose to the soaker and water seeps from the soaker into the root zone. I use a quick connect fitting on the soaker and my garden hose to make hook up quick and easy.

I like to use my soaker hoses around shrubs and trees buried underneath the mulch.

I have found from personal experience that these hoses have a life of about 4-5 years before they begin to rot.

Do not exceed 100’ in length with your soaker hose for best performance.

Be sure to use a back flow preventer on your outdoor spigots.

The cost of a 50’ hose is in the $10-$20 range


Mulch

Once you’ve delivered the water to your garden you need to keep it in the soil for as long as possible. The best way to do this is by using mulch.

Mulch comes in organic and inorganic forms. Organic is much preferred as it breaks down and adds organic material to the soil. Organic forms are grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, shredded bark whole bark nuggets, sawdust wood chips, shredded newspaper, etc.

A 2-3 inch layer of mulch will help to keep the soil moist as well as deterring weeds.

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Shredded hardwood mulch
For more information on drip irrigation systems go to www.mrlandscaper.com

Watch for a companion article coming soon on an alternative source to provide water for your lawn and garden.


  About Paul Rodman  
Paul RodmanPaul Rodman has been gardening for over 40 years. He is an Advanced Master Gardener, and American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian. He is currently president of the Western Wayne County Master Gardener Association in Wayne County, Michigan.

Rodman is the garden columnist for The News Herald newspaper, in Southgate, Michigan. He has also written for the OrganicGardening.com web site.

He has lectured on various gardening topics throughout southeastern Michigan.

His favorite pastime is teaching children about gardening. For the past several years he has conducted classes for second grade students teaching them about subjects ranging from vermi-composting to propagation.

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Subject: Soaker Hoses at BOTTOM of Raised Beds???


Posted by connewgarden (from Hanmer near Sudbury, ON) on April 13, 2009 at 08:34 PM:

Do you suppose it would be okay (or good even) to place soaker hoses in the BOTTOM of a raised bed before putting in the soil? I am thinking that it would work something like the self-watering systems in closed containers, with the water being poured in through the end of the hose gradually bent upward at one end (or both, I guess). One could cut up an old hose into pieces of the right length and poke holes into it... Would that provide enough water throughout the bed? Or does the water have to be worked downward by gravity?

Now that I'm thinking about this, I'm wondering if this would be a good idea in a closed container, too. We're about to build a hoop greenhouse on some asphalt in our backyard with raised beds in it, and I think hubby wants to line the floor with plastic too. If we don't used closed containers, that could make quite a mess. Or do you think open bottomed raised beds on asphalt would be okay as long as there's no plastic lining?

I'm "new" at gardening so I wouldn't be surprised is this is a really bad idea. I'd love to hear your comments.

Thanks,

connewgarden

...

Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on April 14, 2009 at 03:27 PM:

I would say that it probably work to well as the water would flow downward.

I would place them close to the surface.

...

Subject: pine needles as mulch or fertilizer

Posted by connewgarden (from Hanmer near Sudbury, ON) on April 13, 2009 at 08:14 PM:

I have a ton of pine needles (and hubby has been piling them up behind the shed). Can I use them for mulch or fertilizer? I know they are acidic, but I wonder if I can use them ANYWHERE. How about if I burn them--would the ash be useful? If it matters, we are in zone 3a.

Thanks,

connewgarden

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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on April 14, 2009 at 03:30 PM:

Pine needles are very acidic, you need to be careful if you have plants that prefer alkaline soil.

They would be fine for acid loving plants.

...

Subject: mulching with rhubarb leaves

Posted by connewgarden (from Hanmer near Sudbury, ON) on April 13, 2009 at 08:09 PM:

I've just read that rhubarb leaves (whole, I'm assuming) make good collars and mulch for tomatoes and cabbage. I like that very much as I have lots of rhubarb. What I'd like to know is if I can use rhubarb leaves for any and all plants, or am I limited to certain plants. If I am limited, which plants can I use rhubarb leaves with and which must I not use rhubarb leaves with?

I have just joined Dave's Garden forum and am enjoying it very much. You all are very knowledgeable--just what I need!

connewgarden

...

Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on April 14, 2009 at 03:31 PM:

I don't see any reason why you can't use them for any plant.

...

Subject: Need parts for Thompson Walking Sprinkle

Posted by artboy (from Canyon Lake, TX) on September 14, 2008 at 09:48 PM:

The mail request to the Chino Ca. address failed in delivery. any other resorces you know of?
210-289-1825

...

Subject: Article

Posted by juja (from Lake City, FL) on March 13, 2008 at 07:21 AM:

Really enjoyed your article, I am a Master Gardener in Columbia County, the Lake City, FL area which is North Central Florida. Water is a precious commodity down here and our area is rich with rivers and springs. Because of the drought conditions we have been experiencing these past couple years, and the water shortages from up north (Georgia) and south (Southern Florida) we are sandwiched in and these two areas are now trying to "tap into" our resources.

Would it be possible to print off your article and for me to use in some of the presentations that I do for the public? I like it because it is brief and to the point, and has alot of good "common sense" information.

I don't know how that works or if I am allowed to or not.

Judy

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Posted by LHicks (from Charlotte, NC) on March 17, 2008 at 01:19 PM:

Last year when we were going into a dry season, I was discussing watering plants with my mother and she suggested catching the water in the shower before it turns hot. A couple of months later, there was an article in the newspaper suggesting the same thing.

After talking to moma, I purchased 2 small buckes and explained what to do to my husband. To my suprise, he was all for it and does it everyday without a reminder. I had enough water to take care of my inside plants and to keep my outside plants from dying where there was no rain. We continue to do this, not just because of the plants but it also helps to keep the water bill down.

...

Posted by juja (from Lake City, FL) on March 17, 2008 at 08:17 PM:

WOW - what a great idea:-)

We are on a well, but here in Florida with the drought and lack of rain, this is a great idea.

Thank you for sharing.

Judy

...

Posted by ilexwhite (from Detroit, MI) on March 18, 2008 at 11:56 AM:

I love heavy mulching (Ruth Stout no-dig method) but have not used drip irrigation. Do drip irigation and heavy mulch work well together? Would you likely need even less water if you go no-till?

...

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